On Friday morning, as soon as the dawning day dispatched its first rays over Cleveland, we resumed our voyage on Lake Erie. The flakes of light were falling every moment faster and broader among the spires and towers of the city of which we gradually lost sight. They were only discernible as long, gray shadows on the elevated lake shore. The mists were couched in quiet masses, iridescent with the morning light, upon the breasts of the remote hills, over whose leagues of massy undulations, they melted into the robe of material light, fading, lost in the increasing lustre, again to reappear in the higher heavens, while their bases vanished into the unsubstantial and mocking blue of the lake below. The dispersing wreaths of white clouds gradually gave place to the pale azure of the horizon. The level of the beautiful inland-sea was bathed in the glorious sunlight and the whole heaven—one scarlet canopy—colored the limpid waters with an exquisite, roseate tint; thus giving a redoubled splendor to this fine panorama.
While the midday sun was sending forth his warm rays, we came abreast ofMarblehead, and speeding along we reached Green Island at 1 o'clock.
Having passed Barr Point Lighthouse we chose our halting place on the Canadian shore nearAmherstburg, a small village pleasantly situated on the Detroit River.
As the yacht was fastened to the dock, the heavens were yet illumined by the parting day; which gave us opportunity to admire the superb spectacle on the opposite shore. Its southwestern extremity was adorned with numerous verdant islands of various size and form; some stretching for miles in length—the largest containing a circumference of fourteen miles; several so small that they seemed destined for a race of fairies; others in clusters; and some like beautiful vestals, in single loveliness, whose holy vows ordained them forever to live alone.
The last streak of light had faded from the west, and a pale lustre kindling in the eastern portions of the sky, became brighter and brighter till the white falcated moon was lifted up above the horizon; while uncountable stars appeared to reflect their brilliancy in the waters below. This delightful scene around us, so perfectly filled and satisfied our sense of beauty that we reluctantly gave up our comfortable seats on the stern-deck, notwithstanding an advanced time of night.
On the following morning the sun rose in his clearest splendor. As soon as that flood of luminous rays which constitutes day, was flowing on the crystalline sea, we departed from this romantic country scene in Canada.
Sailing along, we approached the terminus of our voyage on Lake Erie, which is considered the most dangerous of all the Great Lakes as to navigation, owing to its comparative shallowness—its mean depth, being about ninety feet—and the consequent liability to a heavy ground swell. The peculiar features of this body of water are its inferior depth and the clayey nature of its shores, which are generally low; on the south, however, bordered by an elevated plateau, through which the rivers have cut deep channels.
Though the lake possesses but a small number of good harbors, the amount of traffic on its waters, and on the connecting railways is enormous.
This inland-sea, presenting us only sights of utmost quietude and peace, has been the scene of a naval engagement between the British and Americans, September 10, 1813, in which the latter were victorious. The view we enjoyed was not in the least adequate to remind us of warfare; on the contrary
"The sun in heaven shone so gay:All things were joyful on that day."
It was yet early in the morning when we neared the city of Detroit, having almost reached the head ofDetroit Riverwhich separates the United States from Canada. Being about one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide, and five and one-half fathoms deep, the river flows with a pretty swift current.
Detroitis the most important city of Michigan, opposite the Canadian town Windsor.
Eighteen miles north of Lake Erie, it stretches with its suburbs about five miles along the river, and the central part extends for about two miles back from the shore. Approaching the city, we were more and more delighted with its attractive appearance. The streets, from fifty to 100 feet wide, are for the most part ornamented with rows of trees. A number of avenues, having an unusual width, diverge from the Grand Circus, a spacious park semi-circular in form, which is divided into two quadrants by Woodward Avenue. Connected with the former is the Campus Martius, a public place about 600 feet long and 250 feet wide. Detroit comprises many magnificent structures. One of the chief public buildings is the city hall, facing the Campus Martius, with fronts on four streets. It counts among the finest edifices of the kind in the west. Built of sandstone, it is designed after the Italian style of architecture, surmounted by a tower 180 feet high. Its cost amounted to $600,000. Other prominent structures are the opera house, the office of the Board of Trade, the custom house, and the Roman Catholic cathedral.
The commercial facilities of the city are very extensive. The Detroit River is a connecting link in the great chain of lake navigation, and affords the best harbor on the inland-seas. Detroit is not only the center of a great railroad system; more than 350 vessels are owned here, and numerous daily lines of steamers run to various points of the lakes. Its manufacturing industries are very important and consist of iron, flour, tobacco, cigars, lumber, and bricks. The extensive Pullman Car Works are situated here; also one of the seven pin factories in the United States.
Settled by the French, early in the eighteenth century, Detroit passed into the hands of the English in 1763. It was then besieged for eleven months by the Indian chief Pontiac; ceded to the Americans in 1783, but not occupied by them till 1796. As a city, it was incorporated in 1824; and its present population is estimated to be 235,000. It was the capital of Michigan from 1837 till 1847, when that honor was transferred to Lansing.
Having traversed Detroit River, we enteredLake St. Clair, a sheet of water eighteen miles long and twenty-two miles wide. This small lake has many extensive sand-banks covered with a depth of water varying from six to ten feet. Previous to 1858, much inconvenience was experienced in navigating it, owing to the insufficient depth, but the governments of the United States and Canada have dredged a canal through the bed of the lake, comprising a width of 300 feet. Since then, this channel has been deepened so as to enable vessels drawing fifteen feet to pass with safety from lake to lake in stormy weather.
After the expiration of a few hours we reachedRiver St. Clair, whose luxuriant border exhibited a magnificent panorama.
Afar off westward, the uplands wore a tinge of tenderest blue; and in the nearer distance, on the low shores of the river, superb summer residences, tasty villas, and elegant hotels, built in every style of architecture, lay interspersed between romantic hills and tufted groves. The horizon was of a fine, golden tint, changing gradually into the deep blue of the mid-heaven.
None of us ventured to leave the deck fearing to miss some of those unrivaled sights constantly offering new attractions.
This trip on River St. Clair—though having an extent of thirty-three miles—seemed but short to us; and the fine spectacle displayed on the charming western bank may be reckoned among the most delightful scenes we beheld on our long, enjoyable voyage.
As we approached the terminus of the river, a sudden rush of the awakened wind was heard; and out of the blue horizon a troop of narrow, dark, and pointed clouds were advancing, covering the sky, inch by inch, with their gray masses gradually blotting the light out of the landscape. Horizontal bars of black shadow were forming under them, and lurid wreaths wrapped themselves about the crests of the hills. The wind had grown more violent asPort Huroncame in view. Waving curtains of opaque rain, swinging from the overburdened clouds, dropped down upon the surface of the river. The black swaying fringes, sweeping irresistibly along the water, churned the surface into foam.
The sudden and unfavorable change of the weather determined our commodore to abide atPort Huron, a prosperous city in Michigan. It commands a very advantageous situation, located on the west bank of River St. Clair, and at the southern extremity of Lake Huron.
Being the county seat of St. Clair County, it is also a point of great importance in the railway system, and the terminus of several lines of lake steamers.
