CHAPTER XXION THE WATER.
Thepart Lake Michigan will play in the transportation of people to and from the World’s Fair Grounds has not at this writing (May, 1892) been definitely determined upon. It is beyond question, however, that some proper arrangement in this direction will have been made long before the Fair opens, for it would seem highly impossible that the great facilities for water transportation should not be properly utilized.
For some reason or other aquatic sports and pleasures have not flourished in Chicago as they should, considering the immense advantages in that direction that are lying, as it were, at our very doors. Some people attribute the small interest of the average Chicagoan in aquatics to the unstable character of the great sheet of water known as Lake Michigan—an unstability which is shown sometimes in thequick gathering of storms. The lake may be shining like a sheet of glass one hour, and in the next heaving tumultuously under the influence of a squall. This sort of thing puts a check on the ambition for boating to some extent, but is hardly a sufficient reason why the sport of yachting—one of the grandest of all sports—should not flourish. The yachtsmen of New York, Chicago amateur marriners are fond of arguing, have infinitely greater risks to run in New York bay than we have in our harbor and lake, but yacht clubs flourish there, and in fact in all the cities on the Atlantic coast, while in Chicago the enjoyment of this royal sport is confined to a few enthusiasts who vainly endeavor to enlist the sympathies of the multitude in the pastime they find so delightful.
There are few sailing yachts in commission nowadays, but there are several yacht clubs, and the time may come when the sport will be properly revived and encouraged. The Chicago Yacht Club, whose office is at 655 Rookery building, has many members. Its officers are A. T. Fisher, commodore; Harry Duvall, secretary; J. W. S. Brawley, treasurer. The President of the Countess Yacht Club is Mr. Sidney W. Woodbury, and the treasurer, E. W. Herrick. The Countess Yacht Club derivesits title from the somewhat celebrated craft of that name. TheCountessis a magnificent sloop, and the club is composed of the gentlemen who own her and take their enjoyment on board of her. TheCountesswas built in Canada and named originally theCountess of Dufferin, in honor of the wife of the then Governor-General of the Dominion, the Earl of Dufferin. She was built to contest for the American cup but did not succeed. The name was changed to theCountesswhen she was brought to Chicago. TheCountessmay be seen any bright summer day gallantly riding the waters of the bay opposite Lake Front Park. It is an enthusing sight to see her starting bravely out into the lake with all her canvas set, heeling gracefully on in deference to the breeze. Dozens of smaller but none the less ambitious craft swarm about her and endeavor to keep the pace, their snow-white sails showing prettily against the blue sky. But theCountessis too speedy for them and out-fools them all.
Perhaps the most active yachting organization in Chicago is the Lincoln Park Yacht Club, organized two years ago. Its list of officers is as follows: Commodore, James J. Wilson; vice commodore, S. S. Johnson; rear-commodore, A. E. Back; treasurer, H. A. Paus; secretary, C. O. Andrews. This club possesses anadvantage inasmuch as the vessels of its members find a safe haven and anchorage in the new slip, protected by a break-water, at Lincoln Park, which has been constructed especially for regattas. From ten to fifteen yachts find shelter here, and some splendid yacht races may be witnessed during the summer over what is termed the Lincoln Park course, extending some five miles out into the lake. The race is always made outward and return, and the spectacle is beautiful to witness when half a dozen of the fleet craft are speeding over the waves in the contest for supremacy. The yacht races during the summer naturally heighten the attraction of this most popular of all the parks.
There are many boat clubs. The Catlin Boat Club has a clubhouse at the foot of Pearson street, on the North side. The Ogden Boat Club’s house is at the foot of Superior street, half a mile further south. The Farragut Boat Club is the most pretentious of all, however, possessing as it does, in addition to its boat-house at the foot of Thirty-third street, a handsome clubhouse on Lake avenue, just below Thirty-first street, which is the scene of many noteworthy social events. The clubhouse contains, in addition to its comfortable parlors and reception rooms, a bowling alley, pool-room and lavatories, while the upper story isdevoted to a dancing hall and theatre with a seating capacity of 400.
So much for the private aquatic organizations. While a visitor with influential friends finds no difficulty in securing an introduction to any of them, and a consequent temporary share in their privileges, they are, of course, more or less exclusive, and the reader’s interest will naturally go to such provisions as are made for the enjoyment and entertainment of the stranger and the unknown.
