CHAPTER V.

HAVING FUN WITH "HAZEL"HAVING FUN WITH "HAZEL"

So far the war had been one of surprises, scarcely an engagement having taken place at a point where a few months before the military leaders would have deemed it possible to expect one. Spain's navy had proven no match for that of the United States, but her little army about Santiago had made a good showing, and hard fights seemed probable before the main army would be driven from Cuba.

The train first came to a stop in Harrisburg, in the midst of a mass of enthusiastic men and women, assembled to greet the members of the Governor's troop and Sheridan troop. The crowd rushed pell-mell through the cars containing the troopers of the other organizations, knocking down carbines and sabers, and upsetting things generally. But sentries had thoughtfully been placed by Lieutenant Browning at the doors of the City Troop cars, and this company's share in the demonstration was conducted through the windows. "Hazel," the goat presented to the Troop during its service at the time of the Hazelton riots, gravely surveyed the scene from her outlook, and came in for a lion's share of attention. Just as the train started an enthusiastic young woman,who had been fighting her way toward the train, thrust a white kitten into the hands of Corporal Wister, with instructions to be good to it. In all it was a pleasant break in the monotony of a long ride.

By midnight the State line was passed, and at Baltimore the first section of the train was overtaken. The Troopers, with the exception of the officers, were in day coaches, and made a picturesque sight, asleep in all conceivable attitudes. Enough were awake, however, to chat for a time with the members of the horse detail. By half-past four the men aroused, and thirty minutes later reached the station at Dunn Loring, Va. A breakfast of milk and sandwiches was eaten on the train, and then the unloading began. This work was speedily accomplished without a hitch or accident, and by nine o'clock the canvas of the three troops began to go up on the site of the camp formerly occupied by the Eighth Ohio Infantry, commonly known as "The President's Own."

All day long the cavalrymen worked upon the sun-baked slope, and by nightfall the grounds were in splendid order. In one regard the Troopers were fortunate, an artesian well being within fifty feet of their camp. This, however, supplied the wants of the men only, the horses, at first, having to be ledmore than a mile for water. Shade was abundant near the camp, the horses being better off in that respect than at Camp Hastings.

After a good night's sleep the men were called upon for disagreeable duty, which was at once cheerfully taken up. The "doughboys" who had occupied the grounds previously had left the woods in the rear in such a condition as to menace the health of the camp, and twenty men from each troop were detailed by Captain Groome to police the woods, and at the end of the second day the grounds were comparatively clean, and the men were then called upon for their first drill at Camp Alger. There was a great crowd around the parade grounds when the Troopers made their first appearance, and the repeated cheers and applause of the spectators came as an unexpected and pleasing surprise.

Upon return to camp Private J. Edward Farnum was notified of his appointment, by the President, as an assistant commissary, with the rank of captain. The new government carbines, saddles and spurs were also received and distributed, but by some mistake no saddle blankets were sent, so the Troopers continued to use their regular blankets.

Sunday the Khaiki uniforms arrived, and were at once donned by all the men. The universal verdictseemed to be that the new uniforms were not particularly adapted for cavalry service, and were as ugly as they well could be.

Right from the moment of their appearance at Camp Alger the City Troopers were in demand by the headquarters officers. Large details were required each day for orderlies at Camp, Division and Brigade headquarters, and for mounted patrol duty.

On July 10th quite an addition was made to the camp of the City Troop. Eight government mules, with all the largeness of ears, friskiness of feet and sweetness of voice, possessed by their race, were assigned to Captain Groome's command. The men gathered about the new comers in an admiring group, wondered how fast they could trot, what would happen if a Trooper twisted one of their tails, and just what they were good for anyway. Before the campaign was over mules had ceased to arouse any admiration whatever, but the Troopers at Camp Alger could not see into the future, with its endless mule train and trials, so they made the most of their new possessions for the time being.

Besides the mules, two wagons and two teamsters were assigned to the Troop, and these aids were greatly appreciated, as up to this time there had been a constant struggle to find conveyances for troop suppliesand baggage between different points of the camps.

Although the mules were in a thriving condition, the Troopers had troubles of their own with their greys. A majority of the horses had contracted shipping colds, and incessant doctoring was the order of the day and night.

All of the animals came through all right, however, with the exception of the horse ridden by Sergeant Hart, which died the fifth day after the Troop's arrival at the new camp.

