Chapter 3

Fig. 21.—Knives for uncapping honey.

EXTRACTED HONEY.[1]

[1]For farther discussion of the production and care of extracted honey, see Bulletin 75, Part I, Bureau of Entomology.

Extracted honey is honey which has been removed by means of centrifugal force from the combs in which the bees stored it. While it is possible to adulterate extracted honey by the addition of cheap sirups, this is rarely done, perhaps largely on account of the possibility of detection. It may be said to the credit of bee keepers as a class that they have always opposed adulteration of honey.

In providing combs for the storage of honey to be extracted the usual practice is to add to the top of the brood chamber one or more hive bodies just like the one in which brood is reared, and fill these with frames. If preferred, shallower frames with bodies of proper size may be used, but most honey extractors are made for full-size frames. The surplus bodies should be put on in plenty of time to prevent the crowding of the brood chamber, and also to act as a preventive of swarming.

Honey for extracting should not be removed until it is well ripened and a large percentage of it capped. It is best, however, to remove the crop from each honey flow before another heavy producing plant comes into bloom, so that the different grades of honey may be kept separate. It is better to extract while honey is still coming in, so that the bees will not be apt to rob. The extracting should be done in a building, preferably one provided with wire-cloth at the windows (p. 9).

Fig. 22.—Honey extractor.

The frames containing honey to be extracted are removed from the hive, the cappings cut off with a sharp, warm knife (fig. 21) made specially for this purpose, and the frames are then put into the baskets of the honey extractor (fig. 22) . By revolving these rapidly the honey is thrown out of one side. The basket is then reversed and the honey from the other side is removed. The combs can then be returned to the bees to be refilled, or if the honey flow is over, they can be returned to the bees to be cleaned and then removed and stored until needed again. This method is much to be preferred to mashing the comb and straining out the honey, as was formerly done.

In large apiaries special boxes to receive cappings, capping melters to render the cappings directly into wax, and power-driven extractors are often used. These will be found listed in supply catalogues.

The extracted honey is then strained and run into vessels. It is advisable not to put it in bottles at once, but to let it settle in open vessels for a time, so that it can be skimmed. Most honeys will granulate and become quite hard if exposed to changes of temperature, and to liquefy granulated extracted honey it should be heated in a water bath. Never heat honey directly over a stove or flame, as the flavor is thereby injured. The honey should never be heated higherthan 160° F. unless it is necessary to sterilize it because of contamination by disease.

Extracted honey is put up in bottles or small tin cans for the retail trade, and in 5-gallon square tin cans or barrels for the wholesale market. Great care must be exercised if barrels are used, as honey will absorb moisture from the wood, if any is present, and cause leakage. The tin package is much to be preferred in most cases. In bottling honey for retail trade, it will well repay the bee keeper or bottler to go to considerable expense and trouble to make an attractive package, as the increased price received will more than compensate for the increased labor and expense. Honey should be heated to 160° F. and kept there for a time before bottling, and the bottle should be filled as full as possible and sealed hermetically.

Granulated honey.—Some honeys, such as alfalfa, granulate quickly after being extracted. Such honeys are sometimes allowed to granulate in large cans and the semisolid mass is then cut into 1-pound bricks like a butter print and wrapped in paraffin paper. It may be put into paraffined receptacles before granulation, if desired. There is always a ready market for granulated honey, since many people prefer it to the liquid honey.

COMB HONEY.

Comb honey is honey as stored in the comb by the bees, the size and shape being determined by the small wooden sections provided by the bee keeper. Instead of having comb in large frames in which to store surplus honey, the bees are compelled to build comb in the sections and to store honey there (fig. 2). A full section weighs about 1 pound; larger ones are rarely used. By the use of modern sections and foundation the comb honey now produced is a truly beautiful, very uniform product, so uniform in fact that it is often charged that it must be artificially manufactured. The purchaser of a section of comb honey may be absolutely certain, however, that he is obtaining a product of the bees, for never has anyone been able to imitate the bees' work successfully. To show their confidence in the purity of comb honey, the National Bee Keepers' Association offers $1,000 for a single pound of artificial comb filled with an artificially prepared sirup, which is at all difficult of detection.

