Sills, outside walls6' × 8"Sills, inside walls6 × 8Lintels, over openings6 × 10Girders, over piers6 × 10Plates4 thickRafters, 20 on centres2 × 6Horizontal purlins, or roof supports4 × 6Roof posts4" × 4"Bridging2 × 4Joists, 1st tier2" × 10" × 16" on centres“2d tier2 × 10 × 16“““3d tier2 × 8 × 16“““deck2 × 6 × 20““Studs2 × 4 × 16““Rafters, or deck joist, 16" on centres, when to be plastered.
Sizes here given may not be adapted to all sections. There is no occasion for being arbitrary. The sizes may be conformed to the material which is ordinarily used.
Stories ten and a half feet high are generally considered the limit in an ordinary frame house at this time. Nine and a half and ten are more common. This is quite different from the general tendency to high stories a few years ago. Certainly, it is more rational.
Joists are usually dressed, so that they have about one-half-inch crown or curve on their upper surface, which would make the centre of the room about one-half inch higher than the sides. They should be trimmed so that all are of the same width and form. Double trimmers and headers—that is, double joist—should be framed around all chimney-breasts, well-holes, scuttles, and openings in the wall. In dwelling-house work they should be mortised and tenoned together, as should be the pieces connecting therewith. In very cheap work headers and trimmers are sometimes spiked together. This is not good practice. For very good work, where heavy weights are to be carried, trimmers and headers should be supported on wrought-iron strips. This, however, is not necessary in ordinary dwelling-house work.
Joists longer than eighteen feet should be twelve inches inwidth. Those running adjacent or parallel to partition or other walls should be firmly spiked thereto. Double joists should be placed under all partitions and supports having no support from below. Where the weight is extra heavy, the double joists should be trussed by a two-by-four-inch stud, spiked in truss form, between them. There should be one row of truss bridging to each span or tier, size as indicated. Header should be framed across pipe duct, about eighteen inches therefrom.
Fig. 33
SeeFig. 33. Walls and partitions are usually of two-by-four-inch studding. In large houses it is best that the studding be two by six inches, and plates four inches in thickness and the width of the studding are commonly placed at the bottom and top of the walls of each story. Sometimes, however, the studding continues to the height of two stories, and the joists are supported on a one-by-six-inch “ribbon” piece let into the studding.
Trusses or supports should be framed over all openings. Sliding-door pockets or runways should be lined with flooring. All corners and angles should be framed solid and have two-inch projections for lathing. Studding four by four inches thick should be framed around all window openings and on three sides of the door openings; bridging, two by two inches, one row for each story. Grounds should be placed on the inside openings, and elsewhere for plastering. The pipe duct, fourteen inches wide, should be placed between studding from kitchen to attic floor. All outside walls of framehouses should be diagonally sheathed with seven-eighths-by-six-inch dressed sheathing. Tongued and grooved material is best for this purpose, although it is not in common use. All sheathing should be covered with six-pound sized building-paper.
Sometimes the insides of brick walls are furred. This means that they are lined on the inside with wood strips two inches in thickness, sixteen inches on centres, and then lathed and plastered. This prevents the passage of the moisture through the brick into the inside of the room.
Various forms of sheathing lath for inside sheathing of a frame house are now in use. This form of lath contemplates a seven-eighth-inch tongued and grooved sheathing on the inside with dove-tailed channels cut into its surface, which form key-room for the plastering.
Most roofs can be formed with out-posts and purlins. All can be formed in this way where cost is not considered. An ordinary dwelling-house of the size given in these plans does not require separate posts and purlins. There should be double rafters around all chimneys and openings in the roof.
The roof should be sheathed with seven-eighths by four-inch material; where exposed to view, with five-and-one-half-inch beaded flooring. Where deck framing is required, posts and purlins are necessary, size according to weight to be carried.
Where shingles are used for roofing, they should be laid four and one-half inches to the weather for sixteen-inch shingles, with two nails to each. It is best that shingles should be dipped in stain, oil, or paint before they are put on the roof. The durability of shingles is not increased by being painted after they have been laid. The ridge finish of the shingle or slateroof should be of galvanized iron, with about four-inch lap on each side. It may be made as ornamental as desired. Wood should never be used for this purpose. Hips and ridges of slate or shingle roofs may be finished with tin or galvanized iron, lapped on each side about three and one-half inches. Gutters of galvanized iron set up on the first course of shingles or slate, with metallic support from above or below, are better than gutters of wood tin-lined.
Where slate covering is used, any size slate desired may be employed, bearing in mind that the bond should not be less than three and one-half or four inches. There should be two nails to each slate.
