Chapter 7

Markets, Wednesday and Saturday.—Mailarrives 7.40. A.M., departs 5.30. P.M.—Fairs, May 14, cattle and hogs; August 21, hogs, cattle, and sheep; September 25, cattle and sheep; December 17, cattle and pedlary; second Tuesday in every month for cattle.—Bankers, Henty and Co., draw on Lubbock and Co.; Hopkins and Co., draw on Williams and Co.—Inns, Crown, and Norfolk Arms.

[A] ST. ASAPH. This city is seated on the decline of a pleasant eminence, between the rivers Clwyd and Elwy, which renders the first appearance striking, though it contains little more than one street. The church stands in the lower part of the town, and serves for the use of the parishioners, the cathedral not being used for parochial purposes; the latter was built about the close of the fifteenth century; it consists of a choir, a nave, two aisles, and a transept. During the protectorship of Cromwell the palace and cathedral were much injured by the post-master, who made great havocThe font of the cathedral used for watering horses.in the choir of the cathedral, using the font as a trough for watering his horses; and by way of venting his spleen on the clergy, tied up calves in the bishop's throne. Several very eminent men have been bishops of St. Asaph, including Dr. Isaac Barrow, William Beveridge, and Samuel Horsley, the former of whom founded an alms-house for eight poor widows. Bishop Hughes, who died 1600, founded, and endowed the Free Grammar School. The neighbourhood possesses several land proprietors who have given great encouragement to agriculture, amongst whom may be included Dean Shipley, who stimulated the practical farmers to emulation, by premiums, and other encouragement. To this spirited dignitary, so well known in the history of the law of libel, a very handsome monument has been erected in the cathedral.

MarketSaturday.—Fairs, Easter Tuesday, July 15, October 16, December 26, for cattle.—Inn, White Lion.

[B] ASBY, once called Askeby. This parish consists of four manors. The church is ancient, its beauty has been much disfigured by repairs; it has even been diminished in size, as appears by an arch now filled up in the north wall. At Sayle Bottom are several tumuli—some circular, others rectangular. At Garthorne Hall, a tumulus was found to contain human bones and a large sword, and another containing three entire skulls. Pate Hole, in this parish, is a remarkable cavern in a limestone rock,Pate Hole, an immense cavern.consisting of two galleries, one 430 yards long, towards the north east, the other, 230 yards long, making a large sweep from the extremity of the first to its middle; together, they resemble the letter P. At the end of the first gallery is a lofty dome, and a pool 20 yards long, 6 broad, and 3 deep; and in the second are two perpendicular chasms of unknown extent, from whence proceed in rainy seasons torrents of water, which fill the cavern and discharge themselves from its entrance. The noise of these operations resemble at first gentle music, but increases to the pitch of the loudest. In one part is a petrifying spring, which always stands at one temperature.

