CHAPTER XVICARE OF THE CAR
Many people have an impression that as long as a car runs all right no care should be given to it. It is for this very reason we urge that a careful inspection should be made at regular intervals. The matter of going over the various parts, and examining the operative elements, should be made a habit. Become thoroughly acquainted with the mechanism.
Regular Inspection a Good Habit.—This is as much a duty, as to keep the parts well oiled, or to supply it with water at proper intervals. In the present high state of the art pertaining to the manufacture of automobiles, the different parts are so made as to stand a great deal of wear and hard usage, so that before they show any signs of giving away, they will be worn down to the danger point.
The Brake Shoe.—As an illustration, take the brake shoe. This may work satisfactorily and efficiently for a long time, and you flatter yourselfthat you have a perfect car in this respect. The next day it gives out, and it is sure to be at the most critical moment. This is the history of all breakdowns.
If an examination had been made a day or a week before, it would have shown the worn condition, and permitted repair at that time when there was ample opportunity.
Familiarity with Working Parts.—So with every other part of the car. The fact that it is working well should encourage you to examine the different parts to find the loose or worn elements. It will teach you the weak spots. Familiarity with a car is an important element, and is the most efficient training practice, especially for one who wishes to acquire information and practical knowledge on this subject.
The Engine.—There is nothing so vital as the engine. Several hours given each month, or even an hour or two a week to overhauling it, will amply repay you. The proper way is to do this inspection and overhauling in a systematic way. One day one part can be examined, and the next day another part made the subject of investigation.
Connecting Rods.—A loose bolt in one of the connecting rods, while it may run along for a week or two, and cause no damage, is sure to cause trouble unless arrested. The moment the connectionof a wire begins to loosen, it will never stop until it has severed the connection entirely.
In taking apart an engine every part should be cleaned as it is removed, taking the utmost care of each pin, bolt, or nut. The walls of the cylinders should be examined, the piston rings tested and note whether they are worn.
Valves.—Then the valves need testing separately, and reground if there is the least indication of undue wear on one side more than on the other, or if there is the least carbon coating apparent.
The best preparation for grinding them is a very fine emery, mixed with a heavy lubricant, to which should be added a small amount of kerosene.
Cam-shaft.—When the cam-shaft is removed, note the marks, to see where they register with the marks on the cam shaft gears. Familiarize yourself with these details.
The Clearance.—Particularly examine the clearance between the valve stem and plunger rod. If the clearance is too great, the exhaust valve will open too late. A small clearance is necessary to allow for the expansion of the valve stem.
Clutches.—Some clutches are so arranged that they may be removed as a whole; in others the separate parts may be taken out. If the latter appears worn, replace it at once. Do not wait untilnecessity compels you. Leather for this purpose should always be kept on hand, and the old leathers used as patterns for cutting the new.
The Clutch Leather.—When the leather wears down so the rivet heads are in contact with the metal surface, they should be taken out, and the leather countersunk, so that the new rivets will be deep enough to clear contact. This is something which, at the time you are examining the car, has not yet given any trouble, but the next day, if not attended to, the clutch may refuse to release itself quickly, and you are apt to wonder what the trouble may be.
Rivets in the Leather.—Keep the rivet heads free of metallic contact. This, and care in putting on the leather evenly will make a clutch that is sure to give you efficient service. If it does not grip quickly after the foot releases it, the spring is not at proper tension. On the other hand, the spring should not be too strong, and to push back the foot with too great force, because this will set the clutch, and give the car an unpleasant jerk.
Transmission System.—The transmission system should be examined at frequent intervals. The main thing is to note the ball bearings, and to remove old grease which has accumulated there. All ball bearings, however made, and applied, have more or less of a grinding effect. As a result,small particles of iron are cut off from the contact surfaces, which is indicated by the fact that the grease is discolored, or blackened.
The grease which is allowed to remain in the case for a long time has these small particles in contact with the balls and runways, and is sure to wear more than new grease. Plumbago in the grease will be of great service in aiding to coat the balls with a good surface.
These remarks as to the removal of old grease is desirable wherever ball bearings are employed. The gears in the case should also be examined to ascertain whether the edges are chipped, or what the wearing action is.
The Differential.—This also requires care, but carelessness in lubrication is the only feature lacking in so many cars, and it is the most frequent shortcoming with the novice. The differential seems to be the one part of a car which, in his estimation, requires no attention.
If there is any play between the pinions and the studs, it should be promptly taken up. This can be done, usually, by inserting washers of proper thickness behind the gears, in cases where no provision has been made for adjustment.
Universal Joints.—The wearing points of the universal are in the pins. These are susceptible of a great deal of wearing down before the factswill make themselves known in the operation of the machine, hence the necessity of examining this part when you are on an inspecting tour.
