Lesson 6

Courtesy of M. J. Whittall.Fig. 122.—Wool carding. Notice the round cylinders. The gauzy web is being delivered into the can in front of the carding machine.

Courtesy of M. J. Whittall.

Fig. 122.—Wool carding. Notice the round cylinders. The gauzy web is being delivered into the can in front of the carding machine.

The next process after blending is carding.Do you remember how cotton is carded? Long ago, when Marjorie's grandmother was young, wool was carded by hand. Look at the picture on page 77 and see how Grandmother Allen holds the cards. She is preparingrolls of wool for the spinning wheel. The manufacturer must prepare the slivers, or rolls like ropes of wool, for the spinning frames as they are called to-day. The machine which helps to produce these ropes is called the carding machine. It also helps to clean the dirt from the wool. The picture (Fig. 122) will show you how the wool carder looks. There is a center cylinder and around it revolve small cylinders. They are all covered with wire teeth which help to pull the wool apart and to cleanse it. If you were to stand before the machine, you would see a gauzy, filmy sheet of wool the width of the long rollers as it leaves the machine.The wide gauzy mass is pulled together as it is drawn through a hole at the front of the carder and is delivered or wound up in the can, just as we learned the cotton was delivered. This wool roving is then wound on spools and is ready for spinning. Do you remember the story of how cotton is drawn out and twisted and wound on spools? Wool too must be spun and made into yarn, before yarn can be woven into cloth. The manufacturer makes woolen yarn and also worsted yarn. Do you know the difference? We shall study in our next lesson about them.

EXERCISES AND PROBLEMS

1. Ask your grandmother to tell you about sheep raising on the farm, when she was a girl.2. Tell why the manufacturer must blend old and new wool. What are the names of some old rags of wool used for this purpose?3. Tell how carding was done in olden times. How is wool carding done to-day? Why is carding an important process in the manufacture of cloth made from wool?

1. Ask your grandmother to tell you about sheep raising on the farm, when she was a girl.

2. Tell why the manufacturer must blend old and new wool. What are the names of some old rags of wool used for this purpose?

3. Tell how carding was done in olden times. How is wool carding done to-day? Why is carding an important process in the manufacture of cloth made from wool?

SOME FACTS TO REMEMBER IN PURCHASING WOOL CLOTHING

Why does the manufacturer use woolen yarn in weaving some materials and worsted yarn for others? If one knows this, it will be a guide in purchasing wool materials. The Pleasant Valley girls know.

The difference between woolen and worsted yarns.Before you can answer the question for this lesson, youmust learn the difference between woolen and worsted yarns. Worsted yarn is prepared from the sheep giving long wool. It is prepared by processes which comb it until all the short fibers are removed and only the long straight ones are used. This combing prepares the long wool fibers for spinning so that they lie parallel. This makes an expensive yarn because so much is combed away. This fine combed worsted yarn is used for high grade worsted materials, as some cheviots or fine tweeds, and for underwear.

Courtesy of M. J. Whittall.Fig. 123.—Wool combing for high grade materials. There is much waste.

Courtesy of M. J. Whittall.

Fig. 123.—Wool combing for high grade materials. There is much waste.

Woolen yarn is not combed to remove the short fibers. It is, instead, carded a great deal so that the wool fibers are well mixed and the serrations of the tinyfibers arranged so that they will interlock, when put in water of high temperature, and the gelatinous scales are opened up. Woolen yarn is woven into broadcloths and meltons. After the weaving the cloth is put into vats where the temperature opens up the serrations and the scales interlock, and make a close, smooth piece of cloth. This is called fulling. Isn't this interesting? Do you see why the manufacturer uses worsted instead of woolen yarn for making underwear? If worsted yarn were used for making broadcloth, there would not be the same close finish. The worsted yarn is combed and the fibers are not in position to interlock as in the woolen yarn (Fig. 124). Can you answer the question now why worsted yarn is used sometimes and woolen at others?

Fig. 124.—This shows the difference in the slivers of wool and worsted yarn.Ais the woolen yarn, well mixed;Bis the worsted yarn, well combed.

