332
CASTILIAN DAYS
hour a vast multitude was assisting at what the polished academician calls a "more solemn ceremony," the bearing of the Virgin of the Atocha to the Convent of San Domingo el Real, to see if peradventure pleased by the airing, she would send rain to the parching fields.
The world speedily did justice to his name. Even before his death it had begun. The gentlemen of the French embassy who came to Madrid in 1615 to arrange the royal marriages asked the chaplain of the Archbishop of Toledo in his first visit many questions of Miguel Cervantes. The chaplain happened to be a friend of the poet, and so replied, "I know him. He is old, a soldier, a gentleman, and poor." At which they wondered greatly. But after a while, when the whole civilized world had trans-lated and knew the Quixote by heart, the Spaniards began to be proud of the genius they had neglected and despised. They quote with a certain fatuity the eulogy of Montesquieu, who says it is the only book they have; "a proposition" which Navarrete considers "inexact," and we agree with Navarrete. He has written a good book himself. The Spaniards have very frankly accepted the judgment of the world, and although they do not read Cervantes
CERVANTES
333
much, they admire him greatly, and talk about him more than is amusing. The Spanish Academy has set up a pretty mural tablet on the facade of the convent which shelters the tired bones of the unlucky immortal, enjoying now their first and only repose. In the Plaza of the Cortes a fine bronze statue stands facing the Prado, catching on his chiselled curls and forehead the first rays of morning that leap over the hill of the Retiro. It is a well-poised, energetic, chivalrous figure, and Mr. Ger-mond de Lavigne has criticised it as having more of the sabreur than the savant. The objection does not seem well founded. It is not pleasant for the world to be continually reminded of its meannesses. We do not want to see Cervantes's days of poverty and struggle eternized in statues. We know that he always looked back with fondness on his campaigning days, and even in his decrepit age he called himself a soldier. If there were any period in that troubled history that could be called happy, surely it was the time when he had youth and valor and hope as the companions of his toil. It would have been a precious consolation to his cheerless age to dream that he could stand in bronze, as we hope he may stand for centuries, in the un-
334
CASTILIAN DAYS
changing bloom of manhood, with the cloak and sword of a gentleman and soldier, bathing his Olympian brow forever in the light of all the mornings, and gazing, at evening, at the rosy reflex flushing the east,--the memory of the day and the promise of the dawn.
cd1-73.jpg
INDEX
INDEX
Adoration of the Shepherds, Murillo's, 168.
Alcalá de Henares, birthplace of Cervantes, 298; appearance of, 299, 300; garrison of, 301; people of, 302; university of, 302-307; church of Santa Maria la Mayor, 312.
Alcázar, Toledo, vicissitudes of, 248, 249.
Alguaciles, part of, in bull-fights, 97, 98.
Alonso VI., uniformity of worship demanded by, 228; wall built by, around Toledo, 245; Moorish mosque used by, 246.
Alonso VIII., statue of, at Toledo,
122.
America, effect of discovery of, 75;
Spanish emigration to, 147. American element, prominence of, in
Madrid, 17.
Andalusians, in Madrid, 8. Andrew, St., Murillo's painting of the
martyrdom of, 165.
Anglo-Saxons, religious forms outgrown by, 126.
Annunciation, Murillo's, 168. Aranda, Count, debt of Madrid to, 6,
20.
Aranjuez, royal palace of, 217, 218. Arjona, famous bull-fighter, no. Arrieros, origin of name, 196. Art, development of, in Spain, 145;
Spanish students of, in Italy, 148;
foreign students of, in Spain, 148;
various schools and masters of, in
Spain, 149; decline of, 151. Ash Wednesday, a popular ceremony
of, 140. Austria, House of, influence of, in
Spain, 145; portraits of Spanish
kings of, 158-160; profligacy of
Spanish kings of, 268, 269.
Baciocchi, anecdote of, 43.
Banderilleros, part of, in bull-fights, 103.
Bathing, dislike of, 66, 67; discouraged by Isabella the Catholic, 91.
Beggars, 117, 192, 211, 213, 234, 300.
Berruguete, carvings of, 148.
Boisel, anecdote of Segovia by, 207.
Borbon, Louisa Carlota de, 200-202.
Borrachos, painting of the, by Velazquez, 172, 173.
Bouillon,----de, pension of, 278.
Breda, Surrender of, painting by Velazquez, 169.
