COEPANG FROM THE ANCHORAGE.G. Gore, del.London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.
COEPANG FROM THE ANCHORAGE.G. Gore, del.London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.
COEPANG FROM THE ANCHORAGE.G. Gore, del.London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.
A meagre-looking apology for a soldier, leaning against a tree, suggested to us that we must be near the Resident's dwelling: we were so. It soon appeared that it was the last of the large houses before mentioned, and that the soldier was the sentinel.
VISIT THE RESIDENT.
We were speedily ushered into the presence of D.T. Vanden Dungen Gronovius. What sort of person, reader, do you picture to yourself with such a name? Great of course; and in truth such was he, not only in height and bulk, but as he soon informed us, in deeds likewise; he talked fast, and smoked faster, and possessed a general knowledge of all the recent discoveries. We learned from him that the Zelee and Astrolabe were laid on their beam ends for twenty-four hours in the hurricane of last November, when the Pelorus was lost at Port Essington. After listening to some strange and amusing stories about Borneo, where the Resident had been Superintendent for twelve years, we took our leave. I was glad to find that Mr. Gronovius entertained views more liberal than Dutchmen generally do. He had, as he told me, written to the Governor-General at Batavia, requesting that Coepang might be made a free port, and emigration allowed. He most kindly offered us horses and guides for riding or shooting.
FORT CONCORDIA.
The observations for latitude, longitude, etc. were made in Fort Concordia,* near the flagstaff. I was surprised to find this fort so much out of repair; the only guns fit to be fired out of were two brass six-pounders, the carriages indeed of which were not trustworthy. On these guns I noticed the same mark as on that we found at Houtman's Abrolhos, namely, two sides of a triangle bisecting two small circles. I never see an old fort without thinking of the anecdote of a party from the Beagle visiting one at Valdivia on the west coast of South America. The guns were very much out of repair, and when the remark was made to the old Spaniard who showed the fort, that they would not bear to be fired out of ONCE, with a shrug of his shoulders he replied that he thought they would bear it TWICE! But to return to Fort Concordia: it stands on a madreporic rocky eminence, about 60 feet in elevation, commanding the straggling town of Coepang, which, certainly, from the anchorage** does not impress the stranger with a favourable opinion of the industry of its inhabitants, though it improves in proportion as you retreat from the beach. The foot of the height on which the fort stands is washed by a small rapid stream that skirts the south side of the town. Its course from the eastward is marked by a deep gorge, on the sides of which a stranger might feast his eyes on the riches of tropical scenery. Here and there above the mass of humbler vegetation, a lofty tapering coconut tree would rear its graceful form, bowing gently in the passing breeze. On every hill was presented the contrast of redundant natural verdure, clothing its sides and summit, and of cultivated fields along the lower slopes. These by irrigation are turned into paddy plantations, the winds blowing over which give rise to those insidious fevers, intermittent, I am told, in their character, which are so prevalent at Coepang, as well as dysentery, from which indeed the crew of the Beagle afterwards suffered.
(*Footnote. Latitude 10 degrees 10 minutes 11 seconds South, and longitude 9 degrees 50 minutes 00 seconds West of Swan River.)
(**Footnote. See the view annexed.)
DUTCH MILITARY FORCE.
The whole force the Dutch have at Coepang is sixty soldiers, half of whom, too, are Javanese. Yet the subjection in which this small force keeps the natives, is beyond belief. A sergeant is the commandant at Rottee, and such power has he over the inhabitants, that he can at any time raise a thousand armed men in the course of a few hours. Many of the largest ponies used at Coepang, are brought from Rottee. Their origin no one could give me any information about; all agree in saying they were found with the island, and the natives have no traditions.
THE RESIDENT'S TALES.
My second visit to the Resident was for the purpose of accepting his offer of a guide, and of making arrangements for a day's shooting. I found him as usual, sitting smoking in a large cool room. We were soon in the interior of Borneo, the scene of his former exploits. Some of these were of so sanguinary a character, that they do him very little credit; and many of his tales partook of the marvellous. Among the Dyaks, natives of the interior, it is a custom, he said, that when a man wishes to marry, he must produce a certain number of human heads. He related that he had once seen a very handsome young woman, to whom a number of heads had been delivered, swimming about in some water, and playing with them. At another time he averred that he saw a woman mix human brains with water and drink it! Mr. Gronovius also informed me that the land on the western sides both of Timor and Borneo was gaining on the sea, particularly at the latter place; and a report prevailed that on some of the elevated parts of the former chama shells had been found. In answer to my inquiries about earthquakes, I was told that, only the last month the island of Ternate in 0 degrees 50 minutes North had been visited by one, which had thrown down all the houses, and that in 1690, the town of Coepang had also been destroyed. From the Resident also, I received accounts of three ports in Rottee, one on the north-west side, another on the south-east, and a third, on the north-east, opening into Rottee Strait.
THE TIMOREES.
Among the fresh information gained from Mr. Gronovius during this visit, was an account of the natives of Timor called Timorees. They are very superstitious, and when a person of consequence dies, a number of karabows (buffaloes) pigs, and ponies are killed and placed over his grave, as an offering to the evil spirit. Some, in case of sickness, imagine, that by eating a whole buffalo, even the horns and hoofs, by degrees, they can appease the anger of the demon to whom they attribute all their misfortunes.
Many of the Timorees have really handsome features, strikingly different from the Malays. Their hair, which is neither woolly nor straight, but crisp, and full of small waves, is worn long behind, and kept together by a curiously formed comb. There is altogether a degree of wildness in their appearance that ill accords with their situation; for nearly all the Timorees in Coepang are slaves sold by the Rajahs of the different districts, the value of a young man being fifty pounds.
A powerful Rajah, commonly called the Emperor of Timor, visited Coepang during our stay there. Unfortunately we all missed seeing him. He was attended by a large and well-armed guard, and appeared to be on very good terms with the merchants of the place, who made him several presents, no doubt through interested motives; probably he supplies them with slaves. His character is notoriously bad; it was only the other day that he had one of his wives cut to pieces, for some very trifling offence.
A SHOOTING EXCURSION.
On taking my leave of the Resident, I fixed the day for our shooting excursion. We were to go to a place called Pritie, on the northern shore of Babao Bay, and distant some fifteen miles from the ship, which rendered it necessary therefore to make an early start.
