FRYING PAN, ROUND
Provided with a lip to pour out fluids, a convenience which many modern pans lack. The broad flat handle is of one piece with the pan and has a hole for suspension. On some ancient pans these handles were hinged so as to fold over the cavity of the pan, to save room in storing it away, particularly in a soldier’s knapsack. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 76571; Field M. 24024.
FRONTISPICE, SECOND LISTER EDITION
purporting to represent the interior of an ancient kitchen. J. Gœree, the artist and engraver, has invented it. The general tidiness differs from contemporary Dutch kitchens and the clothing of the cooks reminds one of Henry VIII, who issued at Eltham in 1526 this order: “... provide and sufficiently furnish the kitchens of such scolyons as shall not goe naked or in garments of such vilenesse as they doe ... nor lie in the nights and dayes in the kitchens ... by the fire-side....”—MS. No. 642, Harleian Library.
THE GREAT PALLAS ATHENE DISH
One of the finest show platters in existence. Of Hellenic make. The object in the right hand of Athene has created considerable conjecture but has never been identified.
Hildesheim Treasure.
FRYING PAN, OVAL
This oblong pan was no doubt primarily used in fish cookery. An oblong piece of food material fitted snugly into the pan, thus saving fats and other liquids in preparation. Around the slender handle was no doubt one of non-heat-conducting material. The shape and the lip of the pan indicate that it was not used for “sauter.” Ntl. Mus., Naples, 76602; Field M. 24038.
Lib. VII. Polyteles
[In addition to the above chapters two more are inserted in the text of BookVII, namely Chap.X, Fresh Ham and Chap.XI, To Cook Salt Pork; these being inserted after Chap.IX, Pork Shoulder, making a total of XIX Chapters.]
SOW’S WOMB, CRACKLINGS, UDDER, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEETVULVÆ STERILES, CALLUM LUMBELLI COTICULÆ ET UNGELLÆ
[251] SPAYED SOW’S WOMB [1]VULVÆ STERILES
STERILE SOW’S WOMB (ALSO UDDER AND BELLY) IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER: TAKE [2] LASER FROM CYRENE OR PARTHIA, VINEGAR AND BROTH.
[1] The vulva of a sow was a favorite dish with the ancients, considered a great delicacy. Sows were slaughtered before they had a litter, or were spayed for the purpose of obtaining the sterile womb.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[252] ANOTHER WAYALITER
TAKE PEPPER, CELERY SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH.
[253] SPAYED SOW’S WOMBVULVÆ STERILES
WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND PARTHIAN LASER.
[254] ANOTHER WAYALITER
WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1] AND BROTH AND A LITTLE CONDIMENT.
[1] Wanting in Lister.
[255] CRACKLINGS, PORK SKIN, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEETCALLUM, LUMBELLI[1]COTICULÆ, UNGELLÆ
SERVE WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND LASER (WHICH THE GREEKS CALL “SILPHION”) [2].
[1] Tor., G.-V.libelli.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[256] GRILLED SOW’S WOMBVULVAM UT TOSTAM FACIAS
ENVELOPE IN BRAN, AFTERWARDS [1] PUT IN BRINE AND THEN COOK IT.
[1] We would reverse the process: first pickle the vulva, then coat it with bran (or with bread crumbs) and fry.
[257] SOW’S BELLYSUMEN
SOW’S UDDER OR BELLY WITH THE PAPS ON IT IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER [1] THE BELLY BOIL, TIE IT TOGETHER WITH REEDS, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND PLACE IT IN THE OVEN, OR, START ROASTING ON THE GRIDIRON. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, WITH BROTH, PURE WINE, ADDING RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, THICKEN [the sauce] WITH ROUX AND POUR IT OVER THE ROAST.
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[258] STUFFED SOW’S BELLYSUMEN PLENUM
FULL [1] SOW’S BELLY IS STUFFED WITH [2] CRUSHED PEPPER, CARRAWAY, SALT MUSSELS; SEW THE BELLY TIGHT AND ROAST. ENJOY THIS WITH A BRINE SAUCE AND MUSTARD.
[1] Full grown, also stuffed with forcemeat.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
FIG-FED PORKFICATUM[1]
[1] Tor.De Sycoto, id est, Ficato.
[259] WINE SAUCE FOR FIG-FED PORKIN FICATO ŒNOGARUM[1]
FIG-FED PORK LIVER (THAT IS, LIVER CRAMMED WITH FIGS) IS PREPARED IN A WINE SAUCE WITH [2] PEPPER, THYME, LOVAGE, BROTH, A LITTLE WINE AND OIL [3].
