Chapter 3

Fairs, February 6, March 9, Easter Thursday, Thursday fortnight after Easter, Whit-Thursday; and every second Thursday thence to Michaelmas, for lean cattle; November 5, and December 23.

[C] St. AGNES is situated on the Bristol Channel. The town and parish, including a considerable mining district, is thickly strewed with the cottages of the miners. It is more frequently called LighthouseVery high and strong light-house.Island, from a very high and strong light-house erected here, to warn the mariner from the rocks, which are more numerous about this than any other of the Scilly Islands. This building is upwards of sixty feet high, and stands on the most elevated ground. The light is produced by twenty-one parabolic reflectors of copper, plated with silver, and having each an argand lamp in its focus. The reflectors are disposed of in three clusters, of seven in each cluster, and the frame in which they are fixed stands perpendicularly to the horizon, on a shaft united to a machine below, which makes the whole revolve every two minutes. By this motion the light progressively sweeps the whole horizon; and by its gradual intermission and increase, it is readily distinguished from any other. Its brilliancy is also extraordinary; and by these combined efforts its benefits are greatly increased, as the seaman is at once rendered completely sensible of his situation. This light was designed by the ingenious Mr. Adam Walker, (lecturer on natural and experimental philosophy,) under whose inspection it was constructed. The light-house itself is of stone, and was erected, as appears from an inscription over the door, by Captain Hugh Till, and Captain Simon Bayley, in the year 1680. The charges attending the light are defrayed by the Trinity House. At St. Agnes is a pilchardSt. Agnes' beacon.fishery. St. Agnes' Beacon, six hundred and sixty-four feet above the level of the sea, is formed out of an ancient cairn, or tumulus of stones; near which, a summer-house has been built, from whence is a fine view of St. Ives, and an extensive sea prospect. Near the same spot is St. Agnes' Well, of which many miraculous stories are in circulation, from its presumed holy and sanative properties.

This place gave birth to John Opie, whose persevering geniusBirthplace of John Opie, the painter.advanced him to the highest rank in his profession. He was born at Harmony Cot, in May 1761. The opening years of his existence indicated that he must plod through life in the dull occupation of a carpenter, as successor to his father and grandfather. He distinguished himself at a very early period, for originality and strength of mind, and at twelve years of age commenced an evening school in St. Agnes, teaching arithmetic and writing, and reckoning amongst his scholars some who had nearly doubled his years. His first humble attempts atFirst attempts at portrait painting.portrait painting were with a smutty stick, against the white-washed wall of his paternal cottage, where he exhibited, indark colours, very striking likenesses of the whole family. His next step was to draw with ochre on cartridge paper. He was apprenticed to his father, but from some unascertainable cause was turned over to a sawyer; and it was literally in the bottom of a saw-pit that Dr. Walcot, better known by the appellation of Peter Pindar, (who had previously seen and admired some of Opie's rude drawings,) first beheld this untutoredGenius fostered by Dr. Walcot.child of genius, under whose patronage he was protected, and his fame promoted. After visiting Exeter, (where he was persuaded to change his surname, which originally was Hoppy, to that of Opie,) finding his success was commensurate with his abilities, it was soon determined they should be brought to act in a wider sphere; and, in 1780, the Doctor and his pupil repaired to London, where not agreeing as to the mode of living together, they separated, and although their attachment had been cemented by long-continued kindness, subsequently toAnecdotes of Opie.this period, yet they were never after cordially united. The opinion Opie entertained of the services which he had received from the Doctor, may be gathered from the following curiousnote of hand, which was said to be in the possession of the latter: "I promise to paint, for Dr. Walcot, any picture or pictures, he may demand, as long as I live; otherwise, I desire the world will consider me as a ... ungrateful son of a ..., John Opie." It is not certain that he ever deviated from this voluntary obligation, but it is matter of pleasant remark, that he always made his friend pay eighteen-pence for the canvass! Opie was as fortunate inIntroduction to the King.London as he had been at Exeter. To Pindar, however, he was indebted for his introduction to public notice. Through him his pictures were shown to Mrs. Boscawen, by whom Opie was introduced to the late Mrs. Delaney, who procured for him the notice of King George III. An opportunity was contrived for the royal family to see his picture of theThe Old Beggar Man; soon after which, Opie was honoured with a command to repair to Buckingham House. The artist's account of this interview was given in the following characteristical manner to Walcot, who has often been heard to relate it with great humour. "There was Mr. West," said Opie, "in the room,Opie's relation of his interview with royalty.and another gentleman. First, her majesty came in; and I made a sad mistake in respect to her, till I saw her face, and discovered by her features that she was the queen. In a few minutes his majesty came hopping in. I suppose," said Opie, "because he did not wish to frighten me. He looked at the pictures and liked them; but he whispered to Mr. West—'tell the young man I can only pay a gentleman'sRoyal economy.price for them.'" The picture which his majesty bought was that ofA Man Struck by Lightning. The price given was £10, with which Opie returned to the Doctor full of spirits. His friend, when he heard the story, said, "Why, John, thou hast only got £8. for thy picture." "Indeed, but I have though," cried Opie, "for I have got the £10. safe in my pocket." On this he showed him the money. "Aye," rejoined the Doctor, "but dost thou know his majesty has got the frame for nothing, and that is worth £2." "D—- it, so he has," cried Opie—"I'll go back and knock at the door, and ask for the frame; D—- it, I will." He was actually about to put his resolve into execution, till dissuaded by the Doctor. Popularity naturally followed this notice of royalty. The ladies, however, soon deserted him, as his likenesses were not flattering; for where Nature had been niggardly, Opie refused to be liberal. He afterwards became better acquainted with the art of pleasing them; a change which has been attributed to Mrs. Opie, who used to stand over him, and endeavour to make him sensible of the graces of the female form. It was in the year 1786,First known as an exhibitor at Somerset House, 1786.that Mr. Opie became known as an exhibitor at Somerset House; soon after which he aspired to academical honours, and ultimately attained the rank of Royal Academician, and afterwards succeeded Fuseli, in the professorship of painting. He was twice married, but at what period his first hymeneal union occurred we are not informed—it was inauspicious. His second marriage, which took place on May 8, 1798, was more fortunate; and in the society of the late Mrs. Opie, the amiable author of many beautiful and interesting literary compositions, he enjoyed a delightful relief from the toilsome duties of his profession. Mr. Opie was in the daily acquisition of wealth and fame, and rapidly advancing to the very zenith of popularity, when his mortal career was suddenly closed by death, on Thursday, April 9, 1807, in theDied in 1807.forty-sixth year of his age. "As a portrait painter he has great claims to praise, particularly in his men, which are firm, bold, and freely delineated, and occasionally well coloured. His women are heavy, inelegant, and chiefly accompanied with a hardness that destroys all beauty."

