Chapter 9

Market, Tuesday.—Fairs, April 7, for horses, cows, and sheep; July 18, holyday; September 19, for horses, cows, and cheese; December 4, for horses and fat cattle.—Mailarrives 8.41 A.M.; departs 5.36 P.M.—Inns, Red Lion, and Three Tuns.—Bankers, W. and J.H. Chapman; draw upon Spooner and Co.

[A] ATTENBOROUGH. This village, supposed to be the ancient Attenton, lies nearly on the banks of the river Trent. Its church is large, and also well filled: it serves for Chilwell, Toueton, and part of Bramcote. This place is remarkable, for having given birth to Henry Ireton, the regicide,Birth-place of the regicide, son-in-law of Oliver Cromwell.son-in-law of Oliver Cromwell. He was the eldest son of Gervase Ireton, Esq., and brother to Sir John Ireton, Lord Mayor of London in 1658. He was a gentleman commoner of Trinity College, Oxford, in 1629, and at the age of 19 he took one degree in Arts. Wood tells us, that he had the character in that college of a stubborn and saucy fellow towards the seniors. Afterwards he went to the Middle Temple, where he became grounded in the common law. When the rebellion broke out he took up arms against the king, was a recruiter in the long parliament, and about that time married Bridget, one of the daughters of Cromwell, then only colonel of a regiment. He became first a captain, afterwards colonel, and at length commissary-general, in 1645. He is said to have been the best prayer-maker and preacher in the whole army. He drew up the famous remonstrance requiring justice to be done on their sovereign. He sat as judge on the king's trial, and was one of the committee that appointed the time and place of execution. In Cromwell's expedition to Ireland, he was appointed second in command, with the rank of major-general, and was afterwards made president of Munster; being left as deputy by Cromwell, in 1649, he died the next year of a sudden disorder at Limerick. On his death, the parliament settled a pension of £2000. per annum on his widow and children, out of the estates of the Duke of Buckingham.

[B] ATTLEBOROUGH, or ATTLEBURGH. This small market town was formerly a place of considerable consequence. During the Saxon era it was a post of strength and served as a check to the Danes in their predatory incursions. Its fortifications are said to have been conspicuous in the time of Henry II. Attleborough formerly belonged to the Mortimers; from them it passed to the Ratcliffe family, of whom it was purchased by Sir Francis Blickley, Bart., whence it came into possession of the family of Ash. A college, dedicated to the Holy Cross, was founded here in the reign of Richard II., by Sir Robert de Mortimer, for a custos and four fellows. The church, with the east end is entire; it is in the collegiate form, and consists of a large nave with aisles and a north and south transept; it contains the monuments of many persons of distinction. On a flat stone in the nave is an inscription to the memory of Captain John Gibbs, a celebrated horse racer and gamester, in the reign of Charles I.Anecdote of Captain J. Gibbs.This person having laid a wager that he would drive his carriage and four horses up and down the steepest place of the Devil's Ditch, on Newmarket Heath, succeeded in winning the bet, by making a very light chaise, with a jointed perch, and without any pole. It is worthy of remark, that the first turnpike road in the kingdom, was made at Attleborough, by an Act passed for that purpose in 1707.

Market, Thursday.—Fairs, Thursday before Easter; Thursday after Holy Trinity; August 15, for cattle and Toys.—Mailarrives 7.27 A.M.; departs 6.38 P.M.

[A] ST. ANDREWS, AUCKLAND. This place is celebrated for the church having been made collegiate by Bishop Beck, although it is probable there was some foundation here before the time of that prelate. The edifice is situated on a rising ground, in a valley near the banks of the river Gaunless, and has the form of a cross with a tower at the west end. In the inside is a curious wooden figure, said to be an effigy of one ofCurious effigy.the family of Polland, which represents a knight sitting cross-legged and dressed in a coat of mail, with his hands raised and his feet resting on a lion.