All lumber used for outside finish should be thoroughly seasoned, clear, smoothly dressed, and free from imperfections tending to impair its use, durability, strength, or appearance. Poplar is the ideal building material for outside finish. It takes paint better than other woods used for this purpose. However, pine is generally used, for the reason that it is cheaper. Weather-boarding is usually laid with an inch lap four and one-half inches to the weather; three and one-half inches is better.
Fig. 34
Drop siding, or German siding as it is sometimes called, makes a warmer and better wall than weather-boarding. It is usually six or eight inches wide, and in form and construction as indicated byFig. 34.
Outside shingle walls are now quite common. Shingles are used for ornamental purposes in a large proportion of the houses that are built; in some instances they are used exclusively for outside covering. In such cases they are undressed, and are stained commonly with one of the proprietary stains now on the market. Before being placed they are dipped into the stain for about eight inches from their buts, and are laid in piles to dry. Any desired color may be secured, and there are instances where stained shingled walls have gone without any attention or expense for eight or ten years.
Dressed shingles are commonly painted. Their form may be as ornamental as desired. Outside shingles are sometimes laid five and one-half inches to the weather, but four and one-half is better. It is not uncommon at this time to leave all shingles unpainted and unstained. The effect is very agreeable when they become weather-stained.
All horizontal trimmings and casings should be bevelled on the top to shed the water. They should run back under the shingled weather-boarding or other outside covering. There should be tin covering for all projections in excess of one and three-eighths inch. Ordinary window or door casings outside are usually three-eighths inch thick.
All windows in the part of the house regularly occupied should have box frames. Pulley styles should be of hard wood, and the inside bead should be secured with round-headed screws. Sash for plate glass should be one and three-fourths inch thick; side rail, two and one-half inches in rabbet; bottom rail, three and one-eighth inches; and meeting rail, one and one-fourth inch in the rabbet. Sash for common glass may beone and three-eighths inch thick. Other sizes, as given. Sash, for rooms finished in hard wood is better when of the wood in which the room is finished. However, where there is great variation this is not necessary. Quartered oak is the material commonly used for hard-wood sash. Almost any hard wood is more liable to warp than pine. All box frames should be provided with turned axle pulleys. Nothing but the best plaited cotton sash-cord should be used. Necessary weights should be provided.
In some of the plans where wide front windows are indicated, the design is called pocket head. There is a pocket above the head of the frame so that a high sash may be run into it. The sash may be pushed up into the pocket; that is, it runs into the wall above the head of the frame. Where the pocket-head window is used, it is necessary that there be a clear space above the frame for the sash to be run up equal to the height of the sash itself.
Hinged or pivoted windows have rabbeted frames which are usually one and three-eighths inch thick. They are used for the most part in unfinished cellars, attics, and unoccupied parts of the house, and preferably for pantry, store-room, and, occasionally, bath-room windows. They may be hung on hinges or pivots. Hinges are better, for the reason that fly screens cannot be used where the sash is pivoted. Sills should slant twenty degrees, with drip piece secured to outside. This prevents the storm from blowing water to the inside.
Outside shutters are usually one and three-eighths inch thick, with movable slats; if more than six and one-half feet high, they should be made in three panels each. Arrangementsare provided by various manufacturers of hardware for opening outside shutters from the inside of the room. They may be swung either from the sides or top at will. When they are suspended from above they act as an awning; they admit the air but not the rays of the sun.
Sometimes shutters are cut at the meeting rail, so that the upper or lower section may be opened as desired.
At this time it is not usual to provide special ceiling for porches. The rafters and all exposed material are dressed so that they may be painted or stained. Floor joists are not usually more than two by eight inches; sills, about six by eight. The floor should be inclined about one-eighth of an inch to the foot, and made of hard wood, tongued and grooved, not over two and three-fourths inches in width. Edges should be finished with nosings, which are rounded edges. The roof of the porch is usually the same as that of the body of the house. Gutters are similar to those on other roofs.
Railing and turned balusters are usual, excepting where an opening for passage is desired.
Framework of lattice porch is generally the same form as other porches. The covering is usually made with one-and-three-eighths-inch material, laid diagonal; openings, one and three-eighths inch. Door and hardware, same as used for other parts of the house, are generally provided.
Outside steps of wood usually have hard-wood treads made of seven-eighths-by-two-and-one-half-inch pieces, with three-eighths-inch space between; carriages should be two by ten inches, about sixteen on centres. Railing and posts for steps should be provided if necessary. Lattice should be placed under porches and outside steps, and between all outside piers. Outside lattice-work in yard may be of the same general design as mentioned for lattice-work porches.
