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TITLE PAGE, LYONS, 1541
This edition, printed in Lyons, France, in 1541, by Sebastian Gryphius is said to have been pirated from the Torinus edition given at Basel in the same year. Early printers stole copiously from one another, frequently reproduced books with hundreds of illustrations with startling speed. Gryphius corrected Torinus’ spelling of “P” [Bartholomæus] Platina, but note the spelling of “Lvg[v]dvni” (Lyons). Inscription by a contemporary reader over the griffin: “This [book] amuses me! Why make fun of me?”
Strange enough, there is another edition of this work, bearing the same editor’s name, printed at Lyons, France, in the same year. This edition, printed by Gryphius, bears the abbreviated title as follows:
Cælii || Apitii Svm || mi Advlatricis || Medicinæ Artificis, || De re Culinaria libri || Decem || B. Platinæ Cremonen || sis De Tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum & Popinæ || scientia Libri X, || Pauli Æginetæ De Facultatibus Alimentorum Tractatus, || Albano Torino Inter || prete.
The lower center of the title page is occupied by the Gryphius printer’s device, a griffin standing on a box-like pedestal, supported by a winged globe. On the left of the device: “virtute duci,” on the right: “comite fortuna”; directly underneath: “Apvd Seb. Gryphivm, Lvgvdvni [sic], 1541.” Sm. 8vo. Pages numbered, commencing with verso of title from 2-314. Sheets lettered same as Basel edition; on verso of title “Katalogos” etc. exactly like Basel. Page 3 commences with the same epistola dedicatoria. This dedication and the entire corpus of the book is printed in an awkward Italic type, except the captions which are in 6 pt. and 8 pt. Roman. The book is quite an unpleasant contrast with the fine Antiqua type and the generous margins of the Basel edition. Some woodcut initials but of small interest. The index, contrary to Basel, is in the back. The last page shows another printer’s device, differing from that on the title, another griffin.
This edition, though bearing Platina’s correct initial, B., has the fictitious title given to his work by Torinus, who probably possessed one of the earliest editions of Platina’s De honesta Voluptate, printed without a title page.
Altogether, this Lyons edition looks very much like a hurried job, and we would not be surprised to learn that it was pirated from the Basel edition.
The epistola dedicatoria, in which Torinus expresses fear of pirates and asks his patron’s protection, is concluded with the date, Basileæ, v. Idus Martias, Anno M. D. XLI., while the copy described by Vicaire appears to be without this date. Vicaire also says that the sheets of his copy are not numbered. He also reads on the title “Lvgdvni, 1541” which is spelled correctly, but not in accordance with the original. Of these two editions Vicaire says:
“Ces deux éditions portent la même date de 1541, mais celle qui a été publiée à Bâle a paru avant celle donnée à Lyon par Seb. Gryphe. Cette dernière, en effet, contient la dédicace datée.” The title page of our copy is inscribed by three different old hands, one the characteristic remark: “Mulcens me, gannis?” This copy is bound in the original vellum. Vicaire, 31, G.-Drexel, No. 12.
The work of Torinus has been subjected to a searching analysis, as will be shown throughout the book. An appreciation of Platina will be found in Platina, mæstro nell’arte culinaria Un’interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, by Agostino Cavalcabò, Cremona, 1935.
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TITLE PAGE, HUMELBERGIUS EDITION, ZÜRICH, 1542
The Gabriel Humelbergius edition is printed by Froschauer, one of the great printers of the Renaissance. Showing the autograph of Johannes Baptista Bassus. The best of the early Apicius editions.
In Hoc Opere Contenta. || Apicii Cælii || De Opsoniis et Condimentis, || Sive Arte Coqvina || ria, Libri X. || Item, || Gabrielis Humelbergij Medici, Physici || Isnensis in Apicij Cælij libros X. || Annotationes. || Tigvri in Officina || Froschouiana. Anno, || M.D. XLII.
4to, 123 sheets, pagination commences with title, not numbered. On verso of title a poem by Ioachim Egell, extolling Humelberg. Sheet 2 the dedication, dated “Isnæ Algoiæ, mense Maio, Anno à Christo nato, M.D.XLII.” Sheet 3-4 have the preface; on verso of 4 the names of the books of Apicius. On recto of sheet 5 the chapters of Book I; on verso commences the corpus of the work with Apicii Cælii Epimeles Liber I.
