Chapter 2

Meat

"Room! Make way! Hunger commands. My valour must obey."—Beaumont and Fletcher.

TO JUDGE GOOD BEEF.—Good beef, if young, will be of a bright red color, fine grained and firm to the touch. The fat of a clear straw color with a little of it through the muscles, giving the meat a marbled appearance. The suet should be dry and crumbly and of a darker shade than the fat. In old beef both flesh and fat will be darker, much coarser in fiber and decidedly dry compared with young beef. If the beef is of a pale, dull color, and flabby, it is not well matured; if very dark and colored and coarse grained with deep yellow fat it will be found tough and tasteless and if it bears greenish tints and feels slippery on the surface it is already stale and unfit for use. When meat is tough add a little vinegar or a piece of lemon to the water in which it is boiled. This will result in a shortening of time and a saving of fuel, while the meat will be rendered more easy of digestion; also any slight taint that may be about the meat will be entirely removed by this process. A pinch of baking soda can be used instead of lemon or vinegar.

POT ROAST.—Take a nice piece of the round beef weighing about four pounds, season well with salt and pepper and dust over thoroughly with flour. In a flat bottomed kettle melt a piece of butter the size of an egg, when hot put in the meat, turning until well browned on every side. When roast is brown add a little onion, six cloves, six allspice and enough boiling water to come up half way to the top of the meat. Cook slowly for three hours. When done take out meat, add one tablespoon of flour to a little cold water to thicken gravy.

MEAT BALLS.—Two pounds round steak, put through sausage grinder three times, season with salt and pepper, nutmeg and a little cream. Beat two eggs and mix all together; shape into balls and roll in cracker crumbs and fry in butter to a light brown.

BAKED VEAL CUTLETS.—One and one half pounds of veal cutlets laid in well buttered roasting pan with one cup of water; over this spread dressing made of two cups bread crumbs; two onions chopped fine, two well beaten eggs; butter size of an egg, salt and pepper. Mix well, add water to moisten. Lay tin cover on top of pan to prevent scorching. Bake from half to three quarters of an hour. Remove cover to brown.

ROAST SPARE RIBS.—Trim off ends neatly, crack ribs across the middle, rub with salt, sprinkle with pepper, fold over, stuff with turkey dressing, sew up tightly, place in dripping pan with one pint water, baste often. Turn over once so as to bake both sides equally.

ROAST VEAL LOAF.—Four pounds of veal, one pound of pork, one or two eggs, one cup of crackers rolled fine, one tablespoon of salt, one teaspoon of pepper, one teaspoon of sage, mix and make into roll. Bake three hours.

STEAMED VEAL LOAF.—To two pounds of veal, put through a grinder or chopped very fine, add two teaspoons of salt, one fourth teaspoon pepper, butter size of an egg, one cup freshly grated bread crumbs, two eggs, two tablespoons milk. Knead until well mixed. Butter baking powder cans, coat with bread crumbs and fill compactly with the meat and put on cover. Stand in a kettle of water almost to the top of mold. Boil steadily one and one half hours. When cool take out at once.

STUFFED BEEF STEAK.—Prepare a dressing as for chicken, of one cup of bread crumbs moisten with one tablespoonful of melted butter, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Trim off the fat from a sirloin steak, spread on the dressing; roll up; tie to keep in shape, and bake one hour. Baste often with stock and drippings. When done remove the string that it may not unroll and serve with brown sauce. Mushrooms may be added to the dressing if desired. (Roll may be steamed instead of roasted if desired.)

SAUCE.—Melt and brown one large tablespoonful butter, add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir until it is smooth and brown, then add one pint of the liquid strained from the pan. Stir until it thickens, take from the fire and add one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce; season with salt and pepper.

DIRECTIONS FOR BOILING HAM.—Put the ham in cold water over night and boil in the same water in the morning. When done skin it and roll it in crackers mixed with pepper, and put into oven to brown.

VEAL LOAF.—Two pounds of veal chopped, one half pound salt pork, chopped or put through meat grinder twice. Add one egg, twelve crackers, rolled fine, salt and pepper to taste. Bake one and one half hours. (The above meat recipes were demonstrated in American Cookery series by Mrs. A. McKay.)

VEAL STEW, WITH LEMON AND EGG SAUCE.—Four pounds veal, salt and pepper, stew the veal until tender, drain off the broth, leaving barely enough to cover the meat. Beat six eggs and add slowly to them, beating all the time, the juice of three lemons. Pour this over the veal and heat but do not boil.—Mrs. Aaron J. Bessie.

NORWEGIAN MEAT PUDDING.—Take five pounds of round steak, quarter pound beef suet, grind ten or twelve times, add salt, nutmeg, one cup sweet cream, one pint milk, mix well. Bake in pudding tin with funnel in center. Set tin in pan of boiling water. Bake one hour.

PUDDING SAUCE.—Drain liquid from pudding when done. To this add sweet cream, thicken with flour and milk. Season with salt, nutmeg and capers. This will serve ten or twelve people.—Mrs. R. Meidell.

German Cookery

BOILED MEAT BALLS.—One pound of round steak, one egg, one slice of bread, two tablespoons melted butter, one teaspoon salt, a dash of pepper. Trim off all the fat, skin and bones, wash them and put on stove in cold water with one onion, piece of celery, a little parsley and salt to taste. Let boil one hour. Chop or grind the meat, soak the bread in water and press, then mix with all ingredients and form into balls the size of an egg, and boil in the above broth ten minutes. For the gravy brown one tablespoon butter, one of flour, add the broth and stir smooth. Put meat balls into a deep dish and pour gravy over them.—Mrs. J. Bruegger.

