Fig. 188. Checker-board tables
Fig. 188. Checker-board tables
This strip, as well as the rabbet, may be omitted entirely, but should the frame be of the same material as one of the woods used in the checker-board it is necessary, and in any case it adds a finish to the work that is very pleasing. Inlaid designs may be set into the frame and a very elaborate result obtained, if desired.
After this last gluing, set in the inlay, and when dry, plane, scrape, and sand-paper the whole surface flat, and square the edges of the frame.
This makes a very substantial and heavy board, worthy of any woodworker and worthy of being used as a table top. Such a table may be constructed as shown inFig. 188. It calls for mortise and tenon joints cut at an angle, and if this style of work is considered too difficult vertical legs can be used. This under structure should be of the same kind of wood as the frame of the checker-board, and if oak is used the stain should be appliedbefore placing the inlaid border. Bay wood is preferable to oak for inlaying but is more expensive.
On a small table of this size, where vertical legs are used, the base is so small that the structure is top-heavy and easily upset, so that the problem becomes a very interesting study in design.
When the entire table has been put together, polish it. If mahogany, finish in natural colour; if oak, any of the styles described in the chapter on staining may be used, with care taken to keep the checker-board itself in the natural colours.
After our boys had made several dovetailed and inlaid boxes, Ralph announced that his pupil was ready to attack the construction of a tool cabinet. It was to be fastened to the wall over the bench, designed to hold most of the small tools, and to be in such a position that it could be reached from the front of the bench.
The cabinet designed was really a dovetailed box 30 × 20 × 6 inches over all. It was made of1⁄2-inch quartered oak except the back, which was1⁄2-inch pine. The bill of material was:
1 piece pine 30 × 20 ×1⁄22 pieces oak 20 × 51⁄21 piece oak 30 × 20 ×1⁄22 pieces oak 30 × 51⁄2
The front and back, each 30 × 20 inches, were made of two pieces 30 × 10 inches, jointed and glued, placed in clamps over night and the joints planed down to take off the excess glue which had oozed out under pressure of the clamps. While these two parts were gluing, the sides and ends were dovetailed as in previous boxes.
Fig. 189. A tool cabinet
Fig. 189. A tool cabinet
When the front and back pieces were glued in place on the box, they were further fastened by 1-inch brads, set below the surface, and the holes filled with putty, coloured to correspond with the stain. The colour of the finish was a dark, handsome green. The box was sawed in two along a line 21⁄2inches from the front.
This divided the cabinet into two parts, the door or front section having a clear depth of 2 inches, and the back or wall section a depth of 3 inches.
After hinging the door section in position, the cabinet was stained inside and out, the outside polished and a hook for fastening the door shut was placed in position.
The cabinet was fastened to the studding of the shop by four strong screws 11⁄2inches long. The various nails, hooks, and tool racks were next added and the cabinet was ready to use.
Patent racks for holding chisels, gouges, etc., are sold in hardware stores, but our boys preferred to make their own. Their chisel rack is shown inFig. 189.
After squaring up and cutting out the recesses at the ends, holes were bored, the opening from the front cut with back saw, and the sharp edges rounded with chisel and sand-paper.
Holes for the screws at the ends were bored and countersunk.
In locating a tool cabinet of this kind, while it should be very easily reached, and is usually open during work hours, it should be placed high enough so as to be easily opened or closed without striking tools and work on the bench. In other words, it should not be necessary to clear the bench top in order to open the cabinet. About 6 inches between under side of tool cabinet and bench top is about right.
An old-fashioned tool chest, suitable for shipping a whole kit of tools any distance, is shown inFig. 190. These chests were usually fitted with traysdivided into compartments for small tools and hardware. Such a chest may be made of either hard or soft wood and its construction is as follows:
After making out a list of material, square up sides and ends exactly as in making any box. Lay out, cut and fit the dovetails. The bottom, on account of its width, will have to be made of two pieces. These may be jointed, glued and placed in clamps or put together with a tongue and groove joint. The latter plan calls for a special plane. Having prepared the bottom by either of these methods, bore and countersink holes about 6 inches apart in the bottom and secure rigidly to sides and ends by 11⁄2or 13⁄4inch flat-head screws.
