C
ACTUSES may be multiplied from cuttings of the stems, from seeds, and also by means of grafting; this last method being adopted for those species which, under cultivation, are not easily kept in health when growing upon their own roots, or, as in the case of Epiphyllums, when it offers a means of speedily forming large and shapely specimens. From seeds the plants are generally freer in growth than when cuttings are used, although the seedlings are longer in growing into flowering specimens than large cuttings would be. To the amateur, the process of germination and development from the seedling to the mature stage, is full of interest and attraction, the changes from one form to another as the plant develops being very marked in most of the genera.
Seeds.—Good fresh seeds of Cactaceous plants germinate in from two to four weeks after sowing, if placed in a warm house or on a hotbed with a temperature of 80 degs. If sown in a lower temperature, the time they take to vegetate is longer; but, unless in a very low degree of heat, the seeds, if good, and if properly managed as regards soil and water, rarely fail to germinate. For all the kinds, pots or pans containing drainage to within 2 in. of the top, and then filled up with finely sifted loam and sand, three parts of the former to one of the latter, and pressed down moderately firm, will be found to answer. If the soil be moist at the time of sowing the seeds, it will not be necessary to water it for a day or two. The seeds should be scattered thinly over the surface of the soil, and then covered with about 1/8 in. of soil. Over this, a pane of glass may be placed, and should remain till the seedlings appear above the soil. Should the position where the seeds are to be raised be in a room window, this pane of glass will be found very useful in preventing the dry air of the room from absorbing all the moisture from the soil about the seeds. For the germination of Cactus, and indeed of all seeds, a certain amount of moisture must be constantly present in the soil; and after a seed has commenced to grow, to allow it to get dry is to run the risk of killing it.
SEEDLINGS OF CEREUSFIG. 4.—SEEDLINGS OF CEREUS.
FIG. 4.—SEEDLINGS OF CEREUS.
a,
One month after germination.
b,
Two months after germination.
c,
Three months after germination. (Magnified six times).
The seeds of Cactuses may be sown at anytime in the year; but it is best to sow in spring, as, after germinating, the young plants have the summer before them in which to attain sufficient strength to enable them to pass through the winter without suffering; whereas plants raised from autumn-sown seeds have often a poor chance of surviving through the winter, unless treated with great care. The seeds of all Cactuses are small, and therefore the seedlings are at first tiny globular masses of watery flesh, very different from what we find in the seedlings of ordinary garden plants. The form of the seedling of a species of Cereus is shown at Fig. 4, and its transition from a small globule-like mass of flesh to the spine-clothed stem, which characterises this genus, is also represented. Atawe see the young plant after it has emerged from the seed, the outer shell of which was attached to one of the sides of the aperture at the top till about a week before the drawing was made. Atb,the further swelling and opening out, as it were, of what, in botanical language, is known as the cotyledon stage of development, will be seen; a month afterwards, this will have assumed the shape of a very small Cereus. It is interesting to note how the soft fleshy mass which first grows out of the seed is nothing more than a little bag of food with a tiny growing point fixed in its top, and that, as the growing point increases, the food bag decreases, till finally the whole of the latter becomes absorbed into the young stem, which is now capable of obtaining nourishment by means of its newly-formed roots.
seedlings of opuntia, showing mode of germinationFIG. 5.—SEEDLINGS OF OPUNTIA, SHOWING MODE OF GERMINATION.
FIG. 5.—SEEDLINGS OF OPUNTIA, SHOWING MODE OF GERMINATION.
In the genus Opuntia, the cotyledon stage (see Fig. 5) of the plant is different from that of the Cereus, and is more like that of a cucumber. Still, though the form is different, the purpose of the two cotyledons and the juicy stem in the seedling Opuntia is the same as in the Cereus; and, as the growing point develops, the cotyledons shrivel up and fall off, the plant food they contained having passed into that part of the young seedling which was to be permanent. The seedlings of these two genera serve as an illustration of the process of germination from seed of all the Cactuses; and it must be evident that there is much that is singular and full of interest in raising these plants from seeds. As soon as the seedlings are large enough to be handled, they may be planted separately in small pots, using a compost similar to, but slightly coarser than, that in which the seeds were sown. The soil should be kept moist till the summer is over; and after that, till the return of warm sunny weather, it will be found safest to keep the seedlings on the dry side, a little water only to be given at intervals of a week, and only when the sun is shining upon the plants.
