We came upon two villages, but all the people had retreated to the mountains on account of the fear that beset them as soon as they detected our approach. In one of the villages we met an old woman who was not able to flee because she was completely incapacitated by age. As soon as we were able to approach her, she gathered strength in her decrepit bones and plunged into the river with a splash. One of the neophytes among the camp followers was forced to pull off his clothes in a great hurry and pull her out in spite of her attempt to surrender to the fury of the rough waves rather than come to us, even though we showed the greatest friendliness. Finally, having extricated her, we managed to calm her fright, by virtue of the kind treatment we gave her in accordance with our existing situation. As soon as she seemed to me to feel better I began to instruct her, setting before her the Kingdom of God and giving her as adequate a lesson as was permitted by the shortness of the time. I baptized her, she giving very clear evidence of the joy which filled her heart. Afterward, thoroughly exhausted, she was given a safe conduct, but even after she understood the meaning of this, she preferred to stay with us.1910th day and 30[September]. On this day one portion of the party went to the northwest and discovered another river similar to the Merced in its copious and Christian flow of water. But its banks are closer together. Another group went to the east, up the river. It found many heathen, without doubt from the five villages about which we had been given notice. At noon some heathen were seen among the willows along the river. They were hailed in the most friendly manner possible, but they showed themselves to be timid and did not dare to come out of their hiding places. Finally, convinced of our good faith and good intentions, three of them arrived at our camp. They were given something to eat and afterward a few presents were distributed among them, and then they were able to breathe freely. Then I told them how pleased I would be if they called their companions, and indeed they did so. In a short while they brought up to thirty persons, saying at the same time that the others were very much afraid and because of this did not wish to come. They entered the camp in this manner: on leaving the willow thicket along the river they laid down their weapons under a leafy oak tree and then in good order took the path to the encampment two by two, one of them in advance crying out in a loud voice. According to the interpreter, all he said consisted of a prayer for our friendship and of a demonstration of his good will. To this end it was decided to give them some food, and thereafter they went off very well content. They asked for a mission and baptism, after having been advised of the excellency of God and the benefit which would accrue to their souls. The Merced River is covered with wild vines and the Indians are bald and rather stupid. At this spot a cross was raised, which concluded the day.11th day and 1[October]. On this day the expedition continued in the same direction, toward the northwest, in search of the river discovered yesterday.20Having traveled about seven or eight leagues we reached it. It is a big river, as previously written while we were on the Merced. Its banks are close together and it provides only small meadows and a shortage of pasturage, because of the saline soil. We named this river Our Lady of Sorrows [Dolores] on account of its’ having been discovered on Her day in September. No heathen Indians were found on the river but we did see signs of several villages. No doubt those from the previous river [Merced] had brought them word, as a result of which they had taken flight. This was confirmed by the wide, heavily used trails which were encountered.12th day and 2[October]. In the morning we continued in the same direction as the day before and at about a league we came upon a dry creek bed full of sand but no water.21It could be a large river in the season of the rains or the melting snow. It has no border of oaks along its banks and few willows.From this creek we perceived at a short distance an oak forest lying in the same direction, and after going about two leagues we entered it. According to the way it appeared to us it was without end but actually it reaches about four leagues in width. Its length we could not determine, for it is very extensive. There are in this forest various kinds of oak and live oak. The grass is very sparse because the soil is very poor. After going into the woods about a league and a half we came upon a river similar to the preceding ones in size and clearness of the water, although its bed is narrower than the others.22The banks are covered with an infinity of wild grapevines, a little torote, and an abundance of ash trees. We pitched camp on this river, so as to use it as a base for further exploration. The river we named Our Lady of Guadalupe.13th day and 3[October]. In the morning the expedition went to the east along the margin of the river and, having traveled about six leagues, we came upon a village called Taulamne.23This village is situated on some steep cliffs, inaccessible because of theirrough rocks. The Indians live in caves; they climb and descend by a feeble pole held by one of them while he who is descending slides down. It was impossible for us to get them to come down to a little flat spot beside the stream where we had assembled near a pool formed by the river. Tired of promising them everything they wanted and seeing that they still persisted in their negative attitude, we determined to ascend on foot to where they were. We asked their permission to do so. This having been obtained we began to climb but it was not possible for us to reach the point where they were. As a result some twelve or fifteen of them descended to a narrow shelf among the cliffs. There, even though they were so distrustful as to carry weapons in their hands, they were reassured of our good will and gave evidence of affability. We distributed presents to them, and some pinole. Their excuse for remaining obstinate and refusing to come down was that they were afraid because the soldiers killed and captured people. It was explained to them that the purpose of the expedition was to advance the Kingdom of God and to make friends with them so that their souls might be saved. They replied that they all wanted to become Christians and have a mission established for them. In spite of this, it was not possible to achieve a single baptism, although there were a great many old women to whom baptism might be administered, because they would not come down from their hiding places and it was too difficult for me to go up.They told us that there were six villages above them on the river but they would not give us the names of either these villages or the chief of their own village. Such was their fear or malice. They are poor and very stupid. The village will contain about 200 souls, judging by the number we repeatedly noticed among the rocks and along the paths which run like balconies above the precipice.From here we returned to the camp. The only incident was that we ran onto one heathen, who came along with us, and some others, who escaped in the river without being detected by the soldiers, whom they misled.2414th day and 4[October]. On this day the expedition took a course a little inclined toward the northwest and at about six leagues came upon the bed of a big stream which, however, was dry. It was heavily overgrown with ash trees and wild vines. It was named the San Francisco because it was discovered on the day of that Saint. We kept on in the same direction and after a matter of nine leagues from the Arroyo of San Francisco we reached a river of great volume, already discovered (according to reports) by an expedition which was searching for a route by land to Bodega. We met on this river many very affectionate and affable heathen. For lack of an interpreter no one was baptized, since the language is totally different from the one we left behind us. According to the few words they spoke which we could understand they want a mission and want to become Christians. This river has excellent land for agriculture and grazing and has a good oak forest. In the mountains there is pine. The river is called La Pasión, a name given by the first expedition to discover it. It has also much ash, willow, torote, and wild vines.From this river the expedition turned back to the Guadalupe River, mentioned on the 12th day of the expedition (Oct. 2), where the camp was situated.2515 day and 5[October]. In the afternoon of this day about forty armed Indians suddenly appeared at the camp. They fired arrows into the air and, while skirmishing around, three of them separated from the rest, as ambassadors, carrying a flag which was a black ribbon of feathers with a red stripe in the middle. The camp was aroused, and the soldiers, with weapons in hand, prepared to receive them. The Indians, seeing that our forces and weapons were superior to their own, spoke in a more moderate tone than had been expected. In fact, they were subdued to the point of asking merely if we had come to kill them, for this was the rumor which they had received and which had caused in them all great fear. Assured by everyone that this was not possible, on account of our good will, and that our intentions were quite otherwise, one of them agreed to go and give the information to all the rest of the Indians who were waiting along the river. When he had brought the word to them, they came closer to the opposite bank but it was impossible to make any of them come as far as our position. Noting their