For the top, make a frame from5⁄8to3⁄4inch thick and 3 or 4 inches wide, putting the ends together with end lap or mortise and tenon joints.
Secure this frame to top of box by screws. These may be round-heads, or if it is desirable to hide them, the method shown inFig. 190can be used. This is accomplished by boring a3⁄16-inch hole through the top frame. At the same centre a1⁄2-inch hole is bored partly through. The screw is driven home and a round wooden plug glued into the1⁄2-inch hole. When dry, this plug is sawed off and planed smooth.
The top frame having been secured, two gauge lines are made for sawing the cover, as in previous boxes, and the two parts dressed to gauge lines, ready for hinging.
Fig. 190. The old-fashioned tool chest
Fig. 190. The old-fashioned tool chest
Before putting on the hinges, the top is to be finished with a raised panel. Square up a piece of stock two inches longer and wider than the open space in the top frame. Round upper edges, and secure to frame by flat-head screws from the under side through holes bored and countersunk.
Next put on hinges, which should be large andstrong, the variety known as strap hinges. Cut out space for lock, and fit. The holes for key are bored with a gimlet bit and cut out enough to allow the key to enter freely; or hasp, staple and padlock may be used.
Fig. 191. Suit case tool chest
Fig. 191. Suit case tool chest
The bevelled base is mitred at corners, and brass corner plates to protect these lower corners are added.
The strip at the top corresponding to the base may be mitred and protected with corner plates, or the ordinary butt joint can be used. The bevel on this strip may be omitted. A chest of this variety, made of pine and painted, will stand a great deal of rough usage. Iron or brass handles at theends are recommended for convenience in carrying. Our boys were not satisfied with this form of tool chest, as it required two people to carry it, and after some experimenting they evolved one in the form of a dress suit case, long, narrow, and high, that could be easily carried. It is shown inFig. 191.
They first made a solid box 30 × 15 × 7 inches over all. It was put together with butt joints securely nailed, using1⁄2-inch white wood.
One quarter of the box was sawed out, as shown on the end view, and hinged to the body by ornamental brass hinges. This quarter was fitted for two saws by making two blocks as shown in the drawing. The rip and cross cut saws were fitted into the saw kerfs cut in these two blocks, placed securely in the cover, and were held in place by a small piece of leather strap taken from a school book strap and nailed to inside of cover. A tray for small tools was made of1⁄4-inch stock the full length and width of the inside of the chest 11⁄2inches deep and made to rest flush with the top of lower section on little corner strips glued in the four corners.
For handle, two pieces of leather strap were secured, one to each top section, by screws. Whenthe box was closed, these two straps came together and made a good handle. The objection to a solid handle is that it must be entirely on one section and that takes it out of the centre, so that the weight is not evenly distributed.
This is one of the most satisfactory styles of tool carrier devised. It will hold practically the whole kit and may be picked up like a dress suit case and transported just as readily. A hook and eye or hasp, staple and padlock should be used to hold the case securely closed.
For carrying bits of various kinds and sizes, a roll of ticking or denim divided into separate spaces is very desirable. These rolls with straps are sold in tool houses, but may be made at home by the sewing department. Besides protecting the cutting edges, they help to keep out dampness and rust.
In the modern home, the orderly arrangement of books and magazines calls for ample shelf space and the book shelf becomes a favourite piece of furniture among amateur woodworkers. The book rack for the books of the day has been taken up in Chapter XXVII. The book shelf for hanging on the wall is blocked out inFig. 192.
The questions to be considered in the design are:
No. 1. Methods of fastening shelves to ends.No. 2. The design of the ends.No. 3. The back: is it necessary, and if so shall it be solid? Outline of back.No. 4. Method of fastening to wall.
No. 1. Methods of fastening shelves to ends.
No. 2. The design of the ends.
No. 3. The back: is it necessary, and if so shall it be solid? Outline of back.