[1] Tor.Ficatum, iecur suillum.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Reinsenius,ficatum[or sicatum]projecore.
According to the invention of Marcus Apicius, pigs were starved, and the hungry pigs were crammed with dry figs and then suddenly given all the mead they wanted to drink. The violent expansion of the figs in the stomachs, or the fermentation caused acute indigestion which killed the pigs. The livers were very much enlarged, similar to the cramming of geese for the sake of obtaining abnormally large livers. This latter method prevailed in the Strassburg District until recently when it was prohibited by law.
[260] ANOTHER WAYALITER
TRIM [the liver] MARINATE IN BROTH, WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE,TWO LAUREL BERRIES, WRAP IN CAUL, GRILL ON THE GRIDIRON AND SERVE.
Goll. Stick figs into the liver by making apertures with the knife or with a needle.
It is by no means clear that the liver is meant.
TID-BITS, CHOPS, CUTLETSOFFELLÆ[1]
[261] OSTIAN [2] MEAT BALLSOFFELLÆ OSTIENSES
PREPARE THE MEAT IN THIS MANNER [3] CLEAN THE MEAT [of bones, sinews, etc.] SCRAPE IT AS THIN AS A SKIN [and shape it]. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CARRAWAY, SILPHIUM, ONE LAUREL BERRY, MOISTENED WITH BROTH; IN A SQUARE DISH PLACE THE MEAT BALLS AND THE SPICES WHERE THEY REMAIN IN PICKLING FOR TWO OR THREE DAYS, COVERED CROSSWISE WITH TWIGS. THEN PLACE THEM IN THE OVEN [to be roasted], WHEN DONE TAKE THE FINISHED MEAT BALLS OUT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, WITH THE BROTH, ADD A LITTLE RAISIN WINE TO SWEETEN. COOK IT, THICKEN WITH ROUX, IMMERSE THE BALLS IN THE SAUCE AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V.Ofellæ; apparently the old Roman “Hamburger Steak.” The term covers different small meat pieces, chops, steaks, etc.
[2] Ostia, town at the mouth of the river Tiber, Rome’s harbour.
[3] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[262] APICIAN ROULADESOFFELLAS APICIANAS
BONE THE MEAT FOR THE [roulades—a pork loin, roll it, tie it] OVEN, SHAPE ROUND, COVER WITH OR WRAP IN RUSHES. [Roast] WHEN DONE, RETIRE, ALLOW TO DRIP AND DRY ON THE GRIDIRON BUT SO THAT THE MEAT DOES NOT HARDEN. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUSH [1], CUMIN, ADDING BROTH AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. PLACE THE ROULADES WITH THIS SAUCE TOGETHER IN A SAUCE PAN [finish by braising] WHEN DONE, RETIRE THE ROULADES AND DRY THEM. SERVE WITHOUT THE GRAVY SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER. IF TOO FAT REMOVE THE OUTER SKIN [2].
[1]Cyperis,—os,—um,cypirus, variants for a sort of rush; probably “Cyprian Grass.”
[2] Dann. Dumplings; but this formula appears to deal with boneless pork chops, pork roulades or “filets mignons.”
[263] PORK CUTLETS, HUNTER STYLEOFFELLÆ APRUGNEO[1]MORE
IN THE SAME MANNER YOU CAN MAKE TIDBITS OF SOW’S BELLY [2] PORK CHOPS PREPARED IN A MANNER TO RESEMBLE WILD BOAR ARE [3] PICKLED IN OIL AND BROTH AND PLACED IN SPICES. WHEN THE CUTLETS ARE DONE [marinated] THE PICKLE IS PLACED ON THE FIRE AND BOILED; THE CUTLETS ARE PUT BACK INTO THIS GRAVY AND ARE FINISHED WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, BROTH, AND ROUX. WHEN THIS IS DONE SERVE THE CUTLETS WITHOUT THE BROTH AND OIL, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER.
[1] G.-V.Aprugineo; List.Offellæ Aprugneæ, i.e. wild boar chops or cutlets. Vat. Ms.aprogneo more; Tor.pro genuino more; Tac.aprogeneo—fromaprugnus, wild boar.
Mutton today is prepared in a similar way, marinated with spices, etc., to resemble venison, and is calledMouton à la Chasseur, hunter style.
[2] This sentence, probably belonging to the preceding formula, carried over by Torinus.
[3] This sentence only in Torinus.
