The art of draping is nearly as old as is the manufacture of fabrics. And artists and craftsmen of all ages have taxed their ingenuity to produce ideas unique, original, out of the ordinary—with varied success. Of the myriad of designs and treatments thus produced some of the more pleasing have stood the test of time.
One of the survivors is that generally known as “French festoon drapery,” which, by reason of its voluminous pleats and scallops, presents a showy appearance in almost any class of fabrics. To measure, plan and cut this style of drapery is one of the first problems that confronts the would-be decorator and drapery artist, and to make plain the method successfully used by the writer is the purpose of this article. Of course to the practical decorator such close discussion of details is irksome; but it is for the novice that I write. (See diagrams on opposite page.)
FigureIis an example of straight festoon drapery, the right side in skeleton to more clearly show the figures. To measure a door or window for this style it is necessary to have the extreme width of the space to be draped (5-0), the distance from the top of wood trim to floor (8-0) and the distance from the top of trim to ceiling (2-0). This is to determine the general proportion of the various parts in planning the complete treatment. Always measure with rule, getting the width measurement at the floor line and the height measurements from a ladder, and put them down as soon as taken. Don’t trust anything to memory! A three-foot folding pocket rule is a splendid all-round measure, as it comes in nine-inch sections (quarter yards) and the length gives it a decided advantage over the old-fashioned two-foot rule.
When these measurements have been secured take a piece of paper sufficiently large to lay out the dimensions of the space to a scale of say one inch to the foot, and on it sketch the style of the drapery you wish to produce.
Bear in mind that the purpose of draperies is to relieve the austerity of the straight wood lines, and to dress or furnish an otherwise bare space,notto make an ostentatious display of fabrics. Moreover, the display must be practical as well as decorative. If a window is low and a drapery carried out in proportion would be so low as to exclude the light or interfere with the vision, the usual rule must be departed from and the drapery raised to a greater height. The proper elevation our third measurement will enable us to easily determine.
Again, if we are planning a door, we must allow sufficient distance from the floor to the lowest point of the festoons for an ordinary person to pass or stand beneath without stooping. In practice it is seldom well to leave less than six feet six; but of course different designs call for different execution.
In planning for styles similar to FigureIthe general rule is to allow the lowest point of the tails to drop one half the distance to the floor and the lowest festoon one half the length of the tail. Having determined the style and size of the drapery on the plan, correct the general outline till it conforms nicely to your idea and the requirements of the space, and measure it as follows: Take a flexible rule (a six-inch celluloid pocket rule makes a splendid article for this purpose, and can be obtained from celluloid novelty manufacturers) and, making it conform to the shape of the bottom line of the festoon, note the measurement A to B (FigureI), and record it as also the line C to D; measure all the curved outlines on the plan in like manner and record the various distances.
Now measure the space covered by the pleated ends of the festoons and the distances between, as one to two, two to three, three to four, FigureI, and the distance from X, the lowest point of the line C—— D to X, the lowest point of the line A—— B, record the distance in feet and inches (two and one-half inches on the plan representing two feet six inches), for convenience in cutting later on; for the tails measure only the straight lines represented by the points E to F, G to H, E to G and I to H.
You are now ready to cut the festoons, and unless there is a likelihood of a number of festoons being needed exactly the same size, we can dispense with a pattern and cut direct from the measurement; but I would advise the novice to start on inexpensive material,like shaker or canton flannel, until he is sure of his ground.
Lay the goods on the table, face down, with the end to—and even with—the side of the table, in front of you. The pattern, if any, should run from you, and in the case of pile goods the nap should run toward you. Smooth the goods out sufficiently to transfer the complete measurements without readjusting. Take a piece of soft white crayon, and mark off on the end of the goods nearest you the distance between the points A—— B on your scale plan, using the end of the goods as your line (Figure2). If the width of the goods is not sufficient, as in this case, mark the points on the table, at equal distance from each selvage. (See A—— B, Figure2.) Now at X the centre of the line or end of goods, strike a perpendicular line X—— X at right angles to the edge of table and end of goods and as long as twice the distance from A—— B to C—— D in Figure1. This allows as much again for fulness—a safe allowance for nearly all purposes, but governed to some extent by the nature of the goods. Soft materials like art silks, silkolines and other light-weight drapery stuffs require a little more.
