CHAPTER XXI.1866.

SIXTH JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND—A NEW JEWISH CENSUS—THE PLAGUE OF LOCUSTS—DEATH OF DR HODGKIN—ARRIVAL IN JERUSALEM.

JANUARY 26th, 1866.—Sir Moses had the satisfaction of hearing from the Foreign Office that the grievances of which the Jews of Persia complained, and which were happily now about to be removed, where unknown to the Shah. Sir A. H. Layard thus addresses him on the subject:

"Foreign Office,January 26th, 1866.

"Dear Sir,—I have much pleasure in informing you, by direction of the Earl of Clarendon, that it appears, from a report which has this day been received from Her Majesty's Minister in Persia, that in consequence of his representations with respect to your petition to the Shah, His Majesty has addressed an autograph letter to the Sipeh-salar, in which he signifies to his Prime Minister that it has come to his knowledge that his Jewish subjects suffer from oppression; and that being contrary to his wishes, the Sipeh-salar is strictly enjoined to see that the Jews are henceforward treated with justice and kindness."

When this communication became known, Sir Moses received many letters of congratulation on his success; but the appreciation of his exertions only prompted him to expedite as much as possible his preparations for his next journey to Jerusalem.

February 17th.—He attended Divine service, at eight o'clock in the morning, at the Spanish and Portuguese Synagogue. The Lord Mayor, Sir Benjamin Philips, was present, and opened the Ark containing the Sacred Scrolls of the Pentateuch, when a special prayer was offered up for a prosperousjourney for Sir Moses. In the afternoon he attended Divine service at the great Synagogue of the German Congregation, where the Chief Rabbi offered up a special prayer, which was also done in all the other Synagogues.

February 18th.—He went for a day's retirement to Smithembottom. "I find," he says, "I am gradually getting weaker, but I am indeed most grateful for the many blessings I have so long enjoyed."

February 26th.—Sir Moses left Ramsgate for Dover, where he met Mr and Mrs Sebag (now Sebag Montefiore), Dr Hodgkin, and the writer, who were to be his companions on this journey.

I shall now give the reader an account of the Mission, but for the more important facts I shall use his own words as addressed to the Board of Deputies.