No. 4. Method of fastening to wall.
No. 1. The method of bringing shelves and ends together with plain butt joint and fastening with a round-head screw from the outside is the easiest and poorest. The whole weight on the shelves is carried by the screws. This method is shown ata. Atb, a better method is indicated, the shelf beinggained into the end and held in position by the screws. The weight in this case is carried by the ends. To hide the joint, the shelf may be slightly narrower than the end piece as shown in the top view atc, or the two parts may be of the same width as atd, the gained joint stopping half an inch or so short of the full width. These details apply to bookcases that stand on the floor as well as to smaller ones.
Fig. 192. The problem of designing a wall book rack
Fig. 192. The problem of designing a wall book rack
No. 2. The design of the ends is largely a matter of artistic taste, and where curves are used, the lower part is usually formed in such a way as to suggest a bracket.
No. 3. A back is only necessary to give the rack rigidity and to protect the wall. If made solid—i. e., to cover the whole space between ends—it uses a good deal of wood and adds considerable weight.Eshows a method of using only top and bottom strips. They will make the rack sufficiently rigid and the strip should be gained into the ends, bringing them flush with the back of end pieces.
No. 4. Find the location of wall studs by dropping a line with weight on it (plumb) from the nails on picture moulding, or by bringing the weight in front of nails on base board. Make fine pencil marks on the wall where the studs have been located. Find the horizontal distance between the marks and at this distance drill holes in back of book rack and secure to the studs by screws. This brings all the strain on the back strips. If the rack has no back, square up two hard wood strips about3⁄4inch square and as long as the shelves. Drill screw holes in these strips and fasten to studs. Drill vertical holes at the back of each shelf3⁄8inch in from edge, fit the shelves over cleats and screw down into them from upper side of shelves.
The cleats should be finished in the same colour as the book rack. This method makes a very solid and permanent fastening.
The length of a wall rack should be limited ordinarily to three feet, as the weight of three feet of books will give considerable sag to the shelves, and a greater length will call for a vertical partition and corresponding bracket underneath for its support.
This piece of furniture is seen in so many forms that a volume would be necessary simply to catalogue them. The essential features are strong ends or sides, usually a solid back, a base, shelves, often adjustable as to spacing, a top more or less ornamental, and often glass doors.
Perhaps the most important point in the construction is strength. A wobbly bookcase is an abomination, and the weight to be carried is frequently enormous.
A typical case without doors will be taken up and this may be modified, used as a unit and doubled or trebled at the will of the young carpenter. (Fig. 193.)
If it is made to occupy a certain space in a permanent home, it may be built in and made solid with the wall, but this is not often desirable, particularly in America, where people move frequently. As a general rule, two small bookcases are better than one large one. They may be easily shifted,changed from room to room, and are more apt to fit between windows.
Fig. 193. The bookcase
Fig. 193. The bookcase
The uprights 4 feet 4 inches long, 8 inches wide and7⁄8inch thick, are rabbeted at the back so that the joint will not show from the side. The back is to be of1⁄2-inch white wood stained the same colour as the sides. The under top piece and bottom are gained into the sides, both joints being hidden bythe later construction. The 3-inch bevelled base is mitred at the corners and cut off square at the back, covering only three sides, as the back is to be flush from top to bottom. The top is to have a moulded edge on three sides, and to be fastened to under top piece by flat-head screws from the under side through countersunk holes.
The four solid shelves are made adjustable in their spacing by the old-fashioned method of sawtoothed strips in each corner. Strips7⁄8×1⁄2inch are made to fit in the toothed spaces, and the shelves rest on these strips, of which two must be provided for each shelf.
The four toothed strips should be laid out and cut together to insure the shelves being level. The dimensions for all these pieces are given in the detailed drawings.
The front edges are covered by1⁄2-inch strips, beaded if desired, mitred at the top and cut to fit the bevelled base below. Nailed on with brads, these are set and the holes filled with putty, coloured to match the finish.
