Chapter 11

Mailarrives at Aberavon, 2 miles distant, 6 evening; departs, 7.30 morning.

[A] BAGSHOT is a village on the great western road, in the parish of Windlesham, and hundred of Woking. Bagshot heath derives its name from this village; it is one of the most extensive wastes in the kingdom, and was formerly the scene of many highway robberies. Its appearance is extremely desolate, but it is useful in supplying the inhabitants with fuel, and feeds a great number of sheep, the mutton of which is excellent; but like other animals fed on a similar pasture, the sheep are small. On the edge of the heath are several noblemen's seats. Among which, Hall Grove, the residence of Mrs. Birt; Chobham Place, S. Thornton, Esq.; South Hill Park, the Earl of Limerick; and Easthampstead Park, the seat of the Marquis of Downshire; are deserving the notice of the curious traveller.Bagshot heath.Bagshot Park to the north of the village, was once the seat of his late Majesty George IV. when Prince of Wales; after which time it was inhabited by the late Duke of Gloucester, (brother-in-law of his present Majesty) until the day of his decease, which occurred on the 30th of November, 1834, in the 58th year of his age; his remains were interred in St. George's Chapel, Windsor Castle, on the 11th of the following month. Bagshot was formerly a lordship of the kings of England, and was much resorted to by James I., and Charles I., to enjoy the pleasures of the chace.

Mailarrives 10.14 night; departs 3.28 morning—Inns, King's Arms, and White Hart.

[B] BAILDON is in the parish of Otley and wapentake of Skyrack, and is situated on the river Aire. The inhabitants are principally engaged in trade and manufactures. The Leeds and Liverpool Canal passes within a mile and a half from this place.

Fair, first Saturday in March and November, for horses, horned cattle &c.

[A] BAKEWELL. This ancient market town, in which the petty sessions for the High Peak are holden, is situated on the western bank of the river Wye. Of late years, the market has dwindled into insignificance, but the parish is the most extensive in Derbyshire; its length is more than 20 miles, and its breadth upwards of eight. The pasturage in this neighbourhood is remarkably good. The town was anciently called Bath-quelle; it appears to have derived its name from its Bath-well, the immediate site of which has been for many years occupied by a collector of minerals and fossils for private cabinets. From the circumstance of a Roman altar, and other antiquities having been discovered here, there can be but little doubt that Bakewell was a place of some note in the time of the Romans. At the Conquest, Bakewell had two priests and a church. The manor then belonged to William Peverell, ancestor of the Peveril celebratedSeat of the Peverils of the Peak.in the admirable romance by Sir Walter Scott, styled "Peveril of the Peak." Bakewell church is an ancient structure, with a lofty spire. Near the entrance of the town, from Ashford, is a mill, for the carding, roving, doubling, spinning, and twisting of cotton, in which some hundreds of persons of both sexes are employed; the mill was erected by the late Sir Richard Arkwright, the founder of the cottonSir Richard Arkwright.trade in this neighbourhood. This distinguished character, whose perseverance and admirable inventions raised him from one of the most humble occupations in society—that of a barber—to affluence and honour, was the youngest of thirteen children, and was born in the year 1732, at Preston, in Lancashire. A considerable manufacture of linen goods, and of linen and cotton mixed, was then carried on in that neighbourhood, and Mr. Arkwright had an opportunity of becoming intimately acquainted with the various operations; and being a man of superior powers, he directed his thoughts to the improvement of the mode of spinning, which had probably been conducted for ages without thought of change. The first hint respecting the means of effecting this improvement, he said, he accidentally received from seeing a red hot iron bar elongated, by being passed between iron cylinders. The difficulties which he experienced before he could bring his machine into use, even after its construction was sufficiently complete to demonstrate its value, would, perhaps, have for ever retarded its completion, had his genius and application been less ardent. His pecuniary means were not such as to enable him to commence business on his own account, and few were willing to incur the necessary risk. At length, however, he secured the co-operation of some persons who saw the merits of the invention, and were willing to assist his endeavours, and he obtained his first patent for spinning by means of rollers in the year 1769. To avoid the inconvenience of establishing a manufactureCotton mills.of this kind at the great seat of the cotton manufacture, as it then existed, he removed to Nottingham, when, in conjunction with his partners, he erected his first mill, which was worked by horses. This mode being found too expensive, another mill on a larger scale was erected at Cromford, the machinery of which was put in motion by water. Mr. Arkwright soon effected many improvements in the mode of preparing the cotton for spinning, and invented a variety of ingenious machines for that purpose, in the most correct and expeditious manner, for all which he obtained a patent in the year 1775, and thus completed a series of machinery so various and complicated, yet so admirably combined as to excite universal approbation. That all this should have been accomplished by a single man, without education, without mechanical knowledge, or even mechanic's experience, is truly extraordinary; and is, perhaps, equal to any known example of the wonderful powers of the human mind, when steadily directed to one object. However, at the same time that he was inventing or improving the machinery, he was engaged in various undertakings which might have been thought incompatible with other pursuits. He was taking measures to secure himself a fair proportion of the fruits of his industry and ingenuity—he was greatly extending the business—he was introducing into every department of the manufactory, a novel system of industry, economy, order, and cleanliness; the whole of which he so effectually accomplished, that his example may be regarded as the origin of almost all similar improvements. During this entire period, he was afflicted with a violent asthma, which sometimes threatened the immediate termination of his existence; and for some time previously to his death, he was rendered incapable of continuing his usual pursuits, by a complication of diseases, which, at length, deprived him of life at the Rock House, Cromford, on the 23d of August, 1792. The honour of Knighthood was bestowed on him by George III., in December, 1786, when he presented an address to that monarch. Dr. Thomas Denman, an eminentDr. Thomas Denman.physician, was born at this place in 1733; after the death of Dr. William Hunter, he was considered as the most eminent man of his profession. Towards the decline of his life he gradually relinquished the more laborious parts of his profession to his son-in-law, Sir Richard Croft, and became a consulting physician. His death, which was very sudden, took place on the 26th of November, 1815. He left two daughters and a son, the latter of whom, adopting the legal profession, is now Lord Chief Justice of the Court of King's Bench.