The city, with a population of nearly 14,000, has a large lumber trade, ship-yards, dry-docks, saw and flour mills.
Founded in 1819, Port Huron was incorporated as a village in 1835, and as a city in 1857.
Since the yacht lingered here until Monday, August 7th, we were enabled to become familiar with its broad streets, regularly laid out and well shaded; some adorned by beautiful private residences. The heavy, black clouds that had shrouded the whole sky ever since we made our entry in Port Huron, were yet concealing the golden disk of the summer sun. The atmosphere, however, which had previously a disagreeable, wet chilliness in it, gradually grew clearer and warmer so that we left the dock with the intention to undertake our voyage on Lake Huron, but when nearing the place where this sheet of water, covering an area of 23,000 square miles, communicates with River St. Clair, we discovered that the swell on the lake level was yet quite considerable, whereas the wind which had blown a gale all the preceding day, was gradually dying away.
Still, we found it advisable to wait until the foaming waves of the enraged element had been appeased. In consequence of this decision we concluded to moor the yacht as near the entrance of Lake Huron, as we conveniently could, ready for an early departure; for which we considered the town ofSarnia, opposite Port Huron, the most favorable locality.
Romantically situated on the Canadian shore, Sarnia affords a splendid north and west view. Its handsome streets and neat structures are quite attractive to the stranger; and not these alone but also the residents who are generous and hospitable. We observed this fact, even during our short stay, when receiving the visit of Mr. Clark and his amiable lady, who presented us with a bouquet of fragrant flowers, a kind gift that we highly appreciated.
Long ere the east became purple with the morning light and the pinnacles of Sarnia were bathed, one by one, in the glory of its burning, we departed from the pleasant city, and the white sea-bird "Marguerite" spread her light wings over the surface of Lake Huron, whose waves—although the wind was quite fresh—did not run as high as I anticipated; for I had been informed that on the previous day the tide from the lake into Detroit River amounted to eight miles an hour.
As I was pacing up and down the deck, I viewed an inland-sea 270 miles long, and 105 miles broad, with a picturesque coast line on our left. The purity of its waters was discernible by its limpid appearance and savory taste. The fine deposits of sand and clay extending at different places along the shore to a distance of twenty miles inland, by their contrasts added to the scenic beauty, exhibiting a variety of magnificent views.
The luxuriant coast bordering on the southern extremity of the lake and skirting the peninsula of Michigan and southwestern Ontario—though comparatively flat—is not void of charming features; being lined with numerous pretty villages imbosomed among gentle slopes that were covered with the richest verdure. These hamlets, situated in the quiet valleys and shaded glens, alternated with extensive fields and orchards exuberant with fertility.
Speeding along on the wavy surface of the lake, we gained sight of the breakwater ofSand Beachwhen the noon-tide of the day had not yet arrived.
We first visited the village of Sand Beach, and returned at nightfall to the breakwater, which is five miles distant from the former; here the yacht was cabled to the dock. Near our halting place there stood a lofty tower, whose illuminating apparatus threw a radiant, vari-colored light on the dark surface of Lake Huron.
Upon expressing a desire to visit the Light Tower, Mr. James, who never left any of our wishes unfulfilled, immediately made arrangements with the keeper; and, accordingly, we were invited to intrust ourselves to his guidance.
He informed us that the structure rested on a foundation consisting of a concrete mass, nine feet below the water line. Having ascended four flights of iron-wrought winding stairs, we reached the top of the circular structure; it having a diameter of twenty-four feet at its base, and rising to an elevation of fifty-seven feet.
With great interest we inspected the revolving lights, exhibiting an ingenious piece of machinery, the invention of Finisterre and Barren in Paris, and representing a value of $1,800. This apparatus for rotating lamps is far superior to that for a fixed light.
The characteristic of the latter is to constantly illuminate the whole horizon, requiring all the rays to fall simultaneously on the navigable track, whereas the demands made of a revolving light, are not nearly so great; only each point of the horizon being lighted at successive periods.
When the dark intervals occur, the rays from the flame which are then pointing toward the obscure spaces, have their direction so altered laterally as to pass into the adjoining bright places; and so increase the power of the luminous flashes. A revolving light, though supplied by a flame of the same strength as a fixed, will thus necessarily be raised to a higher degree; for it does not lose its power by diffusing the rays constantly over the whole horizon, but gathers them up into a number of separate beams of greater intensity.
The lights made to revolve by means of clockwork, were fed with mineral oil, a refined kerosine; and the refraction was caused by highly polished metallic reflectors.
This visit to the Sand Beach Beacon was quite instructive; since we viewed there a practical application of an important principle in optics, based on the reflection of light.
On Wednesday morning, the first beams of the new-born day had just appeared, when the yacht continued her voyage on Lake Huron. After a course of nearly twenty-two miles, we approachedSaginaw Bay—the largest indentation on the western lake shore—comprising a width of thirty miles and a length of sixty miles.
The passage across this bay, feared by many experienced navigators on account of the heavy ground swell, did not give us any cause for anxiety at first. Gradually, however, the sea became quite rough, and the enraged waves dashed their spray pearls even upon the deck of our sailing home.
"The soft, wild waves, that rush and leap,Sing one song from the hoary deep:The south wind knows its own refrain,As it speeds the cloud o'er heaven's blue main."
The strong breeze springing up in the forenoon, increased at midday. A line of low waves, first creeping sinuously into the bay, and tossing their snowy crests like troops of wild steeds, rolled higher and higher with the noise of many waters; and to escape the wrath of the angry sea, we stopped at the harbor ofTawas City, located near the northern extremity of Saginaw Bay. It is a thriving country town, with about 1,000 inhabitants, largely engaged in lumber trade.
The wind continued to lash the fierce billows during the day until evening; so we decided to remain in Tawas City until the dawn of the next morning.
Guided by the pale light of another aurora, we resumed our voyage, finding the surface of Lake Huron still in uproar.
During this forenoon, we had occasion to witness a prospect quite novel to us. Glancing to our left, on Michigan's sylvan shore, we saw the bickering flames of a ravaging forest fire; dyeing all the surrounding air and landscape crimson, while dense clouds of smoke hung over the burning land like a pall upon which the sun-rays were reflected with weird effect. It was, indeed, an unusual sight, exhibiting strange beauty and splendor.
In a short time we experienced the disagreeable consequences of this conflagration in the woodlands, caused by the extreme dryness prevailing in these regions for several weeks. For, as we reachedAlpenain Michigan, at about noonday, we found the atmosphere completely saturated with smoke, and intermixed with particles of burnt material.
The reader can easily imagine that this impure air had a very unpleasant effect upon our eyes, irritating them so as to materially interfere with our comfort. This was the reason why we did not duly appreciate the attractions of Alpena, a town with about 12,500 inhabitants, regularly laid out with nice, broad streets, containing many handsome buildings and large stores.
We had an ardent desire to bid farewell to the city as quick as possible; wherefore our captain received the order from Mr. James to guide the yacht forward on her course, even before the dawning of the next day, if such an early departure could be effected with safety.
