CHAPTER VIII

Unprepossessing appearance of Pittsburgh—Causes—Comfortable situation—Abundance of coal—M’Cullough’s inn—Confinement there by indisposition—Attention of some of the inhabitants—Memoirs of an uncommon character—Apollonian society—Dramatick societies—Lawyers—Clergymen—State of society injured by politicks and other causes—Physicians.

The appearance of Pittsburgh in the winter, is by no means pleasing, notwithstanding its fine situation, as, none of the streets being paved except Market street,[27]they are so extremely miry, that it is impossible to walk them without wading over the ankle, except during frosty weather, which rarely continues many days successively, from its lying so low, and being so well sheltered, by the surrounding hills. This, though unpleasant now, is in reality in favour of the place, as when the streets are all paved, that inconvenience will be obviated, and the advantage of shelter from the bleak wintry winds will still remain, without its being followed by an exclusion of fresh air during the summer, as the rivers, at that season act as ventilators, a refreshing breeze always drawing up or down one of them, increasing {62}with the elevation of the sun until noon, and then gradually subsiding into a calm towards sunset; while at a little distance from those air conductors (the rivers) even in high situations, an oppressive heat not rarified by the most gentle zephyr, prevails during the same time.

Another cause of the unprepossessing appearance of Pittsburgh, proceeds from the effect of one of the most useful conveniences and necessaries of life, which it enjoys in a pre-eminent degree; namely, fuel, consisting of as fine coal as any in the world, in such plenty, so easily wrought, and so near the town, that it is delivered in wagons drawn by four horses, at the doors of the inhabitants, at the rate of five cents per bushel.

A load of forty bushels which costs only two dollars, will keep two fires in a house a month, and in consequence, there are few houses, even amongst the poorest of the inhabitants, where at least two fires are not used—one for cooking, and another for the family to sit at. This great consumption of a coal abounding in sulphur, and its smoke condensing into a vast quantity of lampblack, gives the outside of the houses a dirty and disagreeable appearance—even more so than in the most populous towns of Great Britain, where a proportionably great quantity of coal is used; which must be caused by a difference of quality, which appears in the grate to be in favour of the coal of this country.

The winter being too far advanced for boats to descend the Ohio, I preferred remaining in Pittsburgh, until I should have an opportunity of continuing my journey to the westward by water, to going on immediately by land, as I wished to see the banks of that celebrated river, as far as it lay in my route.

I therefore became a weekly boarder and lodger at M’Cullough’s, which though an inn much frequented by travellers, I found to be as quiet, as regular, {63} and as orderly, as anyprivate lodging house; the beds equally cleanly, the table more plentiful, and the charge as moderate. As M’Cullough lays himself out to accommodate travellers, or regular lodgers, he applies himself solely to that, and discourages every thing which might subject his house to the noise, revelry, and confusion of a tavern. His wife an amiable and obliging woman, and three daughters, fine and good girls just grown up, attend to the business of the house, and the accommodation of their guests, so well, that a man must be fastidious to a fault, who would not be perfectly satisfied with such quarters.

The streets being extremely dirty, and my foot still paining me much from the consequence of its being blistered on my journey between Lancaster and Middleton, I confined myself to the house for several days after my arrival, going out only once during that time, to call on general O’Hara[28]and Mr. Abner Barker on business. Confinement is at any time unpleasant; but at an inn, however good the accommodation, in a strange place, without a single acquaintance, and suffering continued torture from an inflammation in a limb, the pain of which would have prevented my enjoying a book, even had there been a library within my reach, was to me excessively so.

A few neighbouring gentlemen hearing that a strangerwas at M’Cullough’s confined by indisposition, did me the favour of calling on me, and the attentions of doctor Andrew Richardson, Mr. James Mountain, a learned practitioner at the bar, and Messrs. Anthony Beelen and Nicholas Cunningham respectable merchants, prevented my being able to charge Pittsburgh with anabsolutewant of hospitality. The two former offered me the use of their judiciously selected libraries, when I should become sufficiently convalescent to go out, and the perusal of any of their books in the interim, and the first supplied {64} me with the Philadelphia and Baltimore newspapers as they arrived by post, twice weekly.