To obtain seeds from cultivated plants, it is necessary, in order to insure fertilisation that the top of the stigma (see Fig. 2) should be dusted over with the dust-like pollen from the anthers. This may be done by means of a small camel-hair brush, which should be moistened in the mouth and then pushed among the anthers till covered with pollen, which may then be gently rubbed on to the stigma. A warm, sunny morning is the most suitable time for this operation, as fertilisation takes place much more readily under the influence of bright sunshine than at any other time. Some of the kinds have their floral organs so arranged as to be capable of self-fertilisation; still, it is always as well to give them some assistance. The night-flowering species must, of course, be fertilised either at night or very early in the morning. By using the pollen from one kind for dusting on to the stigma of another, hybrids may be obtained, and it is owing to the readiness with which the plants of this family cross with each other, that so many hybrids and forms of the genera Epiphyllum and Phyllocactus have been raised. It would be useless to attempt such a cross as Epiphyllum withCereus giganteus,because of their widely different natures; but such crosses as Epiphyllum with Phyllocactus, andCereus flagelliformiswithC. speciosissimus,have been brought about. To an enthusiast, the whole order offers a very good field for operations with a view to the production of new sorts, as the different kinds cross freely with each other, and the beautiful colours of the flowers would most likely combine so as to present some new and distinct varieties.
Cuttings.—No plants are more readily increased from stem-cuttings than Cactuses; for, be the cutting 20 ft. high, or only as large as a thimble, it strikes root readily if placed in a warm temperature and kept slightly moist. We have already seen how, even in the dry atmosphere of a museum, a stem of Cereus, instead of perishing, emitted roots and remained healthy for a considerable time, and it would be easy to add to this numerous other instances of the remarkable tenacity of life possessed by these plants. At Kew, it is the common practice, when the large-growing specimens get too tall for the house in which they are grown, to cut off the top of the stem to a length of 6 ft. or 8 ft., and plant it in a pot of soil to form a new plant. The old base is kept for stock, as it often happens that just below the point where the stem was severed, lateral buds are developed, and these, when grown into branches, are removed and used as cuttings. Large Opuntias are treated in the same way, with the almost invariable result that even the largest branches root freely, and are in no way injured by what appears to be exceedingly rough treatment. Large cuttings striking root so freely, it must follow that small cuttings will likewise soon form roots, and, so far as our experience—which consists of some years with a very large collection of Cactuses—goes, there is not one species in cultivation which may not be easily multiplied by means of cuttings. The nature of a Cactus stem is so very different from the stems of most other plants, that no comparison can be made between them in respect of their root-developing power; the rooting of a Cactus cutting being as certain as the rooting of a bulb. The very soft, fleshy stems of some of the kinds such as the Echinocactus, should be exposed to the air for a time, so that the cut at the base may dry before it is buried in the soil. If the base of a plant decays, all that is necessary is the removal of the decayed portion, exposure of the wound to the air for two or three days, and then the planting of the cutting in a dry, sandy soil, and placing it in a warm moist house till rooted. All cuttings of Cactuses may be treated in this way. If anything proves destructive to these cuttings, it is excessive moisture in the soil, which must always be carefully guarded against.
Grafting.—The object of grafting is generally either to effect certain changes in the nature of the scion, by uniting it with a stock of a character different from its own, which usually results in the better production of flowers, fruit, &c., or to multiply those plants which are not readily increased by the more ordinary methods of cuttings or seeds. In the case of Cactuses, however, we resort to grafting, not because of any difficulty in obtaining the kinds thus treated from either cuttings or seeds, as we have already seen that all the species of Cactuses grow freely from seed, or are easily raised from cuttings of their stems, nor yet to effect any change in the characters of the plants thus treated, but because some of the more delicate kinds, and especially the smaller ones, are apt to rot at the base during the damp, foggy weather of our winters; and, to prevent this, it is found a good and safe plan to graft them on to stocks formed of more robust kinds, or even on to plants of other genera, such as Cereus or Echinocactus. By this means, the delicate plants are raised above the soil whence the injury in winter usually arises, and they are also kept well supplied with food by the more robust and active nature of the roots of the plant upon which they are grafted. Grafting is also adopted for some of the Cactuses to add to the grotesqueness of their appearance; a spherical Echinocactus or Mamillaria being united to the columnar stem of another kind, so as to produce the appearance of a drum stick; or a large round-growing species grafted on to three such stems, which may then be likened to a globe supported upon three columns. As the species and genera unite freely with each other, it is possible to produce, by means of grafting, some very extraordinary-looking plants, and to a lover of the incongruous and "queer," these plants will afford much interest and amusement. Besides the above, we graft Epiphyllums, and the long drooping Cereuses, such asC. flagelliformis, because of their pendent habit, and which, therefore, are seen to better advantage when growing from the tall erect stem of some stouter kind, than if allowed to grow on their own roots. By growing a Pereskia on into a large plant, and then cutting it into any shape desired, we may, by grafting upon its spurs or branches a number of pieces of Epiphyllum, obtain large flowering specimens of various shapes in a comparatively short time. For general purposes, it is usual to graft Epiphyllums on to stems, about 1 ft. high, ofPereskia aculeata;pretty little standard plants being in this way formed in about a year from the time of grafting, As an instance of how easily some kinds may be grafted, we may note what was done with a large head of the Rat's-tail Cactus which had been grown for some years on the stem ofCereus rostratus,but which last year rotted off just below the point of union. On re-grafting this head on to the Cereus a little lower down, it failed to unite, and, attributing the failure to possible ill-health in the stock, we determined to transfer the Rat's-tail Cactus to a large stem ofPereskia aculeata,the result being a quick union and rapid, healthy growth since. Upon the same stock some grafts of Epiphyllum had previously been worked, so that it is probable these two aliens will form on their nurse-stem, the Pereskia, an attractive combination. In Fig. 6 we have a fine example of this kind of grafting. It represents a stem ofPereskia Bleoupon which the Rat's-tail Cactus and an Epiphyllum have been grafted.