General statements as to outside wood-work apply alike to brick or frame houses, with certain omissions that should be obvious to an intelligent reader.
INSIDE WOOD-WORK.—FLOORS.—SOFT AND HARD WOOD FLOORS.—TABULATED STATEMENT OF INSIDE FINISH.—DIFFERENT KINDS OF WOOD.—DOORS AND FRAMES.—FLY SCREENS.—INSIDE CASINGS.—WAINSCOTING.—INSIDE SHUTTERS.—WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBING.—KITCHEN SINK AND FITTINGS.—KITCHEN TABLES.—CELLAR-SINK FITTINGS.—WOOD-WORK FOR BATH-TUB.—WATER-CLOSETS.—WASH-STANDS.—TANK.—PICTURE MOULDING.—CLOSET FITTINGS.—BROOM-RACK.—CEDAR-CLOSET.—DRY-BOX.—CLOCK SHELF.—CHINA-ROOM FITTINGS.—PANTRY FITTINGS.—STAIRWAYS.
INSIDE WOOD-WORK.—FLOORS.—SOFT AND HARD WOOD FLOORS.—TABULATED STATEMENT OF INSIDE FINISH.—DIFFERENT KINDS OF WOOD.—DOORS AND FRAMES.—FLY SCREENS.—INSIDE CASINGS.—WAINSCOTING.—INSIDE SHUTTERS.—WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBING.—KITCHEN SINK AND FITTINGS.—KITCHEN TABLES.—CELLAR-SINK FITTINGS.—WOOD-WORK FOR BATH-TUB.—WATER-CLOSETS.—WASH-STANDS.—TANK.—PICTURE MOULDING.—CLOSET FITTINGS.—BROOM-RACK.—CEDAR-CLOSET.—DRY-BOX.—CLOCK SHELF.—CHINA-ROOM FITTINGS.—PANTRY FITTINGS.—STAIRWAYS.
All material should be perfectly clear, first-class, thoroughly seasoned, kiln-dried, dressed material, free from imperfections tending to impair its use, durability, strength, or appearance. All inside finish excepting floors should be sand-papered. Where an especially good finish is desired, all should be scraped as well.
In preparing for floors, it is not unusual to make arrangements for preventing the passage of sound. This is done by deadening. The usual method is to nail strips about two inches and a half from the top edge of the joist, on which are laid one-inch boards. This leaves an inch and a half between their surface and the upper edge of the joist. This may be filled in with concrete, mineral wool, or other non-conducting material. Either is very effective in preventing the passage of sound fromthe floors to the rooms below. In a dwelling-house where two floors only are in common use, it is only necessary to deaden the second floor.
A permanent sheathing floor of the same material that is used for rough siding may be placed over all joists of first and second floors for a floor during the plastering of the house. This does not act as deadening, unless concrete or mineral wool be placed over it. It is well to have a floor of this kind for use during plastering. It also makes the lower floor warmer. It should be covered with building-paper before the finished floor is laid. Finished floors should extend throughout the first and second stories and the attic. They are commonly of pine or other soft wood. The material is tongued and grooved, secret-nailed, and should be smoothed off after laying. The boards should never be wider than five and a half inches, nor less in thickness than seven-eighths of an inch. They should be free from sap, large, loose, or black knots. Hard-wood floors may be of hard pine, oak, maple, or other hard wood that is readily obtainable or desirable. This material should not be more than two and three-fourths inches in width, nor less than seven-eighths of an inch in thickness, and should be tongued and grooved, secret-nailed, and smoothed off and scraped after laying. A better grade of pine flooring than that mentioned may be had if desired. It is best that all floors be laid after plastering. However, this is not the common practice. The carpenter should cut out flooring as directed, and prepare for hearths in proper places. Other inside dressed wood-work should never be placed in position until after the plastering is finished and dry.
The following table is from a specification in use by myself, and shows the kind of lumber, style of doors, finish of wood, painters’ finish, and rooms supplied with plate glass, and thegeneral style of hardware. The detail specification makes clear the points here outlined. The filling out of the blanks indicates the range and style of finish which frequently occur. The lettering of the doors and finish refers to drawings and details, a part of which are given in this connection.