Market, Friday.—Fairs, Easter Monday; Whit Monday; August 26; Monday after October 10; Monday after November 22, for cattle and horses,—Inn, Rutland Arms, allowed to be one of the best Inns in the kingdom, and is much frequented by anglers during the summer season.—Mailarrives 12.10 afternoon; departs 6.0 morning.

Fair, first Saturday in March and November, for horses, horned cattle &c.

[A] BALA is situated at the outlet of the lake of the same name. It is a clean and populous market town, consisting of one wide principal street, and others crossing it at right angles. The houses are in general built very low. The young women commonly go barefooted; they are however well formed, and have little of the strong Welsh physiognomy. At this place is carried on a great trade in woollen gloves and stockings. Just before the entrance of the town is an artificial mount called "Tommen y Bala," (the tumulus of Bala) which is supposed to be of Roman origin, and placed here with a small castle on its summit to secure the pass towards the sea, which is about twenty-five miles distant. Bala Lake, or Llyn Tegid, is a quarterThe largest lake in Wales.of a mile south of the town; it is the largest lake in Wales, being about four miles long, and in some places near a mile in breadth. At Bryn Goleu, its depth is several fathoms. The scenery around is mountainous, and it forms the principal attraction of the vicinity, yet it possesses none of the grand discriminating traits of the lakes of Scotland or Ireland. The overflowings of this lake are sometimes dreadful; but this only happens when the winds rush from the mountains at the upper end. In stormy weather, when swelled by torrents, the water is driven to the height of eight or nine feet, covering great part of the vale of Edeirnion, and almost threatening the town with destruction. In calm settled weather, it has been so smooth as to be frozen over. The river Dee rises from under Arran ben Llyn, the high mountain at the head of the lake; and according to Giraldus Cambriensis, Drayton, and others, passes through this immense body of water without deigning to intermix its waters, as the Rhone is said to pass through the lake of Geneva, and the classic Alpheus through the waters of the Adriatic. Hence it has been asserted,The lake fisheries.that salmon are never found in the lake, or gwiniad in the river; it however abounds with a variety of excellent fish, among which we may mention pike, trout, perch, and eels. The fishery in the 13th century belonged to the Abbey of Basingwerk; the whole property is vested at present in Sir Watkyn Williams Wynne, Bart., who allows the fishermen to be occasionally employed in attending fishing parties with a boat and nets, without such privilege no person is allowed the use of nets; but angling is freely permitted, and gentlemen as distant as from London visit this place entirely for the sake of indulging in this amusement. Of the inns at Bala, Mr. Hutton says, "although I have often only reposed one night at an inn, yet from agreeable treatment and conversation, I found some regret the next morning at parting; and though I saw the people but once, my mind revolted at the idea of seeing them no more." The town of Bala is governed by two bailiffs, and a common council, and the assizes are held here and at Dolgelly alternately; it is likewise one of the polling places for the county.

