Chapter 17

Markets, Tuesday and Saturday.—Fairs, First Tuesday in Lent, April 21, July 5, Aug. 21, Oct. 11, and Dec. 19, for all kinds of cattle.—Mailarrives 1.14 morning; departs 2.54 afternoon.—Banker, Thomas Barnard, draws on Kay and Co.—Inns, George, and Swan.

[A] BEDLINGTON, though within the county of Northumberland, belongs to Chester ward, in the county of Durham. It lies between the rivers Wansbeck and Blythe. The monks of Durham, in their flight to Lindisfarne, before the arms of the Conqueror, with the incorruptible body of St. Cuthbert, rested all night here. The Rev. Francis Woodmas, the expositor of St. Chrysostom, was vicar here from 1696 to 1710. TheBlast furnaces.Bedlington blast furnace, for smelting iron, was some years since taken down. At the Bebside and Bedlington Mills, about fifty men are employed. An unsuccessful attempt was a few years ago made to establish a manufactory of printed cottons at Stannington bridge, in this neighbourhood.

[A] BEDWIN was a market-town, and supposed by Stukeley to have been the Leucomagus of the Romans; it certainly was a chief city of the Saxons, who built a castle there. It was a borough by prescription, sending two members to parliament, and is governed by a portreeve, and exercises many of its original rights, although considerably reduced in population. The church, a cruciform building of flints, with a central tower, is ancient and curious in itself, and for the monuments which it contains. The obtusely pointed arches of the nave, ornamented with zig-zag and billetted mouldings, rest on capitals, richly adorned with flowers, grotesque heads, and other figures. In the south transept are two tombs, which commemorate Adam and Roger de Stocre, Lords, according to Leland, of "Stoke Haulle thereby." The chancel contains the noble altar monument of Sir John Seymour, of Wolphall, father of the Protector, Somerset, and other distinguished persons. Near this tomb are two brass plates, on one of which is the figure of a lady, with her hands folded, and the inscription—"Julia Seymour;" the other commemoratesMonument of Julia Seymour, sister to Lady Jane Grey.a son of Sir John Seymour. The manor of Bedwin, which once belonged to Gilbert, Earl of Clare, husband of Anna d'Acres, was purchased by the late Earl of Aylesbury. This place gave birth, in 1621, to Dr. Thomas Willis, a learned physician, who wrote several works on his art, was appointed physician in ordinary to Charles II., and died of pleurisy in 1675. On Castle-hill is an entrenchment, in area two acres, with some foundations, supposed to be those of a castle, founded by the Saxons. Chisbury Castle is an entrenchment more than fifteen acres in extent, supposed to have been begun by the Britons, and sometime occupied by the Romans. The neighbouring village of Little Bedwin has a church built of flints, in the Anglo-Norman style of architecture, with a nave, aisles, chancel, and tower.

Market, formerly Tuesday (disused).—Fairs, April 23, and July 26, for horses, cows, and sheep.

[B] BEERALSTON. This place once had the privilege of sending two members to parliament. It is chiefly inhabited by labourers employed in agriculture and mining. The borough was under the influence of the Earl of Beverley. The right of election was vested in those who had land in the borough, and paid three-pence acknowledgment to the Lord of the Manor, who varied the number of electors at his pleasure, by grantingElectioneering abuses.burgage-tenures, which were generally resigned when the election was concluded, to as many of his partisans as were requisite. The portreeve, chosen annually in the Lord's court, was the returning-officer. The first members were returned in the twenty-seventh of Elizabeth. Risdon mentions that Beare was bestowed by William the Conqueror on a family descended from the house of Alencon in France, and that it still continues its name under the corruption of Bere-Alson. In the reign of Henry II., Henry Ferrers had a castle here, which came to the possession of his descendant Martin Ferrers, the last of the house, in the time of Edward III. The manor then came to the Champernounes, and passed respectively through the families of Willoughby, Mountjoy, Maynard, and Stamford, to the present possessor, the Duke of Northumberland. In this place are several lead-mines, now of inconsiderable value, though sometimes impregnated with silver; but in the reign of Edward I., it is said, that in the space of three years 1,600 pounds weight of silver was obtained. Since that time no considerable quantity has ever been procured.