After the yarn has been spun, it is woven into cloth just as cotton is prepared and woven. Woolen yarn is fuzzy; cloth made from it is woven loosely and then it is put into vats and shrunken or fulled until the cloth is compact, as broadcloth.

Worsted yarn when made into cloth is shrunken very little or not at all. It is woven as it will appear.Beautiful homespuns and worsted suitings are the result.

Courtesy of M. J. Whittall.Fig. 125.—The spinning of wool into yarn.

Courtesy of M. J. Whittall.

Fig. 125.—The spinning of wool into yarn.

Many fabrics made of wool are of simple weave like the plain homespun, but complicated patterns are also woven of wool. The yarns are arranged in the loom in the same way as the cotton about which we studied. Many beautiful patterns are made in woolen materials, even the complicated patterns of double cloth weaving like the old-fashioned golf capes, made of doubh, which were worn a few years ago.

So you can see that the manufacturer must knowwhether he is to adulterate his wool cloth with cotton or reduce the cost of production by using mungo, shoddy, or flocks. Flocks is put in when the cloth is shrunken or fulled in the vats. The short pieces and dust, or flocks as it is called, are drawn in as the serrations open and the cloth is shrunken.

This is all useful to know, for it helps one in purchasing materials. Most of us cannot afford to buy cloth made of all new wool, but we should be able to tell whether cloth is made of cotton and wool mixed, or all wool. We will know by price whether the all wool is new wool or not. No shopkeeper should sell a cotton and wool for all wool. When we have our textiles labeled as foods are now labeled, we shall be able to tell. What have you learned to-day which will help you in purchasing wool materials?

Fig. 126.—This is the teasel which is used to brush the nap of the cloth in finishing. These small thistles are arranged in rows in the machine rollers through which the cloth passes.

Woolen and worsted yarns are used also in the manufacture of carpets, rugs, hosiery, blankets, underwear, and also for knitting purposes. Do you know how to knit? Does any one know at your home? It is a useful and pleasant accomplishment. Shawls, afghans, caps, and sweaters can all be knitted. Miss James taught the Pleasant Valley girls to knit bright scarfs which they wore for tobogganing the next winter. Some girls made them for sale.

Points about buying woolen garments.Here are a few things to think about which Miss Travers from the State College told the Mothers' Club of Pleasant Valley to remember in buying wool garments or materials.

1. Wool mixed with cotton should not be sold for all wool. It is a cheaper fabric. It wears fairly well, but is not so warm. Pull the fabric apart, untwist the fibers to see if cotton is present.

2. Garments bought ready-made of cotton and wool do not keep their shape as well as all wool garments.

3. Burning a piece of the fabric will help you to identify the fiber. Wool burns slowly, chars, and gives off an odor of burned feathers. Cotton burns quickly with a flame.

4. A good wool material can always be used over again. The inexpensive is not cheap unless you wish something which does not look well or wear well but is cheap.

5. Remember that a close twill weave is more durable than a basket weave. Think about this in buying; for the weave of material affects the wearing quality.

EXERCISES AND PROBLEMS

1. How is yarn which is to be used for underwear treated in manufacture? Why?2. How does this treatment differ from yarn used in the manufacture of broadcloth?3. What are some of the things your mother thinks about when she buys a garment made from wool, in order to get good value for her money?

1. How is yarn which is to be used for underwear treated in manufacture? Why?

2. How does this treatment differ from yarn used in the manufacture of broadcloth?

3. What are some of the things your mother thinks about when she buys a garment made from wool, in order to get good value for her money?

THE CLOTHING BUDGET

Have you ever thought how much your clothing costs father and mother every year? Marjorie Allen and Barbara Oakes tried to figure the cost one day. Girls must begin to learn how to spend wisely, for they will very soon have the responsibility of being spenders. If you can make some of your clothing, you will help to reduce the cost. Would you like to learn to make a budget as well as a simple dress skirt to wear over the bloomers? Suppose we study to-day about the clothing budget.