MarketSaturday—Fairs, May 14; July 10; Sep. 11 and 22; Oct. 24; and Nov. 8.—Mailarrives 8.0 morning; departs 5.0 afternoon.

[A] BALBY. In this village George Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends, or Quakers, held his first meetings. His father, who was aGeorge Fox the Quaker.weaver, gave him a very religious education; he was apprenticed to a grazier, and much employed as a shepherd. From his earliest infancy he displayed a tendency to enthusiasm, and no doubt his solitary employment tended to confirm it. At the early age of nineteen he persuaded himself that he was called to exercise his faculties, solely in the affairs of religion. Forsaking his relations, he determined to devote himself to that alone. Equipped in a leathern doublet, he wandered from place to place, subsisting by the charity of those who received his doctrines. At length he reached the metropolis, where, being discovered by his friends, he was earnestly invited to return. This, however, he refused to do, and after remaining with them a short time, he again betook himself to his itinerant habits. He now walked abroad in retired places, fasting and studying the Bible by day and night, and sometimes a hollow tree was his habitation, book in hand, for a day together. In 1648, he publicly propagated his opinions, commencing as public preacher at Manchester, which place he frequently left to perambulate the adjacent towns, preaching in the market-houses. About this time he began to adopt the manners and habits which are peculiar to the society following his religious opinions; nor was he free from the persecution which constantly follows novelty, in any thing regarded as an innovation of a religious nature. At Derby, the disciples of Fox were first denominated Quakers, from theHis wanderings and imprisonment.trembling delivery of their sentences, and their calls on the magistrates to tremble before the Lord. In 1655, Fox was sent a prisoner to Cromwell, who immediately liberated him upon ascertaining the peaceful nature of his doctrines. He was, however, treated by the country magistracy with great severity, from his frequently interrupting ministers, even during divine service, and more than once the Protector, Oliver Cromwell, exerted himself to obtain his freedom. A fast having been appointed on account of the persecution of Protestants in foreign countries, he addressed a letter to the heads and governors of the nation, descrying, in most forcible terms, the impropriety of having recourse to severity of a similar nature at home. Charles II. liberated him from prison in the year 1666, and from that time they formally united as a "Society of Friends." Three years afterwards he married the widow of Judge Fell, in the simple unostentatious manner practised by the sect to the present day. His health, however, was impaired by imprisonment and suffering, and he lived in a more retired manner to the day of his death, which took place in the year 1690, in the 67th year of his age.