[264] TIDBITS ANOTHER WAYALITER OFFELLÆ
THE BALLS OR CUTLETS ARE [1] PROPERLY FRIED IN THE PAN, NEARLY DONE. [Next prepare the following] ONE WHOLE [2] GLASS BROTH, A GLASS OF WATER, A GLASS OF VINEGAR AND A GLASS OF OIL, PROPERLY MIXED; PUT THIS IN AN EARTHEN BAKING DISH [immerse meat pieces] FINISH ON THE FIRE AND SERVE.
[1] Tor.
[2] Tor.Summi; List.sumis, i.e. broth of the pork.
[265] TIDBITS IN ANOTHER STYLEALITER OFFELLAS
ALSO FRY THE CUTLETS THIS WAY: [1] IN A PAN WITH PLENTY OF WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [ANOTHER WAY] [2] THE CUTLETS PREVIOUSLY SALT AND PICKLED IN A BROTH OF CUMIN, ARE PROPERLY FRIED [3].
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[2] The texts have two formulæ; by the transposition of the two sentencesthe formula appears as a whole and one that is intelligible from a culinary point of view.
[3] The texts have:in aqua recte friguntur; theacquapresumably belongs to the cumin pickle. To fry in water is not possible.
CHOICE ROASTS [1]ASSATURÆ
[266] ROASTING, PLAINASSATURAM SIMPLICEM[2]
SIMPLY PUT THE MEATS TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN, GENEROUSLY SPRINKLED WITH SALT, AND SERVE [it glazed] WITH HONEY [3].
[1] Tor.De assaturæ exquisitæ apparatu.
[2] Brandt adds “plain.”
[3] Corresponding to our present method of roasting; fresh and processed ham is glazed with sugar.
Roasting in the oven is not as desirable as roasting on the spit, universally practised during the middle ages. The spit seems to have been unknown to the Romans. It is seldom used today, although we have improved it by turning it with electrical machinery.
[267] ANOTHER STYLE FOR ROASTSALITER ASSATURAS
TAKE 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, OF LASER [1] JUST AS MANY, 6 OF GINGER, 5 LAUREL BERRIES, 6 SCRUPLES OF PRESERVED LASER ROOT, CYPRIAN RUSH 6, 6 OF ORIGANY, A LITTLE COSTMARY, 3 SCRUPLES OF CHAMOMILE [or pellitory], 6 SCRUPLES OF CELERY SEED, 12 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, AND BROTH AND OIL AS MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE UP [2].
[1] G.-V.asareos[?]Asarum, the herb foalbit, wild spikenard.
[2] No directions are given for the making of this compound which are essential to insure success of this formula. Outwardly it resembles some of the commercial sauces made principally in England (Worcestershire, etc.), which are served with every roast.
[268] ANOTHER [Condiment for] ROASTALITER ASSATURAS
CRUSH DRY MYRTLE BERRIES WITH CUMIN AND PEPPER, ADDING HONEY ALSO BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL. HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. POUR THIS OVER THE ROAST THAT IS MEDIUM DONE, WITH SALT; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[269] ANOTHER ROAST [Sauce]ALITER ASSATURAS
6 SCRUPLES PEPPER, 6 SCRUPLES LOVAGE, 6 SCRUPLES PARSLEY, 6 SCRUPLES CELERY SEED, 6 SCRUPLES DILL, 6 SCRUPLES LASER ROOT, 6 SCRUPLES WILD SPIKENARD [1], 6 SCRUPLES CYPRIAN RUSH, 6 SCRUPLES CARRAWAY, 6 SCRUPLES CUMIN, 6 SCRUPLES GINGER, A PINT OF BROTH AND A SPOONFUL OIL.
[1] Tor.assareos; cf. note 1 to ℞ No.267.
[270] ROAST NECK [1]ASSATURAS IN COLLARI
PUT IN A BRAISIÈRE [2] AND BOIL PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, BROTH; AND HEAT THIS WITH THE MEAT IN THE OVEN. THE NECK PIECE ITSELF, IF YOU LIKE, IS ALSO ROASTED WITH SPICES AND THE HOT GRAVY IS SIMPLY POURED OVER AT THE MOMENT OF SERVING [3].
[1] A piece of meat from the neck of a food animal, beef, veal, pork; a muscular hard piece, requiring much care to make it palatable, a “pot roast.”
[2] A roasting pan especially adapted for braising tough meats, with closefitting cover to hold the vapors.
[3] Tor. combines this and the foregoing formula. G.-V.siccum calidum, for hot gravy. Perhaps a typographical error forsuccum.