The first detachment of mules was soon followed by another, until a full score had been sent to the Troop. Other commands throughout the camp had also received supplies of mules, and the animals showed a great fondness for communicating with one another in the early morning. Far away on one side of the camp a mule would raise his silvery voice to heaven; somewhere from theheadquarter'smules would come an answering bray, and in a moment the chorus would resound throughout the camping grounds. At first the novelty of these sounds appealed to theTroopers'sense of humor, but the best jokes grow wearisome by repetition, and it was not long before the men were mentally offering all sortsof rewards for the man who could devise a plan to silence the long-eared singers.

On the morning of July 14th, Corporal Hecksher and Troopers Coulston, Wheeler and Mills were sent by the Provost Marshal to escort back from Washington fifteen foot soldiers who had overstayed their leave of absence. The derelicts were turned over to the tender mercies of the headquarters guard, to be dealt with as military regulations direct. A private of a western regiment, who had evidently been in Washington, returned to camp about eleven o'clock this night. After some parley with the Troop's sentinel, then on guard on the main road back of Captain Groome's headquarters, he proceeded to mix things up with the sentry, and was promptly marched to the guard house, where he spent a repentant night.

Since the arrival of the squadron at Camp Alger Captain Groome, who was in command, had posted orders for Squadron Guard Mount every morning, and for Troop Drill and Squadron Parade every evening. The number of spectators upon these occasions kept increasing daily, and the reputation for excellence in drill on the part of the squadron spread rapidly. The officers of all the commands in the camp were attracted by these reports, and the evolutions of the cavalrymen were frequently watched with a criticaleye by many of the best known officers of the army. Though they came as critics they remained to praise, and many admitted that they gained a vast amount of useful knowledge by an inspection of the camp of the squadron.

The paymaster put in an appearance July 15th. The Troop lined up and received their portions of hard-earned government money, and then promptly turned the cash over to the Quartermaster. In the afternoon General Butler honored the Troopers by riding out especially to watch their drill, and he warmly commended Captain Groome for the fine showing of the cavalry.

At retreat roll call, on the evening of July 15th, an example was given of the affectionate regard the rest of the Pennsylvania Militia feel and show toward the Philadelphia horsemen. The battalion of State Fencibles, which formed a portion of the Sixth Regiment, marching in fours, came tramping into the Troop's street. Once there they halted and gave repeated cheers for the cavalrymen. Then away they trudged, after being assured that their compliment was appreciated by the Troopers. Two members of the City Troop served on the Provost Guard the night of the 16th, and great was their amazement, when, amid the drunks and disorderly prisoners turned over to their charge, they found a chaplain. He was escorted to the guard house by a very disgusted squad.

That same night, Private Robert Fell returned to camp, after two weeks confinement at his home with a kicked knee. His place on sick report was taken by Private Rowland, who had been slightly ill for several days, although he kept that information to himself until scarcely able to stand upon his feet.

Inspection of arms and equipments of the Troopers came on Saturday, and, as the arms just issued were uniformly dirty, a large number of the men put in an hour or two of hard cleaning and polishing. In the evening a dozen of the City Troopers attended the Camp Alger Theatre, the tent for which had been pitched right at the foot of the company's street. The price at that popular resort was twenty-five cents for all seats, and the audience generally contained two rows of Troopers, who joined heartily with the vaudeville performers in singing the choruses and making things lively. Every feature was first-class in all respects, and good temper always prevailed on and off the stage.

An incident occurred at the Theatre that night, which served to show the frame of mind of the American volunteers. A portion of the performance consisted of an exhibition of moving pictures. Finally a large flag was thrown on the sheet, and the man in charge said:

"There's the flag you are fighting for, boys!"

Instantly a dry western voice called out from the audience: "I wish to God we could get the chance!" and the immediate and tremendous cheer which followed, showed how heartily his wish was echoed by all present.

On Monday and Tuesday several details were sent out to do some work upon a site for a new camp nearer the station. Time began to hang heavy on all hands, and a strong rumor that the Troop was soon to go to Puerto Rico, failed to excite the interest that it would have a month before. Not that the men were less anxious to get to the front, but simply that they hated to let their hopes rise for fear of another disappointment.

On Tuesday night, while watching Corporal Chew throw his horse, in order to put a bridle on the unruly animal, Private Wetherill received both heels of the beast on his left thigh, the horse having succeeded for a moment in getting away from the big corporal. The injuries were not of a serious nature, however, and the bruised trooper refused to put in a plea of sickness.

