The first impression of a house and its occupants comes as one enters through the front door into the hall. Thus, nowhere in the entire house is it more important to strike the right keynote in furnishing and decoration. If there is no closet in the hall for wraps and umbrellas, it will be necessary to have in some obscure corner a wooden strip painted the same color as the woodwork, in which are solid brass hooks, placed low enough so that the young members of the family can reach them. Also, for umbrellas, provide a plain pottery jar which will harmonize with the color scheme of walls and carpets.
On the hall table have a card tray—brass if the hardware is brass—silver if the hardware is nickel or iron—and a medium-sized pottery vase in crackle ware, or some natural color. A hall lantern or scones would be in harmony with these furnishings, and have decorative value.
A Suggested Color Scheme for the Hall
Walls—Ivory paper or paint.
Woodwork—Paint—dull finish.
Floors—Hardwood—Stained antique oak, finished with wax or varnish.
Floors—Softwood—Painted a deep yellow, or gray, or stained to represent hardwood.
Floors—Linoleum—In a tile pattern of black and white, provided the living room is not directly connected with the hall; in such case use only plain brown, grey, or Jaspe linoleum.
Below is a Suggested List of Furnishings Which the Hall Might Contain
A table—Of oak, mahogany, or walnut, either drop-leaf, gate-leg, or console.
A mirror—Gilt, or to match the wood in the table, Early American or English.
A straight chair or two—With or without rush seats, enameled black, with stencil design, or to match the wood of the tables.
A low-boy—Of mahogany or walnut, with drawers for gloves, string, etc.
A large chest—Of oak or brass-trimmed mahogany, for overshoes, etc.
One or two rugs—May beOrientalin blues, browns, tans or black; or wool braided, in blues, browns, tans or black; or Wilton, in blues, browns, tans or black; or Axminster, in blues, browns, tans or black.
A cocoa matplaced at front door.
The Living Room
As the living room is the gathering place for family and friends, it may well be considered the most important room in the house. It should take its keynote for decoration from the hall. If there is a wide doorway connecting the living room with the hall, the color scheme should be the same. As the living room serves as library also, open book shelves, painted the same as the woodwork, are essential, and more substantial than book cases.
The first requisite of such a room is that it shall be restful. Avoid using rocking chairs. Use little bric-a-brac. Nothing which does not contribute to the necessity and beauty of the room should be allowed.
Tan or ivory is good in a room which is inclined to be dark, or gray and gray-green in a room inclined to be bright.
A Suggested Color Scheme for Living Room
Walls—Ivory, cream or gray—paper or paint.
Woodwork—Ivory paint—dull finish.
Floors—Hardwood—Stained antique oak with wax or varnish finish.
Floors—Softwood—Painted a deep yellow or gray, or stained to represent hardwoods.
A Suggested List of Furnishings for Living Room
Table—Drop-leaf—in mahogany, weathered oak, or walnut; Gateleg—in mahogany, weathered oak, or walnut; Modern Chippendale—mahogany, weathered oak, or walnut, or Sheraton type of table.
Sofa—Upholstered in either sage green or brown upholsterer's velvet; blue, yellow, mauve satin or taffeta sofa cushions.
Armchair—Overstuffed chair in indefinite striped upholsterer's velvet in sage green; satin cushion in corn color.
Armchair—Back and seat upholstered in brown like sofa—arms of mahogany.
Desk—A reproduction of a Sheraton, Hepplewhite, or Early English Desk.
Chair—Rush bottom—same wood as desk, or in dull black or sage green dull enamel, conventional stencil design.
Wicker chair—Of brown or natural wicker, with printed linen cushions in floral pattern.
Tilt table for cards or tea—Mahogany or walnut.
Fireplace(If any)—A wood-box or basket; andirons and fire screen, hearth brush and tongs.
A Reading Lamp—Sage green or black pottery base; an old gold colored paper shade, fluted or plain, top and bottom bound with sage green tape ribbon, or guimpe.
A Clock—In simple, plain design of wood, antique gilt, or leather.
Footstool—Small ottoman, covered in black and yellow needlework, or velvet same as sofa (brown).
Waste paper basket—Small black wicker next to desk.
Decorative Accessories—Green vase, gold luster bowl, mauve pottery piece; Desk appointments in dull brass, bronze, or leather; Book-ends—Library Shears. Match box and ash tray on table in brass or bronze.
Carpet—One large or several small Orientals, or a Wilton, Axminster, or velvet in two tone of brown or tan, or in plain colors.Glass curtains—Cream, marquisette, cheese-cloth, or scrim, made plain.
Overdraperies—(If desired)—Can be either printed linen, same as cushion in wicker chair, lined with sage green sateen, or brown or sage green poplin, silk damask or sunfast.
Chairs—If the room is large enough, one or two chairs, chosen to correspond with those already in the room, may be added.