There are several different styles of sections now in use, the usual sizes being 4¼ inches square and 4 by 5 inches. There are also two methods of spacing, so that there will be room for the passage of bees from the brood chamber into the sections and from one super of sections to another. This is done either by cutting "bee ways" in the sections and using plain flat separators or by using "no bee-way" or plain sections and using "fences"—separators with cleats fastened on each side, to provide the bee space. To describe allthe different "supers" or bodies for holding sections would be impossible in a bulletin of this size, and the reader must be referred to catalogues of dealers in beekeeping supplies. Instead of using regular comb honey supers, some bee keepers use wide frames to hold two tiers of sections. It is better, however, to have the supers smaller, so that the bees may be crowded more to produce full sections. To overcome this difficulty, shallow wide frames holding one tier of sections may be used. The majority of bee keepers find it advisable to use special comb honey supers.

Fig. 23.—Perforated zinc queen excluder.

In producing comb honey it is even more necessary to know the plants which produce surplus honey, and just when they come in bloom, than it is in extracted honey production. The colony should be so manipulated that the maximum field force is ready for the beginning of the flow. This requires care in spring management, and, above all, the prevention of swarming. Supers should be put on just before the heavy flow begins. A good indication of the need of supers is the whitening of the brood combs at the top. If the bees are in two hive bodies they should generally be reduced to one, and the frames should be filled with brood and honey so that as the new crop comes in the bees will carry it immediately to the sections above. If large hives are used for the brood chamber it is often advisable to remove some of the frames and use a division board to crowd the bees above. To prevent the queen from going into the sections to lay, a sheet of perforated zinc (fig. 23) may be put between the brood chamber and the super (fig. 2).

It is often difficult to get bees to begin work in the small sections, but this should be brought about as soon as possible to prevent loss of honey. If there are at hand some sections which have been partly drawn the previous year, these may be put in the super with the new sections as "bait." Another good plan is to put a shallow extracting frame on either side of the sections. If a few colonies in the apiary that are strong enough to go above refuse to do so, lift supers from some colonies that have started to work above and give them to the slow colonies. The super should generally be shaded somewhat to keep it from getting too hot. Artificial swarming will quickly force bees into the supers.

To produce the finest quality of comb honey full sheets of foundation should be used in the sections. Some bee keepers use nearly a full sheet hung from the top of the section and a narrow bottom starter. The use of foundation of worker-cell size is much preferred.

When one super becomes half full or more and there are indications that there will be honey enough to fill others, the first one should be raised and an empty one put on the hive under it. This tiering up can be continued as long as necessary, but it is advisable to remove filled sections as soon as possible after they are nicely capped, forthey soon become discolored and less attractive. Honey removed immediately after capping finds a better market, but if left on the hive even until the end of the summer the quality of the honey is improved. A careful watch must be kept on the honey flow, so as to give the bees only enough sections to store the crop. If this is not done a lot of unfinished sections will be left at the end of the flow. Honeys from different sources should not be mixed in the sections, as it usually gives the comb a bad appearance

To remove bees from sections, the super may be put over a bee escape so that the bees can pass down but can not return, or the supers may be removed and covered with a wire-cloth-cone bee escape.

Fig. 24.—Shipping case for comb honey.

After sections are removed the wood should be scraped free of propolis (bee glue) and then packed in shipping cases (fig. 24) for the market. Shipping cases to hold 12, 24, or 48 sections, in which the various styles of sections fit exactly, are manufactured by dealers in supplies. In shipping these cases, several of them should be put in a box or crate packed in straw and paper and handles provided to reduce the chances of breakage. When loaded in a freight car the combs should be parallel with the length of the car.

In preparing comb honey for market it should be carefully graded so that the sections in each shipping case are as uniform as possible. Nothing will more likely cause wholesale purchasers to cut the price than to find the first row of sections in a case fancy and those behind of inferior grade. Grading rules have been adopted by various bee keepers' associations or drawn up by honey dealers. The following sets of rules are in general use:

Eastern Grading Rules for Comb Honey.Fancy.—All sections -well filled; combs straight; firmly attached to all four sides; the combs unsoiled by travel, stain, or otherwise; all the cells sealed except an occasional one; the outside surface of the wood well scraped of propolis.A No. 1.—All sections well filled except the row of cells next to the wood; combs straight; one-eighth part of comb surface soiled, or the entire surface slightly soiled; the outside surface of the wood well scraped of propolis.No. 1.—All sections well filled except the row of cells next to the wood; combs comparatively even; one-eighth part of comb surface soiled, or the entire surface slightly soiled.No. 2.—Three-fourths of the total surface must be filled and sealed.No. 3.—Must weigh at least half as much as a full-weight section.In addition to this the honey is to be classified according to color, using the terms white, amber, and dark; that is, there will be "Fancy White," "No. 1 Dark," etc.New Comb Honey Grading Rules Adopted by the Colorado State Bee Keepers' Association.No. 1 White.—Sections to be well filled and evenly capped, except the outside row, next to the wood ; honey white or slightly amber, comb and cappings white, and not projecting beyond the wood; wood to be well cleaned; cases of separatored honey to average 21 pounds net per case of 24 sections; no section in this grade to weigh less than 13½ ounces. Cases of half-separatored honey to average not less than 22 pounds net per case of 24 sections. Cases of unseparatored honey to average not less than 23 pounds net per case of 24 sections.No. 1 Light Amber.—Sections to be well filled and evenly capped, except the outside row next to the wood; honey white or light amber; comb and cappings from white to off color, but not dark; comb not projecting beyond the wood; wood to be well cleaned. Cases of separatored honey to average 21 pounds net per case of 24 sections; no section in this grade to weigh less than 13½ ounces. Cases of half-separatored honey to average not less than 22 pounds net per case of 24 sections. Cases of unseparatored honey to average not less than 23 pounds net per case of 24 sections.No. 2.—This includes all white honey, and amber honey not included in the above grades; sections to be fairly well filled and capped, no more than 25 uncapped cells, exclusive of outside row, permitted in this grade; wood to be well cleaned; no section in this grade to weigh less than 12 ounces. Cases of separatored honey to average not less than 19 pounds net. Cases of half-separatored honey to average not less than 20 pounds net per case of 24 sections. Cases of unseparatored honey to average not less than 21 pounds net per case of 24 sections.

Eastern Grading Rules for Comb Honey.

Fancy.—All sections -well filled; combs straight; firmly attached to all four sides; the combs unsoiled by travel, stain, or otherwise; all the cells sealed except an occasional one; the outside surface of the wood well scraped of propolis.

A No. 1.—All sections well filled except the row of cells next to the wood; combs straight; one-eighth part of comb surface soiled, or the entire surface slightly soiled; the outside surface of the wood well scraped of propolis.

No. 1.—All sections well filled except the row of cells next to the wood; combs comparatively even; one-eighth part of comb surface soiled, or the entire surface slightly soiled.

No. 2.—Three-fourths of the total surface must be filled and sealed.

No. 3.—Must weigh at least half as much as a full-weight section.

In addition to this the honey is to be classified according to color, using the terms white, amber, and dark; that is, there will be "Fancy White," "No. 1 Dark," etc.

New Comb Honey Grading Rules Adopted by the Colorado State Bee Keepers' Association.

No. 1 White.—Sections to be well filled and evenly capped, except the outside row, next to the wood ; honey white or slightly amber, comb and cappings white, and not projecting beyond the wood; wood to be well cleaned; cases of separatored honey to average 21 pounds net per case of 24 sections; no section in this grade to weigh less than 13½ ounces. Cases of half-separatored honey to average not less than 22 pounds net per case of 24 sections. Cases of unseparatored honey to average not less than 23 pounds net per case of 24 sections.

No. 1 Light Amber.—Sections to be well filled and evenly capped, except the outside row next to the wood; honey white or light amber; comb and cappings from white to off color, but not dark; comb not projecting beyond the wood; wood to be well cleaned. Cases of separatored honey to average 21 pounds net per case of 24 sections; no section in this grade to weigh less than 13½ ounces. Cases of half-separatored honey to average not less than 22 pounds net per case of 24 sections. Cases of unseparatored honey to average not less than 23 pounds net per case of 24 sections.

No. 2.—This includes all white honey, and amber honey not included in the above grades; sections to be fairly well filled and capped, no more than 25 uncapped cells, exclusive of outside row, permitted in this grade; wood to be well cleaned; no section in this grade to weigh less than 12 ounces. Cases of separatored honey to average not less than 19 pounds net. Cases of half-separatored honey to average not less than 20 pounds net per case of 24 sections. Cases of unseparatored honey to average not less than 21 pounds net per case of 24 sections.

THE PRODUCTION OF WAX.