obstinacy, we proposed that we come over to where they were. They assented, but as soon as we started on the path toward them they took flight and did not let themselves be seen again. The two who were still with us were treated with the greatest consideration and the following morning they were released.16th day and 6[October]. This day camp was lifted from the Guadalupe River and we traveled to the Dolores, mentioned on the 11th day. One part of the expedition set out for the mountains. It discovered many heathen Indians but no site for founding a mission offered itself, for the lands are poor, there is little pasturage, and the river bottom is narrow.17th day and 7[October]. This day the party crossed from the River Dolores to the Merced, mentioned on the 8th day. One section of the troops, which traveled toward the mountains, came upon many heathen at the river. It was not possible to determine the number because as soon as they saw the troops they vanished like vapor and not one could be caught because force could not be used. The remainder of the party, which set out for the plains and low foothills, encountered at the bank of the river about twenty children. Such was their preoccupation that they did not notice us until we got very close to them. They began to scream and throw themselves into the water to save themselves by flight but with such fear and haste that many of them fell down. There were some old women who acted likewise until the men came out with their weapons to defend them. We took no notice of their terror, but rather showed the greatest consideration, leaving them alone and continuing along the opposite bank to pitch camp in a fine meadow. As soon as we had dismounted seventy-nine warriors arrived in good order, attracted by the unusual occurrence, to make us a visit. They brought us seeds and fish. After making friends with us, they helped us with odd jobs and we gave them food. Finally, presents having been distributed to them, they returned to their village on the opposite side of the river.18th day and 8[October]. On the morning of this day, carrying the image of Holy Mary of Sorrows (who was our patron Saint) we started out to pay a visit to the village, on account of the attention they had paid us. We were received with great joy. They laid out their mats on the ground for us to sit down upon. This matter attended to, we set forth the reason for our coming. They replied in a very pleased manner that they all sought baptism and the establishment of a mission. I baptized six old women and one old man who were present. Most of the women had fled at our arrival, but according to the number of men the village must contain 200 souls. It is called Latelate. There is another village very close to it with substantially the same number of people called Lachio. This locality would be a good one in which to found a mission and a presidio. Its wide meadows with fine land are perfect for raising crops, grazing cattle, etc.19th day and 9[October]. In the morning of this day the expedition went to the east and, having gone eight leagues, reached a place covered with small willows, in a dry stream bed but with a few pools. This spot is situated at the foot of a hill the summit of which carries some small bush oak trees. The place is inconvenient because of its restricted pasturage. The whole trail today has been very rocky and for this reason very troublesome. About a league before reaching this spot we found a stream, also dry but with a large pool at the foot of a cliff. However, there was no firewood.20th day and 10[October]. The party followed the same course today and at about two leagues encountered a line of oaks and willows which contains the bed of a large stream. It may be very sizable in the rainy season but at present has only a few pools and patches of grass. At about five leagues in the same direction a river with two or three channels was encountered, but with water only in pools on account of the great expanse of sand. It has grass, willows, oaks, and ash. At this place we spent the night. A scouting party went into the mountains but found nothing worth noting. All the country traversed today has very poor grass and is very stony. Many pebbles are found, which are very brilliant and, from their beautiful appearance, are, or would seem to be, rock crystal. The first arroyo discovered in the morning is called Santo Domingo. That at which the camp is situated is [called] the Tecolote [owl] because of the great abundance of these birds.2621st day and 11[October]. This morning we kept on in the same direction, toward the east, and, having traveled about four leagues, we came upon an arroyo well populated with willow and some oak. It was found to be dry but had one huge pool. We called it the Santa Ana. It has low banks in that portion which trends toward the plain, or valley. We continued on the same course and after another four leagues, approximately, we reached the San Joaquin River, mentioned in the account of the 4th day of the expedition. All the country we observed between the Tecolote (mentioned yesterday) and the Santa Ana is worse than bad. From the Santa Ana to the San Joaquin there is a little pasturage, although it is sparse and spread out widely. Some other stream beds are seen but none merit consideration: they might carry some water in the winter. From the Santa Ana to the San Joaquin River the land is flat and free from stones or pebbles. The neighboring hills and the Sierra itself are covered with oaks.2722nd day and 12[October]. Today the expedition rested because it was Sunday and in order to give some rest to the horses which needed it badly.23rd day and 13[October]. In the morning of this day the party went to scout and explore the San Joaquin River. One section of the group went down the river and the other up the river toward the mountains. The latter discovered an abundance of pine and redwood but farther in the interior of the mountains, on the bank of the river they descried a village called Pizcache28of about 200 souls, with a chief named Sujoyucomu. From this chief the following information was obtained, the testimony being from eyewitnesses. Other soldiers from the other side of the mountains—who we presume were from New Mexico—appeared about twenty years ago, according to the communication of the Indian. The heathen Indians having acted in a hostile manner, the soldiers began to fight and killed many of the Indians. The latter awaited with extreme apprehension the return of the soldiers a second time, but they saw that we did not come from the other side [of the mountains] but from this side and were amazed at the kindness shown them when they expected their annihilation. He [the chief] added that on the other side of the mountains toward the north—according to the way he pointed—was the sea, and that it took them ten days to go there. He said that toward the south there was no sea but that the land continued as low hills. The soldiers who had come previously did not differ at all from our own as far as concerns horses and clothing. This Indian had been present at the skirmish with the soldiers. He supported the fact that he had seen the ocean with all kinds of signs, having been there himself. For this reason, and also because the signs made by the Indian were very clear, we concluded that New Mexico is very close to the other side of the Sierra.29In this village two old men and two old women were made Christians. In the middle of the mountain range is the source of a big river which separates into two branches, one to the other side of the range, the other being the San Joaquin. That portion of the expedition which went down the river found nothing but bad lands, with little grass and saline in places. It might be possible to found a mission on this river where there are good level areas and an abundance of timber, but it lacks firewood and grazing in this region. A cross was engraved on an oak tree at the bank of the river near the camp. This is all that could be discovered.24th day and 14[October]. Today the camp on the San Joaquin River was raised and we turned in the same direction as previously, toward the east. After traveling five leagues we came to the Kings River [Río de los Santos Reyes]30already discovered31in the preceding year of 1805. The country appeared to have moderately good pasturage, excellent in the river bottoms. All the meadows are well covered with oak, alder, cottonwood, and willow. The river abounds with beaver and fish. It is a location suitable for a mission, although there would also have to be a presidio. The land is fine for crops, etc. On this same day we came upon a small village but in it we found only two old women and one sick man. The rest of the people had gone to gather seeds. We did not stop, because the cloudy sky threatened us with rain. And indeed as soon as we had pitched camp and had thrown up a few small shelters the water poured down with great fury.25th day and 15[October]. Today the expedition could not go on because of the heavy rain and so we all remained inactive, waiting for clearing weather in order to continue with our explorations and discoveries.26th day and 16[October]. Today, the weather being better, and leaving enough men to guard the camp, we divided the party into two groups. One went up the river toward the mountains and the other followed down the river. The first group discovered a village of about 60 souls under the leadership of a chief named Achagua. Nine persons were made Christians, one old man and eight old women. All these people want a mission and wish to be baptized. Furthermore the same story was told as on the 23rd day about the coming of the