In compliance with these commands, we were on our way long ere the blush of day tinged the eastern sky. At first, disregarding the smoke and mist which became denser every minute, our navigator was soon aware that
"So thick a haze o'erspreads the sky,He cannot see the sun on high:On deck the captain takes his stand,So dull it is, he sees no land.'Dear me,' he says, 'I know no moreHow far away we are from shore.'"
The fact is—that on account of the dense pall of smoke and mist, overshadowing everything—our pilot lost his reckoning, and only kept the yacht slowly moving through the water until we could find our way, when suddenly—we ran aground upon a rocky ledge, causing us all great consternation.
"No stir in the air, no stir in the sea,The ship was as still as she might be.Her shaft and screw received no shock.Her keel was steady on a rock."
Having lost all presence of mind, our pilot, without any meditation, abandoned the yacht in one of the small boats, for the purpose of obtaining assistance from the unknown shore. Before we were conscious of his proceedings, he had disappeared through fume and haze. Almost instantaneously we detected that the mariner's compass had vanished with him.
Thus, we were destitute of the most important instrument for navigation. Wishing to give our deserter opportunity to find his way back to us, we caused the whistle to resound at short intervals.
This interesting adventure was, of course, thoroughly discussed. We were all convinced that the unforeseen event might turn into a perilous one, should a wind arise to roughen the surface of the water.
Our conversation was interrupted by an involuntary cry of pleasure which burst from the lips of Miss Campbell, whose keen eyes had revealed to her quite an uncommon spectacle in the hazy distance. Following her direction, we spied, through the fluctuating light of the foggy morning, the outlines of a steadfast boat speeding along on the calm sea. Eight oars, managed with the accuracy of clockwork by eight strong and skillful hands, were hurrying toward our rock-bound craft.
As the shape and dimensions of the capable boat became discernible, it was evident she belonged to the United States Life-Saving Service, coming to our rescue. This conjecture was correct, for the robust crew soon lay alongside of us; which was a matter of intense relief to the whole party.
With their assistance, the yacht was soon afloat again; and, guided by the Thunder Bay crew, we sailed to a favorable place of anchorage between Sugar and Gull Islands. Here the yacht remained to await our fugitive pilot, who was restored to us by the kind services of the life-saving crew, a few hours afterwards.
We were informed that we had been aground two miles from the shore, in the vicinity of Thunder Bay Lights onGull Island Ledge.
During a heavy shower in the afternoon, we received a visit from several very pleasant ladies, relatives to the captain of the Thunder Bay life-saving service.
When expressing our regret that their excursion was not favored by pleasanter weather, they assured us they were only too glad to view the tremulous skeins of rain refresh the languishing earth. In fact, this rainfall was a duplicated blessing, as it not only cleared the atmosphere from its smoky shroud but helped to check the ravages of the extensive forest conflagration, then threatening the city of Alpena with destruction.
An awakened breeze, which had freshened since the violent shower, caused our floating home to roll considerably.
Not desirous of being rudely tossed by the wanton billows, we weighed anchor and returned to Alpena, the only safe harbor within reach before sunset.
Early the next day we continued our voyage on Lake Huron, entering its northern portion, which differs greatly from the nature of its southern shore.
The northern and northeastern coasts are mostly composed of sand- and limestones. Where metamorphic rocks are found, the surface is broken and hilly, rising to elevations of 600 feet or more above the lake; in this respect unlike the southern shore, which is low and flat. Of the many islands—whose number amounts to about 3,000—we could admire the beauties of but few; for most of them dot the Canadian coast line.
As the wind increased rapidly, it was deemed advisable to take harbor atFalse Presqu'ile, where we arrived at 9 A.M. Although this small body of land appeared very insignificant, inhabited by only twelve families, we decided to remain there, until wind and waves would prove more favorable.
We had no motive to regret that resolution; for we experienced that this solitary tract not only afforded us enchanting views of lovely scenery; it was also the abode of noble-hearted mortals. Immediately after our arrival a very amiable gentleman, introducing himself as Mr. W.A. French, a wealthy lumber merchant of this place, visited us on board; giving us a cordial welcome. Not satisfied with a kind reception, he and his pretty wife presented us with all sorts of provisions, indigenous to this locality; thus evincing the abundant supply of delicacies at their disposal, notwithstanding their residing in such solitude.
The time passed with marvelous rapidity in the pleasant company of our new friends. When the gloom of the growing twilight reminded us of the fading day, we could hardly realize this fact. We wished to stay there another day; but when the following morning rose fair and beautiful in the clear heavens, the wind had changed to the southeast, which was disadvantageous for our mooring place; and it might have been dangerous for us to remain in that harbor, should the breeze become violent.
Leaving False Presqu'ile, we pursued our voyage under the most favorable auspices.
After a course of several hours, we reachedCheboygan, a town situated on the northern shore of the Michigan Peninsula, thirteen miles from the Straits of Mackinaw. Lumber trade is carried on especially in this place, which contains about 7,500 inhabitants.
Resuming our trip the next forenoon, a short course brought us to the terminus of our voyage on Lake Huron; when reaching theStraits of Mackinaw, whose blue green waves divide the State of Michigan.
Extending nearly nine miles in circumference, and rising at its highest point over 300 feet above the waves, we beheld the famousMackinaw Island, which has filled an important place in the history of exploration. Here was the meeting place of the daring Frenchvoyageursandaventuriers, before the pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock. Many wild and thrilling incidents in the lives of Marquette, Hennepin, and La Salle occurred on this island; and over at Point St. Ignace, in plain view, Marquette was escorted to his burial place by a hundred canoes of plumed and painted Ottawa and Huron warriors in 1677.
Just across, on the most northern point of the Lower Peninsula, stood oldFort Mackinaw, the scene of the terrible massacre of the whites by theIndians under Pontiac in 1763.
On this island were fought two battles in the war of 1812. It was here that Schoolcraft wrote his celebrated History of the North American Indians, and the Legend of Hiawatha, which Longfellow, visiting him here, afterward expanded into a poem.
The island's varied scenery, and its history and traditions, have been portrayed in vivid word pictures by Marion Harland in a book, bearing the title "With the Best Intentions," by which she has recently added to her wide fame.
Having crossed the strait at its narrowest part four miles in width, we caught sight of the beautiful waters ofLake Michigan, the only one in the group of the North American great lakes which extends entirely within the territory of the United States, having a maximum breadth of eighty four miles, and a depth varying from 700 to 1,000 feet. Its length amounts to 345 miles from the northwestern corner of Indiana and the northern part of Illinois to the Straits of Mackinaw.
We followed the same route which more than two centuries ago was taken by Jacques Marquette who, in the spring of 1673, with Joliet for his chieftain, and five other Frenchmen, embarked at Mackinaw in two frail bark canoes.
The disposition to pause for an instant, and to reflect upon the character and circumstance of our luxurious voyage as contrasted with that of these few adventurers in their fragile birch canoes—a little over 220 years ago—is almost irresistible.
On that occasion it was a journey of extreme peril—with no friendly populous havens at which the necessary commodities could be obtained. Those densely wooded shores afforded no hospitable refuge to these hardy men, and their destination or return was a question of great uncertainty.