Have you ever tried to calculate how much is spent each year for your clothing?If not, suppose you try. Girls who know how to make some articles of clothing can have more for the same amount of money. Suppose you send for the material for your dress skirts. It is wise to learn to make a very simple skirt first. Choose a simple pattern. Your teacher will help you. What material will you use? Perhaps you would like a middy blouse later to wear with the skirt. Can you name some suitable cotton materials to use for this purpose? Yes, Indian head, galatea, duck. You have studied about all of these and should have them in your sample books. Such a dress will be suitable for school wear. Talk with your teacher and calculate how much cloth you must buy for your skirt and middy. While you are waiting for the cloth you have ordered, let us study how Marjorie's Cousin Ann, who works at Paterson, manages to plan each year for her clothing.She has such good plans. Do you know that such a plan is called a budget?

Fig. 127.—Cousin Ann's division of her money. How much was for clothing?

Would you like to learn to make your clothing budget?Ann earns $10 per week and her room and board cost her $6 per week, so she has $4 for other expenses. She puts aside $1.50 each week for clothing, and so has $6 per month or about $75 per year. She lives near her work so does not have daily carfare, and she goes home at the noon hour for a little rest and for lunch. The rest of her money she divides in this way: Each week she tries to save 75 cents or $3 per month. The rest she uses for church and club expenses, for gifts, newspapers, or occasionally she buys a new necktie or an extra waist; but usually the $75 supply all her clothing needs. This is how she manages. She plans for more than one year, usually trying to keep three years in mind. Ann also goes to the Girls' Club and has learned to make her waists and some simple dresses.

The following is what she bought the first year. Remember she had some clothes to begin with before she started to keep her clothing budget. Your budget will of course be different from this, but this will show how Ann manages with $75. Some things which sheneeds you may have no use for in your section of the country. Try to plan what you would substitute. This will at least be a working basis for you, and will give you some suggestions for making yours. Marjorie Allen and Barbara Oakes have made their clothing budgets. They have $60 per year for clothing. What do you think they omitted from this list? The things marked * are made at home. Ann's mother helps her; but Ann learned to make clothes at her Sewing Club.

First Year

2 union suits (winter) @ #2.00$4.003 union suits (summer) @ .501.501 flannelette nightdress @ 1.001.001 flannelette nightdress left over2 night dresses @.801.60*3 corset covers @.501.502 pairs of corsets @ 2.004.006 pairs of stockings @.251.502 pairs of garters @.25.50shoes: 1 high lace @ 3.002 pairs low shoes @ 2.508.001 pair rubbers.751 black sateen petticoat1.001 long white petticoat1.252 short white petticoats @.751.50retrimming last year's best winter hat1.25summer hat (new)4.001 straw hat, common wear.751 umbrella1.00*1 wool dress skirt4.00*3 shirt waists: 2 tailored @ 1.00*1 fancy @ 1.50$ 3.501 winter coat12.001 spring coat (left from last year)1 pair kid gloves1.501 pair wool gloves.501 wool dress (winter, bought close of season)12.001 sweater3.00*1 summer dress3.00*1 white duck dress skirt1.001 party dress (left over from last year)Gloves, handkerchiefs, neckties, collarsreceived for Christmas.———Total$75.60

Notice that in the second year some articles are left over from the year before. This is because Ann has foresight. She is a good manager, and takes care of her clothes too, and plans ahead. Do you?

Second Year

2 union suits (left from last year, winter)2 union suits (left from last year, summer)1 new union suit summer$ .502 flannelette nightgowns (left over)2 summer nightdresses (left over)1 new summer nightdress.75*3 corset covers @.501.502 pairs of corsets @ 2.004.006 pairs of stockings @ .251.502 pairs of garters @.25.50shoes: 1 high laced @ 3.001 pair low shoes @ 2.501 pair low left over, half soled @ .751 pair high laced, half soled @ .757.001 pair rubbers$ .751 black sateen petticoat1.001 long white petticoat (left over)2 short white petticoats (left over)1 new short white petticoat.751 winter hat5.001 winter hat (left over) common wear1 summer hat (retrimmed)1.501 new summer hat (second)2.001 umbrella (left over)*1 wool skirt (refreshened)1.00*2 shirt waists (plain) @ 1.002.00*1 extra white waist @ 1.501.502 shirt waists (left over)1 winter coat (left over)1 spring coat (new)12.001 pair kid gloves1.001 pair wool gloves (left over)1 wool dress (left over)1 sweater (left over)*1 summer dress (left over, remodeled)1.001 white duck skirt (left over)*1 new white duck skirt1.00*1 party dress8.001 coat suit, bought end of winter season14.002 gingham aprons1.001 gingham house dress (ready-made)1.501 summer dress4.00———Total$74.75