MARYLAND BAKED HAM.—Soak a ham over night in cold water and boil it tender in sweet cider or water, putting it on in enough liquid to cover. It must be tender but not broken. Remove the rind, outline the fat on top into diamonds, placing a clove in each. Rub half a cup of maple syrup into ham, sprinkle with pepper, place in oven and brown, sprinkling with sifted bread crumbs if liked. Serve hot or if sliced cold, lay plate and heavy weight on ham over night to make nice firm slices.—Mrs. Whitehead. Southern Cookery demonstration.

LULA'S CORNED BEEF.—Five pounds rump beef or sirloin, five tablespoons salt, three tablespoons brown sugar. Saltpetre size of a hickory nut. Dissolve the ingredients in enough water to cover the beef, and let the meat stand in the brine twenty four hours. Boil meat in the same brine three and a half hours. Quick, simple and good as it gives the purchaser a chance to select the cut of meat she prefers for corning.—Contributed.

SPICED BEEF LOAF.—Two and one half pounds of round steak put through a food chopper, with one fourth pound of salt pork; one teaspoonful of dried and rolled bread crumbs; two scant cupfuls of milk, one beaten egg, one teaspoon of butter; one teaspoonful of salt; one half teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves, mace and allspice, a dash of cayenne pepper. Mix into one large loaf and lay in a buttered roasting pan. (I use two individual bread tins using one loaf hot for dinner and reserving the other to slice cold.) Add a cupful of hot water to each baking pan; sprinkle sifted bread crumbs over the meat and dot with butter. Bake covered until brown and tender basting often but do not cook until hard and dry. Serve with the gravy or hot tomato sauce, horseradish or mayonaise.—Mrs. Whitehead.

FAAR I KAAL. NORWEGIAN.—Get twenty cents worth of leg of mutton, cut in small pieces. Put in the kettle one layer of mutton, one medium sized head of cabbage cut into six pieces, four potatoes, cut in halves, two medium sized carrots, quartered. Between each layer of meat and vegetables add salt, whole peppers and a little flour. Set the kettle on the stove and add about one quart of water. Let boil slowly for at least three hours. When done remove from fire and serve. This will serve three people.—Mrs. R. Meidell.

ROUND STEAK STEW.—Take one and one half quarter pounds of round steak and pound it well, roll in flour and fry (same as any other steak) over this pour one pint of boiling water, season with salt, pepper and a little onion. Let stew one hour or until tender.—Mrs. R. Meidell.

STEAMED VEAL LOAF.—Take two pounds raw veal, grind, two teaspoons salt, one fourth teaspoon pepper, butter size of an egg, one cup freshly grated bread crumbs, two eggs, two tablespoons milk, knead until well mixed. Butter baking powder cans, coat with bread crumbs, fill compactly with the meat, put on cover, stand in kettle of water almost to the top of the mold. Boil steadily one and one half hours. When cool remove from molds at once. Can be eaten hot.—Mrs. Paul Leonhardy.

JELLIED VEAL OR CHICKEN.—Three pounds of stewing veal shank or chicken, one tablespoon of chopped onion, one tablespoon chopped celery; one level teaspoon of salt, dash of pepper. Cover with water and boil steadily until the meat is very tender and liquor reduced. Remove the meat from the liquor, free it from gristle and bones and chop fine. Strain the liquor, stir it through the meat and pack in a square mold, laying a heavy weight on top. Serve it cold, cut in thin slices and garnished with sliced hard boiled eggs, sliced lemon or pickled beets.—Mrs. Whitehead.

SCRAMBLED CALF'S BRAINS.—Soak two pounds of calf's brains in strong salt water one hour. Then carefully remove all membrane and blood clots. Dip the brains in flour and fry brown in hot drippings, bacon preferred. Hash the brains with a knife and scramble four fresh eggs with them, season with salt and pepper, tossing well together with a knife until nicely browned. Serve with toast or hot buttered rolls or baking powder biscuit.—Contributed.

CROWN OF LAMB WITH CURRIED RICE BALLS.—Have the marketman prepare the rack of lamb for a "crown" roast by scraping the flesh from the ribs half way down, joining the rack together and fastening it firmly. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, wrap the ribs in oiled paper and roast in a brisk oven. Baste often and allow fifteen minutes to each pound. Garnish with rice balls made as follows: Steam one cupful of rice until tender. Make two cupfuls of sauce by melting two tablespoonfuls of butter, adding one teaspoonful currie powder, one saltspoonful of onion juice, and two tablespoonfuls flour, and stock, or water and milk, and one half teaspoonful of salt. Cook until smooth, then add sufficient sauce to the rice to form into balls; reheat them in a steamer, dip them in the sauce which has been kept warm and fill the crown.

MINT JELLY.—Is a toothsome accompaniment to roast lamb, and is a novel variation to the customary mint sauce. Soak one cupful of chopped mint in one pint of water for one hour. Strain, heat to the boiling point and pour over one half box of gelatin which has been softened in half a teacup of cold water. Add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, four tablespoonfuls lemon juice and a saltspoonful of salt. Pour into molds and set in a cold place to harden. Turn out on chilled saucers just before serving.—Contributed.

TONGUE IN PORT WINE.—Boil a beef's tongue until it is tender enough to stick a fork through; put it in cold water and remove the skin; set it away until cold; save the water in which it was boiled and put it on the stove with four small onions and two small carrots, boil until the vegetables are tender, then remove the carrots and mash the onions into pieces; brown two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, add it to the liquor, with a level teaspoonful each of allspice, cloves and mace, and pepper and salt to taste. Blend two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, thicken the liquor with this and add three quarters of a cup of port wine. Split the tongue lengthwise, put it in the liquor and heat thoroughly, and serve with the sauce.—Mrs. Whitehead.

