CHAPTER XVII.THE PARKS AND BOULEVARDS.
Somuch space having been devoted, not without reason, to the attractions of Chicago after the evening shadows have fallen, it is with a feeling of pleasure that one turns to the charms of the city by day. If there is a city in the world calculated to offer the tourists opportunities for pleasure in the daytime it is Chicago. It is natural, perhaps, in considering these opportunities, to refer to the parks and boulevards of Chicago, which, as good judges of such matters have said, constitute a whole host of attractions in themselves.
The park system of Chicago is something upon which the city prides itself perhaps more highly than on anything else. There is no city in the world that contains such a complete systemof breathing-places for the people as is to be found in this one. The parks of Chicago embrace a total area of 2,074 acres, which is exclusive of grounds covered by park boulevards. The park system makes the circuit of the city, being connected by boulevards and embracing a total length of perhaps 40 miles. The system is divided into three divisions, each one of which is under the control of park commissioners, which commissioners are elected by the courts. There are therefore three separate or distinct government bodies: the South park commissioners, the North park commissioners and the West park commissioners, who care for the territories under their control, which are maintained by a tax upon the three divisions of the city above signified. The city government maintains the control over numerous small parks or squares, which are maintained by the city treasury. All of the great parks are easy of access, being easily reached by any of the cable lines at the rate of five cents per passenger. South park, Jackson park and Washington park may be speedily reached by the Illinois Central at the rate of 25 cents for the round trip.
Chicago’s boast that it possesses the finest parks of any city in the world will be found on investigation to be borne out by the facts. Thearea of territory under care and cultivation, the artistic manner in which the grounds are laid out and the general excellence of thetout ensembleso provided cannot be rivaled by any of the cities in the Old World. It is not proposed in this modest work to give a technical description of the various parks of the city, but rather to convey a general idea of the natural and artificial beauties to be found within their limits. On summer nights, when the hot air of the streets drives the crowds from the business district to seek a refuge or breathing-place, the cars that lead to the various parks are thronged to the guards with people whose only universal desire is to get away to some cool spot where they may enjoy a gentler atmosphere, with perhaps a cool breeze thrown in.
Of the many parks of which the city boasts Lincoln park is perhaps the most popular. This, perhaps, is because it is nearest to the business centre and is also one of the largest, situated, as it is, on the very shore of Lake Michigan and stretching from Diversey street on the north to North avenue on the south, being bounded on the west by Clark street.
Lincoln park is reached from the south by the Lake Shore drive, which is already the finest boulevard drive in Chicago, and which, when it extends, as is promised, to the military postat Ft. Sheridan, will be unequaled in all the world. The drive proper commences at North side water works on Pine street and skims along the lake to the northern extremities of the park itself, connecting at the park’s northern most end with the Sheridan drive, which, when complete, will extend a distance of 25 miles along the lake. Along this drive are grouped some of the finest private mansions of which the city can boast. Noticeable among these is the home of Potter Palmer, the proprietor of the Palmer House, whose wife occupies the proud position of president of the Board of Lady Managers of the World’s Fair. The Palmer castle, as it is called, is a giant structure of dark-gray stone and its towers and turrets present an appearance very little less imposing than the ancient castles of the Old World. The Palmer castle is pointed out to the visitors as one of the sights of the city. On the right side of the drive is a strong embankment surmounted by a wall of solid stone, against which the waves beat ceaselessly. On bright days the drive is fairly thronged with brilliant equipages and the sight is a very gay one. A boat racing course, especially designed for regattas, commences just beyond the entrance to the park, being protected from the fury of the sea by an outer pier.
