CHAP. VI.

"La loi dans tout doit etre universelle,"Le mortels quels qu'ils soient egaux devant elle."

"The law in all things ought to be universal: Men of all descriptions are equal in its eyes."

On the opposite side were four angels sounding trumpets, with this inscription:

"Hold in your remembrance these sacred words, which are the guarantee of your decrees;—The nation, the law, and the king. The nation is yourselves—the law is your own, for it is your will—and the king is the guardian of the law."

On the front, next to the Seine, was the figure of Liberty, dispersing the surrounding clouds, with attributes of Agriculture, and Abundance; and the Genius of France hovering in the air, and pointing to the wordConstitution.

On the front, facing the throne, were warriors pronouncing the federal oath,viz.

"We swear to remain ever faithful to thenation, thelaw, and theking: to maintain, with all our power, the constitution decreed by the national assembly, and accepted by the king: to protect, according to the law, the surety of persons and property, the circulation of corn and provisions within the realm, the levying of public contributions, under whatever form they may exist; and to continue united to all the French by the indissoluble ties of brotherhood."

At three the signal was made for conducting theoriflamme, or sacred royal standard, with the banners of the eighty-three departments, to the altar to receive the benediction.

Upon the same signal the queen, (with her attendants) made her appearance in a partitioned place immediately behind the king's chair, having the dauphin with her, whom she placed on her knee: she was well received, and the dauphin much applauded. She was most becomingly dressed; her cap decorated with pearls, a pearl necklace, and pearl ear-rings.

As soon as she was seated, the king entered and took his chair of state, which was fixed upon a line with a lesser chair, upon which the president of the national assembly sat. From the top of the king's state chair, the crown had been removed, and the cap of liberty substituted in its place. He was superbly dressed in a rich suit of gold tissue, and appeared to be in good spirits. He directed his conversation to the president, and it drew forth continual bursts of applause.

At forty minutes after three the conclusion of the ceremony of consecrating the banners was announced, by a heavy discharge of the artillery, and the sound of martial music.

The banners having rejoined their several stations, the great body of the national guards, who hitherto had lined the extreme of the inner circle, now formed on each side a half circle, from the foot of the pavilion steps to the altar; the ensigns of each of the sixty of Paris districts, all of which were extremely beautiful, and various in their devices, being marched first up to the front of the pavilion, and saluting as they passed it.

The bishop of Autun, as grand Almoner, assisted by sixty deputy Almoners, elected by sixty districts of Paris, then celebrated mass, to the sound of the musical instruments.

Some delay took place in the expectation that the king would advance to the altar, and there take the civic oath. But his majesty remained on the throne.

M. de la Fayette then gave the signal for the national deputies to come forward and take the oath. He ascended the altar; and on the sound of the trumpet, extending his right hand, and looking steadfastly at the altar while the oath was reading, pronounced the words,—"I swear it." Which the national guards all repeated after him, turning round their hats on the points of their bayonets.

The discharge of a bomb was the signal.

Mons. Bonnay, the president of the national assembly, next rose from his seat, and advancing to the front of the covered gallery, in which the members of the national assembly and the civil bodies were seated, fixed his eyes on the altar, extended his right arm, and as the oath was repeating, pronounced with great dignity, "I swear it:" followed in like manner by the legislative, and the deputies of the civil and municipal bodies.

At forty-five minutes past four the king rose; and, waiting till every thing was silent, read very audibly, and with an excellent majesty of manner, theOATH[1]assigned to him; extended his arm, looked steadfastly at the altar, and pronunced, "I swear it."

Footnote 1: "I swear to be faithful to the Nation, the Law, and the King, and to maintain the Constitution to the utmost of my power, as decreed by the National Assembly, and confirmed by the King."

The acclamations of the people, shouting "Long liveLouis,our Country, and Constitution!"—the clattering of sixty thousand swords, the waving of one hundred and forty-three banners and ensigns, and the discharge of an immense line of artillery, excited feelings which words cannot express, and which the human imagination, unaided by a view of the grand and glorious scene, can form no adequate conception of. The awful and unbroken stillness maintained during the administration of the oaths, rendered the acclamations which followed more forcible than they would otherwise have been.