[A] BERE FERRIS. This parish is situated south by west from Tavistock. Here, observes Risdon, "lieth Ley, the ancient possession of a family so called, whence the name tooke that honor; for from hence Sir James Ley, Knt., Lord Chief Justice of England, and High Treasurer, created afterwards Earle of Marlborough, descended; a lawgiver in the chief place of justice, and a preserver of venerable antiquity, whose noble thoughts were so fixed on virtue, and his discourses embellished with wisdome, and his heart with integrity, that his words did never bite, nor his actions wrong any man, to give him just cause of complaynt."A honest lawyer.Amongst several ancient monuments in Bere-Ferris Church, is one under an arched recess, of a cross-legged knight half inclined on his right side, with his right hand on his sword; and another of a knight and his lady, under a richly ornamented arch in the chancel. Among the figures painted on the east window is that of William Ferrers, who was probably the builder of this fabric, as he is represented kneeling, and holding the model of a church in his hand.

[B] BERE REGIS is situated in the Blandford division of the county. Drs. Stukeley and Coker conjecture that this place was the site of a Roman station; an opinion which is confirmed by a large entrenchment upon Woodbury Hill, about half a mile north-east of the parish. The area of this place, which contains about ten acres, is surrounded by triple ramparts, that in some places are high and deep. On the summit, which commands a very extensive prospect, a fair is annually holden. This fair begins on the Nativity of the Virgin, and continues through the five following days: though of late years it has much decreased; it was once the most considerable in the west of England. Queen Elfrida, to whom the manor belonged, is said to have retired to her seat in this place, after theThe residence of Queen Elfrida.murder of her son-in-law, Edward the Martyr. King John also appears to have made it his residence. In the reign of Henry III. the manor was bestowed on Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester; but, as a consequence attending his rebellion, it was taken from him, and granted to the King's brother, Edmund. Edmund gave a moiety of it to the Abbess of Tarent, who, in the reign of Edward I. claimed for her manor of Bere a fair, a market, a free-warren, and the whole forest of Bere. Her moiety of these was granted her. At the dissolution, Henry VIII., for the sum of £680. 16s. 8d. granted the manor to Robert Turberville, to whose ancestors the other moiety had belonged for ages. The mansion of the Turbervilles still remains: it is an ancient irregular structure, built with stone, and its windows contain various quarterings of the Turberville family and its alliances. Bere Regis, though it does not appear ever to have been represented in parliament, was incorporated in the time of Edward I. Its market is ancient, as appears from King John's having confirmed it to the inhabitants. The church is a large and handsome structure, and contains numerous monuments of the Turberville and other families. The town of Bere Regis has suffered twice by fire: once in 1634, and again in 1788. After the latter fire the inhabitants found shelter in the booths erected for the fair. The most distinguished natives of the place have been James Turberville, Bishop of Exeter, and John Morton, Archbishop of Canterbury.

Market, Wednesday.—Fair, September 18.