Down on the Lake Front, just across the Illinois Central tracks, will be found from ten to fifteen pretty yachts, owned by their captains, who will take a party out for an hour’s sail at the rate of 25 cents per hour. In case there are only two of you the charge will be a dollar, the owners never moving out for less than that sum. These crafts are sound and seaworthy and in the charge of old sailors whose skill and nerve are to be trusted and relied upon in any sort of weather. It is a most delightful manner of spending an hour. When the heat in the city is stifling and not a breath of air is stirring, try the experiment of a spin over the blue waters and see how refreshing is the breeze that is invariably blowing briskly over on the Michigan shore. There is not even time to get sea-sick, no matter how violent the motion of thestaunch little vessel, yet if any of the passengers should feel squeamish the captain is only too ready to put about and return home.
If the pleasure-seeker prefers steam to canvas as a motive power he can take his choice between a trip to the government pier or water-works crib, and a longer sail to Jackson or Lincoln Park. The fare to the pier and back is ten cents; the round trip to and from the crib or either of the parks is 25 cents. There are several more pretentious vessels that go out at night for moonlight excursions on the lake. They start both from the Lake Front and from the river, in the latter case generally at the Clark street bridge. They always secure a large patronage and there is generally a good time enjoyed by those who make up such excursions. The decks are crowded with pretty girls and their escorts, it somehow generally happening that the girls outnumber the boys, and, as a dance is always begun the minute the vessel is well out in the lake, the pair of strangers who have resolved to try this manner of spending the evening are apt to find their company very much in request. The advent of another year will probably see a large increase in the number of excursion steamers, and during the Fair the lake will doubtless bedrawn upon to its fullest extent as a source of pleasure for the visiting throng.
All the foregoing applies to short trips. There are steamship lines whose vessels make very extended journeys.
It not infrequently happens that visitors take advantage of the excellent opportunities afforded and make one or two voyages that they remember with pleasure long after their return to their homes in the country. The Graham Morton Transportation Company’s steamers leave from the dock at the foot of Wabash avenue for St. Joseph and Benton harbor daily, at 9:30 in the morning and 11 o’clock at night, arriving at St. Joseph at 1:30P.M.and 3 in the morning. OnSunday one trip is made, leaving at 10A.M.and arriving at 2 o’clock. The fare for a single trip is $1 but the round trip can be made for that price if the passengers return the same day. The fine side-wheel steamerCity of Chicago, one of the handsomest on the lakes, is the star of this line. The Sunday excursion on this ship costs $1.50. The voyage is directly across the lake, about 40 miles, and is made on schedule time in good weather; adverse winds and waves are apt to cause a little delay.
The Goodrich line, however, is the leading line of lake steamers as well as the oldest. The company’s dock is at the foot of Michigan avenue. The steamers ply between Chicago and all ports on Lake Michigan, such as Racine, Milwaukee, Sturgeon Bay, Menominee, Grand Haven, Muskegon, Green Bay and Manistique. The trip to Muskegon, which takes one night, is especially enjoyable and many people indulge in it for the purpose of seeing the greatest lumber town in the world, which distinction Muskegon enjoys; the night trip to Milwaukee is also a favorite, especially in hot weather. Milwaukee, as is ever known, is a sort of Gretna Green for youthful and impressionable Chicago couples, who are in the habit of eloping to that happy haven, getting safely married and then returning on the next boatto seek the parental forgiveness which is almost invariably bestowed if they wait long enough. The Saturday night boat rarely starts in the summer months without at least one such eloping couple on board.
Some of the Goodrich line vessels will bear comparison with the finest ocean steamers. The dimensions of the Virginia, for instance, are as follows: 278 feet over all, 260 feet keel, 38 feet beam and 25 feet deep. The hull is divided into six water-tight compartments, so constructed that if the vessel were cut squarely in two halves it would float. The interior decorations and equipments are of the most magnificent description. No one should fail to at least inspect this, by all odds the finest vessel that floats the lakes. Other fine vessels of this line are theIndiana,City of RacineandMenominee.
The steamers of the Lake Michigan & Lake Superior Transportation Company, which are all elegantly appointed, carry passengers between Chicago and Duluth, at the head of Lake Superior. These staunch steamers leave Chicago Wednesday and Saturday evenings, leaving the dock at Rush street bridge at 8:30, and call at Mackinac, Sault Ste. Marie, Marquette, and all Lake Superior ports. The passenger traffic on this line during the summer is enormous and increasesconstantly with the fame of the northern summer resorts, which are yearly growing more popular.
The pleasure-seeker is hardly likely to be interested in the commercial side of the Chicago lake marine. The story of its magnitude, however, may be told in one brief paragraph:
The daily arrivals and clearances at Chicago exceed those of New York by fifty per cent, being nearly as numerous as those of Baltimore, Boston and New York combined. Figures talk, and these are the figures that Chicago modestly presents to the observation of the wondering stranger.