At the top of this perpendicular line X—— X, Figure2, draw a horizontal line parallel to the bottom line and nearly as long (or, if it is the last cut in the goods, right across the goods, leaving a straight end), and on it, with X as a centre, mark the points C—— D equidistant.
With one point of a pair of dividers at A and one-third of the distance from A to X as a radius describe a quarter circle from the line, 1—— 1 Figure2, and repeat at B, 2—— 2 Figure2. Then with point of dividers at X and A—— B as radii strike a semi-circle to bisect the two smaller circles at points E—— E, rule from these two points to X on the bottom line and also to points C and D on the top line. This gives us the general shape of the festoon, but the lines must be rounded a little at the bottom and sides and allowance left for straightening the pleated ends. (See dotted lines, Figure2.) And if, as is the case in Figure2, the width of the goods is less than the distance between the points E—— E, the corners must be pieced out of the pieces F——F.
In cutting the sides, as dotted lines Figure2, allow about three inches extra at top and bottom and hollow at centre to one and one-half inches from straight lines E—— D and E—— C, round the bottom as curved dotted line, with greatest swell at about one-third of the distance from X. This gives us our perfect festoon pattern, with three inches allowance at each side for trimming off after pleating.
To lay out the plan for the tail it is more economical to use a paper pattern; take a large piece of paper and lay on the table with the longest edge parallel with the edge of the table nearest you. From the end, as point F, which should be at the corner of the table, mark the point E the same distance as on the scale drawing you have, also the point I about half way between. With this as a basis locate the points G and H according to measurement and draw the full sized plan of tail as defined by these points, Figure3, solid lines.
Locate the point J where the lines E——F and G——H would intersect if continued (the distance J is from E governs the amount of flare in the bottom of the tail, farther meaning less flare and closer meaning more). With J as a centre, make with cord and chalk circling lines to intersect with each point of the raking edge, 1——1, 2——2, 3——3, 4——4, 5——5, and 6——6, also one at H and at E, making the line longer as you go towards the top of the tail.
With point of dividers at F and I as a radius allow a couple of inches extra for fold and strike to intersect line I at 1X, measure from 1 to 2 and using 1X as centre locate the point 2X on line 2, and locate the other intersecting points 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X and HX in like manner, always allowing the two inches extra for folding, rule from F to 1X, 1X to 2X, to 3X, to 4X, to 5X, to 6X, to HX, as dotted line indicates, and also from HX to J to locate GX on line E, and from points 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X and 6X to J, to find the points 1A, 2A, 3A, 4A, 5A and 6A on line E——E. These last should be notched out in pattern to mark goods for folding. Cut out along the raking edge F——1X, 2X, and so on, from H to G and the sweep E to GX, and the pattern is complete. As our pattern stands, Figure3, it is a left-handed pattern; mark this side (Left) and turn face down on the table and mark the other side (Right) and always remember to turn over the pattern in cutting a pair, so as to make right and left tails. To cut out lay the pattern on the face side of goods with the line HX——GX parallel with the selvage and piece out the point if necessary. When all cut and pieced out complete, spread the pattern out over it and mark the points 1X, 2X, 3X, etc., and also the notches on line E——E, 1A, 2A, 3A and so on. With the edge E——F parallel with the edge of the table in front of you catch points 2X and 2A, one in each hand, and draw toward you till fold is made at 1X——1A. Take 4A and 4X in like manner and repeat till all are folded. A glance at Figure3 Bwill explain the method. Trim the top square, and the tail is complete. To pleat up the festoon requires a little more care, but facility is easily acquired with a little practice.
Mark off on a horizontal board (see Figure4) the dimensions of the completed festoon, as indicated on the scale drawing, Figure1, points one, two, three, four, and put a large tack in each of these points as a guide, also about six inches above each point place another, which can be seen when the others are covered up with the goods. Temporarily attachcorner D of the festoon to point three and corner C at point two, allowing in each case about three inches to project above the line. The centre of the goods between these two points lay back toward the board to form the top pleat, Figure4, and the lowest point of this pleat should correspond with the top line C——D on the scale drawing, Figure1. If it is lower or higher than the drawing calls for it should be properly adjusted until it is correct. In this case, Figure1, there is a distance of three inches from bottom of pole to X on line C——D.