We pushed along with the marvelous propeller and, surrounded with every comfort, had the assurance of each evening anchoring in some safe harbor—encountering cheerful voices, and seeing glad faces—with the possibility of daily finding everything we wanted, in profusion. There was the postoffice, with its rapid service at our disposal, or the electric telegraph, by means of which we could communicate with every part of civilization, ever within our reach—and the climax of modern genius in the magnificent structures of the Columbian Exposition awaiting us—the marvel of the nineteenth century, with its unparalleled aggregation. The thought is overwhelming! And could these explorers have seen in a dream—what we witnessed in reality—it would have seemed to them an impossibility that so short a time could have brought about such great events.
The eastern lake shore was richly garlanded with forests displaying a vast multitude of verdant hues, varying through all the shades of green. Over the whole the azure of the sky cast a deep, misty blue; blending toward the rocks of lime- and sandstone, seemingly embracing every possible tint and shade of color.
Having achieved a course of sixty miles, the yacht cast anchor in the excellent harbor of St. James onBeaver Island, a large tract of land covering an area of 3,700 acres. Vessels of various kinds and shapes lay moored in this spacious inlet. Being wind-bound, we tarried for two days, which gave us opportunity to become acquainted with the features of the island. We were informed that it is identified with the history of Mormonism; since it was first settled by adherents of that sect, who robbed the ships entering this port, and who led the lives of pirates. After their leader was killed in one of the numerous combats which ensued with the attacked sailors, they abandoned the place; but the habitation of the Mormon chief is still existing, probably the only vestige left here of the followers of Joseph Smith.
At 1 o'clock A.M., on Wednesday, August 16th, we departed from Beaver Island. The pilot had guided the "Marguerite" on a course of about forty-five miles southward, when we approachedNorthport, Michigan, a place noteworthy for having not a single of those maleficient institutions, commonly styled beer-saloons.
We lingered two hours at the dock of this town. The white fields of blinding mist floated along the winding valleys of the low lake shore; and from the dark clouds curtaining the sun, the rain fell continuously. Thus the landscape on our left bore a gray and dim tincture.
Before the darkness of evening had gathered about us, the yacht was made fast to the dock ofFrankfort, on the Michigan coast, a small place with a population of about 1,000, romantically situated. Taking our departure from the town on the following morning, we observed that the fog, covering the surrounding landscape with a thick, impenetrable veil, increased in density until it seemed as if from moment to moment additional tints of sombre gray were united to the haze. In fact, after a while we were unable to discern the outline of the coast, having to pursue our way with great caution.
After the lapse of four anxious hours, we had the great satisfaction to hear the welcome sound of the fog-horn ofManistee, the county seat of Manistee County, in Michigan. It is situated at the mouth of the same-named river, which is navigable for vessels, drawing ten to twelve feet of water, for the distance of one and one-half miles to Manistee Lake. Largely engaged in lumber trade, the city has a score of saw-mills and about as many shingle-mills, the latter of which produce annually 450,000,000 shingles, the largest number made at any one place in the world. In consequence of the discovery in 1881 of a bed of solid salt, thirty feet thick, extensive salt factories are being built. The population of the city has rapidly increased in later years, comprising about 14,000 residents at present. The surrounding district is especially adapted for fruit-growing; and sportsmen are attracted to the Manistee River and its tributaries by the abundance of the otherwise rarely found grayling.
Since we expected company on board the "Marguerite" in the evening—Mr. Wilkinson, a citizen of Milwaukee, who intended to make us acquainted with his wife, we went on shore immediately after dinner to view the city, so as to return in time to meet our visitors.
Manistee made the impression of a flourishing business town. The comparatively long trading thoroughfare is a broad street nicely laid out, and adorned with numerous stately buildings and spacious stores.
Not long after our departure from Manistee, which occurred early on the following morning, a sudden squall threatened us; and a few minutes later, a terrific flash and peal broke almost simultaneously upon us, followed by a violent shower. Fortunately, it lasted but a short time. The tempest gradually ceased; the irregular and blinding flashes became fewer and the thunder rolled less loudly. Gradually the scene changed to one of peaceful beauty so that the rose light of the radiant sun-ball appeared in the heavens; casting a new glory on the picturesque scenery of water and shore.
The surface of the lake had become calm; and speeding along, we enjoyed the lovely weather which was not destined to continue. For, toward midday a fresh breeze rippled the waters that by degrees were transformed into towering waves, shaking their foamy crests, and tossing us angrily from side to side; and we were not sorry when we reached the harbor ofMuskegon, about six miles from Muskegon City, situated on the same-named river which here, four miles from its mouth, widens into Muskegon Lake. It is the best harbor on the east side of the great lake. The city has daily steamboat navigation with Chicago; and saws and ships enormous quantities of lumber. Its principal manufactories are a number of foundries, machine shops, and boiler works. The present population is estimated to comprise about 24,000.
While admiring the lovely scenery enhanced by an enchanting sunset, from the deck of the yacht, our attention was distracted by approaching footsteps. In the uncertain, fading daylight, we perceived a gentleman accompanied by a lady—curiously regarding us—whom we invited on board the "Marguerite."
Mrs. and Mr. Wickham were the names by which this fair couple was introduced. That they spent the evening in our company, was very acceptable to us—as we but rarely had visitors on our pilgrimage. They greatly admired our floating home, and as the moon arose to bathe us with his silvery light, they took their departure.
The young archer—morn—broke his arrows on the remote hills, walking golden-sandaled down the lake, when we continued our voyage.
The still waters were soon lashed into fury again by an unfavorable wind, increasing toward midday to such a degree that we were glad to take refuge in the harbor ofSouth Haven, where we lingered until the dawn of another day.
Opposite the mooring-place of the "Marguerite" stood an edifice whose interior we all longed to view. Having so unexpectedly become acquainted with the Life-Saving Service on the occasion of our adventure near Thunder Bay, we were anxious to learn more about that noble institution. In the afternoon we set out for the South Haven Life-Saving Station whose captain, an obliging gentleman, gave us very satisfactory explanations. He first called our attention to the splendid qualities of the life-boat: such as its power to right itself if upset; the capability of immediate self-discharge when filled with water; its strength; resistance to overturning; speed against a heavy sea; buoyancy; and facility in launching and taking the shore.
We then inspected the diverse apparatuses utilized for rescuing the shipwrecked.
A very clever contrivance, especially appropriate for saving invalids, children, and aged persons is the metallic car, a small covered boat, which can hold three or four persons who, entering by a comparatively small aperture, are shut in and drawn ashore, safely protected from injury even though overturned by the surf.
For projecting a line over a stranded vessel a howitzer is used; and in this way a communication is secured to the shore. The cork life-belts worn by the men, are of the plan first designed by Admiral Ward.