SYRIAN STEW.—To be eaten with boiled rice. Neck of mutton will do nicely for this. Separate the fat from the lean meat. Mince the fat and melt it in frying pan. Cut the lean meat into chunks about a cubic inch, more or less, in size, and fry in a hot fat. Have at hand an earthen cooking vessel; remove the meat from frying pan when done and drop into the earthen vessel. Have ready the vegetables, also cut into chunks (not slices), and brown in the fat, removing them as they brown and putting them with the meat. Next, slice two large or four small Spanish onions (slicing not into rings, but first into halves, lengthwise; next slicing each half lengthwise), and fry until well done (sprinkling them with salt hastens the process). Add these to the meat and vegetables, then add a cupful of canned or fresh tomato and a small quantity of water, seasoned with salt and that brown pepper which is more spicy than hot; let it come to a boil and simmer gently. It should be begun two hours before mealtime. Any vegetable will do. Vegetable marrow is excellent, but this should be allowed to steam for awhile with the meat and onions before the tomatoes are added and cooked without water. For potatoes, add a few cloves or a small piece of cinnamon bark to flavor. Celery stew is excellent and cabbage also is good; but for either of these omit the tomatoes and add some lemon juice shortly before removing from fire. Such vegetables as celery, cabbage and haricot beans should not be browned in the fat, but stirred about for awhile in the cooking vessel with the meat and onions, and thus fried slightly before adding the water. There is an infinite variety of these stews, all on the same principle.

BOILED RICE.—To accompany Syrian stew.—A double boiler is not necessary. Wash the rice until the water is clear, removing any foreign grains or dirt. Have ready in a saucepan double the quantity of boiling water that you have of rice, in which has been melted a lump of butter. When the water boils hard drop in the rice, add a rounded teaspoonful of salt to every cup of rice and boil gently, uncovered. Do not stir. For very hard rice allow two and one half cups of water to a cup of rice. You will soon learn just the quantity required. By the time the water dries out the rice should be done and each grain firm and separate. Allow a generous teaspoonful of butter to each cup of rice. One cup is sufficient for two persons. When the water gets low, taste the rice, and if you find it is still hard add a little more boiling water, or cover and remove to the back of the stove to finish slowly.—Contributed.

HOME MADE SAUSAGE.—Grind six pounds of raw lean fresh pork and three pounds of raw fat pork to a pulp. Put it in a large graniteware pan and add twelve teaspoons of powdered sage, six teaspoons of ground black pepper, six teaspoons of dry salt and one teaspoon each of ground cloves, allspice and nutmeg. Mix the seasoning well into the meat and pack it into stone jars, as closely as possible. Pour melted lard or paraffine wax over the top, which will be all the protection it will require. All winter as wanted make it into small cakes and fry brown.—Contributed.

HEAD CHEESE.—This is made of the head, ears and tongue of a pig. Boil them after cleaning them, in salted water until tender. Strip the meat from the bones and chop (not grind) very fine. Season with salt, pepper, sage and powdered cloves, to taste; then add one cup of good vinegar. Mix all together thoroughly and pack hard into molds or bowls, interspersing bits of the tongue cut into oblongs and triangles an inch in length. Wet a plate and press down on the top of each mold and place a weight on top of that. In two days it will be ready to eat. If you desire to keep it several weeks you can turn it out of the molds and immerse in cold vinegar in stone jars. This will preserve it admirably and you have only to pare away the outside if too acid for your taste.—Contributed.

PHILADELPHIA SCRAPPLE.—Take a cleaned pig's head and boil until the flesh slips easily from the bones. Remove all the bones and chop fine. Set the liquor in which the meat was boiled aside until cold, take the cake of fat from the surface and return the liquor to the fire. When it boils, put in the chopped meat and season well with pepper and salt. Let it boil again and thicken with corn meal as you would in making ordinary corn meal mush, by letting it slip slowly through the fingers to prevent lumps. Cook an hour, stirring constantly at first, afterwards putting back on the range in a position to boil gently. When done, pour into a long, square pan, not too deep, and mould. In cold weather this can be kept several weeks. Slice and saute in butter or dripping.—Contributed.

MUTTON ROAST.—Just cover the breast of mutton with water, adding a little salt. Set over the fire, and when it comes to a boil place over a more moderate heat and simmer for three hours. Then take it up on a platter, draw out the bones, make a stuffing of bread crumbs, parsley, thyme, salt, pepper and a little melted suet or butter; lay this on the meat, roll it up and fasten with skewers. Cover thickly with egg and bread crumbs and bake in a good oven fifteen minutes to each pound of meat. When it begins to brown baste frequently with the pan drippings. Serve on a bed of cress.—Contributed.

FRIED HAM WITH CREAM SAUCE.—Trim off the edges; put into a hot pan with one teaspoonful of drippings, put over hot fire and keep turning the ham. Never put into pan and fry on one side before turning. You must keep turning constantly. When nice and brown on both sides remove to a hot platter. Put one tablespoonful of flour into pan, mix well and add one cup of cold milk slowly, stir and boil three minutes. Pour over ham.—Contributed.

HAM JELLY.—Mix two cupfuls of boiled ham, chopped and pounded very fine, with one teaspoonful of French mustard, a good dash of cayenne, one teaspoonful of granulated gelatin dissolved in one half cupful of hot water (with a teaspoonful of beef extract if at hand), and finally with one half cupful of cream which has been whipped. When thoroughly blended press into a wet square mold and place on ice for two or three hours. It will keep for a day or two. When ready to serve cut in thin slices and put on each a teaspoonful of mayonnaise dressing in which a little freshly grated horseradish and whipped cream have been stirred. Two tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise, four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream and one tablespoonful of horseradish will be the right proportions.—Contributed.