[A] ASHE is situated in Musbury parish, which lies in the hundred of Axminster, two miles east by north from Colyton. It is the birth place of the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough: this distinguishedThe birth-place of the celebrated Duke of Marlboro'.erson was born here in the year 1650. He received only an indifferent education, for his father took him to court at the age of twelve years, when he became page, as his sister, Arabella, became mistress to the Duke of York. In 1660, he obtained a pair of colours in the Guards. His first service was at the siege of Tangier, and, on his return from thence, he became the favourite of the Duchess of Cleveland, who gave him £5,000 with which he purchased an annuity for life. He afterwards served under the great Turenne, who was so pleased with his person and bravery as to call him the handsome Englishman. At the siege of Maestricht he so distinguished himself, that the King of France publicly thanked him. On his return he was made lieutenant-colonel, gentleman of the bedchamber, and master of the robes to the Duke of York, whom he attended to Holland and Scotland; and about this time married Miss Jennings, maid of honour to the Princess, afterwards Queen Anne. In 1682, he was shipwrecked with the Duke of York, in their passage to Scotland, on which occasion his royal highness expressed the greatest anxiety to save his favourite. The same year he was made a peer, by the title of Baron Eymouth, in Scotland; and when James came to the crown, he was sent to France to notify the event. In 1685, he was created Lord Churchill, of Sandridge. The same year he suppressed Monmouth's rebellion, and took him prisoner.He took Monmouth prisoner in the reign of James II.He continued to serve James with great fidelity, till the arrival of the Prince of Orange, and then left him, for which he has been stigmatized, and perhaps not unjustly, with base ingratitude. His own apology was a regard for the religion and constitution of his country. He was created Earl of Marlborough by King William in 1689, and appointed commander of the English army in the low countries. He next served in Ireland, and reduced Cork, with other strong places. In 1692, he was suddenly dismissed from his employments, and committed to the Tower: he was, however, very soon released, but the cause of this disgrace was never clearly explained. After the death of Queen Mary he was restored to favour; and at the close of that reign he had the command of the English forces in Holland, and the States chose him captain-general of their forces. On the commencement of the reign of Anne, he recommended a war with France, and his advice was adopted. In the first campaign of 1702, he took a number of strong towns, particularly Liege. In the following year heCreated a Duke by Queen Anne.was created a Duke. In 1704, he joined Prince Eugene, in conjunction with whom he conquered the French at Hochstedt, took Marshal Tallard prisoner, and brought him to England, with 26 other officers of rank, 121 standards, and 179 colours. He then received the grant of the manor of Woodstock. In 1706, he fought the famous battle of Ramilies. This battle accelerated the fall of Louvain, Brussels, and other important places. He arrived in England, and received fresh honours from the Queen and Parliament.Blenheim house built for him.Blenheim house was ordered to be built, and a pension of £5,000. a year was awarded him. In 1709, he defeated Marshal Villars at Malplaquet. In the year 1711, he returned to England with additional laurels, but was soon after dismissed from his employments. To add to this unjust treatment, a prosecution was commenced against him for applying the public money to his private purposes. Indignant at such conduct, he went into voluntary banishment till 1714, when he landed at Dover, amidst the acclamations of the people. George I. restored him to his military employments, but he retired from his appointments to Windsor, and died in 1722. His remains were interred with great pomp in Westminster Abbey. HisDied in the 8th year of the reign of Geo. I.Duchess outlived him several years. She was a woman of a strong mind, but overbearing passions. Her letters have been printed, and display uncommon sagacity, blended with a great share of vanity. The mansion house in which the Duke was born, now in a state of ruin, was rebuilt shortly after the civil wars, by Sir John Drake, whose daughter had married Sir Winston Churchill.

Fairs, April 6, and Oct. 11, for pedlary.

[A] ASHBOURN is very pleasantly situated in a rich valley on the eastern side of the Dove, over which is a stone bridge. It is divided into two parts by a rivulet, which is called Henmore, the southern part of which is termed Compton, the ancient Campdene. From the descent of the hill on the Derby road, the view of the place as it presents itself embosomed amongst the hills is beautifully picturesque. It is a neat town, but there is nothing remarkable in its buildings. At the time of the conquest it was a royal manor, and subsequently became a part of the Duchy ofA royal manor of the Saxon Kings made part of the Duchy of Lancaster.Lancaster, until it was sold by Charles I. It is supposed that the church, which is dedicated to St. Oswald, was finished in the thirteenth century; in it are many monuments to the Cockaines, Bradburns, and Boothby's, successively possessors of the manors. Sir Thomas Cockaine and other natives, founded a Free Grammar School, in the reign of Elizabeth, for children of the town and neighbourhood, and also a second for the poorer class of children of both sexes. Here are also a chapel and a neat row of alms-houses, founded in 1800 by a native named Cooper, who made a fortune in London, for six poor men and women, and several other hospitals for decayed house-keepers, including one for the maintenance of four clergymen's widows. A very considerable trade is carried on here in cheese and malt, many horses and cattle are sold at its fairs. Much lace is made here, and a great many persons are employed in the iron and cotton factories in the neighbourhood. The romantic and beautiful glen of Dovedale is within a short distance. This town is one of the polling places for the southern division of the county.