soldiers and the existence of the sea. This village is called Ayquiche. In addition, word was obtained of six other villages situated on the bank of the river toward the mountains.32The other group of the party, which went down the river, discovered three villages which all together might contain 400 souls. All three are close to each other in a wide, pleasant plain along the banks of the river. In the first one visited eleven persons were made Christians, two old men and the others old women. The chief is named Chaochay. In the second village only one old woman was baptized for, although it was a large village, as soon as they spied us in the first village, the people all fled to the willow thickets. The chief of the second village is called Chayalate. In the third village ten persons were baptized, all old women.Here the chief is called Chatene. In the mountains there is pine and redwood timber. The streams make it easy to get out. All the Indian population has showed itself to be very docile and anxious to be baptized and have a mission.28th day and 18[October]. On this day a small group of soldiers was sent in search of water and grass. Having traveled some three or four leagues they found only a few pools in a great oak forest and even they were inadequate. Here it was decided to spend the following day.3329th day and 19[October]. This day the party moved toward the spot discovered yesterday. Having penetrated the oak forest a short distance, we halted at the pools previously discovered. The water was rather bad but since the day was nearly gone we were obliged to make camp until the following day. We went into a village which might contain 600 souls, where 22 persons were baptized. The chief is called Gucayte. Several other villages were encountered but all the people had disappeared at our arrival. The number of baptisms includes those of the other party.30th day and 20[October]. This day, seeing that the oak forest was full of arroyos without water, we went in search of their origin. After traveling a league we came upon a big village but all its people had hidden in the nearby willow thickets. From here we continued eastwardly and at about a league and a half we encountered another village, named Cohochs, its chief called Chumueu. We were received with much satisfaction by these poor people. All of them, after being instructed concerning God and the welfare of their souls, want to be baptized and have a mission. Following the direction of the mountains we came upon a fine river, already discovered by the other expedition made at the end of April in this same year. The great extent of sand which it has is damaging in its effect, for only at the time of the melting of the snow or in the rainy season does water fill copiously all the stream beds in the oak forest. Nevertheless it would be easy to get water if a mission were established. For this oak forest, which contains about 3,000 souls34who want baptism and a mission, is the place most suitable for a mission of all that we have explored. There are fine lands for cultivation and great meadows in many parts of the oak forest which are green all the time. There are also good spots of saltpeter and alkali. The river is known as the San Gabriel. It divides into two branches, one of which we called the San Miguel, and the latter sends its water into several other branches. This mission, in case the King, our Lord, whom God protect, grants its establishment, could have available pine and redwood timber and fine lands for crops. After having explored all this area, we returned to the camp.31st day and 21[October]. Today a scouting party went to the east and found a river already discovered by the expedition of the month of April, already mentioned. It was called the San Pedro.35Because that portion which was examined was found to be without water we were forced to move the camp to the village of 600 souls mentioned above, called Telame, where water was scarce but good pasturage was obtainable. Here we pitched camp.32nd day and 22[October]. Today, having explored all the points of interest and villages of the oak forest the expedition remained at rest, meanwhile waiting for supplies which were to come from Mission San Miguel.33rd day and 23[October]. On the morning of this day I, together with the Commander, Don Gabriel Moraga, went to the aforementioned village of Telame. We had the luck to find there a little girl, who was wasted away and at the point of death. Her parents, as soon as I showed them the benefit which would come to their daughter when she died, gave her to me so that she might be baptized. And in fact I did baptize her, the parents being very happy with her good fortune, and we being pleased with having gained another soul. During the days which we spent at this place all the Indians showed themselves very much satisfied with having us in their midst, even to the extent of pointing out to us a spot appropriate for the establishment or foundation of a mission. All the people of the villages, even though on our arrival they had hidden themselves, came to visit us, bringing their small possessions and feeling insulted if they were not accepted.34th day and 24[October]. Today there is nothing in particular to note, other than that we received the provisions early in the evening.35th day and 25[October]. In the morning of this day the provisions were distributed to the troops and in the afternoon we set out. We traveled to the east, being guided by two heathen Indians, and at about two leagues we turned to the west. In another two leagues we came upon a very copious spring. This water is reached by taking a big stream bed, which is encountered to the east of the village, and following it to the west for about four leagues. At this point the water is discovered in the arroyo itself. We suppose that the water is the River San Gabriel, which has percolated through the immense stretches of sand along it. This place has much grass but the land is alkaline in most parts.36th day and 26[October]. In the afternoon of this day the camp was raised and we crossed over to where an oak park runs along the course of the San Pedro River, discovered by the expedition of last April, in 1806. We traveled about eight leagues, four of them in front of the oak forest and the other four into the forest toward the east. For we found the river to be without water on account of the extremely thick growth of willow, cottonwood, torote, and ash, together with the great quantity of sand. Following the river bed toward the mountains one encounters water quite sufficient for the foundation of a mission. This is a river with fine water, excellent lands for crops, pasturage, etc. There is much timber in the mountains, pine and redwood.3637th day and 27[October]. In the morning of this day, continuing upstream for a league, we came upon a small village which was part of another large one called Coyehete. The latter according to the information given by the Indians will have 400 people. There was no one in this village who could be baptized, because, although they wanted baptism and begged for a mission, they were all young people. From this village we took an easterly course and at about a league from the river we came upon an arroyo which we called San Cayetano, discovered at the same time as the river described previously.37It was found to be dry, but has many large pools capable of supporting a great number of cattle. This stream is bordered by an abundance of trees, willows and some oaks, but the land is poor.Continuing in the same easterly direction we reached after four leagues of travel another stream, large in the rainy season, but at present dry.38It has a few willow trees. From this stream we followed a ravine without leaving it for most of the day, for it is very long, and at sunset reached a big creek bed with considerable willow and an immense area of sand.39It now being very late, we made every effort to find water but were unable to do so. For this reason we began to dig and, having gone down about two yards, we finally found enough for the troops, although it was bad. The horses, which were quite thirsty, had not drunk since morning and were forced to abstainuntil we should arrive at a river of great volume that had been found earlier this year by an expedition from the presidio of Santa Barbara. This we were going to search for. We spent the night in this valley with no other matter worth noting than that it was very cold.38th day and 28[October]. Very early in the morning the party set forth and having gone about three leagues encountered the river discovered by the expedition from Santa Barbara and mentioned yesterday.40It is very full of water, even in the dry season. All the country which we have seen today is the most miserable noted in the entire expedition. Some brush and a large quantity of ground-squirrel holes is all the land contains. There is no green grass and even at the river all we found was willow thickets and saline and alkali flats. Going down the river in search of pasturage we discovered the traces of horses from the Santa Barbara expedition. After traveling a very long way we were obliged to stop, although there was great scarcity of pasturage in the enormous willow thickets along the river. This is the tree which most abounds, together with considerable cottonwood.39th day and 29[October]. Today, while searching for pasturage, we moved the camp about three leagues farther downstream and one league distant from the river. Here, although there was much saltpeter and underbrush, the country was well covered with grass. One group scouted to the end of the plain at the edge of the mountains and found nothing but