{175} CHAPTER XXVIII
Departure from Lexington—Bryan’s station—Wonderful fertility of soil—Paris—Sameness of prospect—Simplicity of election of state representatives—Frank bird—Hasten on—Violent attack of fever at May’s-lick—Washington—Occasional remarks on hospitality—Maysville—Good effects of fortitude and abstinence.
Departure from Lexington—Bryan’s station—Wonderful fertility of soil—Paris—Sameness of prospect—Simplicity of election of state representatives—Frank bird—Hasten on—Violent attack of fever at May’s-lick—Washington—Occasional remarks on hospitality—Maysville—Good effects of fortitude and abstinence.
I left Lexington on Tuesday the 4th August, by a different road to that by which I had first entered it, now taking the stage and post road direct to Paris.
The morning was fine, the road good, and the country well settled and improved, but the want of the company of my worthy friend A——, to which I had now been so long accustomed, was felt by me so sensibly as to make the miles appear uncommonly long.
At four miles I passed a celebrated old military post, called Bryan’s station, where the first settlers of the state, repelled a desperate attack of the Indians, who soon after in their turn, ambushed and cut off Col. Todd’s little army at the Blue licks, as before mentioned. This post is now the pleasant seat and fine farm of a Mr. Rogers.[133]
I soon after overtook an Irishman named Gray, who was one of the first settlers. He rode two miles with me, and was intelligent and communicative. He informed me that the usual produce of an acre of this wonderfully luxuriant soil, is from forty to fifty bushels of shelled corn, or from twenty to thirty-seven of wheat clean from the threshing floor. And here I must observe, that I have not seen, nor heard of any of the threshing machines now so common in the British European Isles, in any part of America. As they save so much labour, I am astonished that {176} they have not yet made their way across the Atlantick.—They would be of incalculable utility to the very wealthy farmers of Kentucky.
Crossing the North fork of Elkhorn, and Hewetson’s branch of Licking, both good mill streams, I entered Paris, eighteen miles from Lexington. It is situated on Stoner’s fork of Licking, and contains eighty-seven dwelling houses mostly good ones, several of them of brick, and six or seven building.
It is compact, in three small parallel streets, with a square in the centre, on which is a stone meeting house, a neatbrick court-house, a small but strong gaol, and a market house. It is the seat of justice of Bourbon county, and has much appearance of prosperity. From the cupola of the court-house, there is an extensive view of a very rich country as far as the eye can reach in every direction, but though it is a country of hills and dales, there is too great a sameness to please the eye.
Perhaps there is not on the earth a naturally richer country than the area of sixteen hundred square miles of which Lexington is the centre, yet there is a something wanting to please the eye of taste—a variety, like the fertile plains of the Milanese, contrasted with the neighbouring Alpine scenery, and studded with the noble lakes, and streaked with the meandering rivers of that delightful region, which has given such inimitable taste and execution to the pencils of so many eminent painters.
It was the day of election for representatives in the legislature of the state. The voting was very simple. The county clerk sat within the bar of the court-house, and the freeholders as they arrived, gave him their names and the names of those they voted for, which he registered in a book.—That done, the voter remounted his horse and returned to his farm.
The hostler at Buchanan’s inn, where I stopped to breakfast, is a free negro man named Frank Bird. {177} He was formerly owned by the great and good Washington, whom he accompanied and served in all his campaigns. He had learned farriery, cooking and hairdressing in England in his youth, so that he must have been a useful servant. He was liberated and got some land near Mount Vernon, by the general’s will, and now at the age of fifty-seven, he is hostler here, and enjoys such health and strength, that a few days ago he carried eight bushels of salt, exceeding four hundred pounds weight. The old man repaidmy complaisance in listening to him, by recounting as much of his own memoirs as my time would permit me to hear.
I left Paris, and passing Millersburgh, and one of the first settlements, called the Irish station, four miles further, just before entering the barren country three or four miles on that side of Blue licks, I spurred my horse past Nicholasville court-house and tavern, where I counted above a hundred horses, fastened under trees. I was induced to hasten past this place, as the voters in that sterile part of the country did not appear quite so peaceable and orderly as those I had seen in the morning at Paris, and I was not sure but some of them might have been moved by the spirit of whiskey to challenge me to run a race with them, or to amuse the company with a game of rough and tumble, at both which the backwoods Virginians are very dexterous.
I arrived at May’s-lick about sunset, much fatigued with my ride of fifty-two miles, in one of the hottest days of the season. I was very feverish, yet I forced myself, though without appetite, to take a light supper, after which I bathed my feet in warm water, and retired to bed, where I passed a sleepless night in high fever and excessive thirst, which being no ways abated at the first dawn of day, I arose and called my host to prepare my horse, being determined not to sink under my indisposition, while capable {178} of making the smallest exertion. My flushed countenance, black and parched lips, and frequent nausea, alarmed my host so as to induce him to dissuade me to proceed, but finding me decided he prescribed a strong infusion of tansey in Geneva—the bitterness of which a little relieved my thirst, but did not prevent its return accompanied by nausea and excruciating headache, in which situation I arrived at Washington at seven o’clock, and returned my horse to its hearty old owner with the young fat wife.
I reposed a while on a bed at my friendly host Ebert’s, who as well as Mrs. Ebert, was truly kind and hospitable.
Apropos—That last word just reminds me of a remark I have made in the course of my tour. I had letters of introduction to some very respectable merchants in different parts of this state, which were productive of some general advice and information, but without my being invited further into their houses than their shops, or (as they are called) stores; or without having it in my power to excuse myself from tasting their wine, cider, whiskey, or any thing else. I must except Mr. Hunter of Frankfort, from this general remark, and the polite invitation of general Russel on the road, was a specimen of the hospitality of the country gentlemen, which I have heard much boasted of, as brought with them from Virginia; so that I cannot absolutely tax Kentucky with a total want of that virtue.
After taking a couple of basons of strong coffee without milk, I found myself much relieved, and proceeded on foot to Maysville, where I arrived in something more than an hour. The exercise of walking had restored my perspiration, and after two hours repose at my host January’s, I arose in a state of convalescence, sat down to the dinner table, and forced myself to partake of a chicken—after which I devoted the remainder of the day to quiet and reading {179}—took a cup of coffee, retired early—had a good night’s rest, and felt no more of my fever.
I am the more minute in describing my indisposition, partly to warn other travellers, to avoid excessive fatigue under a hot sun, and partly to shew the good effects to be derived from fortitude and patience under most diseases. I am persuaded that had I obeyed the dictates of my inclination, and my landlord’s advice at May’s lick, I should have experienced a most severe, and probably fatal attack of highly inflammatory and bilious fever—but by bearingup against it—by perseverance in exercise and rest alternately—checking my strong desire for liquids, and using only such as were proper for me, and that moderately, and especially by refraining from every thing which might have the smallest tendency towards keeping up the heat of the blood, with the exception of the tansey bitters at May’s lick, I precluded the necessity of either medicine or professional advice.
FOOTNOTES:[133]See Durrett,Bryant’s Station(Filson ClubPublications, No. 12; Louisville, 1897).—Ed.
[133]See Durrett,Bryant’s Station(Filson ClubPublications, No. 12; Louisville, 1897).—Ed.
[133]See Durrett,Bryant’s Station(Filson ClubPublications, No. 12; Louisville, 1897).—Ed.