Market, Saturday.—Mail arrives 11 A.M., departs 2¾ P.M.—Fairs, first Tuesday in January, and Feb. 13, for horses and horned cattle, April 3, May 21, and July 5, for horses, horned cattle, and wool. August 16, October 20, and November 29, for horses, and horned cattle; the fairs for horses begin two or three days before the fair-day.—Inns, Blackmoor's Head and Green Man.—Bankers, Arkwright and Co.; drawn on Smith, Payne, and Co.

[A] ASHBURNHAM is in the hundred of Foxearle, and rape of Hastings. This village gives the name and title of Earl to the representatives of the ancient family of Ashburnham, who possessed this manor before the conquest. The shirt and white silk drawers in which Charles I. was executed,Bequests of Charles I. made on the scaffold.on the 30th of January, 1649, and also the watch which he gave to Mr. John Ashburnham, on the scaffold, are still preserved in the church, having been bequeathed by one of his descendants to the clerk of this parish for ever, and are exhibited as great curiosities.

[B] ASHBURTON is situated in a valley encompassed by hills; it is about a mile from the river Dart, and consists principally of one long street, through which runs the high road from London to Plymouth. The houses are neat, and most of them covered with slate, of which there is abundance in the vicinity. The manor belonged to the crown in the reign of James I., but it has since passed through various private hands. The town, which is governed by a portreeve, chosen at the court leet and baron of the manor, is a borough by prescription, (that is to say, a custom continued until it has the force of law;) and was constituted one of the four stannaryOne of the four stannary towns of the county.towns of Devon, by a charter of Edward I., in the twenty-sixth year of whose reign it sent two members to Parliament, but only returned members once subsequently until 1640, in which year its privilege was restored: by the late reform bill, it now returns but one member; the electors on the old constituency were 101, and £10 householders 342. The portreeve is the returning-officer. The borough comprises the parish of Ashburton.

Market, Saturday.—Fairs, first Thursday in March; first Thursday in June; August 10; November 11, for horned cattle.—Inns, London and Golden Lion.—Mailarrives 5 P.M., departs 9¾ A.M.

[C] ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH is situated in a fertile valley on the borders of Derbyshire, through which runs the small river Gilwiskaw. Its distinctive appellation is derived from the ancient family of the Zouches, who came into possession of the manor in the reign of Henry III. It afterwardsAn ancient family gave their name to the town.devolved to the crown, by which it was granted to the noble family of Hastings, in right of whom the Marquis of that title still possesses it. The town is chiefly comprised in one street, from which branches several smaller ones. The church is a handsome ancient edifice, built of stone, consisting of a nave and two aisles, separated by four lofty arches, springing from fluted pillars. Here are also places of worship for the Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists, Presbyterians, and others. A free grammar school was founded in this town by Henry Earl of Huntingdon, in 1567; and another free school for 26 boys, by Isaac Dawson, in 1669. The manufactures established here are chiefly those of cotton and woollen stockings, and hats. There is also a good trade in malt, and the fairs are celebrated for the sale of fine horses and cattle. The mansion at Ashby wasA noble mansion constructed out of the ruins of Ashby Castle.remarkable for its magnitude and strength, and continued for 200 years the residence of the family of Sir William Hastings, knt., a particular favourite of Edward IV., who was elevated by that monarch to several offices of high trust and dignity. It stood on a rising ground, at the south end of the town, and was composed of brick and stone from the ruins of Ashby Castle.

Market, Saturday.—Fairs, Shrove-Monday, Easter Tuesday, Whit-Tuesday, last Monday in September, November 10, for horses, cows, and sheep.—Bankers, Fishers and Co.; draw upon Hoare, Barnet, and Co.—Mailarrives 10.30 morning; departs 4.0 afternoon.—Inns, Queen's Head, and White Hart.