In the mission style, the shelves are frequently mortised through the sides and secured by pins or wedges. In this type of bookcase, a solid back is rarely used, and base and top are omitted. Ina design of this kind, the top shelf becomes a book rack with ornamental ends. Often only the upper and lower shelves are mortised, the others being gained into the sides as described under wall racks. The lower part of the side is frequently modified to give a wider base and to make the case more stable. One objection to this is the amount of material wasted in cutting out, as the stock for the sides must be the full width of the base.
The wall cabinet for drugs and toilet articles, where the various household remedies may be found quickly, is illustrated inFig. 194.
It calls for a panelled door, the construction and details of which are given in the drawing.
After squaring up the four pieces for styles and rails, plough a1⁄4-inch groove3⁄8of an inch deep on the inner edge of all the pieces. This groove is to receive the panel which is planed down to fit. The two uprights are to be mortised at each end, as shown by dotted lines and edge view.
The tenons on the ends of the rails are cut with a shoulder. This closes the space made by the plough on the uprights, as shown in the top view.
The panel is squared up3⁄4inch larger each way than the open space between rails and styles and a long bevel is planed on each of the four sides, leaving the thickness of the edges just great enough to fit the bottom of the grooves of rails and styles.
Another method of making a panel is to use thinwood which will just fit the grooves, and to fill the joints with a simple moulding mitred at the corners.
The raised panel is not difficult to make, however, and there is little difference in the time consumed by the two methods.
When the five parts are ready for assembling, the mortise joints are glued, the panel slipped into place and left free to shrink in the grooves. The door is placed in hand screws or clamps over night.
As it is to fit a definite space, always make a door slightly larger than its finished dimensions, to allow for planing off and fitting.
While it is drying, proceed with the building of the cabinet. The back inner edges of the sides are to be rabbeted to receive the back, which may be made of1⁄4or3⁄8inch white wood. Material for the cabinet proper may be any hard wood, or even white wood.
The shelves may be1⁄2inch thick. Heavier material is not necessary, on account of the short span. They are to be gained into the sides to the depth of3⁄8or1⁄2inch. The spacing of the shelves should be adapted to the sizes of bottles to be accommodated, and the dimensions given in the drawing are merely suggestive.
The overhanging top may be made either withmoulded edges on front and sides or be left square. It is secured by screws from the under side of the false top.
Fig. 194. The medicine cabinet
Fig. 194. The medicine cabinet
The sides are shown modified at the bottom to give a pleasing effect, and the back piece may either be brought down and cut to a curved outline, as indicated in the drawing, or stopped at the first shelf.
In assembling, first put the false top in place and nail it to the sides; next put the top on with screws, slip the shelves into their respective grooves, and glue. Put on the back, nailing securely to sides and shelves. To make the cabinet more rigid, drive 1-inch brads into the shelves from the outside set and fill the holes.
Last of all, fit the door, and fasten it with hinges and a catch. A lock may be used, but that is hardly advisable, as in case of an emergency the key may be lost at the critical moment. Stain and polish.
The method of fastening is by screws through the back into the wall studs.
Cabinets for various purposes can be designed along the lines just described, but in each case the method of construction is similar. A stronger cabinet would result if the top and bottom shelves were mortised through the sides in the mission style. The only objection to this is that if the horizontal space be limited, the projecting tenon may be in the way.
Fig. 195. A filing cabinet
Fig. 195. A filing cabinet
The filing cabinet for papers shown inFig. 195is of radically different construction. As it is designed to stand on a desk, or independent shelf, the base may be very simple or omitted entirely, as in the drawing.
It is divided into twelve compartments, with a clear space in each of 121⁄2× 51⁄2× 31⁄2inches, these being the outside dimensions of the drawers.
It is important in building up these compartments to use lumber that is well seasoned and free from warp. Gain the shelves into outside uprights, stopping the groove half an inch from the front.
Before sliding the shelves into the grooves, lay out on the four pieces the grooves for the three vertical partitions. It will be much easier to cut these grooves clear through from front to back, but a better appearance from the front can be obtained by stopping the grooves half an inch back, as on the sides.