[B] AUDLEY END is principally celebrated for its vicinity to Audley House, which was sold by the third Earl of Suffolk, to Charles II., for £50,000., the king, however, left a great part of the sum on mortgage. The present mansion, though a large and magnificent structure, consists only of a small part of the original building, owing to its curtailment at various times. When in its perfect state, it was esteemed one of the most splendid and capacious mansions in the country; and, if not superior, was nearly equal to the palaces of Hampton Court, Nonsuch, and Richmond. At the time when it was first built, large, rather than comfortable or handsome houses were fashionable. Influenced by these sentiments, Thomas Howard, the first Earl of Suffolk, (as Walpole observes,) determined to have "an immense pile of building," and £190,000. was expended upon its erection. It is said that, when the house was finished, King James was invited to see it. Having surveyed the structure withAnecdote of James I.great astonishment, the earl asked him "how he liked it?" "Very well," replied James, "but troth man," continued he sarcastically, "it is too much for a king, but it may do for a Lord High Treasurer." An elegant domestic chapel, constructed by the late Lord Howard, occupies the north west corner of the house. It is fitted up with clustered columns, pointed arches, and fan like tracery; and, in imitation of a cathedral, it has a nave, side-aisles and transepts. The windows are filled with painted glass, by Pickett of York, who executed them in 1771, from Biaggio Rebecca's designs.

Fair, August 5, for cheese.

[A] AUGHTON. This village is chiefly distinguished for having been the seat of an ancient and respectable family long since extinct, or dispersed.Once the seat of Sir Robert Aske.The Askes, who succeeded the family of Hai, resided here from about the year 1365, till the reign of Charles I., when the head of the family was one of the judges of that unfortunate monarch. Of this family, also, was Sir Robert Aske, a man of daring and enthusiastic courage, possessing considerable talents, who headed the insurrection called "the Pilgrimage of Grace," in the days of Henry VIII. Of the family seat, nothing remains but the site, marked by several moats.

[B] AUKBOROUGH. Dr. Stukely having discovered a Roman castrum and a vicinal road here, supposed it to be the Aquis of Ravennas. The Roman station is square, each side 300 feet; the entrance is at the north, and the west side faces the steep cliff that over-hangs the Trent. The situation of this castle at the north-west angle of Lincolnshire, renders it a kind of watch tower over Nottingham and Yorkshire, which it surveys. The camp is now called "Countess Close," and tradition speaks of a Countess of Warwick having resided here. The vallum and ditch are nearly entire; a square plat called the "Oreen," is supposed to have been appropriated for the soldiers when on duty. Within this is a round walk into a labyrinth, called Julian's Bower; these bowers are usuallyJulian's bower.found in the neighbourhood of Roman towns, and are objects of great curiosity to uninformed people. Dr. Stukeley is of opinion that they were the arena of some of their ancient games, brought into Italy from Troy, and that they derived their name from "borough," any work consisting of ramparts of earth, and not from "bower" an arbour. The views in this neighbourhood are very beautiful; the winding Trent with its rich level plains of meadow, all alive with herds of cattle; the cliff, commanding a noble view of the three rivers; the hanging woods and ornamented walks, all form a great contrast to what Lincolnshire is often represented by those who have visited only the fenny parts of this fertile county.

[C] AUST, or AUST CLIVE. Here is a celebrated ferry over the Severn into South Wales. The Proprætor, Ostorius Scapula, was accustomed to ferry his legions over near this place. In the time of Edward the Elder,Celebrated passage into South Wales.who was lying here with his army, Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, was stationed at Beachley, on the opposite bank. Llewellyn, who was required to pay homage to the English Sovereign, refused to cross the passage; but Edward immediately crossing in a boat, was seen, as he approached the shore by Llewellyn, who, overcome by the condescension, rushed into the water, and taking the monarch upon his shoulders, carried him to land, and did him homage for the principality. The Severn is here nearly two miles across.