[A] BALDERSLEY. Near this village is an extensive common, called Hutton Conyers Moor, on which there is a rabbit-warren; the inhabitants have a right of estray for their sheep on this moor, in conjunction with some other townships, and each township has a shepherd. The lord'sRight of Common.shepherd has a pre-eminence of tending his sheep on every part of the common; and wherever he herds the lord's sheep, the several other shepherds are to give place to him, and give up what is termed their hofiong place, so long as they are depastured thereon. The lord's court is held on the first of January; the shepherds attend the court, and each do fealty by bringing a large apple-pye and a two-penny sweet-cake; each pye is divided into two parts, and distributed by the bailiff between the steward, the tenant of the rabbit-warren, and the shepherds of the townships, reservingSingular custom.a portion however for himself. Each pye contains about a peck of flour, and the bailiff measures them with a rule to see that they are of the proper dimensions; should they not be so he threatens to fine the town; he, however, has to provide furmenty (a food made by boiling wheat in milk) and mustard. The furmenty is put into an earthen pot, and the top of the dish placed level with the ground, all persons present are invited to partake; those who do not accept the invitation are deemed disloyal to their lord. Every shepherd is compelled to bring a spoon with him, and in cases of neglect, or wilful pleasantry, they are obliged to sup the hot furmenty from the pot, and the bystanders not unfrequently plunge the offenders head into the mixture, as a matter of diversion.

[B] BALDOCK is situated between two hills, at the intersection of the great north road, and the Roman Ikeneld street. It was formerly the property of the Knights Templars, to whom Gilbert, Earl of Pembroke, gave the site; it was then called Baudoc: but some antiquarians, with little reason, derive its name from Balbec, a city in Syria, from which this order of knights was expelled by the Saracens. It principally consists of one long ancient street. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a spacious structure, and was built by the Knights Templars, and again partly rebuilt in the early part of the fifteenth century. All the early portion of this structure is of pure Roman architecture, and the latter of the florid gothic. The steeple, which is octagonal, was rebuilt a few years ago. In the church is a richly carved oaken screen, part of the ancient rood-loft,Sharks' teeth found in cutting through a hill.and a very curious font. In cutting through Baldock-hill, to form a new road, a number of fossils, consisting of cornua ammonis, sharks' teeth, &c., were discovered. There is a curious custom in this manor. When the Steward holds his Court Leet, the bell tolls, to summons the copyhold tenants together, to do their suit and service at dinner, to which every baker sends a loaf of bread, and every victualler a flagon of ale or beer. The object of this custom is intended for the Court Leet to examine the measures, as well as to judge of the quality of the articles of food.

Market, Thursday.—Fairs, March 7; last Thursday in May; August 5; October 2; December 11, for cheese, cattle, and household goods.—Mailarrives 12.31 morning, departs 2.16 morning.—Bankers, Williamson and Co., draw on Hoare and Co.—Inn, White Hart.

[A] BAMBROUGH CASTLE is situated on the romantic coast of Northumberland, near an obscure town of the same name; it stands upon a triangular rock, high, rugged, and abrupt on the land side. But we leave its description, which would be too lengthy, and turn rather to the account of the benevolent institution founded in 1720, by Lord Crewe, Bishop ofSeat of the Bishop of Durham.Durham, of which it is the seat. The keep of the castle is fitted up for suffering seamen, and property which may have been rescued from the fury of the ocean. Regulations were also adopted to prevent accidents on the coast, and to alleviate misfortunes when they had occurred. A nine-pounder placed at the bottom of the great tower, gives signals to ships in distress; and in case of a wreck announces it to the Custom-house officers, who hasten to prevent its being plundered. In addition to this, during a storm, horsemen patrol the coast, and rewards are paid for the earliest intelligence of vessels in distress. A flag is always hoisted whenNoble charity.any ship is seen in distress on the Fern Islands or Staples; or a rocket thrown up at night, which gives notice to the fishermen of Holy Island, who put off to the spot when no boat from the main can get over the breakers. There has also been life-boats added to the establishment. Within the walls of the castle are supported two free-schools, an infirmary, thirty beds for shipwrecked sailors, and a granary, whence poor persons are supplied with provision at the first price. There is also a library, the books of which are circulated gratuitously for twenty miles round. This philanthropic endowment has not been suffered to decay with the romance of olden time, but the charitable intentions of the testator are fulfilled so as to exhibit a lasting record of his active benevolence.

[B] BAMPTON. A market town, situated near the little river Batherme, which flows into the Exe at about one mile distance. Mr. Polwhele considers that this was a Roman station, and here, probably, the Romans had artificial hot-baths. A chalybeate spring in this neighbourhood is much celebrated for its medicinal qualities. John de Bampton, a Carmelite,John de Bampton.who was the first who publicly read Aristotle in Cambridge, was born here: he died in 1391. The manufactures of the place are serges and pottery.

