Problem XV
Problem XV
SEWING A BOOK ON A FRAME
Time and Materials: As for Problem X, except bookbinder’s twine is tobe used instead of tape.
To carry out this problem a few common wood-working tools will be necessary. A sewing frame may be made by older pupils, a working drawing for which is here given. (See Plate LV.)
The wooden upright screws may be purchased. Instead of tapes the book is to be sewed on bookbinder’s twine. Cut three pieces 6 inches longer than the distance between the upper and lower bars. Tie one end of each securely to the upper bar and slide them along to position. (See Plate LVI.) Tie the other ends to the lower bar, pulling them as taut as possible.
The signatures should be “jogged up” and carefully placed in a vise, back up and extending above the jaws about half an inch. It may be better (depending on the shape and size of the vise) to place the signatures between two boards, and then the whole in the vise. On the back of one signature mark off the position of the “kettle stitches” and twine 5 points in all—and, if T-square, try square or triangle are available, square lines across; otherwise lay off these points on both outside signatures and thus insure cuts which shall be “square across” the back. At each point saw across all signatures with a back saw, making a cut about ⅛ of an inch deep. Hold the saw perfectly horizontally, that the cuts may be of uniform depth on all signatures. If vise and saw are not available, V-cuts may be made on each signature with scissors instead.
Plate LV.Working drawing of sewing-frame.
Plate LV.Working drawing of sewing-frame.
To sew a printed book, begin at the front with the “head” toward the right. Place the first signature on theframe (page 1 down), with the back toward the operator and the three inside cuts against the twine, leaving the cuts at the ends for the “kettle stitches.” If necessary, move the pieces of twine along the bars so that they exactly fit the cuts and sink into them. (See Plate LVI). Tighten the twine by turning the wooden nuts and commence to sew. Hold the signature open with the left hand, and, commencing at the head, (right) insert the needle from the outside through the first hole. Bring the thread out through the second hole on the right of the twine, cross it, and return the thread through the same hole on the left of the twine. It will be seen that this process is virtually the same as sewing over tapes. Continue across the first signature and, when completed, close it, lay the second signature on top, and, in the same manner, sew across it from left to right. Pull the sewingthreads tightly and always forward in the direction of the sewing. If they are pulled backward, the paper will be torn.
Plate LVI.A sewing-frame in use.
Plate LVI.A sewing-frame in use.
After sewing across the second signature, tie the thread to the loose end as in a book sewed on tapes. When the third signature has been sewed, make loop stitch as already illustrated, (forming a part of the “kettle stitch”) and repeat this stitch at the end of each signature. When the sewing is finished, grasp the book firmly and slide it up on the cords about 1½ inches; then cut the twine from the frame, leaving about 1¼ inches projecting beyond the book on both sides. Pull the twine with both hands to straighten it. Put in fly-leaves and “super” and bind as before. The ends of the twine should be frayed out, and, after the fly-leaves are in, pasted in fan-shape to the outside leaf. Put on the case as shown in Problem XIV.
Additional Points
(A). The binding may be made stronger by “whip-stitching” the fly-leaves after they are pasted in. For this purpose, take an ordinary sewing needle (about No. 2) and linen thread (No. 35). Begin at the right and, with “over-and-over” stitches about ¼ of an inch apart, sew through the outside signature and the fly-leaves. A knot should be made at each end to fasten the threads. Turn the book over and repeat the operation on the opposite side.
(B). If heavy paper is used for the fly-leaves, the outside leaf should be torn or cut off carefully before putting on the case. Leave just a narrow margin at the fold to hold the other half from coming out. This being done, there is but one thickness with which to line the cover, but two free leaves are left as before.
(C). Head-bands may be used on a book sewed on a frame. Cut pieces to fit across the back of the book and paste one at each end after the “super” has been pasted on.
(D). Any book is made more attractive by using colored “end papers” or fly-leaves. These may be of the same material as the cover or of contrasting material. A small surface pattern worked out in crayon or water color for this purpose makes an excellent problem in applied design and at the same time adds much to the appearance of the book. When using any paper for fly-leaves which has a right and wrong side, the sheets should be folded wrong side out. Note that only two folios of colored paper should be used while the other two are white—that is at each end of the “book” there will be one white folio with a colored one inside it. When stacking the sheets to apply the paste, place a colored sheet at the bottom, then a white sheet, then a colored sheet, and a white sheet on top. When pasting these to the book, this brings a white sheet first and a colored sheet inside, so that when pasted to the “case” one-half forms its lining and the other half is free.