On Tuesday morning, the 27th February, we left England, travellingviâParis and Marseilles to Alexandria. On arriving at this world-famous city, we repaired to the Synagogue, the Kenees Eleeyahoo, which is built on the spot where it is said the celebrated Temple of Alexandria, or Onias, once stood (modern authors maintain that the "Temple of Onias" was at a place known by the name of "Tel-el-yahood"), and there offered thanks to our Heavenly Father for having guided us safely to the shores of Egypt. On stepping into the boat at Alexandria Sir Moses hurt his foot. This necessitated a stay of a few days, which he devoted to the arrangement of all the documents which might be required for use in the Holy Land, and also to receiving information brought to him by Háhám Joseph Burla and other persons from Jerusalem. On Sunday, the 18th of March, we left Alexandria, and arrived at Jaffa the next day about 1.30P.M.On landing Sir Moses was received by his Excellency the Governor of the town, by the Judge, the Commander of the Troops, and the representatives of the various religious denominations. Numerous deputations called to congratulate him on his safe arrival. Mr Consul Moore, who came purposely to welcome him, most kindly made all the necessary arrangements for the journey to the Holy City. In order to ascertain the cause of the destitution which there prevailed, and to devise proper plans for removing it, Sir Moses caused certain statistical forms and documents to be prepared, in which returns were to be made of the number of synagogues, colleges, schools, charities, and institutions belonging to our co-religionists in the Holy Land, as well as the ages, property, occupations, and families of its inhabitants. A similar method was adopted by Sir Moses in 1838.For the purpose of having the blanks in these papers properly filled up, they were distributed amongst the representatives of the several congregations in the Holy Land, then present at Jaffa, and messengers were despatched with like papers to the authorities of distant congregations.It was Sir Moses' intention to proceed to Jerusalem after only one day's sojourn at Jaffa, but this intention was frustrated by the illness of Dr Hodgkin. "Being most reluctant to leave him," Sir Moses writes, "I remained with him up to the latest moment, until it became absolutely necessary to depart for Jerusalem, in order to arrive there in time for the Passover holidays. At this time I received descriptions of the sufferings and fearful loss of lifeoccasioned to our unfortunate brethren by the recent outbreak of the cholera. Very frequently these afflicting narratives were interrupted by the appearance upon our windows of the new and still green locusts, which we were informed were the much dreaded forerunners of another bad season. Many a morning, before sunrise, we heard the rattling of the drum to awaken the inhabitants of Jaffa to the fulfilment of their duty, each to collect a measure of locusts before daybreak, so that the threatening enemy might be destroyed, for the appearance of these locusts is the more dreaded on account of the belief that it always brings in its train some epidemic disease, the woeful consequences of which had so recently been experienced."While at Jaffa I had frequently expressed my strong desire either to remain there with my lamented friend, to take him with me to Jerusalem, or to relinquish my journey thither, and return with him to Europe; but all my friends assured me that it would be most imprudent for Dr Hodgkin to travel at that time, and that the best and only advisable course was to let him remain in the house of Mr Kyát, the British Consular Agent, under the most kind and watchful attendance of that gentleman and of his family, with whom he had been staying since our arrival at Jaffa. Advice so earnestly urged, I could not but follow. Accordingly, on Sunday, the 25th of March, having previously secured the professional services of Dr Sozzi, the physician of the Lazaretto, and left my own English servant, and likewise engaged another, to be constantly in attendance on my esteemed friend, I reluctantly quitted Jaffa for Jerusalem, after paying a farewell visit to my friend, in the full hope of being soon rejoined by him, and having for this purpose left for his convenience the Takhteerawán,[5]which the Governor of Jerusalem had kindly sent to Jaffa for my own use. This hope, however, was not destined to be realised. Unfortunately the state of health of my lamented friend had not been, previously to his departure from England, as satisfactory as his friends could have wished; and, indeed, he left home to accompany me on my journey, in the hope and belief that the voyage and change of air would prove beneficial to him. I have at least much consolation in reflecting that all that could be done was made available for the preservation of his valuable life."It has pleased the Almighty to take him from us, and that he should not again behold his loving consort and beloved relatives; he breathed his last in a land endeared to him by hallowed reminiscences. To one so guileless, so pious, so amiable in private life, so respected in his public career, and so desirous to assist with all his heart in the amelioration of the condition of the human race, death could not have had any terror."I trust I may be pardoned for this heartfelt but inadequate tribute to the memory of my late friend. His long and intimate association with me, and with my late dearly beloved wife, his companionship in our travels, and the vivid recollection of his many virtues, make me anxious to blend his name, and the record of his virtues, with the narrative of these events."On leaving Jaffa, I was escorted on my way by the dignitaries of the town, accompanied by a large number of persons, cavasses, and soldiers. They proceeded a few