The Apicius text is printed in bold Roman, the copious notes by the editor in elegant Italics follow each book. Very instructive notes, fine margins, splendid printing. Altogether preferable to Torinus. Our copy is bound in the original vellum. Inscribed in old hand by Johannes Baptista Bassus on the title.
G.-Drexel, No. 14; Vicaire, 31; not in Pennell.
Apicii Cœlii || De || Opsoniis || Et || Condimentis, || Sive || Arte Coquinaria, || Libri Decem. || Cum Annotationibus Martini Lister, || è Medicis domesticis serenissimæ Ma || jestatis Reginæ Annæ || Et || Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, || Humelbergii, Caspari Barthii, || & Variorum. || Londini: || Typis Gulielmi Bowyer. MDCCV.
The first edition by Lister, limited to 120 copies.
8vo. The title in red and black. Original full calf, gilt. Pp. XIV + 231. Index 11 leaves, unnumbered. This scarce book is described by Vicaire, 32, but unknown to the collectors Drexel and Pennell. Our copy has on the inside front cover the label of the Dunnichen library. Above the same in an old hand: “Liber rarissimus Hujus editionis 120 tantum exemplaria impressa sunt.” On the fly leaf, in a different old hand a six line note in Latin, quoting the medieval scholar, G. J. Vossius, Aristarch. 1.13. p. 1336, on the authorship of Cœlius. Directly below in still another old hand, the following note, a rather pleasing passage, full of sentiment and affection for our subject, that deserves to be quoted in full: “Alas! that time is wanting to visit the island of Magellone [Megalona-Torinus] where formerly flourished a large town, of which there are now no other remains but the cathedral church, where, according to tradition, the beautiful Magellone lies buried by her husband Peter of Province.* Matthison’s letters, etc. pag. 269.
“‘* Jt was in the island of Magellone that Apicius’s ten books on cookery were rediscovered.’Ibid.—Vide Fabric. Biblioth: Lat: edit. ab Ernesti. vol. 2; p. 365.”
On the verso of the title page there is the printed note in Latin to the effect that 120 copies of this edition have been printed at the expense of eighteenentlemen whose names are given, among them “Isaac Newton, Esq.” and other famous men.
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TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, LONDON, 1705
The first Apicius edition by Martin Lister, Court Physician to Queen Anne. Printed in London in 1705 by the famous printer, William Bowyer. This is one of the rarest of the Apician books, the edition being limited to 120 copies. It has been said that the second edition (Amsterdam, 1709) was limited to 100 copies, but there is no evidence to that effect.
Lister’s preface to the reader occupies pp. I-XIV; the same appears in the 1709 (2nd) edition. The ten books of Apicius occupy pp. 1-231; the index comprises 11 unnumbered leaves; on the verso of the 11th leaf, the errata. One leaf for the “Catalogus” (not mentioned by Vicaire) a bibliography of the editor’s extensive writings, and works used in this edition principally upon nature and medical subjects. This list was ridiculed by Dr. King. Cf.Introductionby Frederick Starr to this present work. The last leaf blank. Our copy is in the original binding, and perfect in every respect.
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VERSO OF TITLE PAGE
of the first Lister edition, London, 1705, giving evidence of the edition being limited to 120 copies. This edition was done at the expense of the men named in this list. Note particularly “Isaac Newton, Esq.,” Sir Christopher Wren and a few more names famous to this day.}
Apicii Cœlii || De || Opsoniis || Et || Condimentis, || Sive || Arte Coquinaria, || Libri Decem. || Cum Annotationibus || Martini Lister, || è Medicis domesticis Serenissimæ Maje || statis Reginæ Annæ, || et || Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, || Humelbergii, Barthii, Reinesii, || A. van Der Linden, & Aliorum, || ut & Variarum Lectionum Libello. || Editio Secunda. || Longe auctior atque emendatior. || Amstelodami, || Apud Janssonio-Wæsbergios. || M D C C I X.
Small 8vo. Title in red and black. Dedication addressed to Martinus Lister by Theod. Jans. [sonius] of Almeloveen; the preface, M. Lister to the Reader, and the “Judicia et Testimonia de Apicio” by Olaus Borrichius and Albertus Fabricius occupy seventeen leaves. The ten books of Apicius, with the many notes by Lister, Humelberg and others, commence with page 1 and finish on page 277. Variæ Lectiones, 9 leaves; Index, 12 leaves, none numbered.