pereskia bleo, with epiphyllum and cereus flagelliformis grafted upon itFIG. 6.—PERESKIA BLEO, WITH EPIPHYLLUM AND CEREUS FLAGELLIFORMIS GRAFTED UPON IT
FIG. 6.—PERESKIA BLEO, WITH EPIPHYLLUM AND CEREUS FLAGELLIFORMIS GRAFTED UPON IT
For most plants the operation of grafting must be carefully and skilfully performed, but in the case of Cactuses very little skill is necessary if one or two rules, which apply to all kinds of grafting, are observed. The period of vigorous growth, and while the sap of both the stock and the scion is in motion, is the most favourable time for the operation. It is then only necessary, in order to bring about a speedy union, that the parts grafted should be cut so as to fit each other properly, and then bound or in some way fastened together so that they will remain in close contact with each other till a union is effected. A close atmosphere and, if possible, a little shade should be afforded the worked plants till the grafts have taken. The ligature used should not be bound round the graft too tightly, or it will prevent the flow of the sap; if bound tightly enough to hold the parts together and to prevent their slipping, that will be found quite sufficient.
Epiphyllums are treated as follows: Cuttings of Pereskia are rooted and grown on to the required size, and in the month of September they are headed down, the tops being used as cuttings. Grafts of Epiphyllum are then prepared by cutting them to the required length, usually about 6 in., and removing a thin slice of the fleshy stem on each side so as to form a flat wedge. The stem of Pereskia is then split down about 1 in. with a sharp knife, and into this the wedge of the graft is inserted, and fastened either by means of a small pin passed through the stem and graft about half-way up the slit, or by binding round them a little worsted or matting, the former being preferred. The worked plants are then placed in a close handlight or propagating frame, having a temperature of about 75 degs., where they are kept moist by sprinkling them daily with water; they must be shaded from bright sunlight. As soon as a union has been effected, which will be seen by the grafts beginning to grow, the ligature and pin should be removed, and the plants gradually hardened off by admitting air to the box, till finally they may be removed to the house where it is intended to grow them. In a cottage window this operation may be successfully performed if a box with a movable glass top, or a large bell glass, be used to keep the grafts close till they have taken.
For the spherical-stemmed kinds of Mamillaria, Cereus, Echinocactus, &c., a different method is found to answer. Instead of cutting the base of the graft to a wedge shape, it is simply cut across the base horizontally, or, in other words, a portion of the bottom of the graft is sliced off, and a stock procured which, when cut across the top, will about fit the wound at the base of the scion; the two sliced parts are placed together, and secured either by passing a piece of matting a few times over the top of the graft and under the pot containing the stock, or by placing three stakes around it in such a way that, when tied together at the top, they will hold the graft firmly in position. Another method is that of cutting the base of the scion in the form of a round wedge, and then scooping a hole out in the centre of the stock large enough to fit this wedge; the scion is pressed into this, and then secured in the manner above mentioned. To graft one spherical-stemmed kind on to three columnar-stemmed ones, the latter must first be established in one pot and, when ready for grafting, cut at the top into rounded wedges, three holes to correspond being cut into the scion. When fixed, the top should be securely fastened by tying it to the pot, or by means of stakes. For this last operation, a little patience and care are necessary to make the stocks and scions fit properly; but if the rules that apply to grafting are properly followed, there will be little fear of the operation failing. In the accompanying illustrations, we have a small Mamillaria stem grafted on to the apex of the tall quadrangular-stemmed, night-flowering Cereus (Fig. 7), and also a cylindrical-stemmed Opuntia worked on a branch of the flat, battledore-like Indian Fig (Fig. 8.)
graft of mamillaria recurva on cereus nycticalusgraft of opuntia decipiens on o. ficus-indicaFIG. 7.—GRAFT OF MAMILLARIA RECURVA ON CEREUS NYCTICALUSFIG. 8.—GRAFT OF OPUNTIA DECIPIENS ON O. FICUS-INDICA
In the hands of a skilful cultivator, the different Cactuses may be made to unite with one another almost as easily as clay under the moulder's hands; whilst even to the amateur, Cactuses afford the easiest of subjects for observing the results of grafting.
