ARCHWAYS AND ALCOVES
(Continued from page 49.)
Now take a piece of paper about twice the size of your pattern paper and lay your perforated pattern over it. A glance at 107 B, showing the detailed drapery pattern, will show you how best to lay your pattern to use the paper you have to advantage.
Commence by marking A—B—G and H through your perforations as well as any perforations which may be included between these; shift No. 1 on the pattern over point B, as marked through your perforation, and point 7 over point H, and mark out the perforations from 1 to 2 and 7 to 8; shift C over mark 2 and I over mark 8, and mark from C to D and I to J; shift 9 over mark J and 3 over D; mark the perforations included between 3—4—9 and 10; shift E over mark 4 and K over 10, and mark E to F and K to L; shift 5 over F and 11 over L, and mark all the points of the tail pattern. When all complete the under paper should appear as the outline of 107 B. Fold the pattern by following the lines of this illustration, the plain parts all face the front and the shaded parts all face the back of the drapery. As this is rather an intricate piece of work we have given each move in detail, and would suggest that you make a full-size plan of the pattern here illustrated to familiarize the details.
Figure108illustrates a round-top window treatment made like the foregoing, or either of these effects may be obtained by making scalloped flat valances as explained in the chapter on that subject.
The round-top flat valances may also be used in conjunction with a festoon drapery by providing apertures in the valance through which the drapery is passed, as left side of Figure109.
Fig. 112
Fig. 112
To plan aperture pelmets for any purpose we prefer to sketch out the full size of the pelmet on a blackboard and plan the points where the apertures will be. Then lightly sketch the outlines of the drapery on your board, as right side of Figure109, and measure from your chalk lines direct as follows: Take a small plumb line and allow it to fall over the deepest part of the festoon, as illustrated; attach a tape at D, festoon A, and allow it to drop down to X and around up to C; note the measurement at X and record it, and also the distance from X to C, which, in the case of a regular or equal-sided festoon, is the same; measure from B to A in the same way, recording the distance on each side of the line and also the distance from the top of the festoon to the bottom of it, in line with the plumb line. Measure festoon B in the same way, recording the distance on each side of the plumb line, and also the depth.
These festoons are cut as explained in the chapters on French festoon drapery and irregular festoon drapery, but we give the diagrams here as an additional guide. (Note Figure109Aand109B.)
The drapery illustrated in Figure110illustrates an irregular festoon drapery, made to exactly fit the arch or opening. To plan this drapery use the blackboard and full-size sketch as for last figure. After the outline is sketched in and corrected to your satisfaction, flatten the tops of the festoon by ruling lines from each end of the bottom outline, as B to C dotted line, or from the outside extremity of one bottom outline to the outside extremity of the next festoon, as A to B and C to D dotted lines.
Drop a plumb line over the deepest part of each festoon and measure the outlines as explained for Figure109, recording the measurements on the board; measure the distances of the straight dotted lines, tops of festoons on each side of the cord, and also on each side of the centre of the dotted line, recording the distances each way, and also the distances from the centre of the dotted lines to the outline of the arch.
Fig. 111
Fig. 111
When all measured, take a large sheet of pattern paper and proceed to mark out your pattern. Spread your paper on the table, the longest edge of the paper even with the side of the table next to you, and on this edge mark the measurement of the bottom line of festoon F, as recorded on your board. (See Figure110A.) In thisfestoon the plumb line crossed its centre and both sides measured equal, so, measuring each way from the centre of your line, mark the ends B and C, distant 1—4 from X, the centre of your line; erect a perpendicular line twice the length of the depth of the festoon, from dotted line to bottom line, and in line with the plum line (twice 1—1½ = 2—3). At the top of this line, or 2—3 from its base, draw another horizontal line parallel with the bottom line, and on it, each side of the perpendicular line, mark the distances recorded on your board each side of the plumb line; now, with one end of a pair of dividers or cord at X (110 A), and with B—C as radii, strike a quarter circle upward from these two points; with one end of the dividers at C and one-third of the distance from C to X as a radius strike an arc to intersect the first circle, locating C 1. Repeat this arc at B and rule from B 1 to X, C 1 to X, B 1 to B X and C 1 to C X. Add trimming allowance at the sides, as dotted lines, three inches extra at extremities and one and one-half inches in centre, and round out the bottom from C 1 to B 1, as dotted line. This gives you the shape of the pleated part of festoon F, and to this you must add the plain piece above the dotted line.
From the centre of the top line of the festoon erect a perpendicular line to correspond in length with the upright three-inch dotted line at the top of festoon F (Figure110); place one end of dividers at this point D (Figure110A), and with a little more than half the distance to C X as a radius strike an arc equal to a quarter circle. Shift the dividers to C X with the same radius and strike an arc that will intersect the first one at both extremities; repeat these with the same radius from D toward B X and from B X (as illustrated), and rule lines that will pass through both intersections of both arcs until they themselves intersect at E; now, with one point at E and B X as a radius you can sweep the same circle from B X to C X as is outlined on your board of Figure110. Festoon E and G of Figure110, and B of Figure109, are measured and laid out in the same manner; the measurements on each side of the perpendicular line corresponding with those recorded each side of the plumb line, the points locating the end of bottom lines raised one-third the distance from the end in question to the perpendicular line, and the depth of the festoon doubled on the perpendicular line to allow for pleating.
The draperies illustrated in Figures109and110are attached by rings to bent poles inside the arch, to a light frame similar to Figure100A, or may be tacked to the arch itself.
A plan employed largely by French decorators is illustrated by Figure111, combining the principles of the drapery and long curtain. The arch here illustrated and detailed in Figure111Arepresents an arch 5—0 wide by 8—0 high. Add to these dimensions half as much again to the width (2—6) and a like quantity (2—6) to the length; join the fabric up to these increased dimensions (111 B), 7—6 x 10—6, and lay it out flat on the table; from the centre of the top edge draw a line at right angles to the top and as long as the quantity added to the length (2—6), and on each side of this line mark on the top edge points equal to half the quantity added (1—3), thus locating points C—D and E; rule from C to E and E to D; add the trimming allowance, as dotted lines, and cut this piece out.
Shirr these curved lines from C to D tightly (as illustrated 111 C) and tack it in place at C—D (111 A); raise each outside edge until it just clears the floor and tack it at E, the spring of the arch; edges C to A and D to B are tacked around the curve from the centre as far as they will reach, and the surplus between B and E is distributed into pleats and the same repeated on the other side.
It is sometimes necessary to square the bottom edge if the goods are very heavy, but the bottom can usually be kept square with the pleating. To straighten the bottom tack the curtain in place temporarily and allowing it to hang naturally, insert pins all along the goods as it hangs at the floor line; trim off the surplus thus marked, and finish the bottom with a hem, cord or fringe, and trim the top with a gimp or large cord. This method is only suitable where the fabric will not be disturbed, but is very effective as a background.
Figure112, a combination of an embroidered flat valance and pair of double festooned curtains, is very effective for large spaces. The valance, made on a light frame or on buckram and tacked to the arch, the tacks covered with a gimp in harmony with the embroidery, and the curtains attached as explained for Figure104.
The method of employing a blackboard and full-sized drawings mentioned in the foregoing, with the explanation of festoon F (Figures110and110A) gives the fundamental principle of the blackboard system of drapery cutting, and the principles therein suggested may be applied to any explanation of drapery cutting which we have given by changing the scale drawings to full-sized drawings and measuring the sketch with a tape. It is not at all necessary that the outline of the festoons be made up of accurate and true lines. If the general size and shape is fairly correct you will find that the tape will hang true enough to correct any deficiency in sketching.