Chapter 2

Figure 21.â€”Ridge treatments.

PARTITIONS

If the log building is to be divided into several rooms, at least two different methods may be used to construct the partition walls. If the log construction plan is to be carried throughout the structureby using interior log-wall partitions, these should be laid out and framed in, and the door openings cut in the same manner as previously described for exterior walls. If a log partition comes at a place in a cross wall where it is not considered desirable to have the log ends project into the room beyond the opposite face of the wall, they may be sawed off flush with the face of the cross wall, as shown atX,figure 22, PlanA. This will not weaken the joint since the logs are both pinned and locked in place.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 22.â€”Interior partitions.

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Figure 22.â€”Interior partitions.

Where frame partitions are used, they should be constructed as in a frame building. A gain or a 3- to 4-inch deep groove should be cut in the log wall into which the end studding of the frame partition is to be set (fig. 22, PlanB). The cut should be made in each log before it is placed in the wall. In no case should the studding at the ends of the partitions be nailed to the log walls which they intersect in order not to interfere with or be affected by their shrinkage and settlement.

FLOORING

A subfloor should be laid first using shiplap or sheathing. Over this a finished floor of such hardwoods as maple or oak, or the harder softwood species such as Douglas-fir, western larch, or southern pine, may be laid. Vertical grain and flat grain may be had in both softwood and hardwood, but the vertical grain shrinks and swells less than the flat, is more uniform in texture, wears more evenly, and the joints open much less. Finished flooring consists or tongue-and-groove material of various thicknesses and widths.

Despite a slight tendency to splinter and wear irregularly over a period of years, plain wide planking of random-width boards makes an appropriate floor for a log building. An attractive effect may be had by using screws instead of nails, countersunk to a depth of Â½ inch and concealed by inserting false wooden dowels glued inplace as shown infigure 23,B. Keying the boards together with wood keys, at random along the edges, adds to the attractiveness of the flooring.

Figure 23.â€”Flooring.A, Plain tongue and groove;B, random-width planking.

INTERIOR WOOD FINISHING

Hanging doors and windows, and many other customary details of building construction should be done in the usual manner in building with logs. Whenever cupboards or other built-in units are constructed, they must be framed to be independent or entirely free of the log walls, like the furniture. However, such fixtures as lavatories may be attached to two adjacent logs without any subsequent structural complications.

CALKING

When round logs are laid up in a wall there is always an opening between them unless they are grooved on the under side to saddle the one below, as described later under chinkless log cabin construction. In exterior walls, this opening, or crack, must be closed in order to make the structure weathertight. There are several methods of doing this. If the logs are reasonably straight and uniform in size and the corners carefully made, the opening between them will be small, often barely perceptible. When this is the case, the openingsshould be filled with some sort of calking compound applied with either a pressure gun or a trowel (fig. 24).

Figure 24.â€”Examples of tight joints well calked.A, Interior calking;B, exterior calking.

In recent years several kinds of calking material have been put on the market. They are applied best with a gun having a pressure-release trigger whereby the calking compound is forced through a nozzle made in various shapes and sizes to meet different requirements. These calking compounds are not adversely affected by heat or cold, retain their natural flexibility, and have an adhesive property which causes them to adhere to the surface to which they are applied.

A good plastic compound will adhere to the logs under all conditions and can be patched easily by simply applying more material. A black fiber seal is not objectionable and, at the same time, gives a practical finish. The seal should be applied to both sides of the exterior and interior log walls, producing an almost hermetically sealed building. When applied with a pressure gun having a â…œ-inch nozzle, 1 gallon will fill about 300 linear feet of opening. If applied in cold weather, the material should be heated to a temperature of 60Â°F.

CHINKING

When using logs that are somewhat rough and irregular in shape, the resulting space between them may be so large that the calking material cannot be used satisfactorily to fill the opening. In such cases, it will be necessary to insert â€œchinking,â€ which usually is applied to the interior and exterior walls in one of two ways:

1.Split chinking.â€”Segments of a log are split out in sizes which fit the opening and, after being carefully shaped with the ax to make a tight fit, are securely nailed in position. This kind of chinking requires considerable work and patience to secure a good appearance.

Figure 25.â€”Pole chinking.

2.Pole chinking.â€”Small round poles may be used to fill the openings (fig. 25). Usually they are cut in sizes and lengths to fill the opening from wall to wall. This sort of chinking may be applied rapidly to either inside or outside walls and makes a neater job than the preceding method. Unless the logs are thoroughly seasoned these small poles sometimes have a tendency to pull away from the nails. When the chinking has been completed, the openings will have been reduced sufficiently in width to allow the calking material to be applied successfully.