salt and alkali and very poor land.40th day and 30[October]. Today everyone stayed quietly in camp in order to give some rest to the horses which were badly exhausted.41st day and 31[October]. Today we traveled south to find a sheltered spot in the mountains and to reach the line of exit to be taken by the expedition. On the way we found a village, about three leagues from the encampment. At this point we separated the most badly worn-out horses so that they might go by another road to a place where they could sooner recuperate. Nothing is said about this or the other village which we saw on the river because it is to be supposed that the Santa Barbara expedition will give a complete account of them. Just before sunset we came to the sheltered place mentioned above. We found it to have an abundance of running water in a little creek and many wild grapevines, these being almost the entire vegetation. Here we spent the night although there was a lack of grass for the horses.4142nd day and 1[November]. Today we set out from this oasis and after about two leagues we found the source of the stream. It is a marsh well covered with grass. The open area may be entered by a valley filled with oak trees. At the end of it one sees a lake which, however, is pure salt water. To the east is located a moderate-sized village, the Indians of which seemed to us altogether too cunning and crafty in trading. Guided by three Indians from this village we came to another of the same size but hidden among ravines and badlands. The number of inhabitants could not be determined because they were absent at a fiesta in another village near by. From here we set out in an easterly direction and late in the afternoon, at sunset, we reached a plain extending toward a valley which contained a small stream. The latter carried a little water, which was quite salty due to the great salinity of the land.43rd day and last of the expedition. On this day, by following the valley, we reached the ranch of the Reverend Fathers of Mission San Fernando. The roughness of the mountains we went through this day is indescribable, but it pleased God that in the early evening we should see a light and by going toward it came upon the ranch. From here the following day we came to the mission.42All that has been stated in this report represents exactly what I have seen myself. Together with a few others baptized on the expedition made at the end of April of this year 1806 we baptized on this expedition 141 persons. These were all baptizedin extremis.In witness hereof I signed on 2 November 1806.Fray Pedro MuñozVillagesNumber of villages scouted on this expedition and Christians made, together with those made on the expedition carried out in the last part of April of this year, 1806. The number of persons is given.NupchencheThis village has about 250 souls. Twenty-eight Christians were made, 5 old men and 23 old women.28ChineguisHas the same number of people as the previous one. A single old woman was baptized.1YunateAccording to a good calculation this village has the same number of persons as those preceding. One old man was baptized.1ChamuasiHas the same number of persons as those mentioned above. No one was baptized because everyone hid himself at our arrival.LatelateThis village will have about 200 people. I baptized six old women.6LachuoIs of the same size as the previous village. The same thing happened as at the village of Chamuasi, for which reason there was no one to whom Holy Baptism might be administered.PizcacheThis village may contain about 200 people. Four were baptized, two old men and two old women.4AycaycheThis village will have about 60 souls. Nine were made Christians, one old man and 8 old women.9Here there are six other villages which could not be investigated. All of them, according to the reports of the inhabitants of this village are of about the same size as Pizcache.EcsaaThis village has about 100 souls. Fourteen were baptized, 2 men and 12 women, all old, and one of the womenin articulo mortis.14ChiajaHas the same number as the previous village. One old woman baptized.1XayuaseWill have 100 souls, like the preceding. Nine old women were baptized.9CapatauThis is a very small village and subject to the chief of the previous village. It will have 9 or 10 people. One old woman was baptized.1Hualo, VualThis village will have about 400 souls. Two old women were baptized. Discovered on the first expedition.2TuntacheThis village will have 250 souls. One sick old man was baptized.1Notonto 1stEight old women and two dying children were baptized in this village on the first expedition. The two children were later found to have died. This village will have about 300 souls.10Notonto 2ndWill have 100 souls. Two old women were baptized.2Telame firstThis is the largest of all the villages which have been discovered. It will have, according to a fast count, 600 souls. It was entered by the first expedition and 11 old women and 1 sick man were baptized. He was found by this expedition to have died. On this expedition, the second one, 8 old women were baptized, together with 1 old man and 1 moribund infant. In all there are twenty-two.22Telame secondIt will have 200 souls. (This village was not seen by the other expedition.) I baptized 6 old women.6UholasiThis village will have 100 souls. It was discovered on the first expedition. I baptized 3 old women.[3]EagueaThis village has about 300 souls and was discovered on the first expedition. Ten were baptized, 9 old women and 1 dying man. We found on this expedition that he had died.10CohochsWill have 100 souls. Eleven old women were baptized.11ChoynoqueThis is a village of 300 souls. No one was baptized for their terror caused them to flee. However, the warriors who were visible gave us reason to estimate their total number as 300 souls.CutuchoThis village is close to that called Nupchenche. It will have 400 souls. It was scouted by the first expedition. No one was baptized for everyone had fled.TahualamneThis village will have 200 souls. No one was baptized because their fear did not permit them to come down from their rocky village as is described on the 13th day of this account.The total baptisms performed on the two expeditions amount to141CoyeheteThis is a village of about 400 souls according to the report of the Indians. We did not see it. In addition there are a great many villages which I do not mention because I did not examine them.Fray Pedro MuñozREMINISCENCES OF MEXICAN PIONEERSThe two following selections are taken from reminiscences of old Mexican pioneers, obtained by Alexander S. Taylor in the early 1860’s. The first was published in an unidentified newspaper; the second is handwritten. Both purport to relate experiences of expeditions carried out in 1806 or 1807 (except the Ortega sortie of 1815 described by Olivera). The Olivera account follows the report of Moraga’s 1806 expedition in a general way but departs from the diary of Muñoz in many details. It is likely that the narrator was confusing this with other campaigns in which he was engaged. At any event little reliance should be placed upon his statements.Both accounts give a lively picture of conditions in the valley at this period, and for such unofficial detail they are of some value.Diego Olivera’s Account of Moraga’s 1806 ExpeditionThis account is given in a clipping from an unspecified newspaper, presumably of 1864. The piece has no title. It is included in Alexander S. Taylor’s collection, Discoverers, Founders and Pioneers of California (2:153).My father, said he [i.e., Olivera],... was one of a company of sixty mounted men under the Alferez Gabriel Moraga, accompanied by the Padre Muñoz for chaplain, who left Monterey in August, 1806 ... and crossed over into the Tulares by the way of San Juan Bautista.... We traversed the whole of the country from where the San Joaquin comes out of the Sierra Nevada to a long way up north along the Sacramento River and found multitudes of Indians everywhere along the streams.43We passed fifteen days at one camp on the Sacramento, whence we made trips up into the snowy mountains.... We were obliged to encounter great dangers in this trip and did not get back till November after being out over a hundred days,44for, from the melting of the snows and the overflowing of the rivers and not knowing our whereabouts, we had to keep well on the lower hills and creep along by the eastern trail the best way we could until we found ourselves near the King’s River and the Big Lakes,45and picked our way among great numbers of Indian rancherias, until we came to the passes called the Tejon and Las Ulvas, and so made our exit at the Mission of San Fernando....There was also another expedition from Santa Barbara in the fall of 1815, which went over into the Tulares, where they met another party from Monterey who had come through the Estrella from San Miguel. That was commanded by Captain Juan Ortega, when Don Pablo Vicente de Sola was Governor. I was also along with it, but we did nothing particular, excepting to bring in a great many Indians for the reverend Padres to make Christians of. Thepobre infeliceslived like so many brutes indirt and filth, and were always fighting each other like so many wild cats and dogs,muymestanjes. The girls among them used to run after the soldiers—pobrecitas—and the people gave us the orphan children, and in this way many of their souls were saved who would otherwise have been lost with thediablos.Felipe Santiago García’s Account of Moraga’s 1807 ExpeditionPertinent passages have been selected from a manuscript entitled “Story of an Old Dragoon of Monterey,” in Alexander Taylor’s Discoverers, Founders and Pioneers of California (2:141-151).