I
T is now about a century since some of the most beautiful of Cactaceous plants came into cultivation in this country, and amongst them was the plant now known asE. truncatum,but then calledCactus Epiphyllum;the name Cactus being used in a generic sense, and not, as now, merely as a general term for the Natural Order. Introduced so early, and at once finding great favour as a curious and beautiful flowering plant,E. truncatumhas been, and is still, extensively cultivated, and numerous varieties of it have, as a consequence, originated in English gardens. We do not use the seeds of these plants for their propagation, unless new varieties are desired, when we must begin by fertilising the flowers, and thus obtain seeds, which should be sown and grown on till the plants flower.
Epiphyllums have already "broken" from their original or wild characters, and are, therefore, likely to yield distinct varieties from the first sowing. In the forests which clothe the slopes of the Organ Mountains, in Brazil, the Epiphyllums are found in great abundance, growing upon the trunks and branches of large trees, and occasionally on the ground or upon rocks, up to an elevation of 6000 ft. It was here that Gardner, when travelling in South America, foundE. truncatumgrowing in great luxuriance, and along with it the species known asE. Russellianum,which he sent to the Duke of Bedford's garden, at Woburn, in 1839. These two species are the only ones now recognised by botanists, all the other cultivated kinds being either varieties of, or crosses raised from, them.
The character by which Epiphyllums are distinguished from other Cactuses, is their flattened, long, slender branches, which are formed of succulent, green, leaf-like branchlets, growing out of the ends of each other, to a length of from 3 ft. to 4 ft. As in the majority of Cactuses, the stems of Epiphyllum become woody and almost cylindrical with age, the axes of the branchlets swell out, and the edges either disappear or remain attached, like a pair of wings.
Cultivation.—Epiphyllums require the temperature of an intermediate house in winter, whilst, in summer, any position where they can be kept a little close and moist, and be shaded from bright sunshine, will suit them. Remembering that their habit, when wild, is to grow upon the trunks of trees, where they would be afforded considerable shade by the overhanging branches, we cannot be wrong in shading them from direct sunshine during summer. Some growers recommend placing these plants in a hot, dry house; but we have never seen good specimens cultivated under such conditions. All through the summer months, the plants should be syringed both morning and evening; but by the end of August they will have completed their growth, and should, therefore, be gradually exposed to sunshine and air.
It is advisable to discontinue the use of the syringe from September till the return of spring, but the plants should always be kept supplied with a little moisture at the root and in the air about them during the winter months. In this respect, these plants and the Rhipsalis are exceptions among Cactuses, as all the others are safest when kept dry during the cold, dull weather between September and April. The soil most suitable for them is a mixture of peat, loam, and sand, unless a light and fibrous loam be obtainable, which is, perhaps, the best of all soils for these plants, requiring only the addition of a little rotted manure or leaf-mould, silver sand, and some small brick rubble. The Pereskia stock is not a stout-rooted plant, and does not, therefore, require much root-room, although, by putting in plenty of broken crocks as drainage, the soil space in the pots may be reduced to what is considered sufficient for the plant. If small pots are used, the head of the plant is apt to overbalance the whole. The stems should be secured to stout stakes, and, if large, umbrella-like specimens are wanted, a frame should be made in the form of an umbrella, and the stem and branches fastened to it. Smaller plants may be kept in position by means of a single upright stake, which should be long enough to stand an inch or two above the head of the plant, so that the stoutest branches may be supported by attaching a piece of matting to them, and fastening it to the top of the stake. In the remarks upon grafting we mentioned the large pyramidal specimens of Epiphyllum which are grown by some cultivators for exhibition purposes; and, although these plants are much rarer at exhibitions now than they were a few years ago, yet they do sometimes appear, especially in the northern towns, such as Liverpool and Manchester.