BOILED, STEWED MEATS, AND DAINTY FOODIN ELIXAM ET COPADIA
[271] SAUCE FOR ALL BOILED DISHESJUS IN ELIXAM OMNEM
PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, RUE, SILPHIUM, DRY ONION, WINE, REDUCED WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, A LITTLE OIL, BOILED DOWN, STRAINED THROUGH A CLOTH AND POURED UNDER THE HOT COOKED MEATS [1].
[1] A very complicated sauce for boiled viands. Most of the ingredients are found in the Worcestershire Sauce.
[272] SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDSJUS IN ELIXAM
MAKE IT THUS: [Tor.] PEPPER, PARSLEY, BROTH, VINEGAR, FIG-DATES, ONIONS, LITTLE OIL, POURED UNDER VERY HOT.
[273] ANOTHERJUS IN ELIXAM
CRUSH PEPPER, DRY RUE, FENNEL SEED, ONION, FIGDATES, WITH BROTH AND OIL.
[274] WHITE [bread] [1] SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDSJUS CANDIDUM IN ELIXAM
WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHES IS MADE THUS: [2] PEPPER, BROTH, WINE, RUE, ONIONS, NUTS, A LITTLE SPICE, BREAD SOAKED TO THE SATURATION POINT, OIL, WHICH IS COOKED AND SPREAD UNDER [the meat].
[1] Our present bread sauce, somewhat simpler, but essentially the same as the Apician sauce, is very popular with roast partridge, pheasant and other game in England.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[275] ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDSALITER JUS CANDIDUM IN ELIXAM
ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHES CONTAINS: [1] PEPPER, CARRAWAY, LOVAGE, THYME, ORIGANY, SHALLOTS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.
[276] WHITE SAUCE FOR DAINTY FOODIN COPADIIS[1]JUS ALBUM
TAKE CUMIN, LOVAGE, RUE SEED, PLUMS FROM DAMASCUS [2] SOAK IN WINE, ADD HONEY MEAD AND VINEGAR, THYME AND ORIGANY TO TASTE [3].
[1] Lacking definite description of thecopadiait is hard to differentiate between them and theoffelæ.—Cupedia(Plaut. and Goll.), nice dainty dishes, fromcupiditas, appetite, desire for dainty fare. Hencecupedinarius(Terent.) andcupediarius(Lamprid.) a seller or maker of dainties, a confectioner.
[2]Damascena; they correspond apparently to our present stewed (dried) prunes. It is inconceivable how this sauce can be white in color, but, as a condiment and if taken in small quantity, it has our full approval.
[3] G.-V.agitabis, i.e. stir the sauce with a whip of thyme and origany twigs. Cf. note to following.
[277] ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR APPETIZERSALITER JUS CANDIDUM IN COPADIIS
IS MADE THUS [1] PEPPER, THYME, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, FENNEL, RUE, MINT [2], MYRTLE BERRIES, RAISINS, RAISINWINE, AND MEAD TO TASTE; STIR IT WITH A TWIG OF SATURY [3].
[1] Tor.
[2] G.-V., rue wanting.
[3] An ingenious way to impart a very subtle flavor. The sporadic discoveries of such very subtle and refined methods (cf. notes to ℞ No.15) should dispell once and for all time the old theories that the ancients were using spices to excess. They simply used a greater variety of flavors and aromas than we do today, but there is no proof that spices were used excessively. The great variety of flavors at the disposal of the ancients speaks well for the refinement of the olfactory sense and the desire to bring variety into their fare. Cf. ℞ Nos.345,369and385.
[278] SAUCE FOR TIDBITSJUS IN COPADIIS
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, MINT, LEAVES OF SPIKENARD (WHICH THE GREEKS CALL “NARDOSACHIOM”) [sic!] [1] YOLKS, HONEY, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. STIR WELL WITH SATURY AND LEEKS [2] AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] Tor. [sic!]spicam nardi—sentence wanting in other texts. G.-V.nardostachyum, spikenard.
[2] A fagot of satury and leeks! Cf. notes to ℞ Nos.276and277.
[279] WHITE SAUCE FOR TIDBITSJUS ALBUM IN COPADIIS
IS MADE THUS: [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, THYME, NUTS, WHICH SOAK AND CLEAN, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL TO BE ADDED [2].
[1, 2] First three and last three words in Tor.
[280] SAUCE FOR TIDBITSJUS IN COPADIIS
PEPPER, CELERY SEED, CARRAWAY, SATURY, SAFFRON, SHALLOTS, TOASTED ALMONDS, FIGDATES, BROTH, OIL AND A LITTLE MUSTARD; COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST.