We came upon two villages, but all the people had retreated to the mountains on account of the fear that beset them as soon as they detected our approach. In one of the villages we met an old woman who was not able to flee because she was completely incapacitated by age. As soon as we were able to approach her, she gathered strength in her decrepit bones and plunged into the river with a splash. One of the neophytes among the camp followers was forced to pull off his clothes in a great hurry and pull her out in spite of her attempt to surrender to the fury of the rough waves rather than come to us, even though we showed the greatest friendliness. Finally, having extricated her, we managed to calm her fright, by virtue of the kind treatment we gave her in accordance with our existing situation. As soon as she seemed to me to feel better I began to instruct her, setting before her the Kingdom of God and giving her as adequate a lesson as was permitted by the shortness of the time. I baptized her, she giving very clear evidence of the joy which filled her heart. Afterward, thoroughly exhausted, she was given a safe conduct, but even after she understood the meaning of this, she preferred to stay with us.19
10th day and 30[September]. On this day one portion of the party went to the northwest and discovered another river similar to the Merced in its copious and Christian flow of water. But its banks are closer together. Another group went to the east, up the river. It found many heathen, without doubt from the five villages about which we had been given notice. At noon some heathen were seen among the willows along the river. They were hailed in the most friendly manner possible, but they showed themselves to be timid and did not dare to come out of their hiding places. Finally, convinced of our good faith and good intentions, three of them arrived at our camp. They were given something to eat and afterward a few presents were distributed among them, and then they were able to breathe freely. Then I told them how pleased I would be if they called their companions, and indeed they did so. In a short while they brought up to thirty persons, saying at the same time that the others were very much afraid and because of this did not wish to come. They entered the camp in this manner: on leaving the willow thicket along the river they laid down their weapons under a leafy oak tree and then in good order took the path to the encampment two by two, one of them in advance crying out in a loud voice. According to the interpreter, all he said consisted of a prayer for our friendship and of a demonstration of his good will. To this end it was decided to give them some food, and thereafter they went off very well content. They asked for a mission and baptism, after having been advised of the excellency of God and the benefit which would accrue to their souls. The Merced River is covered with wild vines and the Indians are bald and rather stupid. At this spot a cross was raised, which concluded the day.
11th day and 1[October]. On this day the expedition continued in the same direction, toward the northwest, in search of the river discovered yesterday.20Having traveled about seven or eight leagues we reached it. It is a big river, as previously written while we were on the Merced. Its banks are close together and it provides only small meadows and a shortage of pasturage, because of the saline soil. We named this river Our Lady of Sorrows [Dolores] on account of its’ having been discovered on Her day in September. No heathen Indians were found on the river but we did see signs of several villages. No doubt those from the previous river [Merced] had brought them word, as a result of which they had taken flight. This was confirmed by the wide, heavily used trails which were encountered.
12th day and 2[October]. In the morning we continued in the same direction as the day before and at about a league we came upon a dry creek bed full of sand but no water.21It could be a large river in the season of the rains or the melting snow. It has no border of oaks along its banks and few willows.
From this creek we perceived at a short distance an oak forest lying in the same direction, and after going about two leagues we entered it. According to the way it appeared to us it was without end but actually it reaches about four leagues in width. Its length we could not determine, for it is very extensive. There are in this forest various kinds of oak and live oak. The grass is very sparse because the soil is very poor. After going into the woods about a league and a half we came upon a river similar to the preceding ones in size and clearness of the water, although its bed is narrower than the others.22The banks are covered with an infinity of wild grapevines, a little torote, and an abundance of ash trees. We pitched camp on this river, so as to use it as a base for further exploration. The river we named Our Lady of Guadalupe.
13th day and 3[October]. In the morning the expedition went to the east along the margin of the river and, having traveled about six leagues, we came upon a village called Taulamne.23This village is situated on some steep cliffs, inaccessible because of theirrough rocks. The Indians live in caves; they climb and descend by a feeble pole held by one of them while he who is descending slides down. It was impossible for us to get them to come down to a little flat spot beside the stream where we had assembled near a pool formed by the river. Tired of promising them everything they wanted and seeing that they still persisted in their negative attitude, we determined to ascend on foot to where they were. We asked their permission to do so. This having been obtained we began to climb but it was not possible for us to reach the point where they were. As a result some twelve or fifteen of them descended to a narrow shelf among the cliffs. There, even though they were so distrustful as to carry weapons in their hands, they were reassured of our good will and gave evidence of affability. We distributed presents to them, and some pinole. Their excuse for remaining obstinate and refusing to come down was that they were afraid because the soldiers killed and captured people. It was explained to them that the purpose of the expedition was to advance the Kingdom of God and to make friends with them so that their souls might be saved. They replied that they all wanted to become Christians and have a mission established for them. In spite of this, it was not possible to achieve a single baptism, although there were a great many old women to whom baptism might be administered, because they would not come down from their hiding places and it was too difficult for me to go up.
They told us that there were six villages above them on the river but they would not give us the names of either these villages or the chief of their own village. Such was their fear or malice. They are poor and very stupid. The village will contain about 200 souls, judging by the number we repeatedly noticed among the rocks and along the paths which run like balconies above the precipice.
From here we returned to the camp. The only incident was that we ran onto one heathen, who came along with us, and some others, who escaped in the river without being detected by the soldiers, whom they misled.24
14th day and 4[October]. On this day the expedition took a course a little inclined toward the northwest and at about six leagues came upon the bed of a big stream which, however, was dry. It was heavily overgrown with ash trees and wild vines. It was named the San Francisco because it was discovered on the day of that Saint. We kept on in the same direction and after a matter of nine leagues from the Arroyo of San Francisco we reached a river of great volume, already discovered (according to reports) by an expedition which was searching for a route by land to Bodega. We met on this river many very affectionate and affable heathen. For lack of an interpreter no one was baptized, since the language is totally different from the one we left behind us. According to the few words they spoke which we could understand they want a mission and want to become Christians. This river has excellent land for agriculture and grazing and has a good oak forest. In the mountains there is pine. The river is called La Pasión, a name given by the first expedition to discover it. It has also much ash, willow, torote, and wild vines.
From this river the expedition turned back to the Guadalupe River, mentioned on the 12th day of the expedition (Oct. 2), where the camp was situated.25
15 day and 5[October]. In the afternoon of this day about forty armed Indians suddenly appeared at the camp. They fired arrows into the air and, while skirmishing around, three of them separated from the rest, as ambassadors, carrying a flag which was a black ribbon of feathers with a red stripe in the middle. The camp was aroused, and the soldiers, with weapons in hand, prepared to receive them. The Indians, seeing that our forces and weapons were superior to their own, spoke in a more moderate tone than had been expected. In fact, they were subdued to the point of asking merely if we had come to kill them, for this was the rumor which they had received and which had caused in them all great fear. Assured by everyone that this was not possible, on account of our good will, and that our intentions were quite otherwise, one of them agreed to go and give the information to all the rest of the Indians who were waiting along the river. When he had brought the word to them, they came closer to the opposite bank but it was impossible to make any of them come as far as our position. Noting their obstinacy, we proposed that we come over to where they were. They assented, but as soon as we started on the path toward them they took flight and did not let themselves be seen again. The two who were still with us were treated with the greatest consideration and the following morning they were released.
16th day and 6[October]. This day camp was lifted from the Guadalupe River and we traveled to the Dolores, mentioned on the 11th day. One part of the expedition set out for the mountains. It discovered many heathen Indians but no site for founding a mission offered itself, for the lands are poor, there is little pasturage, and the river bottom is narrow.
17th day and 7[October]. This day the party crossed from the River Dolores to the Merced, mentioned on the 8th day. One section of the troops, which traveled toward the mountains, came upon many heathen at the river. It was not possible to determine the number because as soon as they saw the troops they vanished like vapor and not one could be caught because force could not be used. The remainder of the party, which set out for the plains and low foothills, encountered at the bank of the river about twenty children. Such was their preoccupation that they did not notice us until we got very close to them. They began to scream and throw themselves into the water to save themselves by flight but with such fear and haste that many of them fell down. There were some old women who acted likewise until the men came out with their weapons to defend them. We took no notice of their terror, but rather showed the greatest consideration, leaving them alone and continuing along the opposite bank to pitch camp in a fine meadow. As soon as we had dismounted seventy-nine warriors arrived in good order, attracted by the unusual occurrence, to make us a visit. They brought us seeds and fish. After making friends with us, they helped us with odd jobs and we gave them food. Finally, presents having been distributed to them, they returned to their village on the opposite side of the river.