Beeswax, which is secreted by the bees and used by them for building their combs, is an important commercial product. There are times in almost every apiary when there are combs to be melted up, and it pays to take care of even scraps of comb and the cappings taken off in extracting. A common method of taking out the wax is to melt the combs in a solar wax extractor. This is perhaps the most feasible method where little wax is produced, but considerable wax still remains in old brood combs after such heating. Various wax presses are on the market, or one can be made at home. If much wax is produced, the bee keeper should make a careful study of the methods of wax extraction, as there is usually much wax wasted even after pressing.

PREPARATIONS FOR WINTERING.

After the main honey flow is over the management must depend on what may be expected later in the season from minor honey flows. If no crop is to be expected, the colony may well be kept only moderately strong, so that there will not be so many consumers in the hive.

In localities where winters are severe and breeding is suspended for several months great care should be taken that brood rearing is rather active during the late summer, so that the colony may go into winter with plenty of young bees. In case any queens show lack of vitality they should be replaced early, so that the bees will not become queenless during the winter.

The important considerations in wintering are plenty of young bees, a good queen, plenty of stores of good quality, sound hives, and proper protection from cold and dampness.

If, as cold weather approaches, the bees do not have stores enough, they must be fed. Every colony should have from 25 to 40 pounds, depending on the length of winter and the methods of wintering. It is better to have too much honey than not enough, for what is left is good next season. If feeding is practiced, honey may be used, but sirup made of granulated sugar is just as good and is perfectly safe. If honey is purchased for feeding, great care should be taken that it comes from a healthy apiary, otherwise the apiary may be ruined by disease.Never feed honey bought on the open market.The bees should be provided with stores early enough so that it will not be necessary to feed or to open the colonies after cold weather comes on. Honeydew honey should not be left in the hives, as it produces "dysentery." Some honeys are also not ideal for winter stores. Those which show a high percentage of gums (most tree honeys) are not so desirable, but will usually cause no trouble.

In wintering out of doors the amount of protection depends on the severity of the winter. In the South no packing is necessary, and even in very cold climates good colonies with plenty of stores can often pass the winter with little protection, but packing and protection make it necessary for the bees to generate less heat, and consequently they consume less stores and their vitality is not reduced. Dampness is probably harder for bees to withstand than cold, and when it is considered that bees give off considerable moisture, precautions should be taken that as it condenses it does not get on the cluster. An opening at the top would allow the moisture to pass out, but it would also waste heat, so it is better to put a mat of burlap or other absorbent material on top of the frames. The hive may also be packed in chaff, leaves, or other similar dry material to diminish the loss of heat. Some hives are made with double walls,the space being filled with chaff; these are good for outdoor wintering. The hive entrance should be lower than any other part of the hive, so that any condensed moisture may run out. The hives should be sound and the covers tight and waterproof.

Entrances should be contracted in cold weather not only to keep out cold wind, but to prevent mice from entering. There should always be enough room, however, for bees to pass in and out if warmer weather permits a flight.

In the hands of experienced bee keepers cellar wintering is very successful, but this method requires careful study. The cellar must be dry and so protected that the temperature never varies more than from 40 to 45° F.; 43° F. seems to be the optimum temperature. The ventilation must be good or the bees become fretful. Light should not be admitted to the cellar, and consequently some means of indirect ventilation is necessary.

Cellar wintering requires the consumption of less honey to maintain the proper temperature in the cluster and is therefore economical. Bees so wintered do not have an opportunity for a cleansing flight, often for several months, but the low consumption makes this less necessary. Some bee keepers advocate carrying the colonies out a few times on warm days, but it is not fully established whether this is entirely beneficial and it is usually not practiced.

The time for putting colonies in the cellar is a point of dispute, and practice in this regard varies considerably. They should certainly be put in before the weather becomes severe and as soon as they have ceased brood rearing. The time chosen may be at night when they are all in the hive, or on some chilly day.

The hives may be piled one on top of the other, the lower tier raised a little from the floor. The entrances should not be contracted unless the colony is comparatively weak. It is usually not considered good policy to close the entrances with ordinary wire cloth, as the dead bees which accumulate more or less on the bottom boards may cut off ventilation, and the entrance should be free so that these may be cleaned out.

It is, however, good policy to cover the entrance with wire-cloth having three meshes to the inch to keep out mice.