GOULASH.—Use two pounds of lean beef cut into neat pieces; chop an onion, half a carrot and one eighth of a green pepper; place all in a kettle with two cups of stock, or water will do, cover and stew gently for two hours; add five small sour pickles in the kettle with the meat, a teaspoonful of salt; continue to stew for half an hour longer. Remove the meat on a hot platter, place the pickles around the meat, thicken the gravy with a little flour and water and pour the gravy around the meat.

JELLIED VEAL.—One or two knuckles of veal boiled until very tender in water to cover. Strain the juice and cut the meat into small pieces or chop fine, season with salt, pepper and a little powdered sage; put back into strained broth and boil until nearly dry. Add juice of one lemon and turn into a mold, press well and let it stand until cold and firm. Slice in thin slices. For pressed beef use minced parsley instead of sage and omit the lemon juice. For pressed chicken omit the parsley and sage, add the lemon juice to the chicken broth and mould with a layer of sliced hard boiled eggs placed in the center of the loaf.—Contributed.

PORK PATTIES.—One cup chopped pork, two cups bread crumbs, two beaten eggs and one half cup milk, season with butter, salt and pepper, (and sage if liked). Fill buttered gem tins and bake until nicely brown.—Mrs. A. McKay.

CREAMED DRIED BEEF.—Pick half a pound of chipped dried beef into small pieces and bring it to a boil in water to cover. Drain, add one tablespoon of butter and dredge with one large tablespoon of flour, add two cupfuls of milk or cream and cook thick. Season with pepper. Nice for breakfast or lunch. Make creamed codfish the same way.—Contributed.

HAMBURG HASH.—One pound hamburg steak, two tablespoonfuls butter, eight or ten potatoes, one small onion, one small bunch parsley, one teaspoonful celery salt, half teaspoonful common salt, paprika for seasoning, half cupful hot water. Having all these things chopped and ready, melt the butter in a frying pan and toss the onion about in the pan until it becomes colored. Add the chopped beef and stir it until it has become nicely browned. Add the hot water, stirring thoroughly; then add the potatoes, parsley, paprika and salt. Stir about until well cooked. Turn out on a hot dish and serve promptly, garnished with parsley.

CORN BEEF HASH.—Make like above hamburg hash but use cold, chopped cooked corn beef and omit the onion and celery salt.

Sauces for Meat, Fish, Fowl and Game

"It is not what we intend, but what we do that makes us useful."—H. W. Beecher.

TOMATO SAUCE.—Take a quart can of tomatoes, put it over the fire in a stew pan, put in one slice of onion, add two cloves, a little pepper and salt, boil about twenty minutes; then remove from the fire and strain it through a sieve. Now melt in another pan an ounce of butter, and as it melts sprinkle in a tablespoonful of flour, stir it until it browns and froths a little. Mix the tomato pulp with it, and it is ready for the table. Excellent for mutton chops and roast beef.

TOMATO SAUCE.—Melt one tablespoon of butter, rub in one tablespoon of flour, half teaspoon salt, a little pepper, add one pint hot milk, cook until well done, stirring all the time to keep it smooth. Pass a few stewed tomatoes through the sieve to remove seeds, enough to give thirteen teaspoons for the sauce. Stir in just before serving. Serve with fish by pouring a few spoonfuls over each piece.

CREAM SAUCE.—Put two tablespoons butter in a pan, add two tablespoons flour, mix well together, pour on gradually one cup scalded milk, stirring all the time, one quarter teaspoon salt and a little white pepper. Cook thick.

CREAM SAUCE.—One tablespoon flour, half pint of cream or milk, one tablespoonful of butter, half teaspoonful of salt, dash of pepper. Melt the butter being careful not to brown it, add the flour, mix until smooth then add the cream or milk, stir continually until it boils; add salt and pepper, and use at once. If you are not quite ready to use it stand over boiling water to keep warm, stirring often to prevent a crust forming on top.

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE.—For baked or boiled fish. One half cup butter, yolks of two eggs, juice of half a lemon, one saltspoonful salt, quarter saltspoonful cayenne pepper, one and one half cups boiling water. Rub the butter to a cream in a bowl with wooden or silver spoon, add the yolks, one at a time and beat well, then add lemon juice, salt and pepper. About five minutes before serving add boiling water, place bowl in saucepan of boiling water and stir rapidly until it thickens like boiled custard. Pour the sauce around the fish.

HORSE RADISH SAUCE.—Grate sufficient horseradish to make four good sized tablespoonfuls, add this to half pint of salad dressing and serve with cold beef.

SALMON SAUCE.—One cup of milk, heated to boiling point and thickened with a tablespoonful of corn starch, the oil from salmons, one large tablespoonful of butter, one egg well beaten, juice of one lemon, cayenne pepper to taste. Add the egg to the thickened milk when you have stirred in the butter and oil. Take from fire, season and let stand in hot water three minutes covered, then put in lemon juice and turn over salmon immediately. Note: Above recipes for sauces were demonstrated by Mrs. A. McKay at Domestic Science club.

HORSERADISH SAUCE.—Add to six tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish the yolk of one egg and half a teaspoonful of salt. Mix thoroughly; add a tablespoonful of good vinegar and then carefully a quarter of a cupful of cream whipped to a stiff froth. If the horseradish is already in vinegar omit the tablespoonful of vinegar and press dry the horseradish. This is one of the nicest sauces to serve with cold mutton or with hot corned beef.