FLOORS.KIND OF LUMBER.DOORS AND FINISH.THICKNESS OF DOOR.PAINTERS’ FINISH.ROOMS WITH PLATE-GLASS.STYLE OF HARDWARE.first floor.Front HallQu. Oak.A1¾———Parlor“ “A1¾All Oil.——Sitting-Room“ Sycamore.A1¾———Library““A1¾———Rear HallGum.A1¾———Dining-Room“A1¾———Chamber— ——————KitchenPlain Oak.D1⅜———Bedrooms— ——————Pantry“ ”D1⅜———China Room“ “D1⅜———second floor.Front HallGum.E1⅜———ChamberPine.E1⅜———"“E1⅜———"“E1⅜———"“E1⅜———Rear BedroomPoplar.D1⅜———AlcovePine.E1⅜———Bath-RoomQu. Oak.D1⅜———Rear HallPine.D1⅜———Other rooms“D1⅜———
It may be said, in general terms, in regard to the different kinds of wood used in finishing a house, that, all things considered, hard wood of one kind or another is preferable, for the reason that it stands the general wear and tear of house-keeping with less evidence of the struggle. Soft wood—pine or poplar—is only to be used because it is cheaper than the other. Quartered oak, quartered sycamore, cherry, maple, walnut and chestnut may be classed as the hard woods in ordinary use in finishing houses of moderate cost. Gum is difficult to class. It is neither hard nor soft. Others might be mentioned in this same connection. Pine and other resinous woods are mentioned as soft woods; as is also poplar, called in some sections white-wood. Any of these woods may be oil-finished, according to the general formula indicated elsewhere, or any of them may be stained. Birch stains very nicely.
Door-frames, when rabbeted, should not be less than one and three-eighths inch in thickness. Sometimes the strip is screwed to the frame. In that case the frame is often not more than one and one-eighth inch thick. One and three-eighths inch, however, is better. Front doors or principal entrance doors are frequently hard wood when all the others are soft wood. All outside doors are generally filled with glass in their upper panels. Sliding doors should be the same general design as other adjacent doors. One additional panel to each additional twelve inches in excess of width of other doors may be provided. Sliding doors should be hung from above. Hard-wood doors are usually solid. All excepting pine are best made of a veneer, one-fourth inch thick on a one-and-three-eighths-inch pine body, as indicated byFig. 35. Sometimes doors are made in twothicknesses of hard wood. This is not as good as a single thickness. Three thicknesses are better. The only door to be recommended, however, is the veneered door. Such doors will not warp; others are liable to do so. Transoms may be hung on pivots, and should be provided with catches, and, if heavy or high, with adjustable lifts. Transoms are sometimes used in doors on the second floor, though this practice is less common than in the past. Where doors with transoms are used, it is not uncommon to have the closet doors extend to the full height of the transom tops, and provide additional top panels. Doors six feet ten inches in height, or less, and not more than one and three-eighths inch in thickness, may be hung on two three-and-one-half by three-and-one-half-inch buts. If higher than this or wider than three feet, they should be hung on three buts or hinges.
Fig. 35
Doors in unfinished cellars may be made of two thicknessesof seven-eighths beaded flooring; frames the same as in rooms above. A seven-eighths batten door, with one-and-three-eighths-inch frame, should be provided for man-hole in cellar. Scuttle doors, where required, may be seven-eighths inch in thickness, battened.
Fig. 36
Fig. 37
Cuts35,36,37indicate ordinary style of inside door and window finish, the sizes and heights being marked. Doors from dining-room to china-closet and china-closet to kitchen should be hung on double-spring hinges, so that they will swing either way and come back to position. The slide from the kitchen to china-closet or dining-room should be hung the same as sash, with plaited cotton sash-cord, pulleys, and weights, and provided with lifts and bolt fastenings.
Frames should be provided for opening into bay windows, window-seats, alcoves, and pilasters.
Stop beads for glazed and sliding doors should be secured with round-headed screws.
There should be corner beads for external angles.
In the modern house all outside openings, from cellar to attic, are provided with fly screens. They are now made byconcerns who make it a business to do this work, and are much better than those made by the ordinary carpenter. They are arranged so that they will slide up and down on the inside or outside stop, and are finished in every way to correspond with the other wood-work of the house. They need not be more than three-quarters of an inch in thickness if properly made. A small strip is secured to the stop bead, and a corresponding groove is cut in the screen frame. A spring therein holds it firm, and admits of their removal without trouble or waste of time. Special hardware is provided for door and window screens.
The commonest way of constructing casings at this time is indicated inFigs. 35and36, showing inside of doors and windows. This is one of the least expensive forms, and is adapted to all ordinary work. The casings are usually seven-eighths inch thick, the corner and plinth blocks one and one-eighth inch thick. The plinth block comes at the bottom of the casing. One reason that this form of casing is in such general use is, that the corner block conceals any slight shrinkage which there may be in the wood. Where there is a mitred or flush joint, the shrinkage is certain to show. Casings as elaborate as any one is inclined to pay for may be used. Window, door, alcove, and other casings are generally all of one design in a room. All girders and projections below ceilings should be cased.
