CHAPTER VIInterior Finish

58. Lathing; Grounds.—Lathing is usually considered a part of the plasterer's work but the carpenter is expected to prepare the grounds and place the necessary furrings. The success of the plasterer depends in no small degree upon the way the carpenter does this work. If corners are not firmly constructed, cracks will be sure to appear in the plastering.

In lathing, joints must be broken upon different studding every dozen lath, and joints are not to be allowed about a door or window opening where their presence would weaken the wall; such as short lath nailed at one end only. Neither are lath to be placed at right angles to the usual run of lath on the wall because uneven shrinkage would cause the plaster to crack.

That the plasterer may make walls true and of uniform thickness about door and window openings and along the floor, grounds are placed as inFig. 118.Such grounds are of stock if 13/16" × 1" or 2" nailed firmly to the studding. Grounds for base should be placed so that the wall may be lathed and plastered entirely to the floor that cold and vermin may be kept out.

Fig. 118. Plaster Grounds

Fig. 119. Detail of Partition Wall

For grounds on external corners in a room, metallic corners especially manufactured for this purpose are recommended.

The beginner will be surprised at the numberless places requiring attention in preparing for the plasterer. He should visualize every corner and angle as he thinks the plasterer or lather must have it.

59. Interior Walls.—Fig. 119illustrates the construction of a corner of an interior wall which is to be recommended highly for strength. All door studding are to be doubled for strength, also window openings of unusual size.

Interior door jambs are not usually placed until after plastering has been done. Thresholds are no longer used with interior openings where both rooms are to be heated.

Joists doubled to support partitions should be spread sufficiently to allow furnace pipes to enter, and still provide bearing for partition studs.

Badly crooked studs in a partition wall may be straightened by sawing a kerf on the hollow side, almost thru, and wedging with a shingle point. A cleat nailed to the side of the stud after wedging will give the original strength. Straight studs should be selected for use about openings.

In setting studs for interior door jambs where studs are to be doubled on the inside, add to the width of door enough to make the outer edges of the casings center on studs, and double inside these, as in figuring openings between studs for outside door jambs. Make allowance for the extra thickness of stud on each side. For height of opening, where no threshold is to be used, add 2½" to the height of the door. Remember that enough more must be cut from vertical studs to allow for thickness of header.

60. Stair Building; Porch Steps.—Stair building is an art in itself and as such belongs to millwork rather than to carpentry. However, the carpenter must know the principles of simple stair lay-out and construction for he is called upon to construct porch steps, basement and often attic stairs. In smaller communities he may also have to build the main stair.Fig. 120illustrates three common types of stair.

In planning a stair, the first requisite is to know its rise and run,Fig. 121.The rise in this case is the vertical distance measured from the top of the first floor to the top of the second floor. The run is the horizontal span of the stair.

Fig. 120-a-b Types of Stairs Fig. 120-c

Fig. 121. Rise and Run of Stair

A good average stair for a cottage will have a rise per step of 7 inches and a run of tread of 10 inches. Variations will have to be made in both rise and tread to meet conditions, but the student may take these dimensions as starting dimensions unless otherwise directed. Steps should not be either too steep, due to excessive rise per foot, or "slow" due to extreme width of step. An old rule for determining the relation of rise to tread is: "Twice the rise plus the tread should equal 24"."

Proceed as follows: (1) Lay off on a story pole the total rise of the stair by placing the pole upright in the well hole. (2) Set a pair of dividers to 1" and step off this distance so marked. If there is a remainder, increase or diminish the divider's space and again step off the space. Continue this until a setting is obtained which gives no remainder. The number of risers will be found by counting the spaces, and the rise per step by measuring one of thesespaces. (3) If the run of the stair is not of exact specification (some variation is usually possible) the run per step or tread may be determined by the rule just given. If a definite total run is specified the tread must be figured. (4) Since there is always one more riser than tread, the run per step is obtained by dividing the total run in inches by the number of risers less one. The numbers thus obtained for rise and run per step are the ones to be used on the framing square in laying out the stringers.

Fig. 122. Laying out String

Fig. 123. Pitch Board.