Dining Room
The dining room should be one of the most cheerful and inspiring rooms of the house. It is the place where the family gathers to enjoy meals together, and nothing insures a better start than having breakfast in a bright, cheerful room.
If the dining room and living room are connected by wide doorways, have the walls of both rooms alike. If they are connected by a small door, the walls may be in some light cloudy landscape paper, or in a small allover pattern in light cream, buff, gray, tan, or putty color. Because there is so much blue china, persons feel that they want blue dining rooms. This is a mistake, as blue used in large quantities in either walls, china, or hanging absorbs the light and makes a room gloomy. Do not display china or glassware in a so-called china closet. A built-in corner cupboard, or a small mahogany or rosewood cabinet, which might hold rare bits of pottery and china, is permissible. It is far better to use the pantry shelves for china than to crowd it into a china closet.
It is best to use a rug with small figures. The hangings should be in plain colors, taken from the predominating colors in the wall covering; or if the walls are the same as the living room, the hangings should be chosen from the predominating color in the living room. This will bring the rooms into perfect harmony, without having them just alike.
Suggested Color Scheme for Dining Room
Walls—Ivory or cream, if closely connected with living room. A cloudy landscape, crepe, or cartridge paper in buffs, pale grays, fawn, or cream if closed off from living room.
[Illustration: DINING ROOM This well-proportioned dining room with its plain walls and figured floor covering has a square mahogany table and eight chairs of the Georgian period.]
Woodwork—Ivory.
Floors—Hardwood—Stained antique oak, with wax or varnish finish.
Floors—Softwood—Painted a deep yellow or gray, or covered in plain brown, gray, or Jaspe linoleum.
Suggested List of Furniture for Dining Room
Table—Round or square extension, or drop-leaf—six legs—in mahogany, walnut, weathered oak, or painted black, gray, or coco. Might be reproduction of Hepplewhite, Sheraton, or Georgian period. A glass, silver, or pottery bowl, containing flowers, on the table; plain ecru linen doilies.
Chairs—8 chairs—Mahogany—Damask seats, Hepplewhite backs. Walnut—English linen seats, Sheraton backs. Weathered Oak—Velvet Seats, Queen Anne backs. Painted—Rush seats, or wooden seats, Windsor or straight backs.
Sideboard—Low, broad, after Hepplewhite or Sheraton, a Welsh dresser with Windsor chairs. (Here keep either a few good pieces of silver with candlesticks on either end, or a large pottery bowl filled with fruit in the center, and candlesticks to match the bowl placed at either end, or some bits of red or yellow glass, but do not combine all three. Do not use delicate lace runners or doilies. Plain linen, or heavy real filet is far more effective Display no cut glass or hand-painted china.)
Mirror or Mellow, dark-toned painting—Framed in antique gilt or to correspond with the wood of the furniture selected, and hung on level with the eye, directly in the center and over the sideboard.
Serving Table—To correspond with other furniture selected, and placed as near the kitchen door as possible.
Here keep two or four silver or glass candlesticks which are used on the table at night, also a silver, mahogany, or wicker tray.
Mirror—Queen Anne type—over serving table—especially if serving table is between two windows, it gives effect of space.
Muffin stand—Especially for maidless house—of mahogany, walnut, or painted to correspond with furniture selected.
Nest of Tables—Small, square, of either mahogany, walnut, or black lacquer, to be kept in a corner and used for tea parties, functions, etc.
Rug—Large Oriental—In blues, yellows, browns, or old rose and black; Wilton—in blues, yellows, brown, or old rose, and black; Axminster—in blues, yellows, browns, or old rose, and black; Chenille or velvet, in plain colors.
Curtains—Glass curtains to match living room, in either marquisette, cheese cloth, or scrim, made plain.
Overdraperies—If desired, can be either like the living room, if rooms are in close proximity, or taken from the predominating color note of living room hangings if these are figured.
With a cloudy or landscape paper, use plain poplin, rep, or sunfast, in warm tans, sage green, with bands of black or orange, or both, across the bottom; this would give character to the room.
Uniformity in furniture chosen—Be sure in choosing your furniture that uniformity is observed as to period, wood, and type. For example, if a Sheraton sideboard in mahogany is selected, then the entire furniture of the dining room should be of the Sheraton type in mahogany.
Bedrooms
The first requisite in furnishing a bedroom is that it appears crisp and clean. The walls, light in color, must be restful and simple in design. The woodwork should be white, if possible. Painted furniture is very popular for a bedroom because of its dainty appearance, but dull-finished mahogany or walnut in four post or Colonial design, with rag, braided, or hooked rugs, makes a charming bedroom.