It is always a serious problem in log construction to devise a practical method for permanently fastening the plaster daubing in place on both inside and outside walls. In some instances, shingle nails may be driven into the logs 2 to 3 inches apart for the full length of the opening or 2-inch wide strips of metal lath may be used and the plaster applied to fill it. Cattle hair may be added to the plaster to increase its adhesive consistency and thereby hold it more rigidly in place. Sometimes, wood strips are nailed on thelower log to hold the plaster in position, as shown infigure 26, but they are unsightly.

Figure 26.â€”Wood daubing strips.

CHINKLESS LOG CABIN CONSTRUCTION

Chinkless construction, associated with the building of log structures in Scandinavian countries, eliminates the chinking and mudding so prevalent in many log buildings. It consists of grooving the under side of every log in each tier so that it saddles the log beneath, making a close joint for its entire length. The groove is marked by a tool which, for convenience, may be called a cabin scribe or a drag (fig. 27).

Directions for chinkless log cabin construction.â€”-Mark and cut out the notch just as is done for a round-notch corner. Next, dog the log in place and scribe, making the additional mark shown by dash line (X,fig. 27). Then, cut to line and, finally, drop log in position.

The scribe is 12 inches long, made preferably of â…œ-inch square steel or iron bent in much the same manner as the spring in a steel trap; the two ends are turned down about 1Â½ inches like two fingers, diverging to about Â¾ of an inch at the points, and then sharpened with a flat surface on the inside of the point toward the loop. The loop should be hammered out thin to provide sufficient flexibility to allow the points to spread or close easily. A ring is welded around the two halves of the tool which, when slipped up or down, makes it possible to adjust the points and thereby prevent any furtherspreading while the tool is in use. A link from a small chain, placed over the legs before the points are turned, will serve the same purpose and, to prevent the points from springing together, a small piece of wood may be forced between them.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 27.â€”Chinkless log cabin construction.

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Figure 27.â€”Chinkless log cabin construction.

To fit a log, first frame it at the ends and then fit it down to within about 2 inches of the lower log where the opening is the widest It is difficult to do a good job of scribing when the logs are too close together. The scribe must then be adjusted at the point wherethe opening is the widest so that, when holding the tool parallel to the opening, the lower point of the scribe will ride on the surface of the bottom log. By exerting sufficient pressure, the upper point will score the top log. Repeat this operation to score the upper log on the other side. The corner tenons must be marked likewise. Next, turn the log over, work the tenons down and then cut aV-shaped groove to the marked lines in the remaining portion of the log, using a double-bitted ax. This groove should be cut deep enough along its center to permit the outer edge of the groove to rest continuously on the lower log. By removing the least amount of wood to make the smallest possible groove, the closest fit is obtained with the least effort.

Figure 28.â€”Fine example of milled-log constructionâ€”rangerâ€™s dwelling, Whitman National Forest, Oreg.

The principle of the scribe is based on parallel lines, and it can readily be seen that if there is a hump on the lower log there will have to be a gouge in the upper one. When the work is done carefully, the space remaining is negligible. Where an airtight wallis desired, a strip of plumberâ€™s oakum should be laid on the bottom log before the upper log is dropped into place. If this material is not available, dry moss is a fairly practical substitute.

Milled-Log Construction

Sometimes it is feasible to take advantage of a portable mill to face the logs on three sides rather than to hew them by hand. The level beds seat the logs so well that calking is minimized, the smooth interior surfaces permit of easy finishing, particularly where wood wainscoting or plaster is used, while the round-log exterior effect is undisturbed, except where the logs project at the corners.Figure 28illustrates a structure built in this way.

HEWING TIMBERS

The facing or hewing of round timbers to obtain one or two sides surfaced flat for framing purposes, as shown infigure 29, requires considerable skill in the use of the ax and broadax. There are, however, a number of mechanical aids (fig. 30) which should be used by anyone undertaking log construction in order to simplify the work as much as possible. The carpenterâ€™s spirit level, the steel square, and chalk line and chalk are necessary for laying off the lines to be followed in hewing timbers. In framing logs they should be laid up on skids, or sawhorses, dogged fast in place with iron dogs, and the dimensions laid off on each end of the log with the level and square to insure that the lines are parallel to each other. Then, with the chalk line, carefully snap lines on the side of the log connecting corresponding points at each end. For squaring the ends of a log and cutting pole rafters, use the miter box to guide the saw. To measure lengths accurately the steel tape, or a board pattern cut to the exact length, may be used.