A few evenings after my arrival, the daughters of my host had a numerous party of young people of both sexes to spend the evening and practice vocal musick under the directions of a Mr. Tyler who had taught them. They displayed taste and harmony enough to do honour to their venerable teacher, and I was tempted to join the sounds of my flute to the sweet treble of some of the young ladies. This led to a degree of confidence to me from Mr. Tyler, who on retiring to bed in the same room, imparted to me his little history, which though not replete with incident, was singular and affecting, exhibiting generous benevolent simplicity, a victim to vice and ingratitude. He was an Englishman, and had been one of the choristers of a cathedral in England from whence he had emigrated to America, when a young man. He had exercised his talent in teaching sacred musick, in the eastern part of Pennsylvania, until he had acquired a sufficiency to purchase a farm in the neighbourhood of Carlisle, where he and his wife settled. They were childless—an infant foundling which they chanced to see, impressed them with the idea of supplying themselves with what nature had denied them. They took the boy home, adopted him as their son, and spared neitherpains nor expence to give him the best education the country afforded. He grew up a most promising youth, and bid fair to reward them for their parental cares, by smoothing their decline of life, with a return of those attentions which they had lavished on him from his helpless childhood. The lad was a good accomptant, and was placed with a storekeeper in Carlisle, until he was supposed by his benefactors sufficiently versed in business, to manage for himself. Tyler then expended the savings of many years industry to furnish for him a respectable country store. The young {65} man commenced business with the fairest prospects, but he had unfortunately contracted habits of drinking and gambling. His business was neglected, one loss followed another, but he had the art of still imposing on the unsuspecting simplicity of his blindly partial and generous patron, until he prevailed on him to be his security for larger sums than his remaining stock of goods would pay. He then absconded, his creditors sued the old man, who to save himself from prison was obliged to dispose of his farm, and after paying the debts of the ungrateful prodigal, with the very small sum which remained to him, he and his wife last year at upwards of sixty years of age each, crossed the mountains, at an inclement season, and purchased a small tract of land about seven miles from Pittsburgh, on which he has since erected a cottage, and where he has cleared and cultivated a few acres, and to enable himself to make his payments, he has taught sacred vocal musick in this town and the surrounding country these two successive winters. His enthusiasm for vocal harmony, and his innocent unsuspecting simplicity, untainted during a long life, by worldly craft, and still believing the mass of mankind as honest and virtuous as himself, notwithstanding the trying proof he had experienced of its baseness, rendered him a singular and original character; I sayoriginal, for I much question,whether any person into whose hands these sheets may fall, can turn his eye inwardly, and exclaim with a conscience void of offence and selfishness, I too am a general philanthropist, like the good old English singing master.

Several musical amateurs are associated here under the title of theApollonian Society. I visited it by invitation at the house of Mr. F. Amelung the acting President, and was most agreeably surprised to hear a concert of instrumental musick performed by about a dozen gentlemen of the town, with a degree {66} of taste and execution, which I could not have expected in so remote a place. I was particularly astonished at the performance on the violin of Mr. Gabler, a German, employed at Gen. O’Hara’s glass house, and who is one of the society. His natural talents for musick were so great, that he could not bear the trammels of a scientifick acquisition of it, and therefore never learned a note, yet he joins a correct extempore harmony, to the compositions of Hayden, Pleyel, Bach, Mozart and the other celebrated composers, particularly in their lively movements; he is not quite so happy in his accompaniments of Handel, or of grand or solemn musick generally. His execution of Waltz’s is in a sweet and tasty style, and he has composed by ear and committed to memory several pieces, which impress the hearer with regret, that they must die with their author. Indeed he now (when too late) regrets himself, that he had not in his youth, and when he had great opportunities, added science to natural taste.