Bull-fights, vain ettort to transplant, 90; royal attempts to abolish, 91; two famous, 92; sacrifices made to attend, 93; danger from cowardly bulls in, 102; play-bills of, 111,112; statistics of, 112; defense of, 113; decadence of, 114; former splendors of, 115, 116.See alsoAlguaciles, Banderilleros, Chulos, Matadors, Picadors.
Burial, lack of ceremony attending, 55; heathen rites attending, 86; right of, denied to Protestants, 273.
Burial of the Sardine, an Ash Wednesday ceremony, 140.
Caballero, Fernán, illiteracy of Spanish women approved by, 41.
Calderón, decline of interest in masterpieces of, io.
Calomarde, Minister of Ferdinand VII., 201, 202.
Capa, use of, 27, 28.
Capital cities, reasons for choice of,
3» 4-Carlos V., Don, son of Philip II.,
portrait of, 159; character of, 268. Carlos VII., Don, portrait of, on
cigarette boxes, 25.
338
INDEX
Carnival, survival of the true, in Madrid, 136; costumes of, 137, 138; outgrown by the rest of the continent, 139; renewal of, in Lent, 140.
Carpió, Marcela de, daughter of Lope de Vega, 325; gifts of, 326; poem by, 327, 328.
Carreño, portrait of Charles the Bewitched by, 160.
Castelar, Emilio, portrait of, on cigarette boxes, 25; idea of liberty of, 88; comments of, on Toledo, 216.
Castellana, winter promenades in the,
21.
Catalans, in Madrid, 8.
Catholic unity, method of attaining, 229, 295-297.
Celts, in Ireland and in Iberia, 124.
Cemeteries, desolation of, in Spain, 131, '32.
Cervantes, birth-place of, 298, 309-311; burial-place cf, 299, 331; sketch of life of, 314-316; religious life of, 318; bigotry of, 319; pension of, 320; late works of, 320, 330; poverty of, 321; daughter of, 321, 325; description of himself, 322; friends of, 322, 323; relations of, with Lope de Vega, 324; memorials to, 333-
Chapels, in the bull-rings, 105.
Charity, proceeds of Spanish carnival for, 137.
Charles I., of England, famous bullfight in honor of, 92.
Charles III., of Spain, debt of Madrid to, 6; establishment of the Prado by, 20; growing importance of work done by, 32.
Charles V. of Germany, I. of Spain, art encouraged by, 146, 150; portrait of, by Titian, 158; opening of coffin of, 265.
Charles the Bewitched, portrait of, 160.
Chicago, compared with Madrid, 7.
Christine, Queen of Ferdinand VII., 201; meeting of, as Regent, with revolutionists, 202.
Christmas, celebration of, by the proletariat, 132-135.
Church.SeePriesthood.
Church and State, identified interests of, 69, 73, 75, 79, 84; movement favoring separation of, 274.
Chulos, part of, in bull-fights, 104.
Cicer, modern use of the Roman, 37.
Cigarettes.SeeTobacco.
Claret, Padre, 46.
Claude, paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 183.
Clergy.SeePriesthood.
Coello, Claudio, altar-picture by, in Escorial, 262.
Competition, for public employment, 39- _
Constitution of 1812, movement in favor of, 202; proclaimed by Christine, as Regent, 203.
Corpus Christi, festival of, 124, 125.
Costillares, famous bull-fighter, 114.
Courbet, refusal of, to be decorated, 172.
Courtesy, invariable forms of, 49, 50.
Creoles, of the Antilles, characteristics of, 16, 17.
Cuchares, famous bull-fighter, m.
Daunoy, Madame, observations of, 67; anecdote of Philip IV., told by, 268.
Dead, ceremonies in memory of the, 131, 132.
Devil's Bridge, Segovian legend of, 210.
Domesticity, strong feature of Spanish life, 33, 34-
Drama, French influence on, in Madrid, 10.
Dream of the Roman Gentleman, 168.
Diirer, Albert, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.
Dyck, Sir Anthony van, paintings by, at Madrid, 185, 186.
Egas, Enrique de, work of, in Toledo,
247. Elizabeth Farnese, wife of Philip V.,
200. Elizabeth, St., ol Hungary, Murillo's,
168, 169. Epiphany, farce performed by the
lowest orders on eve of the, 135;
celebration in burgher society, 136.
INDEX
339
Escorial, reasons for building, 5, 255; situation of, 257; form of, 258; church of, 259-265; reliquary of, 261; miraculous wafer of, 262; pictures of, 263; crypt of, 264, 265; library of, 269; schools of, 271; teachings of, 276.