Place the bed where the sleeper will not be subject to strong light or cross drafts (see page 27 for proper ventilation). A dressing table is fashionable, but not as practical as a chest of drawers with mirror above. A full-length mirror installed in a closet door, or hung in a narrow wall space, is a very decided adjunct. Be sure to place the dressing table or chest of drawers where the light is not reflected from an opposite window. To secure a good view, the light should be directed upon the person to be reflected, and not upon the mirror.
Avoid placing the furniture all on one side of the room. If possible, intermingle high and low pieces to secure a proper balance. If one bed is used, be sure to place beside it a table on which should be a lamp, telephone, and small water bottle and glass. If two beds are used, place this table between the two beds.
If the walls are plain in color, figured draperies and bedspreads can be used. If the walls have on them a small design, plain materials for these purposes should be used.
Suggested Color Scheme for Bedroom
Walls—Corn colored cross-bar paper.
Woodwork—White, dull finish, paint.
Floors—Hardwood—Stained antique oak, with wax or varnish finish.
Floors—Softwood—Painted a deep yellow, or covered in plain brown, tan, or Jaspe linoleum.
Suggested List of Furnishings for the Bedroom
Bed—Full size, or twin beds—In mahogany, walnut, ivory paint, or enamel. Box or wire springs. Mattress and pillows.
Bedspreads and bureau covers may be made of unbleached muslin, bound with wide bands of plain yellow, blue, and brown, these colors overlapping each other, or plain white Swiss, dimity, or Marseilles.
One high-boy, or high chest of drawers for man—In mahogany, walnut, or painted. This piece should conform with or match other furniture in room. Brushes, comb, box for odds and ends, clothes brush.
Mirror—Hung flat against the wall—in same wood as high-boy.
One Dressing Table—or low chest of drawers—for lady—with mirror hung over the chest of drawers. May be in mahogany, walnut, or painted. With toilet articles in silver or tortoise shell, or ivory; pin cushion, scent bottles. The mirror may be of Queen Anne type in antique gilt, to correspond with woods used in room.
Two straight back chairs—In mahogany, walnut, or painted, with plain wood, rush, or caned seats.
Natural wicker arm chair—Sturdy type placed near window, with cushions of chintz or sateen to match the bedspreads.
Small flat-top desk and chair—In either mahogany, walnut, or painted, to correspond with furniture.
Supply with note paper, silver or brass ink-well, and blue feather pen.
Small Sewing Table—Of Martha Washington design, or a Colonial type, in mahogany or rosewood. Place on it small lamp with base of wood, in brown or tan porcelain, and having a shade of blue silk lined with tan silk.
A Chest—In either cedar, mahogany, or cretonne-covered, and placed under a window or in a corner for storage of summer or winter clothes.
Rugs—Oriental in black, blues, or yellows, plain brown or tan carpet, made into a large rug, or wool braided, hooked, or heavy rag rugs, in black, blues, tans, browns.
Small rugs should be placed near the bed, dressing table, and high-boy.
Curtains—Glass curtains of scrim, marquisette, or cheese-cloth, to correspond with those of living room and dining room.
Draperies—Draperies of either cretonne or muslin to match bedspreads, with bands of yellow, blue and brown sateen to correspond with bedspreads.
Bedroom for Either Boys or Girls
It has been proven that furnishings and color produce either desirable or disastrous effects upon the sensitive minds of children. As all children's rooms are usually a combination of bedroom, play room, and study, it is well to keep in mind colors, design, arrangement, and practicality for all purposes.
To most children, a spotty or too often repeated design is distracting. Blues and violets soothe, while reds, yellows, and sometimes greens are exciting and stimulating colors. We so often send our children to study and amuse themselves in their room, but have we done our share in providing them with the comforts and necessities that will assist them to produce better school work?
Boys—With no frills, light fabrics, or woodwork for them to soil and mar, their rooms still may be made interesting—even beautiful—but convenience and masculinity should be kept foremost in mind.
Girls—A girl's room, on the other hand, should be dainty, bright, and frivolous. Her personality, even at a very tender age, will clearly be disclosed by the way she cares for her room. There is no need of a great expenditure of money in buying furniture or hangings for a girl's room. Some of the cheaper fabrics and simplest furniture will make the most charming room.
A Suggested Color Scheme
Walls—Buff-colored paint, or tinted walls.
Woodwork—Stained mission oak or walnut.
Floors—Hardwood floor, strips of coco matting, or woolbraided rugs. Softwood—a large square of linoleum.
Suggested List of Furnishings
Bed—Something of the day bed type. Bedspread of blue denim, with stitched bands of yellow sateen at edge.
Chest of Drawers—Painted buff or brown, or walnut or mission oak.
A Mirror—Antique gilt, or of wood to match chest of drawers, hung low.
A Desk—Of the craftsman type, with stool or bench to match.
Two Wooden Chairs—Either painted or of mission oak.