The Apollonian society is principally indebted for its formation to the labours of Mr. S. H. Dearborn,[29]a New England man, who came here about a year ago, to exercise the profession of a portrait painter, and being a very versatile genius, and having some knowledge of, and taste formusick, he soon discovered all the respectable people who were harmoniously inclined, and succeeded in associating them into a regular society, which meets one evening every week, and consists not only of those who can take parts, but also of many of the most respectable inhabitants of the town, who do not play, but who become members, for the sake of admission for themselves and families to the periodical concerts.

There are also two dramatick societies in Pittsburgh, {67} one composed of the students of law, and the other of respectable mechanicks. They occasionally unite with each other in order to cast the pieces to be performed with more effect. The theatre is in the great room of the upper story of the court-house, which from its size, and having several other contiguous apartments which serve for green room, dressing rooms, &c. is very well adapted to that purpose. It is neatly fitted up under the direction of Mr. Dearborn, whose mechanical genius has rendered him a useful associate of the disciples of Thespis; whether as machinist, dresser, scene painter and shifter or actor; particularly in the part of the garrulous Mrs. Bulgruddery in John Bull, which he performs with much respectability. Mr. W. Wilkins[30]excels in genteel comedy; Mr. Johnston does justice to the part of an Irishman; Mr. Haslet to that of a Yorkshire farmer or country squire; Mr. Linton in low comedy is the Edwin of Pittsburgh, and Mr. Van Baun would be an ornament to any established theatre, either in the sock or the buskin, he being equally excellent in Octavianas in Fribble. The female characters being sustained by young men, are deficient of that grace and modest vivacity, which are natural to the fair sex, and which their grosser lords and masters vainly attempt to copy. On the whole however, the dramatick societies, exhibit in a very respectable manner, a rational entertainment to the inhabitants of Pittsburgh about once monthly through the winter. They have hitherto confined themselves to the comick walk, but I have no doubt, that if they appear in the buskin, they will do equal credit to tragedy.

Some of the gentlemen of the bar resident here, are very respectable in the profession of the law. Mr. Ross, formerly a senator, and set up in unsuccessful opposition to Mr. M’Kean, for governor of the state, is an orator of the first abilities—his oratory {68} being clear, intelligible and impressive.[31]Mr. Mountain, to deep learning, adds careful investigation of the cause of his client, and is apt and happy in his quotations. Mr. W. Wilkins is by nature an orator. His person, action, and gesture are favourable to him—his words flow at will in a style of manly and bold oratory which commands attention.—He has no occasion to study his periods, they form themselves—he enters in earnest into the cause of his client, and rarely fails to give it its full weight—but perhaps he sometimes works himself up into too great warmth of language, which may be occasioned by the glowing impulse of youth operating on a fertile fancy—heapparently not exceeding twenty-five years of age. Mr. Addison,[32]Mr. Semple, Mr. Woods, Mr. Baldwin, and Mr. Collins[33]are spoken of as very able practitioners, but as I had not the pleasure of witnessing their exertions at the bar, I cannot take it upon me to describe their talents, even was I adequate to it.

There are five societies of Christians, which have each an established minister—Mr. Steele[34]the pastor of one of the Presbyterian societies, possesses all that liberality of sentiment and Christian charity inculcated by the divine founder of his religion, and dignifies the pulpit by his clear and pleasing exposition of the scriptures. Mr. Taylor the Episcopal minister, is an able mathematician, a liberal philosopher, and a man of unaffected simplicity of manners. His discourses from the pulpit are good moral lectures, well adapted to the understanding of his hearers. He is an assistant teacher in the academy. Of Mr. Boggs,[35]the minister of the other Presbyterian society, {69} or of Mr. Black, the minister of a large society of a sect of Presbyterians called covenanters, I am not adequate to speak, not having yet heard either officiate. Mr. Sheva,[36]pastor of a congregation of German Lutherans, is a man of liberal morality, and a lively social companion. There are hereseveral Roman Catholicks,[37]Methodists,[38]and Anabaptists—who have as yet no established place of worship, but who occasionally meet to profit by the exhortations of some of their spiritual directors, who travel this way. On the whole, the religious sects appear to be more free here than in most places I have visited, from those illiberal and anti-christian prejudices, which render Christianity the scoff of even the ignorant Indians, whom we term savages.

