PLEATED VALANCES OR LAMBREQUINS

For places where a flat valance seems too stiff and severe, a number of simple, but dainty and graceful, treatments have been evolved.

One of these is the plain box pleat surmounted by a French ruffle. (See Figure16on opposite page.) The box pleat is made with various degrees of fullness and in many different ways. The usual method is to allow each pleat to be as wide as the spaces between them—as illustrated. For a valance pleated in this way allow about three feet of material to one foot of finished pleating. After the goods are hemmed the proper width for the valance, they are pleated on the table, the pleats are tacked top and bottom to keep them in place temporarily, and the folds are pressed.

The tops are pinned while still in this position and the whole is then turned face down, each pleat being tacked to the next one with stout thread (see Figure16A) to keep them from becoming disarranged in use. The top is either attached to a pole or is nailed flat to a board cornice and the top edge finished with a moulding or French ruffle. (See Figure16.)

When the pole is used sew a flat tape to the back of the heading, and sew lambrequin hooks to the tape.

The French ruffle illustrated in Figure16is made of a strip of goods about four inches wide, lined with window holland wiggin or fine canvas to give it stiffness.

Hem both edges, allowing about two and one-third times as much strip as the finished ruffle is desired; turn on its face and mark every two inches on the back on or slightly below the centre (A to B in Figure16B). Then take a needle and stout thread or twine and draw together every alternate mark and knot them securely (B to C). At the top and bottom of these alternate spaces pinch them together and knot them about one-half of an inch from the pinched point, which should be in line with the centre of the space (C to D). Then turn face side up, and a slight pulling or stretching from end to end will start the pleats into shape, when a little manipulation will make them take the desired shape, as sketch Figure16C, showing the face side; the back should appear as D to E, Figure16B.

The double box pleat is a little more decorative than the ordinary pleat, and is made as illustrated by Figure17. The top is turned forward and pressed flat, as shown in successive stages by drawings 17A, 17B and 17C. And another style by drawings 17D, 17E and 17F, which can be quite easily followed.

Figure18illustrates another style with French heading, which requires a little more care in calculation and in making. If you have determined the length and depth of the valance, divide the distance into the number of scallops you desire to make, and proceed to mark out the full size of one festoon upon your pattern paper. Use the bottom of your pleats (dotted line A——A in Figure18) as a temporary top line, and the distance from centre of pipe to centre of pipe, with about four inches extra as a temporary width, the depth the same as plan calls for, with no allowance extra.

Lay out the bottom line according to the measurement of bottom of scallop, and draw perpendicular lines at A and B to about nine or twelve inches above the line A——A in Figure18A. On these mark off the distance from bottom pleat (line A——A) to the top of heading, with as much again for fullness, and rule line E——E, which is the true top of the festoon.

Half way between E and E make a perpendicular cut, C——C, from the top to the line A——A, and from the bottom C draw a horizontal line the length of the measurement of the bottom pleat (in this case 1 foot 2 inches); divide it in the centre and erect a perpendicular line through E——E as a centre guide.

On the line E——E, with F——F as a centre, mark the points of the top of the heading, H and E in Figure18A, the distance apart that lies between X and X on your sketch (in this case, Figure18, one foot) and repeat this measurement at D——G one-third the distance from line E——E to line A——A in Figure18A.

Rule from D to H, G to E, D to C on dotted line,and G to A, as illustrated, and from A to B, fold pattern over on centre line C——C and cut out the other side. Lay pattern on the goods so as to centre the pattern of fabric nicely in the scallop, and cut out as many as required for the valance.

In order to get the pleating shirr or pleat the raking lines G to A and D to C as tightly as possible, so that H H and D D meet together just above the lower C. The pipes between the festoons are cut in a manner similar to the plain pipes in last chapter.

When the pattern is planned out and ruled off for cutting, as there explained, measure down from top point of pattern on centre line one and one-half times the distance represented between the lines H——E and D——G on Figure18A, and with point of dividers at this point (K, Figure18B), and point I, the top of pipe, as a radius, strike an arc equal in length to one and one-half times the radius. Rule from each end of the arc, J——J, toward middle K, till you meet the raking line of each side.

This gives the outline of the pipe, which is joined flat to the festoons on either side, as illustrated, Figure18C, and formed into a pipe by pinching together the two back edges at L and L.

Should the pleated pipe seem too wide at this point double pleats on each side will obviate any difficulty. The pattern included between the points J J and M on pipe pattern is the size and shape required for the little heading at C——C, Figure18, and is simply formed into a pipe inverted and sewn in place. This particular style is very effective for bedrooms, made in art ticking, denim, cretonne or taffeta, having a prominent pattern. The sketch shows a slight ripple in the bottom of the scallop, which is not sufficient to interfere with the pattern, and will be greater or less, according to the sag of the pleats, and consequent distance between H and H, Figure18.

The pipe on the outside is joined to the tail and festoon, as Figure18C, and is pleated up with the tail to the shape illustrated.

SIMPLE DRAPERY SCHEME.

Figure19is similar in style, with a pleated scallop, and is made after much the same plan. Make a scale or full-size drawing of the festoon and pipe, and measure the bottom of the festoon, as a regular or straight festoon. Lay the measurement out on your pattern paper, as per rule for straight festoon, chapter I, except that points E E are raised one-quarter the distance from A to B, instead of one-sixth, as formerly explained.

The depth for cutting is twice the depth of the finished festoon, and the top measurement and centre cut are found and determined as explained for plain scallop in Figure18A.