Steering Gear.—The steering gear should be taken apart, and every working portion cleaned. The ball-bearings may be worn, or the joint out of adjustment, to which the stiffness of the turning movement is likely due.
Worm and Worm Wheel.—When wear begins between the worm and worm wheel, there is a looseness apparent, so that the steering wheel must, sometimes make a considerable part of a turn before the effect will be apparent on the wheels. This should be taken up so the wheels will be in full mesh.
The rod from the sector lever to the pedal should be taken off and examined, to see whether or not it is bent, and properly adjusted as to length.
Batteries.—These need inspection and attention more frequently than any other part of the mechanism. It is often the case that a battery, particularly storage batteries, will show strong amperage, and suddenly give out entirely.
The Vibrator.—When such is the case it may be attributable to the contact point of the vibrator having too heavy an adjustment, and as a result, it will be less responsive, or be slow in its action.This causes corrosion of the contact points. In action the vibrator should give a high-pitched buzzing sound, which produces a hotter spark, and also preserves the life of the battery.
The Electrolyte.—The electrolyte in the storage battery may need refilling. The old liquid should be removed, the case thoroughly washed out with distilled water, and refilled, using about three quarters of the old liquid, and the residue soft fresh water.
Replace buckled or injured grids with new ones. If a plate has a considerable portion of the minim, or lead, broken or removed, it is always well to take it out and put in a new one as the grid in such a case has a reduced surface.
Contact Points.—Examine all contact points, and clear the air vents and terminals, and particularly note how the wires are arranged within the case, so they will not be subjected to vibration and thus affect the terminals.
The utmost care should be exercised to line up the valves so they act at the proper time in the revolution of the crank shaft. Usually the inlet valve plunger has a lock-nut adjustment, so that it may be set at the proper point.
The points are indicated on the fly wheel and engine base, and when they coincide with, say cylinder No. 1, which is usually taken as the guide,the contact must be made between the valve-stem and plunger. If you find that the contact takes place before the two points are opposite each other, the valves open too early.
The Magneto.—The only difference between the magneto and the battery system, as applied on cars, is in the method of obtaining the primary current. The magneto dispenses with the battery cells, the coil, the commutator, or contact breaker, which must be used with the battery, and the switching plug.
Instead of the foregoing elements however, the magneto requires a contact breaker, and a condenser. It is, therefore, much more simple to examine and keep in order, than a battery outfit. The magneto, owing to the fact that it always has within itself the means to generate a current, and does not deplete itself, is far preferable to a battery.
Owing to the high tension character of most magnetos, the spark is also much hotter, and for that reason the ignition is more positive.
Magneto Impulses.—As the magneto gives out impulses of certain intensity at each revolution, which impulses are designed to actuate the sparking mechanism at certain definite periods, it is obvious that the contact breaker must be properly set.
Timing the Magneto.—This is what is calledtimingthe magneto, and it is one of the things necessary to observe, and to be able to adjust, if it is found that, for any reason, the disk, or the wheel of the contact breaker has turned on the shaft, as will sometimes be the case.
All mechanism of this kind should be “spotted,” that is, have punch marks on the disk and shaft so that it can always be put back to the proper operative position, or nearly so, and thus save the time and labor required for retiming.
In general, however, it may be said that the magneto is one of the mechanical elements, which needs less care and attention than any other part of the car, and it is safe to examine and go through every other part of the machinery before attempting to tamper with the magneto.
The Carbureter.—In the past carbureters have had a bad reputation, probably, deservedly so. The great difficulty with most of them has been in the floats, and the float connections with the inlets. This, and the fact that small particles, which somehow get into the oil, and block the flow at the needle point, and the presence of water, are the serious troubles.
One can be remedied only by a thorough overhauling, and the other by using special care in filling the tank with fuel. The float chambershould be kept clean, as well as the ducts and valve controlling the flow.
Sometimes a small fiber will be lodged somewhere in the pipes, and this will catch small particles, and temporarily arrest them. The accumulated mass when dislodged blocks the valve, and the mystery seems inexplainable.
Wrong adjustmentin a carbureter manifests itself in three ways: If the smoke is black, and the flame is red, the mixture is too rich; a yellow flame indicates a lean mixture; and a blue flame and clear exhaust shows that it is properly set.
If an explosion takes place in the muffler, it is an indication that gasoline, or the vapor, has been carried over; and white smoke discharging from it shows that there is too much lubricating material going into the cylinders.
Weatherwill affect mixtures, and more air is generally required on a hot day than during damp weather. This explains why a machine will run without trouble with a certain adjustment one day, and be very unsatisfactory the next. These things should be observed and mentally noted.