[A] ASHBY PUERORUM. In the year 1804, a Roman sepulchre was discovered near this place, by a labourer who was cutting a ditch. It consisted of a stone chest, which laid 3 feet below the surface of the earth; the lid fitted nearly to the sides, hanging a little over the edge, so that when it was removed; no dirt of any kind was found to have gained admittance during a period of nearly two thousand years. The chest was formed of free stone, of a kind found in abundance on Lincoln Heath. The urn was of strong glassA very ancient urn of green glass found here.well manufactured, and of a greenish colour. The glass was as perfect and the surface as smooth as if just taken out of the fire. This receptacle of the ashes was nearly filled with small pieces of bone, many of which, from the effect of ignition, were white throughout the whole substance. Among the fragments was discovered a small lacrymatory, which had been broken, from the curiosity of the person who discovered it, to ascertain whether it contained any thing of value.

[B] ASHBY ST. LEDGER is situated near a rivulet that flows into the river Nen. The additional name of St. Ledger is borrowed from the patron saint to whom the church is dedicated. This structure consists of a nave and aisles, with a tower and spire. At the upper end of the north aisle are still remaining the steps which led to the rude loft between the chancel and the nave. Here are three piscinas for holy water. Several ancient monumental inscriptions may be seen in the chancel. On an altar tomb within the communion rails, are the recumbent figures of a man and woman, with an inscription in black letter, commemorative ofAn ancient monument of the Catesby family.William Catesby and Margaret his wife, bearing date 1493. Catesby was one of the three families who ruled the nation under Richard's usurpation, and constituted the triumvirate which is alluded to in the old distich:—

The rat, and the cat, and Lovel the dog,Do govern all England under the hog.

The rat was Richard Ratcliff, the cat William Catesby, the dog Lord Lovel, and the hog for Richard, it being then the regal crest. William Catesby became a distinguished character; he was made esquire of the King's body; Chancellor of the Marshes for life; and one of the Chamberlains of the Exchequer. Being taken prisoner at the battle of Bosworth field,Catesby taken prisoner at Bosworth field.while fighting by his patron's side, he was conducted to Leicester, and beheaded as a traitor. At the eastern end of both aisles, are two places, formerly appropriated as places of sepulture for the two great Lords of Ashby. One of these belonged to the Catesby family; but most of the inscriptions are effaced. The manorial house of Ashby is a good old family mansion, occupied by the widow of the late John Ashby, Esq. A small room in the detached offices belonging to the house is still shown as having been the council-chamber, where the gunpowder-plot conspiratorsThe gunpowder plot conspirators met here.held their deliberations. Robert Catesby, one of the descendants of the family, was at the head of this conspiracy, for which he was tried, condemned, and executed; and his head, together with that of his father-in-law, Thomas Percie, who was involved in his guilt, were fixed on the top of the Parliament-house.

[A] ASHCOMBE is a parish in the hundred of Exminster. Here is a mansion of Lord Arundel's, situated in a large amphitheatre of hills, richly wooded at their base, and at their summit often studded with herds of sheep or deer. The only entrance to this romantic dale is from the north, by a road, which though perfectly safe, falls precipitately down a narrow ridge of one of the hills.

[B] ASHENDEN. This manor has been from time immemorial in the Grenville family. John Bucktot, a priest, gave the manor of Little Pollicott, to Lincoln College, in Oxford, about 1479; and what renders it particularly remarkable, is the circumstance of the manor house being usedA retiring place for collegians in the time of the plague.as a retiring place for the members of the college at the time of the plague. In Ashenden Church, is an ancient figure of a crusader, under an arch, rudely ornamented with foliage; which according to tradition, is the tomb of John Bucktot; this appears however to be erroneous, as it is evidently the tomb of a layman, and from the chevron on the shield, one of the Stafford family, anciently lords of Great Pollicott.

[C] ASHFIELD. This obscure village gave birth to the celebrated Lord Chancellor Thurlow, and his brother, the late Bishop of Durham; theyThe birth-place of Lord Chancellor Thurlow.were the sons of the vicar, under whose auspices they were educated. On leaving the university, the former entered himself of the Inner Temple, but did not distinguish himself at the bar, until his abilities were employed upon the Douglas case; after which he became successively Solicitor-General, Attorney-General, and Lord High Chancellor. He was elevated to the peerage by the title of Baron Thurlow, of Ashfield. In 1786, he was made Teller of the Exchequer, and created Baron Thurlow, of Thurlow: he retired in 1793, and died at Brighton in 1806. He was succeeded in the peerage by his nephew, the son of his brother, the Bishop of Durham. He was never married, but he left three illegitimate daughters, to two of whom he bequeathed large property; the other having offended him by an imprudent marriage, he left her only a small annuity.