[281] SAUCE FOR TIDBITSJUS IN COPADIIS
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, SHALLOTS, TOASTED ALMONDS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL.
[282] SAUCE FOR TIDBITSJUS IN COPADIIS
CHOP HARD EGGS, PEPPER, CUMIN, PARSLEY, COOKED LEEKS, MYRTLE BERRIES, SOMEWHAT MORE HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.
[283] RAW DILL SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHIN ELIXAM ANETHATUM CRUDUM
PEPPER, DILL SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, POUR UNDER: VINEGAR, DATE WINE, HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST AND OIL TO TASTE; AND SERVE IT WITH ROAST PORK SHOULDER.
[284] BRINY SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHJUS IN ELIXAM ALLECATUM
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, THYME, SHALLOTS, DATES, FISH BRINE [1] STRAINED HONEY, AND WINE TO TASTE; SPRINKLE WITH CHOPPED GREEN CELERY AND OIL AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V.allecem; Tor.Halecem.
PAUNCHVENTRICULA
[285] PIG’S PAUNCHVENTREM PORCINUM
CLEAN THE PAUNCH OF A SUCKLING PIG WELL WITH SALT AND VINEGAR AND PRESENTLY WASH WITH WATER. THEN FILL IT WITH THE FOLLOWING DRESSING: PIECES OF PORK POUNDED IN THE MORTAR, THREE BRAINS—THE NERVES REMOVED—MIX WITH RAW EGGS, ADD NUTS, WHOLE PEPPER, AND SAUCE TO TASTE. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SILPHIUM, ANISE, GINGER, A LITTLE RUE; FILL THE PAUNCH WITH IT, NOT TOO MUCH, THOUGH, LEAVING PLENTY OF ROOM FOR EXPANSION LEST IT BURSTS WHILE BEING COOKED. PUT IT IN A POT WITH BOILING WATER, RETIRE AND PRICK WITH A NEEDLE SO THAT IT DOES NOT BURST. WHEN HALF DONE, TAKE IT OUT AND HANG IT INTO THE SMOKE TO TAKE ON COLOR; NOW BOIL IT OVER AGAIN AND FINISH IT LEISURELY. NEXT TAKE THE BROTH, SOME PURE WINE AND A LITTLE OIL, OPEN THE PAUNCH WITH A SMALL KNIFE. SPRINKLE WITH THE BROTH AND LOVAGE; PLACE THE PIG NEAR THE FIRE TO HEAT IT, TURN IT AROUND IN BRAN [or bread crumbs] IMMERSE IN [sprinkle with] BRINE AND FINISH [the outer crust to a golden brown] [1].
[1] The good old English way of finishing a roast joint called dredging.
Lister has this formula divided into two; Danneil and Schuch make three different formulas out of it.
LOINS AND KIDNEYSLUMBI ET RENES
[286] ROAST LOINS MADE THUSLUMBULI ASSI ITA FIUNT
SPLIT THEM INTO TWO PARTS SO THAT THEY ARE SPREAD OUT [1] SPRINKLE THE OPENING WITH CRUSHED PEPPER AND [ditto] NUTS, FINELY CHOPPED CORIANDER AND CRUSHED FENNEL SEED. THE TENDERLOINS ARE THEN ROLLED UP TO BE ROASTED; TIE TOGETHER, WRAP IN CAUL, PARBOIL IN OIL [2] AND BROTH, AND THEN ROAST IN THE OVEN OR BROIL ON THE GRIDIRON.
[1] “Frenched,” the meat here being pork tenderloin.
[2] G.-V. best broth and a little oil, which is more acceptable.
HAMPERNA
[287] [Baked Picnic] HAM [Pork Shoulder, fresh or cured]PERNAM
THE HAM SHOULD BE BRAISED WITH A GOOD NUMBER OF FIGS AND SOME THREE LAUREL LEAVES; THE SKIN IS THEN PULLED OFF AND CUT INTO SQUARE PIECES; THESE ARE MACERATED WITH HONEY. THEREUPON MAKE DOUGH CRUMBS OF FLOUR AND OIL [1] LAY THE DOUGH OVER OR AROUND THE HAM, STUD THE TOP WITH THE PIECES OF THE SKIN SO THAT THEY WILL BE BAKED WITH THE DOUGH [bake slowly] AND WHEN DONE, RETIRE FROM THE OVEN AND SERVE [2].
[1] Ordinary pie or pastry dough, or perhaps a preparation similar to streusel, unsweetened.