But though difference of religious opinions does not cause any animosity here, politicks have reduced society to a most deplorable state. There are two parties, which style themselves Federal republicans, and Democratick republicans, but who speaking of each other, leave out the wordrepublican, and call each other Federalists and Democrats. I have already described their opinions, which are argued with more warmth, and are productive of more rancour and violence in Pittsburgh than perhaps in any other part of America.[39]There are very few neutrals, {70} as it requires a bold independence of sentiment, to prevent a person from attaching himself to one or other party, and besides, to a man who has not resources for the employment of time within himself, the alternative of not being of one or otherparty is insupportable, as he is shunned equally by both, and in this populous town lives with respect to society, as though he were in a desert. This may be one cause that Pittsburgh is not celebrated for its hospitality, another, (which is equally applicable to most new settled towns,) is that it is inhabited by people who have fixed here for the express purpose of making money. This employs the whole of their time and attention, when they are not occupied by politicks, and leaves them no leisure to devote to the duties of hospitality. Another cause, which one would scarcely suspect, is pride. Those who from the adventitious circumstance of having settled here at an early period, and purchased, or became possessed of landed property, when from its very low value, it was obtained in the most easy manner, for a mere trifle, now find themselves rich suddenly, from its rapid increase in value. Those who came after them, had not the same opportunities, and of course were not so fortunate. Wealth acquired suddenly, generally operates on the ignorant, to make them wish to seem as if they had always been in the same situation; and in affecting the manners and appearance of the great, they always overact their part, and assume airs of superiority {71} even over the really well born and well bred part of the community, who have been reduced from a more affluent situation, by misfortune, or who have not been so fortunate as themselves in acquiring what stands the possessor in lieu of descent, and all the virtues and accomplishments. This accounts for the pride which generally pervades the fortunate first settlers, but it is carried to such extravagant excess, that I have been credibly informed that some of the females of this class have styled themselves and their families theWell born, to distinguish them from those not quite so wealthy, forgetting that some among them could not tell who had been their ancestors in the second generation.This is all matter of ridicule and amusement to a person possessed of the least philosophy. There is also a very numerous class, which assumes a certain air of superiority throughout this whole country—I mean the lawyers. They (even their students and pupils) arrogate to themselves the title or epithet of esquire, which the uninformed mass of the people allow them; and as, by intrigue, they generally fill all the respectable offices in the government as well as the legislature, they assume to themselves a consequence to which they are in no other way entitled.

The profession of physick is also on a very respectable footing in this town. There being four established physicians.—Doctors Bedford, Richardson,[40]Stevenson, and Mowry,[41]all of considerable practice, experience, and reputation.[42]

I shall defer an account of the situation, history and present state of Pittsburgh, until I have finished {72} my tour to the westward, when I shall have obtained more information on so important a subject.