The base-board around the room should be plain, so that it may be readily cleaned. Where it is ornamented, it adds nothing to the appearance of the room. There should be a base for all plastered walls. Generally they should be not more thaneight inches high, seven-eighths inch thick, bevelled at the top and a quarter round at the bottom. A five-eighths-inch adjustable lip may be put on at the top, to take up the inequalities in the plaster. The closet base may be formed of a quarter round only if it is plastered and skimmed to the floor. It is well to have as little wood-work as possible in the closet.
Wainscoting kitchen, bath, and other rooms is not as common as it once was. This is because wood-work is more difficult to keep clean than plastering. Wherever there is wainscoting, there must necessarily be joints. These are difficult to keep clean. Panel wood-work, or other form of decoration for wall or ceiling, may be used in rooms according to the disposition of the owner and the taste of the architect.
Inside shutters are not so universally used in good houses as they were a few years ago. Draperies, though more expensive, are preferred, and are taking their place. Inside sliding shutters, arranged in several sections and constructed according to the general plan described for fly-screens, are in more common use. Rolling slats which roll into a pocket are to be thought of only in connection with an expensive dwelling. The common inside shutter is ordinarily seven-eighths inch in thickness, four panels wide, beaded, and cut at the meeting rail; and the four centre panels are provided with movable slats. The special designs of inside shutters mentioned are manufactured by various establishments throughout the country, and are advertised in various magazines and periodicals. Under anycircumstances the owner will have to investigate proprietary goods and special furnishings for himself. They are not to be considered in a work of this kind.
All should be put up in a way to make plumbing readily accessible by the removal of screws. The pipe duct should be located as required in the kitchen, and pass from basement to attic floor. The inside measurement should be seven by twelve inches. It should be constructed of seven eighths-inch lumber. In case of stud partitions, the duct may be let into the wall the full depth allowed by studding. The front will project into the kitchen. All should be of clear lumber, the same as other wood used in finishing. A ventilating opening, five inches in diameter, may be provided at the top of the duct. This may be connected with pipe and funnel, or other device, placed over the kitchen range. The carpenter should provide pipe boards for all pipe runs. The following, in regard to wood-work for plumbing, is from the specification of an architect:
Kitchen Sink and Fittings.—Wood rim, ⅞ by 2½ inches; skirt, ⅞ by 6½ inches; support on cleat at back, plain oak, 1⅜-inch turned legs in front.Splash-board.—⅞ by 14 inches, scurfed back; ⅞ by 2 inches, plain top.Drain-board.—Shall be 22 inches long by 21 inches wide, ⅞ inch thick, 1 inch incline; channelled top; skirt, 3 by ⅞ cleated with two cleats at bottom. One end shall rest on sink, side on wall cleat, other end on turned leg.Full length of tables, sink, and drain.Tables.—There shall be two tables connected with drain and sink, each 21 inches wide, 2 by 6 inches long, ⅞ thick; skirt, 3 by ⅞ inches. Cleated back. Secured and supported same as drain.Other Sinks:—Cellar Sink.—Provide ⅞-by-3-inch supporting rim, 2½ inches by ⅞ inch top. 1⅜ square legs.Bath-tub.—Case sides and ends with ⅞-by-2¾-inch oak board, tonguedand grooved material, secret-nailed. Batten foot-casing, and put in in one piece with round-headed blue screws. Cap top.Splash-board.—Wainscoting same as tub casing, 6 inches high. Cap top in two members ⅞ inch thick.Water-closet.—Hinged flap and seat, each ⅞ inch thick; skirt, ⅞ by 5 inches; support on 1⅜ turned legs in front, cleat at back.Case water-closet tank, mould top.Wash-stands.—Provide supports under marble top. Case sides same as specified for tub. Make cleated door in front of same material. Provide hinges and fastenings.Tank.—A tank shall be placed in attic; capacity, 8 barrels. Construct with 1¾-inch ploughed and tongued material, with two ⅜-inch rods, bolts, and nuts at each end, and cleats across top at middle.In this house there shall be the following plumbing fixtures, to be fitted up as above: 1 kitchen sink, cellar sink, sink, 1 bath-tub, 1 water-closet, 1 wash-stand.
Kitchen Sink and Fittings.—Wood rim, ⅞ by 2½ inches; skirt, ⅞ by 6½ inches; support on cleat at back, plain oak, 1⅜-inch turned legs in front.
Splash-board.—⅞ by 14 inches, scurfed back; ⅞ by 2 inches, plain top.