It would not be easy to find a more beautiful object during winter than an Epiphyllum, 5 ft. or 6 ft. high, and nearly the same in width at the base, forming a dense pyramid of drooping, strap-like branches bearing several hundreds of their bright and delicate coloured blossoms all at one time, and lasting in beauty for several weeks. With a little skill and patience, plants of this size may be grown by any amateur who possesses a warm greenhouse; and, although it is not easy to manage such large plants in a room window, handsome little specimens of the same form may be grown if the window is favourably situated and the room kept warm in winter. Mr. J. Wallis, gardener to G.Tomline, Esq., of Ipswich, has become famous for the size and health of the specimens he has produced. Writing on the cultivation of Epiphyllums, Mr. Wallis gives the following details, which are especially valuable as coming from one of the most successful cultivators of these beautiful plants:
"The Epiphyllums here are grown for flowering in the conservatory, and are usually gay from the first week in November till February. During the remainder of the year, they occupy a three-quarter span-roof house, in which an intermediate temperature is maintained. All our Epiphyllums are grafted on thePereskia aculeata.We graft a few at intervals of two or three years, so, if any of the older plants become sickly or shabby, they are thrown away, and the younger ones grown on. Some of the stocks are worked to form pyramids, and some to form standards. The height of the pyramids is 6 ft., and, to form these, six or eight scions are inserted. The heads of the standards are on stems ranging in height from 4½ ft. down to 1½ ft. To form these heads, only one scion is put on the stock. Some of our oldest pyramids are 4 ft. or 5 ft. through at the base, and the heads of the standards quite as much. When in flower, the heads of the latter droop almost to the pots. The pyramids occupy No.2 and No.4 sized pots, the standards 8's and 12's. Each plant is secured to a strong iron stake, with three prongs fitting the inside of the pot, and the Epiphyllum is kept well supported to the stake by ties of stout wire. After the plants are well established, they are easily managed, and go many years without repotting; but, of course, we top-dress them annually, previously removing as much of the old soil as will come away easily. We grow these plants with plenty of ventilation on all favourable occasions, and they are seldom shaded. During active growth, water is given freely, occasionally liquid manure; they are also syringed daily. After the season's growth is completed, water is given more sparingly, and syringing is dispensed with."
When grown on their own roots, Epiphyllums are useful for planting in wire baskets intended to hang near the glass; large and very handsome specimens form in a few years, if young rooted plants are placed rather thickly round the sides of the baskets, and grown in a warm house. Epiphyllums are employed with good effect for covering walls, which are first covered with peaty soil by means of wire netting, and then cuttings of the Epiphyllums are stuck in at intervals of about 1 ft. The effect of a wall of the drooping branches of these plants is attractive even when without their beautiful flowers; but when seen in winter, clothed with hundreds of sparkling blossoms, they present a most beautiful picture. Large plants of Pereskia may be trained over pillars in conservatories and afterwards grafted with Epiphyllums; in fact, there are many ways in which these plants may be effectively employed in gardens.
E. truncatum(jagged); Bot. Mag. 2562.—Branchlets from 1 in. to 3 in. long, and 1 in. wide, with two or three distinct teeth along the edges, and a toothed or jagged apex (hence the specific name). The flowers are 3 in. long, curved above and below, not unlike the letter S; the petals and sepals reflexed, and exposing the numerous yellow anthers, through which the club-headed stigma protrudes; colour, a deep rose-red, the base of the petals slightly paler. The varieties differ in having colours which vary from almost pure white, with purplish tips, to a uniform rich purple, whilst such colours as salmon, rose, orange, and scarlet, are conspicuous among them.
EPIPHYLLUM RUSSELLIANUMFIG. 9.—EPIPHYLLUM RUSSELLIANUM
FIG. 9.—EPIPHYLLUM RUSSELLIANUM
E. Russellianum(Russell's); Fig. 9.—This has smaller branchlets than the type plant(E. truncatum),and is thus easily distinguished; they do not exceed 1 in. in length and ½ in. in width, whilst the edges are irregularly and faintly notched, not distinctly toothed, as inE. truncatum.The flowers are a little larger than in the older kind, and are not curved, whilst the petals are narrower; their colour is bright rosy-red. This species flowers rather later in the year thanE. truncatum,and may be had in blossom so late as the month of May or June. There are several varieties of it which have either larger and darker, or smaller and variously tinted flowers. Both the species will cross with each other, and probably many of the varieties enumerated by nurserymen have been obtained in this way.
The following is a selection of the best varieties, with a short description of the flowers of each:
E. bicolor(two-coloured).—Tube of flower white; petals purple, becoming almost white towards the base.
E. Bridgesii(Bridges').—Tube violet; petals dark purple.
E. coccineum(scarlet).—Bright scarlet, paler at the base of the petals.
E. cruentum(bloody).—Tube purplish-scarlet; petals bright scarlet.
E. Gaertneri(Gaertner's).—This is an interesting and beautiful hybrid, raised from Epiphyllum and a Cereus of some kind. The branchlets are exactly the same as those ofE. truncatum,but the flowers are not like Epiphyllum at all, resembling rather those of Cereus or Phyllocactus. They are brilliant scarlet in colour, shaded with violet.
E. magnificum(magnificent).—Tube rosy-violet; petals dark red.
E. salmoneum(salmon-coloured).—Tube and base of petals white, rest salmon-red, shaded with purple.
E. spectabile(remarkable).—Tube and base of petals white; tips of petals carmine.
E. tricolor(three-coloured).—Tube salmon-red; petals red, centre purplish.
E. violaceum(violet).—Tube white; petals carmine, margined with violet-purple.
A
S in the case of the Epiphyllums, the principal character by which the Phyllocactus is distinguished is well described by the name, the difference between it and Epiphyllum being that in the former the flowers are produced along the margins of the flattened branches, whereas in the latter they are borne on the apices of the short, truncate divisions. If we compare any of the Phyllocactuses withCereus triangularis,or with C.speciosissimus,we shall find that the flowers are precisely similar both in form and colour, and sometimes also in size.