Escovedo, Juan, aqueduct of Segovia repaired by, 210.
Españolismo, 64, 118.
Eugene, St., first cathedral of Toledo built by, 222.
Eugenic, empress of the French, belief of, in relics, 43.
Fairs, street, 129-131.
Family life.SeeDomesticity; Parental discipline.
Family names.SeeNames, family.
Fede, Lucrezia, portrait of, 178.
Ferdinand VII., famous bull-fight given by, 92; establishment of Madrid gallery by, 152; decree in favor of Don Carlos revoked by, 201.
Festival of Bulls, 92.
Feudal taxes, continued payment of, 63, 64.
Forestallers.SeeSpeculators.
Forman, Helen, wife of Rubens, 184.
Frascuelo, bull-fighter, 104, 115.
Freedom of the press, 273, 274.
Freedom of worship, 85.
French language, the missionary of mental equality, 12.
Fritters, consumption of, during Verbena of St. John, 127, 128.
Frugality of the Spaniards, 38.
Gallicians, in Madrid, 7, 26.
Garbanzos, great use of, 37.
Giordano, Luca, imitation of Raphael and Rubens by, 162; vast number of pictures by, 163; frescoes by, in church of the Escorial, 260, 262.
Gloria, Titian's, at Madrid, 129, 180.
Golden Key, the manual of confession, 46.
Good Friday, observance of, 141.
Goths, wall built by, around Toledo, 245.
Government positions, competition for, 39.
Grain, manner of threshing, 193.
Granja, La, castle of Philip V., 6; situation of, 189; approach to, 197, 198; gardens of, 199; history of, 200-202; fountains of, 204, 205; interior of, 206.
Graveyards.SeeCemeteries.
Gutiérrez, Miss, Spanish actress, 281.
Gypsy fortune-tellers, Murillo's, 167,
Henry of Trastamara (Henry II., of
Castile), 211. Holidays, frequency of, 117; political,
118.See alsoCorpus Christi;
Fairs; St. John, Verbena of; San
Isidro.
Holofernes, paintings of death of, 162. Holy Family, Giordano's painting of,
162; Murillo's, 166. Holy Thursday, observance of, 141. Honor, Spanish idea of, 71; effect of,
81, 83. Horses, use of, in bull-fights, 94, 99-
103.
Hospitality, Moorish origin of Spanish, 50.
Ildefonso, San, visit of the Virgin to, 225, 226; visit of Santa Leocadia to, 227; burial-place of, 244.
Illo, Pepe, famous bull-fighter, 90, "4-
Imperialism, Spanish expectation of, in America, 191.
Individuality, intense feeling of, 34; expression of, 73.
Inquisition, old palace of the, Madrid, 31.
Isabella I., the Catholic, opposed to bathing and bull-fights, 91; chapel to San Isidro built by, 121; church of San Juan de los Reyes finished by, 237-
Isabella II. of Bourbon, expulsion of, 85; bull-fight in honor of, 92; recognition of rights of, to the throne, 201.
Isidro, San, festival of, 120, 122-124 i miracles of, 121; statue of, at Toledo, 122.
Italy, Spanish emigration to, 147.
340
INDEX
Jacob, Ribera's painting of Ladder-Dream of, 174.
Jews, Spanish hatred of, 229, 288; mediaeval synagogues built by, in Toledo, 236.
John, St., Verbena of, 127.
Jordaens, painting by, in the Belvedere, 172.
Juanes, Juan de, paintings by, 164.
Juni, Juan de, painting by, at Segovia,
212.
King, divine attributes of Spanish, 74, 77, 80.
Laboring classes, in Madrid, 37; revels of, at Christmas, 134; at Epiphany, 135.
Lagartijo, inscription on sword of, no.
Language, democracy of, 256.
Last Supper, by Juanes, 164; by Titian, 179.
Latin races, demand of outward religious forms by, 125.
La Torre, Duchess of, of Cuban origin, 17-
Lemos, Count of, Cervantes pensioned by, 320-
Lent, former ceremonies of, 140, 141; present observances of, 141.
Leocadia, Santa, visit of, to San Ildefonso, 227; burial-place of, 244.
Leonardo, Mona Lisa of, at Madrid, 178.
Lepanto, Titian's picture of the Battle of, 181.
Lerma, Duke of, power of, 77.
Liberti, Van Dyck's portrait of, 185.
Lisbon, superiority of, over Madrid as a capital, 5.
London, only possible capital for England, 3.
Lorraine, Claude.SeeClaude.