[A] BEES, (ST.) This ancient village is situated in the Ward of Allerdale, west by north from Egremont. It is understood to have derived its name and origin from a religious house, which was founded here about the year 650, by St. Bega, an Irish nun of great sanctity. On the death of Bega,Early history.a church was erected in honour of her virtues; but both these establishments having been destroyed by the Danes, William, son of Ranulph de Meschines, replaced them by a new foundation of Benedictine monks, and made it a cell to the Abbey of St. Mary at York: in the time of Henry I. The manor was granted after the dissolution to Sir Thomas Chaloner, by Edward VI. in the last year of his reign. It next became the property of a family named Wyberg, from whom, under a fore-closed mortgage, it passed to an ancestor of the Earl of Lonsdale, about the year 1663. St. Bees church, which was erected about the time of Henry I., had the form of a cross, and great part of it is yet standing. The east-end is unroofed, and in ruins: the nave, however, is fitted up as the parish church, and the cross aisle is used as a place of sepulchre. The ancient chancel has narrow lancet windows, ornamented with double mouldings, and pilasters, with rich capitals. At the east end are niches, of a singular form, with pointed arches, supported on well proportioned pillars, having capitals adorned with rich engravings. The whole edifice is of red free-stone. A free grammar school was founded in the village of St. Bees by Archbishop Girandal, under a charter from Queen Elizabeth, towards the close of the sixteenth century. This prelate was born in the neighbouring village of Helsingham, in the year 1519. He was educated at Cambridge, where he obtained a fellowship at Pembroke Hall. Being attached to the principles of the Reformation, Bishop Ridley made him his chaplain, and precentor of St. Pauls. He was also appointed chaplain to the King, and prebendary of Westminster; but on the accession of Mary he retired to Germany, and settled at Strasburgh. When Elizabeth ascended the throne he returned home, and was employed in revising the Litany. In 1559 he was chosen master of Pembroke Hall, and the sameArchbishop Girandal.year preferred to the see of London, from whence, in 1570 he was translated to York, and in 1575 to Canterbury. Two years afterwards he was suspended from his archiepiscopal functions, for refusing to obey the Queen's order to suppress prophecyings, or the associations of the clergy to expound the Scriptures. His sequestration was taken off, though he never completely recovered the royal favour. He died at Croydon, 1583. He contributed to Fox's acts and monuments. James I. afterwards increased the endowments, which have been since augmented by divers benefactors. Several scholars of great eminence have received the rudiments of education in this seminary. It is remarkable, however, that, till a few years ago, the school had not undergone any material change since its foundation. Occasional repairs were indeed found absolutely necessary for the support of the buildings, but no improvement seems ever to have been attempted. Through the munificence of the Earl of Lonsdale this long respected seminary has been put into complete order, and made more suitable to the purpose intended by the pious founder than it had been at any time since its erection. Exclusive of what has been done at the spacious school-room, the library is rendered more commodious. The master's house, which adjoins the school, has been enlarged, some parts of it rebuilt, a good garden well walled round, and the whole made a very comfortable and eligible residence.

[A] BEESTON. Near this village are the remains of a castle, once deemed impregnable; it is situated on a sandstone rock, 366 feet in perpendicular height. So strong was this fortress considered, that it became a proverb in the neighbourhood to say, "It is as strong as Beeston Castle." The area contains five acres, and was rendered unapproachable by means of a very wide ditch. In the reign of Charles I. it underwent a lengthened siege, or rather blockade, for all communications were cut off with the neighbourhood for a long term; at last it was compelled to surrender, and the parliament ordered it to be dismantled. During the period of the threatened invasion of the French, in 1803, this castle was fixed upon by the lieutenancy of the county, as the site for a signal station and beacon. The ancient and craggy walls are beautifully mantled over with a luxuriantCastle on a rock.covering of ivy, and the base of the hill abounds with several varieties of rare plants. The well of the castle is nearly 300 feet deep, and the peasantry firmly believe that it contains a vast store of riches, which have been thrown into it during the civil wars. A mineral spring was discovered here a few years ago. The inhabitants of Chester consider it a favourite holiday indulgence to visit this castle in a pleasure excursion; and by application to an old woman in the village, who may beA favourite place of resort.considered the female warden of the place, travellers can be conducted to the summit of the building. The views from the ramparts are beautiful, extending over the whole Vale Royal of Cheshire, to the estuaries of the rivers Mersey and Dee: that side of the hill which forms a precipice rises perpendicularly 160 feet from the base of the elevation, and upon looking down from the high pinnacle of the castle wall, it is sufficient to call to remembrance the sublime poetic effusion of our immortal bard:—

"How fearfulAnd dizzy 'tis, to cast ones eyes so low,The crows and choughs, that wing the mid-way air,Shew scarce as gross as beetles."I'll look no more,Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight,Topple down headlong."