It was expected by the men that the camps would be shifted on the 20th, and the failure to do so was regarded as lending color to the Puerto Rico rumors. On this morning the Troop dismounted and drilled finely. Their excellent work culminated when Lieutenant Browning rallied the men. Standing in close order, they fired three volleys that produced long cheering from the crowd. About two minutes later an orderly rode over from General Graham andreported to Lieutenant Browning that the commanding officer wished to know what company had fired those volleys. The General expressed himself as delighted to hear that it was a troop of cavalry dismounted.

Nearly every horse in camp at this time had distemper, and at night it was decided to give each of the invalids a pretty stiff drink, consisting of a pint of whiskey and sixty grains of quinine. The dose was shot down the animals throats from a great syringe, and the stable guard was advised to be on the lookout for any unusual hilarity; but no behavior out of the ordinary was noticed.

J. L. Wetherill was granted sick leave on the 21st. He had been ill for several days, and it was thought best for him to return home. Shortly after he had done so his sickness took a serious turn, and he was unable to rejoin the Troop until its return from Puerto Rico.

Squadron guard mount, drills and evening parade continued throughout the Troop's stay, under orders of Acting Major Groome. The day before the cavalry troops left Camp Alger, however, Captain Jones, of the Sheridan Troop, was commissioned major. Captain Jones held the longest record of any officer in the Pennsylvania State troops, and had served asa captain in the Civil War. As his commission did not arrive until after the squadron had left Camp Alger, his appointment made no difference in the camp routine, and as the Sheridan and Governor's troops were left behind at Newport News, the City Troopers were not affected in the least by the change in the officer commanding the squadron.

The night of the 21st one more of the greys died, but the rest of the animals were in splendid condition, and the men felt that they could make a good showing, so far as their mounts were concerned, in the foreign service soon to come.

There were many occurrences to make Friday, July 22d, an eventful day. In the morning one hundred Krag-Jorgensen carbines arrived for the City Troopers; there was an unusually interesting skirmish drill in the afternoon, and late in the evening came the eagerly awaited orders for the Troop to proceed forthwith to Newport News to take transports for Puerto Rico. Needless to say the camp was at once thrown into a thoroughly happy mood, and dozens of telegrams were sent notifying Philadelphia friends of the good luck of the Troop in securing active service, when fully 7,000 regular cavalrymen were fretting in camps of mobilization. Post Quartermaster Hugh Craig, Jr., arrived the next day, and announced hisintention of staying with the Troop until it left for the front. The men could not help feeling better when they saw his jolly face in the camp.

Tents were struck at five o'clock Sunday morning, and an hour later the squadron boarded a special train waiting to carry it to Newport News. The journey occupied the entire day, it being nearly nine o'clock when the cars reached their destination. Instead of trying to find a camping ground that night, the men curled up in the cars and slept as best they could. In a pleasant spot on the coast, about two miles outside the city, the Troopers went into camp the next day. Even before the tents went up there were several visitors from Philadelphia who had hurried down to bid the Troopers "God-speed" upon their departure for the seat of war.

An unexpected guest was Charles Wheeler, an old member of the organization, but off the active list for years. He had just returned from a trip through Japan. He was anxious to rejoin his old comrades, and as there was one vacancy in the Troop it was promptly filled.

Tuesday morning Captain Groome received orders to have his men ready to embark at four o'clock. Tents were struck at noon, the operation being watched by scores of friends who had reached thecamp by that time. Promptly at the hour mentioned in the order the Captain marched his men down to the wharf, where they found no transport awaiting them. Hour after hour passed, and still no sign of a vessel. Night found the Troopers still lounging about the dock.

During this long wait a full score of prominent Philadelphia ladies, who had come down to say a last good-by to their relatives and friends in the Troop, had an opportunity to show the traditional spirit of American women. The ladies had stood around the camp all morning, had followed the Troop into the city and to the wharf, where they had shared all the discomforts of the situation. It began to rain, but they only laughed and refused to seek shelter. Not a mouthful had they eaten since breakfast, but tired, wet and hungry as they were, they smiled bravely to keep up the spirits of the men; all unconsciously they afforded fine illustrations of what the mothers, wives and sisters of American soldiers have been in all hours of need.

When six o'clock came, and it was evident that the Troopers were in for a tough time of it, the ladies went in a body to the nearest restaurant and secured some sandwiches and coffee. Walking fearlessly through the crowd upon the dock, dodgingunderhorses'heads and around mule packs, they brought the food to the cavalrymen, and even waited upon them. In the language of one trooper whose young bride was among the number of ladies upon the wharf, "there was only one regret at going to the front, and that was the leaving behind of girls like those."