In all the kinds the stem is compressed laterally, so as to look as if it had been hammered out flat; or sometimes it is three-angled, and the margins are deeply notched or serrated. These notches are really the divisions between one leaf and another, for the flat, fleshy portions or wings of the stems of these plants are simply modified leaves—not properly separated from each other and from the stem, but still to all intents and purposes leaves—which, as the plant increases and matures, gradually wither away, leaving the central or woody portion to assume the cylindrical stem which we find in all old Phyllocactuses. It is from these notches that the large, showy flowers are developed, just as in plants the flowers of which are borne from the axils of the leaves.
Under the names "Spleenwort-leaved Indian Figs," and "Winged Torch-thistles," as well as those here adopted, the most beautiful perhaps of all Cactuses, and certainly the most useful in a garden sense, have been cultivated in English gardens for more than 150 years; for it was in 1710 that the flowering ofE. Phyllanthuswas first recorded in English horticulture. Philip Miller grew it with many other Cactuses in the botanical garden at Chelsea which was founded by Sir Hans Sloane, in 1673, to be maintained "for the manifestation of the power, wisdom, and glory of God in the works of creation," and which still exists as the botanical emporium of the Apothecaries' Society. The majority of the gorgeous Phyllocactuses which we now possess are of only recent introduction, or are the result of cultivation and crossing.
The species are natives of various parts of tropical America, chiefly Mexico and Central America, where they are found generally growing, in company with Bromeliads and Orchids, upon the trunks of gigantic forest-trees. Phyllocactuses are therefore epiphytes when in a wild state, but under cultivation with us, they thrive best when planted in pots or in baskets—the latter method being adapted for one or two smaller kinds. It is easy to imagine the gorgeousness of a group of these plants when seen enveloping a large tree-trunk, clothing it, as it were, with balls of brilliant or pure white flowers. We are told by travellers of the splendours of a Cactus haunt during the flowering season, and those who have seen a well-managed pot specimen of Phyllocactus when covered with large, dazzling flowers, can form some idea of what wild plants are like when seen by hundreds together, and surrounded by the green foliage and festooning climbers which associate with them in the forests where they abound.
Cultivation.—For the following cultural notes we are indebted to a most successful grower of Cactuses in Germany, whose collection of Phyllocactuses is exceptionally rich and well managed: The growing season for these plants is from about the end of April, or after the flowers are over, till the end of August. As soon as growth commences, the plants should be repotted. A light, rich soil should be used, a mixture of loam, peat, and leaf-mould, or rotten manure with a little sand, being suitable. Small plants should have a fair shift; larger ones only into a size of pot which just admits of a thin layer of fresh soil. When pot-bound, the plants flower most freely, and it is not necessary to repot large specimens more often than about once every three years. When potted they should be placed in a sunny position in a close house or frame, and be kept freely watered. In bright weather they may be syringed overhead twice a day. For the first few days after repotting it is advisable to shade the plants from bright sunshine. A stove temperature is required until growth is finished. After this they should be gradually ripened by admitting more air and exposing to all the sunlight possible. During winter very little water is needed, just sufficient to prevent shrivelling being safest. Excess of moisture in winter is ruinous, as it often kills the roots, and sometimes causes the plant to rot off at the collar. The lowest temperature in winter should be 50 degs., lower than this being unsafe, whilst in mild weather it might be 5 degs. higher.
It is a bad plan to turn these plants round, in order, as some think, to ripen the growths properly. As a matter of fact, it does no good, but often does harm, by suddenly exposing the tender parts to the full force of sunlight.
The stems may be trained either in the form of a fan or as a bush. Old branches which have flowered and are shrivelling may be cut away in the spring.
Some fine specimens have been grown in pockets on old walls inside lean-to greenhouses, where the conditions have been favourable to the healthy growth and flowering of most of the species. When grown in this way, water must be supplied exactly as advised for plants grown in pots; if the pockets are not within easy reach of the watering pot, the plants can be watered by means of a heavy syringing.
Propagation.—For the propagation of the Phyllocactus either the whole plant may be divided at the base, or cuttings of the branches may be used; the latter, after having dried by remaining with their bases exposed to the air for a day or two, should be planted in small pots filled with very sandy soil; they may be placed on a dry, sunny shelf near the glass, and be slightly sprinkled overhead daily till rooted. Seeds, which sometimes ripen on cultivated plants, should be gathered as soon as the fleshy fruits have turned to a purplish colour, dried for a day or so, then sown in a light, porous soil, and placed in a warm frame or house to germinate.