hours' ride, until we reached the village of Ramlah. On approaching this village, we were met by its governor with troops, and, thus escorted, entered Ramlah, and took up our abode there at the Russian Hospice, where we found all the comforts a traveller could desire. On Monday, the 26th of March, we continued our journey as far as Aboo Goosh, supposed to be the Kiryát Yĕárim of Scripture, where Abinádáb dwelt, in whose house, on the top of the hill, the Ark of the Lord had been placed, when taken from the Philistines of Beth Shémásh. The present chief, Mahommed Effendi Aboo Goosh, a man of great authority and importance,sent his brother to invite us to his house, and subsequently came himself to request the acceptance of his hospitality, a request with which I readily complied. The house of our host was situate on the summit of the hill, and the road to it was so rough and precipitous that I thought many a time my Takhteerawán would break to pieces. The fatigue, however, which I endured was amply compensated by the cordial hospitality with which I was welcomed."Many deputations from Jerusalem and Hebron had arrived during the night, and on our leaving the village of Aboo Goosh, at an early morning hour, there could be seen from the neighbouring hills a considerable number of persons directing their course towards us, and not far from the Village Colonia I had the pleasure of again meeting our excellent Consul, Mr Noel Moore, who came from Jerusalem to welcome me. I was told, as we proceeded, of the great sufferings which the people of Jerusalem had endured during the prevalence of the epidemic, and was assured in glowing words of the benefit which the people anticipated from my visit, expecting, as they did, to receive direct relief from me. This clearly proved the difficulty and delicate nature of the task that lay before me, for my principal object in visiting Jerusalem was not so much to afford pecuniary aid to the people, as to ascertain what could be done for them, so as to remove the more permanent causes of their trouble."Every moment brought new comers, until a few hours' journey from the Holy City, the road and the adjacent hills became covered with a concourse of people of all the different denominations. His Highness, Izzet Pasha, the Governor of Jerusalem, sent forty horsemen and cavasses, headed by their officer. My old friend, Akhmed Agha Dizdar, formerly the Governor of Jerusalem under Mohammad Ali, also came with his grandson and a number of his followers, the Rev. Haïm David Házán, the Háhám Báshi, mounted on a beautiful Arab steed, accompanied by the members of his ecclesiastical court—the spiritual heads of the German congregation—the Rev. Samuel Salant, the Rev. Meyer Auerbach, and all the members of their ecclesiastical court. I believe, I may say without exaggeration, there were to be seen all our brethren from Jerusalem who were capable of leaving the city, headed by the representatives of their synagogues, colleges, and schools, all hailing my approach with the exclamation,[6]'Bárookh Hábá,' 'Blessed be he who cometh.' By the roadside stood hundreds of children, singing Hebrew hymns, which had been specially composed for the occasion, and in which were recited the sufferings of Zion, and the hope in Israel's future. I particularly noticed forty boys from the Simon Edlen von Lämels school, whose healthy and neat appearance, and beautifully harmonious voices, added greatly to the impressiveness of a scene not easily to be forgotten. In truth, what I then beheld, not without deep emotion, firmly convinced me that a sincere interest in the welfare of the Holy Land does not, and will not fail to arouse in the hearts of its inhabitants an enthusiastic acknowledgment."We alighted for a short time to recite the customary prayers at the site where the pilgrim or traveller first obtains a glimpse of the Holy City, and afterwards proceeded to tents prepared for our reception by the Háhám Báshi. Here refreshments were provided, and congratulatory hymns chanted, but I would not tarry, being anxious without delay to enter within the walls of Jerusalem; and again we were met by crowds of persons crossing from the Hebron road, who joined in procession towards the Jaffa Gate. On our arrival at the gate, we halted to listen to the prayer of one of the chief officers of the synagogue, in which he invoked God's blessing on the messengerfrom a distant land, a prayer to which the vast concourse of persons responded with a heart-stirring 'Amen!'"My first duty on entering Jerusalem was to repair to the synagogue 'Kenees Istambooli,' there to render thanks to my Heavenly Father for having permitted me to see Jerusalem this the sixth time; then after prayers and thanksgiving from all present, we proceeded, amid shouts of joy from the people, to the estate known as 'Kérém Moshe Vӗ Yӗhoodit' situate on the Hill of Gichon."I had previously made known my willingness to receive communications from every individual desirous of addressing me, either on his own behalf or on that of the people in general. I had also appointed stated times for the reception of all who might wish to address me personally, and every available moment was employed in collecting from all sources information that might be useful."A guard of honour from the Governor, as well as the cavasses of the English Consul and of the Háhám Báshi, were stationed day and night around our dwelling."The first day of our arrival was devoted to the distribution of the remittances, which had been entrusted to me by several friends of Jerusalem, with a special request to dispense the same to the poor."I also despatched letters and messages to persons who might be able to furnish useful information, and thus amidst a numerous assembly of visitors joining in the evening prayers, the first day's visit to Jerusalem terminated."