Until seven o'clock the City Troopers were kept upon the wharf. At that hour Captain Groome was informed that no transport could then be secured, and that he should return with the Troop to Newport News and report to General Fred. Grant. Captain Groome ordered the Troop tobivouacin the grass in front of the hotel for the night. There was a general rush for shelter. The ladies sought their rooms in the hotel, from the windows of which they could see the cavalrymen lying in the grass of a field opposite, rolled up in their blankets.

Captain Groome did not retire however. He returned to the wharf and spent several hours arguing with various captains, in order to find a speedy way in which to embark the Troop. It was not easy work to make headway against the seemingly endless array of objections and red tape, but perseverance won out, and the Captain was at last informed, that if he wouldhave his men on hand at four o'clock they would be taken aboard.

This lastbivouacupon American soil was exceedingly picturesque to the spectator, but hard upon the men. Every Trooper had been thoroughly soaked by the rain while standing upon the wharf. In their wet clothes they had been obliged to wrap their blankets about them and lay down to slumber in the midst of a damp grass plot under a cloudy sky, which threatened another downpour at any moment. With the exception of some pretty tough sandwiches the men had been without food since morning, and the easy way in which they accepted the situation spoke volumes for the value of the training in camp life received at Mt. Gretna and Camp Alger.

The Troop at this time consisted of three officers, one contract surgeon, ninety-nine men, one hundred and four horses and twenty mules. The Sheridan and Governor's Troop had not received orders to sail, and the members of these commands were extremely disappointed. They remained at Newport News under the command of Major Jones.

Captain Groome arranged for an early breakfast of coffee and sandwiches for his men, and at 4.30a. m.the next day the City Troopers were again ordered to the wharf. This time there was no disappointment.The transport "Massachusetts" was there taking on a great load of men, horses and mules. All was bustle and confusion. Within a short time the Troopers went aboard, and almost at once the vessel made ready to sail. Last words to the faithful friends ashore were shouted, there was a waving of hands and handkerchiefs, and a little after midday the "Massachusetts" began ploughing her way toward the southern isle, where General Brooke's army and the Spanish forces were reported to be already face to face.

Life aboard a troop ship is not a round of pleasure at the best. Long tales of woe, regarding the trials and hardships upon transports of various infantry commands, quickly found their way into print within a few weeks after active war operations commenced. Not one word, however, regarding the discomforts of the City Troop on the trip to Puerto Rico was written. Yet, if existence upon a transport ship, crowded with men is disagreeable, what would the complaining infantrymen have said had they found themselves in the Troop's plight, on a vessel containing more animals than men.

Truly discouraging was the situation in which the cavalrymen were placed. Their hammocks were swung between decks, and but eighteen inches were allowed between the hammock of each man and the hammocks above and on each side of him. Two feet is the regulation distance in the navy, but circumstances alter cases, and what might be a fair allowance on a carefully kept, well-ventilated war vessel, became a distinct hardship aboard the "Massachusetts."Especially was this the case where several of the tall, broad-shouldered men found their hammocks adjoining one another—for the men's bodies touched at all times, and bumped together vigorously at every lurch of the vessel.

The transport upon which the Troopers found themselves had been built to carry about four hundred horses and an ordinary crew, yet when pressed into government service seven hundred men and fourteen hundred horses and mules were considered about her proper capacity. When the Troopers first boarded the vessel their bundles of clothing and equipments were scattered about in great confusion, and a good part of the first day was spent by the men in collecting their belongings and bringing them into some sort of order.

The weather during the first day at sea was exceedingly hot, although fairly pleasant until toward evening, when the wind began to show itself and the sky became cloudy. A majority of the men prepared to sleep upon deck, but as the vessel came off Cape Hatteras about midnight she struck a regular squall. The air became cold, the "Massachusetts" began to pitch about violently and then rain came rushing down in great volumes, driving the men below in a hurry. There they found many of their fellowpassengers with their dreams of glory swallowed up in seasickness. The horses, too, succumbed to the complaint in large numbers, and required much care.

Aboard the "Massachusetts" there were, in all, seven hundred horses and a like number of mules. Hundreds of the mules were fastened just below the deck to which the Troopers had been driven by the squall, while above could be heard the constant stamping of horses. Between these two layers of animals the cavalrymen passed a restless night. But if their first attempt at sleep was disturbed, the conditions prevailing the second night can better be imagined than described. Despite the best efforts to keep the quarters of the animals clean, the odor which arose from the hundreds of horses and mules was sickening, and a majority of the Philadelphia men found sleeping in the hammocks impossible.