A Table—Low, plain wooden table, of walnut, or stained to match the woodwork.
One Comfortable Chair—Brown wicker, or the Windsor type.
A Lamp—Of the student type, or on a bracket, securely fastened on the wall.
A Tie Rack—Hung near chest of drawers.
One or two shelves—For books, trophies, etc. Made of plain wood, stained to match the woodwork of a plain bookcase of mission oak.
Curtains—Of blue denim, with stitched bands of sateen at edge—hung straight.
A Suggested Color Scheme
Walls—Papered in a soft gray-rose, allover design paper.
Woodwork—Cream paint.
Floor—Hardwood—Rag rugs, with rose stripes or a gray chenille carpet. Softwood—Battleship gray paint, with rag rugs or rose chenille carpet.
Suggested List of Furnishings
Bed—Single—Painted ivory or cream—four post, or with some low, simple headboard.
Bedspread of rose dotted swiss, with wide ruffle.
A Dressing Table—To match bed, with rose colored sateen mats—bound in pale-gray with drawers.
A Large Box—For waists, etc. Covered in rose and gray cretonne.
A Desk—To correspond with painted furniture; a gray blotter and rose colored pen.
Two Chairs—One of natural wicker with cushions of rose sateen, and one of wood to correspond with painted furniture, caned seat.
A Sewing Table—Of mahogany or cherry.
A Lamp—China base with a shade of silk, dotted swiss, or rose-colored paper.
The Nursery
The ideal nursery is also a play room. It should, as nearly as possible, meet the ideals of the child's own world. In that room are received early impressions which are never forgotten, and which have a lasting influence on the adult life.
Don't bedeck the cribs, beds, or curtains with ribbons and laces, and expect your child to be happy. The "don'ts" and "be carefuls" make children irritable and unhappy. Choose the room with a thought to sunlight, and be sure it has outside blinds which will darken the room without keeping out the air.
The floor should be bare with the exception of one rug near the bed, or should be covered with a good grade of plain linoleum.
The walls and woodwork should be painted, if possible, a cream or light gray. Some fairy tale friezes are attractive, and afford opportunities of introducing color, but, if used, should not be placed too high on the wall—about three-quarters of the way up from the floor is a reasonable height. Child-study has taught that many and oft-repeated designs and subjects become meaningless, especially to older children.
The furniture in the nursery should be practical. Painted furniture and wicker chairs are attractive. A comfortable winged or overstuffed chair for the grown-ups is essential. Low shelves and cupboards, built for toys and books, are necessary if the room is to be kept neat and tidy. A stationary blackboard, and a large box for books and cherished belongings, are very welcome additions.
A Suggested Color Scheme for the Nursery
Walls—A soft, misty, gray paint, tint, or plain paper.
Woodwork—A dull white.
Floors—Plain hardwood, with a rag or braided rug in sapphire blue—or softwood, entirely covered in taupe Jaspe linoleum.
Below Is a Suggested List of Furnishings Which the Nursery Might Contain
A Crib—White iron or wood, on ball bearing casters.
Bedspread of yellow and white seersucker, or a silky yellow sunfast.
A Tall Chest of Drawers—Painted cream or white, with plenty of drawers.
Table—Low nursery table or tall one which has had its legs cut.
Two Chairs—Low, with wooden seats, and painted to match the furniture.
A Desk—Flat top with plenty of paper and pencils.
Waste Paper Basket—White or natural wicker.
One Large Fireside Chair—With slip cover of blue and yellow striped linen.
Glass Curtains—Of best quality of cream colored cheesecloth, bound in yellow tape.
Over draperies(If desired)—Of primrose yellow silk, or sunfast, or striped yellow and blue linen to match slip cover.
Clothes Rack—Low wooden rack, painted white, with at least four hooks.
Closet—Should have a low pole on which could be hung plenty of hangers. Also a shelf about 6 inches from the floor for shoes, etc.
Large Cushionsfor the floor—One each of blue, yellow, nile green and orange.
Color Scheme—If you desire another color scheme, such as blue-and-white, or pink-and-white, write for information.
Model Kitchen
PREPARED BY THE HOME ECONOMICS BUREAU OF THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
The first consideration in arranging kitchen equipment is to save steps and labor. The kitchen should be clean, odorless and attractive.
Size—Not more than 120 square feet of working space for preparing food and washing dishes. More space when kitchen is used for laundry or has dining alcove.
Ventilation—If no cross drafts are provided for, cut a transom over back door if possible and arrange window boards to allow ventilation through top and bottom of window. Is desirable to have hood installed over stove to carry off drafts.
Lighting—Two or three windows desirable and a glass pane in kitchen door. If unavailable, increase light by having very pale walls and mirrors in dark corners. Artificial light should be from powerful burner hung from center of ceiling. Electric light should be indirect. Additional side lights should be added near sink and stove, unless they receive full light.