[2] Experimenting with this formula, we have adhered to the instructions as closely as possible, using regular pie dough to envelop the parboiled meat. The figs were retired from the sauce pan long before the meat was done and they were served around the ham as a garnish. As a consequence we partook of a grand dish that no inmate of Olympus would have sneezed at.
In Pompeii an inn-keeper had written the following on the wall of his establishment:Ubi perna cocta est si convivæ apponitur non gustat pernam linguit ollam aut caccabum.
When we first beheld this message we took the inn-keeper for a humorist and clever advertiser; but now we are convinced that he was in earnest when he said that his guests would lick the sauce pan in which his hams were cooked.
[288] TO COOK PORK SHOULDERPERNÆ[1]COCTURAM
HAM SIMPLY COOKED IN WATER WITH FIGS IS USUALLY DRESSED ON A PLATTER [baking pan] SPRINKLED WITH CRUMBS AND REDUCED WINE, OR, STILL BETTER, WITH SPICED WINE [and is glazed under the open flame, or with a shovel containing red-hot embers].
[1]Pernais usually applied to shoulder of pork, fresh, also cured.
Coxais the hind leg, or haunch of pork, or fresh ham. Cf. note 1 to ℞ No.289.
[289] FRESH HAMMUSTEIS[1]PETASONEM[2]
A FRESH HAM IS COOKED WITH 2 POUNDS OF BARLEY AND 25 FIGS. WHEN DONE SKIN, GLAZE THE SURFACE WITH A FIRE SHOVEL FULL OF GLOWING COALS, SPREAD HONEY OVER IT, OR, WHAT’S BETTER: PUT IT IN THE OVEN COVERED WITH HONEY. WHEN IT HAS A NICE COLOR, PUT IN A SAUCE PAN RAISIN WINE, PEPPER, A BUNCH OF RUE AND PURE WINE TO TASTE. WHEN THIS [sauce] IS DONE, POUR HALF OF IT OVER THE HAM AND IN THE OTHER HALF SOAK SPECIALLY MADE GINGER BREAD [3] THE REMNANT OF THE SAUCE AFTER MOST OF IT IS THOROUGHLY SOAKED INTO THE BREAD, ADD TO THE HAM [4].
[1]Musteus, fresh, young, new;vinum mustum, new wine, must. Properly perhaps,Petasonem ex mustaceis; cf. note 3.
[2] Hum.verum petaso coxa cum crure[shank]esse dicitur....
Plainly, we are dealing here with fresh, uncured ham.
[3] A certain biscuit or cake made of must, spices and pepper, perhaps baked on laurel leaves.Mustaceuswas a kind of cake, the flour of which had been kneaded with must, cheese, anise, etc., the cake was baked upon laurel leaves.
[4] Tor. continues without interruption. He has the three foregoing formulæ thrown into one.
[290] BACON, SALT PORKLARIDI[1]COCTURA
COVER WITH WATER AND COOK WITH PLENTY OF DILL; SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE OIL AND A TRIFLE OF SALT.
[1] Lister, at this point, has forgotten his explanation oflaridum, and now accepts the word in its proper sense. This rather belated correction by Listerconfirms the correctness of our own earlier observations. Cf. note to ℞ Nos.41and148.
LIVERS AND LUNGSJECINORA SIVE PULMONES
[291] SHEEP LIVERJECINORA HŒDINA VEL AGNINA[1]
COOK THUS: MAKE A MIXTURE OF WATER, MEAD, EGGS AND MILK IN WHICH THOROUGHLY SOAK THE SLICED LIVER. STEW THE LIVER IN WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V.Iecinera hœdina.
[292] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK LUNGALITER IN PULMONIBUS
LIVER AND LUNG ARE ALSO COOKED THIS WAY: [1] SOAK WELL IN MILK, STRAIN IT OFF IF OFFENSIVE IN TASTE [2] BREAK 2 EGGS AND ADD A LITTLE SALT, MIX IN A SPOONFUL HONEY AND FILL THE LUNG WITH IT, BOIL AND SLICE [3].
[1] Tor.
[2] Lungs of slaughtered animals are little used nowadays. The soaking of livers in milk is quite common; it removes the offensive taste of the gall.
[3] G.-V. continue without interruption.
[293] A HASH OF LIVERALITER
CRUSH PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, RAISIN WINE, PURE OIL, CHOP THE LIGHTS [1] FINE AND ADD WINE SAUCE [2].
[1] Edible intestines, livers, lung, kidney, etc., are thus named.
[2] List., Tor., G.-V. have both recipes in one. Dann. is in doubt whether to separate them or not.