Market, Saturday.—Fairs, Whit Tuesday, and last Thursday in October, for cattle.

[C] BAMPTON. Here are some slight remains of an ancient castle, supposed to have been erected in the reign of King John. The celebrated poet, John Philips, the son of Dr. Stephen Philips, archdeaconJohn Philips the poet.of Salop, was born in this town, on the 30th of December, 1676, and after the preliminary process of juvenile education, was sent to Winchester, where he was distinguished by the superiority of his exercises, and at school endeared himself to all his companions and superiors: it is related of him, that he seldom mingled in the play of other boys, but retired to his chamber, and indulged in the study of the poets and of the ancient and modern classics, particularly Milton. In 1694, he was removed to Christchurch, Oxford, where he finished all his University acquirements; but Milton—the immortal Milton—continued to be his uninterrupted day dream: and he might have exclaimed in the language of that poet, I will study the magnificence of thy etherial phantasy,

"From morn till noon, from noon to dewey eve,When Urania visits my nightlySlumbers, or when morn purples the east."

It is said that there was not an allusion in "Paradise Lost," drawn from any hint either in "Homer," or "Virgil," to which he could not immediately refer. While at Oxford he was honoured with the friendship of Mr. Edmund Smith, author of the Tragedy of "Phaedra and Hippolitus;" and also withPhilips's poetical works.that of the most polite and favoured of the gentlemen in the University. His first poem was published in 1703, entitled, "The Splendid Shilling," which has the merit of an original design. His next poem, entitled "Blenheim," which he wrote as a rival to Addison's poem on the same subject, was published in 1705, and procured him the patronage of Mr. Henry Saint John, afterwards Lord Bolingbroke. Independent of poetry, Philips was an excellent botanist; in 1706 he produced his third poem on "Cyder," founded on the model of Virgil's Georgics, a book not only of entertainment but of science; and soon afterwards, a latin Ode, "to Henry Saint John, Esq.," said to have been the poet's masterpiece. "It is gay and elegant," says Dr. Johnson, "and exhibits several artful accommodations of classic expressions to new purposes." At the time of his illness, Philips was meditating a poem to be called "The Last Day;" death put an end to so solemn and majestic a finale of genius. He died at Hereford, of a lingering consumption, February 15, 1708, in the thirty-third year of his age, and was buried in the cathedral of that city. Sir Simon Harcourt, afterwards Lord Chancellor, erected a monument to his memory in Westminster Abbey, the epitaph upon which was written byCharacter and death.Doctor Atterbury. Philips was a gentleman of a modest and amiable disposition, "and always praised without contradiction," (says Dr. Johnson) "as a man, modest, blameless, and pious, who bore a narrow fortune without discontent—and tedious and painful maladies without impatience; beloved by those who knew him, but not ambitious to be known."

Market, Wednesday.—Fairs, March 26, and August 26, for cattle and toys.