Te Deumwas then sung by a choir of more than three hundred voices, accompanied by three hundred drums, and all the military musical instruments.

The ceremony being over, the king went away almost immediately.

The procession moved off in the order in which it entered.

The people walked home as they came, without crowding; and in little more than an hour the place was cleared.

A repast for the deputies was served up at theChateau de la Muette. Each battalion of Parisian guards undertook to be entertainers of their provincial brethren, who all partook of the repast with the utmost order.

Thirty thousand persons dined in the gardens, and wine and provisions were distributed to more than one hundred thousand. The people were so temperate, that I cannot learn that any of the troops were seen at night reeling about the streets, in a state of intoxication.

The day concluded with dances in all places near theChamp de Mars. In the evening a superb fire-work was exhibited in the square of theHotel de Ville; and at night there was a general illumination.

This is the most accurate account that I have been able to obtain of the proceedings of the king and the people.

As it is thought there were more people collected together upon this occasion then ever met at one time and place in the world, and as some people are desirous of having a particular description of the transactions of the day; it is hoped the reader will excuse the author for being more than usually copious in the incidents treated of throughout this chapter.

Inquiry is made whether theDoctorhad Recommendations, &c.—His Advice to Gentlemen and Ladies.—He is visited by a Physician to the Court of Spain.—Views the Place where the Bastille stood.—How that Place was taken, and the Governor and other Officers executed.

Paris, July 17.

This morning the gentleman who had put up at the hotel with me, asked if I had any letters of recommendation from any gentlemen in London, to any in Paris? I told him I had not: that I had had the offer of some, but for the want of time did not go to receive them: That as I could not tarry long, and had money enough to bear my expences, I believed thatthatwould be recommendation enough, if I behaved well. I had though, by the way, a general recommendation from some gentlemen of my acquaintance, but it was not directed to any body in particular in Paris; and I also had a diploma in my pocket, which was a sufficient recommendation, in any quarter of the globe; but I did not let the inquirer know I had any such thing with me. He seemed to think I would cut but a poor figure without recommendations; but as it happened I had no need of shewing any—though I would not advise any gentleman or lady to travel without; because a recommendation may be of great service sometimes, and especially in a time of war.

At about nine this morning, I was visited by M. Iberti,Docteur en Médecine, and physician to the Court of Spain. He informed me that he had heard that an English physician had arrived, and that he was come to tell me, that if he could be of any service to me any way, he should be happy in doing of it. I thanked him for his kindness, and told him that I wanted to get an account of the practice of the hospitals, and with that an account of the operation of medicines in France:

That for more than sixteen years I had been preparing for publication, a New Dispensatory, which will contain;

1. Themeteria medica.

2. The operation of medicines.

3. The art and science of pharmacy.

4. The composition of medicines.

5. An index of diseases, and their remedies; with,

6. The manual operations and remedies used in surgery.

That the work would be adorned with cuts of the chymical and surgical instruments, and also with chymical characters and botanical figures:

That I had travelled in Great Britain and America, to obtain knowledge; and was come to Paris for the same purpose.—

Said he, I am employed by the court of Spain on the same business, and have travelled through England, Scotland, and Ireland; and am come here to collect all the knowledge I possibly can. He gave me a description of the state and condition of the hospitals in Paris; and told me where I could obtain the publications I wanted, which are entirely new, and had not reached London. He also advised me to view the hospitals, and to go to Cherenton and see the anatomical productions there, which he said exceeded every thing of the kind in the world.

He visited me three times, and brought a French physician to see me once.

I visited M. Iberti once, and he gave me a book he had published, entitled,Observations Generales sur les Hopitauz; suivies d'un Projeett d'Hospital. In consequence of which the Royal Academy of Arts and Sciences at Paris had honoured him with amedal, in token that his works were highly applauded. He also told me that he had the use of the king's library.