Early the next morning Captain Groome took the matter in hand, and secured permission for his men to sleep upon the baled hay, which was piled high on the main deck. There, under the stars, swept by refreshing sea breezes, the Troopers slept well—if not comfortably—the remaining nights aboard. Special sentries were appointed to see that no tired Trooper rolled from his hay mattress into the sea.

But the greatest hardship of the voyage to PuertoRico was the lack of drinking water. Dirty, yellowish fluid was all that could be had. This would not have troubled the men a particle had it been cool enough to be refreshing. But the water was warm; sometimes it was positively hot, and always insipid and filthy looking. A skirmish by the commissary brought to light a case of beer, although there was no ice to make it palatable. The beer lasted but a day, and to keep alive the water had to be accepted and made the best of. Worse came to worst on Sunday. The pumps of the "Massachusetts" broke down, and the Troopers were obliged to go into the hold of the offensively fragrant vessel and bring up water bucketful by bucketful for the animals under their charge.

GLIMPSE INTO A TROOP SHIP.GLIMPSE INTO A TROOP SHIP.

Sergeant Martin and Corporal Wagner, stripped to the waist, were at the bottom of what looked like a deep well. The atmosphere was stifling, and in order to enable the men at the bottom to stand the heat, their comrades kept pouring water down upon their heads and bodies. As fast as pails could be filled from the bottom they were passed up along a long line of men composed of details from the various commands aboard.

It was exhausting labor, but of all the men on board the City Troopers stood the work best. Thewater thus brought up was of a kind absolutely dangerous for a human being to drink, and all through the day's trying struggle the Troopers silently endured the added pangs of thirst. There was more real suffering for twenty-four hours than any man in the Troop will admit, but when the pumps resumed operations in the morning, the thankful air with which the formerly despised yellowish warm water was accepted spoke volumes.

The days passed along slowly. No extremely rough weather was encountered, but on several occasions the old transport reeled sufficiently to send a few of the Troopers to their hammocks with slight attacks ofmal de mer.

The motion of the vessel was sufficient, however, to completely disarrange each night the outfit of the Troopers, and it was their duty each morning to gather together their equipments for inspection, the same as though they were in camp. This constant readiness was in marked contrast with the arrangements among other commands aboard.

Many of the Troopers will never forget the first time the alarm of fire was given aboard the ship. It was the third morning out that a guard discovered smoke slowly curling from between the crevices of the baled hay piled high on deck. The guard wasstartled, and his call for the corporal and statement of the discovery of the fire was given in a loud tone, which instantly caused the alarm to spread throughout the ship. It was no pleasant thought for the men, who knew so well the inflammable nature of the cargo and the crowded condition aboard, and there was a rush for the point from which the alarm had come. Fortunately the blaze was a trivial affair easily extinguished, and the excitement was speedily at an end. Three other times, however, during the trip the same alarm was given, but the careful watch kept prevented the fire, in a single instance, from gaining any headway.

Although the "Massachusetts" was supposed to be one of the fastest transports, she found the entire flotilla, which had left Newport News about the same time she did, awaiting her arrival off Guayama. A despatch boat came puffing down to meet her, flying the signal, "Follow me," and Troopers in the bow saw a man armed with a megaphone mount the bridge of the despatch boat and shout: "'The Massachusetts' will lead the way, landing at Ponce."

These instructions as to the exact landing place were somewhat contrary to those before given Captain Pitcher, who was in charge of the transport, so he shouted back, "By whose authority do you givethose orders?" and the reply promptly came, "By the authority of Major General Nelson A. Miles, commanding."

This was at three o'clock, and the "Massachusetts" at once went ahead. At 4.30 the harbor of Ponce was sighted, and several of the Philadelphia cavalrymen in the bow saw that the transport was steering directly into shoal water, at the bottom of which a coral reef could be plainly seen. They shouted to the man at the wheel, but too late—the great transport drove bow on into the reef, and at last, on the afternoon of August 4th, the Troopers were upon hostile soil, hard and fast.

Instantly upon the stoppage of the "Massachusetts," a period of suffering began for the Troopers, in comparison with which all former experiences went as nothing. Deprived of all breeze, exposed to a torrid sun, half stifled by the fumes from the hundreds of horses and mules aboard, without water, the situation was well nigh unbearable. Up to the moment of grounding not an animal aboard had died. Within two hours after the motion of the vessel had stopped three horses perished, and two more died before they could be taken off. Fortunately none of these belonged to City Troopers. This sufferingamong the animals shows slightly what the men had to contend with.