FIREPLACE FRAMING

The living-room fireplace, invariably the most prominent interior feature, harmonizes best with a log interior if built of stone and provided with a crude log shelf. The fireplace itself may be either the traditional masonry type or the more modern metal-lined one equipped with a heatilator.

The masonry of the fireplace and its chimney should always start on solid earth, below the frost line, like the foundations of the building itself. Masonry does not settle, unlike the surrounding log construction. Consequently, it is recommended that a self-supporting log framing be built around and entirely free of the masonry of the fireplace and chimney, as illustrated infigure 31. The opening should be framed in the same way as window and door openings. The fireplace and chimney masonry should not be erected until the opening has been framed for it. Upon completion, the intersection between the stone and wood should be thoroughly calked to make an airtight, weatherproof job. This method allows the wall logs to settle, because of the unavoidable shrinkage, without structural failure.

Figure 29.â€”Framing hewed timbers.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 30.â€”Mechanical aids in cutting timbers.Method: Cut both miter boxes at angleXfor â…“ pitch. Fasten them securely to the floor or to a log, used as a sawhorse, and space exactly the required distance apart to insure that all rafters are cut alike. Then place each rafter in the boxes, back down if any curvature exists, dog rigidly in place and saw to the pattern.Line A represents the exterior wall face and, if sawed off on lineB, parallel with the wall face, overhang of eave will be 1 foot, 6 inches. Any desired overhang may be had and sawing eliminated by fixing the distanceC. The irregularly hewed rafter end is preferable to the uniform elliptical saw-cut ends. Finally, hew the upper surface of the rafters to a smooth even bearing to receive the roof sheathing boards.

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Figure 30.â€”Mechanical aids in cutting timbers.Method: Cut both miter boxes at angleXfor â…“ pitch. Fasten them securely to the floor or to a log, used as a sawhorse, and space exactly the required distance apart to insure that all rafters are cut alike. Then place each rafter in the boxes, back down if any curvature exists, dog rigidly in place and saw to the pattern.Line A represents the exterior wall face and, if sawed off on lineB, parallel with the wall face, overhang of eave will be 1 foot, 6 inches. Any desired overhang may be had and sawing eliminated by fixing the distanceC. The irregularly hewed rafter end is preferable to the uniform elliptical saw-cut ends. Finally, hew the upper surface of the rafters to a smooth even bearing to receive the roof sheathing boards.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 31.â€”Framing around the fireplace.Framing logs around fireplace and chimney varies with the effect desired: (1) By using an exposed vertical slabbed log and spline, as atA, with spaceX, to allow for the shrinkage settling of the logs above the mantel, or (2) by using a concealed vertical slabbed log and spline, as atB, where the masonry is exposed above the mantel.

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Figure 31.â€”Framing around the fireplace.Framing logs around fireplace and chimney varies with the effect desired: (1) By using an exposed vertical slabbed log and spline, as atA, with spaceX, to allow for the shrinkage settling of the logs above the mantel, or (2) by using a concealed vertical slabbed log and spline, as atB, where the masonry is exposed above the mantel.

Figure 32.â€”A useful type of modern log dwellingâ€”ranger station, Gallatin National Forest, Mont.

In building an ordinary fireplace, the firebox and inner hearth should be made of firebrick to withstand intense heat and the various parts proportioned in accordance with standard practice to insure efficient operation.[1]

[1]For this purpose the following publication will be found useful: Farmers' Bulletin 1889, Fireplaces and Chimneys.

The heatilator is a built-in recirculating steel unit consisting of metal sides and back to form a heating chamber, adjacent to the fire pit, which draws cold air through a register at each side near the floor and after the air is heated ejects it through similar registers above. It should be installed in conformity with the manufacturerâ€™s directions, taking care to select a stock-size unit suitable for the dimensions of the fireplace opening and to erect the surrounding masonry accordingly.

OILING AND PAINTING

After all the openings have been properly calked and the logs brushed clean, it is often desirable, although not absolutely necessary, to treat the log surfaces with some sort of preservative material. Logwood oil is excellent for the exterior. The colorless variety is preferable in most cases but, if some color is desired, add just enough burnt umber, or raw sienna paste, to give the proper shade. For interior finish, apply a coat of clear shellac and then one or two coats of dull varnish. The trim can be treated in a similar manner to preserve the pleasing effect produced by the natural surface and color of the wood.