Lincoln park itself is about 250 acres in area. In old days it was a cemetery and the tomb of the Couch family is one of its land-marks. It has been under state supervision since the year 1869, when the first board of commissioners was appointed. All that art can contribute to nature has been directed upon the project of beautifying this lovely place, and the winding avenues, the glassy lakes, the rich foliage, the gorgeous beds of flowers and masses of shrubs combine to produce as attractive a picture as mortal mind could conceive or human eyes delight in. Aside from the natural beauties of the place Lincoln park possesses other attractions in the way of statuary and a zoological collection, which exercise a peculiar charm for visitors. Notable among the former is the Grant monument, facing Lake Michigan on the Lake Shore drive, the cost of which was $100,000, the same being defrayed by popular subscription. There is also the Lincoln statue, by St. Gaudens, which faces the main entrance and was presented, together with a drinking fountain, by the late Eli Bates, statue and fountain costing $50,000. Other monumental works, notably the Indian Group in bronze, presented by the late Martin Ryerson; the La Salle monument, presented by Lambert Tree; the Schiller monument, erected by German residents of Chicago,and the Linne monument, erected by the Swedish residents of Chicago, are to be found at various points of the park. There are also magnificent conservatories, in the flowery mazes of which the visitor may wander at will, feasting his senses on beauties there to be found. A feature of Lincoln park is the new palm house just erected, the dimensions of which are 168 by 70 feet, with a rear extension, and in which every variety of tropical palm will be exhibited. The cost of this structure was $60,000 and it will well repay a visit.
From Lincoln park to Douglas park is a long jump, but for the sake of continuity that jump may be appropriately taken, for the West side parks come next in importance to Lincoln park when one is considering the entire system. The area of Douglas park is 180 acres. It is situated in a northwesterly direction four miles from the Court House, being bounded on the north by 12th street, on the west by Albany avenue and on the south by W. 19th street. The 12th street cars take the passenger to the very gates of the park. Douglas park is located in a neighborhood which some years ago was almost entirely destitute of residences, but within the last few years it has been built up to such an extent that those who saw the neighborhood in the days of its primitivenesswould scarcely recognize it now. The people who live in that neighborhood have great affection for Douglas park, which is artistically laid out and very skillfully cultivated. There is a large lake with a boat-house and refectory. It has also an artesian well whose waters are said to contain fine medicinal properties.
The chief park of the West side, however, is Garfield park, which is reached by the W. Madison street cable cars, being situated four miles directly west of the court house. It is bounded by Lake street on the north, Madison street on the south, extending a mile and a half west from Washington boulevard. In order to drive to Garfield park one may traverse Washington boulevard, which, lined as it is with fine residences, is one of the prettiest and most attractive to be found in the whole city. It is an exceedingly well paved boulevard and on certain occasions, when the police are not too vigilant, some smart brushes between the rival owners of fast horses are occasionally to be seen on its broad stretch of smooth road-way. This park was not always known as Garfield; its first name was Central park, but this was changed in honor to the memory of the martyred president. The park itself is picturesque beyond measure, its drives and promenades being laid out in such a manner as to cater tothe most exacting of tastes. Among its features may be mentioned a handsome fountain, the gift of Mrs. Mancel Talcott, and an artesian well 200 feet deep, which discharges mineral water at the rate of 150 gallons per hour. Beautiful as Garfield park is at the present writing it bids fair within the next few years to be advanced to an even more perfect state. The people of the West side are determined that it shall be one of the handsomest parks in the city, and are sparing no efforts to make it so. The West side cable cars reach a terminus at this point, but connecting with them is an electric line which carries passengers out to the town of Cicero, through the suburbs of Austin and Oak Parks, at the uniform fare of 5 cents.
Humboldt park is another West side breathing-place in which the residents of the locality in which it is situated take especial pride. Its area is 200 acres and it lies four miles north-west from the court house, being bounded on the south by Augusta street, on the east by N. California avenue, on the west by N. Kedzie avenue, and on the north by W. North avenue. Humboldt park is beautifully laid out and its trees, shrubs and flowers are of superb beauty. It has a fine conservatory and an artesian well 1,155 feet deep.