[D] ASHFORD. This village is frequently called Ashford in the water, from the lowness of its situation. It is seated on the banks of the river Wye. The only remains of the residence of the Plantagenets of Woodstock (who had a castle here) is a moat, half filled with rubbish. Sir William Cavendish, the favourite of Cardinal Wolsey, purchased this estate of the Earl of Westmoreland; and the Duke of Devonshire, a descendant of that family, still continues the proprietor. The works in thisExtensive works for sawing and polishing marble.village for sawing and polishing marble, were the first ever established in England. They were originally constructed by Mr. Henry Watson, of Bakewell, about 80 years since, but though he obtained a patent, to secure the gain arising from this invention, the advantages were unequal to his expectations. Mr. John Platt, architect, of Rotherham, in Yorkshire, rented the quarries of black and grey marble, the only ones of the kind now worked in Derbyshire. The sweeping mill, as it is called, from its circular motion, will level a floor of eighty superficial feet of marble slabs at one time.

[A] ASHFORD is situated about twelve miles from the sea, on an eminence rising from the northern bank of the small river Stour, and on the high road between Hythe and Maidstone. The town, which is a liberty of itself, originated from the ruins of Great Chart, an ancient market town,Origin of the town of Ashford.which gave name to the hundred, and was destroyed in the Danish wars. It was then called Asscheford, and, in some early documents, Estefort and Enetesford, from the ford over the river Stour; the ancient name of which was Esshe or Eschet. It is pleasantly situated near the confluence of the upper branches of the river Stour, over one of which there is a bridge. The manor received the privilege of a market so early as Edward I. The town is governed by a mayor, and possesses a court of record for the recovery of debts, not exceeding twenty marks. The church is a spacious and handsome fabric, consisting of a nave, aisles, and three chancels, with a lofty and well-proportioned tower. There are several ancient monuments, especially one of a Countess of Athol, who died in 1365, whose effigy exhibits the female costume of that age, in a very remarkable manner.The college made into a parsonage house:The ancient college, founded by Sir John Fogge owner of the manor, in the reign of Edward IV., was dissolved in that of Henry VII., and the house given to the vicar for a residence. It still exists, although latterly much modernised. Here is a Free Grammar School, founded by Sir Norton Knatchbull, in the reign of Charles I., and various minor charities. The inhabitants of this town and its vicinity are much engaged in the rearing and fattening of cattle, for the sale of which its markets and fairs are much celebrated.

MarketSaturday. A stock market held on the 1st and 3rd Tuesday in every month.—FairsMay 17, and August 2, for wool; September 9, October 12, and 24, for horses, cattle and pedlary.—Inns, George, Royal Oak, and Saracen's Head.—Bankers, G. and W. Jemmett, draw on Esdaile and Co.—Mailarrives 8.0 morning; departs 5.15 afternoon.

[B] ASHFORD. This place was originally called Exeford, from its ford over the river Exe; the village is now but of little importance. It lies in that level part of the county, formerly occupied by Hounslow Heath, theHounslow Heath.terror of the western traveller, from the numerous robberies committed on its highways. Ashford Common was selected for military reviews; it has however, for some years been inclosed, and the review ground is now near Hounslow. The chapel is a plain brick building, possessing no claims on the attention of the antiquary; it was erected in 1796 by voluntary contribution.

[C] ASHILL.—Fairs, April 9, and September 10.

[D] ASHINGDON. This place is memorable in the early periods of our history. "Nothing is more surprising," observes Gough, in his Additions to Camden, "than the errors all antiquaries have hitherto lain under with respect to the scene of the battle between Edmund Ironside and theThe site of an engagement between Edm. Ironside and the Danes.Danes." Though they had the authority of Mr. Camden against them, they have caried it quite across the county to the northern extremity and as far from the sea as possible, in defiance of every circumstance that could fix it there. In a marsh in Woodham Mortimer parish, on the river Burnham or Crouch, are twenty-four barrows grouped in pairs, and most of them surrounded by a ditch, supposed to be the burial places of the Danes, who probably landed at Bradwell, a village near the mouth of the Blackwater River, fourteen miles distant.