Try to find below, in the list for third year, the articles left over. Also new articles which will be of service the fourth year. Do you not think it is wise to plan in this way? Marjorie and Barbara have enjoyed making their budgets.

Third Year

2 union suits, winter @ 2.00$ 4.002 union suits, summer @ .501.001 union suit, summer (left over)2 flannelette nightgowns @ 1.002.001 new summer nightgown @ .75.751 summer nightgown (left over)*3 corset covers @ .501.502 pairs corsets @ 2.004.006 pairs of stockings @ .251.502 pairs garters @ .25.50shoes: 1 pair high laced @ 3.001 pair high laced repaired, left over, @ .751 pair low shoes (new) @ 2.501 pair party slippers (new) @ 2.008.251 pair rubbers.751 black sateen petticoat1.001 long white petticoat1.251 new short white petticoat.751 short white petticoat (left over)retrimming last year's winter hat1.251 winter hat (common wear)1.501 summer hat (new)5.001 summer hat (remodeled, common wear)1.001 umbrella1.00*1 wool skirt4.00*2 shirt waists (plain) @ 1.002.00*1 extra white waist @ 1.001.002 shirt waists (left over)1 winter coat (left over 2 years)1 spring coat (left over one year)1 pair kid gloves1.501 pair wool gloves.50*1 wool dress (remodeled after 2 winters' wear)$ 3.002 white duck skirts (left over)1 party dress left over (refreshened)2.501 coat suit (left over)2 gingham aprons (left over)1 gingham house dress (new)1.501 gingham house dress (left over)1 summer dress remodeled1.001 new summer dress4.001 raincoat5.001 wool dress (bought towards close of season)10.001 pair winter arctics2.00———Total$75.00

EXERCISES AND PROBLEMS

Plan a clothing budget with mother's help, and see how yours will differ from the above. Perhaps mother spends less for your clothes or more. Mrs. Allen says that Marjorie is learning to purchase so wisely that next year she may buy all of her own clothes. Of course, Mrs. Allen will always be willing to help when Marjorie needs her.

PLANNING TO MAKE A DRESS SKIRT OF COTTON MATERIAL

Let us begin to make our dress skirts.

Open the pattern carefully and examine it.How did you order it, by age or by waist measure? The pattern books usually say order by age for a girl unless she is large or small for her age; then order by waist measure.

Fig. 128.—The simple dress skirt and shirt waist.

Notice how many pieces you have.Notice whether some are to be cut on a lengthwise fold: perhaps, thecenter front and maybe the center back if it has a panel front and back. Notice how many gores there are. Do you know what a skirt gore is? Look at your pieces. A gore is always wider at the bottom than at the top. Can you tell why? Gores are of different shapes. Style sometimes regulates the width, for some seasons skirts are very narrow and at other times very full. The gores help to reduce the fullness around the waist. Do you understand? Notice how many gores your pattern has. The front panel is counted as one gore, and the back panel a gore. There are skirt patterns with three, four, or even eleven or more gores. Perhaps your pattern has three gores like the one in the picture (Fig. 128). Then the center back will be cut on a lengthwise fold of material, as there will be two front gores joining the back with seams at the hips. This is an easy pattern and suitable for a young girl. One must think of suitability in selecting the style to be worn. Instead of three, you may have a plain five or seven gored skirt. Then the center front will be placed on a lengthwise fold, and there will be two gores each side of the front for the five gored skirt, and three each side of the front for the seven gored. A five gored skirt is a simple one.