It is safe to say that the United States Life-Saving Service is chief among the life-boat societies of other nations, both as regards the extent of coast embraced, and the amount of work done. The whole support of this service is provided for by annual grants from Congress. Besides its vast coast line, it guards the shores of its great lakes. Since the sea-bordering portions of America in many places are destitute of human habitations, the constant employment of surfmen is required for the express purpose of looking out for vessels in distress and manning the surf-boats. It also necessitates the erection of houses of refuge provisioned so as to afford shelter and food to shipwrecked sailors for a considerable time at places, where without such provisions those who escape the sea, would probably perish from hunger and exposure.
The shores of the United States lakes and sea comprise over 10,000 miles, embracing almost every variety of climate and formation of land. This great extent of sea-board is divided into twelve districts with in all 244 stations. Of these 182 are on the Atlantic, forty-nine on the lakes, and twelve on the Pacific. Many of the stations are closed during the fine months of the year; their crews being disbanded till the winter gales again summon them to their heroic and dangerous work. That they render noble service in this way, may be gathered from the annual reports.
The official statement of 1893 shows that the disasters to shipping in that year amounted to 427 cases; that on board of vessels thus endangered there were 3,565 persons of whom 3,542 were saved.
After we had thus enriched our knowledge referring to this humane institution with its present effective system, we proceeded to the neighboring shore of Lake Michigan, here forming a beautiful beach. The polished and print-less sand studded with small, shining pepples spread before us in vast expanse; and the magnificent waters of the lake glittered in the sun-beams as though they were sown with diamonds. When the surf came in, and the white fringe of the sliding wave shot up the beach, the light color of the sand was deepened to a silvery gray. As much as we marred and defaced its fine-grained, bright surface, it was ever beaten down anew by the advancing and retreating waves. We had hardly deserted this lovely spot, when our foot prints were washed away by the ever returning sea.
On Monday at an advanced hour in the evening we departed from South Haven.Since the glories of the sunset, with its witchery of rose and gold,promised a fine night, we decided to continue our voyage as far asMichigan City.
The panorama we witnessed during that nocturnal trip was as magnificent as can be imagined. The full-orbed moon on the wave was beautiful; and so was the landscape bathed in its light.
Toward 10 o'clock we arrived at our destination, a town in La Porte Co.,Indiana.
Michigan Cityis the largest lumber-market in the State, and has numerous manufacturing establishments. As a lake-port, it is a place of considerable prosperity comprising a population of about 11,000.
It was in the early morning, Tuesday, August 22nd, that we left Michigan City. Having sailed along the coast of the lake for about three hours, we discerned in the misty distance the site of the "Queen of the West."
At twenty minutes to 9 o'clock, it became plainly cognizable. In transports of delight we glanced at a vast, verdant tract of land adorned with magnificent structures appearing to be of the purest marble; in their matchless beauty imparting to the mind some grand allegoricaltableau, intending to convey the poet's idea of the New Jerusalem.
It was the famousWhite City, the site of the World's Columbian Exposition, that charmed our eyes and gratified our taste so much. No one can adequately describe that sight as seen from the clear waters of the lake.—I imagine that our illustrious Columbus must have been equally affected as he beheld Guanahani, that fruitful island in its wild luxuriance, on his first landing in the New World.
Our arrival in Chicago put an end to our pleasurable voyage comprising the considerable length of 1,243 miles, during which
"The waves were our pillow,Our cradle the sea:When rough was the billowNot timid were we."
This westward trip afforded us every hour a revelation of the surprising growth of the nation that lives under the Stars and Stripes. My traveling companions were equally delighted with this course, notwithstanding their being preacquainted with that portion of the west, whose rapid development makes it practically a new and another west every ten years. In fact, America astonishes the world; and it is no common pleasure to study and note the progress of this great republic of which Chicago is the second city in commercial importance, as well as in population.
We were anxious to obtain an adequate conception of the site of a city that is the synonym of push and prosperity, and to which Congress had awarded the World's Columbian Exposition. Therefore, the yacht was moored inside the breakwater, near the mouth of the inlet, called the Chicago River, which runs from the lake nearly one mile westward; then separates into two branches, one flowing northwest, the other southwest; thus dividing Chicago into three divisions, connected by more than thirty-five bridges, and two tunnels laid under the bed of the river. This streamlet used to empty into Lake Michigan; but a remarkable piece of engineering caused it to change its course and so to speak, run "uphill." The Illinois and Michigan Canal, with which the main branch of the river is connected, was so deepened as to draw the water out from the lake, so that—through this channel emptying into the Illinois River—the water of Lake Michigan flows into the Gulf of Mexico by means of the Mississippi River. Had it been later in the season, we might have decided to follow this watercourse in order to view the fertile Mississippi River Valley, and to enjoy the beauties of the sunny south.
The largest vessels may be towed into the Chicago River, being supplied with docks and water-slips and affording a dockage capacity of nearly forty miles.—Originally named Chacaqua River, (the Indian word for thunder, after the Indian Thor or Thunder God), it is supposed to have given the city its name.
At midday we left our anchorage—on which the eye of heaven shone almost too hot—and undertook our first trip to the Fair Grounds. Seated on deck, we inhaled the invigorating, fresh breeze sweeping over the lake and modified by the burning rays of the sun that kissed the brilliant, blue waters beneath, with his golden face, gilding them with heavenly alchemy.
High ran our anticipations as we were approaching the renowned White City, to which representatives of all nations have made a pilgrimage.
At the expiration of about one-half hour, we reached the pier, destined for the halting-place of yachts; and welcomed by the supervisor of the harbor, we went on shore.
The first impression was bewildering. Americans have reason to be proud of what was to be viewed in Jackson Park; as such buildings no previous generations of men have seen, congregated in this manner; and the display of the achievements of science, art, and industries, exhibited in them, has undoubtedly eclipsed all other expositions in the world's annals of progress.
It seems impossible to give so adequate a pen-picture of the World's Fair as to impart to the reader an accurate idea of its true grandeur. Many minds have essayed already to reproduce what they have witnessed there; many pens have attempted to record exactly the incomparable impression the exposition effected upon its visitors, but, it is safe to say, without even faintly describing it; for, can language convey to a blind man what "color" means, or to a deaf person the meaning of music?—No more can the pen of the most gifted author adequately portray the World's Columbian Exposition. If one would give to each building a volume; a shelf to the Midway Plaisance; and to the exhibitions a whole library in way of description, yet half of its beauties and wonders would not be told.—
Leaving the "Marguerite" at the North Pier, our attention was called to a unique exhibit made by the U.S. Navy Department, a structure representing a faithful model of a modern coast-line battle-ship. This full-sized imitationman-of-war"Illinois"was completely equipped erected on piling on the lake front, and surrounded by water, so as to give the appearance of being moored to a wharf. Here the Government showed also a war baloon, a light-house, a life-saving station complete with apparatus, and a gun battery.
Proceeding a little westward, we viewed a building, delightfully located, bearing a strong resemblance to the National Museum at Washington. This imposing edifice classic in style, and adorned by a central octagonal dome was theUnited States Government Building; to the southward of which rose the largest of the Exposition structures, theManufactures and Liberal Arts Building, notable for its gigantic but symmetrical proportions, covering an area of more than thirty-one acres.