HORSERADISH CREAM SAUCE.—Beat one tablespoonful of cream until stiff. As cream begins to thicken add gradually three-fourths teaspoonful of vinegar. Season with a few grains of salt and a dash of paprika, then fold in one half tablespoonful of grated horseradish root.

SAUCE HOLLANDAISE.—Heat two tablespoons of butter in 2 tablespoons of vinegar and of chopped onion and one half pint of boiling water. Beat the yolks of two eggs light and mix with one tablespoon of flour, one half teaspoon of salt and a saltspoon of pepper. Cook gently in the hot vinegar and water and strain at once into the serving dish. This is nice with fish and with white asparagus boiled, drained and chilled on the ice. Serve the sauce hot.

MUSHROOM SAUCE.—Add one can of mushrooms to white or cream sauce and stand over hot water ten minutes but do not cook. Serve with chicken or sweet bread.

CUCUMBER SAUCE.—Pare four cucumbers, throw them into cold water for half an hour then grate them and drain. Add one tablespoon of grated onion and one half teaspoon of salt, one saltspoon of pepper and two tablespoons of vinegar (Tarragon if convenient). Whip six tablespoons of cream stiff, and stir gradually into the cucumber mixture and serve at once with creamed fish, deviled salt fish or baked or broiled fish or with cold boiled or baked mutton.

CLARET OR WINE SAUCE FOR GAME.—One half pint of claret or sherry, four tablespoons soup stock or water, one tablespoon lemon juice, one teaspoon grated horseradish, one saltspoon paprika and one half teaspoon of salt. Heat gently but do not boil. Serve hot with game.

SAUCE TARTARE.—Add two olives, one pickle or gherkins, one tablespoon of capers and one tablespoon of parsley all chopped fine together, to one half pint of mayonnaise dressing or to hot hallandaise sauce.

MINT SAUCE.—Twelve stalks of fresh mint, one tablespoon of sugar and one half cup of vinegar or lemon juice. Strip the mint leaves from the stalks and wash them, chop them very fine, add the sugar and mix well, add the vinegar, stir well, and cover and stand aside for an hour. Serve in sauce boat, with spring lamb.

APPLE SAUCE.—One pound green apples, one pint water, one half cup sugar. Core the apples but do not pare them. Cook with the water in a covered sauce pan. Press through a colander, add sugar to the pulps and cool. Serve with duck, goose and pork roast.

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE.—One pint green gooseberries, one tablespoon of butter, one saltspoon of grated nutmeg, four tablespoons soup stock, one half teaspoon of salt. Cook the gooseberries tender with the water in a covered saucepan about ten minutes. Press through a sieve and add other ingredients. Rhubarb may be substituted for the gooseberries. Nice with salt meats and mackeral and other salt fish.

CRANBERRY SAUCE.—One quart cranberries cooked with one pint of water for five minutes. Press through a colander, add one pound or two cups of sugar to the hot pulp, stir until melted and then cool. Serve with turkey, chicken, mutton or game and with escalloped oysters.

CURRANT JELLY SAUCE.—Add one glass of currant jelly to four tablespoons of hot water or rich soup stock. Turn this into the dish in which game has been roasted, bring to a boil and serve.

CURRY SAUCE.—One tablespoon butter, cooked with one tablespoon chopped onion, add one teaspoon of curry powder, one tablespoon of flour and stir smooth, then add one half pint of boiling water. Add one half teaspoon of salt and one tablespoonful of lemon juice after the sauce has cooked thick. Serve with canned chicken; with oysters, and with boiled rice, lima beans, cauliflower or cooked tomatoes.

BECHAMEL SAUCE.—Make like cream sauce using half cup of chicken stock and half cup of milk instead of milk alone adding one tablespoon chopped cooked carrots, one tablespoon chopped onion, cooked, and one saltspoon of celery seed. For French Bechamel sauce add one half can mushroom and two tablespoons of cream.

EGG SAUCE.—Add four hard boiled eggs, chopped fine, to cream sauce.

CAPER SAUCE.—Add one tablespoon capers to cream sauce.

BROWN SAUCE.—Drain the liquor from the pan in which meat is roasted reserving about four tablespoons of the fat for the sauce. Leave it in the roasting pan and brown two tablespoons of flour in it over the fire, blending it well. When smooth add one pint of hot stock or water, and a little salt or kitchen bouquet if preferred. To this gravy or meat sauce, variety is given by adding one tablespoon of tomato catsup or of Worcestershire sauce, or of mushroom catsup or of onion juice or one half can of mushrooms.

QUICK TOMATO AND CHILI RELISH FOR LOBSTER, SHELL FISH AND HAM.—Six tomatoes peeled, chopped and drained, two tablespoons minced celery or one half teaspoon celery seed, two tablespoons of vinegar, a little garlic or onion, one chopped chili pepper or one drop of tabasco sauce and one teaspoon of salt. If chili pepper is used bake it until skin cracks open, then peel and seed and chop fine. Let it cool and add to the tomato mixture. This is a relish served when ripe tomatoes are in season. It is not cooked. By substituting one cup of whipped cream for the vinegar and omitting the tabasco sauce, a nice sauce is quickly made to serve with cold beef, mutton or veal.

PIQUANTE SAUCE OR OLIVE OR VINEGAR SAUCE.—One tablespoon of chopped onion, one tablespoon of capers, two tablespoons of chopped pickles, or teaspoon of sugar, one half teaspoon of salt, two tablespoons of vinegar, one half saltspoon of pepper, four tablespoons of soup stock or water, and last if liked, three olives stoned and chopped fine or one tablespoon of minced parsley. Heat the soup stock, add vinegar and other ingredients. Serve with calf's head, boiled mutton, lobster or pigs feet.