The time of removing bees from the cellar is less easily determined than that of putting them in. The colonies may be removed early and wrapped inblacktar paper or left until the weather is settled. If the weather is very warm and the bees become fretful, the cellar must either be cooled or the bees removed. Some bee keepers prefer to remove bees at night, so that they can recover from the excitement and fly from the hive normally in the morning. One of the chief difficulties is to prevent the bees from getting into the wrong hives after their first flights. They often "drift" badlywith the wind, and sometimes an outside row will become abnormally strong, leaving other colonies weak.

The night before the bees are removed from the cellar it is good practice to leave the cellar doors and windows wide open.

DISEASES AND ENEMIES.

There are two infectious diseases of the brood of bees which cause great losses to the beekeeping industry of the United States. These are known as American foul brood and European foul brood. Both of these diseases destroy colonies by killing the brood, so that there are not enough young bees emerging to take the place of the old adult bees as these die from natural causes. The adult bees are not attacked by either disease. In the hands of careful bee keepers both diseases may be controlled, and this requires careful study and constant watching. In view of the fact that these diseases are now widely distributed throughout the United States, every bee keeper should read the available literature on the subject, so that if disease enters his apiary he may be able to recognize it before it gets a start. The symptoms and the treatment recommended by this department are given in another publication which will be sent free on request.[2]

[2]Farmers' Bulletin No. 442. "The Treatment of Bee Diseases."

It is difficult for a bee keeper to keep his apiary free from disease if others about him have diseased colonies which are not properly treated. The only way to keep disease under control is for the bee keepers in the neighborhood to cooperate in doing everything possible to stamp out disease as soon as it appears in a single colony. The progressive bee keeper who learns of disease in his neighborhood should see to it that the other bee keepers around him are supplied with literature describing symptoms and treatment, and should also try to induce them to unite in eradicating the malady. Since it is so often impossible to get all of the bee keepers in a community to treat infected colonies properly and promptly, it is desirable that the States pass laws providing for the inspection of apiaries and granting to the inspector the power to compel negligent bee keepers to treat diseased colonies so that the property of others may not be endangered and destroyed. This has been done in a number of States, but there are still some where the need is great and in which no such provision has been made. When no inspection is provided, bee keepers should unite in asking for such protection, so that the danger to the industry may be lessened.

In case there is an inspector for the State or county, he should be notified as soon as disease is suspected in the neighborhood. Some bee keepers hesitate to report disease through fear that theinspector will destroy their bees or because they feel that it is a disgrace to have disease in the apiary. There is no disgrace in having colonies become diseased; the discredit is in not treating them promptly. The inspectors are usually, if not universally, good practical bee keepers who from a wide experience are able to tell what should be done in individual cases to give the best results with the least cost in material and labor. They do not destroy colonies needlessly, and, in fact, they all advocate and teach treatment.

The brood diseases are frequently introduced into a locality by the shipping in of diseased colonies; or, more often, the bees get honey from infected colonies which is fed to them, or which they rob, from discarded honey cans. It is decidedly dangerous to purchase honey on the market, with no knowledge of its source, to be used in feeding bees. Many outbreaks of disease can be traced to this practice (see "Feeding,"p. 26). It is difficult to prevent bees from getting contaminated honey accidentally. If colonies are purchased, great care should be taken that there is no disease present. Whenever possible, colonies should be purchased near at home, unless disease is already present in the neighborhood.

There are other diseased conditions of the brood, known to bee keepers as "pickle brood," but these can usually be distinguished from the two diseases previously mentioned. The so-called "pickle brood" is not contagious and no treatment is necessary. Bees also suffer from "dysentery," which is discussed in the earlier part of this bulletin, and from the so-called "paralysis," a disease of adult bees. No treatment for the latter disease can as yet be recommended as reliable. The sprinkling of powdered sulphur on the top bars of frames or at the entrance is sometimes claimed to be effective, but under what circumstances it is beneficial is unknown.