[A] BAMPTON. The river Lowther runs through this parish. Here is a beautiful lake, called Haweswater, three miles long, and half a mileHaweswater lake.broad; it is environed by lofty mountains, conveying to the mind a grand and imposing appearance: its eastern side is sheltered by rocky eminences, plentifully clothed with verdure, while the western side displays the open fields, with all the sweet varieties of culture. A lead mine has lately been discovered in the neighbourhood. The free grammar-school was founded by Thomas Sutton, D.D., who vested in trustees the sum of £500., collected from estates out of the parish of St. Saviour, Southwark, and other places. Here, also, three parochial libraries were established respectively, in the years 1710, 1750, 1752, comprising about 800 volumes. Thomas Gibson, M.D., who married the daughter of Richard Cromwell, Protector,Dr. Thomas Gibson.was Physician-General of the army, and a native of this parish. He was the author of a system of anatomy. The learned doctor, having laid the foundation of his classical learning at a school in this county, he entered as scholar at Queen's College, Oxford, in 1686. The study of the northern languages about this period was particularly cultivated at the University, and Mr. Gibson rigidly applied himself to that branch of literature, in which he was assisted by Dr. Hicks. In a short time he translated into Latin the "Chronicon Saxonicum," and published it together with the Saxon original. Dr. Gibson had an early and strong inclination to search the antiquities of his own country, and being well versed in the knowledge of its original languages, he applied himself with great diligence, and in a few years produced his edition of "Camden's Britannica,"An Antiquarian.and concluded this branch of learning with "Reliquæ Spelmannianæ," or the posthumous works of Sir Henry Spelman, relating to the laws and antiquities of England, which, with a life of the author, he published at Oxford, in 1698, and dedicated his work to Archbishop Tenison. About this time he was taken as Domestic Chaplain to the Archbishop's family, and soon afterwards was made Rector of Lambeth, and Archdeacon of Surrey. Upon the death of the Archbishop, in 1715, Dr. Wake, Bishop of Lincoln, succeeded him, and Dr. Gibson was appointed to that See; and Dr. Robinson also dying, in 1720, Gibson was appointed Bishop ofMade Bishop of London.London. The ministry were so sensible of his great abilities, that a sort of ecclesiastical ministry was committed to his charge for several years. He died on the 6th of September, 1748, with true Christian fortitude, and in perfect tranquillity of mind.

[A] BANBURY is pleasantly situated on the small river Charwell, and its staple commodities seem to be cheese and cakes; the former, even in Shakspeare's time, appear to have been celebrated, for Bardolph, when accusedCheese and cakes.by "Slender" of robbing him of his two milled sixpences, exclaims, "You Banbury cheese." The cakes have made this town more celebrated than even its political engagements. The castle of Banbury was founded in the year 1153, by Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, and continued an episcopal residence till the reign of Henry VI. During the contentions between the houses of York and Lancaster, when civil discord was a familiar incident in this neighbourhood, Banbury suffered much; but more particularly in the memorable engagement, called "The Battle of Banbury," foughtBattle of Banbury.about three miles from the town, in 1469. It took place on a plane called Danesmoor, near Edgecote. The Earl of Warwick was the commander of the Lancasterian forces, and the Yorkists were led by the Earls of Stafford and Pembroke, who had possession of the town. After one of the most determined conflicts ever recorded, the Yorkists were routed; the Earl of Pembroke and his brother were both taken and beheaded, and Edward IV. himself made prisoner a few days after. In 1642, the towns-people took part with the Parliament, but after the battle of Edgehill, this castle was taken by the royalists, under Sir William Compton, who defended it for 13 weeks against all the efforts of Sir John Fiennes, until the garrison was relieved by the Earl of Northampton. It suffered a further siege of 10 weeks, under Sir William Waller, and surrendered on honourable terms. Leland, who wrote in the Reign of Henry VIII., says, "In this castle is a terrible prison for convict men." A stone vault, with grated windows, and traces of the inner ditch, is supposed to have beenOnce a celebrated grammarschool.the terrible prison alluded to, but very small remains exist in the present day. The free grammar-school is now wholly abandoned, and the school-house let out on lease by the corporation. This is much to be regretted, as it was formerly held in such high estimation, that the statutes of this establishment were taken as a model for St. Paul's school, London; and the statutes of the free grammar-school of Manchester, in 1524, ordain, that the grammar taught in that school, should be taught only "after the manner of the school at Banbury, in Oxfordshire, which is called Stanbridge's Grammar." Mr. Stanbridge, the celebrated grammarian alluded to, was a highly learned man, and tutor to Sir Thomas Pope. Adjoining the Ram Inn is a sulphurous well, and at a small distance from the town is a chalybeate spring. The pyrites aureus, or golden fire-stone, is frequently found in this neighbourhood. Among other interesting remains about the town is an ancient hospital, dedicated to St. John, now converted into a farm-house. This borough returns one member to parliament, as it did before the passing of the Reform Bill.Electors.The electors of the old constituency were but 18 in number, but the £10. householders are about 365. The borough comprises the parish, and the returning-officer is the Mayor.

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