[A] ASHLEY, was formerly distinguished by a fair and market, it is now remarkable only for a large mansion, which was once the seat of the Georges. The church, an ancient building, with a square embattled tower, is principally interesting for its arches; some of which are round, and others pointed, resting on slender clustered pillars, with massy capitals of foliage. The font is large, round, and very rude in its workmanship.

[B] ASHOVER. This village is of great antiquity, being mentioned in the Doomsday Book, as having a church and a priest. In the church is an ancient font, supposed to be Saxon; the base is of stone; the lower part is of an hexagonal form; the upper part circular, surrounded with twenty figures, in devotional attitudes, embossed in lead, in ornamental niches. There are also some ancient monuments of the Babington family, who were for a long time seated at Dithicke, a chapelry in this parish. Anthony Babington was executed for high treason in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, having engaged in a conspiracy to destroy that princess.A singular rocking stone, formerly an idol.On the declivity of a hill on Ashover Common is a rocking stone, called Robin Hood's Mark, which measures about twenty-six feet in circumference. From its extraordinary position, it appears not only to have been the work of art, but to have been placed with great ingenuity. About 200 yards to the north is a singularly shaped work, called the Turning-stone, nine feet high: it is supposed to have been a rock idol. Overton Hall, in this vicinity, was once the seat of Sir Joseph Banks, the President of the Royal Society.

[C] ASHRIDGE was formerly called Escrug. In very early times this village is reported to have possessed a royal palace; which, when the estate became the property of Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, son to Richard, King of the Romans, was converted into a college for Bonhommes (or monks who followed the rules of St. Augustine,) and endowed with the manors of Ashridge, Gaddesden, and Hemel Hempstead. A parliament was held here by Edward the First, in the year 1291; and, though of short continuance, it was distinguished by a spirited debate on the origin and necessary use of fines. After the dissolution, the monastery appearsA parliament held here by Edward I.to have become the seat of royalty; and Norden describes it as the place "wherein our most worthy and ever famous Queen Elizabeth lodged, as in her owne, being a more statelie house." This queen, in the 17th year of her reign, granted it to John Dudley, and John Ayscough, whoThe manor house a favourite seat of Queen Elizabeth.within the short period of a fortnight, conveyed it to Henry, Lord Cheny, whose lady sold it to Ralph Marshal, by whom it was again conveyed to Randolph Crew and others, and soon afterwards granted to Egerton, Lord Ellesmere, ancestor to the late Duke of Bridgewater; several of whose family are buried in the neighbouring church of Little Gaddesden. The old college, the greater part of which was standing in the year 1800, exhibited a fine specimen of the gothic architecture of the thirteenth century. The cloisters were particularly beautiful. The walls were painted in fresco with Scripture subjects. The late Duke of Bridgewater pulled down the whole of these buildings, the materials of which were disposed of in lots; the present earl, the dukedom being extinct, has erected a most magnificent mansion at a great expense. Ashridge Park, which contains some very fine oak and beech trees, is pleasingly varied with hill and dale. It is about five miles in circumference.

[A] ASHTON. Near this village is Ashton Hall, a seat of his Grace the Duke of Hamilton. It formerly belonged to the family of the Laurences, but came into the present family by the marriage of James, Earl of Arran, afterwards Duke of Hamilton, with Elizabeth, daughter and heir ofSeat of the Duke of Hamilton.Lord Gerrard Digby, of Bromley. The mansion is a large building, with some square embattled towers, an ancient hall, and other features of a magnificent baronial castle. It is situated in a fine park, through which flows a small rivulet, forming a narrow bay, at the western side of the grounds. The park abounds with wood, and is agreeably diversified with hill and dale, and affords, from many parts, extensive views across the river Lune to Morecambe Bay, the Irish sea, &c. The mansion has undergone considerable alteration, yet care has been taken to preserve its ancient character.

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