Fig. 124. Economical Center Stringer

(5) Joint one edge of each stringer straight and square and place the framing square as inFig. 122and scribe along both blade and tongue. (6) Scribe the lineAparallel to the 9" run, at a distance from it equal to the rise diminished by the thickness of the proposed tread. (7) Continue to lay the square as in (5) until the required number of steps have been laid out. A pitch board might have been constructed and made use of instead of the framing square in laying out the stringers. This is nothing more than a piece of stock which serves as a template by which to lay out therise and run of each step,Fig. 123.A cleat or fence nailed to one edge after the three edges have been planed to dimensions permits easy and accurate placing of the same.

(8) There remains the sawing out. On open stringers this is done by sawing square across the board or plank. Where the exposed ends of risers would make a bad appearance, the cuts in the stringers for risers are made mitering and the ends of the risers are mitered correspondingly. In either case the end of the riser will be flush with the exposed side of the stringer or string.

Fig. 124illustrates an economical way of constructing a center stringer, a 2" × 4" having nailed to its top edge the waste cut from the side or wall stringers.

Fig. 125. Stringer for Attic Stair

61. Risers and Treads.—Upon the common stair, such as attic and porch, etc., treads and risers are placed as inFig. 120, being nailed to place, risers first and then treads.

On porch steps and open stringers, the treads should overhang at their ends an amount equal to that given the front. The cove, if one be used, should be carried around and "returned" under the end of the tread.

On enclosed or semi-enclosed stringers, a combination of stringer and wall board is commonly used.Fig. 125illustrates a type of construction often used upon attic stairs. In this the side stringers are framed of 1" stock and then nailed to the wall board of similar thickness. Such construction is not suited for first floor stair work where the effects of shrinkage would show to greater disadvantage.

Fig. 126. Main Stair Detail

Fig. 126illustrates the manner of framing a modern stair suitablefor a first floor where the best type of construction is demanded. As a rule, such stair work will be done at a mill and the stair brought to the building knock-down. The carpenter will have framed the rough stringers which are to support the ceiling below the stair, and placed them so that they may be used as a temporary stair for the workmen. If the stairway is an open one or semi-open, the plastering under these stringers will have been placed, the stair being put together on the floor and then raised to its place. If the well-hole is such that the stair must be assembled while the strings or wall boards are in place, the lath and plaster must be left off the rough stringers until after the stair has been assembled and the wedges glued and driven in place as shown in the illustration. Rough stringers must be placed far enough from the sides of the well-hole so that the wall board may settle in place and that the wedges may be easily placed, usually about 4" or 5" from the wall will be sufficient.

62. Porches.—Fig. 127illustrates the manner of framingthe floor of a porch. Such framework should be given a pitch downward away from the house of about 1" in 10' that the water may be drained.

Fig. 127. Detail of Porch Framing

Fig. 128illustrates the manner of placing water table and flooring, etc. Water table is first placed, the corners being mitered and the whole furred out from the frame about a quarter of an inch to allow any dampness to escape. Porch floors should have their joints painted with lead just before being laid.

Fig. 128. Detail of Porch Finish

Posts and balusters are usually placed after the porch roof has been placed, the upper frame being temporarily supported by studs.

InFig. 127is also shown the manner of framing the bearing joists, ceiling joists and rafters for a hip roof. The various cuts are obtained in the same manner as are similar cuts on the main roof. Porch roofs are seldom given as much pitch as the main roof. They do not need as much and must, usually, be kept below the window sill line of the second story.

Fig. 128also illustrates a common type of trim for porchcornice. Where supporting plates are long, a flitch plate girder is formed of them by the insertion between them of a stiff plate of structural steel of suitable length and width.

63. Interior Finish.—A part of the carpenter's duty is the placing of all interior finish, such as base boards, door jambs, etc. Formerly the carpenter made, or "got out" his trim by hand but today he finds it much pleasanter and cheaper to buy the machine-made product of the mill. Even door and window frames are usually purchased from the mill, either assembled or knock-down.