FOOTNOTES:[27]Since the above was written the greater part of Wood street has been paved, Front and Third streets from Market to Wood, Diamond alley gravelled, and Chancery lane paved from the river to Second street, and preparations are making to pave others this season, 1810.—Cramer.[28]General James O’Hara embarked in the Indian trade near Fort Pitt about 1773. On the outbreak of the Revolution, he enlisted in the ninth Virginia regiment, but was soon employed as quartermaster, also serving in that capacity in the Whiskey Insurrection (1793), and Wayne’s Campaign against the Indians (1794). His business talents and enterprise were employed in building up the new town of Pittsburg, where at its inception he had purchased much land. In 1797, he built the first glass manufactory west of the Alleghenies; about the same time he made arrangements to transport salt by water from Onondaga, New York, greatly cheapening the price of that necessity. In 1804, O’Hara was made director of the branch of the Bank of Pennsylvania established at Pittsburg; and on his death (1819) left a large estate to his heirs. General O’Hara was generous and patriotic as well as enterprising. He was a friend of Washington, and served as elector when the latter was chosen president in 1788.—Ed.[29]Son of Mr. Benjamin Dearborn, of Boston, much celebrated for his mechanical and inventive genius.—Cramer.[30]William Wilkins, at this time but a young lawyer, afterwards became distinguished in American political circles. He served as state and federal judge from 1820-28; three years later he was elected to the United States Senate; and in 1834, was sent by President Jackson as minister to Russia. Wilkins was in Congress again in 1842; and when Upshire and Gilmer were killed (1844), President Tyler appointed him Secretary of War.—Ed.[31]James Ross was one of the most eminent of Pittsburg’s early lawyers. Born in 1761, he was admitted to the bar in 1791, and three years later chosen to fill out Gallatin’s term in the United States Senate, wherein by re-election he served until 1803. Ross was a staunch Federalist, and ran three times unsuccessfully upon that ticket for governor of Pennsylvania, twice (1799 and 1802) against McKean. Although a Federalist, he had sufficiently imbibed Western views to advocate, while a senator, the forcible seizure of New Orleans from the Spaniards. After retiring from politics (1803), he practiced law until his death in 1847, being considered the leader of the Pittsburg bar.—Ed.[32]Since dead.—Cramer.[33]Cuming has here given a summary of the noted members of the Pittsburg bar at the time of his visit. Steel Semple made a specialty of land cases, and had great influence with juries. Henry Baldwin was afterwards distinguished in politics, serving in Congress 1817-23; seven years later he was appointed to the supreme court of the United States, wherein he served until his death in 1846. Thomas Collins was an able and successful lawyer, with high social connections. For a sketch of Judge Addison, see Harris’sJournal, vol. iii of this series, p. 363, note 46.—Ed.[34]Mr. Steele died March 22, 1810.—Cramer.[35]Removed to near Fredericksburgh, Virginia. His place has been filled by the Rev. Mr. Hunt, who officiates to the second Presbyterian congregation.—Cramer.[36]Removed to St. Louis, Louisiana.—Cramer.[37]The Catholicks have lately erected a small but handsome brick church of one story at the north east end of Liberty street, the ground for which, I understand, was gratuitously presented to them by Gen. O’Hara. The inside work of the church is yet in an unfinished state.—Cramer.[38]The Methodists are now engaged in collecting a voluntary subscription for either the building, or the purchase of a house for the use of their society.—Cramer.[39]Our author was here at a time when politicks ran high the colouring he has given the rancour, in consequence, among the inhabitants, may be a little too deep. Be this as it may, party politicks, or at least, political rancour, has subsided, and the citizens generally, intermingle in social societies, and interchange the various offices of friendship and of trade without interruption, however they may differ in political sentiment, or be opposed to each other in the election of the various candidates to publick office. Conceiving, perhaps, that a moderate difference of political opinion, is a natural consequence of our political institutions, and a requisite to their existence in the purity in which they were at first established.—Cramer.[40]Died, August 1809.—Cramer.[41]Of these early Pittsburg physicians, Dr. Nathaniel Bedford came out as a surgeon in the British army, and located here in 1765; his colleague, Dr. Stevenson, arrived about the same time and later served as a Revolutionary soldier. Dr. Mowry entered the office of Bedford as an apprentice (1786), attended lectures under Dr. Rush at Philadelphia, and attained high rank in his profession.—Ed.[42]There are three others established here lately, a German, a French, and an English physician, the latter of whom is of the Friends’ society, of the name of Pennington, considerably advanced in years. He came to this place in the fall of 1809, and is said to be skilful.—Cramer.

[27]Since the above was written the greater part of Wood street has been paved, Front and Third streets from Market to Wood, Diamond alley gravelled, and Chancery lane paved from the river to Second street, and preparations are making to pave others this season, 1810.—Cramer.

