Sliding Gunter

or "bugeye," as it is sometimes vulgarly called, has a great reputation for speed and sea-going qualities. When it cannot climb a wave it goes through it. This makes a wet boat in heavy weather, but when you travel at a high rate of speed you can endure a wet jacket with no complaint, especially when you feel that, in spite of the fast-sailing qualities of this boat, it is considered a particularly safe craft.

Fig. 167.—Plain sprit leg-of-mutton.

Another form of the sprit sail.

The construction of abuckeye(Fig. 162) has been evolved from the old dugout canoe of the Indians and the first white settlers. America was originally covered with vast forests of immense trees. Remnants of these forests still exist in a few localities. It was once possible to make a canoe of almost any dimensions desired, but now in the thickly settled regions big trees are scarce.

So the Chesapeake Bay boat-builders, while still adhering to the old dugout, have overcome the disadvantage of small logs by using more than one and bolting the pieces together. Masts and sails have been added, and since the increased proportions made it impracticable to drag such a craft on the beach when in port, anchors and cables are supplied. Two holes bored, one on each side of the stem, for the cables to run through, have given the boat the appearance of having eyes, and as the eyes are large and round, the negroes called them buckeyes, and this is now the name by which all such craft are known.

At first only two masts with leg-of-mutton sails were used, but now they have a jib and two sails. With the greatest width or beam about one-third the distance from bow to stern, sharp at both ends, its long, narrow, and heavy hull is easily driven through the water and makes both a fast and stiff boat.

The buckeye travels in shallow as well as deep waters, and hence is a centreboard boat, but there is nothing unnecessary on the real buckeye—no overhanging bow or stern, for that means additional labor; no stays to the masts, for the same reason. The lack of stays to stiffen the masts leaves them with "springiness," which in case of a sudden squall helps to spill the wind and prevents what might otherwise be a "knock-down."

Fig. 170.—Lug rig with jigger.

The foremast is longer than the mainmast and does not rake aft so much, but the mainmast has a decided rake, which the colored sailors say makes the boat faster on the wind. Sometimes in the smaller boats the mainmast can be set upright when going before the wind.

Fig. 171.—Lug rig with jigger and jib.

Fig. 172.—Jib.

Wealthy gentlemen on the Chesapeake are now building regularly equipped yachts on the buckeye plan, and some of them are quite large boats. A correspondent of theForest and Stream, in speaking of the buckeye, says:

"Last summer I cruised in company with a buckeye, forty-two feet long, manned by two gentlemen of Baltimore city. She drew twenty inches without the board. In sudden and heavy flaws she was rarely luffed. She would lie over and appear to spill the windout of her tall, sharp sails and then right again. Her crew took pleasure in tackling every sailing craft for a race; nothing under seventy feet in length ever beat her. She steered under any two of her three sails. On one occasion this craft, on her way from Cape May to Cape Charles, was driven out to sea before a heavy north-west blow. Her crew, the aforesaid gentlemen, worn out by fatigue, hove her to and went to sleep. She broke her tiller lashing during the night, and when they awoke she was pegging away on a south-east course under her jib. They put her about, and in twenty hours were inside Cape Henry, pretty well tired out. Buckeyes frequently run from Norfolk to New York with fruit. For shallow waters, I am satisfied there is no better craft afloat. Built deep, with a loaded keel, they would rival the English cutter in seaworthiness and speed."

Fig. 173.—Sprit sail, schooner rig, with dandy.

When the hardy, bold fishermen of our Eastern States and the brave fishermen down South both use the leg-of-mutton sail, beginners cannot object to using it while practising; knowing that even if it is a safe sail, it cannot be called a "baby rig." Another safe rig, differing little from the leg-of-mutton, is the

In this rig the sail is laced to a yard which slides up or down the mast by means of two iron hooks or travellers (Fig. 163). No sail with a narrow-pointed top is very serviceable before the wind, and the sliding gunter is no exception to the rule. But it is useful on the wind, and can be reefed easily and quickly, qualities which make it many friends.