64. Setting Door Jambs.—If the studs about interior door openings have been carefully selected for straightness and properly set or plumbed, the setting of the door jamb should be an easy matter, If this work has not been properly done, considerable ingenuity will be required oftentimes to get the frame set so that its edges are out of wind and the frame plumb. If a jamb should not be set plumb and out of wind, the operation of making a door fit its stops properly is a most trying one and the result usually unsatisfactory. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the necessity for proper placing of studs and jambs. (1) Saw off the head lugs just enough to allow the frame to be placed in the opening. (2) Cut a spacing stick of a length sufficient to reach from the floor to the under surface of the head jamb when that member is in its proper place. (3) Place the head jamb at one of its ends upon this stick and tack the jamb to the stud lightly. (4) Level the head jamb and lightly tack the second jamb, inserting wedging blocks or shingle points between the jamb and stud. A spread stick cut to hold the jambs apart properly at the base is desirable. (5) Lay a piece of finish floor against the face of each jamb and scribe along the top of this to indicate where the jambs must be cut off to fit the finish floor when it is placed. It is taken for granted that the finish floor is to be laid last. If a finish floor is not to be used, or if it is to be placed before the wall trim, the headjamb will be leveled but not located as to height, the dividers being used to scribe the feet, being set so that the proper amount will be cut off to allow the jamb to rest at the right height when cut to the scribed lines. (6) Remove the jamb and saw to the scribed lines. (7) Replace the frame and tack it at one side after plumbing it both on its face side and face edge. See that the jamb is at the right height by inserting the blocks of flooring used in scribing to length. (8) Tack the second side-jamb close to the head. (9) Sight across the edges of these jambs and adjust the loose jamb until the frame is out of wind. Plumb its face, blocking the back. Shingles placed point to point provide easy blocking where the space is not too large. A straight-edge placed against the face of a jamb will indicate whether it has been sprung in the blocking or wedging between jamb and stud.

65. Fitting Window Sash.—Sash are often fitted before the house is plastered and before the sash are glazed. (1) Joint the top and sides of the top sash, chamfering the arrises very slightly by a stroke or two with the plane. (2) Cut and fit the meeting rails about the parting stops remembering to leave a little "play," that successive coats of paint on the stops may not cause binding, 1/16" on each side is not too much. (3) Joint the edges of the lowersash. (4) Since the bottom rail has not been beveled, only the lugs sawed off, the meeting rails will appear with reference to one another as inFig. 129.Set a pair of dividers to a distance equal to that between the tops of the meeting rails. This can be done by placing the dividers between the meeting rails. (5) Scribe the bottom rail as indicated inFig. 130.If the sash has been glazed so that the outer face of the bottom rail is not accessible from the inside, the scribing is to be done on the inside of the bottom rail and a T-bevel set to the slope of the sill and this used to transfer the angle to the edges of the sash. Before scribing the bottom rail, see that the meeting rails are apart a uniform distance across the sash. (6) Saw and then plane to the scribed line.

Where sash weights are to be used, they are easiest placed before lathing. The proper tying of a sash cord so that it shall not work loose with time is a matter for careful instruction by the teacher. No good carpenter will have his sash cords coming untied. The cord can be cut the estimated length after the weight has been attached, and a knot or loop tied in the free end so that the cord shall not slip thru the pulley.

In case weights are not placed before the lath and plaster, it will be necessary to make use of a "duck" to draw the end of the sash cord up thru the removed pocket cover of the jamb. This "duck" is usually a piece of lead beaten about one end of a piece of stout short cord. This lead weight is lowered thru the pulley by means of a longer cord, the end of the sash cord is then fastened to the longer cord, after removing the duck, and then drawn up and thru the pulley.

To determine the length of sash cord, draw the sash weight to the top of the jamb and, setting a sash upon the sill, mark and cut the cord about four or five inches below the opening in the edge of the sash in which the knotted end of the cord is to rest.