[28]General James O’Hara embarked in the Indian trade near Fort Pitt about 1773. On the outbreak of the Revolution, he enlisted in the ninth Virginia regiment, but was soon employed as quartermaster, also serving in that capacity in the Whiskey Insurrection (1793), and Wayne’s Campaign against the Indians (1794). His business talents and enterprise were employed in building up the new town of Pittsburg, where at its inception he had purchased much land. In 1797, he built the first glass manufactory west of the Alleghenies; about the same time he made arrangements to transport salt by water from Onondaga, New York, greatly cheapening the price of that necessity. In 1804, O’Hara was made director of the branch of the Bank of Pennsylvania established at Pittsburg; and on his death (1819) left a large estate to his heirs. General O’Hara was generous and patriotic as well as enterprising. He was a friend of Washington, and served as elector when the latter was chosen president in 1788.—Ed.

[29]Son of Mr. Benjamin Dearborn, of Boston, much celebrated for his mechanical and inventive genius.—Cramer.

[30]William Wilkins, at this time but a young lawyer, afterwards became distinguished in American political circles. He served as state and federal judge from 1820-28; three years later he was elected to the United States Senate; and in 1834, was sent by President Jackson as minister to Russia. Wilkins was in Congress again in 1842; and when Upshire and Gilmer were killed (1844), President Tyler appointed him Secretary of War.—Ed.

[31]James Ross was one of the most eminent of Pittsburg’s early lawyers. Born in 1761, he was admitted to the bar in 1791, and three years later chosen to fill out Gallatin’s term in the United States Senate, wherein by re-election he served until 1803. Ross was a staunch Federalist, and ran three times unsuccessfully upon that ticket for governor of Pennsylvania, twice (1799 and 1802) against McKean. Although a Federalist, he had sufficiently imbibed Western views to advocate, while a senator, the forcible seizure of New Orleans from the Spaniards. After retiring from politics (1803), he practiced law until his death in 1847, being considered the leader of the Pittsburg bar.—Ed.

[32]Since dead.—Cramer.

[33]Cuming has here given a summary of the noted members of the Pittsburg bar at the time of his visit. Steel Semple made a specialty of land cases, and had great influence with juries. Henry Baldwin was afterwards distinguished in politics, serving in Congress 1817-23; seven years later he was appointed to the supreme court of the United States, wherein he served until his death in 1846. Thomas Collins was an able and successful lawyer, with high social connections. For a sketch of Judge Addison, see Harris’sJournal, vol. iii of this series, p. 363, note 46.—Ed.

[34]Mr. Steele died March 22, 1810.—Cramer.

[35]Removed to near Fredericksburgh, Virginia. His place has been filled by the Rev. Mr. Hunt, who officiates to the second Presbyterian congregation.—Cramer.

[36]Removed to St. Louis, Louisiana.—Cramer.

[37]The Catholicks have lately erected a small but handsome brick church of one story at the north east end of Liberty street, the ground for which, I understand, was gratuitously presented to them by Gen. O’Hara. The inside work of the church is yet in an unfinished state.—Cramer.

[38]The Methodists are now engaged in collecting a voluntary subscription for either the building, or the purchase of a house for the use of their society.—Cramer.

[39]Our author was here at a time when politicks ran high the colouring he has given the rancour, in consequence, among the inhabitants, may be a little too deep. Be this as it may, party politicks, or at least, political rancour, has subsided, and the citizens generally, intermingle in social societies, and interchange the various offices of friendship and of trade without interruption, however they may differ in political sentiment, or be opposed to each other in the election of the various candidates to publick office. Conceiving, perhaps, that a moderate difference of political opinion, is a natural consequence of our political institutions, and a requisite to their existence in the purity in which they were at first established.—Cramer.

[40]Died, August 1809.—Cramer.

[41]Of these early Pittsburg physicians, Dr. Nathaniel Bedford came out as a surgeon in the British army, and located here in 1765; his colleague, Dr. Stevenson, arrived about the same time and later served as a Revolutionary soldier. Dr. Mowry entered the office of Bedford as an apprentice (1786), attended lectures under Dr. Rush at Philadelphia, and attained high rank in his profession.—Ed.

[42]There are three others established here lately, a German, a French, and an English physician, the latter of whom is of the Friends’ society, of the name of Pennington, considerably advanced in years. He came to this place in the fall of 1809, and is said to be skilful.—Cramer.

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