Study your pattern.Notice all the notches; also just where the pattern is to be placed on the warp threads. This is very necessary. Take your tapeline and measure the skirt length; compare with your own measures. Your teacher will show you how to take your skirt measure, at front, hips, and back, from the waist line to the desired length (see page 50). You have learned how. Pin the tapeline about the waist and measure from it. If your pattern is too long, it will be wise to double it over at the center to reduce the length. If too short, add a few inches at the bottom in cutting your cloth. Remember you must allow for the hem according to desired width (see page 50 for changing patterns).

Now lay the pieces economically.Remember the wide end of the gore usually cuts to best advantage at the end of the cloth. Pin and cut out after your teacher has approved.

The pattern usually allows from3⁄8to 1 inch for seams. Notice how much. Match the notches, pin, baste, and then try on. If too loose or too tight, it is possible to stitch inside or outside of the bastings and so to alter. The seams can be finished by overcasting the rough edges (see Fig. 28).

If your pattern calls for an opening or placket at one side of the front, it will be appropriate to make a hem running lengthwise of the skirt as a finish at the placket, and the skirt will not be seamed with a simple seam at that place. Turn to the wrong side one inchfor hem along the right front. Baste. Lap this hem over the left side. Baste flat to the left portion of front, and stitch nearly one inch from edge, to within 8 or 9 inches of the top. The placket opening on the under side of front can be bound with a two inch strip, sewing on right side at the edge and turning to wrong just at the edge. If the pattern does not allow for a hem on right front and lap finish on the right side of front, but only for a simple seam, then it will be necessary to face the right front portion with a strip 1½ inches wide.

Pin the skirt to the belting.It is possible to turn in the skirt edge at top of belt so that it comes even with the top of the belt. This makes a slightly raised waist line. Stitch neatly at the top edge. Turn hem at the bottom the desired width and baste carefully. The stitching of the hem can be done on the right side for neater finish if the basting is done with care.

Sew on hooks and eyes. Be careful to attach the hooks so that they will not show on the outside of skirt.

Mollie Stark was so successful with her skirt that she made one for her older sister Ruth, and also won the prize at the County Fair contest.

EXERCISES AND PROBLEMS

1. Study some of the skirt patterns which mother has at home. Compare with the one used at school.2. What is a skirt gore? Describe. Draw on the blackboard.3. Give some suggestions for economical cutting.

1. Study some of the skirt patterns which mother has at home. Compare with the one used at school.

2. What is a skirt gore? Describe. Draw on the blackboard.

3. Give some suggestions for economical cutting.

CLOTHING IN RELATION TO HEALTH

Do you know that clothes help to keep us well? The Pleasant Valley girls learned how, and we are to study, too.

Well people are usually happy people and they can do many more things for themselves and for others than sick people. Have you ever thought about this? All people wish to be well, but many are not because they forget that it is absolutely necessary to think each day about keeping well. There are many things which help to accomplish this. One cannot wait until the end of the month or year to think about keeping well, but must do so every day, as you have learned. Exercise and good habits, sleep, proper food, recreation, and proper clothing all have a share. Clothes are more important than people think. Ill health is often the result of lack of thought in the protection of the body. Let us study how clothes affect health. You know clothing helps to keep us warm or cool, if we dress properly. You have learned how necessary it is to preserve an even body temperature. Growing girls must think about this, for no girl is well dressed who does not think about the relation of clothes to health. Is a dress really beautiful if it is unhygienic? Miss Travers told the Mothers' Club that clothing should serve our use in the best way, should be pleasing and artistic, but also comfortable enough to permit freedom. Did you ever feel sorry for the poor Chinese womenwho squeeze their feet? Many American women squeeze their waists as well as their feet. This prevents proper circulation of the blood and causes many complaints, loss of hair, and serious troubles, because the circulatory system cannot carry nourishment to the many parts of the body.

Perhaps you have noticed some girls wear very thin stockings, low shoes, and low-necked dresses; really very scant clothing in cold weather. Is this a good practice, do you think? Why not?

Fig. 129.—Shoes are important. Why?

Heat and energy are generated by the body. We have learned that it is a machine. Food, water, exercise, rest, keep it going. Heat and energy are the result and are needed if the machine is to run well. If the heat is all carried away quickly because the surfaces of the body are exposed to the cold, then there is a waste of the energy which should go to provide for the necessary workings of the body.