Drain-board.—Shall be 22 inches long by 21 inches wide, ⅞ inch thick, 1 inch incline; channelled top; skirt, 3 by ⅞ cleated with two cleats at bottom. One end shall rest on sink, side on wall cleat, other end on turned leg.
Full length of tables, sink, and drain.
Tables.—There shall be two tables connected with drain and sink, each 21 inches wide, 2 by 6 inches long, ⅞ thick; skirt, 3 by ⅞ inches. Cleated back. Secured and supported same as drain.
Other Sinks:—
Cellar Sink.—Provide ⅞-by-3-inch supporting rim, 2½ inches by ⅞ inch top. 1⅜ square legs.
Bath-tub.—Case sides and ends with ⅞-by-2¾-inch oak board, tonguedand grooved material, secret-nailed. Batten foot-casing, and put in in one piece with round-headed blue screws. Cap top.
Splash-board.—Wainscoting same as tub casing, 6 inches high. Cap top in two members ⅞ inch thick.
Water-closet.—Hinged flap and seat, each ⅞ inch thick; skirt, ⅞ by 5 inches; support on 1⅜ turned legs in front, cleat at back.
Case water-closet tank, mould top.
Wash-stands.—Provide supports under marble top. Case sides same as specified for tub. Make cleated door in front of same material. Provide hinges and fastenings.
Tank.—A tank shall be placed in attic; capacity, 8 barrels. Construct with 1¾-inch ploughed and tongued material, with two ⅜-inch rods, bolts, and nuts at each end, and cleats across top at middle.
In this house there shall be the following plumbing fixtures, to be fitted up as above: 1 kitchen sink, cellar sink, sink, 1 bath-tub, 1 water-closet, 1 wash-stand.
Picture mouldings should be provided on all plastered walls excepting those of kitchen and pantries. It is usual to place the picture moulding on a line with the top of the door; that is, so that it comes just below the top of the corner block.
Shelves should be seven-eighths inch thick, number and arrangement as desired.
The following is a schedule from closet-fittings. Provide hooks in closets as follows:—
One row to cleat on wall 5 feet 3 inches from floor.One row under side of shelf.One row to cleat on wall 3 feet 6 inches from floor in children’s closets.
One row to cleat on wall 5 feet 3 inches from floor.
One row under side of shelf.
One row to cleat on wall 3 feet 6 inches from floor in children’s closets.
Drawers for closets are best made by a cabinet-maker. If not, they should be modelled in all respects after cabinet work.Cedar closets are not as common as they once were. As people have more to place in them, there is less confidence in their efficacy. The following is from a specification:—
Broom-rack.—Provide in space as directed 1 broom-rack, with cast-iron broom-holder, for sweep-broom, whisk-broom; hooks for dust-pan and bucket.Medicine-chest.—Provide in closet a medicine-chest 8 by 10 by 16 inches, with ⅞ panelled and hinged door. Approved lock.Exposed wood-work thereof same as room in which closet is placed.Cedar-closet.—Closet shall be lined, ceiled, and fitted up with red cedar.Dry-box.—Secured on wall adjacent to kitchen range shall be placed a drying-box for scrub-rags, brushes, etc., 8 inches deep by 18 inches wide by 24 inches high, constructed with ⅞; material, inside measurements. Provide hinged ⅞;-inch panelled door with fastening. Top, bottom, and shelves shall be perforated with ¾-auger-holes for passage of warm air through the box.Soap-box.—Constructed same as dry-box. Size, 9 inches deep, 20 inches wide, 30 inches high.Door, ⅞; inch thick, panelled. Provide approved lock. Shelves, ⅝ thick, set into sides, 3 inches apart. Perforate bottom and shelves with ¾-inch auger-holes, and connect top with kitchen or vent-flue.Clock-shelf.—Provide 8-inch moulded clock-shelf, ⅞ inch thick, in kitchen.Ventilator.Clothes-chute.Coal-chute.Coal-bins in cellar.
Broom-rack.—Provide in space as directed 1 broom-rack, with cast-iron broom-holder, for sweep-broom, whisk-broom; hooks for dust-pan and bucket.
Medicine-chest.—Provide in closet a medicine-chest 8 by 10 by 16 inches, with ⅞ panelled and hinged door. Approved lock.
Exposed wood-work thereof same as room in which closet is placed.
Cedar-closet.—Closet shall be lined, ceiled, and fitted up with red cedar.
Dry-box.—Secured on wall adjacent to kitchen range shall be placed a drying-box for scrub-rags, brushes, etc., 8 inches deep by 18 inches wide by 24 inches high, constructed with ⅞; material, inside measurements. Provide hinged ⅞;-inch panelled door with fastening. Top, bottom, and shelves shall be perforated with ¾-auger-holes for passage of warm air through the box.