[A] ST. AUSTELL is a considerable market town, which belongs to the north-eastern division of the county, and is one of the polling places. The petty sessions of the hundred of Powder are held here. Considerable quantities of corn and other articles are brought to the market. The town is seated on the eastern side of a hill which slopes gradually to a rivulet which runs along a narrow valley; this stream, and the inequality of the ground, have been rendered eminently useful to the manufactories of the neighbourhood. The water which has been conducted round the side of the hills, in its course impels the machinery of several stamping-mills, which have been erected on different levels. It is also employed to cleanse and separate the tin from the pounded mass. Through its vicinity to the great tin mine of Polgooth, St. Austell has within the last sixty or seventy years, considerably increased in the number of itsBlackmore Court held here.houses and inhabitants. The holding of the Blackmore Court here, which is the most considerable of the stannary courts, or courts relating to the tin works, have also contributed to augment its prosperity. The old town, or rather village, was at some little distance to the east, and its site is still marked by a few cottages; the present town is the regular thoroughfare for travellers from Plymouth to Falmouth; the streets are very narrow, and not having any pavement for foot passengers are somewhat unsafe. The only blowing houses in the county are at the east end of this town; they are three in number, and very spacious; the old smelting houses are supplied with coals, and are reverberatory; but in these blowing houses the fire is of charcoal, and ignited by air impelled through tubes by cylinders instead of bellows; this mode of fluxing the ore is considered by the workmen far preferable to the other. The inhabitants of this town, from its proximity to the sea, are principally employed in the pilchard fishery and in mining; there is however a small manufactory of serges. The parish church is a fine old fabric, consisting of three aisles; the tower and some other parts of the structure are fancifully ornamented; various carvings, monstrous heads, angels, and other figures appear on the cornices. From the repetition of the shovel, pick, hammers, and other tools, it seems probable that the miners were the principle contributors towards the expences of the building. In the year 1774, as some tinners were searching for tin in a stream work near the town, about seventeen feet under the surface of the ground, they discovered a silver cup, which is now used for wine at the Communion table, in which were several ancient pieces of gold and silver ornaments; they consisted of bracelets, rings, and buckles,Silver cup found 17ft. under ground.evidently for a person of high rank, with many of the most curious Saxon coins ever discovered at one time. All these articles fell out on moving the ground, and some were probably lost in shovelling out the rubbish; those which were picked up were dispersed about the country, and many of them broken. The celebrated Pentuan stone quarry, from which the materials of many churches and family seats have been taken, is in this parish. Polgooth mine (before mentioned) was considered the richest ever worked in England, and is situated about two miles south-west of the town. The surrounding country appears for many miles bleak, desolate, and barren, yet its bowels contain vast treasures; though, as a talented author has observed, "like the shabby mien of a miser, its aspect does not correspond with its hoards." The shafts by which the miners descend, and through which the ore is raised to the surface, are scattered over a considerable extent of sterile ground, whose dreary appearance, and the sallow countenances of the miners, concur to excite ideas of gloom, apprehension, and melancholy. The number of shafts is not less than fifty, from twenty to thirty of which are constantly in use. When a stranger is induced to descend, he is previously accoutred in a flannel shirt and trowsers, a close cap, an old hat to shelter his face from droppings, and a thick pair of shoes. A lighted candle is put into one hand, and a spare one suspended to a button of his jacket. Every part of the ordinary clothing is laid aside, and the flannel dress worn close to the skin, in order to absorb the profuse perspiration which the closeness of the mine or the labour of mounting the ladders may occasion.

Market, Friday.—Fairs, Whit Thursday, and Nov. 30, for oxen, sheep, and cloth.—Mailarrives 12.35 afternoon; departs 10.27. morning.

[A] AUSTHORPE. This township gave birth to the celebrated civil engineer John Smeaton, distinguished as the architect of Eddystone Light-house, and, as the conductor of various other important undertakings. HeBirth-place of Smeaton the architect.was the son of an attorney, who, observing that he had a strong taste for mechanics, wisely allowed him to follow the impulse of his genius, and become a mathematical instrument maker. He commenced business in that capacity, in Holborn, London, in 1750. His great undertaking—the erection of the light-house on the Eddystone rock, was accomplished in the year 1759, and it was executed in such a manner as almost to bid defiance to the power of time or accident. His death took place in his native village, September 8, 1792.—See Eddystone Light-house.

[B] AVEBURY or ABURY, is situated within the very area of a British temple, and claims the particular attention of the topographer and antiquary. The enclosure, which is formed by a wide and deep ditch, and a lofty external vallum, contains many large stones, some of which are erect, and the others lying on the ground. Southward of this place, at some distance, are other large stones, erect or prostrate; and, westward, are two others, erect. Several walls and houses of the village are constructedA British temple formed of enormous stones.with broken masses of these ponderous monuments; yet enough remains to excite curiosity and prompt research. The following is a description of this great temple, in its original state:—Immediately within the ditch, and encompassing the whole area, was a continued series of large upright stones, consisting of one hundred in number; these stones were placed at the distance of twenty-seven feet from each other, and usually measured from fifteen to seventeen feet in height, and about forty feet in circumference. Within the area of this circle, the diameter of which was about 1400 feet, were two double circles; the exterior circles were about 466 feet in diameter, and formed by thirty stones of similar dimensions equally distant from each other, as in the large enclosing circle. Of these singular stones there are but few remaining; but from the extraordinary dimension of these relics of antiquity, the traveller may judge for himself the correctness of our notice.