[A] St. ALBANS is situated on the river Ver, or Muss, and consists of three parishes; parts of two of which, extend beyond the limits of theOriginally the British metropolis.borough. It is said to have been the site of the ancient British metropolis of Cassibelanus, and is very near that of the ancient Roman Verulam, mentioned by Tacitus, being the same as the Saxon Watlingceaster, so called because seated on the road called Watling-street. It was here that Queen Boadicea made her celebrated assault on the Romans, and failed, after an immense slaughter of seventy thousand men. In 795, Offa, king of Mercia, erected an abbey here, in memory of St. Alban, the British protomartyr, who was born here in the third century. He served in the Roman army, but was converted to Christianity by a monk, named Amphilabus, and suffered during the Dioclesian persecution, A.D. 303. The abbey subsequently obtained great privileges, and became very rich, the revenues at the dissolution amounting to upwards of £2500. per annum. Monastic foundations had their origin in this country, about the time of St. Augustine, who came from Rome, to convert the Pagan Saxons to Christianity; and when Offa ascended the throne of Mercia, about twenty great monasteries had been founded in England, and about the same number of episcopal sees established. Offa's zeal prompted him to do what many of his crowned predecessorsKing Offa's extraordinary vision, which induced him to build the abbey.had done; but being undetermined whom to select as the patron saint of his establishment, it is recorded that, while at the city of Bath, an angel appeared to him in the silence of the night, desiring him to raise out of the earth the body of Alban, the first British martyr, and place his remains in a suitable shrine. Even the memory of Alban had been lost for three hundred and forty years; but the king assembling his clergy and people at Verulam, an active search was made for his body with prayer, fasting, and alms; when it is said a ray of light was seen by all to stand over the place of burial, similar to the star that conducted the magi to Bethlehem. The ground was therefore opened, and, in the presence of the king, the body of Alban was found. Offa is said to have placed a golden circle round the head of theSt. Alban's body found after a lapse of 494 years; a golden circle placed round his head.deceased, with an inscription, to signify his name and title, and immediately caused the remains of the saint to be conveyed to a small chapel, without the walls of Verulam, as the town was then called, until a more noble edifice could be raised for its reception. This is said to have occurred on the 1st day of August, 791, four hundred and ninety-four years after the martyrdom of Alban. Offa afterwards made a journey to Rome, and obtained the desired privileges of his intended foundation, with great commendations for his zeal and piety, from the pope, when he undertook to build a stately church and monastery, to the memory of St. Alban. From this abbey the town originated, which early obtained considerable importance. The abbey church, which claims particular attention for its size, beauty, and antiquity, is constructed of Roman brick, to which age has given the appearance of stone. A stone screen, erected before the communion table, in 1461, is much admired for the richness and lightness of its sculpture. The tombs of the founder, Offa, and that of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, are shown here; and, notDuke of Gloucester's body found nearly entire.many years ago, the leaden coffin, containing the body of the latter, was opened, and the corpse found nearly entire. The Roman antiquities discovered on the site have been very numerous. The effect of the venerable abbey, when seen from a distance, is extremely imposing; situated upon an eminence, its massive towers rise majestically above the houses of the ancient town, which is well, known to have derived its first importance from the Romans, since which, it has increased chiefly under the protecting influence of successive abbots of this rich and powerful monastery. The prospect of its mouldering ruins, forces upon the mind a melancholy train of reflection on the instability of all human institutions.