CATHEDRAL VIRGIN DEL CARMEN.CATHEDRAL VIRGIN DEL CARMEN.

BIVOUAC OUTSIDE CATHEDRAL VIRGIN DEL CARMEN.BIVOUAC OUTSIDE CATHEDRAL VIRGIN DEL CARMEN.

Captain Groome secured permission to send Lieutenant Browning ashore to select a camp site, and report. He made quick work of it, choosing a spot beside the Cathedral de la Carmen, and returning with an order from General Miles that the First Troop Philadelphia City Cavalry, should land at once. This order amazed the New York cavalrymen, who had been heard to boast frequently that they would surely be given the preference in all military arrangements.

The orders were received with great joy by the Philadelphians, who were ready to disbark in short order, owing to the constant readiness in which they had kept. A rope tied about their outfit was all that was necessary, and the men were only too eager to leave the grounded vessel and its disagreeable quarters.

The Troopers were rescued by the little lighter "Whitney," sent by General Miles to bring the Philadelphia men ashore. As soon as the Troopers reached land themselves they set to work to bring their horses off the transport. The air was full of rumors that the cavalry were needed in a hurry for active service, and the men went at the task of unshippinghorses with a will. Some amusing attempts at interference on the part of the men of C Troop, Brooklyn, were simply ignored.

At three o'clock the next morning sixty-one of the one hundred and seven horses belonging to the Troop had been landed. The men not on duty had gone into the camp selected by Lieutenant Browning the day before, on the flagstones outside of the little cathedral. All day rain came down in torrents, introducing the Troopers to the duckings which were to be their lot several times each day during their stay upon the island.

BRINGING THE HORSES ASHORE AT PONCE.BRINGING THE HORSES ASHORE AT PONCE.

The morning of August 5th broke clear, however, and the day was one of the few without rain that the Troopers enjoyed while in Puerto Rico. A fine breeze was blowing, and the cavalrymen's ideas of the country began to take on a roseate hue. Everywhere their eyes met deep green tropical foliage and the cute little yellow houses without windows; strange old churches and curious natives made the entire scene appear more like a theatrical setting than a reality.

In the morning before five o'clock the blaring of trumpets announced a hurry call. As soon as the men came to their senses they heard the non-commissioned officers shouting: "Fall in without arms." The Troop never appeared to better advantage. The guard, the fourth platoon, tumbled out fully armed, and were standing in place in two minutes, and one minute later the entire Troop, in column of fours, with the captain in command, was double-quicking toward the dock. When the men got there, ten or fifteen minutes ahead of anyone else except the regulars,who arrived shortly after the Troop, they found that a lighter loaded with five thousand rifles for the infantry was sinking close to shore.

No example of the discipline, which always prevails in the City Troop, could be more striking than the one then witnessed by a score of other commands, which came rushing, all disorganized, to the scene. While the men in other companies were hesitating and wondering what to do, the City Troop broke into regular squads, under the command of the non-commissioned officers, and began methodical relief work. Every rifle was saved. Regular army officers on the spot warmly complimented Captain Groome upon the showing made by his men.

That afternoon Captain Groome, with Major Flagler and Major McMichael, of General Wilson's staff, rode out from Ponce into the country looking for a suitable camp site. The heat was intense, the dust thick, and a place which would fulfill all requirements was not easily found. The officers kept at it, however, until satisfied; although they were in a state of complete exhaustion upon their return. Indeed, all the men's faces for the first few days in Puerto Rico showed plainly the enervating influence of the climate, to which they could not easily get accustomed. Their tasks done, the Troopers would throwthemselves down upon bales of hay, piles of boards or even the pavements, too weary to care where they were or how they looked. Men famed for their strength and endurance at home, would sit by the hour with their heads in their hands, rendered listless and weak by the heat and moisture.

That night again the men spread their blankets on the stones outside the cathedral. A citizen placed his front porch at the disposal of the Troop as a guard house. This furnished protection for the sentries on duty from the heavy showers which invariably occurred about midnight.

On Saturday morning more horses were unloaded, and in the afternoon all the men who had mounts rode out beyond Ponce, on the highway which leads to Barros, to the camp selected by Captain Groome. While riding along the Troopers excited great interest among the natives because of the size of the American horses. In Puerto Rico all the horses are small, mere ponies in fact, less than fourteen hands high, and the islanders never failed to stare with open mouth at the City Troops handsome greys. The size of the Troopers themselves also caused many expressions of amazement, and as some of the broad-shouldered men in the second and third platoons passed, the spectators would make admiring signswith their hands, indicating the men'sheightand breadth.