In adjusting be careful to keep the goods perfectly centred, or you will not get nice pleats. Now divide the remaining space from three to four and two to one into as many spaces as you intend to make pleats. In this case (the general rule) there are six. So you need six spaces, the last pleat (which is being put up, Figure4) covering two spaces. Having divided the distance, now with the left hand pinch up the goods about one-fifth of the distance from fold already made and with the right hand grasp the biased edge D——B, Figure4, and form a pleat toward the point D, adjust till the fold follows naturally around from one hand to the other without drawing, and temporarily tack it in place on the line in its space. Take the left bias edge, A——C, and make this fold follow around to the point where it should attach in the first space to the left on the line one——two. These folds should follow around from one end to the other without pulling or buckling, and will need to be helped at first by the disengaged hand until the fold is complete.
Pleat up all the remaining goods in this manner and tack each fold to the line, being sure that each fold goes around clearly without in any wise interfering with the hang of the previous one and using the same quantity of goods each time.
This will not come easily at first, but follow the method illustrated in Figure4, and practice will do the rest.
The last fold covers two spaces and completes the festoon. If you have too much fullness for the last fold go over the rest and take up a little more for pleating them. If the distance from the centre of top line to the centre of bottom line does not correspond with the distance on the plan, you will have to raise or lower the pleating until it is the same. Leave the points C——D attached and adjust each pleat separately till the desired result is obtained.
Now, if the ends are to be joined over a pole, as in Figure1, allow three-quarters of the diameter of the pole above the line and trim square. (See dotted line, Figure4.) Pin or baste pleats in place and take down and bind with a bias piece of the same goods about one and one-half inches wide, turning in the raw edges. Bind tail in same way and sew together with baseball stitch that is illustrated in Figure4B. This stitch allows the greatest flexibility, and the tail can be on top or be turned back and the festoon on top without re-sewing, as it acts as a perfect hinge.
To estimate for this style a safe allowance roughly is one yard of goods to a foot of the width of space, and three yards more fringe than goods; thus, this drapery on that basis would take five yards of goods and eight of fringe; but for a close estimate make your scale drawing first and measure from that, thus, add together the depths of the various festoons with as much again for fullness and add to this the length of the tails on their longest side. This drapery measured in this manner would require two and one-third yards for the festoons and three and five-sixths yards for the tails, or five and one-sixth yards, six inches more than the other way. This last method, of course, is absolutely safe, while the other will vary according to the depth of the festoons. The practical man will, with the rough-estimate system, usually be correct, but the novice had better measure his plan before giving a positive quantity. Another thing, too, will be noticed between the two systems, for spaces under five feet wide the yard to the foot will be scant, while for spaces over five feet, unless you try to make too many festoons, the calculation on this basis will invariably be over the mark.
When using a striped goods that would admit of any number of seams, a seventeen-foot bay window has been effectively dressed with twelve yards of goods, including in the treatment two double tails, and presented such an elaborate appearance that a disgruntled representative of a rival house offered to alter it and save enough from it to drape an eight-foot window at the back of a room.
This is mentioned only to show to what extent economy can be practiced without skimping the appearance. The eight-foot window in question, with all possible economy, required six and three-quarters yards when the order was completed.
It is a good plan for the beginner to take the rules here set forth and sketch out a number of draperies with festoons of various depths and measure. Cut and make up in some inexpensive material, such as cotton or cheap flannel, until you get the method thoroughly memorized.
A little practice will make the veriest novice master of this method, which has been evolved from practical experience, and is thus independent of the various sketches and patterns offered for sale.
If any material advantage would be gained, several other methods that are used could be given, but the foregoing will be found thoroughly practical and economical, a great item in present workroom problems.
To estimate the fringe add together the measures of the bottom line of each festoon and the length of each tail and add ten per cent. for taking up in sewing.
Fig 5
Fig 5
Fig 5B
Fig 5B
Fig 6
Fig 6
Fig 7
Fig 7
Fig 8
Fig 8
Fig 9
Fig 9
Fig 9A Fig 9BIRREGULAR FESTOON DRAPERY(SEE TEXT ON OPPOSITE PAGE.)
Fig 9A Fig 9B
IRREGULAR FESTOON DRAPERY
(SEE TEXT ON OPPOSITE PAGE.)