THE FINISHED STRUCTURE

Examples of modern log construction are shown in figures32,33, and34. Early types of log structures are illustrated infigure 35.

Figure 33.â€”Modern structures showing effective use of log construction in recreation buildings on national forests in Montana.A, Dude ranch;BandC, recreational and mess hall, Seely Lake.

Figure 34.â€”Organization camp at Seely Lake showing log work In greater detail.A, Entrance wing;B, cabin group. Note the wedges under porch post to provide for settling of walls. Wedges are gradually driven out as necessary.

Figure 35.â€”Early types of log structures built by the U. S. Forest Service in the West.A, Ranger station, Gallatin National Forest, Mont.;B, rangerâ€™s dwelling, Nezperce National Forest, Idaho;C, log cabin in Arizona.

FURNITURE

The matter of interior furnishings is always of great concern to those who build log cabins. Odds and ends or too many â€œwhat-notsâ€ may prove to be misfits. Pieces of Early American design are perhaps the most appropriate ready-made furniture, but sturdy, rustic pieces yield the greatest satisfaction.

Many cabin owners have found a great deal of pleasure in making essential furniture, such as bunks, beds, tables, chairs, settees, and similar items. In the East, birch is preferred as a material, and in the West, lodgepole pine is most satisfactory. Other native species, however, will do just as well. In making furniture it is advisable to remove the bark from the logs because bark collects insects, causes the wood to deteriorate and eventually falls off, leaving imperfect, unsightly surfaces. Figures36and37show types of furniture suitable for log residences.

For rustic effects, the use of a stain of the following proportions gives a satisfactory appearance: 2 quarts turpentine, 2 quarts raw linseed oil, and 1 pint liquid drier, to which add Â½ pint of raw sienna, Â½ pint of burnt umber, and a touch of burnt sienna. The top surfaces of tables, buffets, chests, and rawhide seats should have two coats of spar varnish. Where countersunk screws are used in connection with a stain finish, insert false wood, dowel-like plugs in preference to plastic wood to conceal the screwheads.

Simplicity, both in construction and appearance, is the keynote for producing the most harmonious effects in furniture, in keeping with log interiors.

Chairs and Stools

Armchairs can be built with well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine, or birch (fig. 38). The cornerpieces should be mortised and tenoned to the frame and rail and anchored in place with â…œ- by 15-inch lag screws. The arms should be fastened to the cornerpieces with â…œ- by 5-inch carriage bolts and to the slab support with â…œ- by 4-inch lag screws. The vertical slab support should be rigidly secured to the frame with â…œ- by 3-inch carriage bolts. Cushions may be of the filler type, without springs, and covered with homespun fabric. Use 2-inch wide heavy canvas strips, securely fastened with furniture tacks, to support the cushions.

Upright chairs and stools (fig. 39) can be made from the same material as the armchair. Cross the poles to impale the legs rigidly. The crosspieces of the chair back should be curved to fit the human back. The joints must be tightly glued, mortised, and tenoned.

Figure 36.â€”Furniture suitable for log cabinsâ€”convenient, sturdy, and easy to make.A, Bed;B, bed and armchair.

Figure 37.â€”A, Dining table appropriate for log cabin;B, book rack and hod.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 38.â€”Plan for making an armchair suitable for log residence.

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Figure 38.â€”Plan for making an armchair suitable for log residence.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 39.â€”Plan for making an upright chair and stool.

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Figure 39.â€”Plan for making an upright chair and stool.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 40.â€”Plan for making a double bed for log residence.

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Figure 40.â€”Plan for making a double bed for log residence.

Bed and Bunk

Birch or well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine is suitable for making a bed or bunk. In making a bed (fig. 40) the crosspieces should impale the corner posts tightly; the joints should be glued and toe-nailed from below. Do not cut the side or end pieces until the bedspring has been measured and then allow for a slight play in both directions in setting the angle irons, in order to facilitate the insertion and removal of the mattress. Use 14- by 3-inch carriage bolts to fasten the angle irons to the wood frame.Figure 40is a plan for making a double bed 5 for a single bed, reduce the width accordingly.

A double-deck bunk is made in much the same way as a bed (fig. 41).

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 41.â€”Plan for building a double-deck bunk.