Luna, Alvaro de, burial-place of, 225.
Machinery, Spanish scorn for improved, 193, 194.
Madrid, choice of, as capital of Spain, 3-5; natural characteristics of, 5; debt of, to Charles III., 6; inferior natural attractions of, 6, 7; best
point to study Spanish life, 7; for-eign population of, 8; foreign influence on music and drama of, 9, 10; on manners of, 11; on language of,
12; characteristics of best society of,
13: social schisms in, 14; social life of Tertulias of, 15, 16; Creoles of, 16 > American element in, 17; unattractive environs of, 17; satisfaction of inhabitants with, 19; Prado of, 20; winter promenades in the Castellana of, 2i; summer evenings in the Salon of, 21, 22; differing effect of climate of, on men and women, 23, 24, 27; vagabonds of, 24; match-venders of, 25; water-venders of, 26; Moors' quarter, 29; Plaza Mayor, 29, 30; Puerta del Sol. 37; picture-gallery of, 145, 150, 152-154; names of streets of, 316.
Magdalen, a possible painting by Tobar, 161.
Maria del Salto, legend of, 213.
Maria Louisa, wife of Charles IV., anecdote of, 262.
Mario, Spanish comedian, 282.
Market-place, Madrid, 29.
Marriage, prudence governing, 39, 40.
Mary of the Conception, Murillo's, 166, 167.
Masses, for the dead, 56.
Matadors, part of, in bull-fights, 104, 107, 108; rewards of, 109, in; improvidence of, in.
Match-venders, prevalence of, in Madrid, 25.
Medical science, ban upon, 53.
Medina Celi, Dukes of, periodical claims to throne by, 65.
Mendicancy.SeeBeggars.
Mendoza, Cardinal, Military College of Santa Cruz, Toledo, built by, 247.
Meninas, Las, by Velazquez, 170-172.
Military College of Santa Cruz, Toledo, 247.
Mining, effect of tradition on, 62.
Miracle-plays, account of one, 278-293; staging of, 280, 282, 284, 290, 292; appearance of Christ in, 286; horrible realism in, 287, 291; introduction of the Wandering Jew into, 289; absence of Apostles from, 293; per-
INDEX
341
formance of, in country towns, 294; character of audience, 294.
Miracles, 53.
Missionaries, Anglo-Saxon, in Spain, 272.
Molina, Rafael, bull-fighter, 115.
Mona Lisa, Leonardo's, at Madrid, 178.
Monarchs, modern, love of, for solitude, 187.
Monarchy, perfect form of, in Spain,
71
Montes, Paco, famous matador, 105, 114, 116.
Moors, expulsion of (1609), 79; streets laid out by, in Toledo, 221; toleration of, 228; banishment of, 229.
Moors' quarter, Madrid, 29.
Morales, paintings by, 164.
Muleteers, profanity of, 195-197.
Murat, commemorations of slaughter by, 118-120.
Murillo, paintings by, in Madrid Museum, 165-168; in Academy of San Fernando, 168, 169; character of, 174, 175; kindness of Velazquez to, 176.
Music, French influence on, in Madrid, 9.
Names, Christian, 44; family, 48.
Olivares, Count-duke of, 80. Ontañon, Gil de, Cathedral of Segovia
built by, 212. Oxford, Lady, Van Dyck's portrait of.
185.
Padilla, John of, fate of, 221. Palma, the Klder, Titian's Descent
from the Cross finished by, 181. Panaderia, Madrid, 30. Pantoja, portrait of Philip II. by,
159-
Parental discipline, among Spaniards, 35, 36.
Paris, logical capital of France, 3; influence of, on Spanish music and drama, 9, 10.
Peñaranda, Duchess of, Salon of, 14.
Pérez, architect of Cathedral of Toledo, 222.
Perla, La, history of Raphael's, 177.
Peter of Champagne, paintingsof, inSeville, 148.
Peter the Great, choice of capital by, 4.
Philip II., court established at Madrid by, 4, 5; brutalities of, 76; protection of art by, 150; portraits of, 159; part of, in Battle of St. Quen-tin, 253; marriage of, to Elizabeth of France, 254; building of Escorial by, 255, 256; relics collected by, 261; manner of death of, 266; powerful personality of, 267.
Philip III., statue of, at Madrid, 30; portraits of, 157, 158, 159.
Philip IV., Festival of Bulls given by, 92; portrait of, 159, 160; decoration of Velazquez by, 172; last true king of the old school, 268.