Market, Saturday.—Fairs, March 25 and 26; October 10 and 11, for horses, cows, sheep, and hiring servants.—Inns, Angel, and White Hart.—Mailarrives 10.15 P.M. Departs 4.30 A.M.

[A] ALCESTER is situated at the confluence of the two small rivers, Alne and Arrow, having a bridge over each. It is supposed to have been a Roman station; Roman coins, urns, and similar relics,A Roman station.having been frequently found here. The Roman way of Icknield Street also passed through it, and from its situation it is deemed the Alana of Richard of Cirencester. It was anciently a borough by prescription,Many relics of antiquity found.and of some note in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, when it became the property of the Beauchamps, and afterwards of the Grevilles. The church is a fine gothic structure; the market is well supplied with corn; and the manufacture of needles is very extensive. Here is a Free School, founded by Walter Newport, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and various alms-houses and small charities, originating in different benefactors. Traces of the site ofTraces of an abbey founded by King Stephen.an abbey, founded in the reign of King Stephen, to the north of the town, are still visible.

Market, Tuesday.—Mailarrives 9½ A.M., departs 8½ P.M.—Inn, Angel.—Fairs, March 20, June 23, Tuesday before April 5, May 18, 2nd Tuesday in July, for cheese.

[B] ALDBOROUGH.Fair, September 4.[C] ALDBOURN.Market, Tuesday.

[B] ALDBOROUGH.Fair, September 4.

[C] ALDBOURN.Market, Tuesday.

[D] ALDEBURGH is pleasantly situated in the valley of Slaughton, and bounded on the eastern side by the sea, which has made considerable encroachments, and nearly washed a street away. The river Ald runs on the south side, and forms a convenient quay. The town is mean in construction, and chiefly inhabited by fishermen and seafaring people. Soles, lobsters, and other fish are abundant. It is remarkable as the birth-place of the late Rev. George Crabbe, emphatically styledBirth place of the Rev. George Crabbe, the poet. Biographical sketch of his life.thePoet of the Poor, who was born December 24, 1754. His father was an officer in the Customs, and at first gave him an education, merely suitable to follow the same pursuit; but when his prospects brightened, he removed his son to a classical seminary, where he was instructed for a surgeon and apothecary, to which profession he was in due time apprenticed, but relinquished all views of establishing himself in practice. At a very early period he became a versifier; and among his precocious attempts was a prize poem, onHope, which was inserted in theLady's Magazine, then published by Mr. Wheeble. Crabbe came to London, in 1778, with £3. in hisCrabbe's arrival in London, 1778.pocket, and made versification his chief study. His first published work wasThe Candidate, a poem, in quarto, which came into the world anonymously, in 1780, and was favourably received. A short time afterwards, his poverty and poetry induced him to seek theHis first published work well received.patronage of Edmund Burke, to whom he submitted a large quantity of miscellaneous composition; he had no introduction to Mr. Burke, excepting his own letter, stating his circumstances; no recommendation but his distress, and yet his application was attended with success. His patron introduced him to some of the first men in the country, and soon after became the means of benefiting his fame and fortune; he selected from young Crabbe's works,The LibraryandThe Village, suggesting at the same time certain corrections and improvements. Among the eminent persons to whom he was thus introduced, was the Right Hon. Charles James Fox, Sir Joshua Reynolds, at whose mansion he firstCrabbe's introduction to eminent persons.beheld, and was made known to, Dr. Johnson, who gave the young poet his opinion ofThe Village. Mr. Burke having directed Mr. Crabbe's views to the church, in 1781 he was ordained a deacon by the Bishop of Norwich, and priest by the same dignitary in the following year; he was next appointed domestic chaplain to the Duke of Rutland at Belvoir Castle. As Mr. Crabbe had not received a university education, he was offered a degree by Trinity College, Cambridge, but eventually received the grant from the Archbishop of Canterbury, at Lambeth, and thus became a Bachelor of Laws. Burke alsoPromoted to the church.introduced Mr. Crabbe to Lord Chancellor Thurlow, who presented him to rectories in Dorset and Lincoln consecutively. He had previously a curacy at Strathorn, a village near Belvoir Castle, where he married and became a father; he was universally respected for his talents and virtues, and died at Trowbridge, at seven o'clock in the morning ofDied at Trowbridge 1132.the 8th of February, 1832. The publications of Mr. Crabbe have placed him high on the roll of British Poets.