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Figure 41.â€”Plan for building a double-deck bunk.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 42.â€”Plan for making a combination chest and buffet.

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Figure 42.â€”Plan for making a combination chest and buffet.

Chest and Buffet

No log residence is complete without furniture for storing clothes. A combination chest and buffet suitable for log cabins can be made from well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine, tamarack, or birch (fig. 42). The ends, doors, shelves, and drawer fronts should be cut from No. 2 tongue-and-groove commercial pine lumber.

Settee

A settee can be made from well-seasoned pine or birch (fig. 43). Join the corner poles to the slab frame and rail with mortise-and-tenon joints; then anchor the joints by means of â…œ- by 6 -inch lag screws. Fasten the arms to the corner poles with â…œ- by 5-inch carriage bolts and to the slab support with â…œ- by 4-inch lag screws. Use â…œ- by 3-inch carriage bolts to fasten the slab support to the frame. The 1- by 2-inch hardwood crosspieces should be securely fastened at the top ends and notched into the legs at the bottom ends, held by 2-inch wood screws, driven into place at an angle. Back slats should be mortised and tenoned to the rail and frame. The cushions should be the filler type, without springs if so desired, and covered with homespun fabric.

Figure 43.â€”Plan for making a living-room settee.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 44.â€”Dining table plan.

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Figure 44.â€”Dining table plan.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 45.â€”Plan for making benches.

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Figure 45.â€”Plan for making benches.

Dining Table

Peeled pine or birch is ideal material for building a dining table (fig. 44). Make a tight saddle joint betweenBand the legs. Cross poles to impale the legs tightly. NotchEfor the cross poles. Uppersurface ofCshould be slab-faced and fitted betweenDand cross poles, all rigidly braced together. Top pieces of tables should be doweled at places indicated in the drawing with Â½- by 4-inch wood dowels, glued and clamped to insure tight joints. Notch top pieces A 1-inch deep to receiveBandD. Top outside edges ofA,C,andEshould be hewed.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 46.â€”Plan for a book rack.

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Figure 46.â€”Plan for a book rack.

Table, Bench, Book Rack, and Wood Hod

Well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine, tamarack, cedar, or birch are suitable for benches (fig. 45). The joints should be glued.Countersink any screws, then conceal the heads with false wooden dowel-like plugs. If the furniture is to be painted, use plastic wood. A book rack may be made of the same material used for the bench, except cedar, which is unsuitable (fig. 46). The sides and bottom shelf should be rabbeted and thoroughly glued. The two intermediate shelves can be made adjustable by boring 3 holes in each side-piece 2 inches apart, above and below the position shown for the shelves infigure 46, into which loose wooden pins may be inserted for their support. Screw the top in place, countersink screwheads and insert wood cover plugs or false dowels for concealment where stained finish is used. If painted, plastic wood may be used.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 47.â€”Plan for a fireplace wood hod.

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Figure 47.â€”Plan for a fireplace wood hod.

A fireplace wood hod (fig. 47) may be made of wood and metal. Use well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine, tamarack, or birch. Make a tight cradle joint between horizontal and vertical side-pieces, using 14- by 2-inch carriage bolts except that by 3-inch lag screws should be used for fastening the lower side-pieces and bottom. Secure the wrought-iron handle to each side toppiece with 3- by 1Â½-inch carriage bolts. The wood sides should have hewed edges of Â¾ inch minimum thickness.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 48.â€”Floor plan for a four-room log residence.

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Figure 48.â€”Floor plan for a four-room log residence.

BUILDING PLANS

Selection of the site and preparation of building plans varies with individual taste. In choosing a location one must consider availability of transportation, shopping centers, water supply, sewage disposal, electric facilities, and kindred factors.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 49.â€”Floor plan for a four-room log residence with somewhat different orientation than that shown infigure 48.

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Figure 49.â€”Floor plan for a four-room log residence with somewhat different orientation than that shown infigure 48.

Before undertaking construction it may be desirable to consult an architect or competent builder to make sure that (1) your desires are satisfied with respect to the necessary accommodations; (2) rules and regulations enforced by local authorities will be observed; and (3) provisions are made for installing telephone, electricity, water, and plumbing facilities. Failure to take these precautions may necessitate costly changes after construction has begun.

Plans for suitable four-room log residences are given in figures48and49, and for a five-room structure infigure 50. Figure51shows the layout of a United States Forest Service two-room guard cabin adaptable for summer residence use.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 50.â€”Floor plan for a five-room log residence, including three bedrooms, living-room, kitchen, and two porches.