Looking in a southern direction, we caught sight of the pier extending 1,000 feet into the lake, and affording a landing-place for steamers. It was bounded on the east by the beautiful facade of theCasino, which presented a decidedly Venetian aspect; its nine pavilions being in communication both by gondolas and bridges. At the west end of the pier stood thirteen stately columns emblematic of the Thirteen Original States of the Union.
Rising out of the lagoon, the colossalStatue of the Republic,the largest ever built in America, predominated over this charming scene.
Beyond it extended a broad basin from which grassy terraces and broad walks led on the southward to one of the most magnificent edifices raised for the exposition, theAgricultural Building. In style of architecture it pertained to the classic renaissance and was erected at a cost of about $1,000,000.
From the pier westward across the park, we walked through an avenue, several feet long; affording a view of almost unparalleled splendor. Encompassing a beautiful sheet of water, the majestic facades of imposing buildings attracted our eyes; above all, a superb guilded dome shimmering in the sun-light, and pertaining to theAdministration Building,which was pronounced the gem and crown of the Exposition structures. In general design in the style of the French renaissance, it was built at an expense of about $550,000.
Located at the extreme south of the park rose the statelyMachinery Hall, following classical models throughout, and being especially rich in architectural lines and details. Its construction required a sum of $1,000,000.
Facing the Grand Avenue, our eyes rested with delight upon two immense edifices on either side of the Administration Building, one for theElectricaland the other for theMining Exhibit.
Turning to the northward, we viewed theTransportation Building,exquisitely refined and simple in architectural treatment, although very rich and costly in detail.
On our right we beheld one of the most notable spots in Jackson Park, (viz)Wooded Island, a gem of primitive nature, agreeably contrasting with the grand productions of human skill surrounding it. Close by was thePalace of Horticulture,the largest structure ever erected for such purpose, costing about $400,000.
Proceeding more northward, we reached the entrance to theMidway Plaisance, directly east of which stood, encompassed by luxuriant shrubs and beds of fragrant flowers, like a white silhouette against the background of old and stately oaks, the daintily designedWoman's Building.
On a well paved boulevard we entered the great "Highway through the Nations." Formerly a promenade belonging to the South Park System and connecting Jackson Park on the east and Washington Park on the west, it was styled by the seekers ofplaisir"Midway Plaisance" signifying "Pleasure-Way." This name has been retained by the Administration of the World's Fair, whereas the country-lane of former times had undergone a complete metamorphosis. We were unable to realize the radical character of the transformation as we contemplated the enormous variety of attractions here presented, more numerous and unlike any others ever brought together. Therefore, it is a very difficult task to give the reader an exact idea of the impression the Midway Plaisance effected upon its visitors, because we generally derive our conception of a scene from the comparison it will bear with similar spectacles.
The "Highway through the Nations" constituted an attractive, novel, and instructive addition to the Exposition. For, besides enlightening ourselves in regard to the styles of structures—inhabited by the diverse nations on the earth,—forming a fine array of villages, castles, towers, pavilions, pagodas, mosques, and other displays of oriental and occidental architecture, we viewed the natives of the various countries. There were representatives of nearly all the races and tribes, constituting the human population on our planet which is estimated to amount to 1,500,000,000 men. We had a chance to study their features, manners, and customs; their way of dressing, as well as their language and special occupations. Such opportunities are only otherwise given to travelers around the globe.
The rays of the descending sun—casting rosy reflections on the beautiful panorama and the mammothFerris Wheel, with its gigantic form overtowering the structures of the Midway Plaisance—gave us the signal for abandoning this charming realm.
Thus, directing our steps toward the Exposition Grounds, we arrived at the northwestern portion of Jackson Park where we ascended the entrance to a station of theColumbian Intramural Railway, the first and only electric elevated railroad, operated by the Third Rail Trolley System.—Conveyed by the driving power of electricity, we had a delightful ride affording a fine view upon the northern part of the grounds. Scores of graceful structures constituting a veritable town of palaces, embodied the best conceptions of America's greatest architectural display.
A picturesque group of buildings erected by the States and Territories of the American Union, rose in a semicircle around theFine Arts Galleries, a palace costing half a million. Grecian-ionic in style, this edifice represented a pure type of the most refined classic architecture. In the western portion of this group—facing the North Pond—stood theIllinois Building, adorned by a dome in the center, and a great porch looking southward.
Surrounded by lawns, walks, beds of flowers, and shrubs, the charming structures of Foreign Nations were ranged on wide, curved avenues— affording an interesting aspect.
Just south of theForeignandState Buildingswe observed a considerable expanse of the lagoon, with inlet to the lake, encompassing three islands. On the largest one stood—contrasting agreeably in appearance with the other edifices—theU.S. Fisheries Building, Spanish-Romanesque in style and flanked at each end by a curved arcade connecting it with two polygonal pavilions.
Leaving the Intramural Train at the North Loop, we arrived at theGovernment Building; thus having completed our round-trip on the FairGrounds and Midway Plaisance.
When we returned to our floating home, we had the satisfaction of having obtained the best possible results of our first visit by properly utilizing every minute.
It will be obvious to the reader that the excursion just described, was equivalent to a trip around the world; wherefore I am entitled to the assertion that it even surpassed Nellie Bly's remarkable feat who needed seventy-two days, six hours, and eleven minutes for accomplishing her circumterraneous voyage.
This success was due to the management of Mr. James, who made his intelligence effectual, in unison with great experience, gained by having attended the grand international expositions held in the course of several decades in the different sections of the globe.
Since there did not exist accommodations for a safe anchorage for yachts along the piers of the White City, we were obliged to sail back to the Chicago Harbor. The ride on the billows of Lake Michigan, however, was very enjoyable after the heat of the day. Fanned by the cooling sea-breezes, which we inhaled in the fullness of delight, our eyes rested in perfect rapture on the glorious panorama of the grounds extending toward the lake shore. The superb structures rising vaguely and obscurely in a shadowy expanse under the gloom of the growing twilight, were later beautifully illuminated by uncountable electric lights; from the powerful arc-light of 8,000 candles to the delicate incandescent lamp of one-sixteenth candle power gleaming like tiny fire-flies in the distance. It filled us with amazement to cogitate, that human mind and manual skill could create a spot on earth looking so much like a conception of paradise.
The next morning when corroborating our nerves by a hearty breakfast, Mr. James announced to us the programme of the day which set forth that we should witness in detail the attractions of the Midway Plaisance—a proposal that pleased us very much.
Having again disembarked at the pier of the Exposition Grounds, the Intramural Railway conveyed us rapidly—running with a velocity of twelve miles an hour—to the entrance of the International Highway.
We commenced with the attractions at the right hand side—and having passed the displays of theDiamond Match Companyand theWorkingmen's Home—the international Dress and Costume Exhibit, known as theCongress of Beauty,attracted our attention. Between forty and fifty pretty living representatives pertaining to the fair sex of different nationalities, races, and types were dressed in distinctive national or racial costumes.
TheCalifornia NurseryandCitrus Tree Exhibitseparated this Beauty Show from theElectric Scenic Theater, which may be regarded as a triumph of the modern progress in the electrical science. It depicted the changes of a beautiful Swiss Alpine scenery as such are gradually occurring from dawn till night—representing the magical and most wonderfully realistic effects ever produced by electric lamps.