Vicaire, 32; Pennell, p. 112; G.-Drexel, No. 164. “Edition assez estimée. On peut l’annexer à la collection des Variorum d’après M. Græsse, Trésor des Livresrares et précieux.”—Vicaire. Our copy is in the original full calf gold stamped binding, with the ex libris of James Maidment.
The notes by Lister are more copious in this edition, which is very esteemed and is said to have been printed in 100 copies only, but there is no proof of this.
Typographically an excellent piece of work that would have done justice the Elzevirs.
Cælii Apicii || de || Opsoniis || et || Condimentis || sive || Arte Coquinaria || Libri X || cum || Lectionibus Variis || Atque Indice || editit || Joannes Michæl Bernhold || Comes Palatinatus Cæsareus, Phil. et || Med. D. Serenissimo Marchioni Bran || denburgico-Onoldino-Culbacensi || A Consiliis Aulæ, Physicus Suprema || rum Præfecturarum Vffenhemensis || et Creglingensis, Academiæ Imperiali || Naturæ Scrutatorum Adscriptus.
The first edition. The title page has a conspicuously blank space for the date etc. of the publication, but this is found at the foot of p. 81, where one reads: Marcobraitæ, Excudebat Joan. Val. Knenlein, M. D. CC. LXXXVII. 8vo. Fine large copy, bound in yellow calf, gilt, with dentelles on edges and inside, by J. Clarke, the binding stamped on back, 1800. Dedication and preface, pp. XIV. The ten books of Apicius commence with p. 1 and finish on p. 81, with the date, as above. Index capitulum, pp. 82-85; Lectiones Variantes collectæ ex Editione Blasii Lanciloti, pp. 86-108, at the end of same: “Sedulo hæ Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti editione sunt excerpta ab Andrea Gözio Scholæ Sebaldinæ Norimbergiensis Collega.” Variantes Lectiones, Lib. I. Epimeles, pp. 109-112, with a note at the head of the same that these variants occur in the Vatican MS. These four pages are repeated in the next chapter, pp. 113-130, “Variæ Lectiones Manuscripti Vaticani,” headed by the same note, the text of which is herewith given in full. Bernhold states that these Variæ Lectiones have been taken from the second Lister edition (No.8) where they are found following p. 277. The first Lister edition does not contain these Variæ, nor does Lister have the Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti. The following note to the Vatican variants appears in the second Lister edition also:
“Apicii collatio cum antiquissimo codice, literis fere iisdem, quibus Pandectæ Florentinæ, scripto; qui seruatur hodie Romæ in Bibliotheca Vaticana, inter libros MSS., qui fuere Ducis Vrbinatium, sed, nostris temporibus extincta illa familia Ducali, quæ Ducatum istum a Romanis Pontificibus in feudum tenuerat, Vrbino Romam translati, et separato loco in bibliotheca Vaticana respositi sunt. Contulit Henricus Volkmarus [Lister: Volkmas] Scherzerus, Lipsiensis. E bibliotheca Marquardii Gudii ad I. A. Fabricium, et, ex huius dono, ad Theodorum Ianssonium ab Almeloueen transmigrauere; qui illas suæ, Amstelodami 1709 8vo in lucem prolatæ; Apicii editioni inseri curauit.”
“Apicii collatio cum antiquissimo codice, literis fere iisdem, quibus Pandectæ Florentinæ, scripto; qui seruatur hodie Romæ in Bibliotheca Vaticana, inter libros MSS., qui fuere Ducis Vrbinatium, sed, nostris temporibus extincta illa familia Ducali, quæ Ducatum istum a Romanis Pontificibus in feudum tenuerat, Vrbino Romam translati, et separato loco in bibliotheca Vaticana respositi sunt. Contulit Henricus Volkmarus [Lister: Volkmas] Scherzerus, Lipsiensis. E bibliotheca Marquardii Gudii ad I. A. Fabricium, et, ex huius dono, ad Theodorum Ianssonium ab Almeloueen transmigrauere; qui illas suæ, Amstelodami 1709 8vo in lucem prolatæ; Apicii editioni inseri curauit.”
On pp. 131-154 are found the Lectiones Variantes Humelbergianæ, and onpp. 155-156 the Lectiones differentes etc. On pp. 157-228 the Index Vocabulorum ac Rerum notabiliorum etc.; on pp. 229-30 the Notandum adhuc. One blank leaf.