The first trial of the horses proved that the sea voyage had done them good in one respect. Many were suffering from distemper when they left Newport News, but there was not a case noticed after the animals landed. They were thin, stiff and sore, however, so that they were led over most of the six miles leading to the new camp.

Those Troopers still without horses remained aboard the "Massachusetts" unloading the seemingly endless string of horses and mules, and their energetic efforts were crowned with success late Saturday night, when the last of the animals were landed. Sunday morning was cool, but cloudy—and as the last detail of City Troopers were packing and saddling their horses, they heard the voice of a priest conducting early mass in the tiny cathedral close by. The cavalrymen walked with theirhorses'bridles over their arms. As they passed through Ponce they encountered many scowling faces, but once in the country a majority of the natives shouted a welcome. By noon they reached the spot chosen for a camp; the Troopers were together again in a magnificent bit of country, blue mountains everywhere, and brilliant, luxurious foliage on all sides. "Hazel" manifesteda striking fondness for all things Puerto Rican, and had to be tied in a rather barren spot to prevent overfeeding.

Reveille sounded at four o'clock Monday morning, and the packing of saddles began at once. At seven o'clock the order came to join with H Troop as escort to a train of one thousand mules, headquarter horses, signal and ambulance corps, and as quickly as possible to join General Brooke's command at Guayama. Mounted for the first time, off the Troop went, retracing its steps through a glorious stretch of country to Ponce, where on the main southern road the long supply train for General Brooke's army was overtaken. Thus hampered, the march became slow. It was terrifically hot, and the dust blew about in clouds. At one o'clock the cavalrymen passed through Santa Isabella, where a half hours stop was made to bring up the stragglers of the mule train, and to take a turn at the hard tack and dried beef.

Then the march began through the enemy's country, the City Troop acting as advance guard, and H Troop, of the Sixth Regular Cavalry, acting as rear guard. Flankers were sent out, and the advance guard was frequently informed by natives that quite a large number of Spaniards were retreating ashort distance ahead. The City Troopers came upon many signs of the enemy's presence along the road, and at four o'clock the Troops went into camp at the Hacienda Fortuna, a rich sugar plantation. An outpost of City Troopers was immediately established, and all barns and outbuildings were thoroughly searched before night.

Just before midnight a hurry call sent six City Troopers and six H Troopers, under Captain Groome and Lieutenant Ryan, scouring a neighboring cane brake for Spaniards, spies having reported their presence there in force. No lurking Dons were found, however, and at four o'clock the next morning camp was broken and the march resumed in dead earnest. The City Troopers acted as rear guard to the train. No American troops had passed through this part of the island before, and as it was said to be a Spanish stronghold, great watchfulness was observed. On both sides of the ragged road were cane breaks and great growths of underbrush, and it was a tiresome ride and no small task looking out for Spaniards, stubborn mules and foolish drivers.

Late that afternoon a camp was reached at the foot of the Caney mountains, on the Hacienda Magdelane, an English estate. There the two cavalry troops and the tremendous mule train went into camp again.They had passed through Selinas in the early afternoon.

CAMP AT ARROYO.CAMP AT ARROYO.

In the blackness of Wednesday morning the roll was called at 3.30, and an hour later saw the march resumed, with the City Troopers acting as advance guard. Lieutenant McFadden commanded the advance guard and Corporal Merrill commanded the point. Reports of native spies left no doubt as to the serious character of the situation, and the march was of necessity slow. Every two or three miles the sight of small bands of armed Spaniards would cause a halt, while out the skirmishers would go to report.

About nine o'clock the point came to a twelve-foot bridge, freshly torn up. This was quickly replaced and on the column moved. About 10.30 a few shots were heard, which fact was at once reported to Captain Groome, who gave orders for the Troop to advance at a gallop. In a few minutes the point came in sight, talking with armed men, and like a flash the word came back through the chain of advance supports that the Troop had at last reached General Brooke's outposts, the Fourth Illinois.

Orders were given Captain Groome to proceed through Guayama, toward Arroyo, one mile fromwhich place the Troop went into camp. A few hours later H Troop came up and camped alongside.

Thursday, August 11th, was a day of wild rumors. All sorts of movements were about to take place, according to report, and a majority of the plans had some Trooper, who believed in them. From the Philadelphia men's camp a Spanish blockhouse could be seen on the mountains two miles away. Several batteries, encamped near the Troop, wheeled into position in the morning and indulged in target practice. Many of the Troopers witnessed this stirring sight, and returned to camp with the announcement that the practice was superb. The daily rain was unusually heavy, and the men turned in early to fight the bugs, mosquitoes and stifling heat.