Why do we wear clothing?The principal reason is that the body may be protected from the cold and that the temperature of the body may be kept constant. It protects also from sharp, hard objects and briers and stones which might injure the feet. Many people think only of the decoration. This does affect our choice of clothes too, but should not be the prime consideration. Miss Travers told the girls of PleasantValley to keep these things in mind in choosing clothes:

Some things to remember in choosing wearing apparel.1. Adapt your clothing to your work. One cannot do garden and house work in stiff collars and unsuitable clothing.2. The condition of health will affect choice. Strong, well people do not need the same kind of clothing as sick or delicate people.3 Age makes a difference; young people are more vigorous than old people. Babies feel the heat or cold more than adults.4. Clothing should be chosen in relation to climate and temperature; in winter, one should prevent an undue loss of heat, in summer, clothing should not interfere with loss of heat.Some important things about wearing clothing.1. Wet clothing is very dangerous and should be removed at once. If this is not possible, exercise, keep moving, until there is opportunity for a rubdown and change. John Alden always runs when he gets his clothes very wet.2. The clothing worn next to the skin should be changed twice a week. The body gives off impurities which are absorbed by the clothing. This change is necessary if one wishes to keep well.3. Clothing worn at night should be aired during the day, not shut up in a closet or folded and placed under a pillow.4. Clothing worn during the day should be aired at night. This is necessary for health. The same underwear should never be worn day and night both. How do you air your clothes? (Fig. 56.) Many mothers do not change baby's shirt at night and wonder why he cannot sleep and is so cross. Sometimes this irritability is due to this very cause.

Some things to remember in choosing wearing apparel.

1. Adapt your clothing to your work. One cannot do garden and house work in stiff collars and unsuitable clothing.

2. The condition of health will affect choice. Strong, well people do not need the same kind of clothing as sick or delicate people.

3 Age makes a difference; young people are more vigorous than old people. Babies feel the heat or cold more than adults.

4. Clothing should be chosen in relation to climate and temperature; in winter, one should prevent an undue loss of heat, in summer, clothing should not interfere with loss of heat.

Some important things about wearing clothing.

1. Wet clothing is very dangerous and should be removed at once. If this is not possible, exercise, keep moving, until there is opportunity for a rubdown and change. John Alden always runs when he gets his clothes very wet.

2. The clothing worn next to the skin should be changed twice a week. The body gives off impurities which are absorbed by the clothing. This change is necessary if one wishes to keep well.

3. Clothing worn at night should be aired during the day, not shut up in a closet or folded and placed under a pillow.

4. Clothing worn during the day should be aired at night. This is necessary for health. The same underwear should never be worn day and night both. How do you air your clothes? (Fig. 56.) Many mothers do not change baby's shirt at night and wonder why he cannot sleep and is so cross. Sometimes this irritability is due to this very cause.

5. Outer garments should be rather closely woven, so that the wind cannot penetrate and carry the heat away too rapidly.6. Heavy garments are a great burden. One wearing them is not free to act or work.

5. Outer garments should be rather closely woven, so that the wind cannot penetrate and carry the heat away too rapidly.

6. Heavy garments are a great burden. One wearing them is not free to act or work.

Next lesson we will study about selecting our clothes, shoes, underwear, and other garments with reference to health.

EXERCISES AND PROBLEMS

1. Write on the blackboard some important things to remember in choosing wearing apparel.2. Tell some important things to remember in wearing clothing.

1. Write on the blackboard some important things to remember in choosing wearing apparel.

2. Tell some important things to remember in wearing clothing.

MORE HEALTH PROBLEMS IN CHOOSING CLOTHES

Clothes help to keep us well. Let us study about the wise selection and use of them.