I told him that I would endeavour to make him a present of a New Dispensatory, if he would let me know where I could send one that would get to him: he thanked me, and desired I would send one to the Spanish Ambassador in Great Britain, with whom he said he was well acquainted.

The Spanish physician's advice did me infinite service: I followed his direction, and obtained what I went after.

Among the many curiosities that I viewed this day was the ground where the Bastille stood, which had been a horrible place of punishment for about 400 years. I found this prison almost demolished, though a few of the dungeons remained: but the people were taking down the arches, walls, &c. An amazing quantity of stone had been carried from this disagreeable prison, and piled up in a street that environs the city, besides those at theChamp de Mars.

Before this prison was demolished it was surrounded by a ditch, and had no entrance to it but by a draw-bridge.

On the 6th of July, 1789, the National Assembly having established a committee of finances, which consisted of 64 members, and appointed M. Necker, president; the king afterwards appointed Baron de Breteuil, president, in the room of M. Necker; and having removed several other officers, the indignation of the populace was raised, who armed themselves, and were joined by the French guards. A slight skirmish ensued in thePlace de Louis XV.in which two was killed, and two wounded, which belonged to the Duc de Choiseu's regiment of dragoons.

On the 8th the populace forced the convent of St. Lazare, in which was found a quantity of corn, arms, ammunition, &c. A general consternation prevailed; the shops were shut, and business was at a stand.

On the 14th the hospital of invalids surrendered to about 20,000 citizens, headed by the French guards: About 4,000 troops, 52,000 stands of arms, besides cannon, ammunition, &c. were taken. In the evening about 10 or 12,000 men, with two pieces of cannon, demanded the ammunition deposited in the Bastille. The governor held out a white flag, and opened one of the gates, through which about forty citizens and soldiers entered: he immediately drew up the bridge, and his troops massacred those that had entered. This breach of faith enraged the populace: a battle ensued, and the Bastille was taken in about three hours. The governor, the jailor, chief gunner, and two others were carried prisoners to the Hotel de Ville, where they were tried and executed, by being shot, and afterwards beheaded. M. de Flesselles, the first municipal officer of Paris, underwent the same fate, on being suspected of betraying the citizens. Their heads were carried in triumph through the streets of the city. In taking the Bastille about 300 were killed, besides those the governor massacred. The prisoners were liberated; and an old man, who had been in a dungeon thirty years, fell down when he came out, by reason of the operation the light had upon him.

Those that took the Bastille are honoured with a particular mark in their apparel, to distinguish them from other people.

TheDoctorgoes to theChamp de Mars—an Air Balloon descends on his Head.—He dines at a Grand Hotel, where commencesun tête à têtewith a fine Lady.—He goes to the Italian Opera.

Paris, July 18.

This morning, being Sunday, I sent my servant for a coach to carry me to theChamp de Mars; but he returned without any, with this intelligence from the coachman,viz.that they were all forbid to move a coach that day, by reason of the great multitude of people that was to convene; as it was supposed, that many would be crushed to death if they were allowed to ride in coaches. The nobility, gentry, and commonalty, were therefore all obliged to walk to theChamp de Mars; at which place I took a seat, a little to the left of the National Assembly, where I had a fine prospect. There was the greatest multitude of people collected that I ever saw at one time, and they behaved with decency and good order. The Marquis de la Fayette rode at the head of the army, and was frequently honoured with huzzas, loud acclamations, and other demonstrations of joy. Among the bands of music was a very large drum, that seemed to make the earth tremble when it was beat.

I took a seat about ten, and tarried about five hours. About half past one, an air balloon, of a large magnitude, ascended to the southward of theChamp de Mars. It was conducted by a great number of men, who held its lines, over the place where I was sitting. It descended on our heads, and the French cried,En bas, en bas, Monsieur: Down, down, Sir. I bowed myself almost to the ground, to prevent being hurt; but arose, and pushed the balloon upwards with my hand: It ascended, and went to the northward; but descended again several times, and afterwards passed to the southward by the National Assembly, almost in a horizontal direction. When it had got at a little distance from theChamp de Mars, the inflammable air took fire, and the balloon split, with a report something like that of a cannon. It was said that several persons were considerably burnt when the balloon burst. I understood the next day, that some of the French supposed, that a great blessing will follow those upon whom the balloon descended.