Fig. 131. Using Block to Locate Door Stop Position on Jamb

66. Placing Door, Window, and other Trim.—InFig. 110-ais shown one of the many styles of casing in common use. Base blocks and casing stock are prepared at the mill and the carpenter has but to cut these to the proper lengths and fit and attach them. (1) The base block is first placed, tho some workmen prefer to fit the base first, cutting it to a length such as will allow the proper placing of the block after the base is nailed in position. Where the finish floor is laid last, this block will be scribed at its bottom by means of a piece of flooring, otherwise the dividers would be used. (2) After the blocks are placed the casings are cut to length and nailed. (3) The head member is next made up and placed. It is customary for all door and window heads, where built up, to be constructed at one time. It should be noted that door casings are not placed flush with the face of the jamb. They should be kept back about 5/16". This is to allow the easy placing of hinges and also for appearance' sake. In all casing work the expedient of sawing under at the back should be supplemented by the use of the block plane, where necessary, that tight joints may result.

Window stool stock, like that of casings, is prepared at a mill and needs only to be cut to length and have the ends "returned" to match the face edge. (1) Lower the sash, then fit the stool to this allowing enough "play" that subsequent paint or varnish may not cause the stool to bind the lower rail of the sash. (2) Place and nail the apron. (3) Cut and place the side casings.Note that side casings are placed flush with the face of the jambs. The crack so formed is concealed when the stop bead is placed. (4) Place the head.

Fig. 132. Door Parts

Base boards and base mould may now be placed. Blocks of a thickness of the finish floor placed along the wall at frequent intervals will serve to locate the position of the base above the rough floor, when the finish floor is to be laid afterward. Internal corners of base mould and picture mould, when of irregular face, should be coped. External corners should have mitered joints. Shoe mould will be placed after the finish floor is laid.

Stop beads may next be placed in the windows and in such doors as are not rabbeted. Head stops are placed first and the side stops then coped to these. A block of a width equal to the thickness of the door will be an aid in placing stops easily,Fig. 131.Window stops should be so placed that the lower sash may move freely as it is raised.

67. Hanging Doors.—In the fitting of large doors, such as in dwellings, allowance must be made for subsequent coats of varnish or paint, usually a scant 1/16" is allowed at top and each side of a door. The bottom of a door is often not touched, except to saw away the lugs of the stiles, until after the door is hung. The door is hinged, then closed and the bottom scribed to the floor so as to allow the door to swing over rugs or carpet freely. Where a threshold is to be used, the door is scribed to fit the thickness of the proposed threshold. ⅛" should be allowed at the bottom of the door for play. If a door has a stile with a bow in its face, it should be turned so that the bow is next the stop of the lock side.

Fig. 133. Measuring Opening

68. Fitting a Door.—The names of the parts of a door and their relative positions are indicated inFig. 132.(1) Mark with a try-square and saw off the lugs, the parts of the stiles which project beyond the rails. (2) Plane an edge of the door until it fits the side of the frame against which it is to be hung. If the frame is straight, this edge may be planed straight. It is not wise to take for granted the squareness or straightness of a frame. A test or series of tests may first be made with square and straight-edge. A mechanic, however, usually planes an edge until it fits the frame, testing by holding the door against the frame as near to its position as its size will allow. (3) Measure the width of the frame at its top and bottom,Fig. 133, and transfer these dimensions to the top and bottom of the door,Fig. 134.When approaching the line, in planing, place the door against the frame often enough to see where the allowances must be made for irregularities in the frame. (4) Plane the top edge of the door until it fits the frame properly when the first planed edge is in position. (5) The length of the door will be determined by scribing it to the floor after being hinged.

The edge of the door which is to swing free is usually planed slightly lower at the back arris than at the front. An examination of the movement of an ordinary house door will show the reason for this.