Buying shoes.When Barbara Oakes goes to buy a pair of shoes what do you suppose she thinks about besides the fact that they are pretty and that she likes or dislikes them? She remembers that they should fit her feet. She thinks about these things:

1. They should suit her purpose, be adapted to her use.

2. They should fit the instep and heel snugly.

3. They should be straight on the inside line.

4. The heel should be broad enough to balance the body well.

5. The soles should be strong enough to walk, and thick enough so dampness cannot strike through.

6. There should be plenty of room for the toes to move. (See Fig. 129).

7. They should be long and wide enough for comfort. Tight shoes are a strain on the body.

Many girls have "fallen arch." This affects the whole nervous system and makes them ill. Many are suffering and do not know the cause. Barbara Oakes was ill for a long time before her mother or the doctor knew why. It is not necessary to wear an arch supporter or an orthopedic shoe, if one has normal feet; and one can have normal feet if the above things are remembered. Some girls choose foolish footwear, and later have much discomfort and are unable to walk.

Very great care must be taken to keep the feet dry. It is cheaper to buy a pair of rubbers than to pay a doctor; and rubbers save shoes and keep the wet from rotting the thread of the shoes. Many women forget that it is dangerous for a woman to get her feet wet.

Selecting clothing that is healthful.Stockingsshould be chosen in relation to climate. It is unwise to wear thin, transparent stockings on a cold day. If possible have two weights and select according to weather.

Corsetsare important. They may seriously affect health if not worn correctly. They should fit snugly over the hips but allow freedom at the waist line. For young girls corset waists are very satisfactory. Great care should be taken, however, when the first corset isselected. Jane Smith says her mother tried several for her before getting exactly the right one. The corset should leave no marks on the body. The danger is that, unless well fitted, a corset interferes with circulation. Lacing causes all kinds of troubles. It deforms the body and makes it hour glass in shape, instead of free and beautiful like Miss James' picture of the Venus de Milo (Fig. 130). When tight bands or corsets interfere with circulation, the blood supply for the brain and the other organs is shut off, and consequently these organs are not nourished. Most girls wish to preserve the graceful waist line with which nature has endowed them. Do you? Fat easily accumulates around the waist, but plenty of exercise, gardening, sweeping, walking, climbing, will prevent this. Buy a corset which supports your organs, one which does not press downwards; and arrange the garters so that they will not be too tight and interfere with the circulation.

Fig. 130.—Notice the beautiful lines on the figure of Venus de Milo.

Underwear affects health.Do you remember that we discovered the reason why one should be particular about the kind of underwear worn? We learned that ill health and fatigue are often caused by weight ofclothing or by tight clothing causing lack of circulation or by clothing which prevents the skin from being ventilated. Textile materials and temperature of the body are closely related. We should learn to know which materials to select. Each person feels the need differently. Old people and little babies feel the heat or cold more than other people. Grandmother Stark usually feels cold and wears a shawl about her shoulders. Underwear must be chosen in relation to climatic conditions and also for conditions under which one wears them, for indoor or outdoor work. Each must study her health, the climate, her age, and occupation, and plan accordingly for the best kind.

Underwear should be chosen which can be easily cleansed, also that which will permit plenty of air next to the skin. These properties of materials, as we call them, must be studied.

The body, as we know, loses heat and water every day. Some materials conduct heat more rapidly than others; and some absorb and retain, while others eliminate, moisture more readily. Absorption and elimination differ with different fabrics. Linen is quicker than other fabrics to eliminate moisture. Wool on a dry body of a person who does not exercise freely feels warm and continues so as long as the skin does not give off more moisture than the wool can take up. If the body continues then to give off moisture, the heat of the body cannot escape and one does not feel comfortable. If a current of air or a draught occurs,the heat will be conducted quickly and the bodily temperature reduced too quickly. So underwear must not only prevent too great loss of heat by conduction, but must be so constructed as to conserve heat when it is needed.

Heat is eliminated when materials conduct it. Porosity of materials prevents too great elimination. The air in the meshes or pores prevents this, as a still layer of air does not conduct heat readily. A loosely woven or knitted shawl is warmer under certain conditions than one which is firmer. Two lightweight garments are better than one heavy one because of the air space between.

Wool is warm, but irritating to many people. It is not as cleanly as some fabrics, for it absorbs the body excretions and is not easily laundered. As it shrinks with use, it has fewer air spaces between the meshes. Any loosely woven or knitted underwear with air spaces is more hygienic than the closely woven.