Soap-box.—Constructed same as dry-box. Size, 9 inches deep, 20 inches wide, 30 inches high.
Door, ⅞; inch thick, panelled. Provide approved lock. Shelves, ⅝ thick, set into sides, 3 inches apart. Perforate bottom and shelves with ¾-inch auger-holes, and connect top with kitchen or vent-flue.
Clock-shelf.—Provide 8-inch moulded clock-shelf, ⅞ inch thick, in kitchen.
Ventilator.Clothes-chute.Coal-chute.Coal-bins in cellar.
Cupboard(see drawing, Chapter VII.).—Shelves as directed below and above. Lower shelves ⅞ inch thick.Lower doors ⅞ panelled, upper doors glazed.Provide hinges and fastenings for all.There shall be 8 inches space between ⅞-inch top of lower section and bottom shelf of upper section. Upper door shall not come below under side of this upper section shelf.Table.—Construction same as in kitchen.Sink.Drawers.
Cupboard(see drawing, Chapter VII.).—Shelves as directed below and above. Lower shelves ⅞ inch thick.
Lower doors ⅞ panelled, upper doors glazed.
Provide hinges and fastenings for all.
There shall be 8 inches space between ⅞-inch top of lower section and bottom shelf of upper section. Upper door shall not come below under side of this upper section shelf.
Table.—Construction same as in kitchen.
Sink.
Drawers.
Cupboard(see drawing,Chapter VII.).—As indicated. Doors below and shelves above, same as specified for china. No doors above.Dough-board.—Provide constructed same as tables specified for kitchen, except that it shall be supported on brackets.Flour-bin.—Shall be 18 inches deep by 24 inches high in front, 28 inches in rear, by —— long, —— compartments. Set 4 inches from floor. Top cleated and hinged. Lumber ⅞ inch thick.
Cupboard(see drawing,Chapter VII.).—As indicated. Doors below and shelves above, same as specified for china. No doors above.
Dough-board.—Provide constructed same as tables specified for kitchen, except that it shall be supported on brackets.
Flour-bin.—Shall be 18 inches deep by 24 inches high in front, 28 inches in rear, by —— long, —— compartments. Set 4 inches from floor. Top cleated and hinged. Lumber ⅞ inch thick.
The flour-bin described in the specifications is the old kind with the hinged top. Another kind that has been used successfully is here illustrated.
Flour-bin
The receptacle for flour is pivoted in the manner indicated by the section. The pivot position is indicated on the drawing by the point of the arrow. The dotted lines on the section indicate the position of the flour receptacle when it is open. It is pulled open by the hand. The knob is shown on the drawing of front. As soon as it is released it falls back into a closed position. It is pivoted so that it remains closed unless held open. The front drawing indicates a flour-bin of this kind with three receptacles; the larger one for flour, and the two smaller ones for meal and graham. The marble dough-stone can be placed on the top of a bin of this kind. If there is no other room for the bin it can be placedin the lower section of the pantry cupboard, and can take the space ordinarily given one of the doors. The pantry cupboard is illustrated and described inChapter VII.
Pantry Supply Box
These boxes are constructed on the same principle as the flour-bin, just described. They are pivoted and arranged in a row, and may be set on a pantry shelf. The drawing indicates eight of these boxes, four of them nine by twelve inches, and four five by three and three-fourths inches. These boxes are of tin, the frame only being of wood. The socket into which the pivot fits is open at the bottom, so that the box can be lifted off the pivot and taken out and washed. An arrangement such as this takes very little room, and the boxes are always closed unless held open. They are so pivoted that they fall into a closed position as soon as released. Two of these boxes in a china-closet would be convenient to hold bread and cake.
The wood-work of the stairway should always be of hard wood. Where hard wood is used for entire finish, the stairway is best of the same variety. The treads should always be one and one-eighth inch in thickness, and never less than ten inches in width. The risers may be seven-eighths inch thick and never more than seven and one-half inches in height; Square or turned newel posts are in common use. Winders should notbe used for the main stairway. Square turns at the landing should be made. Sometimes the rear stairway is of the same general style and design as the front. When it is an open stairway, it is necessary that this should be the case. A rear box stairway, the cellar and attic stairway, or, in fact, any box stairway, should have the treads and risers the same thickness and general dimensions as those mentioned for the front. However, they need not be of hard wood. They should always be provided with hand-rails. All lumber for cellar or attic stairways should be clear and dressed, and quite as well finished as that of any other part of the house. When the cellar is not plastered, the side lining for cellar stairways should be seven-eighths-inch flooring below the first-story plastering. This flooring should be dressed on both sides. The outside cellar-way should have dressed treads and risers one and three-fourths inch thick. The wall should be capped, preferably with stone, and the outside cellar door should be of iron. Where economy is necessary, one-and-three-fourths-inch oak coping and doors may be used.