In the smooth, shallow waters along the coast of North Carolina may be seen the long, flat-bottomed

Without question they are to be ranked among the fastest boats we have. These boats are rigged with a modification of the leg-of-mutton sail. The ends of the sprit in the foresail project at the luff and leach. At the luff it is fastened to the mast by a line like a snotter at the leach. It is fastened to a stick sewed into the sail, called a club. The sheet is attached to the end of the sprit (Figs. 164-168).

Fig. 174.—Sprit sail jib and dandy.

has this advantage, that the clew of the sail is much higher than the tack, thus avoiding the danger of dipping the clew in the water and tripping the boat.

Fig. 175.—The lateen rig with dandy.

is named after the small sail aft, near the rudder-head. This jigger, mizzen, or dandy may have a boom, a sprit, or be rigged as a lug. (SeeFigs. 170,171,173,174,175,178,180, and184, which show the principal mizzen rigs in use.)

drawings of shipsFigs. 176-184.—Hybrid rigs for small boats; also two useful tackles.

Figs. 176-184.—Hybrid rigs for small boats; also two useful tackles.

[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this image, clickhere.]

In puffy wind and lumpy water the main and mizzen rig will be found to work well. The little sail aft should be trimmed as flat as possible. It will be found of great help in beating to the windward, and will keep the nose of the boat facing the windwhen the mainsail is down. Different rigs are popular in different localities. For instance:

is very popular in some parts of the Old World, yet it has only few friends here. It may be because of my art training that I feel so kindly toward this style of sail, or it may be from association in my mind of some of the happiest days of my life with a little black canoe rigged with lateen sails. At any rate, in spite of the undeniable fact that the lateen is unpopular, I never see a small boat rigged in this style without a feeling of pleasure. The handy little stumps of masts end in a spike at the top and are adorned by the beautiful sails lashed to slender spars, which, by means of metal rings, are lightly, but securely, fastened to the mast by simply hooking the ring over the spike. I freely acknowledge that when the sails are lowered and you want to use your paddle the lateen sails are in your way. It is claimed that they are awkward to reef, and this may be true. I never tried it. When the wind was too strong for my sails I made port or took in either the large or the small sail, as the occasion seemed to demand.

When you are out sailing and see a vessel with three masts, all square rigged, you are looking at a ship proper, though ship is a word often used loosely for any sort of a boat (Fig. 159).

The barkis a vessel with square-rigged foremast and mainmast and a fore-and-aft rigged mizzen-mast (Fig. 160).

The brigis a vessel with only two masts, both of which are square rigged (Fig. 158).

The brigantinehas two masts—foremast square rigged and mainmast fore-and-aft rigged (Fig. 155).

The barkentinehas three masts—mainmast and mizzen-mast fore-and-aft rigged and foremast square rigged. (SeeFig. 154.)

How to Tie Knots Useful on Both Land and Water

Theart of tying knots is an almost necessary adjunct to not a few recreations. Especially is this true of summer sports, many of which are nautical or in some manner connected with the water.

Any boy who has been aboard a yacht or a sail-boat must have realized that the safety of the vessel and all aboard may be imperilled by ignorance or negligence in the tying of a knot or fastening of a rope.

With some the knack of tying a good, strong knot in a heavy rope or light cord seems to be a natural gift; it is certainly a very convenient accomplishment, and one that with practice and a little perseverance may be acquired even by those who at first make the most awkward and bungling attempts.

A bulky, cumbersome knot is not only ungainly, but is generally insecure.

As a rule, the strength of a knot is in direct proportion to its neat and handsome appearance.

To my mind it is as necessary that the archer should know how to make the proper loops at the end of his bow-string as it is that a hunter should understand how to load his gun.

Every fisherman should be able to join two lines neatly and securely, and should know the best and most expeditious method of attaching an extra hook or fly; and any boy who rigs up a hammock or swing with a "granny" or other insecure knot deserves the ugly tumble and sore bones that are more than liable to result from his ignorance.