18th day and 8[October]. On the morning of this day, carrying the image of Holy Mary of Sorrows (who was our patron Saint) we started out to pay a visit to the village, on account of the attention they had paid us. We were received with great joy. They laid out their mats on the ground for us to sit down upon. This matter attended to, we set forth the reason for our coming. They replied in a very pleased manner that they all sought baptism and the establishment of a mission. I baptized six old women and one old man who were present. Most of the women had fled at our arrival, but according to the number of men the village must contain 200 souls. It is called Latelate. There is another village very close to it with substantially the same number of people called Lachio. This locality would be a good one in which to found a mission and a presidio. Its wide meadows with fine land are perfect for raising crops, grazing cattle, etc.
19th day and 9[October]. In the morning of this day the expedition went to the east and, having gone eight leagues, reached a place covered with small willows, in a dry stream bed but with a few pools. This spot is situated at the foot of a hill the summit of which carries some small bush oak trees. The place is inconvenient because of its restricted pasturage. The whole trail today has been very rocky and for this reason very troublesome. About a league before reaching this spot we found a stream, also dry but with a large pool at the foot of a cliff. However, there was no firewood.
20th day and 10[October]. The party followed the same course today and at about two leagues encountered a line of oaks and willows which contains the bed of a large stream. It may be very sizable in the rainy season but at present has only a few pools and patches of grass. At about five leagues in the same direction a river with two or three channels was encountered, but with water only in pools on account of the great expanse of sand. It has grass, willows, oaks, and ash. At this place we spent the night. A scouting party went into the mountains but found nothing worth noting. All the country traversed today has very poor grass and is very stony. Many pebbles are found, which are very brilliant and, from their beautiful appearance, are, or would seem to be, rock crystal. The first arroyo discovered in the morning is called Santo Domingo. That at which the camp is situated is [called] the Tecolote [owl] because of the great abundance of these birds.26
21st day and 11[October]. This morning we kept on in the same direction, toward the east, and, having traveled about four leagues, we came upon an arroyo well populated with willow and some oak. It was found to be dry but had one huge pool. We called it the Santa Ana. It has low banks in that portion which trends toward the plain, or valley. We continued on the same course and after another four leagues, approximately, we reached the San Joaquin River, mentioned in the account of the 4th day of the expedition. All the country we observed between the Tecolote (mentioned yesterday) and the Santa Ana is worse than bad. From the Santa Ana to the San Joaquin there is a little pasturage, although it is sparse and spread out widely. Some other stream beds are seen but none merit consideration: they might carry some water in the winter. From the Santa Ana to the San Joaquin River the land is flat and free from stones or pebbles. The neighboring hills and the Sierra itself are covered with oaks.27
22nd day and 12[October]. Today the expedition rested because it was Sunday and in order to give some rest to the horses which needed it badly.
23rd day and 13[October]. In the morning of this day the party went to scout and explore the San Joaquin River. One section of the group went down the river and the other up the river toward the mountains. The latter discovered an abundance of pine and redwood but farther in the interior of the mountains, on the bank of the river they descried a village called Pizcache28of about 200 souls, with a chief named Sujoyucomu. From this chief the following information was obtained, the testimony being from eyewitnesses. Other soldiers from the other side of the mountains—who we presume were from New Mexico—appeared about twenty years ago, according to the communication of the Indian. The heathen Indians having acted in a hostile manner, the soldiers began to fight and killed many of the Indians. The latter awaited with extreme apprehension the return of the soldiers a second time, but they saw that we did not come from the other side [of the mountains] but from this side and were amazed at the kindness shown them when they expected their annihilation. He [the chief] added that on the other side of the mountains toward the north—according to the way he pointed—was the sea, and that it took them ten days to go there. He said that toward the south there was no sea but that the land continued as low hills. The soldiers who had come previously did not differ at all from our own as far as concerns horses and clothing. This Indian had been present at the skirmish with the soldiers. He supported the fact that he had seen the ocean with all kinds of signs, having been there himself. For this reason, and also because the signs made by the Indian were very clear, we concluded that New Mexico is very close to the other side of the Sierra.29
In this village two old men and two old women were made Christians. In the middle of the mountain range is the source of a big river which separates into two branches, one to the other side of the range, the other being the San Joaquin. That portion of the expedition which went down the river found nothing but bad lands, with little grass and saline in places. It might be possible to found a mission on this river where there are good level areas and an abundance of timber, but it lacks firewood and grazing in this region. A cross was engraved on an oak tree at the bank of the river near the camp. This is all that could be discovered.
24th day and 14[October]. Today the camp on the San Joaquin River was raised and we turned in the same direction as previously, toward the east. After traveling five leagues we came to the Kings River [Río de los Santos Reyes]30already discovered31in the preceding year of 1805. The country appeared to have moderately good pasturage, excellent in the river bottoms. All the meadows are well covered with oak, alder, cottonwood, and willow. The river abounds with beaver and fish. It is a location suitable for a mission, although there would also have to be a presidio. The land is fine for crops, etc. On this same day we came upon a small village but in it we found only two old women and one sick man. The rest of the people had gone to gather seeds. We did not stop, because the cloudy sky threatened us with rain. And indeed as soon as we had pitched camp and had thrown up a few small shelters the water poured down with great fury.
25th day and 15[October]. Today the expedition could not go on because of the heavy rain and so we all remained inactive, waiting for clearing weather in order to continue with our explorations and discoveries.
26th day and 16[October]. Today, the weather being better, and leaving enough men to guard the camp, we divided the party into two groups. One went up the river toward the mountains and the other followed down the river. The first group discovered a village of about 60 souls under the leadership of a chief named Achagua. Nine persons were made Christians, one old man and eight old women. All these people want a mission and wish to be baptized. Furthermore the same story was told as on the 23rd day about the coming of the soldiers and the existence of the sea. This village is called Ayquiche. In addition, word was obtained of six other villages situated on the bank of the river toward the mountains.32
The other group of the party, which went down the river, discovered three villages which all together might contain 400 souls. All three are close to each other in a wide, pleasant plain along the banks of the river. In the first one visited eleven persons were made Christians, two old men and the others old women. The chief is named Chaochay. In the second village only one old woman was baptized for, although it was a large village, as soon as they spied us in the first village, the people all fled to the willow thickets. The chief of the second village is called Chayalate. In the third village ten persons were baptized, all old women.Here the chief is called Chatene. In the mountains there is pine and redwood timber. The streams make it easy to get out. All the Indian population has showed itself to be very docile and anxious to be baptized and have a mission.
28th day and 18[October]. On this day a small group of soldiers was sent in search of water and grass. Having traveled some three or four leagues they found only a few pools in a great oak forest and even they were inadequate. Here it was decided to spend the following day.33
29th day and 19[October]. This day the party moved toward the spot discovered yesterday. Having penetrated the oak forest a short distance, we halted at the pools previously discovered. The water was rather bad but since the day was nearly gone we were obliged to make camp until the following day. We went into a village which might contain 600 souls, where 22 persons were baptized. The chief is called Gucayte. Several other villages were encountered but all the people had disappeared at our arrival. The number of baptisms includes those of the other party.