Mark out the full pattern as illustrated in Figure19A, measure the circumference of bottom of pipe, and lay out the distance horizontally from E to E parallel with the bottom line. From the centre of line E——E erect a perpendicular line as a centre guide, and on it mark the length of the pipe from F to G and G to H. (See dotted outline of pipe pattern in Figure19A.)

The circumference of the small part of the pipe is laid out horizontally at G, and also the upper sweep at H, as explained for pipe in Figure18B. Then rule from the extremities of dotted line G, dropping slightly to raking edge of festoon, add pleating allowance as dotted line from D to pipe, and the pattern is complete.

This festoon and pipe can be repeated indefinitely, as in Figure19A, and make a very pretty effect as a valance. If necessary stiffen the top edge with wiggin or fine canvas. The festoon is pleated up as hereafter explained for Figure22. The design can also be made with separate pipes, if so desired, by following the instructions for Figure22and using pipes instead of tails.

Another simple valance is that illustrated in Figure20. It is very easily constructed. The goods are cut to the required length to allow for top and bottom hemsand as many widths as are necessary to give double fullness across the space. Starting at one end make three or four pleats about one and one-half inches wide, and fasten them temporarily together at a distance of six or nine inches or more, according to the design of the goods and width of the space, repeat pleating, and so on to the end of the goods.

If you have correctly spaced and estimated your goods so that they come out even to the desired length, fasten the pleats permanently together about two and one-half inches down from the top and through the centre of the pleat. (See X in Figure20.) Draw down the top of each outside pleat behind and stitch them in fan shape, as shown in back view, Figure20A, the top edge turns over to the back between each bunch of pleats and is sewn flat.

Figure21is another form of lambrequin in which the corners to form the festoons are obtained by piecing out. Draw out on paper the full-size sketch of complete lambrequin, as in Figure21A, and from the pleated ends of festoons represented by the letters O, A, D and I, mark out on the sketch each festoon pattern, allowing them to overlap each other as they will, taking double the depth of the pleated parts for the depth of the festoon from dotted line to bottom (Figure21A).

After each pattern is lined out on the paper in full, take a small nail, and laying the pattern over a piece of soft wood, punch the extreme points of the outline of each part by driving the head of the nail through the paper, as also the points where any part crosses the perpendicular double lines. The paper is then cut up the double lines and around the extreme outline of the parts, as from outside bottom corner of right hand tail to N, N to I, K to H, H to D and F to C; the pattern can then be folded over on X——X, the centre line, and the left side cut out.

By laying the pattern over another paper, and with a soft pencil marking through the punched holes, as well as the corners where the perpendicular lines cut through the outline, you easily get the dimensions of the pieces to be joined on to complete the pattern.

Thus the triangular piece represented by the points A, B and C is that required to piece out the left side of festoon No. 2; D, E and F the right side of festoon No. 2; D, G and H the left side of festoon No. 3; I, J and K the right side of festoon No. 3, and I, L, M and N the balance of the tail.

After the different pieces are all joined on and the whole lined the parts are pleated up in the usual way, with the top of valance tacked flat on the board, and the ends of the pleating sewn nicely and covered with a knot of large cord which appears to support each raised part.

When cutting the goods add the trimming allowance of three inches beyond the raking sides of the patterns and trim the surplus to as small a compass as possible when pleated.

Figure22represents a style of narrow festoon drapery which presents a fairly elaborate appearance with a small quantity of goods. The tails are planned as explained in the chapter on French Festoon Drapery.

The festoons are measured from the sketch, allowing the straight lines between the heads of pipes and tails to represent the top measurement, the curved line at bottom of festoon the bottom measurement, and twice the distance between for depth and fullness.

To plan festoon A, which is a regular festoon, lay out the bottom line, Figure22A, and from its centre erect the perpendicular line X——X, and on the horizontal line at the upper end mark off the top of festoon. Find all the points of the festoon, as explained for straight festoons in the chapter on French Festoon Drapery, and round out the bottom and sides as for regular festoons.

Follow also the instructions already given in cutting the goods, keeping the perpendicular line parallel with the selvage, and in regard to nap and pattern.

To pleat up the festoon fasten the top edge to the board with temporary tacks, pinch up a pleat about one-fifth the distance from top to bottom, and with the disengaged hand form a pleat at the edge of the goods, the point of which is attached on the line of the top edge. (Points A——A, Figure22B.)

The remaining goods are equally divided and pleated in like manner into four full pleats of equal size and depth.

When all tacked in place a line is drawn from A to B on each side, the pleats pinned or basted and taken down, then the edges trimmed off square to the line and bound.

The centre pipe or tail is treated as a single tail by drawing a line through its centre to divide it for measuring. (E——F, Figure22, dotted line.)

The half is sketched out full size, as explained in Figure3, Chapter on Festoon Drapery, allowing one more return fold at back to meet the other side at centre line (Point F, Figure22), and the pattern repeated at G——H X in Figure3to make the full double tail, which is lined and joined together at the edges E——F, Figure22, and then pleated.

It is well to cut a double pattern all in one piece and pleat it so that you can tell by the folds of the pattern where seams will be permissible in the fabric.

A great many combinations such as these can be made by the exercise of a little ingenuity and patience, which will depend for their appearance on the neatness of the work and the disposition of the stripe or pattern of the fabric.

Fig 23

Fig 24

Fig 24A

Fig 25

Fig 25A

Fig 26

Fig 27

Fig 28

Fig 29

Fig 29A

Fig 30

Fig 31

Fig 32

Fig 32A Fig 32B Fig 32D

Back to Index Next