Fig. 134. Laying off Width

69. Hinging a Door.—The hinges most commonly used in carpentry are the kind known as butts. Where the door stands in a vertical position, hinges in which the two parts are joined by a loose pin are generally used. By removing the pins the door may be removed without taking the screws out of the hinge. Such hinges are more easily applied than those with the fixed pin. (1) Place the door in position; keep it tight against the top and the hinge side of the frame. (2) Measure from top and bottom of the door to locate the position for the top of the higher hinge and the bottom of the lower hinge. Usually, the lower hinge is placed somewhat farther from the bottom than the higher hinge is from the top. (3) With the knife or chisel mark on both door and frame at the points just located,Fig. 135.(4) Take out the door, place the hinge as inFig. 136, and mark along the ends with a knife. In a similar manner mark the frame. Make certain that the openings on door and on frame are laid off so as to correspond before proceeding further, (5) Set the gage for the depth the hinge is to be sunkFig. 137and gage both door and frame. (6) Set another gage for width of openings,Fig. 138, and gage both door and frame, keeping the head of the gage against the front of the door. (7) Chisel out these gains on door and frame,Fig. 139.(8) If loose-pin butts are used, separate the parts and fasten them in place. Use a spiral drill to make openings for the screws. To insure the hinges' pulling tight against the side of the gain make the holes just a little nearer the back side of the screw hole of the hingePut the door in place and insert the pins. It is a good mechanic who can make a door hang properly the first time it is put up. It is better, therefore, to insert but one or two screws in each part of a hinge until the door has been tried. (9) If the door hangs away from the frame on the hinge side, take it off; take off hinge on door or frame, or both if the crack is large; chisel the gain deeper at its front. By chiseling at the front only and feathering the cut toward the back, the gain needs to be cut but about one-half as deep as if the whole hinge were sunk. If the door should fail to shut because the hinge edge strikes the frame to soon, the screws of the offending hinge must be loosened and a piece of heavy paper or cardboard inserted along the entire edge of the gain. Fasten the screws and cut off the surplus paper with a knife. If plain butt hinges are used the operations are similar to those just described except that the whole hinge must be fastened to the door and the door held in place while fastening the hinges to the frame.

Fig. 135. Locating HingePosition

Fig. 136. Knifing HingeLocation

70. Fitting Locks.—Two types of lock are in common use upon dwelling doors, the rim and the mortise lock. The rim lock,Fig. 140, is used upon cheapconstruction and is attached to the outer surface of the door. The mortise lock is used upon the better class of work; the box is housed into a mortise and the selvage into a gain cut into the edge of the door stile. Door locks are made so that the bolts may be reversed to fit either right or left hand doors. This is accomplished by removing a screw in the side of the box and carefully lifting the bolt, replacing it in reversed position. A right hand door is one which swings to the right when pushed open.

To attach a rim lock: (1) Place the lock against the side of the door and mark thru the key hole and knob spindle hole with a sharp awl or divider point. (2) Remove the lock and bore appropriate sized holes. (3) Fasten the lock and place the escutcheons, knob spindle and knobs. (4) Locate and attach the strike or latch plate.

Fig. 139. Gain Ready for Hinge

To place a mortise lock,Fig. 141: (1) In a manner similar to that used in placing the rim lock, locate the knob spindle andkey holes. A more accurate result is obtained if the knob spindle hole is located by four points, one at each corner of the square,Fig. 142.In placing the lock, keep the selvage back from the edge of the door a scant 1/16" so that the selvage may be sunk below the edge of the door by that amount when mortised in.

Fig. 140. Rim Lock

Fig. 141. Mortise Lock

This will permit the door to be trimmed without the removal of the lock in case the door should swell after being fitted and locked. (2) Bore the holes for knob spindle and key. (3) Locate a center line on the edge of the stile and bore for the mortise which shall receive the box of the lock. (4) Place the box and then mark about the protruding selvage using a sharp knife,Fig. 143.(5) Remove the lock and "gain in" the selvage,Fig. 144.(6) Fasten the lock by means of the screws thru the selvage and attach the escutcheons, knob spindle and knobs. (7) Close the door and mark the vertical position of the latch upon the jamb. (8) Open the door and place the latch or strike plate, locating its verticalposition by means of the knife marks just made upon the jamb, and its horizontal position by a measurement taken from the latch to the face of the door; transfer to the jamb by rule or gage. (9) Scribe about the plate and then gain it into the jamb. On a door with a rabbeted jamb instead of an adjustable stop, the essential measurement will be from the back arris of the stile to the front of the latch. (10) Attach the plate, then chisel out the openings for latch and bolt.

Equally common is the practice of taking step (3) first, with steps (1) and (2) taken after step (5).

71. Laying and Scraping Floors.—Quarter-sawed stock makes the best wearing floor. However, oak wears well in either plain or quarter-sawed forms. All hard wood finish floors are milled with tongues and grooves on edges and ends. Holes for nailing are usually drilled at the mill also.