Described by Vicaire, 33, who has only seen the 1791 edition; G.-Drexel, No. 165; Brunet I. 343. Neither Vicaire nor Georg-Drexel have the date and place of publication, which in our copy is hidden on p. 81.
Georg reads Apicii Cœlii instead of the above. On the fly leaf the autograph of G. L. Fournier, Bayreuth, 1791.
Bernhold has based his edition upon Lister and on the edition by Blasius Lancilotus, Milan, 1490, (our No.2, which see.) Aside from the preface in which Bernhold names this and other Apicius editions, unknown to the bibliographers, the editor has not added any of his own observations. Being under the influence of Lister, he joins the English editor in the condemnation of Torinus. His work is valuable because of the above mentioned variants.
[Same as above] The Second Edition. Vicaire, 33. not in G.-Drexel nor Pennell.
Apitius Cœlius de re culinaria. Ed. Bernhold. 8vo. Ansbachii, 1800.
Ex Georg, No. 1076; not in Vicaire nor in Pennell. Though listed by Georg, it is not in the Drexel collection.
Apitius Cælius Delle vivande e condimenti ovvero dell’ arte de la cucina. Volgarizzamento con annotationi di G. Baseggio.
8vo, pp. 238. With the original Latin text. Venezia, 1852, Antonelli.
Ex Georg-Drexel, No. 1077.
Apici Cæli || De || Re Coquinaria Libri Decem. || Novem codicum ope adiutus, auxit, resti || tuit, emendavit, et correxit, variarum || lectionum parte potissima ornavit, stric || tim et interim explanavit || Chr. Theophil. Schuch. || Heidelbergæ, 1867.
8vo. pp. 202.
Ex Vicaire, 33; Not in G.-Drexel, not in Pennell.
[The same]Editio Secunda Heidelbergæ, 1874, [Winter].
Although G.-Drexel, No. 1075, reads Apitius Cœlius, our copy agrees with the reading of Vicaire, col. 889, appendix. Not in Pennell. Brandt (Untersuchungen [No.29] p. 6) calls SchuchWunderlicher Querkopf. He is correct. The Schuch editions are eccentric, worthless.
Das Apicius-Kochbuch aus der altrömischen Kaiserzeit.Ins Deutsche übersetzt und bearbeitet von Richard Gollmer. Mit Nachbildungen alter Kunstblätter, Kopfleisten und Schlusstücke. Breslau und Leipzig bei Alfred Langewort, 1909. 8vo. pp. 154.
Apicius Cælius: Altrömische Kochkunst in zehn Büchern.Bearbeitet und ins Deutsche übersetzt von Eduard Danneil, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur. Leipzig: 1911: Herausgabe und Verlag: Kurt Däweritz, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur Obermeister der Innung der Köche zu Leipzig und Umgebung. 8vo, pp. XV + 127.
Apicii || Librorvm X qvi Dicvntvr || De Re Coqvinaria || Qvæ Extant || Edidervnt || C. Giarratano et Fr. Vollmer || Lipsiæ in Ædibvs B. G. Tevbneri MCMXXII.
Les dix livres de cuisine d’Apiciustraduits du latin pour la Première fois et commentés par Bertrand Guégan. Paris René Bonnel Éditeur rue Blanche, No. 8.
No date (in fineOctober 16th, 1933). Three blank leaves, false title; on verso, facing the title page (!) “du mème auteur”—a full-page advertisement of the author’s many-sided publications, past and future. Title page, verso blank. On p. ixIntroduction, a lengthy discourse on dining in ancient times, including a mention of Apician manuscripts and editions. This commences on p. Li withLes Manuscrits d’Apicius. TheIntroductionfinishes on p. Lxxviii. On p. 1Les Dix Livres d’Apicius, on p. 2 a facsimile in black of theincipitof the Vatican manuscript, ApicianaII. On p. 3 commences the translation into French of the Apician text, finishing on p. 308.Table Analytique(index) pp. 309-322. Follow three unnumbered sheets, on the first page of which is theJustification du tirage, with the date of printing and the printer’s name, Durand of Chartres. The copies printed are numbered from 1 to 679. The copy before us is No. 2; copies 1 to 4 are printed on Montval vellum, 5 to 29 on Dutch Pannekoek vellum, the rest, 30 to 679 on Vidalon vellum paper.