Wall Coverings—(1) Commercial oil cloth wall covering; or (2) good oil enamel paint. Color—Light tones. On Southern exposure—pale gray, green or pale blue; on Northern exposure—buff walls with a deeper buff or tan woodwork are good. For very dark rooms—white. Avoid white in well lighted rooms because of glare. If natural color, woodwork should have two coats of water proof varnish; if painted, two coats of flat paint and one of enamel paint.
Floor Coverings—If room has cement floors, provide rubber mats before sink, stove and cabinet to avoid foot strain. Otherwise, use linoleum slightly darker than walls and harmonizing or contrasting in color; or any other surface easy to keep clean.
List of Kitchen Fixtures
The Kitchen should have the following equipment:
Range—Coal, wood, gas, oil or electric. Good hood for ventilation is desirable. Height of all working surfaces depends upon height of woman who will work in kitchen. All working surfaces including top of range should be as near the same height as possible. Height should be at least 32 inches, or more, if worker is tall. A label should state this fact. If coal range is the main one, have supplementary gas, electric or oil range. Gas range should have stove pipe from oven.
Sink—Sink should be large enough to accommodate both a washing and rinsing dish pan. Have large drain board on each side with raised edge or beading. It should either slope gradually toward sink or have sloping grooves. If only one drain board is provided, add an adjustable folding board. Bottom of sink should be at least 32 inches from floor. Sink should be placed under or near a window to insure coolness and view.
Cabinet—White or colored enameled metal or natural wood finish with broad working shelf 32 inches from floor or higher according to height of worker. Shelves and bins for most commonly used supplies and utensils. If a cabinet with a good work shelf is not available an additional table near cabinet should be provided.
Tables—One or two tables, porcelain, glass, enamel, or zinc topped. If none of these can be had, linoleum may be fitted with waterproof cement to a wooden table. It should be at least 32 inches high. A table with drawers underneath and a swinging stool and space for knees is good.
Cupboard—If there is no dining room pantry, a cupboard should be added for the china; if space permits, this should be added anyhow for less frequently used utensils and supplies.
Stool—Stool, preferably white, should be of right height to allow sitting at table, work-shelf or sink. Add a plain chair if space permits.
Refrigerator—A well insulated ice box, preferably white. Ice compartment should be at side or top. Straight easily cleaned drain pipe should attach to plumbing. If refrigerator is indoors a door for icing from the outside is desirable.
Towel Rods—Wood or nickel with space for four or five dish towels.
Hand Towel Rack—If only one person uses it, roller towel rack may be installed. Otherwise, paper toweling or individual hand towels hung on cup hooks near sink by loops on corners.
Wall Clock—Simple, with clear figures.
Housekeepers' Rest Corner—If space permits, a comfortable chair, footrest and small table for books and sewing should occupy a little-used portion of the room, to permit rest and recreation while waiting for food to cook.
Garbage Pail—Covered; with foot lever to raise cover without stooping; fireproof trash basket.
Arrangement of Equipment
Sink, cabinet with broad working shelf and dish cabinet (if dishes are washed in kitchen) should be as close together as possible without cramping passage room. Stove should be convenient to, but slightly away from, work shelf for hot weather. An ideal arrangement is china cupboard at right of sink, cabinet with broad work shelf at left of sink and, in a narrow kitchen, range on opposite wall from sink across narrowest part of room; if range is far from any broad working surface a table should be very near range. All kitchen equipment, except range, should be as near as possible to dining room door. If no dining room pantry with sink is provided, kitchen sink should be near dining room door. Range with supplementary range beside it should be so placed that full day light will light the oven. If stove is already installed in a dark place in exhibition house, move it into light, even though repiping and wiring may be required. Mirrors may be hung to throw additional light on range. If there is no good working shelf on cabinet, a table should be near cabinet for mixing food. There will then have to be a second table with a heat proof top near the stove unless stove is so near to cabinet that one table will serve both for mixing and setting hot utensils on. If possible, install a gas range, or an electric range if current is cheap enough to warrant. The range should, if possible, have an oven heat regulator. Where gas is unavailable and cost of electric current high, install a good oil stove with an oven. Refrigerator should be on porch or vestibule just outside kitchen door or should be in the kitchen near the back door away from the stove. If space permits, table next to refrigerator is a convenience. An out-icer is a convenience; in cold weather the ice compartment may be left empty and open for the air to cool the food.
Dish towel and hand towel racks should be as near as possible to sink, high enough to be out of the way. The dish towel rack should be on side towards window for drying and airing.
Wall clock should be within sight of stove without worker turning around. Garbage pail and trash basket should be under sink. Stove should be near chief working surface; either table or cabinet.