Cotton garments are often woven loosely and so treated in manufacture that they absorb easily. Silk is very pleasing but costly. Silk and wool combined are also excellent, but expensive. The great argument for wool or for wool and cotton is that evaporation is slow unless moisture and draught are present, and so the bodily temperature is not apt to be reduced so unduly as through cotton or linen; in other words, one is not so apt to take cold.

Union suits form an even layer over the whole bodyand are considered more hygienic than the double layer of vest and drawers at the abdomen.

EXERCISES AND PROBLEMS

1. What underwear do you think is the best kind for you to wear considering your age, work, climate, health?2. Write a composition of two hundred words about the best kind of corsets to wear, and why.3. What important things will you consider the next time you buy a pair of shoes?

1. What underwear do you think is the best kind for you to wear considering your age, work, climate, health?

2. Write a composition of two hundred words about the best kind of corsets to wear, and why.

3. What important things will you consider the next time you buy a pair of shoes?

REVIEW PROBLEMS

I. Begin to keep your clothing budget. Ask mother to permit you to plan it. Do not stop at the end of the year; keep on for at least four years.II. In what ways are you definitely planning each day to keep well? How do clothes help?III. What facts learned at school can you give mother about wool, which will help in buying your new winter coat.IV. Plan a school exhibit of all the work done during the year. Your teacher will make suggestions about the refreshments and invitations as well as plans for mounting the work.

I. Begin to keep your clothing budget. Ask mother to permit you to plan it. Do not stop at the end of the year; keep on for at least four years.

II. In what ways are you definitely planning each day to keep well? How do clothes help?

III. What facts learned at school can you give mother about wool, which will help in buying your new winter coat.

IV. Plan a school exhibit of all the work done during the year. Your teacher will make suggestions about the refreshments and invitations as well as plans for mounting the work.

CHOOSING AND WEARING CLOTHES

Have you ever thought that being properly and attractively dressed helps towards achieving success in life? Marjorie's Cousin Ann says she knows that the neat, tidy girls who come to the factory looking for work are more apt to be chosen than those who are careless about their dress. Cousin Ann, as you have learned, is very particular about her appearance. She learned long ago that cleanliness of clothing is the first essential in being well dressed, and that neatness is another requirement. Cousin Ann knows that it takes time to wash out her collars, her shields, and stockings every other night; but she also realizes that she must be particular about her appearance if she wishes to be retained at the factory. She takes time to mend the tears which sometimes come so unexpectedly, and the lace which is ripped on her waist, or to sew on the button which will soon be lost from her coat unless sewed. If she spills anything on her dress or coat, she tries as soon as possible to remove the spot. This takesthought, too, as well as time; but Ann knows that it pays. Have you, too, thought about these things? One must also know what is suitable and appropriate for various occasions, and how to choose becoming colors in materials or hats and gowns if one buys them ready-made. This is really a study in buying, too, and of knowing how materials are made and can be tested. All these things were discussed by Miss James and the Pleasant Valley girls. They were always very glad when Miss Travers came to help too.

WHAT IT MEANS TO BE WELL DRESSED

The Pleasant Valley girls have decided that it is worth while learning about suitable and attractive dress. They are anxious to begin this study. Suppose we learn some of the things one must think about and study in order to be properly and attractively dressed.

One does not have to be expensively dressed in order to be attractively and well dressed. Much depends on appropriateness. It is not appropriate for a girl to wear jewelry, thin stockings, low fancy slippers, lace waists, feather hats, to work or to school. How much more attractive and appropriate is a plain, neat shirt waist and cloth skirt, a plain necktie and a simple hat, and plain boots or ties. One should not dress as if one were going to a party when one goes to work or to school. Do you understand what appropriatenessmeans? It means wearing the suitable kind of clothing for every occasion. It is our duty to be as well dressed as possible, for our friends' sakes as well as for our own; but a well-dressed girl is never conspicuous. Clothes which would be appropriate in a large city for a reception might be very inappropriate in a small town. Our daily clothes should be adapted to our uses, whether in country or city. Would you wear your party dress for gardening or for tennis or skating?

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