[B] BEETHOM. This mountainous and highly interesting parish is situated in the Kendal Ward, at the south-western extremity of the county of Westmoreland, on both sides of estuaries of the river Kent, which is navigable for small craft as far as the hamlet of Storch, and comprises the chapelries of Witherslack, and the townships of Beetham, Farleton, Haverbrack, and Methop, with Ulpha. The parish church is dedicated to St. Michael, the patron saint of mountainous and hilly parishes: it is a neat building, situated in a fine vale, or holm ground, commanding the richest variety of wood, water, and rocky scenery. Here are two fine old monuments to the memory of Thomas de Beetham and his lady, who lived in the reign of Richard III. Here was anciently a chapel, dedicated to St. John, and near it, in a garden, a considerable number of human bones were dug up; it was situated about forty yards from the present school-house. Some few years since a mole cast up an amber bead, and with it an oval piece of silver, about the size of a shilling; it was perforated through the middle, and on one side was an impression of the crucifixion, with the letters J.N.R.J.; on the right of which was a crescent, and on the left a rising sun; at the bottom, the Virgin Mary, in a weeping attitude: on the reverse, a lamb, with a standard, and St. Andrews' cross. The parsonage, or rectory-house, which stood on the north-east corner of the churchyard, was formerly called the college of St. Mary's. The Hilton family had also a handsome house near this spot, which was enlarged and improved by George Hilton, an eccentric squire,George Hilton, an eccentric character.and well known character in this neighbourhood about the commencement of the last century. This George Hilton was a Roman Catholic, and joined the Scotch rebels in 1715, upon whose defeat he made his escape, but was pardoned by the act of grace the year following, and afterwards retired to a house which he built at the south end of Beethom Park. Mr. Hutton, the historian of this place, says, "that he discovered a diary, in an old chest, which was kept by this gentleman, taken by himself every night, but which was afterwards lost. 'On Sunday, (says he in one place,) I vowed to abstain from three things during the ensuing week (Lent), viz. women, eating of flesh, and drinking of wine; but, alas! the frailty of good resolutions. I broke them all! Conversed with a woman—was tempted to eat the wing of a fowl—and got drunk at Milnthorp.'" Of this parish the Rev. William Hutton was vicar, who wrote a folio book of collections for its history, which he deposited in the vestry for the information of posterity, with blank pages to be filled up as materials should occur. He was an amiable man, and an indefatigable antiquarian. The old manor house, called the Hall of Beethom, was a fine old castellated mansion, but now unfortunately in ruins. One large apartment in this castle is still called the hall, and accordingThe Hall.to the laudable practice of ancient hospitality, was devoted to the purpose of entertaining the friends and dependants of the family: and hence came the proverb—

"'Tis merry in the hallWhen beards wag all."

The remains of a room, formerly used as a chapel, still exist; and the ruins of this fine mansion are of considerable extent. The ruins of another hall in this parish are also to be seen in Cappleside Demesne, consisting of a front and two wings, comprising an extent of 117 feet of frontage. Also an ancient tower, now in ruins, called Helslack Tower: and another tower, called Arnside Tower; equally neglected. These towers seem to have been intended to guard the Bay of Morecambe, as similar buildings are erected on the opposite side of the river. A grammar school was founded here in 1663, and rebuilt in 1827. It has an endowment of about £40. a year, arising out of lands bequeathed for the instruction of fifty poor boys.