All conditions were unfavorable to comfort at Arroyo. Great clouds would come drifting in from the sea toward the mountains, and rain and wind would beat in at one side of the Troop's shelter tents. Within an hour the clouds would come rolling back to the sea, and the wind and rain would besiege the opposite side of the tents. Thursday night the Troopers slept in soaking blankets, inches deep in rain and mud. Nothing but good-natured chaffing over the discomforts was heard however.

Friday afternoon the Troopers went in a body tothe beach, about a mile away, and took a dip in the Caribbean Sea. Rumors of an engagement close at hand kept growing in force, and when a careful inspection of carbines took place upon their return from bathing, the Troopers were fully prepared for the orders which came to them at retreat that evening, to be ready to move in heavy marching order at 5.30 in the morning. This was formal notice that a battle would take place on the morrow, and members of the City and H Troops offered mutual congratulations.

Much has been written and more said about "the night before the battle." Then it is, that sentiment is supposed to seize upon a soldier; thoughts and talks of home, wife and mother are proper, and in fact necessary, according to all writers of fiction. But even in the face of this traditional outline of a soldier's last hours before an engagement, it must be written that the City Troopers retained their characteristic coolness. On that Friday evening a close observer of the Troopers' camp would have supposed that the men were upon familiar ground, and that a battle was months in the future, instead of being as sure to take place on the morrow as anything could be in human foresight.

All down the line the saddle packing went on amid jests and laughter. Had the Troopers been preparing for a homeward journey they could not have seemed more light-hearted. Few men spoke of the coming battle at all, yet it was in every heart, and many men felt a lump rise in their throats as the popular First Sergeant blurted out these words:"In a scrap like this the cavalry is sure to be heavily engaged. A good many of us are bound to be stopped, and, good God! just think of digging a hole to chuck one of this outfit in."

Captain Groome paced in front of company headquarters for nearly an hour, with only his inevitable cigar as a companion. Dozens of the men watched him, and speculated as to his meditations. Lieutenants Browning and McFadden passed through the camp several times, speaking with the men on minor matters, and avoiding absolutely all talk of the coming day. Later in the evening they wrote letters.

Within an hour after taps the heavy rumbling of artillery began to be heard. Five batteries, numbering thirty guns, passed near the camp during the hours between midnight and four o'clock, and many a sleepless Trooper listened anxiously to the bumping, thumping and rattling as the guns, caissons and ammunition wagons kept rolling by.

When the Troopers tumbled out at four o'clock it was pitch dark, and the everlasting rain was descending in torrents. A few feeble glimmering lanterns supplied just enough light to show the rain-filled plates, in which bacon and potatoes floated unconcernedly about. Coffee was consumed in quantities that only Troopers know how to master; and then, inthe midst of the darkness and flood, feeding, saddling and loading of ox carts was accomplished. On this morning of battle little attention had been paid to uniforming. Some men wore Khaiki breeches, others the old familiar blue. Hats and caps of all varieties were seen, several men wearing broad straw hats secured from the natives. All wore blue shirts of various ages and conditions of cleanliness. Sleeves were rolled up, and scarcely two men appeared in the same kind of boots. The closest friends of the Troopers would never have recognized the rain-bedraggled warriors as the same men who so often had shone resplendent in the streets of Philadelphia as the guard of honor of The President or distinguished soldiers.

At last the command came, "Prepare to mount," and a moment later the cavalrymen had swung into the saddle, where they found themselves seated in good-sized puddles. The City Troop mounted ninety-five men and three officers, the only absentees being Privates Wetherill and Rowland, on sick report in Philadelphia; Brooke, in the Red Cross Hospital at Ponce, and Trumpeter Brossman, in a hospital at Guayama.

Captain Groome, in a blue silk shirt, Khaiki breeches, rode at the head of the column, while onhis left rode Lieutenant Browning, in full Khaiki, and Lieutenant Ryan, commander of H Troop of the Sixth regular cavalry. Behind them came H Troop's trumpeter and the City Troop's faithful trumpeter, Dick Singer. Then the head of the column, Sergeant Wagner, with the guidon, and Sergeant Thibault and Private Bower leading the long line of two's. Each saddle had a poncho strapped upon it, the carbine swung from the off side, saber opposite to the carbine; each man wore a belt of one hundred Krag-Jorgensen cartridges, with his revolver strung in his belt. On the cantle behind, each man carried his blanket wrapped in his half of a shelter tent.


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