Decorations—Simple, easily washed curtains of gingham, striped calico or unbleached muslin with a colored tape border add to the attractiveness of the room. They should not obscure the light. If the windows are near working centers, curtains may be half length, that is, from top of window to center sash, and finished with a fringe.
Smaller up-to-date equipment, such as a fireless cooker, a pressure cooker, utensils, electric whippers, cutlery, strainers and so on, should also be installed. Further information is given in another bulletin.
The Kitchen as Laundry
If the Kitchen is also used as Laundry, laundry equipment should be away from cooking equipment if possible.Two Tubs—well-lighted, tops 34 inches, aWashing Machinerun by whatever power the locality affords, preferably electricity. Washing Machine may have direct connection with plumbing, or good pipe hose should be provided for draining and filling machine. Copper linedWash Boilerwith spigot for emptying.Zinc Topped Table—on rollers, same height as top of stove, for carrying wash-boiler between sink and stove.Ironing Board—If possible, board that folds into cupboard. Board should have its own support far enough in from ends to permit of putting garment over it.Clothes Basket—with Casters on Bottom.
Iron—Electric Iron, or if electricity is unavailable, gas iron. Electric or handManglefor ironing.
Have tubs, washing machine, ironing board and plug for electric iron grouped together.
The Equipment of the House
Having a house that is structurally sound, well planned and with adequate yard space, the next question is its equipment. Equipment has to do with the operation, with the house work. On the one hand this is more or less determined by the size and plan of the building, on the other by the furnishing and decoration. A well planned house makes house work lighter; and furnishing and decoration which add unnecessarily to the number of things which must be cleaned or cared for, or heavy pieces which must be moved, add to the labor of house work. Nevertheless, equipment occupies a clear outfield of its own that calls for separate discussion.
Heating
Central Heating—Central heating preferred. May be hot air, steam, hot water, or vapor. Insulate heater and pipes. Large furnace water pan, or radiator waterpans, desirable. Select heating system, using fuel most economical for your locality. Thermostat heat regulator installed in living room is desirable. Write placards describing why you selected this heating plant; why it is so well insulated; why large water pan or radiator water pans are important.
Supplementary Heat—Open fireplace, Franklin stove or gas logs desirable in living room for beauty and comfort in spring and fall.
Water Supply
Should have running hot and cold water. If city water not available, should be pumped by power rams. Hot water boiler may be attached to coal range with auxiliary gas or oil heater for summer. Where gas rate is low, gas may be used alone. Automatic gas hot water heaters very desirable.
Bathroom
Size—Should be large enough for tub, basin, toilet, clothes-hamper, stool, medicine cabinet and towel cabinet.
Floor—Should be most sanitary. Tile, stone or linoleums are the most sanitary. Small black and white pattern or light blue and white are good. A well-filled painted wood floor of battleship gray or colonial buff may be used.
Walls—Tile or plaster painted with two coats flat paint and one coat of enamel, or oil cloth wall covering. White, blue and cream are the best colors.
Ventilation—Window board should be in window to allow top and bottom ventilation. An additional separate ventilator is desirable.
Fixtures—Porcelain or enameled iron tub with hot and cold running water; shower with spray set at angle not to wet hair.
Basin—Porcelain or enamel with hot and cold water.Toilet—porcelain, white enameled seat desirable.Medicine Cabinetwith door and mirror over basin, shelves for shaving equipment, lotions, antiseptics, etc.Cupboardlarge enough to hold supply of towels, soap, toilet paper, and equipment for cleaning bathroom fixtures.
Clothes hamperunless chute to bin near wash tubs is provided. Hamper should have white smooth surface. Enameled metal or wood desirable.
Towel racks—A nickel or enameled wood rack for each member of family to keep towels separate.
Miscellaneous fixtures—Two nickel or enameled metal soap racks, one beside basin and one beside or hooked to tub. Tooth brush rack to hold tooth brushes well separated. Toilet paper basket or rack. Individual mugs or glasses for each member of family. Shelf of glass or wood covered with oil cloth over basin.
Stool—White enamel, preferably.Clothes hookson back of door, or clothes tree.Sash curtainsof white material, easy to launder.
Lavatory—It is well to have additional lavatory on ground floor to save steps. It should contain toilet, wash bowl, stool and fixtures for accessories. Should be as easy to clean and hygienic as bathroom.
Lighting
Electricity if possible. Bulbs in all rooms should be frosted or shaded.Hall—Electricity or lamp hung from center in form of lantern or cast iron bracket to hold at least one bulb or one lamp. If side lights are desired, fixtures of brass, cast iron, or enameled iron are effective.
Living Room—If possible, at least one baseboard plug, one center ceiling light or side brackets if desired. If room is large a center floor plug is desirable. Plugs permit lamps to be used without unnecessary cords showing. If wire must pass through rug, do not cut rug but push threads apart.