P. Akermanni(named after a Mr. Akermann, who introduced it from Mexico in 1829); Fig. 10.—Stem becoming cylindrical at an early age, and clothed with little clusters of spiny hairs; the branches are flattened out, and form broad, rather thin, blade-like growths, with the margins sinuately lobed (waved and notched). The flowers are large—over 6 in. in diameter—the petals, very acutely pointed and undulated along the edges; flower tube 2 in. long, with a few small scales scattered over its surface; stamens curved, clustered around the stigma, and almost hiding it. Colour of whole flower a rich scarlet, with a satin-like lustre. Flowers in June and July.
PHYLLOCACTUS AKERMANNIFIG. 10.—PHYLLOCACTUS AKERMANNI
FIG. 10.—PHYLLOCACTUS AKERMANNI
This is one of the best-known kinds, having been extensively cultivated as an ornamental greenhouse plant till within the last few years. It was grown by several nurserymen for Covent Garden Market about eight years ago; small plants, about 1 ft. high, and bearing each from two to six flowers, finding much favour among the costermongers, as the plants could be bought at a low price, and, owing to their large, brilliant flowers, always sold well at a good profit. This species has been employed by the hybridists for the obtaining of new kinds, and some very handsome and distinct varieties have consequently been raised. As well as crossing with other species of Phyllocactus,P. Akermannihas been used in combination with several species of Cereus, good hybrids having been the result. As a compact-growing and free-flowering species, this may be specially recommended.
P. anguliger(angle-stemmed); Fig. 11.—The branches of this kind are distinguished by having the notches along their margins more like the teeth of a saw than the others. The habit is rather stiff and erect. The flowers are produced near the apex of the branches, and are composed of a curved tube 6 in. long, spreading out at the top to a width of 6 in., and surmounted by a whorl of pure white petals, in the centre of which are the stamens, rather few in number, and the large, ten-rayed stigma. The flowers are developed in December and January, and have a powerful and delicious odour. Introduced, in 1837, from West Mexico, where it is said to grow in oak forests.
PHYLLOCACTUS ANGULIGERFIG. 11.—PHYLLOCACTUS ANGULIGER
FIG. 11.—PHYLLOCACTUS ANGULIGER
P. (Disocactus) biformis(two-formed); Fig. 12.—This is a small plant, and is intermediate between this genus and the Epiphyllums. It possesses no particular beauty or distinctive character such as would render it of much value for garden purposes. The branches are short, rather narrow and drooping, the margins notched and tinged with red. The flowers are borne generally on the ends of the branches, and are drooping in habit; in form they are more like the Epiphyllums than the ordinary Phyllocactuses, as they have their petals arranged in a sort of tube about 3 in. long. The fruit is a red berry as large as a gooseberry. Honduras, 1839.
ORMISFIG. 12.—PHYLLOCACTUS BIFORMIS
FIG. 12.—PHYLLOCACTUS BIFORMIS
P. crenatus(toothed); Bot. Reg. 3031.—A large-flowered and very beautiful species, rivalling, in the size and fragrance of its blossoms, the gigantic night-floweringCereus grandiflorus.It grows to a height of about 2 ft., with round-based branches, the upper portion flattened out and the margins serrated. The flower tube is 4 in. long, brownish-green, as also are the sepals; petals 4 in. long, in a whorl, the points curving inwards; stamens and pistil erect, forming along with the petals a large star of a pale cream-colour. The beauty and fragrance of these flowers, which open in June, render them specially valuable for cutting and placing in rooms, where, notwithstanding their short duration, they never fail to win much admiration. Introduced from Honduras, in 1839. This fine species is one of the parents of the hybrids which have been raised both in this country and in America, where Mr. Hovey succeeded in obtaining some of the choicest as regards colour and size. Some of these latter were exhibited in London two or three years ago, and were much admired.
P. grandis(large-flowered).—The large, creamy-white flowers of this plant are like those of the night-flowering Cereus; and, in addition to the similarity in form and size between these two, there is a further one in the time when the flowers expand, this species, along with one or two others, opening its flowers after sunset; and although they remain in good condition till late on in the day following, and sometimes even longer, we may suppose that the proper flowering time is at night. The delicious almond scent of the flowers of this fine Cactus is so strong, that during the flowering period the atmosphere of the large Cactus-house at Kew Gardens is permeated with it, the large specimens there having usually a score or more flowers open together, the effect of which is truly grand. Even this number of flowers is, for this species, by no means extraordinary, specimens having been grown elsewhere, in pots only 8 in. across, with as many flowers open on each. From this it will be seen thatP. grandisis one of the most useful kinds, its large, sweet-scented flowers, and its free-growing nature, rendering it of exceptional value as a decorative plant. Its branches are broad and notched along the margins, and the flowers are 1 ft. in length, including the tube, whilst across the broad, spreading petals they measure almost as much. Honduras. Introduced 1837 (?). Time of flowering, summer and autumn.
