Problem VI
Problem VI
FOLDING CHECKERBOARD[3]
Time: 6 hours.Materials: Newsboard, vellum, squared paper.
This checkerboard (Plate XXI) is planned with squares ¾†in size, and of these there should be 8 on each side alternating dark and light. By making a foundation 7½†square, it gives a margin of ¾†on all sides, resulting not only in a satisfactory appearance, but providing a place for extra checkers. This board folds through the center and is small enough to be easily carried in the pocket. The illustration is intended to show the construction to the teacher. Such a drawing should not be attempted by the pupils whose efforts should be confined to simple sketches of the necessary pieces as in the other problems.
Cut two pieces of newsboard 3â…†strong × 7½â€, and a piece of vellum about 9†square. It will be observed that the width of the newsboard is less than half the length in order to allow a space between the two pieces of newsboard without which the completed board would not close.
On the back side of the piece of vellum mark off in heavy lines the positions of the two pieces of newsboard and allow ¼†or ³â„â‚₆†space between them. Paste the newsboard to the vellum as already described, cut the corners and paste the edges. A strip of vellum 2†× 7†should be pasted to cover the space between the two pieces of newsboard and extend well onto them.
[3]From “War Time Occupations.â€
[3]From “War Time Occupations.â€
Plate XXI
Plate XXI
The paper used for lining may be prepared in one of several ways, either by machine or by hand, and may be in one piece or two. The former is less likely to be confusing. The easiest and quickest method is to have the squares printed in dark ink on white or light gray paper of good quality, and fairly tough. The use of linoleum is suggested as one method of printing squares, or a line plate may be made, the squares printed from it and finished linings for the checkerboards furnished to those who are makingthem. The light squares may be left as they are or may be colored with water color, crayon, or oils. All the outside squares should be lined in, either when printed or afterward by hand. A border line about ¼†outside the squares adds very much to the general appearance.
If all the markings and coloring must be done by hand, paper commercially ruled into ¼†squares is recommended. This secures accuracy, and saves much tiresome ruling. Three such spaces on each side form a ¾ inch square and when the checkerboard is laid off by small dots on outside lines, proceed to color alternate squares by one of the following methods:
A. With soft pencil darken alternate squares leaving others of the original color. Begin with the upper row, and take successive rows downward. Across the paper lay a rule just below the lower edge of the squares to be darkened. With the pencil make vertical strokes only, using the side of the pencil to give an even surface free from ridges. Be careful with the lines at the right and left edges that they do not extend into the adjoining space. The edge of the rule will stop the strokes at the right place at the bottom and they should not extend quite to the top as this can be adjusted later. When all rows are finished, turn paper around so that what was top is now bottom, and complete squares by the same method.
B. Instead of pencil, colored crayons may be used in the same manner as already described.
C. Crayons of two colors may be used in alternate squares, or one color and a black pencil. Orange and black or red and black are pleasing combinations.
D. Ink or water may be applied with a brush.
When completed place the “board†so that a dark square is in the upper left and lower right corners respectively, and cut open vertically, removing about ¼†fromthe center two halves. If no space is left, the paper soon cracks in folding; if too little space is left, the edges soon turn and later become â€dog-eared“; if too much is left, it is confusing to the players, as theoretically there should be no space at all. Paste these pieces to each half of the cover, placing them about ¼†apart, and dry flat under weight.
When thoroughly dry, the inner surface should be varnished with shellac or valspar to give stability to the color. Otherwise, it soon becomes rubbed and the appearance, if not the utility, of the board is spoiled. One coat is sufficient to hold the color, but if a polished surface is desired two are needed.
The question of coating the outside with shellac or other polish is an open one, and may be decided to suit the individual taste.
It is sometimes desirable to show that an article is the product of the schoolroom, and in this case a neatly printed label with a space for the pupil’s name, etc., may be pasted to the outside.
If larger boards are desired make the squares one inch in size leaving ¾†margin. The foundation consists of two pieces of newsboard, each 4â…†× 9½†and the vellum for covering should be 11½†square. The process of assembling is like that used in the small board.
Checkers
I. Dowels. Checkers may be made from dowels â…†or ¾†for small checkerboards and ⅞†or 1†for the larger boards. Broom handles, etc., may be used as substitutes for the dowels.
The checkers should be of a uniform thickness, and this is best secured by using a combination mitre-box, saw, and gauge. If this is not available, any other means may be employed to saw the dowels into disks ⅛†or ³â„â‚₆†in thickness.
Lay a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the checkers on this to remove saw marks. Two grades of sandpaper give a better finish than one.
To play the game, it is necessary that there should be two colors of checkers. Some woods present sufficient difference in their natural colors to serve this purpose, but it is generally better that one set at least should be artificially colored. For this, use stain or ink. Place some of the fluid in a shallow dish, and drop the checkers into it. Remove at once with nippers or two sticks, and lay on a paper to dry.
Most stains will stand some water, but common ink would wash out if rained on. So to preserve the color, checkers dyed with ink should afterward be dropped into a thin shellac and taken out and dried. Those of natural color should also be shellaced as they keep clean much longer. After the shellac is dry, there is a little roughness on the surface. If this is rubbed off with fine sandpaper the checkers are much more agreeable to handle. Twelve checkers of each color are needed for a set but three or four extra ones may be added. Put these in a strong bag securely tied.
II. Button Molds. Instead of using dowels, as just described, wooden button molds may be colored and used.
III. Buttons. Two contrasting colors of flat buttons make excellent checkers.