Mailarrives at Beckhampton Inn, (1 mile distant,) at 5.20 morning; departs 9.45 night.

[C] AVERHAM. This place is principally remarkable for a monument contained in the church erected to the memory of Sir William Sutton, once lord of the manor, on which it is quaintly recorded that he had sixteen children, and an equal number of each sex; of whom the one half

"Ushered to heaven their father, and the otherRemained behind him to attend their mother."

[A] AVINGTON. Sir Francis Burdett is lord of this manor, and patronSir Francis Burdett.of the rectory. The church, which remains nearly in its original state, exhibits a curious specimen of Saxon architecture. Within the walls it measures 75 feet by 14 feet and a half. The nave is separated from the chancel by an arch richly ornamented by a zig-zag moulding, and a great variety of grotesque heads springing from two enriched piers; the arch is formed of the segments of two circles, each having different centres. In this church there is also a very singular font, of rude workmanship, surrounded with grotesque figures, executed in bass-relief; that is to say, sculpture, the figures of which do not stand out from the ground in their full proportion.

[B] AVINGTON, anciently Abyngton, is remarkable for its beautiful park, the seat of Chandos Grenville, Duke of Buckingham, Lord LieutenantSeat of the Duke of Buckingham.of the county of Bucks. The manor was originally a royal demesne, or estate in lands, and was given by king Edgar to the monastery of St. Swithin at Winchester, in the year 961; it continued in the possession of that house until the dissolution of monasteries, when it became the property of the clerks of Mitcheldever, (a village about five miles distant,) with whom it remained until the reign of Elizabeth; and then passed to the Bruges, or Brydges family, afterwards raised to the dukedom of Chandos. Anna Maria Brudenell, the infamous Countess of Shrewsbury, married one of this family; her former husband, the Earl of Shrewsbury, died from a wound received in a duel with the Duke of Buckingham, during the fighting of which the Countess had the audacity to hold the horse of her gallant, disguised as a page. Charles the Second was frequently theA seat of one of the paramours of Charles II.guest of this notorious woman at the mansion of Avington, which thus became the scene of that licentious monarch's pleasures. The mansion, which is mostly built of brick, has been greatly improved since it came into the possession of the present proprietor. It is situated in a well planted and secluded valley, nearly environed with high downs, which from their bare and open state, form a singular though not unpleasing contrast with the scenery immediately contiguous to the house. Several of the apartments are fitted up with great elegance, and enriched by a choice collection of valuable paintings.

[C] AXBRIDGE. This town is one of the polling places for the eastern division of the county of Somerset, but the court for the election of the Knights of the Shire is at Wells. The borough sent members to parliament during the reigns of the three first Edwards, but was afterwards excused on the plea of poverty. It consists chiefly of one street, windingA borough excused on a plea of poverty.from east to west, about half a mile in length. The shambles and market are towards the east end. Although so small, it is governed by a corporation, consisting of a mayor, bailiff, and ten aldermen, and twenty-two burgesses, with a recorder, town-clerk, and other officers. Knit hose are manufactured in this town. The church, occupying an eminence, near the market-house, is a large and handsome gothic structure, in the form of a cross. The cloth of the communion table is elegantly wrought in silk, by Mrs. Abigail, who employed seven years in completing it. This lady, and several of her family, have monuments in the church.

Market, Saturday.—Fairs, Feb 23, and March 25, for cattle, sheep,cheese, and toys.—Mailarrives 2.0 afternoon; departs 11.0 morning.