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Figure 50.â€”Floor plan for a five-room log residence, including three bedrooms, living-room, kitchen, and two porches.

magnifyClick on image to view larger versionFigure 51.â€”U. S. Forest Service two-room fireguard cabin adaptable for summer residence use.

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Figure 51.â€”U. S. Forest Service two-room fireguard cabin adaptable for summer residence use.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Additional useful information on building log cabins may be obtained from the following publications:

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

FIREPLACES AND CHIMNEYS. Farmers' Bul. 1889, 52 pp., illus. 1940.PROTECTION OF LOG CABINS, RUSTIC WORK, AND UNSEASONED WOOD FROM INJURIOUS INSECTS. Farmers' Bul. 1582, 20 pp., illus. 1929.USE OF LOGS AND POLES IN FARM CONSTRUCTION. Farmers' Bul. 1660, 26 pp., illus. 1931.

FIREPLACES AND CHIMNEYS. Farmers' Bul. 1889, 52 pp., illus. 1940.

PROTECTION OF LOG CABINS, RUSTIC WORK, AND UNSEASONED WOOD FROM INJURIOUS INSECTS. Farmers' Bul. 1582, 20 pp., illus. 1929.

USE OF LOGS AND POLES IN FARM CONSTRUCTION. Farmers' Bul. 1660, 26 pp., illus. 1931.

OTHER SOURCES

LOG BUILDINGS. Wis. Agr. Col. Ext. Stencil Cir. 158, 39 pp., illus. 1940.LOG CABIN CONSTRUCTION.A. B. Bowman. Mich. State Col. Ext. Bul. 222, 54 pp., illus. 1941.LOG CABINS AND COTTAGES; HOW TO BUILD AND FURNISH THEM.W. A. Bruette, ed. 96 pp., illus. New York.THE REAL LOG CABIN.C. D. Aldrich. 278 pp., illus. 1934. New York.SHELTERS, SHACKS, AND SHANTIES.D. C. Beard. 243 pp., illus 1932. New York.

LOG BUILDINGS. Wis. Agr. Col. Ext. Stencil Cir. 158, 39 pp., illus. 1940.

LOG CABIN CONSTRUCTION.A. B. Bowman. Mich. State Col. Ext. Bul. 222, 54 pp., illus. 1941.

LOG CABINS AND COTTAGES; HOW TO BUILD AND FURNISH THEM.W. A. Bruette, ed. 96 pp., illus. New York.

THE REAL LOG CABIN.C. D. Aldrich. 278 pp., illus. 1934. New York.

SHELTERS, SHACKS, AND SHANTIES.D. C. Beard. 243 pp., illus 1932. New York.

U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1954

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office

Washington 25, D. C. â€” Price 25 cents

TO KEEP THE TREES GROWINGHere in the United States we are cutting trees faster than new ones are growing for the future. And because science is showing us how to use wood better and in new ways we are likely to want more trees in the future than we use today. In fact we must double the annual growth of usable wood. This canâ€™t be done easily or quickly. It will require decades of good forestry. So we must take steps nowâ€”To protect all our forests well from fire, insects, and disease;To stop wasteful and destructive cutting;To keep plenty of trees of all sizes growing to replace those we cut;To restore commercial tree growth on millions of acres of forests that have been badly treated or burned;To give farmers and other small owners more help in growing, harvesting, and marketing their tree crops;To put wild land into public forests when private owners cannot take care of it or the public interest calls for special treatment.

TO KEEP THE TREES GROWING

Here in the United States we are cutting trees faster than new ones are growing for the future. And because science is showing us how to use wood better and in new ways we are likely to want more trees in the future than we use today. In fact we must double the annual growth of usable wood. This canâ€™t be done easily or quickly. It will require decades of good forestry. So we must take steps nowâ€”

To protect all our forests well from fire, insects, and disease;

To stop wasteful and destructive cutting;

To keep plenty of trees of all sizes growing to replace those we cut;

To restore commercial tree growth on millions of acres of forests that have been badly treated or burned;

To give farmers and other small owners more help in growing, harvesting, and marketing their tree crops;

To put wild land into public forests when private owners cannot take care of it or the public interest calls for special treatment.

Transcriber NotesAll illustrations were moved so as to not split paragraphs.

Transcriber Notes

All illustrations were moved so as to not split paragraphs.

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