SPANISH SAUCE.—One and one half pints stock, one tablespoon gelatine dissolved in water, four tablespoons of butter, two tablespoons of flour, two tablespoons chopped onion, a sprig of parsley, one tablespoon chopped celery, one tablespoon chopped carrot, one bay leaf, three whole cloves, a blade of mace, one teaspoon of salt and half saltspoon of pepper. Boil stock with the seasoning, until it is reduced to a pint, rub flour and butter together and add, cook thick and strain. At the last moment add the gelatine and serve with any fowl or meat that requires a rich brown sauce.

CELERY SAUCE.—One bunch of celery, one tablespoon of flour, and one of butter; one pint of stock, six tablespoons of cream, one level teaspoon of salt, dash of white pepper. Wash and cut up the celery, using green tops. Cook in the stock or water until very tender. Press through sieve; rub flour and butter together and cook in the celery puree, add the seasoning and serve with boiled mutton, chicken or rabbit.

OYSTER SAUCE.—Drain half a pint of oysters, wash and cook them in a saucepan until gills curl. Add to cream sauce and serve with boiled poultry or fish.

SAUCE SAUBISE.—Boil three chopped onions in water until tender; drain and add to cream sauce. Serve with fowl.

Bread and Rolls

"The loaf is, after all, the thing that's most essential."—J. W. Foley.

WHITE AND RYE BREAD.—While boiling potatoes I save the potato water, about one pint. After it is cooled and only luke warm, I soak in it one cake of yeast foam, one teaspoonful of sugar and a small pinch of ginger, and then let it dissolve until supper time; then take a quart of wheat flour and mix with a little warm water, or water and milk, and add your yeast so that the sponge will not be too thin, but like a stiff batter. Let it stand over night in a warm place to raise. Next morning I divide the sponge, using two thirds of it for wheat bread and one third for rye bread, as you can bake six loaves of bread from one cake of yeast; four of wheat and two of rye. To the two thirds part of sponge I take two quarts of wheat flour, one tablespoonful of salt and water enough to make quite a stiff dough. For the rye bread one quart of rye flour with one and one half cups of wheat flour and one teaspoonful of salt. Knead it same as for wheat bread, then let it raise again and when it has doubled in size, it is ready for the tins and after raising there until light, it is ready for the oven in which if hot it will bake in from three fourths to one hour. Before putting it in the oven, I usually wash it with luke warm milk to give it a nice brown color while baking.—Mrs. John Bruegger. Demonstration of German Cookery, breads and cookies.

GERMAN COFFEE CAKE.—Next comes German coffee cake and rolls. I set the sponge with one cake of yeast as for bread and mix it the next morning with two cups of sugar, one tablespoonful of butter, two tablespoons of lard, three eggs, grated rind and juice of one lemon, a little nutmeg, a teaspoonful of salt, add two quarts of white flour, and knead with milk and water, not quite so stiff as for bread. Let it raise two hours after which put it in tins and let raise again; then melt butter and spread on coffee cake and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, and it is ready for the oven and ought to be quickly baked. From this dough you can bake quite a variety, for instance, one dozen rolls, two plain coffee cakes, one dozen raised doughnuts and one loaf cake. For the loaf cake you add one cupful of raisins, a little chopped citron, almond extract, one egg and a little butter, beat well with a spoon and fill in a sponge cake tin and let it raise before putting it in the oven to bake, then bake three quarters of an hour.—Mrs. John Bruegger. German Cookery demonstration.

RYE BREAD.—To one pint of water (luke warm) add one cake of yeast foam, one teaspoon salt, two tablespoons sugar, and one medium sized boiled potato. Mash this fine and mix with the salt and sugar in the water; let this stand until evening, then add enough well sifted flour to make a stiff batter. Set in a warm place to rise over night. Next morning add one quart of luke warm water, one heaping teaspoon salt, one quart of white flour, and two quarts of rye flour all well sifted, and work all together, then knead for ten minutes, adding a little flour from time to time until it ceases to stick to the fingers or mold board, then put into a large bread pan and set in warm place to rise again, until light, then knead again, and make into loaves. Put into well greased bread pans, let raise and bake from one to one and a half hours. When done take out and brush lightly with melted butter or drippings.—Mrs. George Bruegger.

WHITE BREAD.—Scald one pint of milk with three tablespoons of lard then put in bread pan with one quart of warm water; add two tablespoons sugar, two tablespoons salt. Stir in flour to make a thick batter one yeast cake that has been soaked well in water. I make sponge after dinner and let set till evening then mix into a large loaf; let stand till morning. Before breakfast knead into loaves. This will make from three to four loaves of bread.—Mrs. Southard.

GRAHAM BREAD.—Make the yeast sponge as above but add one half cup cooking molasses and a little more sugar. Do not make sponge too thick with white flour. Mix in evening, with graham flour but not quite as stiff as white bread. Graham bread is very slow to raise.

DATE BREAD.—One cup of chopped dates, two cups milk, one third cup sugar, one fourth yeast cake, one fourth cup luke warm water, one half teaspoon salt, five cups of sifted flour. Mix and knead like bread and bake in loaves.

POCKET BOOK ROLLS.—Warm one quart new milk, add one cup butter or lard, four tablespoons sugar and two well beaten eggs. Stir in flour enough to make a moderately stiff sponge. Add a small cup of yeast and set in a warm place to rise, which will take three or four hours, then mix in flour enough to make a soft dough and let rise again. When well risen dissolve a lump of soda, size of a bean, in spoon of milk and work into the dough and roll into sheets one half inch thick. Spread with butter, cut into squares and fold over, pocket book shape. Put in tins, let rise a while and bake.—Mrs. L. L. Lampman.