Visiting theLibbey Glass Works, we obtained a very clear idea of the art of manufacturing glass—by following up the different processes of melting, blowing, cutting, spinning, weaving etc. all of which were in full operation in this exhibit.
In fact, the endeavor of this company to instruct the spectator in every detail of the work—was a complete success and exceedingly satisfactory. The ingenious construction of their magnificent building was especially adapted to enable the daily throngs—resorting to it—to have every opportunity for observation; and judging from what we saw, and the various comments we heard, we should be inclined to feel that the management had every reason to be satisfied with their splendid effort.
The artistic products manufactured solely by this company, and shown in the diverse departments—as well as those, decorating the Crystal Art Display Rooms—equal anything in the past and present, not excepting the celebrated Bohemian and Venetian manufactures of world-wide fame; and certainly the exhibition of cut glass made by the Libbey Company at this Exposition, has established the fact, that foreign manufactures can no longer claim to turn out the best artistic work; for truly, in that rich and unrivaled display, the summit of clear glass making and magical effects in cutting and polishing have been achieved.
Especially attractive were the tapestries and fabrics woven from spun glass. This was decidedly notable in the marvelous dress woven from one loom for the Spanish Princess Eulalia at a cost of $2,500. That these goods also serve as a canvas does for artistic work—was evidently proved by the sundry beautiful effects of this kind in the Crystal Art Room.—It would be impossible to enumerate the various articles produced in this wonderful and interesting display; but it is safe to say—the working exhibit of the Libbey Glass Company—in their palatial and costly structure was one of the chief features of the Midway Plaisance and the ever memorable Columbian Exposition.
A gateway—reminding us of mediaeval times—ushered the visitor into theIrish VillageandDonegal Castle, a representative exhibit of Irish industry, art, and antiquity. The scenes there—were picturesque and uniquely Hibernian. In one of the cottages Irish lace-making could be noted; in another was shown by Hibernians the whole process of dyeing, carding, spinning and weaving home-spuns as well as various other branches of industrial developments in Ireland.
A few steps sufficed to transfer us from here—a representation of the extreme western portion of Europe to the most eastern country on the Eastern Hemisphere—Japan; which fact demonstrated the verity:Les extrêmes se touchent. Entering the Japanese bazaar, we observed Japanese ladies and gentlemen selling articles manufactured in—and imported from Nipon.
A highly interesting study of the natives of West Java (Dutch East Indies)—their occupations—and their bamboo huts—could be had in theJavanese Villageexhibiting more than a hundred little men with bright and cheerful Malay faces, and thirty-six short women whose graceful movements were a source of attraction to thousands of visitors.
This scene of the tropical regions stood in striking contrast with a feature in immediate nearness—pertaining to a temperate clime—theGerman Village. Here, in the spacious concert-garden shaded by the dense foliage of numerous oak-trees, two German military bands, one of the infantry and one of the cavalry—seventy-four men in all—gave grandecht deutsche Militaerconcerte. The group of typical German peasant homes, the Black Forest House, the Westphalian Inn, the Upper Bavarian Home, and the Spreewald House, together with the Hessian Rural Town-hall, and the Castle were exact reproductions of mediaeval times. A portion of this stronghold from a remote date, was given up to the ethnographic museum; a collection chiefly of implements of war and of chase, illustrative of all periods beginning with the pre-historic and ending with the renaissance. An attractive group in wax constituted the figure of Germania, surrounded by German heroes from Arminius down to William I.
ThePompeii Panorama—near by—showed a very realistic representation of this city destroyed by the eruption of the Vesuvius in 79. This display was succeeded by thePersian Theaterand theModel of the Eiffel Tower.
We left the crowded roadway, and entered the narrowStreet in Cairowhich made an imposing impression with its strange, oriental facades—the picturesque shops—and the quaint overhanging upper stories of the ancient Egyptian city. Natives of this African country—which is fertilized by the waters of the Nile—manufactured and had for sale Egyptian, Arabian, and Soudanese articles. Donkeys and camels were engaged in carrying visitors who chose to admire the busy thoroughfare seated on the backs of these animals. The native camel-drivers in their national costumes moved around and mingled with the strangers—which gave the populated street a peculiar charm to the eye, whereas the "Bum-Bum Candy" sold by Egyptian confectioners, afforded a strange sensation to the palate of the visitor.
Here, where the architecture, the surroundings, and the people were as far removed from anything American as could well be imagined, we really—for some minutes—were lost to all consciousness of being in that extremely modern city, called Chicago.
After having viewed the side attractions to which belonged the Egyptian temple—resembling the temple of Luxor—the tombs of the ancient kings, and fac-similes of mummies, we entered theAlgerian and Tunisian Village. Besides a theater, it contained a great number of booths or bazaars in which a choice selection of goods of all kinds—peculiar to Algiers—was for sale.
Proceeding southward through the frequented avenue, we saw—in succession—theKilauea Panorama, a vivid picture of the great volcano ofHawaii, with all the surrounding scenery—anAmerican Indian Village, showing the remnants of some of the greatest North American Indian tribes, and their manner of living—and aChinese Villageincluding a theater, a joss house, and a bazaar.
The most southwestern portion of the Midway Plaisance was occupied by the "Wild East Show" where performances were given by Bedouin Arabs. With their short Turkish swords—the cimeters—they accomplished feats of such intrepidity and daring as to cause the spectators' blood to coagulate in their veins.
Bending our steps westward again, our attention was fixed upon the attractions on the north;id eston our right hand side.
Very striking to our eyes were two exhibits the comparison of which established the fact that they were as unlike each other as could be fancied. Not only that the two villages contrasted greatly by their external appearance; but the scenes and inhabitants that they encompassed, were in direct opposition. Reader, can you realize that here from the North Pole to the Equator there was but one step?Laplanders, from the Arctic region in Europe, the next-door neighbors of barbarians from the Torrid Zone in Africa? Although both low in the scale of humanity, the fierce and savageNatives of Dahomeywith their repulsive habits exhibited the characteristics of the very undermost order of mankind.
But the mind was at once relieved from this sad picture of human debasement by the refined and attractive scenes in theAustrian Village, inclosing realistic reproductions of thirty-six buildings as they existed, more than a century ago, in old Vienna, deservedly eulogized in the song:
Es gibt nur a KaiserstadtEs gibt nur a Wien;Da muss es praechtig sein,Da moecht' ich hin!