A knot, nautically speaking, is a "bend" that is more permanent than a "hitch." A knot properly tied never slips, nor does it jam so that it cannot be readily untied. A "hitch" might be termed a temporary bend, as it is seldom relied upon for permanent service. The "hitch" is so made that it can be cast off or unfastened more quickly than a knot.

It is impossible for the brightest boy to learn to make "knots, bends, and hitches" by simply reading over a description of the methods; for, although he may understand them at the time, five minutes after reading the article the process will have escaped his memory. But if he take a piece of cord or rope and sit down with the diagrams in front of him, he will find little difficulty in managing the most complicated knots; and he will not only acquire an accomplishment from which he can derive infinite amusement for himself and a means of entertainment for others, but the knowledge gained may, in case of accident by fire or flood, be the means of saving both life and property.

The accompanying diagrams show a number of useful and important bends, splices, etc. To simplify matters, let us commence withFig. 57, and go through the diagrams in the order in which they come:

The "English" or "common single fisherman's knot" (Fig. 185, I) is neat and strong enough for any ordinary strain. The diagram shows the knots before being tightened and drawn together.

When exceptional strength is required it can be obtained by joining the lines in the ordinary single fisherman's knot (Fig. 185, I) and pulling each of the half knots as tight as possible, then drawing them within an eighth of an inch of each other and wrapping between with fine gut that has been previously softened in water, or with light-colored silk.

An additional line or a sinker may be attached by tying a knot in the end of the extra line and inserting it between the parts of the single fisherman's knot before they are drawn together and tightened.

Fig. 185.—Some useful knots.

The "fisherman's double half knot,"Fig. 185(II and III). After the gut has been passed around the main line and through itself, it is passed around the line once more and through the same loop again and drawn close.

Fig. 185(IV, V, and IX). Here are three methods of joining the ends of two lines together; the diagrams explain them much better than words can. Take a piece of string, try each one, and test their relative strength.

Fig. 185(VI). It often happens, while fishing, that a hook is caught in a snag or by some other means lost. The diagram shows the most expeditious manner of attaching another hook by what is known as the "sinker hitch," described further on (Fig. 185, D, D, D, andFig. 186, XIV, XV, and XVI).

Fig. 185, VII is another and more secure method of attaching a hook by knitting the line on with a succession of half-hitches.

The same hitches are used in the manufacture of horse-hair watch-guards, much in vogue with the boys in some sections of the country. As regularly as "kite-time," "top-time," or "ball-time," comes "horse-hair watch-guard time."

About once a year the rage for making watch-guards used to seize the boys of our school, and by some means or other almost every boy would have a supply of horse-hair on hand. With the first tap of the bell for recess, some fifty hands would dive into the mysterious depths of about fifty pockets, and before the bell had stopped ringing about fifty watch-guards, in a more or less incomplete state, would be produced.

Whenever a teamster's unlucky stars caused him to stop near the school-house, a chorus of voices greeted him with "Mister, please let us have some hair from your horses' tails."

The request was at first seldom refused, possibly because its nature was not at the time properly understood; but lucky was the boy considered who succeeded in pulling a supply of hair from the horses' tails without being interrupted by the heels of the animals or by the teamster, who, when he saw the swarm of boys tugging at his horses' tails, generally repented his first good-natured assent, and with a gruff, "Get out, you young rascals!" sent the lads scampering to the school-yard fence.