ROLLS.—Take two teacupsful of light sponge. Add to it one half cup shortening, one cup of sugar and two cups of warm water. Mix with flour and knead but do not make a very stiff dough. Let raise all day. In evening form rolls and let them raise all night. Bake in moderate oven.—Mrs. Harry Hanson.

RAISED BISCUITS.—One cup of flour scalded with generous pint of hot potato water. (Boil potatoes and drain water for this). When cold add one cake of yeast dissolved in luke warm water. Mix this at noon and let it stand, uncovered, until night, then add one pint of warm water and enough flour to make a light sponge, beating well. Let stand until morning in a warm place or in a covered bread pan well wrapped to retain the heat. Add to this sponge in the morning one small cup of sugar, two eggs and one half cupful lard and a generous tablespoon of salt. Mix stiff with flour. Let stand until light then knead well, let raise an hour and knead again and make into biscuits. Put in greased baking pans and let raise until very light. Bake in a moderate oven.—Mrs. George W. Newton.

ALMOND WREATH.—Two ounces of flour; two cakes of yeast; one pint of luke warm milk; a tablespoonful of salt. Mix into a light sponge and let it rise all night. In the morning add six ounces of butter and the same of pulverized sugar, six eggs, one pint of rich cream and enough flour to make a soft dough. Let it rise again until very light. Then roll out with few and swift strokes of the rolling-pin into a sheet less than half an inch thick and cut into strips. Braid these into a coronet about some round object in the center. Or you may make it into a round cake if you like. Shell half a pound of sweet almonds, blanch and shred them and dry in the oven for a few minutes. Then mix them with granulated and coffee sugar and cinnamon and strew over the cakes when you have washed the surface with white of egg to make the mixture stick. Bake in a moderate oven. This quantity will make at least six large cakes.

YEAST.—Three heaping tablespoons flour, two of salt, two tablespoons of sugar. Pour one dipperful of boiling water on this and add twelve mashed potatoes. Add cold water enough to cool for yeast. Add one yeast cake which has been soaked one half hour in tepid water. Use half of this for one baking.—Mrs. A. McKay.

Biscuits, Jems, Pancakes and Fritters

"What an excellent thing did God bestow on man when He gave him a good stomach."—Beaumont and Fletcher.

FRITTERS.—Beat four eggs very light. Do not separate yolks and whites but beat together about five minutes; add one scant cupful of milk, one small teaspoon of salt and just a dash of baking powder (about as large as a small bean). Quickly whisk in enough sifted flour to make a thin pan cake batter. Beat smooth. Drop by spoonfuls into deep smoking hot lard and fry like doughnuts. Drain, and serve immediately with maple syrup, honey or jelly sauce.—Mrs. B. G. Whitehead.

SOUTHERN WAFFLES.—Mix together one scant pint of sifted flour and one generous pint of milk until smooth; add one half cupful of melted butter and the well beaten yolks of three eggs; then the well beaten whites and one half teaspoon of salt. Just before baking add two teaspoonfuls of baking powder and hot lard. Bake in a hot, well greased waffle iron and serve immediately with butter and maple syrup or honey.—Mrs. B. G. Whitehead.

PAN CAKES.—For a family of six, take one quart of butter milk or of slightly clabbered sour milk. Beat into it two level teaspoons of soda and one small teaspoon of salt. Add the beaten yolks of two eggs and then enough flour to make a smooth batter, not too stiff. If too thick add a little more milk. Lastly add one tablespoon of melted butter and the stiffly beaten whites of eggs. Rub the smoking hot griddle with a piece of suet fastened to a skewer or fork, drop butter on by tablespoonful and bake the cakes a nice brown, turning once. Serve immediately on hot plates. These cakes may be served with butter and syrup or they may be spread with jam or jelly and rolled. Using half flour with half corn meal makes good corn cakes or half graham flour for graham cakes.—Mrs. Whitehead.

CORN OYSTERS OR CORN FRITTERS.—Grate eight large ears of corn, or split each row of corn down the center and scrape out all of the pulp. Beat the yolks of two eggs, add them to the corn pulps with half a teaspoon of salt and the beaten whites of eggs and then add enough rolled cracker crumbs to make a thick batter. Fry oyster shape, in deep, smoking fat and put in the oven to crisp while the balance of the cakes are frying. Do not use flour to thicken the batter. The crackers are much nicer and give the true oyster flavor. These are made from fresh, green corn, only.—Mrs. Whitehead.

CORN DODGERS.—Put one cup of corn meal, one half teaspoon of salt in double boiler; add one cup boiling water; beat smooth and add one tablespoon butter. Cook and steam covered for one hour. Butter a griddle, drop by spoonful on it, put down fat and when browned put bit of butter on each, before turning. Good served with broiled ham or cooked in frying pan after bacon or sausage.

HOE CAKE.—Put one quart of white corn meal in a bowl; add one teaspoon salt, add sufficient boiling water to just moisten, stirring all the time, beating to stiff batter. Moisten hands in cold water and make corn meal into small round cakes. Bake on plank in front of open fire three quarters of an hour or fry slowly on griddle. When done pull apart, butter and send to table hot.

BEATEN BISCUIT (VIRGINIA).—Three pints pastry flour mixed with one cup lard; one teaspoon salt, mix together like pie crust. Make into stiff dough with milk or milk and water mixed, and knead well; beat or pound with a rolling pin or mallet one hour. The dough should be smooth and glossy and bits should break off with a snap. Shape in thin, flat cakes. Pick all over with a sharp fork and bake until a delicate brown and until the edges crack a little. Must bake thoroughly or they will be heavy in the middle.