P. Hookeri(Hooker's); Bot. Mag. 2692, underCactus Phyllanthus.—A robust-growing kind, often attaining to the size of a good shrub. Its flowers expand in the evening, and are sweet-scented. They are produced along the margins of the broad, flat, deeply-notched branches, the serratures being rounded instead of angled, as in some of the kinds. The tube of the flower is long and slender, no thicker than a goose quill, and covered with reddish scales; the petals are spreading, and form a cup 6 in. across; they are narrow, pointed, and pure white, the outer whorl, as well as the sepals, being tinged on the under side with a tawny colour. The stamens form a large cluster in the centre, and are bright yellow, the style being red and yellow. It is probable that this plant has been in cultivation for many years, as it was figured in the work quoted above under the name of one of the first introduced kinds of Phyllocactus, from which, however, it is abundantly distinct, as will be seen by a comparison of the descriptions of the two. There are, in the Kew collection, several large plants ofP. Hookerithat flower annually during the summer and autumn. Brazil.
P. latifrons(broad-stemmed); Bot. Mag. 3813.—This is another large-growing species, as large at least asP. Hookeri, to which, indeed, it bears a close resemblance, both in flowers and in habit. Like that species, too, its date of introduction is not known, though it appears to have been cultivated in England at an early period. It may be grown so as to form a large shrub in a few years; or by cutting it back annually, or growing on young plants from cuttings every two years, nice little pot plants may be obtained; and as the plant produces flowers freely when in a small state, it is available for small greenhouses as well as for large ones. A fine specimen, such, for instance, as that at Kew, which is over 8 ft. in height, and well furnished with branches, is an attractive object when clothed with numerous creamy-white flowers, here and there tinged with red. The branches are from 4 in. to 5 in. broad, and deeply notched; the flowers are about 8 in. in length, and the same across the spreading petals. Mexico. Spring.
P. phyllanthus(leaf-flowering).—This species is now rarely seen in cultivation. As the oldest of the garden kinds it is, however, deserving of a little notice. Philip Miller grew it in his collection in 1710. The branches are broad and flat, the edges waved, not notched, and the flowers are composed of a thin tortuous tube, 9 in. in length, bearing at the top a whorl of recurved greenish petals, 1 in. long, with a cluster of whitish stamens and a green, club-shaped style and stigma. Brazil.
P. phyllanthoides(phyllanthus-like); Bot. Mag. 2092.—For the introduction of this handsome-flowered kind we are indebted to the great travellers and naturalists, Humboldt and Bonpland, who discovered it growing in the woods upon the trunks of old trees around Cartagena in South America. Plants of it were forwarded by them to France, where they flowered for the first time in 1811. From that time till now this species has been in favour as a garden plant, though it is, at the present time, much less common in English gardens than it deserves to be. The branches are broad, triangular when young, flat when old, about 1 ft. long by 2 in. wide, with shallow incisions, the serrations rather sharply angled. The height of the plant is from 2 ft. to 3 ft. The flowers are produced on the margins of the young branches, and are composed of a short, thick tube, not more than 2 in. in length, and short, dark, recurved scales; the petals are broad, pointed, and form a stellate cluster about 4 in. across; they are of a bright rose-colour, streaked with white, and shaded here and there with a darker colour of red. The stamens are numerous and pure white. The flowers open in the day-time, and are scentless; they last in perfection for two or three days, and may, therefore, be employed as cut flowers for vases, &c. Early summer.
In addition to the cultivated species of Phyllocactus there are numerous hybrids and varieties, many of which are beautiful and distinct either in colour or in size of blossom.
The following is a selection of the best of them:
P. albus superbus(superb white).—The most beautiful of white-flowered kinds. Flowers fragrant, 6 in. across, resembling those of the night-blossomingCereus grandiflorus; sepals greenish-white, petals pure white.
P. aurantiacus superbus(superb orange).—A compact plant, with numerous large, brick-red flowers, 5 in. to 6 in. in diameter.
P. Conway's Giant.—Flowers full, deep scarlet, about 8 in. in diameter.
P. Cooperi(Cooper's).—An English hybrid, remarkable for its large, beautiful yellow flowers.
P. Franzi(Franz's).—Flowers 3 in. to 4 in. across; petals numerous, outer ones scarlet, inner violet.
P. General Garibaldi.—Flowers very large, scarlet, tinged with orange on the reflex side.
P. grandiflorus(large-flowered).—Flowers bell-shaped, 4 in. across; sepals narrow, scarlet; petals incurved and of a fiery orange-scarlet colour.
P. Haagei(Haage's); Fig. 13.—Flowers about 5 in. across, flesh-coloured when first expanded, becoming carmine before fading.