Dining Room—If a center light in shape of dome is used, hang low enough to avoid shining in eyes of those dining. A soft effect is gained by side brackets representing sconces. Wired metal or glass candlesticks on mantel and side-board, give pleasing effect. Floor plug near dining table for electrical table appliances.
Bedrooms—Fixtures should be placed in long wall space convenient to bureau or dressing table. Have plug near bed for lamp for reading in bed. If space permits, night light on table in upper hall is useful. All plugs and sockets should be of standard shape and size.
Cleaning
House should be easy to clean with hard smooth floors, with cracks well filled, and rugs rather than carpets. Rounded edges and corners of baseboards desirable, also simple baseboards. One flight of stairs is sufficient if located out of sight of living room. This saves labor of cleaning two flights. Two cleaning closets, one on ground floor and one on second floor, are labor savers. Have space for vacuum cleaner and for hanging all brushes, brooms and dusters, and a shelf above or at side for the cleaning compounds. Zinc or other fireproof lining to cupboard and ventilator desirable.
Storage Space—Attic with rows of shelves for storing boxes and small objects is desirable. Wooden chests, trunks, and a cedar lined chest or cupboard useful. Built-in closets or rows of inexpensive chests of drawers with space to pass between are good.
Storage Closets
Every bedroom should have clothes closet with hooks and a rod for hangers, a shelf for hats and a bottom shelf for shoes. A tall closet may have near ceiling an additional rod for hangers for less often used clothes, and long rod lifter to reach hangers. A cupboard for bed linen should be in upstairs hall or in a centrally located room. On ground floor coat closet is desirable; also tool cupboard or chest, large china cupboard, low enough for all china to be within reach. Cold closet with open wire screen cabinets in basement.
Pantry
If kitchen is well ventilated and stove has hood, pass pantry not necessary. It makes extra steps. If pass pantry is in house, only its narrowest dimension should divide kitchen from dining room. Partitions under sink for trays to stand; a narrow space for table leaves; a china cupboard with reachable shelves, and a sink and drainboards like those described for kitchen are desirable. Drawer on small shelf for cleaning compounds and brushes for cleaning silver, steel, brass and copper.
PREPARED BY THE DIVISION OF BUILDING AND HOUSING, DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE
1.—What You Buy and How to Buy It
In purchasing a home a misstep may be unfortunate, so get the best advice you can, and watch every step. First of all, what you buy is the site and the improvements on it. If a building and loan association, or bank, loans you money on the property, it has a direct financial interest in helping you guard yourself on certain points, such as making sure that there are no old mortgages, no unpaid back taxes, or bills for building materials, or other claims against the property.
Be certain your title is clear, or have it insured or guaranteed. Learn of any easements, such as the right of a telephone company to place its poles upon your lot.
If you make a purchase offer with a cash deposit, include a statement as to whether window shades, stoves, and other movable property are included. Risk from loss by fire or elements should be assumed by the owner until the title passes to you.
Your offer should be dependent on your obtaining a satisfactory loan to finance the proposition, and the ability of the owners to furnish papers to show a good marketable title, free from liens or encumbrances. In other words, do not bind yourself to the purchase until you are sure of what you are paying for, and that you can finance it.
You must be prepared to pay taxes on your property, and special assessments for installation of water, sewerage, electric light, gas or other public utilities, or street paving and sidewalks. Note what improvements are already made, and what additional ones you may have to pay for.
2.—How to Pay for Your Home
In buying a house and lot you must borrow what you cannot pay in cash. Remember that the more risks you assume, the fewer the lender will have to charge you for. Your promise to pay back what you borrow will be secured by a mortgage or trust on the property. A first mortgage loan on not over one-half or two-thirds of the value of a piece of property is a very safe investment, and the rates of interest should be low. The lender on a second mortgage takes more risk, and rates of interest and discounts are higher. If you agree to buy a home without the title passing to you at once, the seller takes less risk, and you may save money.
3.—Where to Get Loans
There are building and loan associations throughout the country, usually organized to serve the needs of people like yourself, who wish to finance a home. Their plan of weekly or monthly payments, both on principal and for interest, has proved sound from the experience of millions of people as an aid to systematic saving. Loans may often be obtained from savings banks, trust companies, state banks, individuals, and trustees for estates.
Obtaining money on a second mortgage is usually not so easy. Remember that when the owner of a house takes a second mortgage in payment he may plan to sell it for four-fifths or less of its face value, and that he probably charges you accordingly.
Above all, when you start to save for a home do not throw your money into glittering schemes that promise big dividends and the chance to borrow money at 3 per cent or less. The concerns behind such schemes cannot be trusted.
4.—How Much Can You Afford?