A number of insects, birds, and mammals must be classed as enemies of bees, but of these the two wax moths, and ants, are the only ones of importance. There are two species of moth, the larger wax moth (Galleria mellonellaL.), and the lesser wax moth (Achroia grisellaFab.), the larvæ of which destroy combs by burrowing through them.[3]Reports are frequently received in the department that the larvæ of these moths (usually the larger species) are destroying colonies of bees. It may be stated positively that moths do not destroy strong, healthy colonies in good hives, and if it is supposed that they are causing damage the bee keeper should carefully study his colonies to see what other trouble has weakened them enough for the moths to enter. Queenlessness, lack of stores, or some such trouble may be the condition favorable to the entrance of the pest, but a careful examination should be made of the brood to see whether there is anyevidence of disease. This is the most frequent cause of the cases of moth depredation reported to this department. Black bees are less capable of driving moth larvæ out, but, even with these bees, strong colonies rarely allow them to remain. The observance of the golden rule of beekeeping, "Keep all colonies strong," will solve the moth question unless disease appears.

[3]Bee keepers refer to these insects as "moths," "wax moths," "bee moths," "millers," "wax worms," "honey moths," "moth worms," "moth millers," and "grubs." The last six terms are not correct.

Moth larvæ often destroy combs stored outside the hive. To prevent this the combs may be fumigated with sulphur fumes or bisulphid of carbon in tiers of hives or in tight rooms. If bisulphid of carbon is used, great care should be taken not to bring it near a flame, as it is highly inflammable. Combs should be stored in a dry, well-ventilated, light room.

In the warmer parts of the country ants are often a serious pest. They may enter the hive for protection against changes of temperature, or to prey on the honey stores or the brood. The usual method of keeping them out is to put the hive on a stand, the legs of which rest in vessels containing water or creosote. Another method is to wrap a tape soaked in corrosive sublimate around the bottom board.

GENERAL INFORMATION.

For the purpose of answering numerous questions which are asked of this department the following brief topics are included.

BREEDERS OF QUEENS.

There are a large number of bee keepers who make a business of rearing queens of good stock for sale. The queens are usually sent by mail. If poor stock is all that can be obtained locally, it is recommended that such colonies be purchased and the queens removed and replaced with those obtained from a good breeder. This department can supply names of breeders, nearest the applicant, of any race raised in this country.

INTRODUCING QUEENS.

When queens are shipped by mail they usually come in cages (fig. 25) which can be used for introducing. If the colony to receive the new queen has one, she must be removed and the cage inserted between the frames. The small hole leading into the candy compartment is uncovered, and the bees gradually eat through and release the queen. If queens are reared at home, a similar cage may be used for introducing. In view of the fact that disease may be transmitted in mailing cages, it is always a wise precaution to remove the new queen and destroy the accompanying workers and the cage and its contents. The queen may then be put into a clean cage without worker bees, with candy known to be free from contamination (made from honey from healthy hives), and introduced in the regular way.

Queens sold by breeders are always mated unless otherwise specified, and consequently the colony in which they are introduced has no effect on her offspring. During the active season the bees in the colony are all the offspring of the new queen in about nine weeks. Three weeks is required for the previous brood to emerge (if the colony has not been queenless). and in six weeks after all the old brood emerges most of the workers from it will have died. Queens are usually sold according to the following classification:

"Untested queen"—one that has mated, but the race of the drone is not known.

"Tested queen"—one that has mated and has been kept only long enough to show, from the markings of her progeny, that she mated with a drone of her own race.

"Breeding queen"—a tested queen which has shown points of superiority, making her desirable for breeding purposes.

Fig. 25.—Queen mailing cage.

DEALERS IN BEE KEEPERS' SUPPLIES.

There are several manufacturers of supplies in this country who can furnish almost anything desired by the bee keeper. Some of them have agents in various parts of the country from whom supplies may be purchased, thus saving considerable in freight.

BEE KEEPERS' ASSOCIATIONS.

There are a large number of associations of bee keepers in all parts of the country, formed for the betterment of the industry, and a few associations which are organized to aid the members in purchasing supplies and in selling the crops. Of these the National Bee Keepers" Association is the largest. It helps its members in obtaining their legal rights, and aids in securing legislation for the furtherance of the industry. The annual conventions are held in different parts of the country, and copies of the proceedings are sent to the members. There are also numerous State, county, and town associations, some of which publish proceedings. The names of officers of the nearest associations or of the National Bee Keepers' Association will be sent from this department on request.

LAWS AFFECTING BEEKEEPING.

Disease inspection.—Various States have passed laws providing for the State or county inspection of apiaries for bee-disease control, and every bee keeper should get in touch with an inspector whendisease is suspected, if one is provided. The inspectors are practical bee keepers who fully understand how to control the diseases, and are of great help in giving directions in this matter. The name of the inspector of any locality can usually be furnished, and this department is glad to aid bee keepers in reaching the proper officers.