Market, Wednesday and Saturday.—Fairs, March 1, and May 3, for toys.—Inn, White Lion.—Mailarrives at 9½ A.M. departs 5½ P.M.

[A] ALDERMASTON.Fairs, May 6, July 7, for horses and cattle, and October 11, for pedlery.

[B] ALDINGTON. Elizabeth Barton, commonly called the Holy Maid of Kent, a religious impostor, lived in the reign of Henry VIII. She was a servant at Aldington, and having been for a longThe History of the Holy Maid of Kent.time afflicted with convulsions, which distorted her limbs and countenance, and threw her body into the most violent agitations, acquired a power of counterfeiting the same appearances whenever she pleased. Richard Master, who then held this living, with other ecclesiastics, thinking her a proper instrument for their purpose, induced her to pretend that all she said and did, was by a supernatural impulse, and taught her to act her part in the most perfect manner. Thus she pretended to be honoured with visions; to hear heavenly voices and most ravishing melody; she declaimed against the wickedness of the times, against heresy and innovations; exhorting all persons to frequent the church, to hear masses, to make frequent confessions, and to pray to our lady, and all saints. This artful management, with her apparent piety, virtue, and austerity of life, completely deceived even Sir Thomas More, Bishop Fisher, and Archbishop Warham, the last of which appointed commissioners to examine her, to whom she was instructed to say, in her counterfeit trances, that she should never recover till she went to visit the image of the Virgin Mary, in a chapel dedicated to her in this parish, which was done. After that she pretended that she was called to be a nun, and the Archbishop being fully satisfied with the reports, had her placed in the nunnery of St. Sepulchre, Canterbury,Holy Maid of Kent.where she alleged she had visions and revelations of a divine nature, so as to completely impose upon the public. The main object of the priests, her managers, was directed publicly to announce how God had revealed to her, "that in case the king should divorce Queen Catherine of Anjou, and take another wife during her life, his royalty would not be of a month's duration, but that he should die the death of a villain," which created considerable excitement, and much controversy: encouraged by the lenity of the government, the ecclesiastics in this conspiracy, resolved to publish the revelations of the nun throughout the kingdom. They had communicated them to the Pope's Ambassadors, and exhorted Queen Catherine to persist in her resolutions. At length thisThe imposture detected.confederacy became a serious affair, and Henry ordered the maid and her accomplices to be examined in the Star Chamber, where they confessed all the particulars of the imposture; and afterwards, upon a scaffold erected at Paul's Cross, were compelled to hear their confession publicly read; they were confined in the Tower until the meeting of parliament, by whom the whole affair was pronounced to be a conspiracy against the king's life, and crown. The nun, and her confederates, wereHerself and confederates executed at Tyburn.eventually attainted of high treason, and executed at Tyburn, April 20th, 1534, where she confessed the imposture, laying the blame on her accomplices, the priests; craving pardon of God, and the King.

[A] ALDSTONE MOOR, in Leath Ward, is situated on the borders of Northumberland, in the most picturesque and romantic part of thePicturesque and Romantic scenery.county. The town itself stands upon a hill, at the bottom of which runs the river Tyne. The immediate vicinity abounds in lead-mines, on estates which once belonged to the Derwentwater family. On the attainder of the last earl, they were granted in aid of the support of Greenwich Hospital, from the trustees of which national institution, the mines are at present leased. Satin spar is found in this parish; there is also a pool on Gildersdale Fell, the slime of which is used for paintingThe slime of a pool use for painting yellow.yellow. About three miles from the town, are the earthworks of Whitley castle, where relics of antiquity have frequently been discovered.

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