HOME-MADE SWEET DISHES AND HONEY SWEET-MEATSDULCIA DOMESTICA[1]ET MELCÆ
[294] HOME-MADE SWEETSDULCIA DOMESTICA
LITTLE HOME CONFECTIONS (WHICH ARE CALLED DULCIARIA) ARE MADE THUS: [2] LITTLE PALMS OR (AS THEYARE ORDINARILY CALLED) [3] DATES ARE STUFFED—AFTER THE SEEDS HAVE BEEN REMOVED—WITH A NUT OR WITH NUTS AND GROUND PEPPER, SPRINKLED WITH SALT ON THE OUTSIDE AND ARE CANDIED IN HONEY AND SERVED [4].
[1]Dulcia, sweetmeats, cakes; hencedulciarius, a pastry cook or confectioner.
The fact that here attention is drawn to home-made sweet dishes may clear up the absence of regular baking and dessert formulæ in Apicius. The trade of thedulciariuswas so highly developed at that time that the professional bakers and confectioners supplied the entire home market with their wares, making it convenient and unprofitable for the domestic cook to compete with their organized business, a condition which largely exists in our modern highly civilized centers of population today. Cf. “Cooks.”
[2 + 3] Tor.
[4] Still being done today in the same manner.
[295] ANOTHER SWEETMEATALITER DULCIA
GRATE [scrape, peel] SOME VERY BEST FRESH APHROS [1] AND IMMERSE IN MILK. WHEN SATURATED PLACE IN THE OVEN TO HEAT BUT NOT TO DRY OUT; WHEN THOROUGHLY HOT RETIRE FROM OVEN, POUR OVER SOME HONEY, STIPPLE [the fruit] SO THAT THE HONEY MAY PENETRATE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE.
[1] Tor., Tac., Lan.musteos aphros; Vat. Ms., G.-V.afros; List.apios, i.e. celery, which is farthest from the mark. Goll. interprets this a “cider apple,” reminiscent, probably, ofmusteos, which is fresh, new, young, and which has here nothing to do with cider.
Aphrosis not identified. Perhaps the term stood for Apricots (Old English: Aphricocks) or some other African fruit or plant; Lister’s celery is to be rejected on gastronomical grounds.
The above treatment would correspond to that which is given apricots and peaches today. They are peeled, immersed in cream and sweetened with sugar. Apicius’ heating of the fruit in milk is new to us; it sounds good, for it has a tendency to parboil any hard fruit, make it more digestible and reduce the fluid to a creamy consistency.
[2] The “pepper” again, as pointed out in several other places, here is some spice of agreeable taste as are used in desserts today.
[296] ANOTHER SWEET DISHALITER DULCIA
BREAK [slice] FINE WHITE BREAD, CRUST REMOVED, INTO RATHER LARGE PIECES WHICH SOAK IN MILK [and beaten eggs] FRY IN OIL, COVER WITH HONEY AND SERVE [1].
[1] “French” Toast, indeed!—Sapienti sat!
[297] ANOTHER SWEETALITER DULCIA
IN A CHAFING-DISH PUT [1] HONEY, PURE WINE, RAISIN WINE, RUE, PINE NUTS, NUTS, COOKED SPELT, ADD CRUSHED AND TOASTED HAZELNUTS [2] AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V.Piperato mittis.Piperatumis a dish prepared with pepper, any spicy dish; the term may here be applied to the bowl in which the porridge is served. Tac.Dulcia piperata mittis.
[2] Dann. Almonds.
[298] ANOTHER SWEETALITER DULCIA
CRUSH PEPPER, NUTS, HONEY, RUE, AND RAISIN WINE WITH MILK, AND COOK THE MIXTURE [1] WITH A FEW EGGS WELL WORKED IN, COVER WITH HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH [crushed nuts, etc.] AND SERVE.
[1]Tractam, probably with a starch added, or else it is a nut custard, practically a repetition of ℞ Nos.129and143.
[299] ANOTHER SWEETALITER DULCIA
TAKE A PREPARATION SIMILAR [1] [to the above] AND IN THE HOT WATER [bath or double boiler] MAKE A VERY HARD PORRIDGE OF IT. THEREUPON SPREAD IT OUT ON A PAN AND WHEN COOL CUT IT INTO HANDY PIECES LIKE SMALL COOKIES. FRY THESE IN THE BEST OIL, TAKE THEM OUT, DIP INTO [hot] HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE.
[1] This confirms the assumption that some flour or meal is used in ℞ No.298also without which this present preparation would not “stand up.”