Unfortunately, the present work did not reach us until after ours had gone to press. The text of this edition, the first to appear in the French language, could not be considered in our work, for this reason.
However, a few casual remarks about it may be in order here.
A hasty perusal reveals the disconcerting fact that the editor has been influenced by and has followed the example of Schuch by the adoption of his system of numbering the recipes. We do not approve of his inclusion of the excerpts of Vinidarius in the Apician text.
The observations presented in this edition are rich and varied. The material,comprising theIntroductionand also the explanatory notes to the recipes are interesting, copious and well-authenticated. The editor reveals himself to be a better scholar, well-read in the classics, than a practical cook, well-versed in kitchen practice. Frequently, for instance, he confoundsliquamenwithgarum, the age-old shortcoming of the Apician scholars.
The advertisement facing the title page of this work is misplaced, disturbing.
Nevertheless, we welcome this French version which merits a thorough study; this we hope to publish at some future date. Any serious and new information on Apicius is welcome and much needed to clear up the mysteries. The advent of a few additional cooks on the scene doesn’t matter. Let them give lie to the old proverb that too many cooks spoil the broth. Apicius has been so thoroughly scrambled during the sixteen-hundred years preceding his first printing which started the scholars after him. So far, with the exception of a few minor instances, they have done remarkably well. The complete unscrambling can be done only by many new cooks, willing to devote much pain and unremunerative, careful, patient work in discovering new evidence and adding it to what there is already, to arrive at the truth of the matter.
Apicius, J. D. Vehling, the present edition.
De Re Coquinaria. Von Speisen.Natürlichen und Kreuterwein, aller Verstandt. Vber den Zusatz viler bewerter Künst, insonders fleissig gebessert und corrigirt aus Apitio, Platina, Varrone, Bapt. Fiera cet.’; Francofurti, apud Egenolfum, 1531, 4to.
Ex Bernhold, p. XIV, unknown to the bibliographers. The above is related to the following two works. Apparently, all three have little bearing on Apicius.
Polyonymi Syngraphei Schola Apiciana.Ibid. 1534, 4to.
Ex Bernhold, p. XIV., unknown to the bibliographers. Copy in the Baron Pichon collection, No. 569.
Schola || Apitiana, Ex Op || timis Qvibvs || dam authoribus diligen || ter ac nouiter constru || cta, authore Polyo || nimo Syngra || pheo. || A C Gessere Dia || logi aliquot D. Erasmi Ro || terodami, & alia quædam || lectu iucundissima. || Væneunt Antuerpiæ in ædi || bus Ioannis Steelsij. || I. G. 1535.Small 8vo. Title in beautiful woodcut border. [in fine]Typis Ioan. Graphei. M.D.XXXV.
Pagination A-I 4, on verso of I 4, device of Io. Steels, Concordia, with doveson square and astronomical globe. On verso of title, In Scholam Apitianam Præfatio. Sheet A3 Mensam Amititiæ Sacram esse, etc. On sheet A6 The dialogue by Erasmus of Rotterdam between Apitivs and Spvdvs to verso of sheet A8; follows: Conviviarvm qvis nvmervs esse debeat [etc.] ex Aulo Gellio; Præcepta Cœnarvm by Horace; De Ciborvm Ratione by Michæle Savonarola [Grandfather of the great Girolamo S.]; on sheet C5 De Cibis Secvndæ Mensæ, by Paulus Aegineta; and a number of other quotations from ancient and medieval authors, partly very amusing. The Apician matter seems to be entirely fictitious.
In the collection of the author. Vicaire, 701, who also describes in detail the 1534 edition printed by Egenolph but which is not the same as the above in text.
Flora Apiciana.Dierbach, J. H. Ein Beitrag zur näheren Kenntniss der Nahrungsmittel der alten Römer. Heidelberg, 1831, Groos. 8vo.
H. C. Coote: The Cuisine Bourgeoise of Ancient Rome.Archæologia, vol. XLI.
Ex Bibliotheca A. Shircliffe.
Cesare Giarratano: I Codici dei Libri de re coquinaria di Celio.Naples, 1912, Detken & Rocholl.