For the purpose of having the blanks in these papers properly filled up, they were distributed amongst the representatives of the several congregations in the Holy Land, then present at Jaffa, and messengers were despatched with like papers to the authorities of distant congregations.

It was Sir Moses' intention to proceed to Jerusalem after only one day's sojourn at Jaffa, but this intention was frustrated by the illness of Dr Hodgkin. "Being most reluctant to leave him," Sir Moses writes, "I remained with him up to the latest moment, until it became absolutely necessary to depart for Jerusalem, in order to arrive there in time for the Passover holidays. At this time I received descriptions of the sufferings and fearful loss of lifeoccasioned to our unfortunate brethren by the recent outbreak of the cholera. Very frequently these afflicting narratives were interrupted by the appearance upon our windows of the new and still green locusts, which we were informed were the much dreaded forerunners of another bad season. Many a morning, before sunrise, we heard the rattling of the drum to awaken the inhabitants of Jaffa to the fulfilment of their duty, each to collect a measure of locusts before daybreak, so that the threatening enemy might be destroyed, for the appearance of these locusts is the more dreaded on account of the belief that it always brings in its train some epidemic disease, the woeful consequences of which had so recently been experienced.

"While at Jaffa I had frequently expressed my strong desire either to remain there with my lamented friend, to take him with me to Jerusalem, or to relinquish my journey thither, and return with him to Europe; but all my friends assured me that it would be most imprudent for Dr Hodgkin to travel at that time, and that the best and only advisable course was to let him remain in the house of Mr Kyát, the British Consular Agent, under the most kind and watchful attendance of that gentleman and of his family, with whom he had been staying since our arrival at Jaffa. Advice so earnestly urged, I could not but follow. Accordingly, on Sunday, the 25th of March, having previously secured the professional services of Dr Sozzi, the physician of the Lazaretto, and left my own English servant, and likewise engaged another, to be constantly in attendance on my esteemed friend, I reluctantly quitted Jaffa for Jerusalem, after paying a farewell visit to my friend, in the full hope of being soon rejoined by him, and having for this purpose left for his convenience the Takhteerawán,[5]which the Governor of Jerusalem had kindly sent to Jaffa for my own use. This hope, however, was not destined to be realised. Unfortunately the state of health of my lamented friend had not been, previously to his departure from England, as satisfactory as his friends could have wished; and, indeed, he left home to accompany me on my journey, in the hope and belief that the voyage and change of air would prove beneficial to him. I have at least much consolation in reflecting that all that could be done was made available for the preservation of his valuable life.

"It has pleased the Almighty to take him from us, and that he should not again behold his loving consort and beloved relatives; he breathed his last in a land endeared to him by hallowed reminiscences. To one so guileless, so pious, so amiable in private life, so respected in his public career, and so desirous to assist with all his heart in the amelioration of the condition of the human race, death could not have had any terror.

"I trust I may be pardoned for this heartfelt but inadequate tribute to the memory of my late friend. His long and intimate association with me, and with my late dearly beloved wife, his companionship in our travels, and the vivid recollection of his many virtues, make me anxious to blend his name, and the record of his virtues, with the narrative of these events.

"On leaving Jaffa, I was escorted on my way by the dignitaries of the town, accompanied by a large number of persons, cavasses, and soldiers. They proceeded a few hours' ride, until we reached the village of Ramlah. On approaching this village, we were met by its governor with troops, and, thus escorted, entered Ramlah, and took up our abode there at the Russian Hospice, where we found all the comforts a traveller could desire. On Monday, the 26th of March, we continued our journey as far as Aboo Goosh, supposed to be the Kiryát Yĕárim of Scripture, where Abinádáb dwelt, in whose house, on the top of the hill, the Ark of the Lord had been placed, when taken from the Philistines of Beth Shémásh. The present chief, Mahommed Effendi Aboo Goosh, a man of great authority and importance,sent his brother to invite us to his house, and subsequently came himself to request the acceptance of his hospitality, a request with which I readily complied. The house of our host was situate on the summit of the hill, and the road to it was so rough and precipitous that I thought many a time my Takhteerawán would break to pieces. The fatigue, however, which I endured was amply compensated by the cordial hospitality with which I was welcomed.