PLASTERING.—GRAY FINISH.—WHITE HARD FINISH.—BACK PLASTERING.—GAS-PIPING.—TIN WORK.—GUTTERS.—VALLEYS.—DOWN SPOUTS.—GALVANIZED IRON-WORK.—HOT-AIR PIPES.—THIMBLES.—PAINTING.—STAINING.—OIL FINISHING.—INTERIOR STAINING.—FLOOR FINISH.—GLAZING.—PLATE-GLASS.—BEVELLED GLASS.—CATHEDRAL GLASS.—HARDWARE.
PLASTERING.—GRAY FINISH.—WHITE HARD FINISH.—BACK PLASTERING.—GAS-PIPING.—TIN WORK.—GUTTERS.—VALLEYS.—DOWN SPOUTS.—GALVANIZED IRON-WORK.—HOT-AIR PIPES.—THIMBLES.—PAINTING.—STAINING.—OIL FINISHING.—INTERIOR STAINING.—FLOOR FINISH.—GLAZING.—PLATE-GLASS.—BEVELLED GLASS.—CATHEDRAL GLASS.—HARDWARE.
It is only within the last ten or fifteen years that it has been at all common to do two-coat work in plastering. Before that time three-coat work was almost universal. Most of the plastering done at this time is what is called “laid-on” work. The first two coats are put on at the same time. The last coat is put on after these are dry. The laths are nearly always of pine. There should be one nail for each contact with the wood-work; that is, four nails to each lath. The mortar should be made of the best quality of lime and sharp sand.
A sufficient quantity of hair should be used. The mortar should be floated, or made smooth, and straightened to receive the wood-work. The last coat should be put on after the other is thoroughly dry. It should be trowelled to a smooth surface, and when completed should be free from chip cracks, stains, and improper mixing of sand. Three-coat work, where each coat is allowed to become thoroughly dry, is better than two-coat work. The last coat is usually a white plaster-of-Paris finish, put on with the skim.
A gray finish is used more generally at the present time than in the past. It is put on in place of the white skim coat.
The natural color is a pleasant gray tint. It may be made smooth enough for papering. The skim coat, white or gray, may be tinted with fresco color at less cost than it can be papered. Paper becomes necessary on a white skim finish after a short time.
The hard white finish, which is not commonly used at the present time, is very satisfactory excepting for its extreme whiteness. This finish is made by the use of white sand and skim rubbed and floated down until only a sufficient amount of the lime or skim proper remains to cement the sand to the wall. The same kind of a finish with gray sand is very satisfactory.
Proprietary finishes for plastered walls are now used to some extent in the better class of work. They are very hard, of waterproof texture and of any color desired. The coloring of finish for plastering is ordinarily not successful. However, some of the proprietary colored goods before the public are very satisfactory when well put on. The one difficulty in the way of their use is in getting the plasterer to handle properly a thing with which he is not familiar.
Back plastering is common in very cold climates, and is done by plastering on the back of the sheathing between the studding. It is independent of the inside plastering.
Cement pavements in floors are considered in the previous chapter.
Gas-pipes are placed in a house before lathing. The gas company which supplies the illuminating or fuel gas furnishes the inspection for each set of pipes. Below is given a form of specification in use by an architect in a natural-gas region.
Illuminating Gas.—Provide and fix gas-pipe and fittings according to gas company’s regulations. All pipes shall be concealed, excepting where itis desired to attach a burner. Cap pipes. Lights to be placed as indicated by table below.Fuel or Natural Gas.—Provide and fix pipe and fittings according to company’s regulations. Company’s certificate of approval will be required before payments are made. Cap pipes until mixers and burners are attached.Valves and connections shall be provided preparatory to mixer and burner connections. Provide connection with street mains.
Illuminating Gas.—Provide and fix gas-pipe and fittings according to gas company’s regulations. All pipes shall be concealed, excepting where itis desired to attach a burner. Cap pipes. Lights to be placed as indicated by table below.
Fuel or Natural Gas.—Provide and fix pipe and fittings according to company’s regulations. Company’s certificate of approval will be required before payments are made. Cap pipes until mixers and burners are attached.
Valves and connections shall be provided preparatory to mixer and burner connections. Provide connection with street mains.
TABLE OF DISTRIBUTION.