30th day and 20[October]. This day, seeing that the oak forest was full of arroyos without water, we went in search of their origin. After traveling a league we came upon a big village but all its people had hidden in the nearby willow thickets. From here we continued eastwardly and at about a league and a half we encountered another village, named Cohochs, its chief called Chumueu. We were received with much satisfaction by these poor people. All of them, after being instructed concerning God and the welfare of their souls, want to be baptized and have a mission. Following the direction of the mountains we came upon a fine river, already discovered by the other expedition made at the end of April in this same year. The great extent of sand which it has is damaging in its effect, for only at the time of the melting of the snow or in the rainy season does water fill copiously all the stream beds in the oak forest. Nevertheless it would be easy to get water if a mission were established. For this oak forest, which contains about 3,000 souls34who want baptism and a mission, is the place most suitable for a mission of all that we have explored. There are fine lands for cultivation and great meadows in many parts of the oak forest which are green all the time. There are also good spots of saltpeter and alkali. The river is known as the San Gabriel. It divides into two branches, one of which we called the San Miguel, and the latter sends its water into several other branches. This mission, in case the King, our Lord, whom God protect, grants its establishment, could have available pine and redwood timber and fine lands for crops. After having explored all this area, we returned to the camp.
31st day and 21[October]. Today a scouting party went to the east and found a river already discovered by the expedition of the month of April, already mentioned. It was called the San Pedro.35Because that portion which was examined was found to be without water we were forced to move the camp to the village of 600 souls mentioned above, called Telame, where water was scarce but good pasturage was obtainable. Here we pitched camp.
32nd day and 22[October]. Today, having explored all the points of interest and villages of the oak forest the expedition remained at rest, meanwhile waiting for supplies which were to come from Mission San Miguel.
33rd day and 23[October]. On the morning of this day I, together with the Commander, Don Gabriel Moraga, went to the aforementioned village of Telame. We had the luck to find there a little girl, who was wasted away and at the point of death. Her parents, as soon as I showed them the benefit which would come to their daughter when she died, gave her to me so that she might be baptized. And in fact I did baptize her, the parents being very happy with her good fortune, and we being pleased with having gained another soul. During the days which we spent at this place all the Indians showed themselves very much satisfied with having us in their midst, even to the extent of pointing out to us a spot appropriate for the establishment or foundation of a mission. All the people of the villages, even though on our arrival they had hidden themselves, came to visit us, bringing their small possessions and feeling insulted if they were not accepted.
34th day and 24[October]. Today there is nothing in particular to note, other than that we received the provisions early in the evening.
35th day and 25[October]. In the morning of this day the provisions were distributed to the troops and in the afternoon we set out. We traveled to the east, being guided by two heathen Indians, and at about two leagues we turned to the west. In another two leagues we came upon a very copious spring. This water is reached by taking a big stream bed, which is encountered to the east of the village, and following it to the west for about four leagues. At this point the water is discovered in the arroyo itself. We suppose that the water is the River San Gabriel, which has percolated through the immense stretches of sand along it. This place has much grass but the land is alkaline in most parts.
36th day and 26[October]. In the afternoon of this day the camp was raised and we crossed over to where an oak park runs along the course of the San Pedro River, discovered by the expedition of last April, in 1806. We traveled about eight leagues, four of them in front of the oak forest and the other four into the forest toward the east. For we found the river to be without water on account of the extremely thick growth of willow, cottonwood, torote, and ash, together with the great quantity of sand. Following the river bed toward the mountains one encounters water quite sufficient for the foundation of a mission. This is a river with fine water, excellent lands for crops, pasturage, etc. There is much timber in the mountains, pine and redwood.36
37th day and 27[October]. In the morning of this day, continuing upstream for a league, we came upon a small village which was part of another large one called Coyehete. The latter according to the information given by the Indians will have 400 people. There was no one in this village who could be baptized, because, although they wanted baptism and begged for a mission, they were all young people. From this village we took an easterly course and at about a league from the river we came upon an arroyo which we called San Cayetano, discovered at the same time as the river described previously.37It was found to be dry, but has many large pools capable of supporting a great number of cattle. This stream is bordered by an abundance of trees, willows and some oaks, but the land is poor.
Continuing in the same easterly direction we reached after four leagues of travel another stream, large in the rainy season, but at present dry.38It has a few willow trees. From this stream we followed a ravine without leaving it for most of the day, for it is very long, and at sunset reached a big creek bed with considerable willow and an immense area of sand.39It now being very late, we made every effort to find water but were unable to do so. For this reason we began to dig and, having gone down about two yards, we finally found enough for the troops, although it was bad. The horses, which were quite thirsty, had not drunk since morning and were forced to abstainuntil we should arrive at a river of great volume that had been found earlier this year by an expedition from the presidio of Santa Barbara. This we were going to search for. We spent the night in this valley with no other matter worth noting than that it was very cold.
38th day and 28[October]. Very early in the morning the party set forth and having gone about three leagues encountered the river discovered by the expedition from Santa Barbara and mentioned yesterday.40It is very full of water, even in the dry season. All the country which we have seen today is the most miserable noted in the entire expedition. Some brush and a large quantity of ground-squirrel holes is all the land contains. There is no green grass and even at the river all we found was willow thickets and saline and alkali flats. Going down the river in search of pasturage we discovered the traces of horses from the Santa Barbara expedition. After traveling a very long way we were obliged to stop, although there was great scarcity of pasturage in the enormous willow thickets along the river. This is the tree which most abounds, together with considerable cottonwood.
39th day and 29[October]. Today, while searching for pasturage, we moved the camp about three leagues farther downstream and one league distant from the river. Here, although there was much saltpeter and underbrush, the country was well covered with grass. One group scouted to the end of the plain at the edge of the mountains and found nothing but salt and alkali and very poor land.
40th day and 30[October]. Today everyone stayed quietly in camp in order to give some rest to the horses which were badly exhausted.
41st day and 31[October]. Today we traveled south to find a sheltered spot in the mountains and to reach the line of exit to be taken by the expedition. On the way we found a village, about three leagues from the encampment. At this point we separated the most badly worn-out horses so that they might go by another road to a place where they could sooner recuperate. Nothing is said about this or the other village which we saw on the river because it is to be supposed that the Santa Barbara expedition will give a complete account of them. Just before sunset we came to the sheltered place mentioned above. We found it to have an abundance of running water in a little creek and many wild grapevines, these being almost the entire vegetation. Here we spent the night although there was a lack of grass for the horses.41
42nd day and 1[November]. Today we set out from this oasis and after about two leagues we found the source of the stream. It is a marsh well covered with grass. The open area may be entered by a valley filled with oak trees. At the end of it one sees a lake which, however, is pure salt water. To the east is located a moderate-sized village, the Indians of which seemed to us altogether too cunning and crafty in trading. Guided by three Indians from this village we came to another of the same size but hidden among ravines and badlands. The number of inhabitants could not be determined because they were absent at a fiesta in another village near by. From here we set out in an easterly direction and late in the afternoon, at sunset, we reached a plain extending toward a valley which contained a small stream. The latter carried a little water, which was quite salty due to the great salinity of the land.
43rd day and last of the expedition. On this day, by following the valley, we reached the ranch of the Reverend Fathers of Mission San Fernando. The roughness of the mountains we went through this day is indescribable, but it pleased God that in the early evening we should see a light and by going toward it came upon the ranch. From here the following day we came to the mission.42
All that has been stated in this report represents exactly what I have seen myself. Together with a few others baptized on the expedition made at the end of April of this year 1806 we baptized on this expedition 141 persons. These were all baptizedin extremis.
In witness hereof I signed on 2 November 1806.