"Many deputations from Jerusalem and Hebron had arrived during the night, and on our leaving the village of Aboo Goosh, at an early morning hour, there could be seen from the neighbouring hills a considerable number of persons directing their course towards us, and not far from the Village Colonia I had the pleasure of again meeting our excellent Consul, Mr Noel Moore, who came from Jerusalem to welcome me. I was told, as we proceeded, of the great sufferings which the people of Jerusalem had endured during the prevalence of the epidemic, and was assured in glowing words of the benefit which the people anticipated from my visit, expecting, as they did, to receive direct relief from me. This clearly proved the difficulty and delicate nature of the task that lay before me, for my principal object in visiting Jerusalem was not so much to afford pecuniary aid to the people, as to ascertain what could be done for them, so as to remove the more permanent causes of their trouble.

"Every moment brought new comers, until a few hours' journey from the Holy City, the road and the adjacent hills became covered with a concourse of people of all the different denominations. His Highness, Izzet Pasha, the Governor of Jerusalem, sent forty horsemen and cavasses, headed by their officer. My old friend, Akhmed Agha Dizdar, formerly the Governor of Jerusalem under Mohammad Ali, also came with his grandson and a number of his followers, the Rev. Haïm David Házán, the Háhám Báshi, mounted on a beautiful Arab steed, accompanied by the members of his ecclesiastical court—the spiritual heads of the German congregation—the Rev. Samuel Salant, the Rev. Meyer Auerbach, and all the members of their ecclesiastical court. I believe, I may say without exaggeration, there were to be seen all our brethren from Jerusalem who were capable of leaving the city, headed by the representatives of their synagogues, colleges, and schools, all hailing my approach with the exclamation,[6]'Bárookh Hábá,' 'Blessed be he who cometh.' By the roadside stood hundreds of children, singing Hebrew hymns, which had been specially composed for the occasion, and in which were recited the sufferings of Zion, and the hope in Israel's future. I particularly noticed forty boys from the Simon Edlen von Lämels school, whose healthy and neat appearance, and beautifully harmonious voices, added greatly to the impressiveness of a scene not easily to be forgotten. In truth, what I then beheld, not without deep emotion, firmly convinced me that a sincere interest in the welfare of the Holy Land does not, and will not fail to arouse in the hearts of its inhabitants an enthusiastic acknowledgment.

"We alighted for a short time to recite the customary prayers at the site where the pilgrim or traveller first obtains a glimpse of the Holy City, and afterwards proceeded to tents prepared for our reception by the Háhám Báshi. Here refreshments were provided, and congratulatory hymns chanted, but I would not tarry, being anxious without delay to enter within the walls of Jerusalem; and again we were met by crowds of persons crossing from the Hebron road, who joined in procession towards the Jaffa Gate. On our arrival at the gate, we halted to listen to the prayer of one of the chief officers of the synagogue, in which he invoked God's blessing on the messengerfrom a distant land, a prayer to which the vast concourse of persons responded with a heart-stirring 'Amen!'

"My first duty on entering Jerusalem was to repair to the synagogue 'Kenees Istambooli,' there to render thanks to my Heavenly Father for having permitted me to see Jerusalem this the sixth time; then after prayers and thanksgiving from all present, we proceeded, amid shouts of joy from the people, to the estate known as 'Kérém Moshe Vӗ Yӗhoodit' situate on the Hill of Gichon.

"I had previously made known my willingness to receive communications from every individual desirous of addressing me, either on his own behalf or on that of the people in general. I had also appointed stated times for the reception of all who might wish to address me personally, and every available moment was employed in collecting from all sources information that might be useful.

"A guard of honour from the Governor, as well as the cavasses of the English Consul and of the Háhám Báshi, were stationed day and night around our dwelling.

"The first day of our arrival was devoted to the distribution of the remittances, which had been entrusted to me by several friends of Jerusalem, with a special request to dispense the same to the poor.

"I also despatched letters and messages to persons who might be able to furnish useful information, and thus amidst a numerous assembly of visitors joining in the evening prayers, the first day's visit to Jerusalem terminated."

Footnotes[5]A Sedan chair[6]

Footnotes

[5]A Sedan chair

[6]

Back to Index Next