Having arrived at the center of the spacious promenade, we ascended one of the six northern platforms, communicating by turns with thirty-six aerial coaches, suspended by an iron axle to the periphery of the mammothFerris Wheel. A conductor invited us to step into a coach, as the appropriate moment had arrived, whereupon we entered a car having the seating capacity of forty persons, and almost the size of an ordinary Pullman Palace Car. Ere we were conscious of any movement, the monster wheel was slowly revolving in response to the powerful machinery by which it was operated—a trophy of the modern era of eminent progress. The total weight of the moving mass was 1,200 tons; and its construction involved the expenditure of $400,000. Reader, if you have not experienced the charm of this circular ride through a circumference of about 785 feet, you hardly can convey to your mind the conception of the fascination it afforded. Since the motion of the coaches was almost imperceptible, we could enjoy the trip—(viz)—two complete revolutions of the wheel—without the least excitement naturally aroused by rapid movement. Imagine the sensation of being carried up 250 feet on one side—and of being slowly lowered on the other; fancy the enjoyment and delight when gradually gaining a complete view of the Fair Grounds and the Midway Plaisance—a bird's eye-view of the whole of Chicago—and also a good portion of Lake Michigan. Dear reader, you will certainly acknowledge the fact that such a ride surpassed any similar brief journey ever taken. For, what other device for transportation can maintain the claim of enabling its passengers to look upon the whole world during twenty-five minutes!—
"When you get used to the motionOnly delight you will feel:Gone is each terrified notionOnce in the circle of steel.And you enjoy the commotionClap and applaud with much zeal:For it surpasses old oceanTo ride in the great 'Ferris Wheel.'"
The sun—being almost too liberal in the expenditure of heat—made us long for a refreshing breeze. Therefore we decided to ride in theIce-Railway.Here we had opportunity to feel the excitement caused by velocity of motion. For a seventy mile-an-hour locomotive would have been monotonous and tiresome in comparison with a dash around the ice-railway track, containing 850 feet, and covering an elliptic space whose surface had a coat of ice nearly an inch thick. Over this smooth and glistening substance the bobsleigh was gliding with the speed of a toboggan and the ease of a coaster to the merry jingle of sleigh bells.
This exhibit—whose cost amounted to $100,000—gave an example of inventive genius, and also of the successful application—in a novel manner—of the principles of refrigeration.
The beautiful building next to the Ice Railway environed an excellent imitationen miniatureof the magnificentCathedral of St. Peterin Rome, its size being one-sixteenth of the original. When viewing this model, the elaborate papal throne, and the Vatican Guards in the exact uniform of the pope's attendants, one might imagine to have been conveyed intola bella Italiaby the agency of a magic wand.
Promenading more eastward, we found ourselvesvis-a-vistheMoorishPalace, a fine reproduction of Saracenic architecture, the famousAlhambra in Granada, Spain.
The attractions exhibited in the interior of this structure could, indeed, bear a comparison with those offered in a realm of enchantment. The optical illusions, produced by ingeniously arranged mirrors, were a pleasing surprise to the visitor. Luxuriant palms decorating the labyrinthian garden appeared to be endless in number—casting their shade over hundreds of life-like figures in gaudy costumes. Each of these groups in wax, was multiplied again and again in the perspective of mirrors. Entering the palace, the visitor was unable to shake off the feeling of perplexity caused by the extraordinary spectacles to be witnessed within its walls. The most startling surprises were the bottomless well, the cave, the monster kaleidoscope, and the panopticon. A touching scene, produced in wax, represented the execution of the unfortunate Queen Marie Antoinette. So realistic was its effect that many tender-hearted mortals could not refrain from shedding tears of sympathy for the ill-fated consort of Louis XVI of France.
A personage of special interest in theTurkish Villagewas "Far-a-way Moses"—the celebrated guide and counselor of Americans, visiting the shores of the Bosporus—who has been immortalized by Mark Twain. With a pleasant smile his popular face, he gave a cordial greeting to every visitor.
The various scenes constituted a true reproduction of Ottoman life. The decorations in the Turkish theater were in purely oriental style; and the representations on the stage showed the manners and customs of the countries embracing the Turkish Empire. The Bedouin Camp, north of the grand bazaar, displayed the peculiarities of a nomadic life of those Arabian tribes.
Adjacent to a Turkish cafe, thePanorama of the Bernese Alpswas on exhibition. A beautiful painting showed the grand scenery of Grindelwald, the Wetterhorn, the Jungfrau, Schreckhorn, Jura, the village of Lauterbrunnen, and the little town of Thun.
Ushered by a gate into theJohore Village, we viewed the habitations, weapons, apparels, and curiosities of that Malay tribe. The performance given by one of the natives stood in striking contrast with what we understand by the art of dancing. In fact, it was more a series of graceful poses with slow rythmic movements of hands and feet. This peculiar dance effected a strange impression upon us; but seemed to amuse our Baby Virginia beyond measure, who, on the arms of her faithful nurse, attempted to produce movements similar to those she had just witnessed.
TheSouth Sea Islanders' Villageexhibited Malays from Sumatra, Borneo, Samoa, Fiji, New Zealand, and other islands belonging to Oceanica. The huts and their occupants had a strong resemblance with those of the Javanese village whose inhabitants, however, were more agreeable-looking people.
Paying a visit toHagenbeck's Zoological Arena, we first admired his famous menagerie, which comprised rare varieties of quadrupeds, and a fine collection of birds.
In a circus modeled on the plan of the Coliseum of Rome, we witnessed performances that evinced the wonderful docility Mr. Hagenbeck's animals possess, and manifested the complete control their trainers have over them.
We had already seen innumerable circus feats; but those performed on this occasion, surpassed them all. For, such a perfection in training ferocious animals is extremely rare.Vraiment, the five Nubian giant lions afforded an imposing aspect; and their performances were simply marvelous, indicating that—while human ingenuity and skill subdued the great forces of nature to the use of mankind—also the fierce, majestic king of beasts is made submissive to man's will by his master power over all.
Industrial,Mining,Diving, andHorticultural Exhibitsoccupied the remaining space of this eastern portion, whose extremity was taken up byLady Aberdeen's Irish Village. Here the displays were similar to those inclosed in Mrs. Hart's Irish Village, already described; but the novel feature ofBlarney Castlewas the renowned Magic Stone, supposed to possess extraordinary virtues.
Thus, the unique Highway through the Nations afforded a prolific source for sight-seeing, and furthermore, was a sore trial to our organs of hearing. Musical and unmusical instruments of every description were in operation—from the Javanese salendon and pelog to the tuneful instruments, masterly handled by the excellent German bands.
This visit to the Midway Plaisance established the fact, that the theories—admitted by the study of geography—could not be brought into consideration. How should space and time be in existence when a few steps sufficed to convey us from the land of perpetual snow to the zone of exotic plants and tropical fruit!
"Who can all the tribes and nations nameThat to Plaisance from every climate came?"
The Chinese and Turk, German and Cingalese, Esquimaux and Javanese,Irishman and Polynesian, Bedouin and Laplander, Austrian and Soudanese,Syrian, Nubian, and Japanese—all had a temporary home within the limitsof a tract of land covering eighty acres.
The sinking sun which crimsoned the structures of the Midway Plaisance, exhorted us to abandon this place of internationalrendez-vous—and to return on board the "Marguerite;" since she was to convey us back to the Chicago Harbor.
Gliding along on the crystalline lake,
"We breathed the airs, not ruffling its face.Until we came to a quiet place."
The latter we chose for our nightly abode; again casting anchor in the so-called Basin near the Chicago Breakwater.