Friedrich Vollmer: Studien zu dem römischen Kochbuche von Apicius.Vorgetragen am 7. Februar 1920. Sitzungsberichte der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften Philosophisch-philologische und historische Klasse Jahrgang, 1920, 6. Abhandlung. München, 1920. Verlag der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften in Kommission des G. Franzschen Verlags (J. Roth).
G. Sternajolo: Codices Vrbinati Latini.
Untersuchungen zum römischen KochbucheVersuch einer Lösung der Apicius-Frage von Edward Brandt, Leipzig, Dietrich’sche Verlagsbuchhandlung, 1927. Philologus, Supplementband XIX, Heft III. 164 pp.
Dr. Edward Brandt, the philologist of Munich, is the latest of the Apician commentators. His researches are quite exhaustive. While not conclusive (as some of the problems will perhaps never be solved) he has shed much new light on the vexatious questions of the origin and the authors of our old Roman cookery book.
APICIANÆ FINIS
CANTHARUS, WINE CUP WITH HANDLES
Elaborate decoration of Bacchic motifs: wine leaves and masks of satyrs. Hildesheim Treasure.
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWYZ
A
Abalana, Abellana, hazelnut, seeAvellana
Abbreviations, explanation of, p.xv
ABDOMEN, sow’s udder, belly, fat of lower part of belly, figur. Gluttony, intemperance
ABROTANUM, —ONUM, —ONUS the herb lad’s love; or, according to most Southernwood. ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa
Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The Romans used A. from several parts of the world. ℞3, also APSINTHIUM
ABSINTHIATUS, —UM, flavored with wormwood, ℞3
ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with wormwood; modern absinth or Vermouth, cf. ℞3
ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, ℞3
ABUA, a small fish; seeAPUA, ℞138,139,147
ACER, ACEO, ACIDUM, to be or to make sour, tart
ACETABULUM, a “vinegar” cruet: a small measure, equivalent to 15 Attic drachms; seeMeasures
ACETUM, vinegar—— MULSUM, mead
ACICULA, ACUS, the needle fish, or horn-back, or horn-beak; a long fish with a snout sharp like a needle; the gar-fish, or sea-needle
ACIDUM, sour; same asACER
ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine
ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones
ACINUS, —UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or kernel
ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, ℞145; also seeSTYRIO
ACOR, —UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, gardenflag, galangale
ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness of taste
ACUS, same asACICULA
Adjustable Table, illustration, p.138
ADULTERAM, “tempting” dish, ℞192
Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp.33,39, seq.147; ℞6,7,9,15,17,18. Also seeCookery, deceptive
Advertising cooked ham, ℞287
Advertising ancient hotels, p.6
Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, see Apiciana, No.5-6
AENEUM, a “metal” cooking utensil, aCACCABUS, which see; AENEUM VAS, a mixing bowl; AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver service platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes confused with oenococtum, stewed in wine
AËROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of BookVI, see p.141
Aethiopian Cumin ℞35
“AFFE” (Ger.) Monkey; ℞55; also seeCaramel Coloring
AGITARE (OVA), to stir, to beat (eggs)
AGNUS, IN AGNO, lamb; AGNINUS, pertaining to L. ℞291seq.,355,364,495—— COPADIA AGNINA, ℞355seq.—— AGNI COCTURA, ℞358—— ASSUS, ℞359—— AGNUM SIMPLICEM, ℞495—— TARPEIANUS, ℞363
AGONIA, cattle sacrificed at the festivals: only little of the victims was wasted at religious ceremonies. The priests, after predicting the future from the intestines, burned them but sold the carcass to the innkeeper and cooks of the POPINA, hence the name. These eating places of a low order did a thriving business with cheaply bought meats which, however, usually were of the best quality. In Pompeii such steaks were exhibited in windows behind magnifying glasses to attract the rural customer
Albino, writer, p.10
ALBUM, ALBUMEN, white; —— OVORUM, the “whites” of egg; —— PIPER, white pepper, etc.
ALEX, (ALEC, HALEC), salt water, pickle, brine, fish brine. Finally, the fish itself when cured in A. cf.MURIA
Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great, important Mediterranean harbor. A. was a rival of Rome and Athens in Antiquity, famous for its luxury
Alexandrine dishes ℞75,348, seq.