Each vertical partition will then consist of three separate pieces slipped in from the back. A cross section of the cabinet will appear, asa. The quarter-inch back is to be gained into the sides as shown in the top view.
The construction of the drawer is shown atc, the sides being cut away toward the back. Otherwise the drawer is simply an open box made of3⁄8-inch pine or white wood, with1⁄4-inch bottom put together with brads.
The false front, made of the same material as top and sides, gives a suitable finish, and practically covers all joints; it is secured by flat-head screws from the inside.
In assembling the drawer, it should be made about1⁄16inch smaller than the compartment it is to fit, to prevent binding in damp weather.
Bay wood, a light-coloured mahogany, is very appropriate for this piece of office furniture, the edges of partitions being stained to match. A brass drawer-pull, with a space left for a printed label, is to be put on after the polishing is done.
Filing cabinets made by this method may, of course, be made with drawers of different proportions and with any number of compartments, but this size is designed to hold long envelopes, letters, bills, etc.
The library table (Fig. 196) is a good example of solid and permanent furniture construction. It represents the main principles of the mission style—solidity, strength, simplicity, straight lines, mortise and tenon joints, etc.
To a boy who has worked carefully up to this point it is entirely possible.
As the top is the only part to be glued up, this should be done first. Three boards of7⁄8-inch quartered oak 10 inches wide, or an equivalent that will aggregate a trifle over 30 inches, and 4 feet long, should be jointed and prepared for dowelling. The method of doing this is shown ata, where two jointed pieces are clamped together. The distance between dowels lengthwise should be measured, and lines squared across the edges with knife and try square. Two pencil lines, as atb, should be made across the joint. Set the marking gauge at7⁄16inch. Remove the boards from vise or clamp, and from the facestouched by pencil lines, gauge lines cutting across the three knife lines on each edge.
Fig. 196. A mission library table
Fig. 196. A mission library table
Where these lines cross, bore3⁄8-inch holes with a dowel bit to the depth of at least 1 inch. Lay outthe other dowelled joint in the same manner. Saw six pieces of3⁄8-inch dowel 2 inches long, and glue ends of each dowel in the holes prepared in the middle board, as shown atc.
Put a thin layer of glue on the joints with a brush and clamp the three pieces together. While the glue is hardening, proceed with the frame. This consists of four legs, four top rails, the lower cross rails, a shelf, and four wedges.
The sizes are as follows:
Top rails242 × 3 ×7⁄8Top rails224 × 3 ×7⁄8Cross rails2261⁄2× 3 ×7⁄8Shelf1443⁄4× 12 ×3⁄4or7⁄8Wedges421⁄2×7⁄8×3⁄4
The construction of the top rails is shown atdin the detail drawing. The only point calling for special attention is to see that the tenons are flush with outside of rail, being cut on only three sides, and the mitre at the end of each. The necessity for this mitre is shown in the drawing of the top of leg ate, where the two tenons are shown meeting in the blind mortises. The short rails are identical with those shown atd, except in length.
The detailed drawing of the legs is shown atf, and to make sure that the four are uniform, they should be laid out in pairs, the two at one endtogether, then the second pair; and finally the two pairs must be compared to discover any possibleinaccuracies. The cutting of the mortises may be hastened by boring several holes inside the lines from each side.
Fig. 196. A mission library table (continued)
Fig. 196. A mission library table (continued)
The drawing atgshows the layout of the lower rails, with tenons at the ends, and mortises on flat sides to receive the tenons on ends of the shelf. As in previous cases, these two pieces should be laid out together.
The most difficult work up to this point is the cutting of the two blind mortises at the top of each leg to receive the mitred tenons. This operation could be simplified, by replacing the mortise and tenon at that point by a dowel joint, but it would no longer be genuine mission furniture, and a much weaker form of construction.
The drawing of the long shelf explains itself, two tenons being cut at each end and a rectangular hole cut through each tenon for the wedge. The tenons are shown with a slight bevel, which is cut with a chisel when all other work is finished.