It is said that a man may own a home worth one and one-half to two and one-half times his annual income but the payments you make during the first few years after purchasing are what you should pay most attention to. Rent ordinarily requires from ten per cent, to twenty-five, or even more, of a family's annual income. In addition to what you ordinarily pay for rent, you can devote your customary savings, or more, to paying off the principal of loans on your home.
Following is an example: A man who earns $2,000 a year buys a house and lot costing $4,000. He has $1,000 cash to pay down on it, and obtains a loan of $3,000, or 75 per cent, of the value of the property, from a building and loan association.
Cost per year for a $4,000 house (not including depreciation)
Payments on $3,000 B. & L. Shares at1/2% a month or 6% a year (savings) $180.00 a yearInterest on $3,000 loan at 6% 180.00 " "Interest on $1,000 cash at $% 50.00 " "Taxes (vary locally) 75.00 " "Insurance 5.00 " "Upkeep at 1-1/2% 60.00 " "————$550.00
Of the total income of $2,000, the $550 represents 27-1/2% divided as follows: 18-1/2% for rent; 9% for savings. In about twelve years the loan is paid off, and the home owned free and clear.
Zoning and What it Means to the Home
By DR. JOHN M. GRIES
Zoning helps home owners by establishing residential districts from which garages, and business and factory buildings are excluded. Apartments or houses covering more than 30 or 40 per cent. of the area of a lot may be prohibited in some sections. This all means a better and fairer chance for each family to have a home with enough light and air, and healthful, decent surroundings, near to schools, playgrounds and transportation facilities.
It may be added that zoning, when wisely carried out, provides for grouping of neighborhood stores at convenient points, and for guided growth of business and industrial districts, in the directions best suited for them.
In the words of the Advisory Committee on Zoning appointed by SecretaryHoover:
"Zoning is the application of common sense and fairness to the public regulations governing the use of private real estate. It is a painstaking, honest effort to provide each district or neighborhood, as nearly as practicable, with just such protection and just such liberty as are sensible in that particular district. It avoids the error of trying to apply exactly the same building regulations to every part of a city or town regardless of whether it is a suburban residence section or a factory district, or a business and financial center.
"Zoning gives everyone who lives or does business in a community a chance for the reasonable enjoyment of his rights. At the same time it protects him from unreasonable injury by neighbors who would seek private gain at his expense.
"Zoning regulations differ in different districts according to the determined uses of the land for residence, business, or manufacturing, and according to the advisable heights and ground areas.
"But these differing regulations are the same for all districts of the same type. They treat all men alike."
But the benefits of zoning are not confined to safeguarding the home and its surroundings. It can reduce losses due to topsy-turvy growth of cities, and cut the cost of living. Every year millions of dollars are wasted in American cities from the scrapping of buildings in "blighted" districts. For instance, fine residential districts may be threatened by sporadic factories or junk yards, and owners may become panicky and sell at a sacrifice millions of dollars worth of valuable dwellings which will be left to stand practically idle. The public must pay for this loss in one way or another. Frequently money for street, sewers and other utilities need never be spent if it is known in advance that large factories are to occupy new developments. Industry and homes are both more efficient if kept generally separate, though separation need not mean great distances for workers to travel.
"How has zoning worked?" "What has it accomplished?" About 70 cities and towns have adopted zoning ordinances since 1916, and the idea has worked well. Reliable authorities declare that "the New York zoning regulations have prevented vast depreciation in many districts and effected savings in values amounting to millions of dollars in established sections." The highest class residential districts in New York, in which only 30 per cent of the lot area may be used for dwellings, have developed with much greater confidence, due to the knowledge that houses built would be safe from invasion by apartments or industry.
In St. Louis "it was found that residences tended to follow the residence districts, and did not even attempt to seek locations in industrial or unrestricted areas. Except commercial buildings which were built partly in commercial and partly in industrial districts, the development of St. Louis is said to be fitting itself very closely to the zoning plan.
"In New Jersey it has been found that the unzoned suburban town is at a distinct disadvantage as compared with the community protected by a zoning ordinance."
It is sometimes said that zoning is arbitrary and restricts the liberty of the individual to do as he wishes; but when zoning laws have been sensibly and comprehensively drawn, the courts have approved them as a reasonable exercise of the police power "for the public health, safety and general welfare."
Zoning should always be undertaken in close relation to a city plan. It is essentially a neighborly proposition, and there should be neighborhood meetings to explain it and gather suggestions.
The purpose of a zoning ordinance is to insure that growth, instead of taking place sporadically and wastefully, should go on in an orderly way in response to generally recognized needs, and with due notice to all concerned.
Zoning today is giving security and the sense of security to hundreds of thousands of families in America, in the enjoyment of happy homes amid the right kind of surroundings.
Is your city zoned?
End of Project Gutenberg's Better Homes in America, by Mrs. W. B. Meloney