Daylight on Monday morning accordingly found us on the northern shore of the bay, but we soon ascertained that our guide knew very little about the matter; and what was still worse, there was no getting near the shore, a bank of soft mud fronting it for some distance, at this time of tide, and particularly in the vague direction our guide gave us of Pritie. The day was fast advancing; so we made our way back to a cliffy projection we had passed before light, where, after some difficulty, we got on shore. Whilst the breakfast was cooking, I made a sketch of the bay, and took a round of angles, all the charts and plans I had seen being very erroneous.
Our guide appeared to take our not going to Pritie greatly to heart; but we made the best of our way to some clear spots on the side of the high land seen from the boat. We met a few natives, who all agreed there were plenty of deer close by, which we believed, for we saw numbers of very recent tracks. But the jungle was impenetrable; so, after rambling for an hour or two, at the expense of nearly tearing the clothes off our backs, and emulating the folly of the wise man of Thessaly, we again determined to make for Pritie, or at least to try and find it. The tide too now served, and after a pull of some hours, carefully examining every creek and bight, we spied at length two canoes hauled up among a patch of mangroves. Landing, we soon found some houses, and a person to show us the road to Pritie; for we had still a walk of three miles across a well watered flat piece of country. We were highly pleased with this, to us, novel sight; and our enjoyment was heightened by beholding the tricks and grimaces of some impudent monkeys perched on the tops of the lofty trees, out of shot range, and too nimble to be hit with a ball.
VALE OF PRITIE.
We at last reached our destination, on the eastern side of a beautiful stream. Immediately to the northward some lofty peaks reared their rugged summits in an amphitheatre round the rich and picturesque vale of Pritie, which lay at the feet of their varied slopes, one mass of tropical vegetation. Trees of enormous height shot up by the waterside, and between them, as we approached, the little sharp-roofed houses of the village of Pritie could be seen scattered here and there amidst their gardens.
Our old guide, who had by this time recovered his serenity of mind, led us direct to the Commandant, a mild and very civil old Javanese, to whom orders had been sent by the Resident at Coepang to show us every attention. His room was adorned by a magnificent pair of antlers which, we were rejoiced to hear, had been lately taken from a deer shot within a hundred yards of the house. After a repast of young coconuts, and gula, a kind of honey; it was arranged that a party should be collected to go with us on the morrow to shoot deer and pigs.
Our host now took us to see the village, and then conducted us to the house we were to occupy during our sojourn at Pritie, which was a large homely-built edifice erected for the Resident's use when he visits this neighbourhood. We spent the dusk of the evening in pigeon-shooting, but did not meet with much success; for the birds perched for the most part on the summits of trees so lofty that they were quite out of shot-range. Many of these giants of the forest must have attained the height of at least two hundred feet. They formed a grand element in the landscape, especially when their huge trunks rose by the side of the limpid water of the stream that intersects the vale of Pritie. Between their topmost boughs, to the north, the amphitheatre of hills which I have mentioned lifted up their indistinct forms, round which the shades of night were gathering, towards the heavens, that soon began to glisten with a multitude of faint stars.
EVENING REPAST.
By the time we got within doors, after our unsuccessful stroll, we were quite tired, and well prepared to enjoy our dinner. The dignified air assumed by our guide, evidently for the purpose of showing off, and the ostentatious liberality with which he proffered the goodly viands sent by the commandant, amused us highly. An account of our fare may be acceptable to the gastronomic reader, who will thus be enabled to determine whether he should envy or pity the voyager to the distant shores of Timor. First came tea and coffee; then, in the course of an hour, followed fowls, cooked in all sorts of ways, with a proportion of rice. The good things were brought in by a train of domestics some fifty yards long, headed by a paunchy, elderly man, who greatly reminded us of Caleb Balderston. If there was a word said by any of the lookers-on--for many came to have a gaze at the lions--he was out in a moment, and brought the offender to account. In short, by his officious attention he afforded us much amusement, and greatly contributed to our proper enjoyment of the dinner. Our candles were original ones--a few threads of cotton drawn through a roll of bees' wax.
Dinner being over, we retired to pass as cold a night as we had felt for some time, having only a few coarse mats to cover us; so that long before daylight we were obliged to get up and walk about for the purpose of warming ourselves. The first of the morning we spent again pigeon-shooting; the birds were large and wild, yet we managed to get a few.
THE HILLS IN A MIST.
This excursion gave us an opportunity of beholding the mountains of Timor under a remarkable aspect. From various openings in the woody plain we could perceive their sides, clothed in grey mist, above which sometimes we caught a glimpse of a pinnacle rising through the clear air, and just touched by the rays of the morning sun. Here and there the slopes of the hills were dimly seen through the vapour, which in other places, however, rolled along in thick masses, completely hiding the uplands from view. Nearly every gorge and valley was filled with heavy volumes of fog, whilst in some, a slight steam only rising, allowed the trees to be faintly discovered. There is nothing more grand than the aspect of lofty peaks and crags and precipices imperfectly revealed through a morning mist. It seems as though the darkness of night, unwilling to depart, lingers still fondly around them. Their hollows and recesses are still wrapt in gloom, when all else around is beaming with light. Within the tropics the contrast thus afforded has a startling effect; but the influence of the sun is not long to be resisted; the mist soon begins to disperse; valley after valley opens its depths to the view; the outline of each rocky peak becomes more and more defined against the deep blue sky, and presently the whole scene appears before you clear and bright, with every line sharply drawn, every patch of colour properly discriminated, a splendid panorama of towering hills and waving forests.
Whilst I was gazing at this picture, the report of a fowling piece behind me drew my attention, and on turning I was surprised to see the old commandant out shooting likewise, and with him no less a person than Caleb Balderston, as we had christened his faithful domestic. In their company we returned to Pritie.
MUSTER OF THE PARTY.
Soon after breakfast our party began to muster, each man armed with a long-condemned Tower musket. On one of them I was surprised to recognize the name of a marine who had belonged to the Beagle in 1827. The powder they used was of the coarsest kind, carried in small pieces of bamboo, each containing a charge, and fitted in a case of skin, something like our cartouch boxes. As a substitute for balls they used BOLTS OF STONE, from two to three inches long. Besides a musket, each had a huge knife or chopper, stuck in his belt. I was much struck with the simple contrivance they had for shoes: a piece of the fan palm plaited together and tied under the foot. The number of uses to which this tree is applied is astonishing--for making water-buckets, for thatching houses, filling up the panel-work of doors, and a variety of others I could mention.
It was late before we could muster all our force; but we at length got away, commandant and all. I was much pleased with the respect everyone paid him, especially as he was one of those mild kind persons who require very little. Soon after leaving the village we halted in a shady spot, near a stream of water, some of our party being still missing. This gave me a good opportunity of comparing the features of the Malay and Timoree, for some of both were in attendance. The Malay has a much more open countenance than the Timoree, but is not so handsome, the latter having a more aquiline nose.
THE SHOOTING ARRANGEMENTS.
When they all arrived I counted fifty armed men. There were some whose grey hairs proclaimed their lengthened years; though there was a keenness in their eyes that revealed that the principle of vitality was strong within them yet; in others all the dash and vigour of youth was perceptible; many had a truly wild appearance, with their long bushy hair and ever restless eye. It was a picturesque sight to behold fifty such fine fellows scattered about in small groups in the deep shade of these solitudes.
All the necessary arrangements being made, we once more started. An hour's walk brought us to a rather large plain, where I and my companions were stationed, about a hundred yards asunder, whilst the rest of the party formed a circle, driving all the game in our direction. Unfortunately those on the left commenced hallooing before those on the right, in which latter direction the only three deer in the circle ran from the noise, instead of towards us. Two of them were shot, and by the stone bolts above mentioned. We now went to fresh ground, when, provoking to say, the same thing happened again, not without our suspicions being raised that this was purposely contrived; so that after all we were obliged to leave without a single shot. Each deer, the largest of which, a doe, must have weighed a hundred pounds, was shot STANDING, for the natives have a peculiar cry, which arrests the animal's progress for a moment, while they fire.
THE JAVANESE COMMANDANT.
The deer were all brought up to the commandant, who begged our acceptance of them. We thanked him, and took the two smallest. By the time we reached Pritie they were skinned and hung up, ready to be put into the boats. The persons who had shot them had received their stone bolts again very little injured; the hole they make is enormous. We rewarded these people; but to the commandant we were really at a loss how to express our obligations. At length we thought of giving him some powder and shot, which was a present he seemed right glad to receive. I afterwards learnt the history of this excellent old Javanese, and was surprised and grieved to hear that a person so universally esteemed had been banished from Java and his family for some trifling political offence. His property was sold to purchase his freedom, and the proceeds were entrusted to the captain of a ship, who ran off with the whole, thus at once ruining a most worthy family, and reducing my good friend the commandant to the necessity of remaining in exile. I was glad to hear, on my second visit to Timor, that he was still alive and well, though without any prospect of an alleviation to his condition.
Wishing him farewell, we left Pritie with some regret. By dark we had crossed Babao Bay, and reached the ship at half-past eight. It may be as well to mention that, looking from Coepang, the valley of Pritie is situated immediately under Timor Peak, the highest over the northern shore of Babao Bay. A small hut, on a projecting shingle point, close to the westward, marks the landing place, where several canoes are generally to be seen hauled up. At high tide a boat can get in; but, as we have already said, there is a long mud flat at low-water.
THE TIMOREES.
The Timorees do not bear the character of being very industrious; the small portion of land they cultivate is turned up in the following manner: a slight fence is placed round the part required for the purposes of agriculture and a drove of bullocks is driven furiously backwards and forwards over it; which very much resembles the mode adopted for thrashing corn in some parts of South America.
The Rajahs of the western portion of Timor receive their appointment from the Resident at Coepang; and their installation I am told is rather a grand affair. Nearly all the Timorees speak Malay, a soft pleasant-sounding tongue, apparently easy to be acquired; but there were few of the Coepang people that spoke the native language. Some of the Timor customs are singular: if a woman, for example, dies in childbirth, she is buried on the spot where she breathes her last.
DUTCH SETTLEMENT IN NEW GUINEA.
During our stay at Coepang I met the doctor of the Dutch settlement at Triton Bay, on the west coast of New Guinea. He gave me a very poor account of the inhabitants. The Dutch settlers, he says, can scarcely venture out of the fort; as the natives have bows and arrows, as well as muskets, with which they are excellent marksmen. Their firearms they obtain in exchange for birds of paradise, tortoise-shell and birds-nests, from vessels from the Arru, and other islands in the Eastern Archipelago. When a vessel arrives on the coast they flock down from the interior to trade, which cannot be done without an interpreter. It is even then attended with great risk, owing to the extreme treachery of the natives. Knives, stained blue, and cotton goods are in great request; but, although they of aware of the superiority of Europeans, they will not on any account allow them to live in their country. The inhabitants, however, are better disposed on the shores of Great Bay, a deep indentation on the north-east side of the island, where great quantities of nutmeg grow.
On the 5th the Mangles arrived from Sydney by the outer route through Torres Strait, having lost all her anchors, and been nearly wrecked in a south-east gale near Halfway Island. She was commanded by the same master, Mr. Carr, to whom I have before alluded as having given the first information concerning the survivors of the crew of the Charles Eaton.
ISLAND OF ROTTEE.
The next afternoon we weighed, and the following morning anchored, the water being deep, close in near Tykale Inlet, on the south-west side of Rottee, for observations,* and for the purpose of better determining the position of Pulo Douw, and the other islands in its neighbourhood.
(*Footnote. They placed the south point of the inlet in latitude 10 degrees 46 minutes 18 seconds South and longitude 0 degrees 43 minutes 50 seconds West of Coepang.)
An extensive coral flat fronts this part of Rottee, connecting it with the small islands lying off it.
We got from the natives some shells of a kind of small green mussel of a very peculiar shape. The old men from whom I got them was making a meal from some rare shell-fish. He did not understand the value of money; and, strange to say, not a word of the Malay language. The same was the case with all his companions. At the part of Samow I visited the people all understood it, which is very remarkable, as only a narrow strait separates the islands. In this state of ignorance they may perhaps be purposely kept.
I here recognised several Australian shrubs and palms. The rock of which this port of Rottee is formed appeared of a madreporic nature, scattered about in huge blocks. At a little distance from the water it formed low broken cliffs from twenty to thirty feet in length; these were everywhere undermined by the sea, from which the land here was evidently emerging. I noticed several deserted huts and broken walls or fences, which bore the appearance of having had much labour bestowed on them at some time or other. They added much to the lonely appearance of the place, for there is nothing that imparts so great an air of desolation to a scene as the signs that it has once been inhabited by man. Tracts which have never before been trodden by human foot may be gazed on with pleasurable emotions; but there are always melancholy associations connected with a spot which our fellow-creatures have once inhabited and abandoned.
The natives we saw belonged to the southern side of Tykale Inlet. They were occupied in looking after some weirs, from the size and number of which it would appear that they chiefly live on fish.
JEWELLERS OF PULO DOUW.
The inhabitants of Pulo Douw are a small wandering tribe from Savu, chiefly jewellers, as the Resident at Coepang informed me. It is a strange place for them to take up their abode in; perhaps they do not like the idea of living under a Rajah. They are, I believe, beautiful workmen; but with them all is not gold that glitters. There are plenty of coconuts in the island, but little water; the landing at all times is bad.
When at Coepang we saw some specimens of the gold, collected after heavy rains from the washings of the hills, and brought down for barter to the merchants in grains enclosed in small lengths of bamboo, containing each from six to eighteen drams. Thirty miles south-west of Diely, also, are some mines of virgin copper.
Sail from Rottee.Search for shoal.Dampier's Archipelago.Examination of coast.Strange weather.Natives.Passage between Delambre and Huiy Islands.Proceed to Montebello Isles.Description of them.Barrow's Island.Tryal Rocks.New kangaroo.Abundance of turtle.New wallaby.Sail for Swan River.Find Ritchie's Reef.Islands between Barrow's and North-West Cape.Table of soundings.Swan River Native.Anchor under Rottnest.Vocabulary.Erect beacons.Bad weather.Habits of a native dog.Geological observations.Sail from Swan River.Error in position of Cape Naturaliste.King George's Sound.Appearance of Bald Head.Princess Royal Harbour.Origin of settlement.Town of Albany.Salubrity of climate.Excursion into interior.Course a kangaroo.Pitfalls.Herds of kangaroos.Rich country.The Hay River.Return to Albany.Departure for South Australia.Discover an Island.Death of a seaman.Position of Neptune Isles.Kangaroo, Althorp and Quoin Islands.Holdfast Road.Adelaide.Description of country.Governor Gawler's policy.Visit the Port.Mr. Eyre's expedition.Hardships of Overlanders.Cannibalism.Meet Captain Sturt.Native schools.System of education.Sail for Sydney.Squalls.Error in coast.Bass Strait.Arrive at Sydney.
Leaving Rottee we passed, soon after dark, round the western end of Pulo Douw, and stood for the position of a shoal reported by Mr. Lewis of the Colonial schooner, Isabella, to be in latitude 14 degrees 43 minutes South, and longitude 119 degrees 20 minutes East. Our inducement to search for this shoal was the fact of its being supposed to lie in the direct route of vessels sailing between Timor and the West coast of Australia. But after searching from the 9th to the 14th, and sounding repeatedly without getting bottom, we came to the conclusion that it did not exist. Breakers could have been seen at least ten miles from the Beagle's masthead, as there was a considerable swell from the south-west.
LIGHT WINDS.
On the 15th we were in latitude 16 degrees 05 minutes South and longitude 118 degrees 16 minutes East. After one of those stagnant calms so frequently met with near the equator, we got a light westerly breeze on the morning of the 18th. Towards midnight it freshened, veering from South-West by South to West-South-West with some rather sharp rain squalls. It appears that the westerly winds had already set in, and that the calm we experienced on the 17th was an unoccupied space between the easterly and westerly winds. There are few parts of the globe where light winds prevail so much as on the North-west coast of New Holland, particularly between the latitudes of 13 and 17 degrees, and from one to two hundred miles from the land. They are, however, excepting in the months of January, February, and March, from the eastward, south-east in the morning and east in the afternoon. These winds prevented us from making the coast on the eastward of Depuch Island; and as we had failed in getting a supply of provisions at Timor, we were compelled to relinquish the plan of continuing the examination of that part of the coast between the Turtle Islands and Roebuck Bay.
BEZOUT ISLAND.
The Beagle was consequently anchored under Bezout Island, one of the eastern isles of Dampier's Archipelago, and boats were sent to examine the coast on the southward of Cape Lambert.
It may, perhaps, be worthy of remark, that should a vessel be brought by any chance to this dreary part of the world in May, June, or July, anchorages exposed to easterly winds should be left at or before daylight--that being the time they set in; by noon all is again quiet. Bezout Island is of the same formation as Depuch; and so are many of the broken ridges, with bare stony summits, of a dark brown hue, on the main near Cape Lambert, trending South-South-West. A more dreary sterile country can scarcely be seen; yet it still maintains inhabitants.
August 26.
The weather has been truly strange for the last four days. The winds, instead of being easterly have been from South-west to North-west, light with the former during the mornings, and moderate with the latter in the evenings. On this day they were from all quarters, with distant thunder in the north-west, and several rain squalls. In the night it settled at east, a fresh breeze bringing with it fine weather. In connection with our former remarks on striking vicissitudes in the weather occurring near the change of the moon, we should mention that it was new moon the day following.
The material for the chart collected in this part consists of the main from below Picard Island to nearly twenty miles west of Cape Lambert, with the neighbouring islands, an extent of nearly forty-five miles. The part near Picard Island was carefully examined by Mr. Forsyth. He reported the main to the South-South-West of that island, forming the head of the bay between Cape Lambert and Depuch, to be extensive flats of mud and sand, over which the sea sometimes passed. Between Picard and Cape Lambert the shore is cut up by mangrove creeks. On a hill up one of these, several small kangaroos were seen. Near the Cape Mr. Forsyth perceived twenty-seven natives, seven of whom were children, in one party.
DELAMBRE ISLAND.
On the 27th we crossed over to Delambre Island, on which a large party landed in the afternoon. A few turtle were here taken, of a different kind from any we had seen before, and apparently a cross between the Hawk's Bill and the Green Turtle; several nests were also found, in one of which were 138 eggs. This island terminates, like Bezout Island, to the northward, in cliffs about 90 feet high, with deep water close to; on the east and west sides it is fronted by a reef nearly a mile in extent; but we could see no traces of those lying three miles to the North-North-West of the North-West point, laid down by Captain King. The passage between Huiy Island and Delambre is five miles wide, though clear for two miles only, and in working out we found that it had a very uneven bottom, over which a two-knot tide causes heavy ripplings. We noticed that a hill, lying nine miles to the south-west of Bezout Island, called in the chart Round-backed Hill, bearing between South 5 degrees East, and South 15 degrees East, clears the reefs on either side the channel; and that the same hill bearing South 24 degrees West leads between Bezout and Delambre, and South 8 degrees West clears the reef off the eastern side of the latter.
THE MONTEBELLO GROUP.
From Delambre we proceeded to the Montebello Islands, principally in order to set at rest two points of great interest, namely, the position of Ritchie's Reef, and of the long lost Tryal Rocks. On the 31st, in the afternoon, we anchored in 6 fathoms on the eastern side of Tremouille Island, a cliffy islet off the south-east end of which bore South 42 degrees East two miles. The tide was ebbing and setting to the North-North-East two knots an hour. We found the Montebello Group to be confined by a coral reef encircling it. The two principal islands are Tremouille and Hermite Islands. The fact that these and their neighbours are not separated in the charts fully evinced the necessity of our visit. Leaving a boat to examine them, the ship proceeded towards the northern end of Barrow's Island, being anxious to avoid the southerly winds to which the anchorage off Tremouille is exposed. These usually commenced at midnight, blowing from south-west, freshening and veering to south by 8 A.M., and by about 10 moderating at South-South-East. On our way to Barrow's Island they were so violent as to cause the ship to drive with two anchors ahead, there appearing to be no holding ground, but simply a coating of sand over a rocky ledge. During the prevalence of these winds the temperature varied from 66 to 76 degrees.
Near Barrow's Island, on our passage, I shot (from the quarter-boat) the largest sea-snake ever killed. It is figured and described in the Appendix, by Mr. J.E. Gray, as Hydrus major, and measured eight feet one inch in length, by three inches broad; the colour was a dark yellow: several smaller ones striped brown and white were also seen.
BARROW'S ISLAND.
We found that from the Montebello Group a long series of reefs and small islands, the largest and most central of which is called Lowendal, extends towards Barrow's Island, leaving a winding channel* along the north side of the latter. Near the centre of the western side of the reef is a cluster which proved to be the long-lost Tryal Rocks; the middle and largest of which is in latitude 20 degrees 35 minutes South and longitude 0 degrees 17 minutes West of Swan River.** The reef continues along the eastern side of Barrow's Island, extending off three miles; our anchorage was consequently little more than that distance from the shore. We examined the northern and eastern sides; the former is composed of red sandstone cliffy projections, separated by sandy bays, fronted for nearly two miles by a coral reef, partly dry at low-water; but the south part of the eastern side becomes very low; and where the cliffs end there is a remarkable valley trending westwards. There were recent marks of the sea many feet above the ordinary reach of the tides, bespeaking occasional strong south-east winds. A number of stony-topped hills, from 150 to 200 feet in height, were scattered over the northern parts of the island. In the valleys was a little sandy soil, nourishing the spinifex, and a stunted kind of wood sufficiently large for fuel.
(*Footnote. Lowendal Island, bearing east, leads into it.)
(**Footnote. We recognised them from a sketch furnished by the Admiralty, and made in 1719 by a Dutch sloop sent in search of them from Batavia. They placed them eight degrees west from the coast of New Holland. If we take leagues instead of degrees it would bring them near their actual distance from the shore. Van Keulen says they were seen in the ship Vaderland Getrouw, and found to be in 20 degrees 30 seconds south. In 1777 they were seen by Captain Joss, of the Danish ship Frederisberg Castel, who places them in 20 degrees 40 minutes South. It was by his description that I recognised them beyond a doubt, although his longitude would place them thirteen degrees more to the westward, and near the position they have occupied for years in the charts. The centre of them bears North by East five miles and a quarter from Cape Dupuis, the north-west point of Barrow's Island.)
NEW KANGAROO.
We found a new kind of kangaroo and wallaby on Barrow's Island; but the only specimen obtained of the former was destroyed through the neglect of the person in whose charge it was left. It was a buck, weighing fifty pounds, of a cinnamon colour on the back and a dirty white on the belly; the hair was fine and long; the head of a peculiar shape, resembling a dog's, with a very blunt nose; the forearms were very short; the hind feet cushioned like those inhabiting rocky ground. The does appeared to be much lighter; but all were very wary and scarce. From the number of red sandhills, too, scattered over the island, they were difficult to be seen at a distance. From our description of this specimen it has been named Osphranter isabellinus. With the wallaby we were more fortunate, Mr. Bynoe and myself succeeding in knocking over four, weighing from five to eight pounds; they also had blunt noses, and were of a light brown colour, quite different from those on the Abrolhos.
Two iguanas, measuring seven feet in length, and nearly black, striped slightly with white, were also killed here.
We did not find any surface water; everything wore a dry parched appearance. No traces of natives were discovered, except some charred pieces of wood. Indeed I may remark that we saw signs of fire on every part of the continent we visited. From the south extremity of the island a long reef trended in the direction of the mainland, where Captain King traced it extending off some distance, thus connecting with the shore the whole of these islands, which seem to lie in a line with each other, like the various parts of a submerged piece of land. The small isles, especially between the Montebello Group and Barrow's Island, have all the same direction; so that it seems fair to conclude that they were once a part of the main, being in fact fragments of a promontory, forming a gulf similar to Exmouth Gulf, lying on the south-west of it. I had been led to expect this from the fact of our finding the flood-stream coming from the north-east, whereas the direction of it in the offing is North-North-West.
SUPPLY OF TURTLES.
Barrow's Island, being about twelve miles broad and twenty long, would, in the event of a penal settlement being formed in this neighbourhood, make a good second Norfolk Island. On leaving we brought away with us seven tons of turtles from the abundant supplies its shores afforded. Many of them we gave to our friends at Swan River on our arrival. We cannot quit this island without reminding our readers that it was named after the distinguished Secretary to the Admiralty, who has just retired from office after a period of service of nearly half a century, during which time he was the promoter of all geographical research, and mainly instrumental in founding a society which is of growing importance to Great Britain, and who has established a lasting reputation both by his travels and his literary productions.
On our return to Tremouille Island Mr. Fitzmaurice joined us, having completed the examination of the Montebello Group, a large proportion of chart material, in a very short space of time, considering the number of small islands, which would render it an endless labour to attempt any description, further than that they lie something in the shape of a scythe.
RITCHIE'S REEF.
A hill 145 feet high, the loftiest point of the group, rises near the centre of Tremouille, the north-east island, off the north-west end of which a ledge extends in the direction of an out-lying reef, bearing North 55 degrees West (magnetic) nine miles and a half, which places it in latitude 20 degrees 17 minutes South and longitude 0 degrees 26 minutes West of Swan River; or 115 degrees 21 minutes East. This could be no other than that which we had so often looked for as Ritchie's Reef, as our former tracks to the westward had assured us that it did not lie in that direction. In latitude it agreed with the position given to it on the charts, but in longitude it differed considerably, lying full half a degree to the eastward. It therefore appeared not to be a discovery of Lieutenant Ritchie's, as it had been not only seen previously by the French, who had considered it as a reef extending off Tremouille Island, but many years before by Captain Clerke, who placed it in latitude 20 degrees 18 minutes South, nine or ten miles North-West (magnetic) from what he thought to be Rosemary Island, but which it is very evident was Tremouille. The name then of Clerke's Reef should be given it instead of Ritchie's.
WALLABY SHOOTING.
Mr. Fitzmaurice having seen plenty of wallaby on the larger islands, a party of us went on shore in the evening, after securing observations for the rates of the chronometers on a small islet called Flag Islet, near the centre of the rocky cluster fronting the eastern side of Hermite Island. This can be recognised by it alone having a sandy point on the south-west end, which we placed in latitude 20 degrees 27 minutes 47 seconds South and longitude 0 degrees 8 minutes 20 seconds west of Swan River. The time of high-water here at full and change, was about 10 o'clock, when the tide rose fourteen feet; the flood-stream came from the northward.
We found that Tremouille was as scantily supplied with vegetation as Barrow's Island; in one or two places was growing a stunted kind of wood, sufficient for fuel for a small-sized ship; but there was no sign of water. The wallaby, which were very numerous, must have got their supply of moisture from the copious dews. They were found lying very close in the wiry prickly grass, allowing us to kick them out, when they went off at speed, affording excellent sport, quite equal to any rabbit shooting; among three guns we managed, in a couple of hours, to bag nearly twenty. It was quite a new kind of wallaby, and has been classed, from a specimen we brought away, as Lagorchester conspicillata. It had a blunt nose, similar to those at Barrow's Island, and was about the same size, though its colour was lighter, and it had a back exactly like a European hare. The tail tapered away like a rat's, and the flesh was by no means good to eat, tasting very strong; this was the only instance in which we found wallaby at all unpalatable.
Although our exploration in this neighbourhood did not lead to our finding any of the land fertile, yet from the new feature our chart will give to this part of the coast, the necessity of the Beagle's visit will be evident. Our object had been satisfactorily attained, inasmuch as we had cleared up the doubts respecting Ritchie's Reef, and the long-lost Tryal Rocks. We had also been so fortunate as to add to the stores of natural history a new kangaroo and two kinds of wallaby, besides a large water-snake.
RITCHIE'S REEF.
September 9.
We left Tremouille Island in the morning, and passing round the north side, soon came in sight of Clerke's, alias Ritchie's Reef. It was our intention to have gone round the northern end of it, but the tide setting two knots an hour forced us to the southward. In a line midway between it and Tremouille the depth was 17 and 20 fathoms. The reef was nearly three miles long, in a north-east and south-west direction, and one mile and a half wide; the centre being partly dry. Two miles and a half South-West by West of it we crossed a patch of 13 fathoms, with 22 and 25 fathoms on each side, the northern part of Hermite Island bearing South 62 degrees East fourteen miles, soon after which it was lost sight of from the poop.
The next afternoon a westerly wind brought us again in with the land; and in the evening we tacked in six fathoms, three miles and a half to the northward of Thevenard Island, which we found to be connected with a reef we discovered in the morning, lying eleven miles North by East from it; inside this reef the water looked deep and smooth. The island is a narrow strip lying east and west, about three miles; the west end we made in latitude 21 degrees 26 minutes South and longitude 114 degrees 54 minutes East. From the number of islands I saw to the south of Thevenard, I think the reef continues to Maison Island, near the North-west Cape. The outer one, seen from the Beagle, is in latitude 21 degrees 31 minutes South and longitude 114 degrees 42 minutes East. I myself believe the whole extent from Maison to Barrow's Island is occupied by islets and reefs, probably all connected. We know, in fact, from Captain King, that a reef extends sixteen miles off the south end of Barrow's Island.
RESULT OF SOUNDINGS.
Seventeen miles in a North-West by North direction from Thevenard Island we had 65 fathoms, fine white sand, having deepened gradually from six fathoms three miles north of it. In June of this year, working to the North-East we had 68 fathoms three miles West by South of that position, and 111 fathoms six miles North-West of it; beyond this no bottom was found with 120 and 150 fathoms.*
(*Footnote. The following table is the result of other outer soundings obtained in the Beagle, showing how far the bank of soundings extends off the Western coast of Australia.
COLUMN 1: LATITUDE SOUTH (DEGREES, MINUTES).COLUMN 2: DEPTH IN FATHOMS.COLUMN 3: QUALITY OF BOTTOM.COLUMN 4: DISTANCE FROM NEAREST LAND.
32 02 : 70 : Fine white sand and rock : Rottnest or Garden Island 20 miles.30 55 : 86 : Fine grey sand : Main abreast 34 miles.29 38 : 127 : Fine grey sand : Main abreast 39 miles.26 42 : 187 : Fine grey sand : South point of Shark's Bay 37 miles.21 14 : 111 : Fine white sand : Thevenard Island 25 miles.20 00 : 150 : Fine white sand : Tremouille Island 35 miles.
It would thus appear that a ship in less than 110 fathoms off the west shore of the continent would be within forty miles of the land; and nearly the same distance from the islands fronting it, when in about 200 fathoms between the latitudes of 19 degrees 50 minutes South and 20 degrees 10 minutes South. The bank of soundings extends further off the North-west coast, as eighty-five miles north of Depuch Island we had only 75 fathoms, fine white sand. In a south direction from that position the water shoaled rapidly to 40 fathoms in fifteen miles; but very gradually afterwards to 15 fathoms in fifty miles. This slope of the bank was determined by several boards in working to the westward.)
RETURN TO SWAN RIVER.
The glimpse we got of the string of islands lying between Barrow's Island and the North-west Cape, was quite unexpected, as the next land we had intended seeing was Swan River. After rounding the North-west Cape, we had the usual southerly winds, but a strong breeze from the north-west overtook us in latitude 30 degrees 40 minutes South and longitude 112 degrees 25 minutes East, and shortened the passage, bringing us on the 27th to an anchorage under the east end of Rottnest Island, where we found a current sweeping round to the southward, at the rate of nearly a knot an hour. There had not been any previously felt; but in latitude 30 degrees South and longitude 110 degrees East, two days before the north-wester, it set two knots to the northward; another instance of how entirely the currents are governed by the winds off this coast.
NATIVE TALENT.
Our Swan River native had not obtained so much information of his wild countrymen to the northward as Miago. Still he had made the most of what he saw; and his visit to Timor crowned all. The facility and rapidity with which he could make a song about anyone whom he might choose as the subject of his poetical fancy, was very amusing; he must have equalled many of the Italian improvisatori. He had also got a very good idea of where the ship had been since leaving Swan River, in his head. The drawings of his countrymen on Depuch Island had greatly hurt his vanity, whilst they excited his emulation; and always afterwards, whenever he could get hold of paper or pencil, he was trying to excel them, which, from the improvement he made, I have no doubt he would have shortly done.
During the time he and his townsman Miago were with us, the following vocabulary was made; the words from Port Essington have been furnished by Mr. Earl.
COLUMN 1: ENGLISH.COLUMN 2: PORT ESSINGTON.COLUMN 3: SWAN RIVER.
Crow : - : Woordang.Emu : Angorok : Wadye.Eggs : Olajuk : Noorago.Shags : - : Mere.Kangaroo : Abbugi : Yewart.Female Kangaroo : - : Waroo.Wallaby: - : Wallyo.Bandicoot or rat : - : Condee.Very small kangaroo, larger than a wallaby : - : Goora.Ringtail possum : - : Gnoorah.Large possum : - : Goomal.--tailed possum : - : Mooroo.Native dog : Nukakoin : Dudah.The tail : - : Diar.Black swan : - : Coolecha.Duck : Cormoro : Oonanah.Mountain duck : - : Kooracha.Wombat : - : Koolemah.Magpie : - : Gooraba.Brown Chatterer : - : TelahoFishhawk : - : Undoorah.Eagle : - : Mulurah.Pigeon : - : Woodah.Quail : Windalo : Barrabberry.Tortoise : - : Booye, or Boorje.Mullett : - : Kalkurrie.Cobler : - : Corallia.Small blue bird : - : Deldillia.Snake : Ambeetj : Waggile.Sun : Muree : Murgah.Moon : Allee : Magee.Stars : Argadba : Nungarah.Clouds : - : Marah.Wind : Mailo : Curajahl.A bird : Aluk-aluk : Walta.Sand : Onak : Coo-yah.Head : Wokbok : Cuttah.Eyes : Ira : Mael.Nose : Anjinmul : Moolyah.Ears : Alaijar : Tungah.Mouth : Angaikbirig : Dah.Chin : - : Nungah.Face : Anmarura : Yoodah.Hair : Angbal : Cutap.Eyebrows : - : Mingart.Eyelashes : - : Cunbah.Teeth : Anjigi : Nalgo.Tongue : - : Dalang.Neck : - : Wardo.Throat : - : Daragert.Shoulders : - : Wundardah.Arms : - : Wango.Armpit : - : Nulyar.Collar bone : - : Chelee wundardah.Arm, upper : - : Maraga.Arm, lower : - : Aye yung.Wrist : - : Mardalliah.Thumb : Gamar : Marang-unga.First finger : - : Mara-mamal.Second finger : - : Mara-cudejip.Third finger : - : Mara-cudejip.Little finger : - : Mara-colun.Nails : - : Bere.Back : - : Goon goh.Loins : - : Moondo.Hips : - : Corlge.Buttocks : - : Mooro.Hip joint : - : -.Thigh : - : Dahwool.Knee : - : Bonnet.Leg : Adjirt-adjirt : Mattah.Hams : - : Yallee.Ankle : - : BilgahHeel : - : Geenang hooran.Foot : Ingalmulbil : Geenang coongoh.Instep : - : Geenang guerack.Toes : Rujut-bullal : Chenang ungah.Breast : - : Undoo.Belly : Angonidjark : Cabollo.Breast (woman) : - : Bebe.Navel : - : Bilye.Woman : Wari-comomo : Babelyah.Man : Iwala : Medah.
To run, stoop, hide, crouch, when about to rain : Kiddi kit mya warra.To go a long distance : Maran dugon bordeneuk.To cut up an animal of any kind for roasting : Dedayah killa, kuirderkan, ki ti kit.To cover up, to keep warm : Borga koorejalah kunah.For roasting : Ki ti kit.To cut up : Kurerkna.Give me some water : Yahago cabe.I'm very thirsty : Gangah.To carry the pickaninee : Colanganee wandung.Here carry the pickaninee (strong expression) : Colang maranga barang wandung.Give me some money : Anyah (or ana) yunagh, uddah.No money, go away : Neundoh barang gerangah.You have money : Anyah yungagah uddah.I go to sleep : Unyah begang undagah.To sneeze : Neyetta.A tree : Boono.Vegetation generally : Jibbah.Grass : Bobo.Long grass : Bobo wal-yur-deg.
NAMES OF SNAKES OF SWAN RIVER.
Waggile.Noo no.Si Dubat.Wang go.Bije modo.Cocongorun.Beara.Poolyar.Uur-nah.Iguana.Aunderah.
LIZARDS OF ABROLHOS, AS WELL AS SWAN RIVER.
Uundung.Jinerarah.Jeregarah.
When the weather became fine, we ran over to Gage Road.
ERECT BEACONS AT ROTTNEST.
October 11.
We again visited Rottnest in the ship (Lieutenant Roe the Surveyor-General, accompanying us) for the purpose of erecting beacons on the rocks lying off the points of Thomson's Bay, as marks for leading clear to the eastward of the Champion Rock. We were happy to have an opportunity of rendering this important service to the colonists, who acknowledged it in a very handsome manner.
Another object in crossing over to Rottnest was to avoid a north-west breeze which came on the next day; on the 15th we again returned to Gage Road.
ANECDOTES OF A WILD DOG.
Whilst we were at Swan River this time, a wish I had long entertained of procuring a pup of the wild breed of dogs* of the country, was gratified. It was a bitch, and left in the hollow of a tree by her mother who had just escaped. Knowing that they hunt kangaroos in packs, and have excellent noses, I was anxious to try if something useful might not be made out of a cross with the fox-hound; and with this view on my arrival in England, I gave her to my cousin, Mr. G. Lort Phillips; but she died in a fit soon after coming into his possession. Whilst with me she had two litters of pups by a pointer, three each time, the first at two years, and the second after an interval of ten months. At these times she was particularly savage, and would take the opportunity of paying off any old grudge she might have against those who had ill-used her--for she never forgot an injury--by stealing after them and snapping at their heels. She was very much attached to her young; one day I took her on shore and she kept catching birds to bring to them, supplying them, as an over-fond mother will do, with a superfluity of good things.
(*Footnote. I am informed by Colonel Owen Phillips, 56th B.N.I., formerly Assistant-Resident at Macassar, that he saw four wild dogs brought to Sir Stamford Raffles at Java, which bore a very strong resemblance to the animals mentioned in the text.)
I was very much interested in this animal, and took a great deal of pains to tame her, though I never fully succeeded. Her nose, as I have said, was excellent; and though quite mute she could hunt very well, as I found by repeated trials when out rabbit shooting. She would never leave a hole, working at it with her feet and teeth until she got at the inmate. These qualities confirmed me in my opinion that a cross with the fox-hound would produce a good result. As an illustration of her keenness of smell, I may mention that one day when we were lying in the Tamar river, she winded some sheep on the bank, and was instantly overboard and after them, swimming so rapidly that she had reached the land, and, though herself only the size of a large dog-fox, had pulled down a fine ram before a party could get on shore to prevent her. When they landed, instead of trying to make her escape, she slunk into the boat. This freak of hers cost me five pounds.
PECULIARITIES OF THE WILD DOG.
In cold weather her coat was always best, and the brush on her tail most perfect. She was of a light tan colour, with a little white on the tip of the tail, and a few black hairs sprinkled in the brush; there was a little black also about her face. Her step was light and stealthy; and in her eye meekness and cunning were curiously blended. Though very shy of man, when once taken up in the arms she lay as quiet as a cat; but with all dogs she was very quarrelsome, fighting savagely with a greyhound bitch I had on board, and several times nearly killing a small dog. It was always difficult to catch her, as she would generally manage to escape either between the legs or by springing over the shoulders, except when we were going on shore; then she would allow herself very quietly to be put into the boat; but on our return the difficulty was how to get her off, and it became necessary to pounce upon her suddenly. She was never heard to bark, the only noise she ever made being the dismal howl peculiar to her breed, and this only when tied up, which consequently, for the sake of peace, was but of short duration, and always had to be done with a chain, as she would instantly bite through a rope. Her mischievous propensity was remarkable, as she often stole into the officers' cabin and pulled books down from the shelves, tearing the backs off and then destroying the leaves. As an instance of her sure-footedness and activity I may mention that I have seen her leap twice her own height from the stem of the midship boat, in endeavouring to seize fowls or meat that was hung on the mainstay, always alighting on the point she sprang from. At other times she would attempt to crawl up it like a cat, in order to steal what was there. Her proneness to thieving was very great; I have frequently seen her eating stolen things when she would refuse what was offered her; it was never safe to take her near poultry.
GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.
Whilst in this locality I may take the opportunity of introducing a few notes on the geological formation of the country in the neighbourhood of Swan River, furnished by Mr. Bynoe:
The most remarkable feature is the absence or scantiness of the secondary and transition rocks; all the tertiary appears to be of the newest kind, and to lie in juxtaposition with the primary. This character forms the sandy margin from the Darling Range, or chain of granite hills, nearly 2000 feet high to the sea, in the immediate vicinity of which the sand is bounded by a calcareous form of limestone, and, where jutting into the sea and forming perpendicular or overhanging cliffs, the faces are thrown into a beautiful kind of fretwork (See volume 1) of more compactness than the surrounding mass. In most places about the neighbourhood of Fremantle, shells are found of the existing species along the coast, firmly impacted in its substance, particularly a large species of buccinum, as well as the strombus. This calcareous formation has been traced as far north as Shark's Bay; it crosses over to the Abrolhos Group, there frequently lying over a coral formation, and forming in many places cavities of a cylindrical figure, of some few feet in depth. Beds of clays, varying in quality and colour, are to be met with on sandy margins, containing particles of gypsum.
On the Darling Range is found a red cellular structure capping the granite, assuming all the appearance of having been subjected to fire; it extends also in the low country about that neighbourhood.
Slate of a primitive character is found on the Canning River. The mountain chain or Darling Range runs nearly in the direction of north and south. On the eastern side of it, close to the base, are several groups of isolated conical hills, from a half to one mile apart, extending from the William River to the Tugee District, a distance of about one hundred and twenty miles, bearing on their summits strong evidences of ignition. The country farther on to the eastward falls into sandy plains, similar to those on the western side, and intersected by watercourses; during the summer, pools remain, and at that time become remarkably salt. On the mountains, as well as on the plains, scattered pebbles in patches are to be met with; they appear to contain iron, being highly magnetic.
SAIL FROM SWAN RIVER.
From the very debilitated state of some of the crew, from dysenteric affections contracted at Timor, we were not able to leave Swan River before the 25th of October. At noon on the 28th, Cape Naturaliste bore South 80 degrees East three miles; according to our observations it was in latitude 33 degrees 31 minutes 45 seconds South four miles further south than it is placed in the charts, though in longitude (0 degrees 47 minutes 30 seconds West of Swan River) it appeared pretty correct. Some reefs have been reported three or four miles off the north-east side of it: but we could see nothing of them, and had a depth of 25 and 26 fathoms. We got soundings of 23 and 25 fathoms in passing along a few miles from the coast towards Cape Leeuwin, in the neighbourhood of which we looked in vain for a rock called the Rambler, that had been supposed to be about twelve miles south-west of a remarkable white patch close to the northward of the Cape, the locality of which it always serves to show. Twenty miles west of Cape Leeuwin the depth was 47 fathoms.
Passing along the south coast we found the white-topped rocks near Cape Chatham to be in longitude 0 degrees 29 minutes 30 seconds East of Swan River. They are not only remarkable in themselves, but like the Eclipse Islands, are admirably situated for showing a ship's position when in with the coast.