JOHNNY CAKE OR CORN BREAD.—One cup corn meal, one half cup flour, two small teaspoons sugar, two tablespoons butter, or drippings, one beaten egg; salt; one cup of sour milk; one level teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a bit of hot water. Beat well and bake in greased tin. May be made with sweet milk and baking powder if preferred. Makes one pan of bread. The foregoing recipes were demonstrated by Mrs. Whitehead in a paper on Southern Cookery.

POPOVERS.—Cup sweet milk, one egg, two tablespoons melted butter, two cups flour, two heaping teaspoons baking powder. Bake in gem pans in a hot oven.—Mrs. Mary Harvey.

GRAHAM MUFFINS.—One egg, one and one half cups sour milk, one teaspoon soda, a little salt, two tablespoons melted butter, two tablespoons molasses, graham flour to make a light batter. Bake in gem tins.—Mrs. Mary Harvey.

WHEATEN GEMS.—Mix one teaspoon baking powder and a little salt into one pint of flour; add to the beaten yolks of two eggs one teacup sweet milk or cream; a piece of butter (melted) half the size of an egg, the flour with baking powder and salt mixed and the well beaten whites of the two eggs. Beat well and bake immediately in gem pans in a hot oven.—Mrs. L. L. Lampman.

PRUNE BROWN BREAD.—One cup corn meal, two cups graham flour, one half cup molasses, one cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda and same of salt, one cup dried prunes washed, pitted and chopped fine. Scald the corn meal and then add the other ingredients; put in greased tins and steam three hours.—Mrs. L. L. Lampman.

MRS. BURK'S NUT BREAD.—Baking powder. One cup sugar, one egg, two cups sweet milk, a pinch of salt, four teaspoons baking powder, four cups flour, one cup of chopped walnuts or more, mix together, let raise twenty minutes, pour into greased coffee cans (uncovered). Bake in moderate oven till brown (45 minutes or more). Slice cold.—Mrs. S. J. Creaser.

BAKING POWDER BISCUITS.—One quart flour, three teaspoons baking powder, one teaspoon salt, sifted through the flour, mix smooth with three tablespoons of butter and lard in equal portions, mix lightly into a soft dough with about three cups milk. Roll and cut in small biscuits. Bake in greased tins in a quick oven.—Dorothy Whitehead.

SWEDISH TIMBALE CASES.—Beat one egg well; add one fourth cup of milk, a few grains of salt, one teaspoon of olive oil and one half cup of flour or enough to make almost a drop batter. Beat it until very nice and smooth. Pour it into a small cup just large enough to hold the timbale iron. Heat the timbale iron in the hot fat for about ten minutes, then lower it into the batter about one inch, turn it partly over as you take it out so the cases will not slip off, then plunge the iron into the fat and when browned slightly lift it up, and drain and slip the cup from the iron. When all are fried fill the cases with any delicate meat, game, fish or oysters, cut small and warmed in a rich cream sauce.—Contributed.

PANCAKES.—One cup sour milk, half cup of sour cream, small teaspoon soda dissolved in water and stirred in the milk; half teaspoon salt, one teaspoon baking powder mixed with flour enough to make thin batter.—Mrs. L. L. Lampman.

PANCAKES.—Two cups flour, two cups milk, two teaspoonfuls sugar, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, one teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful melted butter, two eggs beaten separately. Have griddle hot and clean but do not grease. Blueberries stirred into pancake batter, as many as you wish, are excellent.—Mrs. Davidson.

TIMBALES.—One fourth cup flour, one half teaspoon salt, one teaspoon of sugar, one egg (beaten), one tablespoon olive oil or butter. Mix the dry parts together and add milk, egg and olive oil. Strain through sieve. Dip hot tambale iron into the grease then into the batter then into the hot grease to cook. Drain and use as pastry shells for creamed peas, chicken, mushroom or oysters.

WITH BEER.—Timbales are very tender and nice made with stale beer or ale. Let one half pint of beer stand in an open dish over night. Omit the sugar and milk and mix flour with the beer, following other directions as given above.—Contributed.

MRS. ALLEMAN'S APPLE FRITTERS.—One cup flour, one teaspoon baking powder, pinch salt, and yolk of two eggs beaten light, with cup of milk. Grate in three medium sized apples, beat well and fold in stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Drop by spoonful into hot fat and fry until nicely browned. Drain on brown paper and serve with maple syrup. For corn fritters use one cup of canned corn in place of apples.—Contributed.

POP OVERS.—Two cups flour, two cups sweet milk, two eggs, one teaspoon sugar, one quarter teaspoon salt. Beat well together. Put in hot gem tins and bake in hot oven.—Contributed.

PAN CAKES.—One cup of flour sifted with one teaspoon of baking powder, one half teaspoon of salt and one teaspoon of sugar, add enough milk to wet it, then beat in one egg thoroughly, add three teaspoons of melted butter and then thin to a smooth batter with milk, beat thoroughly and bake on a well greased, hot griddle.—Mrs. A. McKay.

JENNY LIND PANCAKE.—Two eggs, pinch of salt, tablespoonful sugar, small cup of flour, one cup of milk, one half teaspoon baking powder. Bake in an omelette pan, put jelly on top, roll and sprinkle with powdered sugar.—Mrs. Lynch.

DATE MUFFINS.—Beat the yolks of two eggs until light. Add one cupful of milk. Sift together one and a half cupfuls of entire wheat flour, one and a half teaspoonfuls of baking powder and one quarter teaspoon of salt. Add the milk and eggs and a tablespoonful of melted butter, and give the batter a good beating. Now add half a cup of dates chopped coarsely and floured, and last of all add the stiffly beaten whites. Mix. Fill gem pans two thirds full and bake in a moderately hot oven for half an hour. These are excellent.


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