Select a lot of long hair of the color desired; make it into a switch about an eighth of an inch thick by tying one end in a simple knot. Pick out a good, long hair and tie it around the switch close to the knotted end; then take the free end of the single hair in your right hand and pass it under the switch on one side, thus forming a loop through which the end of the hair must pass after it is brought up and over from the other side of the switch. Draw the knot tight by pulling the free end of the hair as shown byFig. 185, VII. Every time this operation is repeated a wrap and a knot is produced. The knots follow each other in a spiral around the switch, giving it a very pretty, ornamented appearance. When one hair is used up select another and commence knitting with it as you did with the first, being careful to cover and conceal the short end of the first hair, and to make the knots on the second commence where the former stop. A guard made of white horse-hair looks as if it might be composed of spun glass, and produces a very odd and pretty effect. A black one is very genteel in appearance. These ornaments are much prized by cowboys, and I have seen bridles for horses made of braided horsehair.

Fig. 185, VIII shows a simple and expeditous manner of attaching a trolling-hook to a fish-line.

Fig. 185, F is a hitch used on shipboard, or wherever lines and cables are used. It is called the Blackwall hitch.

Fig. 185, E is a fire-escape made of a double bow-line knot, useful as a sling for hoisting persons up or letting them down from any high place; the window of a burning building, for instance.Fig. 186, XVIII, XIX, and XX show how this knot is made. It is described onpage 77.

Fig. 185, A is a "bale hitch," made of a loop of rope. To make it, take a piece of rope that has its two ends joined; lay the rope down and place the bale on it; bring the loop opposite you up, on that side of the bale, and the loop in front up, on the side of thebale next to you; thrust the latter loop under and through the first and attach the hoisting rope. The heavier the object to be lifted, the tighter the hitch becomes. An excellent substitute for a shawl-strap can be made of a cord by using the bale hitch, the loop at the top being a first-rate handle.

Fig. 185, B is called a cask sling, and C (Fig. 185) is called a butt sling. The manner of making these last two and their uses may be seen by referring to the illustration. It will be noticed that a line is attached to the bale hitch in a peculiar manner (a,Fig. 185). This is called the "anchor bend." If while aboard a sail-boat you have occasion to throw a bucket over for water, you will find the anchor bend a very convenient and safe way to attach a line to the bucket handle, but unless you are an expert you will need an anchor hitched to your body or you will follow the bucket.

Fig. 186, I and II are loops showing the elements of the simplest knots.

Fig. 186, III is a simple knot commenced.

Fig. 186, IV shows the simple knot tightened.

Fig. 186, V and VI show how the Flemish knot looks when commenced and finished.

Fig. 186, VII and VIII show a "rope knot" commenced and finished.

Fig. 186, IX is a double knot commenced.

Fig. 186, X is the same completed.

Fig. 186, XI shows a back view of the double knot.

Fig. 186, XII is the first loop of a "bow-line knot." One end of the line is supposed to be made fast to some object. After the turn, or loop (Fig. 186, XII), is made, hold it in position with your left hand and pass the end of the line up through the loop, or turn, you have just made, behind and over the line above, then down through the loop again, as shown in the diagram (Fig. 186, XIII); pull it tight and the knot is complete. The "sinker hitch" is a very handy one to know, and the variety of uses it may be put to will be at once suggested by the diagrams.

drawings of knotsFig. 186.

Fig. 186.

Lines that have both ends made fast may have weights attached to them by means of the sinker hitch (Fig. 185, D, D, D).

To accomplish this, first gather up some slack and make it in the form of the loop (Fig. 186, XIV); bend the loop back on itself (Fig. 186, XV) and slip the weight through the double loop thus formed (Fig. 186, XVI); draw tight by pulling the two top lines, and the sinker hitch is finished (Fig. 186, XVII).

The "fire-escape sling" previously mentioned, and illustrated byFig. 185, E, is made with a double line.

Proceed at first as you would to make a simple bow-line knot (Fig. 186, XVIII).

After you have run the end loop up through the turn (Fig. 186, XIX), bend it downward and over the bottom loop and turn, then up again until it is in the position shown inFig. 186, XX; pull it downward until the knot is tightened, as inFig. 185, E, and it makes a safe sling in which to lower a person from any height. The longer loop serves for a seat, and the shorter one, coming under the arms, makes a rest for the back.