[A] AXMINSTER is very irregularly built, and the houses are inelegant, but the air of the town is reckoned highly salubrious. The petty sessions of the hundred of Axminster are held here. The lower orders are mostly employed in manufacturing carpets, leather breeches, gloves, &c. TheTrade.manner of weaving carpets here is different from that pursued at most other places; the carpets being woven in the piece, and several hands employed at the same loom. The common patterns are flowers, roses, &c., though the Turkey and Persian carpets have been imitated with success. In many large pieces Roman tesselated pavements have been copied, which have produced a very rich effect. The tunnel between Charmouth and was opened in the month of January, 1832. This improvement is substantially constructed with an elliptic arch, capable of allowing two stage waggons of the largest size to pass on it, and is rather more thanA remarkable tunnel through a lofty hill.seventy yards in length. By the completion of this tunnel the longest and steepest hill between London and Exeter is avoided. A gentleman who visited the tunnel during the height of the ensuing summer, remarked the astonishing coolness which he felt within this hill's enclosed semi-cylinder; no sooner, however, had he left it, than he fainted from the difference of temperature between this subterraneous passage and that of the open air.

Market. Saturday—Fairs, St. Marks Day; April 30; Wednesday after June 24; Wednesday after Oct 10.—Mailarrives 1.20 afternoon; departs 12.51 afternoon.

[B] AYLESBURY. The Æglesbury of the Saxons, is a considerable market town, situated near the centre of the county, rising gradually on all sides in a rich and extensive tract, denominating the "Vale of Aylesbury." Drayton in his Poly-Albion has the following lines descriptive of this celebrated vale:—

Aylesbury's vale that walloweth in her wealth,And (by her wholesome air continually in health)Is lusty, firm, and fat; and holds her youthful strength.

This was originally a strong British town, which maintained its independence till the year 571, when it was reduced by the West Saxons. In the year 600, it became famous as the burial place of St. Osyth, who wasSt. Osyth.born at Quarrendon, two miles distance, and beheaded in Essex by the Pagans. Her relics were interred in this church, and are said to have performed many miracles; a religious house was founded in honour of William the Conqueror, who parcelled it out under the singular tenure:—thatSingular tenure of this manor.the tenants should find litter or straw for the king's bedchamber three times a year, if he came that way so often, and provide him with three eels in winter, and three green geese in summer. In the reign of Henry VIII., the manor was sold by Thomas Boleyn, Earl of Wilts, father of Queen Anne Boleyn, to Sir John Baldwin, whose daughter took it in marriage to Robert Pakington, who was murdered in the year 1537, on account of his zeal for the reformed religion. It continued in this family till the year 1801, when it was sold by Sir John Pakington, Bart., to the Marquis of Buckingham. How completely the manor and the town itself were in the possession of the Pakington family, will appear from the following remarkable letter preserved in the Chapel of the Rolls, among the returns of Parliament writs of the fourteenth of Queen Elizabeth:—"To all Christian people, to whom this present writing shall come: I,Remarkable Parliamentary writ.Dorothy Pakington, late wife of Sir John Pakington, lord and owner of the town of Aylesbury, send greeting. Know ye me, the said Dorothy Pakington, to have chosen, named, and appointed my trusty and well-beloved Thomas Litchfield, and George Burden, Esqrs., to be my burgesses of my said town of Aylesbury; and whatever the said Thomas and George, burgesses, shall do in the service of the Queen's Highness in the Parliament to be holden at Westminster on the 8th of May next ensuing the date hereof, I the same Dorothy Pakington do ratify and approve to be of my own act as fully and wholly as if I were witness or present there. In witness whereof, to these presents, I have set my seal, this 4th day of May, in the 14th year of the reign of my Sovereign Lady Elizabeth, by the grace of God, of England, France, and Ireland, Queen, &c." Aylesbury was made a borough town by a charter of Queen Mary, in 1554. The Reform Bill has made no alteration in the number of members. The electors are those of the old constituency, consisting of freeholders of the hundred, and house-keepers not receiving alms; the freeholders of the hundred are estimated at 838; and the ten pound householders at 314; total 1152. The limits of the borough are unaltered, and the returning officers are the constables of the borough. The town is also one of the polling places for this county, which now returns three members. The county gaol is still at Aylesbury, but the Summer Assizes were restored to Buckingham, through the exertions of Lord Cobham and the Grenville family in the year 1758. The only manufacture at Aylesbury is that of lace-making: the weekly market is a very plentiful one for provision, and much business is done here at the annual fairs.

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