[2] It is freely admitted that the word “pepper” not always stands for the spice that we know by this name. Cf. note 2 to ℞ No.295et al.
[300] A STILL BETTER WAYALITER
IS TO PREPARE THIS WITH MILK INSTEAD OF WATER.
[301] CUSTARDTYROPATINAM
ESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF MILK NECESSARY FOR THIS DISH AND SWEETEN IT WITH HONEY TO TASTE; TO A PINT [1] OF FLUID TAKE 5 EGGS; FOR HALF A PINT [2] DISSOLVE 3 EGGS IN MILK AND BEAT WELL TO INCORPORATE THOROUGHLY, STRAIN THROUGH A COLANDER INTO AN EARTHEN DISH AND COOK ON A SLOW FIRE [inhot water bath in oven]. WHEN CONGEALED SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [3].
[1]Sextarium.
[2]ad heminam.
[3] Dann. calls this a cheese cake, which is a far-fetched conclusion, although standard dictionaries say that thetyropatinais a kind of cheese cake. It must be borne in mind, however, that the ancient definition of “custard” is “egg cheese,” probably because of the similarity in appearance and texture.
Cf. ℞ Nos.129and143.
[302] OMELETTE SOUFFLÉE [1]OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE
FOUR EGGS IN HALF A PINT OF MILK AND AN OUNCE OF OIL WELL BEATEN, TO MAKE A FLUFFY MIXTURE; IN A PAN PUT A LITTLE OIL, AND CAREFULLY ADD THE EGG PREPARATION, WITHOUT LETTING IT BOIL [2] HOWEVER. [Place it in the oven to let it rise] AND WHEN ONE SIDE IS DONE, TURN IT OUT INTO A SERVICE PLATTER [fold it] POUR OVER HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [3] AND SERVE [4].
[1] Dann. misled by the title, interprets this dish as “Floating Island”; he, the chef, has completely misunderstood the ancient formula.
[2] Tor.sinas bullire—which is correct. List.facies ut bulliat—which is monstrous.
[3] G.-V.
[4] Tor. continues without interruption.
[303] CHEESE AND HONEYMEL ET CASEUM[1]
PREPARE [cottage] CHEESE EITHER WITH HONEY AND BROTH [brine] OR WITH SALT, OIL AND [chopped] CORIANDER [2].
[1] G.-V.Melca ... stum; List.mel castum, refined honey; Tac.Mel caseum; Tor.mel, caseum. Cf. ℞ No.294.
[2] To season cottage (fresh curd) cheese today we use salt, pepper, cream, carraway or chopped chives; sometimes a little sugar.
[304] BULBS [1]BULBOS
SERVE WITH OIL, BROTH AND VINEGAR, WITH A LITTLE CUMIN SPRINKLED OVER.
[1] Onions, roots of tulips, narcissus. Served raw sliced, with the above dressing, or cooked. Cf. notes to ℞ No.307.
[305] ANOTHER WAYALITER
SOAK [1] THE BULBS AND PARBOIL THEM IN WATER; THEREUPON FRY THEM IN OIL. THE DRESSING MAKE THUS: TAKE THYME, FLEA-BANE, PEPPER, ORIGANY, HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, IF YOU LIKE [2] BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Tor.tundes; probably a typographical error, as this should readfundis, i.e.infundis. Wanting in the other texts.
[306] ANOTHER WAYALITER
COOK THE BULBS INTO A THICK PURÉE [1] AND SEASON WITH THYME, ORIGANY, HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL.
[1]Tundes, i.e. mash. Practically a correction of ℞ No.305, repeated by Tor.
[307] VARRO SAYS OF BULBS [1]VARRO SI QUID DE BULBIS DIXIT
COOKED IN WATER THEY ARE CONDUCIVE TO LOVE [2] AND ARE THEREFORE ALSO SERVED AT WEDDING FEASTS, BUT ALSO SEASONED WITH PIGNOLIA NUT OR WITH THE JUICE OF COLEWORT, OR MUSTARD, AND PEPPER.
[1] The first instance in Apicius where the monotony and business-like recital of recipes is broken by some interesting quotation or remark.
Brandt is of the opinion that this remark was added by a posterior reader.
[2] The texts:qui Veneris ostium quærunt—“seek the mouth of Venus.”
This favorite superstition of the ancients leads many writers, as might be expected, into fanciful speculations. Humelberg, quoting Martial, says:Veneram mirè stimulant, unde et salaces à Martiali vocantur.1. XIII, Ep. 34: