To the South-West, and distant thirteen miles, were two large islands, which from the remarkable shape of two patches of trees on their northern ends, we named Quoin and Clump Islands. A small patch of low land was discovered beyond them, between which and Quoin Island appeared the proper channel. That, however, lying between the islands seemed sufficiently large for the ship. Being moreover within our immediate reach, it was determined that we should proceed by it.
MACADAM RANGE.
A remarkable change here occurred in the character of the country, the hills being now composed of a white, and very compact kind of sandstone. In the cliffs the strata were very marked, dipping to the South-East at an angle of about thirty degrees with the horizon. The base and sides of these heights were thickly strewn with small fragments of sandstone. The appearance presented was precisely similar to that of a new road, after it had undergone the improving process invented by Mr. McAdam, in whose honour, therefore, we named this McAdam Range.
A large light-coloured kangaroo was the only living thing we saw. A short green-looking grass was thinly sprinkled over the country, imparting a freshness to it, which, in contrast with the aridity that had of late surrounded us, was quite delightful.
Crossing the flat on returning to the boat, I was much struck by one particular spot on the border of a creek. I came suddenly upon a number of flat stones placed in rows, one upon the other. Though altogether covering about ten yards of ground, there was no appearance of any shape in their arrangement. I am still puzzled, to determine whether they were merely the results of childish amusement, or had performed their part in some magical incantation or religious ceremony of the natives. I am the more inclined to think it was the latter, as there was a native grave near, covered with the same kind of flat stones, to the height of about three feet. We had not before observed anything like it, neither did we afterwards. Several flights of large curlews were seen passing over the boat, and resting on the flats in its neighbourhood. Whilst endeavouring to procure some of them, I was placed in a sufficiently awkward position, running the risk of becoming myself a fresh meal instead of procuring one.
NARROW ESCAPE FROM AN ALLIGATOR.
I had stripped to swim across a creek, and with gun in hand was stealthily crawling to the outer edge of the flat where my intended victims were, when an alligator rose close by, bringing his unpleasant countenance much nearer than was agreeable. My gun was charged with shot, and the primitive state of nudity to which I had just reduced myself, precluded the possibility of my having a second load. To fire therefore was useless, and to retreat difficult, for I had wandered from the boat some distance across the bank, on which the water was fast rising. Thought, there was no time for, and before my companions could have reached me, the tide would have flooded the place sufficiently to enable the alligator to attack me at a disadvantage. My only chance of escaping the monster was to hasten back to the boat, and to cross the last creek before the alligator, who appeared fully aware of my intentions. It was now, therefore, a mere matter of speed between us, and the race began. I started off with the utmost rapidity, the alligator keeping pace with me in the water. After a sharp and anxious race, I reached the last creek, which was now much swollen; while the difficulty of crossing was aggravated by my desire to save my gun. Plunging in I reached the opposite shore just in time to see the huge jaws of the alligator extended close above the spot where I had quitted the water. My deliverance was providential, and I could not refrain from shuddering as I sat gaining breath upon the bank after my escape, and watching the disappointed alligator lurking about as if still in hopes of making his supper upon me. Waiting till the monster came close, I took a deliberate aim at his eye, which had only the effect of frightening him a little.
The wind, which was light, blew from the North-East from sunset last evening until noon, being the first land-wind we had yet experienced. The temperature remained nearly the same as at Port Patterson, the maximum being here 86, and the minimum 81.
October 13.
We got on board about noon, and the next day Mr. Fitzmaurice returned. He had found Table Hill to be a perfect natural fortress, accessible only at the South-East corner by a slight break in the line of cliffs surrounding it; the large inlet terminated in a creek passing close at the southern foot of the hill, where it branched off in an east and north-east direction, and in the course of three miles, became lost at the western extremity of some low thickly-wooded plains, which extended eastward as far as the eye could reach. To the south lay McAdam Range, which declining to the eastward, was at length blended with the plain, the eye finding some difficulty in determining where the hills ended and the plain commenced.
HOPES OF DISCOVERING A RIVER.
All the soundings and other data for the chart, in the immediate neighbourhood, were collected by the 16th, when the ship was got underweigh, as soon as the tide, which here rose twenty feet, was high enough. After passing through a channel, six and seven fathoms deep, which the dry extreme of the sandbank fronting the flat, extending off McAdam Range, bearing South-South-East led through, we hauled over to the westward for a swash way in the sands, extending off the north-west end of Clump Island. In crossing the inlet, running under the south end of McAdam Range, we found as much as ten fathoms, a depth that led to the hope of its being of great importance, perhaps indeed the mouth of a river. Passing between Clump and Quoin Islands, we anchored midway between the latter and Driftwood Island, a proceeding which the approach of high-water rendered necessary, as from the great fall of the tide we were obliged at that time to have at least seven fathoms. We were now surrounded on all sides by flat shores, and from the masthead, I could trace the low land forming the western side of the principal channel. The high land south of McAdam Range, was found to terminate in a remarkable peak, which in the certainty of our search proving successful, we named River Peak. It was almost blended in one with a range beyond, yet the fact of the distance which really existed between them, did not escape our anxious observation; and it was indeed in the different shade of these two ranges, one being less distinct than the other, that we found ample confirmation of our hopes.
PREPARATIONS FOR EXPLORING.
It was soon arranged that Captain Wickham and myself, should at once dispel all doubts, and that next morning, Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys should start to explore the river-like opening, under the south end of McAdam Range, to which we have above alluded.
DISCOVERY OF THE VICTORIA.
Our preparations were rapidly made, a few days provisions were stowed away in the boat, and as the western sky glowed red in the expiring light of day, the gig was running before a north-west breeze, for the chasm in the distant high land, bearing South 20 degrees East, twelve miles from the ship. As we advanced, the separations in the range became more marked and distinct, as long as the light served us, but presently darkness wrapped all in impenetrable mystery. Still we ran on keeping close to the eastern low land, and just as we found that the course we held no longer appeared to follow the direction of the channel, out burst the moon above the hills in all its glory, shedding a silvery stream of light upon the water, and revealing to our anxious eyes the long looked-for river, rippling and swelling, as it forced its way between high rocky ranges. Under any circumstances the discovery would have been delightful, but the time, the previous darkness, the moon rising and spreading the whole before us like a panorama, made the scene so unusually exciting, that I forbear any attempt to describe the mingled emotions of that moment of triumph. As we ran in between the frowning heights, the lead gave a depth of eighteen and twenty fathoms, the velocity of the stream at the same time clearly showing how large a body of water was pouring through. "This is indeed a noble river!" burst from several lips at the same moment; "and worthy," continued I, "of being honoured with the name of her most gracious majesty the Queen:" which Captain Wickham fully concurred in, by at once bestowing upon it the name of Victoria River.
A glance at the map will show that we have not overrated its importance, or acted hastily in calling it the Victoria; and it must be admitted that as the Murray is to South-eastern Australia, so in value and importance is the great river Victoria, to the opposite side of the continent.
Pursuing our course between the rocky heights, in a south-east direction, the outline of a high peaked hill, standing between two ranges, became visible, appearing, even at that time, so remarkable as to be named Endeavour Hill.* The wind failing, we pushed into a small opening out of the stream, on the right hand, to pass the night.
(*Footnote. Afterwards found to be 690 feet, the highest in the neighbourhood.)
VIEW FROM LEADING HILL.
Anxious to trace further the course of the river, Captain Wickham and myself ascended the top of a neighbouring hill before early dawn. The view which presented itself when the day broke, was fraught with every charm of novelty. A rapid stream passing between barren rocky heights, here stealing along in calm silence, there eddying and boiling as it swept past, lay at our feet. By a sudden bend two miles east of where we stood, it was hid from our view; the ranges overlapping, however, still pointed out the further course of the Victoria. The boat lay in the mouth of a creek, which communicating with another four miles further down, formed an island on the eastern side of the river, which we called Entrance Isle.
The formation of this part was a sandstone of a reddish hue, and in a state of decomposition. A wiry grass and the never-failing eucalyptus were sparingly scattered over the face of the country, which round the entrance had a most unpromising and dreary appearance, showing at a glance its utterly sterile character.
EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER.
Taking a hasty breakfast, we pulled up the river; the tortuous nature of the first reaches, changing their directions suddenly from north to east-south-east with a depth of seventeen and twenty fathoms, produces violent eddies and whirlpools. Passing these, a splendid sheet of water lay before us, trending south-east by south, as far as the eye could reach from the boat, and more than a mile wide. In the first part of this we had a few shoal casts of the lead, but afterwards the depth was eight and ten fathoms, it being near low-water. In order to catch a glance at what was beyond, and to spell the oars, we landed at a point on the east side, from which Endeavour Hill bore West 1/2 South three miles. Here the river, by taking a slight turn more to the southward, was again lost sight of. We were sorry to perceive that it was much occupied by shoals, that showed themselves at this time of tide. The first began five miles beyond our station, commencing from abreast of a rugged ridge, on the west bank. The singular manner in which the blocks of sandstone were strewed over this height, caused it to bear a strong resemblance to old ruins. The appearance of the country had not as yet improved, though the sandstone had lost that reddish hue we had noticed in the morning, while preserving the very marked dip to the south-east.
Continuing we found the change in the direction of the river very slight, and at the end of sixteen miles it suddenly turned off to the eastward, which I was sorry to find, as its diverging from its original south-easterly direction, appeared likely to disappoint our expectation that the Victoria would prove a highroad to the interior of the continent. The width had hitherto been almost two miles, but there was not sufficient depth to give us any hope of bringing the ship up thus far.
APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.
The country now began to assume a more cheerful aspect. The hills exhibited no longer the same rugged outline, and were better clothed with vegetation. From the top of one of a conical group, forming the north point of the river where it changes to the eastward, I could trace its direction but little further.
On the opposite side the hills receded, forming an amphitheatre round a level plain, through which ran a creek. On its banks, for the first time, we saw fires of the natives. Here, also for the first time, we noticed the gouty-stem trees; whilst the slope of the hill we ascended was covered with a tolerable sprinkling of grass. Kangaroos, likewise, were observed on every side springing along the turf; and a few great alligators passed up the stream, after reconnoitering our boat at the risk of a shot or two.
We were now nearly thirty miles from the ship; and a few stations were still necessary to be made to complete the survey so far. Our proceeding farther was therefore useless, especially as an exploring expedition must pass up the river; and retracing our steps we reached the ship near midnight on the 20th. The intelligence of the success of our cruise was received on board with an enthusiasm which explorers only can appreciate. Mr. Fitzmaurice had not returned, which favoured my surmises that he would find a river.
October 21.
Mr. Forsyth having collected all the necessary material for the survey near the ship, we shifted our berth this afternoon into deeper water, between the south end of Quoin Island and another small islet to the south-west, which from our operations on its south-eastern corner we called Observation Island. The weather was very remarkable in the evening--dark patches of clouds appearing in the western horizon, from which vivid lightnings flashed, and loud peals of thunder roared. The frightened stream of the sea-birds evinced how seldom nature puts on such an aspect in this place.
CAPTAIN WICKHAM ASCENDS THE VICTORIA.
Before proceeding further with the ship, it was necessary to feel our way with the boats. Whilst this was going on, Captain Wickham determined on pushing up the river in the gig to ascertain if it was fresh sufficiently near to water the ship from, when she had been taken as far up the Victoria as it was possible. He left next morning on this more than interesting trip.
FITZMAURICE RIVER.
The same afternoon Mr. Fitzmaurice returned, having, as we had suspected, discovered a river that carried his boat thirty miles in an east direction from the south end of McAdam Range. Towards the upper part it was scarcely half a mile wide; but for an Australian stream was remarkably free from bends, pursuing a straight course between rocky heights, with a depth varying from two to seven fathoms. Many shoals occurred towards the entrance, where in some places it was more than two miles wide. This river was named Fitzmaurice River after its discoverer; and the mouth or inlet of it, after his companion, Keys Inlet.
In sounding the channel, I found that when the hill Captain Wickham and myself were first on, behind Entrance Isle, was in a line with the north end of the high land at the south side of the entrance, it formed a good lead up. In consequence we named it Leading Hill, and the end of the range alluded to, Indian Hill, from our constantly seeing smoke near it. A flat of three or four fathoms at low-water extended across the channel, with River Peak bearing between North 35 East and North 64 East. I visited Indian Hill, but failed to meet with any of the natives, although I saw their fires not far off in the hills to the south-west. It is a ridge covered with blocks of sandstone, with a few trees here and there. From its summit I had an extensive view of the low land stretching away to the northward, and forming the western side of the channel. It appeared so cut up with creeks as to form a mass of islands and mud flats, which appeared from the quantity of drift timber, to be frequently overflowed, and partially so apparently at high spring tides. The farthest high land I saw bore west about twelve miles.
MEMORIAL ON INDIAN HILL.
I left here a paper in a bottle, giving an account of our proceedings, and should have been sorry to think, as Wallis did when he left a similar document on a mountain in the Strait of Magellan, that I was leaving a memorial that would remain untouched as long as the world lasts. No, I would fain hope that ere the sand of my life-glass has run out, other feet than mine will have trod these distant banks; that colonization will, ere many years have passed, have extended itself in this quarter; that cities and hamlets will have risen on the banks of the new-found river, that commerce will have directed her track thither, and that smoke may rise from Christian hearths where now alone the prowling heathen lights his fire. There is an inevitable tendency in man to create; and there is nothing which he contemplates with so much complacency as the work of his own hands. To civilize the world, to subdue the wilderness, is the proudest achievement to which he can look forward; and to share in this great work by opening new fields of enterprise, and leading, as it were, the van of civilisation, fills the heart with inexpressible delight. It is natural, therefore, as I traced the record of our visit and deposited it on Indian Hill, that I should look forward in a mood very far different from that of Wallis, to the speedy fruition of my hopes.
October 27.
The winds for the last few days had been from West-North-West to North-West, light after midnight to near noon, then moderate and sometimes fresh. The tides, as they approached the springs, increased their velocity, occasionally coming down in bores at the rate of four and five knots.
RETURN OF CAPTAIN WICKHAM.
Captain Wickham returned this morning, having discovered the river to be fresh about seventy miles above the ship. For some distance it had not decreased in size, which was very delightful news. I had been several times on the point of inquiring on this subject; but fearing an unfavourable reply, hesitated. Now my hopes were at their highest pitch, and I was quite impatient to start on an expedition up the river.
On the 29th the ship was taken under my guidance up the river, as far as the commencement of the long southerly reach. As the shoals in that part had not been sufficiently examined, we proceeded to do so in the evening, and two channels were discovered; one between a bank, dry at low-water, and a covered patch of one and a half and two fathoms, and the other between the covered bank and the east shore; the latter, although the narrower, I found to be the better. The tides set direct through it, and to keep close to the bank is a simple and sure guide. The least water is four fathoms, half a fathom more than was found in the other, the direction of which crossed the set of the tide when the bank on the west side became covered.
THE BEAGLE TAKEN UP THE VICTORIA.
Next morning we moved the ship three miles further up into a bight on the east side from which Endeavour Hill bore West 13 South two miles and a half.
The Beagle was now nearly fifty miles up the Victoria, and might have gone seven miles further, but a valley holding out a hope that we might find water by digging, and the distance at which the river was fresh being too great for us to think of completing our stock from it, we anchored abreast of it. Whilst on shore getting observations for the errors of the chronometers in the afternoon, I could not avoid soliloquising as I gazed on the ship lying surrounded by lofty rocky heights, that towered above her masts till they appeared mere sticks. The contrast forcibly presented itself between the comparative insignificance to which she was reduced by the elevation of the hills around, and the majestic appearance she was accustomed to bear when among the low lands of which we had seen so much. The sight reminded me of early years of wandering within the narrow arms of the sea in Tierra del Fuego, save and except there were not the forests of ages to hide the nakedness of the land, which even there was clothed to the water's edge.
My companion reporting the instruments in the boat broke the reverie I was indulging in; and on returning on board I found everyone busily preparing for the expedition up the river.
Exploration of the Victoria.First appearance of Sea Range.Curiosity Peak.Appearance of Country from.Whirlwind Plains.Encounter with an Alligator.His capture and description.Cross Whirlwind Plains.White and black ducks.Kangaroos.Enter hilly country.Meet the boats.Thunderstorm.Carry boats over shoals.New birds.Reach Hopeless.Progress of boats arrested.Reconnoitre the river.Prospect from View Hill.Preparation for pedestrian excursion.Leave Reach Hopeless to explore the upper part of the river.Native village.Squall.Muscle Bend.Meet Natives.Successful fishing.Party distressed.Thirsty Flat.Tortoise Reach.Singular appearance of the ranges.Effect of the great heat.One man knocked up.Approach of natives.Preparation for defence.Appearance of the natives.Move further up the river.Emu Plains.Select position for night quarters.Upward course of the Victoria.Commence return.Kangaroo shot.Wickham Heights.New Tortoise.Lucky Valley.Race was with a native.Meet his tribe.They make off.Hard day's work.Quarters for the night.Return to Reach Hopeless.
EXPLORATION OF THE VICTORIA.
The expedition, consisting of the two large boats and gig, with Captain Wickham, who was to show them the watering place, left the ship early on the morning of the 31st of October. I was to follow in one of the whaleboats, and explore the upper parts in company with Captain Wickham; and after completing the survey near the ship, I was at last fairly off to explore the Victoria with the first glimmer of light the morning following, once more to revel in scenes where all was new. How amply is the explorer repaid by such sights for all his toils! To ascend a hill and say you are the first civilized man that has ever trod on this spot; to gaze around from its summit and behold a prospect over which no European eye has ever before wandered; to descry new mountains; to dart your eager glance down unexplored valleys, and unvisited glens; to trace the course of rivers whose waters no white man's boat has ever cleaved, and which tempt you onwards into the bosom of unknown lands: these are the charms of an explorer's life.
Mr. Forsyth accompanied me. We landed nearly opposite the rugged ridge I have before mentioned, for a few angles and bearings. Here we found two native rafts of precisely the same construction as those we had previously seen on the North-west coast, formed out of nine poles. The shape the reader will remember from the sketch in that part of the work, and with the exception of only two instances, where they appeared merely temporary affairs, we have noticed no other kind of rafts in use. Wherever this great similarity in their mode of water-conveyance prevails, we may infer the natives have had communication with each other.
FIRST APPEARANCE OF SEA RANGE.
FIRST APPEARANCE OF SEA RANGE.
FIRST APPEARANCE OF SEA RANGE.
We passed the night in the end of a crooked reach, near the only rocky islet in the river, lying four miles East-South-East from the furthest point I had before attained. With the exception of a squall from north-east in the afternoon, there was scarcely any wind, and the night was cloudy with some slight showers of rain. As the mosquitoes allowed us little rest, we were glad, when the day broke, to be again moving. We now found the river take a north-east direction for eight miles, averaging in width upwards of three-quarters of a mile, and in depth at low-water two fathoms. A sudden change in the trend of the reaches brought in sight the strange appearance of the country represented in the woodcut annexed.
CURIOSITY PEAK.
The peak on the right bank we named, from the passion it assisted us in gratifying, Curiosity Peak. Landing at the foot we were not long reaching the summit, although the thermometer was 90 degrees in the shade. The river formed a remarkable feature in the landscape before us, to the north-east; and behind it rose a high table-range of hills, from five to six hundred feet in elevation. These were capped with low reddish-coloured cliffs.
WHIRLWIND PLAINS.
At their feet stretched an extensive and seemingly boundless plain in a north-east direction, whilst on the south-east side, and distant about eighteen miles from where we stood, low ranges of hills were visible. Here and there over the plains were many small whirlwinds appearing in the distance like streaks of smoke curling upwards through the air. These, though affording relief to the eye in the wide prospect that opened before us, are fraught with danger when occurring on the river; for on one occasion they nearly upset the gig, and threatened to consign its crew to a watery grave. In the present instance they gave an impulse to our invention, suggesting the propriety of designating the level tract of country before us, Whirlwind Plains. The high land rising suddenly out of it, and bounding it very abruptly on the north-west side, we named Sea Range. We could trace the river passing along at its foot in an East-North-East direction for nine miles, when it appeared to cross the plain; a large island lying midway changed its course for a short distance.
I found a strange kind of fruit growing in a hollow, near the top of Curiosity Peak; the tree was small and leafless, with the fruit hanging in bunches about the size of a damascene plum, of the colour of a peach, and containing a large stone. I afterwards had a pie made of this fruit, which proved to be by no means bad eating.
Besides the sandstone of which the peak is composed, I found a kind of slate on the north-west side. Several banks showed themselves, leaving at that time of tide scarcely a boat channel, although the river was a mile wide at high-water. A great part of the day was occupied in collecting material for the chart of this part, and we passed the night near the foot of Curiosity Peak. On the grassy flat opposite, I killed five white ibises at a shot.
At sunset, I noticed large flocks of a rather small brown pigeon, constantly flying from Whirlwind Plains to the north-west, and back again in the morning. The mosquitoes did not give us any peace again this night.
ENCOUNTER AN ALLIGATOR.
November 3.
Starting early, we had just passed all the shoals in the neighbourhood of Curiosity Peak, and entered a narrow part of the river, when the leadsman in the bows of the boat reported, "A large alligator coming down the stream, sir." Elated by the expectation of sport, we instantly grounded the boat on the right bank to keep her steady, and waited anxiously for the monster's approach. It will readily be believed, that every eye was fixed upon him as he slowly advanced, scarcely disturbing the glassy surface of the water, and quite unconscious of the fate that impended over him. At length he came abreast, and about eighty yards off, only the flat crown of his head, and the partly serrated ridge along his back, appearing in sight. It was a moment of deep excitement for us all, and everyone held his breath in suspense as I pointed my gun at the brute's head.
EFFECT OF A SHOT.
I felt confident of hitting my mark; but judging from the little effect I had produced on former occasions, scarcely dreamt of the execution my ball actually did. It happened that to-day I was in excellent practice, and had just hit a large wild dog, a long shot, making him jump high off the ground; but this beast is as tenacious of life as a cat, and instead of falling dead, he limped off and escaped. But to resume: I fired, and never heard a ball strike with more satisfaction in my life. It laid the alligator sprawling, feet uppermost. There was no time to be lost in getting him on shore; two or three strokes with the oars brought us alongside of the monster, as he floated on the surface of the stream. The business was to attach a line to one of his legs; and as we knew that he was not dead, but only stunned, this was rather a nervous operation. I noticed indeed a hesitation among the men, as to who should venture, and fearing lest our prize should escape, I seized the line and made it fast to one of his fore-legs, when we proceeded to the shore, dragging him alongside. Before reaching it, however, our friend gave signs of reviving animation, and as we could not foresee to what extent he might regain his activity, we dropped him astern, clear of the boat, fearing lest in floundering about he might stave in her broadside. In doing so, moreover, and by way of a sedative, I fired a charge of large shot at his head, the muzzle of the gun not being a yard from it; and yet the only effect produced, was a slight stupor of the intellectual faculties, evinced by a momentary state of quiescence.
THE ALLIGATOR ON SHORE.
On reaching the shore, the men jumped out to haul the alligator up on the dry land, and began to pull away vigorously. It was a comic scene to witness. They expected to have some difficulty in performing their task; but suddenly they found the rope slacken, and looking round beheld the alligator walking up after them of his own accord, faster than was pleasant. In their haste, endeavouring to keep the rope taut, one fellow tripped up; and it was for a moment a question whether he would not be snapped in two; the feeling of alarm, however, soon gave way to a sense of the ludicrous, at beholding the manner in which he gathered himself up into a ball and rolled out of the alligator's way. I thought it now high time to take decisive measures, and with another shot altered the intentions of the monster, who endeavoured to back towards the water. Perhaps if he had been further away from it, I might have been tempted to try Waterton's experiment.
It was not before he had received six balls in the head, that he consented to be killed. During the operation he exhibited something of his savoir faire, by opening his mouth, that looked like a gigantic man-trap, and suddenly shutting it with a loud snap, which made us shudder, and forcibly recalled to mind the escape I had had a few days before, from having my body embraced by such a pair of jaws.
The reader will gather a good idea of their size from the woodcut; and their power of holding will be shown in the description accompanying. The view annexed represents the moment when the alligator received the first shot on shore; the singular character of Sea Range is also shown, and the small whirlwinds I have alluded to, as having the appearance of smoke.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ALLIGATOR.
HEAD AND FEET OF ALLIGATOR.
HEAD AND FEET OF ALLIGATOR.
HEAD AND FEET OF ALLIGATOR.
Length of Alligator, 15 feet. From base of head to extreme of nose 2 feet 2 inches. Across the base of head, 2 feet. Length of lower jaw, 2 feet. Teeth in both jaws, vary in size, and are variously disposed, as will be seen above; in upper jaw on each side of maxillary bone, 18, 2 incisors. Ditto in lower jaw, 15, 2 incisors. The largest teeth are 1 1/2 inch in length. The two lower incisors are stronger and longer than the upper, and project through two holes in front part of upper jaw.
Breadth across the animal, from extreme of one fore foot, across the shoulders to the other side, 5 feet 2 inches. The fore feet have each five perfect toes; the three inner or first, have long horny nails, slightly curved; the two outer toes have no nails, nor are they webbed. The third and fourth toes are deeply webbed, allowing a wide space between them, which is apparent even in their passive state. The hind feet have four long toes; the first two are webbed as far as the first joint, and the others are strongly webbed to the apex of last joint, the last or outer toe has no nail.
From the apex of tail, a central highly notched ridge runs up about midway of it, and there splits into two branches, which pass up on each side of the spine over the back, as far as the shoulders, gradually diminishing in height to their termination.
A central ridge runs down from the nape of the neck over the spinous processes of the vertebrae (being firmly attached to them by strong ligaments) as far down as the sacrum, diminishing to its termination likewise.
KILLING AN ALLIGATOR, VICTORIA RIVER.G. Gore, del.London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.
KILLING AN ALLIGATOR, VICTORIA RIVER.G. Gore, del.London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.
KILLING AN ALLIGATOR, VICTORIA RIVER.G. Gore, del.London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.
CONTENTS OF ITS STOMACH.
All the alligator's stomach contained was about fourteen pounds of pebbles, some of them measuring four inches in diameter. We were some time skinning the monster, and after securing a little of the best part of the flesh for eating,* proceeded on our way.
(*Footnote. The writer supped off alligator steaks, and informs the reader that the meat is by no means bad, and has a white appearance like veal.)
The river, as I have already said, ran along the base of Sea Range for some distance, when it turned off across the plain in a south-east direction.
BANKS OF THE VICTORIA.
The high land quite overlooked the stream, and enhanced the picturesque effect of the trees that rose in rich green masses on the banks, which were here only about half a mile apart. The depth, however, was two fathoms, double what it had been for some distance before. We had now fairly turned our backs on Sea Range, and were crossing the plains in a south-east direction. On the part of the Victoria we had passed were a few white ducks, with black or very dark brown wings. I noticed that the bill and legs were of a very pale pink, and they had a pale yellow eye. They were evidently the same bird that I had seen at Port Essington.* They were scarce and not met with in other parts of the river. Kangaroos were numerous on the banks, as we entered the plain, and during the day were to be seen in numbers under the bushes near the water's edge. I added one to our stock of fresh provisions, which with alligator steaks and ducks, gave us a good supply to share with the other boats. We named this part of the river Long Reach, from its carrying us nine miles in a direct course, with a general width of a quarter of a mile, and a depth of two and three fathoms. The banks were well defined, in many places being a low line of cliffs six feet high, presenting to our view several feet of brown soil, resting on a compact clay. This is the general character of this extensive plain; and from the small size of the trees, chiefly white gums, that are thinly scattered over it, we may infer that it is land of recent formation. Two miles from the end of Long Reach, we passed a sandy head, where the tide rises from three to ten feet.
(*Footnote. Figured by Mr. Gould, as Tadorna radjah.)
The river now took a south by west direction, for nearly two miles, a little narrower, but three fathoms deep throughout. Towards the latter part the banks were fringed with mangroves of a small and singularly even growth, resembling a clipped garden shrubbery. Our course again changed to south-east, entering the low range of hills bounding the south-eastern side of Whirlwind Plains. It was long after dark when we reached so far. We had passed the watering boats some distance further down on their way to the ship. Our sudden meeting in the dark on the lonely river, had a singular and romantic effect. Being anxious to join the gig, we pushed on, and at midnight were surprised by a loud call from Captain Wickham, who lay beneath the shadow of a high bank. It was a strange sound, this English hail, to hear echoed in these wild hills, where only the shrill cry of the savage had been borne on the blast before!
THUNDERSTORM.
I was sorry to find, that the tide did not at present rise sufficient to admit the large boats into the fresh water, so that getting a load would have been a very long operation, had it not been for a tremendous fall of rain that followed a thunderstorm, deluging every pool, and at once affording the means of filling the casks. This storm began at South-East and drew round by east to North-West, from which quarter it blew strong for an hour. The torrents of rain lasted two hours, and cooled the air so rapidly, as in that time to reduce the thermometer from 92 to 82 degrees. This change was so sudden, that it made those who felt it shiver as if it were the depth of winter, and RUSH INTO THE RIVER WATER TO KEEP THEMSELVES WARM.
November 4.
Both boats proceeded up the river at daylight. We started from the end of Short Reach, trending East-North-East, and about four miles within the range of hills, on the South-East side of the Plains. The first reach led us a mile and a half in a South-East direction, and at the end of it a flat of large boulders extended; across this we dragged the boats easily. The river now took a turn from East-North-East to North, and at the end of a mile we came to another extensive flat, quite dry. There was a deep pool below it, with a precipitous hill, 350 feet high, on the eastern side. This we called Steep Head, and its singular dark cliffy face, frowning over the placid waters, gave an air of grandeur to the scenery. Stretched out on the face of these cliffs, we left the skin of our friend the alligator, to be taken to the ship by the watering boats when they returned.
SHOALS IN THE RIVER.
There was now heavy work before us, with the thermometer at 93 degrees in the shade: we had to drag the boats over the large flat that impeded our progress. The way was made as smooth as possible, and plenty of rollers laid, but an unlucky stone found its way through the thin plank of the gig. Captain Wickham acted as head carpenter in repairing the damage, which occupied so much time that it was dark before the boats were floated in the deep water beyond. We dined on the bank, by the light of a lantern hung on a tree. The tide at this place only rose two feet.
SCENERY ON ITS BANKS.
November 5.
Taking advantage of the cool of the morning, we moved off with the early dawn. A fine sheet of water lay before us, and everything promised well. The vegetation looked stronger and richer. Above the growth of acacias and drooping gums, that leant over the banks kissing their reflection in the limpid waters, rose on each side high broken ranges. Their heights had round summits, just beneath which, in some, could be traced a low line of cliffs, so singularly characteristic of Sea Range. The very marked dip in the strata did not extend beyond the latter, and here I could not detect any. Flights of large vampires, whistling ducks, many-coloured parakeets, and varieties of small birds, made the river quite alive, and their continued cry of alarm gave vivacity to the scene, and disturbed the stillness that had reigned there for years. Every living thing is terrified at the sight of man. This reach of the Victoria enabled Mr. Bynoe to add two new birds to his collection; one, a species of pigeon, but resembling a small quail in its habits and size; the cerae of the nose, the beak and the feet, were a pigeon's, but the flight and the manner of running along the ground, where it kept, were those of a quail. It was found in small families of eight or a dozen, very wild and scarce, and was only seen in this part of the river. The only one we were able to get, had a very long pointed crest. The colour was a light red, with a white chin and a black band across the throat; the tips of the wings were slightly bronzed. It is figured in Mr. Gould's work, from this specimen, as Geophaps plumifera.
SINGULAR BIRD.
The other bird was of a species, that at first sight appeared to be a teal. It went in small flocks, and as it got on the wing made a long shrill plaintive kind of note. The deep glossy rifle-green colour of their back, and the transparent streak of white across the wing, gave them a most beautiful appearance, as the sun's rays lit up their rich plumage in their circuitous flight round the boat. Their number did not exceed twenty, and they too were only seen on this part of the river. They were also very wary, which is singular in the inhabitants of a wilderness, almost totally unfrequented by man. We only got one specimen, by which we found that it had the head and bill of a goose. It was indeed quite a goose in miniature. Although we never before or afterwards met with this bird, it was seen at Port Essington, though of inferior plumage, some time in 1840, and a specimen was obtained, from which Mr. Gould has named it Nettapus pulchellas. The whistling duck of the Adelaide River, was also only seen on this part of the Victoria.
After proceeding north-east one mile and a half, and east two miles, we came to a pretty little islet covered with palms and acacias, and rich long grass. Numbers of large white waterlilies grew on its banks. The river was now only an eighth of a mile wide, and two fathoms deep. This still promised well. Scarcely, however, had we indulged in the hope that the Victoria might yet convey the boats many miles into the interior, when a shoal appeared.
PROGRESS OF THE BOATS ARRESTED.
Over this we got tolerably well, but at the end of two miles in an East-South-East direction from Palm Island, all hopes were at an end of proceeding farther in the boats, as for a great extent the river was impassable for them. We found there was a large sheet of water beyond, and then another dry patch. It would therefore have been useless labour to attempt dragging the boats over any more of the dry parts. Two conical-shaped hills, so much alike that we called them the Brothers, bore North by West 1/2 West one mile.
The thermometer was 101 degrees at noon in the shade. I shot some very large dark-coloured ducks in the afternoon. Kangaroos were numerous. The water was fresh soon after passing Palm Island.
That we were thus finally deterred from proceeding farther with the boats, was a source of deep mortification. Since the great flat we had experienced so much difficulty in getting over yesterday, all had gone well. Each turn in the river appeared more beautiful, and brought something new to increase our interest; and we fondly imagined that great discoveries were in store for us. But the fates had decreed otherwise, and we were compelled to pause, after having ascended in the boats from the ship above 75 miles. We named this reach, in consequence, Reach Hopeless.
November 6.
It being evidently impracticable to proceed higher up in the boats; a small party of us landed at daylight, in order to ascend a neighbouring height, and thence to trace as far as possible the upward course of the river, preparatory to a pedestrian excursion along its banks. Before sunrise we reached the summit of a narrow ridge, trending East-South-East 1/2 a mile east, from where the boats were lying: in this singular ridge I again noticed the dip to the south-east: it was composed of a variety of rocks, jasper, a greyish kind of flinty indifferent limestone, and greywacke.
SINGULAR APPEARANCE OF THE RIVER.
The view from it was very limited, the valley of the river turning short to the northward, two miles east by south of our position, to which we gave the name of Station Hill. Before I had finished my round of angles, the heat had become so great that some of our party were compelled to return to the boats, whilst myself, with two of the men, pushed on for nearly two miles in an easterly direction, along the foot of some table-topped hills, and were then gratified with another peep at the river, which had a very singular appearance, in some places nearly dry, discovering a wide bed of large pebbles: long narrow islands, whose shape attested the former rapidity of the currents, covered with reeds and acacias, and deep pools of standing water, were its most characteristic features. Several kangaroos, alarmed by our approach, hastily quitted their cool hidingplaces, presenting beautiful shots; but as the traces of natives were both recent and numerous, we thought it most prudent to reserve our fire, and shortly after, upon finding a native fire still alight, to keep the open ground as much as possible. We travelled for a long mile over a level flat of good soil, though now quite destitute of vegetation, save some beautiful specimens of the truly evergreen gumtree.
PROSPECT FROM VIEW HILL.
At length we reached the summit of View Hill, and no effervescing draught could have proved more really refreshing than the south-east breeze which greeted us there. It is separated from the ranges to the southward by a deep narrow valley. We noticed from it that the river evidently increased in size, as traced upwards, and I was very glad to find that the delight I experienced in making this discovery, was shared by my companions. We traced it east for two long miles--a deep broad and picturesque stream: beyond that limit it took a more southerly direction, apparently behind some high tableland (Table Hill) 200 feet high. Beyond, and on the eastern side of the valley of the river, rose a high peak, crowned by a remarkable block of stone, to which we gave the name of The Tower. I made a sketch of the scenery, and took a round of angles, and then we returned to the boats. On our arrival we found the thermometer had been as high as 110 degrees at one P.M. The afternoon was occupied in selecting a party of five out of the boats' crews, for a pedestrian excursion; and at night, jaded as we were, it was almost impossible to sleep, owing to the screeching noise of the vampires, and the howling of the native dogs.
PREPARATIONS FOR A PEDESTRIAN EXCURSION.
November 7.
Making slings and packing provisions for an early start to-morrow morning occupied the greater part of the day. Mr. Bynoe, as he had done yesterday, added to his valuable collection a few rare birds, and strange plants; while I took several readings of the barometer, morning and evening, for the elevation of the bed of the river: the mean gave a resulting height of thirty feet.
Our bivouac at Reach Hopeless, was under the shade of a cluster of drooping gumtrees, which secreted in their thick foliage, numbers of a bird figured by Mr. Gould as Tripidorhynchus argenticeps. These kept up a constant amusing chatter, in which we could frequently detect an exact imitation of the words Walk Up, when spoken sharply. A kangaroo Mr. Bynoe had shot, and hung on a tree, drew the attention of birds of prey, consisting of two kinds of hawks, one of a dark brown, almost black, and another a lighter shade of the same colour, resembling copper, with a great deal of white about the head; so that we were surrounded with feathered companions.
The wind as usual was East-North-East in the morning, and North-West in the evening. The thermometer ranged from 97 to 112 degrees during the day, and fell to 90 degrees at night; during which we noticed several meteors in the north and north-west falling perpendicularly.
November 8.
Our little band left the boats before daylight, the morning being agreeably cool (temperature 85 degrees). Captain Wickham had intended heading this most interesting expedition himself, but feeling indisposed, the party was eventually placed under my command, and in addition to myself, consisted of Mr. Bynoe, surgeon; Mr. Forsyth, mate; George Knox, Robert Gower, and William Willing, seamen; John Brown, and Richard Martin, marines. Besides provisions for six days, and arms, we had with us the following instruments: large sextant, small sextant, artificial horizon, chronometer, two compasses, spyglass, watch, lantern, and measuring tape.
Our route was that of yesterday to View Hill, and we reached the river a mile to the eastward by half-past seven A.M. We halted here for ten minutes to skin a kangaroo, which I had shot as we crossed the plain; a piece of good fortune that induced me to determine upon leaving a part of our provisions at the first convenient spot. We found the banks of the river thickly clothed with tall reeds, through which with some difficulty we forced our way. To the north-west the high land receded from the river, having an extensive, and apparently alluvial flat between its base and the course of the stream.
After a brief halt, we proceeded in an East 16 degrees South direction. Two miles good walking brought us to the head of a deep gully, the banks of which were covered with tall reeds; we followed its course nearly due north to the river, which it joined near the foot of the high land I have before spoken of. The bed of the stream was dry here in patches for half a mile. As none of our party had been recently accustomed to much pedestrian exercise, and we had been travelling for nearly five hours over a broken country, and in a temperature varying from 87 to 100 degrees in the shade, I thought it time to halt and dine. While dinner was being prepared, Mr. Bynoe and myself shot three brace of rare ducks, of a small light grey kind, in the pools near. I afterwards accompanied Mr. Forsyth to get some bearings from an elevation on the north side of the river.
COURSE OF THE VICTORIA.
Towards the south-east we perceived a very decided break in the hills, through which I hoped to trace the course of the Victoria, that being the direction of the centre of this vast continent: in this however we were disappointed, for the river turned short round to the north-east. The banks were so high, and so thickly covered with tall reeds, that it was only by the very green appearance of the trees about its banks that its course could be made out. The temperature at one P.M. in the sun was 127 degrees. Knowing how impossible it was to avoid being tracked by the natives, should they wish it, even upon the hardest ground, and that in the event of their doing so any buried stores would be forthwith discovered, and yet anxious to disencumber the party of any superfluous load, I directed one of the men to take the 8-pound canister of preserved meat and throw it into a thick cluster of reeds and palms, about thirty yards distant; and after taking a set of sights for longitude, recommenced our journey to half-past three P.M. in a north-east direction; passing through a lightly timbered plain, that had been evidently at no distant date exposed to the ravages of fire. At half-past four we came to a bend of the river, trending North 56 degrees East and South 22 degrees West. Passing several trees still on fire near the river, after another short halt, which the state of the atmosphere no less than the nature of the ground rendered desirable, we resumed our north-east course, but were compelled to make a considerable westerly detour, in order to clear the deep watercourses intersecting the banks at this place, and which, extending nearly to the base of the hills, rendered the fatigues and labours of the march additionally and needlessly heavy.
NATIVE VILLAGE.
Just before dark we came upon a native village, near the foot of a bare rocky hill, having a northern aspect, and lying about one mile south-west of the river. It contained thirteen huts of paper-bark, standing in a bare stony plain, and with no signs of being at this time inhabited. We found here considerable difficulty in forcing our way through the tall and thickly growing reeds which lined the bank. The next reach in the river trended North-West for about a mile, and then turned off North-North-East at the foot of a high rocky range. The next turn in the course brought us upon a yet burning native fire. Under ordinary circumstances such an indication of the near presence of natives, of whose intentions, whether hostile or otherwise, I had no means of judging, would have induced me to take up open quarters for the night, which was now closing in upon us; but the threatening aspect of the sky to the south-east led me to prefer a spot sheltered by the luxuriant foliage which here fringed the river's banks.
VIOLENT SQUALL.
The squall reached us at seven. The wind, which had been at south-east, veering to north, and the thermometer falling five degrees; it lasted for about an hour, during which time the harsh screams of the affrighted birds--the moaning of the wind--the awful roll of thunder, and the fearful brilliancy of the lightning, combined to supply all the terrible beauty which invests such scenes; especially when they surprise the startled adventurer upon his unknown path, and add their hostile influence to the unreckoned dangers that await his progress. The only means we had of preserving our only suit of clothes dry from the drenching showers of rain was by taking them off, and stuffing them into the hollow of a tree, which in the darkness of the night we could do with propriety.
Within an hour the weather had cleared up, and was as fine as before the squall. The change came just in time for me to secure a meridian altitude of Achernar, which, with a set of sights for time, completed the requisite observations. We noticed a singular meteor in the East-South-East about 8 o'clock this evening, darting perpendicularly UPWARDS: it lasted for ten seconds: between the hour mentioned and midnight, we saw a great many, passing chiefly from south-east to north-west. At nine, having set the watches for the night, we lay down to sleep, and passed a quiet night with a temperature of 85 degrees, and a north-west wind.
November 9.
We started early the following morning, after having obtained a set of bearings, and followed the bank of the river to the north-west for half a mile, then forded it and took a north-easterly direction, passing close to the foot of some hills forming the south side of the valley of the river, which at this place is scarcely a mile wide. High tableland formed the west side of it, and low broken ranges trending east, bounded it in that direction.
MUSSEL BEND.
The bend above where we slept we called Mussel Bend, from our finding several there: they appeared similar to those found by Oxley in the Macquarie. The country over which we travelled the first part of the day was exceedingly stony, and wore a most uninviting appearance.
While the party halted to skin a kangaroo I had been so fortunate as to shoot; I ascended the top of a neighbouring hill to make a sketch, and get some bearings. From this elevation I traced the river in a north-west direction for three miles, and I gazed with rapture, only known to the discoverer, upon a clear and magnificent expanse of water, yet greatly dismayed at its northerly direction. To the north-east was an extensive and apparently alluvial flat; while to the westward, the high land approached the river. It is worthy of remark, that so far as our observation extended, wherever the hills approach the river on one side they recede from it on the other.
DISCOVERED BY NATIVES.
Continuing in a more easterly direction in order to avoid the deep watercourses near the banks, we found the country wore a much less arid appearance, and changing our direction to North-North-West in order to ascend some high ranges distant two miles and a half, overlooking the east bank of the river, we came suddenly upon some native tracks, and presently surprised two children, who scampered down the bank in very natural alarm, and were soon lost among the tall reeds. A little further on we passed within 200 yards of three women carrying bundles of bark at their backs; their anxiety for their children had allowed us to approach thus close unseen; but no sooner were we discovered, than they raised a shout which was answered from the heights on our right, and from the banks of the river on our left, by parties evidently too numerous to render it prudent to attempt a nearer meeting. We therefore held on our way without appearing to notice them. They were quite naked, with the exception of a slight covering of bark round their waists. We halted at half-past ten A.M. in an open spot in the dry bed of the river, overlooked by a high table hill. Our party looked very much distressed from their half-day's work. The weather had been very close, and a good deal of the walking over broken ground; and these circumstances, coupled with the fact that the thermometer stood at 107 degrees in the shade, and that all had been for a long time cooped up in a small vessel, will fully explain and account for the general fatigue.
SUCCESSFUL FISHING.
In a pool of the river near our resting place, I caught, within an hour, some dozen good-sized fish: using a bait of kangaroo flesh. There were two sorts, one of the shape of a trout, and ten inches long; it had a dirty orange-yellow belly, and a muddy bronze back; the lower hole of the nose had a raised margin. The other measured seven inches, and resembled in shape a small fish at home, known to all schoolboys as the prickle-back; it was curiously marked, having five spots nearly black on each side, near the ridge of the back; the ground around them was a dark glossy brown; the belly was a slightly shining white, reaching as far up as the lower line of the eye and the margin of the spots.
While Mr. Bynoe was occupied in making sketches of them, which have been transmitted to Dr. Richardson, Mr. Forsyth and myself ascended a neighbouring hillock, and traced the river in a westerly direction for two miles; it then turned round to North-North-East: a deep narrow valley separated it from the higher land to the eastward. The bed of the river at this place, though partly dry, was wider than we had hitherto seen it, and the trees upon its banks still showed evident signs of being washed by a mountain torrent. After making a set of observations for longitude, we started again at 3 o'clock P.M. taking a north-west direction over a flat of tolerably fine light mould. Near here a party of natives crossed the river, in the direction of those we had first seen: perhaps to effect a junction of forces and demand the meaning of our strange intrusion. We took an East 1/2 North direction across the flat, but finding the ground very broken and stony, intersected by deep watercourses, and rendered additionally impracticable by high grass and thick reeds, we were compelled, after getting half across, to make the best of our way to the river.
FATIGUE OF THE PARTY.
It was intensely hot, not a breath of air stirring, and to add to our misfortunes, we had inadvertently dined off the contents of a canister of salt meat. We reached the river at half-past five, being all of us pretty well knocked up with heat, fatigue, and thirst: one of our party, I heard afterwards, drank nearly TWO QUARTS of water at a draught.
Further on in this reach, I determined to occupy quarters for the night; it was wide and deep, trending East by South, but shut in about a mile above our present position by a dry patch of stones, with clear banks on either side. As we were now in what appeared to be a rather thickly populated district of the country, it was requisite to choose a position beyond the reach of sudden attack. Having consulted our security as much as possible in this particular, I took, before dark, the necessary bearings and angles for the survey, and was delighted to observe that the valley of the river again trended away to the southward. We had a cool breeze after dark from the north-west, and the thermometer went down to 90 degrees. I had scarcely secured observations for latitude and longitude, before a squall from the south-east, accompanied by heavy rain, recalled the scene of last night.
CHARM OF DISCOVERY.
The same screams from the same kind of birds, disturbed in their roosting places, and the same mournful howling of the wind, as it swept fitfully through the trees that overshadowed us, broke the silence that had reigned around our solitary fire, and exercised their wondrous power over the imagination. In a few moments my thoughts were borne on to the very heart of this mysterious country, over many a dreary plain, where thirst, fatigue, and hunger were all forgotten. It is impossible to define the exact nature of the charm which particular minds find in the perils and adventures of discovery, whether on the shore or over the wave. Certain, however, it is, that scarce any motive of human exertion can compete with it in the powers of endurance it supplies to its votaries.
The squall served to clear the air, and was succeeded by a cool breeze from the north-west. The thermometer down to 87 degrees.
THIRSTY FLAT.
Yet cool, as comparatively speaking, the nights are here, still I could not but remark that the ground never became so; and this I imagine to be one of the principal causes of that fatigue from which some of our party suffered so much: during my watches I invariably noticed some poor fellow or another vainly trying to secure the rest of which he stood so much in need: rolling with restless anxiety from side to side, and sometimes in absolute despair, starting up on his feet: neither could I fail to note the wearying effect these broken slumbers produced, symptoms of which showed themselves more plainly each morning.
Having provided myself with the means of calculating the latitude, I worked the observations I had taken during the night. It placed the spot of our bivouac in 15 degrees 29 minutes South. We estimated our distance from the boats, having carefully timed ourselves each march, at 23 miles; 10 in an east, general direction, and 13 North-East by North.
November 10.
We pushed onwards in the cool of the morning, taking a South 20 degrees West direction, for three miles, crossing the eastern part of the flat to which we yesterday gave the name of Thirsty Flat, and found the soil a light mould, covered with long dry grass. This brought us to a bend in the river, trending in rather a tortuous manner east, and passing through a wide valley, with table ranges, varying from 5 to 600 feet on either side. Towards their summits there were perpendicular cliffs of some 30 or 40 feet, similar to the high land of Sea Range. The country just here was so thickly wooded that I was obliged to climb a tree in order to get the bearings. We noticed some very curious black horizontal streaks on the hills in our immediate vicinity. We crossed the river, or rather over its bed--a patch of stones--and found some shells of the water-tortoise at the remains of a native fire on the bank: we named the reach Tortoise Reach, in consequence. Here too Mr. Bynoe added some rare and beautiful specimens of finches to his collection.
ENERVATING EFFECT OF THE GREAT HEAT.
The cool north-west wind had now deserted us, and though yet scarcely nine o'clock A.M. the thermometer stood at 105 degrees. I had again the good fortune to shoot a kangaroo: it was a long cross-shot, the animal going at speed. Our route now lay across a barren stony plain, of which the vegetation it might once have boasted had been burnt off: the blackened ground, heated by the fierce rays of the sun, seemed still to us on fire. In crossing a creek which lay in our path, and which we managed to do by means of a fallen tree, Mr. Forsyth showed symptoms of being struck with the sun, but a little water, which I was happy enough to get from the creek, revived him. Several others of the party also complained of the trying effects of the great heat; after a short rest, I therefore determined on making for the river, which we arrived at in half an hour, near a bed of dry rocks, but with the reaches on either side wide and deep, and shut in by steep banks. By this time one of the men was seriously indisposed; all hopes, therefore, of proceeding much further upon this most interesting expedition I was compelled, though very reluctantly, to abandon. This was still the more a subject of deep regret, because the present width, and the south-easterly direction which the river now appeared to take, gave me just hopes that great progress might be made in the desired direction in the course of another day: while I felt satisfied that we were abandoning the course of a river whose undiminished magnitude made each mile's journey along its banks of increased interest, and which I felt convinced would, if followed out, conduct us far towards the heart of this terra incognita.
The weather continued calm and close; temperature at noon, in the shade 110 degrees. I noticed a difference in the bed of the river at the place where we prepared dinner: hitherto the dry spots, which from time to time we passed over, or halted upon, were strewn about with large boulders; here, however, we were encamping near a very remarkable rocky ledge, dipping to the south-east, and of the same character as the rocks on the sea coast, when seen at low-water.
APPROACH OF NATIVES.
Scarcely had we disposed of our invalid as comfortably as circumstances would admit, under a bank overshadowed by acacias and gumtrees, when we heard the shrill voices of an evidently large body of natives, concealed by the foliage on the opposite bank of the river, which was just here quite dry, and not more than eighty yards across.
PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE.
As I had no means of knowing either their number or intentions, it was necessary to make the best preparations that time and place would allow for defence, should it unhappily become necessary: a contingency which, in the debilitated condition of all the party, now too deprived altogether of the aid of one of its members, I could not contemplate without some anxiety. I directed the men to occupy such situations in the long grass as would give the most deceptive appearance to our numbers, and stationed Mr. Bynoe, Mr. Forsyth, and myself where, if required, we could act most effectually. These preparations were hardly complete, when two natives, accompanied by a large cream-coloured dog that howled mournfully, came down suddenly, shouting "Ho! ho!" upon the opposite bank, as though more clearly to reconnoitre our position. They were fine looking men, with bushy hair and spare limbs, quite naked, and apparently unarmed--a usual indication among the aborigines of Australia that their intentions are peaceful. They amused themselves for a time by making all sorts of gestures, shouting still "ho! ho!" to those of their body in concealment, from whom they had probably been detached for observation. What they thought of us, strange intruders as we must have appeared to them, it is not possible fully even to imagine; at any rate they seemed impressed with some sort of respect either for our appearance, jaded as we were, or our position, and forbore any nearer approach. I was of course very glad that no appeal to force was necessary: in the first place I should very reluctantly have resorted to it against those to whom we appeared in the character of invaders of a peaceful country, and in the second, had one of our party been wounded, the consequent delay would have rendered our return to the boats certainly a work of great difficulty, perhaps wholly impossible; for no considerations of expediency would in my mind have justified the abandonment of a defenceless comrade, wounded in the common cause, either to the natural dangers and privations of the country, or the barbarous revenge of its inhabitants. They continued in force, upon the opposite bank, for some time, and then gradually withdrew. I may remark that the condition and appearance of the two who made themselves visible, indicated their residence in a country fitted to supply abundantly all natural wants. I should also state that I could not perceive that extraordinary exaggeration of a certain Jewish ceremony, that prevailed in one part of King Sound.
APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES.
It is to be regretted that our position would not allow us to seek the acquaintance of these people. I could not help comparing the bold, fearless manner in which they came towards us--their fine manly bearing, head erect, no crouching or quailing of eye--with the miserable objects I had seen at Sydney. I now beheld man in his wild state; and, reader, rest assured there is nothing can equal such a sight. Before me stood two of the aboriginal inhabitants of Australia who had never, until then, encountered the hitherto blighting look of a European.
After a long rest, we were enabled to move on again slowly in the cool of the evening, along the south bank of the river, followed by one of the native dogs, that differed only from those I had seen on other parts of the coast, in being rather larger.
EMU PLAINS.
Two miles further brought us into a fine open plain, over which two emus were going best pace; we therefore named it in their honour: while the valley to the southward was christened after the Beagle, and the ranges on either side bore the names of her former and present commander: those to the north-east and south-west were called, after the officers who accompanied me, Forsyth and Bynoe Ranges. The soil on Emu Plains was far superior to any we had seen since leaving the boat, and was lightly and picturesquely timbered with the white gum. We were very cautious in choosing our sleeping berth for the night, to avoid a surprise during the dark; we therefore selected a friendly hollow beneath the stem of a straggling and drooping old gumtree, large enough to conceal the whole party, near the centre of a great patch of pebbles, with the river, on one side, within a hundred yards of us, and on the other, distant about three hundred.
Those who are practically conversant with such positions as this, will readily call to mind what a safeguard from any nightly approach was afforded by the loose pebbles that surrounded us, upon which not even the unshod foot of a native could fall without so much of accompanying noise as would serve to put the watch with his ear to the ground upon the qui vive: this was proved to be the case during the night, when we distinctly heard the footsteps of the prowling savages. We had no squall, and except this interruption, the howling of native dogs, and the shrill peculiar whistle of a flock of vampires constantly flying backwards and forwards over our heads, we slept in peace in our comfortable little retreat.
UPWARD COURSE OF THE VICTORIA.
Our last regretful view of this part of the Victoria--for every member of our little band seemed to feel an equal interest in the subject--was taken from a position in latitude 15 degrees 36 minutes and longitude 130 degrees 52 minutes East; 140 miles distant from the sea: but still 500 miles from the centre of Australia. Its apparent direction continued most invitingly from the southward--the very line to the heart of this vast land, whose unknown interior has afforded so much scope for ingenious speculation, and which at one time I had hoped, that it was reserved for us to do yet more in reducing to certainty. And though from the point upon which I stood to pay it my last lingering farewell, the nearest reach of water was itself invisible, yet far, far away I could perceive the green and glistening valleys through which it wandered, or rather amid which it slept; and the refreshing verdure of which assured me, just as convincingly as actual observation could have done, of the constant presence of a large body of water; and left an indelible impression upon my mind, which subsequent consideration has only served to deepen, that the Victoria will afford a certain pathway far into the centre of that country, of which it is one of the largest known rivers.
When I had at length most reluctantly made up my mind that all further progress along the banks of the Victoria must be abandoned, I left the spot of our temporary encampment, and proceeded alone a short distance in the direction of the interior; as though partly to atone, by that single and solitary walk towards the object of my eager speculation, for the grievous disappointment I experienced at being compelled to return. It was something, even by this short distance, to precede my companions in the exciting work of discovery--to tread alone the solitary glades upon which, till now, no native of the civilized West had set his foot--and to muse in solemn and unbroken silence upon the ultimate results of the work to which the last few days had been devoted--to mark the gradual but certain progression of civilization and christianity--and to breathe forth, unwitnessed and uninterrupted, the scarce coherent words of thankful adoration for the providential care which had hitherto sustained and directed us.
RETURN HOMEWARDS.
November 12.
I found our invalid so much recovered to-day, that I determined on making a short march homewards in the cool of the early morning. We reached Tortoise Reach by 8 o'clock A.M. where we passed the day. During our morning's walk I again had the luck to knock over a kangaroo. It was a female, and had a very young one in its pouch. It is worthy of remark that most of those I killed were does, with young ones of different ages, which afforded Mr. Bynoe the means of making some interesting observations on the manner in which they are brought forth, which will be found further on in the part of the work relating to Houtman's Abrolhos, where more opportunities occurred of arriving at a satisfactory result. Mr. Bynoe added here to his collection of birds, to which also, I was so fortunate as to be able to contribute a beautiful specimen of a rifle-green glossy ibis, common in Europe. I tried the water with a very roughly manufactured fly: the fish rose repeatedly at it, though there was scarcely a ripple, and notwithstanding my own want of success under these unpropitious circumstances, I feel perfectly satisfied that with proper tackle, and on a favourable day, this prince of sports might be enjoyed on the Victoria.