Philip V., building undertaken by, 6; bull-fights abolished by, 91; building of La Granja by, 189; burial-place of, 200; debts of, 206.
Philip of Burgundy, carvings of, 148.
Phoenix, John, quoted, 22.
Picadors, part of, in bull-fights, 99, 100: anxiety of, 101.
Plaza de Toros, Madrid, 94,et seq.
Plaza del Oriente, Madrid, palace of Philip V. in, 6.
Plaza Mayor, Madrid, present character of, 29; used as Christmas marketplace, 133.
Political science, small progress in, 82, 83-
Prado, appearance of the word in other languages, 20; scene of Verbena of St. John, 127-129.
Priesthood, respect shown to, 46; power of, 69,70, 77, 85; methods of, 296.
Prim, General, wife of, 17; signatures used by, 49.
Profanity, commonness of, 41, 195, 196.
Protestants, Spanish hatred of, 230, 231, growing toleration for, 272,
273-Puerta del Sol, Madrid, 31.
Rabelais, opinion of scholars regarding, 319.
342
INDEX
Raphael, pain tings by, in Madrid, 176, 177.
Rebecca, Murillo's painting of, 165.
Reformation, Spain not penetrated by, 75
Relics, declining virtue of, 54.
Religious forms, regard for, 42, 82;
necessity of, for Latin mind, 125; outgrown by Anglo-Saxons, 126.
Religious orders, reason for sudden rise of, 317.
Religious wars, result of, in Spain, 68, 75
Republican party, in Spain, 87.
Retiro Garden, music in the, 22,
Retz, Cardinal de, 54.
Ribera, the Prometheus of, 156; Ladder-Dream of Jacob by, 174; characteristics of, 174; early life of,
174, 175-
Romans, relics of, in Toledo, 244, 245.
Rome, predestined capital of Italy, 3.
Romero, famous bull-fighter, 114, 116. Rubens, paintings by, at Madrid, 183-185.
Rubrica, importance of, 66, 190.
Saavedra, Isabel de, daughter of Cervantes, 321, 325.
Sacred words, common use of, 45. St. Andrew's, parish church of, Madrid, 29. St. Quentin, part of Philip II. in the Battle of, 253, 254. Salamanca, better fitted for capital than Madrid, 5.
Salome, Titian's, at Madrid, 180.
Salon del Prado, summer evening walks in the, 21,22. Samuel Ben Levi, synagogue built by, in Toledo, 236.
San Cervantes, castle of, Toledo, 250. San Cristo de la Luz, church of, Toledo, 246.
San Cristo de la Vega, church of, Toledo, 244, 245.
San Fernando, Academy of, Murillo's paintings in, 168.
San Gines, Lenten scourges in church of, 140.
San Ildefonso, royal palace of.SeeGranja, La.
San Juan de los Reyes, church of, Toledo, 237-241.
San Lorenzo el Real, monastery of.SeeEscorial.
Santa Maria la Mayor, church of, Alcalá, 312.
Sanzio, Raffaello.SeeRaphael.
Sarto, Andrea del, paintings by, in Madrid, 178.
Segovia, historic interest of, 206; present poverty of, 207; monuments of, 208; aqueduct of, 208-211; Moorish Alcázar of, 211; cathedral of, 212, 213.
Sereno, duties of the, 61.
Servants, Spanish, 50.
Seville, superior fitness for a capital, 5.
Shrines, virtues of, 54.
Smoking.SeeTobacco.
Solitude, love of modern monarchs for, 187.
Spain, growth of, 74; decline of, 77, 79; intellectual life of, in the 17th century, 78; loss of American Colonies by, 81; small progress of political science in, 82, 83; freedom of worship in, 85, 86; spirit of religious inquiry in, 87; Republican party in, 87; development of art in, 145-149.
Spaniards, domesticity of, 33, 34; intense individuality of, 34, 73; family quarrels among, 34, 35; parental discipline, 35; life of middle and lower classes, 36, 37; frugality of, 38; competition for government positions among, 39; outward forms of religion observed by, 42, 82; use of sacred words by, 45; little illness among lower classes of, 52; domination of the Church over, 69, 70; idea of honor among, 71, 72, 81-83; emigration of, 147, 148.See alsoWomen.
Spanish Academy, plays produced by members of, 10, 11.
Spasimo di Sicilia, history of Raphael's, 177.
Speculators in theatre tickets, 279, 280.
Stephen, St., pictures illustrating martyrdom of, by Juanes, 164.
Street-cleaning, objections to, 66.