ALICA, spelt. ℞200
ALICATUM, any food treated withALEX, which see
ALLIATUM, a garlic sauce, consisting of a purée of pounded garlic whipped up with oil into a paste of a consistency of mayonnaise, a preparation still popular in the Provence today; finally, anything flavored with garlic or leeks
ALLIUM, garlic; also leek. Fr. AILLE
Almonds, AMYGDALA, peeling and bleaching of A. ℞57
AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew
AMBIGA, a small vessel in the shape of a pyramid
AMBOLATUS, unidentified term; p.172; ℞57, 59
Amerbach Manuscript, ApicianaXIV
AMMI, (AMMIUM, AMI, AMIUM), cumin
AMURCA (AMUREA), the lees of oil
AMYGDALA (—UM) Almonds, ℞57; OLEUM AMYGDALIUM, almond oil
AMYLARE (AMULARE), to thicken with flour. AMYLATUM (AMULATUM) that which is thickened with flour. Wheat or rice flour and fats or oil usually were used for this purpose, corresponding to our present roux. However, the term was also extended to the use of eggs for the purpose of thickening fluids, thus becoming equivalent to the present liaison, used for soups and sauces. Hence AMYLUM and AMULUM, which is also a sort of frumenty
Anacharsis, the Scythian, writer. He described a banquet at Athens during the Periclean age. pp.3,7
ANAS, a duck or drake; ℞212-17. ANATEM, ℞212; ANATEM EX RAPIS, ℞214
Anchovy, a small fish; ℞147; cf.APUA. —— forcemeat, ℞138; —— sauce andGARUM(which see) ℞37; —— omelette ℞147
ANET(H)ATUM, flavored with dill; ANET(H)UM, dill, also anise
ANGUILLA, eel, ℞466-7,484. cf.CONGRIO
ANGULARUS, a “square” dish or pan
ANISUM, anise, pimpinella
ANSER, goose, gander; IN ANSERE, ℞234; —— JUS CANDIDUM ℞228
ANTIPASTO, “Before the Meal,” modern Italian appetizer; the prepared article usually comes in cans or glasses, consisting of tunny, artichokes, olives, etc., preserved in oil
APER, seeAPRUS
APEXABO, a blood sausage; cf.LONGANO
Aphricocks, ℞295
APHROS, ℞295
APHYA, seeAPUA
Apician Cheesecakes, p.9—— cookery, influence, p.16,23—— Archetypus, p.19—— manuscripts, p.19, p.253, seq.—— Terminology, p.22—— dishes, compared with modern dishes, p.23—— sauces, p.24—— Style of writing, p.26—— research, p.34seq.
Apiciana, Diagram of, p.252
Apicius, pp.7,9—— The man, p.9—— Athenaeus on, p.9—— and Platina, p.9—— Expedition to find crawfish, p.9—— ships oysters, p.10—— school, p.10—— death, pp.10,11—— reflecting Roman conditions, pp.14,15—— authenticity of, pp.18,19—— writer, p.26, ℞176,436—— confirmed by modern science, p.33—— editors as cooks, p.34seq.
Apion, writer, quoted by Athenaeus, p.9
APIUM, celery, smallage, parsley. ℞104
APOTHERMA (—UM, APODERMUM) hot porridge, gruel, pudding. ℞57; cf.TISANA
APPARATUS, preparation; —— MENSAE, getting dinner ready
Appetizers. ℞174and others. According to Horace, eggs were the first dishes served. The “moveable appetizer” of Apicius is very elaborate, p.210
Appert, François, ℞24, father of the modern canning methods
Apples, ℞22,171
APRUS, APRUGNUS, wild boar. ℞329-38. APRINA, PERNA, ℞338, also APER
APUA (ABUA, APHYA), a small kind of fish, anchovy, sprat, whiting, white bait, or minnow. ℞138-9,146, cf.Pliny. Apua is also a town in Liguria; its inhabitants APUANI
AQUA, water; —— CALIDA, hot w.; —— CISTERNINA, well w.; —— MARINA, sea w.; —— NITRATA, soda w. for the cooking of vegetables; —— RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; —— PLUVIALE, rain w.
AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, stomach, maw
Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, seeApiciana Diagram
ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf.Cooks’ names
ARIDA (—US, —UM) dry; —— MENTHA, dry mint
ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon
ARTOCREAS, meat pie
ARTOPTES, Torinus’ title of BookII; better: SARCOPTES, minces, minced meats
ARTYMA, spice; cf.CONDIMENTUM
Asa foetida, use of —— ℞15, p.23
ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, wild spikenard
ASCALONICA CEPA, “scallion,” young onion
Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p.188, ℞72, —— and figpecker, ℞132, —— custard pie, ℞133
ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. ℞266-270
ASSUS, roast
ASTACUS, a crab or lobster
Athenaeus, writer, pp.3, seq.—— on Apicius, p.10
Athene, Dish illustration, p.158
ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach
ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerlyused for kitchen purposes, hence the name, “black room,” because of the smoky walls. Like all simple things then and now, the Atrium often developed into a magnificently decorated court, with fountains and marble statues, and became a sort of parlor to receive the guests of the house
ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game bird. ℞218, seq.
AURATA, a fish, “golden” dory, red snapper. ℞157,461,462
AVELLANA, hazelnut, filbert, Fr. AVELLINE—— NUX, —— NUCLEUS, kernel of f. ℞297and in the list of theExcerpta
AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, oats, wild oats
AVIBUS, IN— ℞220,21,24,27
AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer
AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible birds. —— HIRCOSAE, ill-smelling birds, ℞229-30, —— NE LIQUESCANT, ℞233
B
BACCA, berry, seed. —— MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; —— RUTAE, rue berry; —— LAUREA, laurel berry, etc.
Bacon, ℞285-90; see alsoSALSUM
BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes are named. ℞205. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM ——, FABAE, etc. ℞202,205,432; Baian Seafood Stew, ℞431
Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p.2
Bantam Chicken, ℞237
Barracuda, a fish, ℞158
Barley Broth, ℞172,200,247
BARRICA, ℞173
Barthélemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, p.8
Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No.13, p.270
BASILICUM, basil
Bavarian Cabbage, ℞87
Beans, ℞96,189,194-8,247; Green —— ℞247; —— sauté, ℞203; —— in mustard, ℞204—— Baian style, ℞202—— “Egyptian,” seeCOLOCASIUM
Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf.Styrio
Beef, p.30; shortage of —— diet, p.30—— “Beef Eaters,” p.30—— dishes, ℞351, seq.
Beets, ℞70,97,98,183—— named for Varro, ℞70,97,98
Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p.258
Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos.2-3,12-14, pp.258, seq.
BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, ℞70
Bibliographers of Apicius, seeApiciana
Birds, BookVI, ℞210-227; treatment of strong-smelling —— ℞229,230
BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to some interpreters
Boar, wild, ℞329-38, p.314
Boiled Dinners, ℞125
BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, ℞183
BOLETUS, mushroom, ℞309-14
Bordelaise, ℞351
Borrichius, Olaus, p.268
BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, ℞60. BOTULUS, a sausage, meat pudding, black pudding, ℞60,61,172
BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, ℞431,481
Bouquet garni, ℞138
BOVES, Beef cattle; cf.BUBULA
Bowls for mixing wine, etc., seeCrater—— for fruit or dessert, illustration, p.61
Brain Sausage, ℞45—— Custard, ℞128—— and bacon, ℞148—— and chicken with peas, ℞198
Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, ℞29,170, p.273
BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; —— CAMPESTRA, turnip; —— OLERACEA, cabbage and kale; —— MARINA, sea kale (?)
Bread, Alexandrine, ℞126; Picentian ——, ℞125. The methods of grinding flour and baking is illustrated with our illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, which see, pp.142,149. Apicius has no directions for baking, an art that was as highly developed in his days as was cookery
BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p.234
Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, ℞376
Broiler and Stove, illustration, p.182
Broth, seeLIQUAMEN; Barley ——, ℞172,200,201—— How to redeem a spoiled, ℞9
BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p.30, ℞351,352
BUBULUS CASEUS, cow’s cheese
BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a morsel, a mouth-full; Fr. BOUCHÉE; BUCELLA (dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate morsel; hence probably, Ger. “Buss’l” a little kiss and “busseln,” to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern German dialect
BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier’s bread, hard tack
BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, ℞285,304-8
BULBI FRICTI, ℞308
BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR
BUTYRUM, butter. Was little used in ancient households, except for cosmetics. Cows were expensive, climate and sanitary conditions interfered with its use in the Southern kitchen. The Latin butyrum is said to derive from the German Butter
C
CABBAGE, ℞87-92,103; p.188Bavarian, ℞87Ingenious way of cooking, ℞88Chartreuse, ℞469