Fig. 142. Locating Knob Spindle Hole

In laying a finish floor, it is not advisable to lay it with its lengths extending in the same direction as those of the rough floor. The shrinkage of the wide boards of the under floor will open unseemly cracks in the finish floor. Where it is necessary to run lengths for both floors in the same direction the finish floor should be separated from the rough floor by thin furring, such as lath, placed 16" apart. Rough floors laid diagonally overcome this difficulty. Paper is usually placed between the two floors. Care should be taken in starting a floor to select straight boards. Where grooves fail to fit tongues of boards that are laid, a piece of 2" × 4" about 3' or 4' long should be used as a pounding block that thetongue of the board being laid may not be battered, the most common cause of trouble in floor laying. Nails are driven "toeing" thru the board just above the tongue that the heads may be concealed and also to better draw the board in position. Hammer marks showing upon the face of a floor indicate carelessness. It is not necessary that nails should always strike joists, for a good rough floor will hold such nails with sufficient firmness. Where nails must be driven into hard maple, a hole must be drilled first. On the great majority of hard woods the dipping of the point of the nail in soap or oil will cause it to enter the wood with careful driving, without the drilling of a hole.

Fig. 143. Locating Selvage Gain

Fig. 144. Ready for the Lock

After a hardwood floor has been laid it should be scraped. Scraping floors is a tedious task at best. Electrically driven machines now relieve the carpenter of much of this work, the floors being laid and finished by a specialist in floor work. The shoemould is placed last, being nailed to the floor, so that any shrinkage of the joists will cause the mould to drop with the floor. Base board and shoe mould should be stained, but not varnished, before the mould is placed.

On account of waste in tonguing and grooving and straightening flooring stock, an allowance of from ⅕ to ¼ extra is necessary in estimating.

Fig. 145. Detail of Door Frame

72. Door and Window Frames.—Like other carpentry detail, window and door frames may be constructed in any one of a number of styles.Fig. 145illustrates a satisfactory type of door frame for cottage use. The sill will be given a pitch or fall of 1" in 12" and will have its ends housed into the jambs. The jambs will be assembled first, being nailed together. Next, the side casings are fitted at their lower ends, cut to length and nailed. Frequently they are nailed and then cut to length. The head casing with its cap is next placed.

Fig. 146illustrates a common type of cottage window frame. The method of procedure is not unlike that described for the door frame. The sill will be grooved on its under side to receive the top edge of the siding board and given a fall of 1" in 10". Jambs must be grooved to receive a parting stop as shown. Whereweights are to be used each jamb must have a pocket as detailed. The stock sawed out of the jamb may be made use of for pocket cover stock by proper manipulation. Pulleys may be placed before the jambs are assembled, at least the holes for them should be prepared.

Fig. 146. Detail of Window Frame

There are a number of "tricks of the trade" in frame making. Their presentation must be left to the instructor, for the making of frames belongs to millwork and space can be spared here for general directions only.

73. Woodwork in Masonry Structures.—Wood framing in brick and other masonry buildings is but slightly different from that wholly in wood.Fig. 147illustrates the manner of framing the ends of joists which rest in solid masonry walls. The ends are shaped as indicated so that, in case of fire, the floors in falling will not pull over the walls, but will fall free. Anchors are used to tie the building together, and these are to be placed near the lower edge of the joists so that they may split out of the joists easily or allow the floor to drop free, in case of a falling of the floor and joists.

A popular type of construction is that known as brick veneer,Fig. 148.It consists of an ordinary framed house with a covering of brick as shown. These bricks are fastened to the wall bymetallic bonds. From the outside, the building has all of the appearance of solid brick, while it is claimed that a wall so formed is warmer than one of solid brick.

Fig. 147-a Fig. 147-bJoist Framed into Brick Wall

Fig. 148. Brick Veneer

Over openings in brick walls, lintels are required to support the arch,Fig. 150.

Fig. 149shows the manner of framing a window opening for a brick wall.Fig. 151illustrates the manner of attaching a plate to a brick wall.

Fig. 149. Window Detail for Brick Wall

Fig. 150. Lintels

Fig. 151. Attaching Plate to Brick Wall

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