[A] BELCHAMP, or Belchamp Wallers, in the hundred of Hinckford, lies north-east by north from Castle Headingham. The church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is lofty and neat, and contains an orchestra, with a fine toned organ. Here is a capacious vault which belongs to the Raymond family; and an elegant marble monument dedicated to them in the chancel. Mrs. Raymond has established in this village a SundayBelchamp Hall.school for fifty children belonging to the poor. Belchamp Hall, in this parish, is the residence of the Raymond's, one of whose ancestors came into England with the Conqueror, and whose family have resided in this neighbourhood upwards of two centuries. The house is a substantial and commodious building, whose principal or south-eastern front is for the most part composed of foreign bricks. It is situated on a pleasant lawn, sloping gradually to a small river, within 200 yards of the front. A spacious and extensive terrace, skirted with lofty trees, at the end of which is an ancient building, ornamented with painted glass, lies to the south. At the other end is a lofty mount, with another ornamental building on its summit. This mansion contains an interesting collection of pictures by some of the most esteemed masters; among them are the following:—The Wise Men's Offering, an altar-piece; Albert Durer. This picture, with a large gun, some pistols, and powder flasks, inlaid with gold and ivory, were presented to the Raymonds, by Sir William Harris, a sea-officer, who took them, with other property, on the defeat of the Spanish Armada, in 1588. A three-quarter portrait of Sir Hugh Middleton, Bart., in whose public spirit the New river originated, and another of his wife, are both by Cornelius Jansen. Goldingham Hall, in the parish of Bulmer, adjoining Belchamp, was the residence of Sir Hugh.

[B] BELFORD is a little market town pleasantly situated on the side of a hill about two miles from the river Lear, and being a post-town, and on the great north road, has several good inns. The buildings in general are neat, and the church is a handsome structure, erected in 1700. Near this place on a rising ground, are the ruins of an ancient chapel, surrounded by several tall oaks; and at a little distance, are the remains of a Danish camp, apparently of great strength, surrounded by a deep ditch. The annual races formerly run at Beadnall, now take place at this town.

Market, Tuesday—Fairs, Tuesday before Whit-Sunday, and August 23, for black cattle, sheep, and horses. The Edinburgh Mail arrives 7.49 morning; departs 3.36 afternoon.—Inn, Blue Bell.

[C] BELLEAU. At this place, which takes it name from the excellent springs that issue from the chalk hills in the neighbourhood, are the ruins of what is called the Abbey. These consist of part of a turret, and twoAbbey Ruins.gateways, which convey an idea of its being a place of considerable importance. The walls are covered with ivy, and overhung with lofty ash trees. After the civil war, this place was granted to the eccentric Sir Harry Vane, who used to amuse himself on Sundays in assembling here his country neighbours, to whom he addressed his pious discourses. The church of Belleau is said, by Gough, to have been attached to the neighbouring monastery of Ailby; but neither Tanner nor the Monasticon mention such a religious house.

[A] BELLINGHAM, lies N. N W. from Hexham. It gave name to an ancient family, who were seated here in 1378. Some ruins of their castle still remain. The chapel, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is roofed with stone arches in rib-work: there are many gravestones in its floor, sculptured with swords, and other warlike emblems. Nearly opposite, on the south side of the North Tyne, is Heslieside, the seat of the Charlton family, since the time of Edward the Sixth. The old mansion-house, built after the manner of Lowther Hall, in Westmoreland, was burnt down about eighty years ago, and then rebuilt. The present edifice stands on a gentle eminence: the grounds are well wooded, and diversified with fine sheep-walks; and the gardens and fruit walls are very productive. Five miles above this place is Falstone chapel; and about seven miles further up is Keelder Castle, formerly the residence of a famous border chieftain, but at present a shooting-box of the Duke of Northumberland. The moors here are scattered over with cairns, tumuli, and Druidical monuments. Of Tarset Hall, about two miles above Heslieside, only some slight remains are visible. Of Chipchase Castle, the old tower still remains. ItsChipchase Castle.roof is built on corbels, and it has openings through which to throw down stones or scalding water upon an enemy. The tattered fragments of Gothic painting on the walls, are exceedingly curious. Soon after it came to the family, (its present owners,) the mansion was thoroughly repaired, and much improved; the chapel on the lawn was rebuilt, the gardens made, and the grounds covered with extensive plantations. This delightful residence is surrounded with scenery of the richest and most enchanting kind. The rooms in it are fitted up in a splendid style, and ornamented with several excellent paintings. A bridge was erected over the Burn at the east end of the town in 1826.

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