Before proceeding further, it will be wise to try and fit all the joints. Number or letter the two parts of each joint, as it is finished, to assist in the final assembling. This process of fitting should take some time, for it cannot be hurried safely. When it is finished, the way to fasten the top to the frame should be considered.
Several methods are in use, and two are shown athandi. Atha hole is bored at an angle in the rail. As it goes only part way through, it provides a shoulder for the screw head, and the screw is driven through a hole drilled for the purpose into the solid top.
If this method is used, at least ten screws would be needed for a table of this size, three on each side and two on each end.
The method shown atiis probably the better of the two. Blocks of wood of the shape and size given in the drawing are made and fitted into a groove ploughed in the rails.
This groove may be ploughed the full length of rail, or cut out for an inch or two with a chisel. The tongue and groove should fit snugly, and the block be securely fastened to the top with screws. Two blocks on each side and one on each end will be sufficient.
A simple method is to fasten top and frame by angle irons 2 inches long, on the inside.
This question having been decided, take the glued-up top from clamps and dress down to size. The under side should be trued up enough to fit neatly over tops of legs and rails, and the upper side should be planed, scraped, and sand-papered.
The final assembling should be done in this order:
Assemble the two ends separately. Each end consists of two legs, a top and a bottom rail. The mortise and tenon joints should be glued, and a clamp used at top and bottom. Test for squareness. When dry, remove clamps, insert shelf tenons and those of top rails in their mortises, and clamp lengthwise. Drive a wire brad through each tenon, from the side of leg least conspicuous, and set with nail punch.
Put on the top, and level bottom of legs where necessary. Remove all traces of glue, and fill brad holes with putty, coloured same as stain to be used.
Place wedges in mortises provided, and fasten each one with a small brad driven through the side of shelf tenons. Stain and polish.
This table is made low purposely, the legs being exactly two feet in length. The construction consists of four legs, two sets of cross rails, and a circular top two feet in diameter. As this top is too wide to be cut from one board, joint two pieces of7⁄8-inch stock, glue together, and place in clamp. The joint may be strengthened with dowels, as in previous cases. (Fig. 197.)
Fig. 197. A mission tea table
Fig. 197. A mission tea table
By proceeding in this order—gluing up first—no time need be lost in waiting. Square up the four legs and lay out the eight mortises, placing the four pieces in a vise or clamp to insure uniformity. Cut the mortises and lay the legs one side. The two sets of cross rails are to be halved at the centre, and may be straight or slightly curved, as shown. The curve improves the appearance without reducing the strength seriously, but if this form is decided on, the curve must be cut before laying out the halved joint.
After finishing the joint, the two rails of each set are clamped together and tenons laid out. Remove from clamp or vise and cut tenons. Test each set to make sure the halved joint at centre is satisfactory, and insert tenons in the mortises. Draw bore and fasten with round pins of the same material as the legs.
Before fastening the top rails in position, drill and countersink two holes in each piece for the screws, in the position shown in drawing. The bevels on end of tenons should be cut with the chisel before the final fastening.
The two boards composing the top when removed from clamps should be dressed flat on both sides, tested with a straight edge, and circle laid out with steel dividers set at a radius of twelve inches.
Saw close to this line with turning saw, chisel to line, and smooth with spokeshave and sand-paper block—a piece of pine 3 × 2 ×7⁄8inches, with the sand-paper tacked on the7⁄8-inch edge. Scrape and sand-paper top.
To fasten this top to the frame, lay the top upside down on the floor, and set the frame, inverted, on it. Measure carefully to locate the frame in proper position, and fasten with four 21⁄2or 23⁄4inch flathead screws. Assuming that all parts of the frame have been scraped and sand-papered before assembling, the table is ready for polishing.
Oak is the wood commonly used for this piece of furniture, but if well seasoned, chestnut is lighter in weight and just as satisfactory as to grain and finish. (Seestaining and polishing.)
Sometimes in mission furniture the legs of the table are allowed to come up through the top. This design is shown atFig. 198. The diameter of the top is 24 inches, but the height is increased, as this is designed as a centre or reading table. On account of the support furnished by the shoulder at the top of legs, the top set of rails is omitted, and the fastening made by four angle irons securely screwed to the top and legs.