Fray Pedro Muñoz
Villages
Number of villages scouted on this expedition and Christians made, together with those made on the expedition carried out in the last part of April of this year, 1806. The number of persons is given.
NupchencheThis village has about 250 souls. Twenty-eight Christians were made, 5 old men and 23 old women.28ChineguisHas the same number of people as the previous one. A single old woman was baptized.1YunateAccording to a good calculation this village has the same number of persons as those preceding. One old man was baptized.1ChamuasiHas the same number of persons as those mentioned above. No one was baptized because everyone hid himself at our arrival.LatelateThis village will have about 200 people. I baptized six old women.6LachuoIs of the same size as the previous village. The same thing happened as at the village of Chamuasi, for which reason there was no one to whom Holy Baptism might be administered.PizcacheThis village may contain about 200 people. Four were baptized, two old men and two old women.4AycaycheThis village will have about 60 souls. Nine were made Christians, one old man and 8 old women.9Here there are six other villages which could not be investigated. All of them, according to the reports of the inhabitants of this village are of about the same size as Pizcache.EcsaaThis village has about 100 souls. Fourteen were baptized, 2 men and 12 women, all old, and one of the womenin articulo mortis.14ChiajaHas the same number as the previous village. One old woman baptized.1XayuaseWill have 100 souls, like the preceding. Nine old women were baptized.9CapatauThis is a very small village and subject to the chief of the previous village. It will have 9 or 10 people. One old woman was baptized.1Hualo, VualThis village will have about 400 souls. Two old women were baptized. Discovered on the first expedition.2TuntacheThis village will have 250 souls. One sick old man was baptized.1Notonto 1stEight old women and two dying children were baptized in this village on the first expedition. The two children were later found to have died. This village will have about 300 souls.10Notonto 2ndWill have 100 souls. Two old women were baptized.2Telame firstThis is the largest of all the villages which have been discovered. It will have, according to a fast count, 600 souls. It was entered by the first expedition and 11 old women and 1 sick man were baptized. He was found by this expedition to have died. On this expedition, the second one, 8 old women were baptized, together with 1 old man and 1 moribund infant. In all there are twenty-two.22Telame secondIt will have 200 souls. (This village was not seen by the other expedition.) I baptized 6 old women.6UholasiThis village will have 100 souls. It was discovered on the first expedition. I baptized 3 old women.[3]EagueaThis village has about 300 souls and was discovered on the first expedition. Ten were baptized, 9 old women and 1 dying man. We found on this expedition that he had died.10CohochsWill have 100 souls. Eleven old women were baptized.11ChoynoqueThis is a village of 300 souls. No one was baptized for their terror caused them to flee. However, the warriors who were visible gave us reason to estimate their total number as 300 souls.CutuchoThis village is close to that called Nupchenche. It will have 400 souls. It was scouted by the first expedition. No one was baptized for everyone had fled.TahualamneThis village will have 200 souls. No one was baptized because their fear did not permit them to come down from their rocky village as is described on the 13th day of this account.The total baptisms performed on the two expeditions amount to141CoyeheteThis is a village of about 400 souls according to the report of the Indians. We did not see it. In addition there are a great many villages which I do not mention because I did not examine them.
Fray Pedro Muñoz
The two following selections are taken from reminiscences of old Mexican pioneers, obtained by Alexander S. Taylor in the early 1860’s. The first was published in an unidentified newspaper; the second is handwritten. Both purport to relate experiences of expeditions carried out in 1806 or 1807 (except the Ortega sortie of 1815 described by Olivera). The Olivera account follows the report of Moraga’s 1806 expedition in a general way but departs from the diary of Muñoz in many details. It is likely that the narrator was confusing this with other campaigns in which he was engaged. At any event little reliance should be placed upon his statements.
Both accounts give a lively picture of conditions in the valley at this period, and for such unofficial detail they are of some value.
Diego Olivera’s Account of Moraga’s 1806 Expedition
This account is given in a clipping from an unspecified newspaper, presumably of 1864. The piece has no title. It is included in Alexander S. Taylor’s collection, Discoverers, Founders and Pioneers of California (2:153).
My father, said he [i.e., Olivera],... was one of a company of sixty mounted men under the Alferez Gabriel Moraga, accompanied by the Padre Muñoz for chaplain, who left Monterey in August, 1806 ... and crossed over into the Tulares by the way of San Juan Bautista.... We traversed the whole of the country from where the San Joaquin comes out of the Sierra Nevada to a long way up north along the Sacramento River and found multitudes of Indians everywhere along the streams.43We passed fifteen days at one camp on the Sacramento, whence we made trips up into the snowy mountains.... We were obliged to encounter great dangers in this trip and did not get back till November after being out over a hundred days,44for, from the melting of the snows and the overflowing of the rivers and not knowing our whereabouts, we had to keep well on the lower hills and creep along by the eastern trail the best way we could until we found ourselves near the King’s River and the Big Lakes,45and picked our way among great numbers of Indian rancherias, until we came to the passes called the Tejon and Las Ulvas, and so made our exit at the Mission of San Fernando....There was also another expedition from Santa Barbara in the fall of 1815, which went over into the Tulares, where they met another party from Monterey who had come through the Estrella from San Miguel. That was commanded by Captain Juan Ortega, when Don Pablo Vicente de Sola was Governor. I was also along with it, but we did nothing particular, excepting to bring in a great many Indians for the reverend Padres to make Christians of. Thepobre infeliceslived like so many brutes indirt and filth, and were always fighting each other like so many wild cats and dogs,muymestanjes. The girls among them used to run after the soldiers—pobrecitas—and the people gave us the orphan children, and in this way many of their souls were saved who would otherwise have been lost with thediablos.
My father, said he [i.e., Olivera],... was one of a company of sixty mounted men under the Alferez Gabriel Moraga, accompanied by the Padre Muñoz for chaplain, who left Monterey in August, 1806 ... and crossed over into the Tulares by the way of San Juan Bautista.... We traversed the whole of the country from where the San Joaquin comes out of the Sierra Nevada to a long way up north along the Sacramento River and found multitudes of Indians everywhere along the streams.43We passed fifteen days at one camp on the Sacramento, whence we made trips up into the snowy mountains.... We were obliged to encounter great dangers in this trip and did not get back till November after being out over a hundred days,44for, from the melting of the snows and the overflowing of the rivers and not knowing our whereabouts, we had to keep well on the lower hills and creep along by the eastern trail the best way we could until we found ourselves near the King’s River and the Big Lakes,45and picked our way among great numbers of Indian rancherias, until we came to the passes called the Tejon and Las Ulvas, and so made our exit at the Mission of San Fernando....
There was also another expedition from Santa Barbara in the fall of 1815, which went over into the Tulares, where they met another party from Monterey who had come through the Estrella from San Miguel. That was commanded by Captain Juan Ortega, when Don Pablo Vicente de Sola was Governor. I was also along with it, but we did nothing particular, excepting to bring in a great many Indians for the reverend Padres to make Christians of. Thepobre infeliceslived like so many brutes indirt and filth, and were always fighting each other like so many wild cats and dogs,muymestanjes. The girls among them used to run after the soldiers—pobrecitas—and the people gave us the orphan children, and in this way many of their souls were saved who would otherwise have been lost with thediablos.
Felipe Santiago García’s Account of Moraga’s 1807 Expedition
Pertinent passages have been selected from a manuscript entitled “Story of an Old Dragoon of Monterey,” in Alexander Taylor’s Discoverers, Founders and Pioneers of California (2:141-151).