Laws against spraying fruit trees while in bloom.—The spraying of fruit trees while in bloom is not now advised by economic entomologists, and to prevent the practice some States have passed laws making it a misdemeanor. Such spraying not only kills off honey bees, causing a loss to the bee keeper, but interferes with the proper pollination of the blossoms and is thus a detriment to the fruit grower. Bee keepers should do everything in their power to prevent the practice.

Laws against the adulteration of honey.—The national food and drugs act of 1906, and various State pure food laws, are a great aid to the bee keeper in preventing the sale of adulterated extracted honey as pure honey. Bee keepers can often aid in this work by reporting to the proper officials infringements of these laws which come to their notice.

When bees are a nuisance.—Some cities have passed ordinances prohibiting the keeping of bees in certain areas, but so far none has been able to enforce them. If bees are a nuisance in individual cases, the owner may be compelled to remove them. The National Bee Keepers' Association "will help any of its members in such cases, if they are in the right, as well as in cases where bees sting horses. Bee keepers should be careful not to locate bees where they can cause any trouble of this kind.

SUPPOSED INJURY OF CROPS BY BEES.

Bee keepers are often compelled to combat the idea that bees cause damage to fruit or other crops by sucking the nectar from the flower. This is not only untrue, but in many cases the bees are a great aid in the pollination of the flowers, making a good crop possible. A more frequent complaint is that bees puncture fruit and suck the juices. Bees never puncture sound fruit, but if the skin is broken by some other means bees will often suck the fruit dry. In doing it, however, they are sucking fruit which is already damaged. These and similar charges against the honey bee are prompted by a lack of information concerning their activities. Bees may, of course, become a nuisance to others through their stinging propensities, but bee keepers should not be criticized for things which their bees do not do.

JOURNALS AND BOOKS ON BEEKEEPING.

The progressive bee keeper will find it to his profit to subscribe for at least one journal devoted to beekeeping. Several of these are published in the United States. The names and addresses ofsuch journals may usually be obtained from a subscription agent for periodicals, or from a supply dealer.

It will also be advantageous to read and study books on beekeeping, of which several are published in this country. These are advertised in journals devoted to beekeeping, or may usually be obtained through the local book dealer or through dealers in bee keepers' supplies.

PUBLICATIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE ON BEE KEEPING.[4]

[4]List revised to April 1, 1911. (VII.)

There are several publications of this department which are of interest to bee keepers, and new ones are added from time to time in regard to the different lines of investigation.

The following publications relating to bee culture, prepared in the Bureau of Entomology, are for free distribution and may be obtained by addressing the Secretary of Agriculture:[5]

[5]Farmers' Bulletin No. 59, "Bee Keeping," and Farmers' Bulletin No. 397, "Bees," have been superseded by Farmers' Bulletin No. 447.Circular No. 79, "The Brood Diseases of Bees," has been superseded by Farmers' Bulletin No. 442.Bulletin No. 1, "The Honey Bee," has been discontinued.

Farmers' Bulletin No. 59, "Bee Keeping," and Farmers' Bulletin No. 397, "Bees," have been superseded by Farmers' Bulletin No. 447.

Circular No. 79, "The Brood Diseases of Bees," has been superseded by Farmers' Bulletin No. 442.

Bulletin No. 1, "The Honey Bee," has been discontinued.

Farmers' Bulletin No. 447, "Bees." By E. F. Phillips, Ph. D. 1911. 48 pp., 25 figs.

A general account of the management of bees.

Farmers' Bulletin No. 442, "The Treatment of Bee Diseases." By E. F. Phillips, Ph. D. 1911. 22 pp., 7 figs.

This publication gives briefly the symptoms of the various bee diseases, with directions for treatment.

Circular No. 94, "The Cause of American Foul Brood." By G. F. White, Ph. D. 1907. 4 pp.

This publication contains a brief account of the Investigations which demonstrated for the first time the cause of one of the brood diseases of bees, American foul brood.

Circular No. 138. "The Occurrence of Bee Diseases in the United States. (Preliminary Report.)" By E. F. Phillips, Ph. D. 1911. 25 pp.

A record of the localities from which samples of diseased brood were received prior to March 1, 1911.