This table, on account of the greater span between the legs, is as stable as the previous design. The cross rails are halved, and may be straight or curved on under side. If desired, a commodious shelf may be had by fastening a circular piece 19 inches or less in diameter to the top of cross rails. This will need to be glued up and cut like top piece.
Fig. 198. A mission style centre table
Fig. 198. A mission style centre table
The square tenon at the top of legs is shown in the detailed drawing, and care should be taken in laying out to insure the distance from the shoulderto bottom of leg being alike on all four, if the top is to be level.
Fig. 199. Mission plant stand
Fig. 199. Mission plant stand
After gluing up and dressing down the top, lay out circle and two-inch square openings for the tenons. Test these squares carefully before cutting, to make sure they are equally spaced, saw out circle, and finish as in previous table. Saw out the squares close to line and finish with chisel. In putting on angle irons, screw them to the top first and press it tightly down on the shoulders before fastening to legs. A strong cleat 18 or 20 inches long fastened to under side of top across the grain with four or five screws will help to prevent warping, but is not absolutely necessary. If the circular shelf is added, it is to be fastened to cross rails by screws from the under side through drilled holes.
Boys who have followed the preceding instructions will be able to plan and construct the following designs without detailed explanations.
The two drawings for plant stands are in the nature of suggestions, and although taken from pieces actually made they show the great difference in form that is possible in meeting the same conditions.
Fig. 200. Design for a plant stand
Fig. 200. Design for a plant stand
Fig. 199is thoroughly representative of the so-called mission style with its mortise and tenon joints and straight square legs.
The shelf for holding the jardinière is indicated by dotted lines, and it is held by cleats fastened to the sides by flat-head screws.
A dark finish, antique or rich brown, is appropriate for either design.Fig. 200shows a radically different form. The shelf is octagonal or square with the corners cut at 45 degrees to fit the legs.
The detail view shows the arrangement of lower rails meeting the legs at the same angle. The endsof rails are mitred and secured by wire nails set below the surface and holes filled. The fastening between upper shelf and legs may be either round-head blue screws or dowel pins of the same material as the legs, with the outer ends slightly rounded.
The shape of the legs makes this design weaker thanFig. 199, but their spread results in a more stable base and makes this stand less liable to upset.
The foot rest (Fig. 201) is to be provided with a cushion covered with leather nailed on with large-head craftsman nails.
Fig. 201. Foot rest. Fig. 202. Footstool in mission style
Fig. 201. Foot rest. Fig. 202. Footstool in mission style
The cushion may be filled with hair, excelsior, or even fine shavings, securely sewed in a cover of ticking and held in place by the leather cover. The leather must be brought down and nailed to the lower edge of the cross rails. Fasten the top to cleats screwed on inside of ends.
Fig. 202shows the same problem worked out in straight lines, the leather being nailed to all four top rails.
Photograph by Helen W. CookeAssembling and Finishing.
Photograph by Helen W. Cooke
Assembling and Finishing.
Figs. 203 and 204. Mission desks. A study in design
Figs. 203 and 204. Mission desks. A study in design
Each of these pieces of furniture suggests a new one, and chairs, settees, umbrella stands, writing desks, etc., may be made along the same general lines.
The plant stand (Fig. 199) suggests the umbrella rack. The shelf is simply shifted from the top to bottom and provided with a brass tray to catch the water. Valuable suggestions for such furniture may be obtained by consulting catalogues of furniture, and by constant observations of well-made pieces.
These designs should never be copied, but used only as aids to the working out of original ideas.
The typical writing desk shown atFig. 203illustrates this point. While fairly well proportioned, the legs could well be heavier. The drawer is also faulty. Its position makes it necessary to move away from the desk in order to open it. The lower cross rail will be a nuisance when sitting close enough to write and other features might be criticised. Whether your design will be a success or not depends on the clearness with which all these details are thought out.Fig. 204shows several of the above defects corrected.