Fig. 186½, XXI is called a "boat knot," and is made with the aid of a stick. It is an excellent knot for holding weights which may want instant detachment. To detach it, lift the weight slightly and push out the stick, and instantly the knot is untied.

Fig. 186½, XXII. Commencement of a "six-fold knot."

Fig. 186½, XXIII. Six-fold knot completed by drawing the two ends with equal force. A knot drawn in this manner is said to be "nipped."

Fig. 186½, XXIV. A simple hitch or "double" used in making loop knots.

Fig. 186½, XXV. "Loop knot."

Fig. 186½, XXVI shows how the loop knot is commenced.

Fig. 186½, XXVII is the "Dutch double knot," sometimes called the "Flemish loop."

Fig. 186½, XXVIII shows a common "running knot."

Fig. 186½, XXIX. A running knot with a check knot to hold.

Fig. 186½, XXX. A running knot checked.

Fig. 186½.

Fig. 186½, XXXI. The right-hand part of the rope shows how to make the double loop for the "twist knot." The left-hand part of the same rope shows a finished twist knot. It is made by taking a half turn on both the right-hand and left-hand lines of the double loop and passing the end through the "bight" (loop) so made.

Fig. 186½, XXXII is called the "chain knot," which is often used in braiding leather whiplashes. To make a "chain knot," fasten one end of the thong, or line; make a simple loop and pass it over the left hand; retain hold of the free end with the right hand; with the left hand seize the line above the right hand and draw a loop through the loop already formed; finish the knot by drawing it tight with the left hand. Repeat the operation until the braid is of the required length, then secure it by passing the free end through the last loop.

Fig. 186½, XXXIII shows a double chain knot.

Fig. 186½, XXXIV is a double chain knot pulled out. It shows how the free end is thrust through the last loop.

Fig. 186½, XXXV. Knotted loop for end of rope, used to prevent the end of the rope from slipping, and for various other purposes.

Although splices may not be as useful to boys as knots and hitches, for the benefit of those among my readers who are interested in the subject, I have introduced a few bands and splices on the cables partly surroundingFig. 186½.

Fig. 186½,ashows the knot and upper side of a "simple band."

Fig. 186½,bshows under side of the same.

Fig. 186½,canddshow a tie with cross-ends. To hold the ends of the cords, a turn is taken under the strands.

Fig. 187.

Fig. 186½,eandf: Bend with cross-strands, one end looped over the other.

Fig. 186½,gshows the upper side of the "necklace tie."

Fig. 186½,hshows the under side of the same. The advantage of this tie is that the greater the strain on the cords, the tighter it draws the knot.

Fig. 186½,iandjare slight modifications ofgandh.

Fig. 186½,pshows the first position of the end of the ropes for making the splicek. Untwist the strands and put the ends of two ropes together as close as possible, and place the strands of the one between the strands of the other alternately, so as to interlace, as ink. This splice should only be used when there is not time to make the "long splice," as the short one is not very strong.

Fromltomis a long splice, made by underlaying the strands of each of the ropes joined about half the length of the splice, and putting each strand of the one between two of the other;qshows the strands arranged for the long splice.

Fig. 186½nis a simple mode of making a hitch on a rope.

Fig. 186½,ois a "shroud knot."

Fig. 186½,rshows a very convenient way to make a handle on a rope, and is used upon large ropes when it is necessary for several persons to take hold to pull.

Fig. 187, A. Combination of half-hitch and timber-hitch.

Fig. 187, B. Ordinary half-hitch.

Fig. 187, C. Ordinary timber-hitch.

Fig. 187, D. Another timber-hitch, called the "clove-hitch."

Fig. 187, E. "Hammock-hitch," used for binding bales of goods or cloth.

Fig. 187, F. "Lark-head knot," used by sailors and boatmen for mooring their crafts.

Fig. 187, P shows a lark-head fastening to a running knot.

Fig. 187, G is a double-looped lark-head.