Bulletin No. 55, "The Rearing of Queen Bees." By E. F. Phillips, Ph. D. 1905. 32 pp., 17 figs.

A general account of the methods used in queen rearing. Several methods are given, so that the bee keeper may choose those best suited to his individual needs.

Bulletin No. 70, "Report of the Meeting of Inspectors of Apiaries, San Antonio, Tex., November 12, 1906." 1907. 79 pp., 1 plate.

Contains a brief history of bee-disease investigations, an account of the relationship of bacteria to bee diseases, and a discussion of treatment by various Inspectors of apiaries and other practical bee keepers who are familiar with diseases of bees.

Bulletin No. 75, Part I, "Production and Care of Extracted Honey." By E. F. Phillips, Ph. D. "Methods of Honey Testing for Bee Keepers." By C. A. Browne, Ph. D. 1907. 18 pp.

The methods of producing extracted honey, with special reference to the care of honey after it is taken from the bees, so that its value may not be decreased by improper handling. The second portion of the publication gives some simple tests for adulteration.

Bulletin No. 75, Part II, "Wax Moths and American Foul Brood." By E. F. Phillips, Ph. D. 1907. Pp. 19-22, 3 plates.

An account of the behavior of the two species of wax moths on combs containing American foul brood, showing that moths do not destroy the disease-carrying scales.

Bulletin No. 75, Part III, "Bee Diseases in Massachusetts." By Burton N. Gates. 1908. Pp. 23-32, map.

An account of the distribution of the brood diseases of bees in the State, with brief directions for controlling them.

Bulletin No. 75, Part IV. "The Relation of the Etiologv (Cause) of Bee Diseases to the Treatment." By G. F. White, Ph. D. 1908. Pp: 33-42.

The necessity for a knowledge of the cause of bee diseases before rational treatment is possible is pointed out. The present state of knowledge of the causes of disease is summarized.

Bulletin No. 75, Part V, "A Brief Survey of Hawaiian Bee Keeping." By E. F. Phillips, Ph. D. 1909. Pp. 43-58, 6 plates.

An account of the beekeeping methods used in a tropical country and a comparison with mainland conditions. Some new manipulations are recommended.

Bulletin No 75, Part VI, "The Status of Apiculture in the United States." By E. F. Phillips, Ph. D. 1909. Pp. 59-80.

A survey of present-day beekeeping in the United States, with suggestions as to the work yet to be done before apiculture will have reached its fullest development.

Bulletin No. 75, Part VII, "Bee Keeping in Massachusetts." By Burton N. Gates. 1909. Pp. 81-109, 2 figs.

An account of a detailed study of the apicultural conditions in Massachusetts. The object of this paper is to point out the actual conditions and needs of beekeeping in New England.

Bulletin No. 75, Contents and Index. 1911. Pp. vii+111-123.

Bulletin No. 75, Parts I-VII, complete with Contents and Index. 1911. Pp. viii+123.

Bulletin No. 98. "Historical Notes on the Causes of Bee Diseases." By E. F. Phillips, Ph. D., and G. F. White, Ph. D., M. D. (In press.)

A summary of the various investigations concerning the etiology (Cause) of bee diseases.

Technical Series, No. 14, "The Bacteria of the Apiary with Special Reference to Bee Diseases." By G. F. White, Ph. D. 1906. 50 pp.

A study of the bacteria present in both the healthy and the diseased colony, with special reference to the diseases of bees.

Technical Series No. 18, "The Anatomy of the Honey Bee." By R. E. Snodgrass. 1910. 162 pp., 57 figs.

An account of the structure of the bee, with technical terms omitted so far as possible. Practically all of the illustrations are new, and the various parts are interpreted according to the best usage in comparative anatomy of insects. A brief discussion of the physiology of the various organs is included .

BUREAU OF CHEMISTRY.

Bulletin No. 110, "Chemical Analysis and Composition of American Honeys." By C. A. Browne. Including "A Microscopical Study of Honey Pollen." By W. J. Young. 1908. 93 pp., 1 fig., 6 plates.

A comprehensive study of the chemical composition of American honeys. This publication is technical in nature and will perhaps be little used by practical bee keepers, but it is an important contribution to apicultural literature. By means of this work the detection of honey adulteration is much aided.

HAWAII AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENTAL STATION. HONOLULU, HAWAII.

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