The South side park system is the most complete of any in the city, and it monopolizes the favor of visitors who desire to make a speedy circuit of the three handsomest parks in the town within the short space of half a day. The system of boulevards leading to these parks cannot be equaled in the whole world. Michigan avenue boulevard, which commences at Jackson street and the Lake Front, is the open sesame to a drive as delicious as the most exacting soul can desire. This street is one hundred feet wide from curb to curb and skirts the Lake Front park at its commencement. Speeding up Michigan avenue, in whatever sort of conveyance the taste of the tourist may select, a fine view is obtained of some of the finest residences to be found in the whole city, many of whose millionaires have built palatial homes at distances greater or less from the business district. Michigan avenue proper extends south to 35th street. At 35th street commence two boulevards, Drexel boulevard and Grand boulevard. Drexel boulevard commences at Oakwood and the junction of Cottage Grove avenue and 39th street, and has a double drive-way 200 feet wide, having in its centre a wide strip of turf dotted with shrubs and flowering plants, and at its western side a soft track for equestrians. It was named after the Messrs. Drexel,the famous bankers of Philadelphia, who, in appreciation of the compliment thus bestowed, have erected a fine bronze fountain at the intersection of Drexel avenue. Grand boulevard is a very similar stretch of road-way in all respects. It runs south from 35th street, where South Park avenue joins that thoroughfare, and forms the northwestern entrance to Washington park. It also presents a beautiful road-way for driving and has a side strip for equestrians, with flower beds, shrubs and green turf on either side. Both of these boulevards are dotted by magnificent private residences, the chosen homes of the wealthiest class in the city. They form dual entrances to the circuit of boulevards leading to the famous Washington park race-track, of which mention will be found in another chapter.
Washington park, then, is entered from the beautiful drive-way on Drexel boulevard, is most delightfully situated a little over a mile from Lake Michigan and nearly seven miles southeast from the court house, being bounded on the west and north by Cottage Grove avenue and 51st street, on the south by 60th street. In the opinion of many people it is the finest of all of Chicago’s parks, being 371 acres in area, its floral beauties and its charms of hillocks, shrubbery, woods and water being almost beyonddescription. There is a great play-ground 100 acres in extent, upon which any one is free to indulge in any sort of athletic game that fancy may dictate, also a large lake upon which boating may be indulged. There is also a splendid conservatory, in which many rare flowers of all lands may be viewed at any time. The floral display is in charge of a great army of skilled gardeners, who change the designs from season to season and always manage to turn out something new.
Jackson park proper, the extreme southern part of which has been selected as the site for the World’s Fair, lies about eight miles southeast of the court house, being bounded as follows: on the west by Stony Island avenue, on the north by 56th street, on the south by 67th street and on the west by the blue waters of Lake Michigan. The works incident to the preparation for the World’s Fair include the excavating and dredging of the little lakes connected with Lake Michigan. The preparations for the Fair have not materially interfered with the northern portion of the park, the major portion of which is devoted to a huge play-ground which is utilized all through the summer by the devotees of tennis, base-ball and cricket, or by the militia as a parade ground. Surrounding this open expanse of turf are beautiful wooded avenues,while on the east side is a sea wall and promenade from which a superb view may be had of the lake. Midway north and south in the park, on the very edge of the water, is a large stone pavilion, in which thousands of people may find shelter in rainy weather, and which is sometimes used for dances and other festivities during the summer months.
Visitors who desire to make a circuit of the South park system cannot do better than patronize the phaetons which start every few minutes from the northern terminus of Drexel boulevard and make the circuit in about one hour, the charge for which is 25 cents.
It should be remembered that in case the visitor desires to make the circuit of all the parks in a day the chain of boulevards extends completely around the city. It is impossible to lose one’s way and the merest hint at a desire for information at any point of the journey will meet with the readiest response. In addition to the parks herein described there are a number of smaller pretensions, mere breathing-places, scattered about the city, that, while not affording much opportunity for study, will, nevertheless, be found to greatly enhance the attractions of the journey. The scene in any of the great parks, particularly at night, when they are filled with pleasure-seekers, will befound to be well worth investigation. At that time there are all sorts and conditions of people to be found, all bent upon the enjoyment of the hour and determined to console themselves so far as they may for the trials and vexations of the day. The moon is shedding an indulgent light down upon the merry-makers as they stroll to and fro in laughing groups beneath the whispering trees. There is light, mirth, laughter everywhere, and the merriment of the idling wanderers is echoed from time to time by the rippling of the water as it laps upon the sandy shore. It is indeed a pleasant picture. Far away in the distance, separated by only a few miles of dusty roads, is the great city, teeming with life, turmoil and wickedness. Here all is peace. The air is soft and balmy, the spirits of the merry-makers are at their highest without being vexed either by the recollection of the tumult of the day or care for the morrow. The benison of night, assisted by the art of mankind, is perhaps responsible for the beauty of the scene and the spirit of happiness and content that prevails. Visit any of the parks on a hot summer night for an hour or two, when all the world is devoted to calm relaxation, and see if you do not subscribe to the sentiment.