Fig. 187, H shows a double-looped lark-head knot fastened to the ring of a boat.

Fig. 187½.—Timber-hitches, etc.

Fig. 187, I is a "treble lark-head." To make it you must firsttie a single lark-head, then divide the two heads and use each singly, as shown in the diagram.

Fig. 187, J shows a simple boat knot with one turn.

Fig. 187, K. "Crossed running knot." It is a strong and handy tie, not as difficult to make as it appears to be.

Fig. 187, L is the bow-line knot, described by the diagrams XII and XIII (Fig. 186). The free end of the knot is made fast by binding it to the "bight," or the loop. It makes a secure sling for a man to sit in at his work among the rigging.

Fig. 187, M, N, and O. "Slip clinches," or "sailors' knots."

Fig. 187½, Q shows a rope fastened by the chain-hitch. The knot at the left-hand end explains a simple way to prevent a rope from unravelling.

Fig. 187½, R. A timber-hitch; when tightened the line binds around the timber so that it will not slip.

Fig. 187½, S. Commencement of simple lashing knot.

Fig. 187½, T. Simple lashing knot finished.

Fig. 187½, U. "Infallible loop;" not properly a timber-hitch, but useful in a variety of ways, and well adapted for use in archery.

Fig. 187½, V. Same as R, reversed. It looks like it might give way under a heavy strain, but it will not.

Fig. 187½, W. Running knot with two ends.

Fig. 187½, X. Running knot with a check knot that can only be opened with a marline-spike.

Fig. 187½, Y. A two-ended running knot with a check to the running loops. This knot can be untied by drawing both ends of the cord.

Fig. 187½, Z. Running knot with two ends, fixed by a double Flemish knot. When you wish to encircle a timber with this tie, pass the ends on which the check knot is to be through the cords before they are drawn tight. This will require considerable practice.

Fig. 187½,ashows an ordinary twist knot.

Fig. 187½,a1shows the form of loop for builder's knot.

Fig. 187½,b. Double twist knot.

Fig. 187½,c. Builder's knot finished.

Fig. 187½,drepresents a double builder's knot.

Fig. 187½,e. "Weaver's knot," same as described under the head of Becket hitch (Fig. 185, V).

Fig. 187½,f. Weaver's knot drawn tight.

Fig. 187½,gshows how to commence a reef knot. This is useful for small ropes; with ropes unequal in size the knot is likely to draw out of shape, asm.

Fig. 187½,hshows a reef knot completed.

Of all knots, avoid the "granny"; it is next to useless under a strain, and marks the tier as a "landlubber."

Fig. 187½,ishows a granny knot;nshows a granny under strain.

Fig. 187½,jshows the commencement of a common "rough knot."

Fig. 187½,k. The front view of finished knot.

Fig. 187½,l. The back view of finished knot. Although this knot will not untie nor slip, the rope is likely to part at one side if the strain is great. Awkward as it looks, this tie is very useful at times on account of the rapidity with which it can be made.

Fig. 187½,oandp. Knot commenced and finished, used for the same purposes as the Flemish knot.

Fig. 187½,qandq1. An ordinary knot with ends used separately.

Fig. 187½,s. Sheep-shank, or dog-shank as it is sometimes called, is very useful in shortening a line. Suppose, for instance, a swing is much longer than necessary, and you wish to shorten it without climbing aloft to do so, it can be done with a sheep-shank.

Fig. 187½,rshows the first position of the two loops. Take two half hitches, and you have a bend of the form shown bys. Pull tightly from above and below the shank, and you will find that the rope is shortened securely enough for ordinary strain.

Fig. 187½,t. Shortening by loop and turns made where the end of the rope is free.

Fig. 187½,u. A shortened knot that can be used when either end is free.

Fig. 187½,v,w, andx. Shortening knots.

Fig. 187½,yandz. A "true lover's knot," and the last one that you need to practise on, for one of these knots is as much as most persons can attend to, and ought to last a lifetime.

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