After I had left theChamp de Mars, I dined at a grand hotel, where thirty-two tables were spread in one room. At this place a French lady viewed me with anamorous eye; and I perceived by some of hermotions, after I had dined, that she had an inclination tolead me into temptation: but I was soon off with myself, and was therebydelivered from evil.

In the evening I went to theItalian opera, where sixty-two persons appeared on the stage at the first view. The vocal and instrumental music was excellent, and the other performances very entertaining.

TheDoctorviews three Hospitals, and the largest Cathedral in the Kingdom.—An Account of the Foundling Hospital. He goes toVersailles—views the King and Queen's Palaces, returns toParis,and sees the Dauphin of France.

Paris, July 19.

This morning I viewed the grand hospital, the lying-in hospital, the foundling hospital, and the greatest cathedral in the kingdom, calledL'Eglise de Notre Dame. It is a grand Gothic structure, has a very fine choir, altar, &c. and many paintings, some of which represent the miracles and resurrection of Christ.

There were 17,500 children belonging to the foundling hospital, above 7,000 of which had been taken in within the compass of a year. They were kept very clean, and I did not hear a child cry amongst the whole number.

The matron, or governess of the hospital, shewed me their grand stores of linen and garments for the children, which was worth beholding.

This hospital is a most excellent institution: People of all kinds, and from all countries, are allowed to bring their children into it; and no questions are asked; only the person that leaves the child is asked if the child has been christened. If that has not been done, they get it done at the hospital. Those that bring their children put a ribbon round their necks, or mark them with something whereby they may be known in some future time, and they are permitted to take them away when they please.

Those that remain in the hospitals, are put out to learn trades, when they are old enough;—and sums of money are given to those who take them.

I was told that a young woman from Great Britain had just lain in at the lying-in hospital, and had put her child into the foundling hospital. Perhaps she may pass for avirginagain, on her arrival in England!

This hospital must be of great utility to the people, because it relieves the poor, and prevents murder; as women have not the temptation to kill their children through fear of not having them supported; and also, because it produces a great number of good members of society.

After I had viewed the hospitals, I made a purchase of two books, which contained all I was in pursuit after. I also viewed the house where Voltaire the famous French poet died.

The same day I went in a coach with my servant to Versailles, which is about twelve miles from Paris. We arrived there about noon; and I viewed the king and queen's palaces, which are said to be the richest in the world, or at least, the most beautiful and magnificent in Europe. I also viewed the royal chapel and two of the royal theatres, and the king's gardens planted with tropical and other trees, plants, and herbs. The buildings are adorned and beautified with gold, and many splendid ornaments, and there are a great number of statues, and elegant paintings; all of which afford a very beautiful prospect.

Versailles is a pleasant place, and there are about 60,000 inhabitants in the town. I dined after I had viewed the curiosities, and returned to Paris in the evening, where I saw the Dauphin of France, attended by a monk.

Versailles is said to be the dearest place for entertainment that there is in France, owing to the great number of nobility and gentry that resort there: Therefore ought every traveller to be well provided with money when he goes to see that place.

Views two Hospitals, the Royal Observatory, and sundry other Magnificent Buildings.—Goes to the French Theatre, &c.—A Caution against going into bad Company.

Paris, July 20.

This day I viewed the charity hospital, and the hospital for invalids. The latter is a large and elegant building, in which there is a chapel, that is said to cover as much ground as the cathedral of St. Paul's, in London. The floors of the domes are made of fine marble, and each dome is dedicated to some saint, whose statue is placed in a niche, or hallow. There are some of the finest paintings in this chapel that I ever saw; and the hospital commonly contains about 200 officers, and 3,000 soldiers.

Afterwards I viewed the house of Bourbonne, and the royal observatory, whereastronomical observationsare taken. I looked through the telescopes, and surveyed the mathematical instruments. I saw an account of the late observations, and perceived that the French are very accurate in performances of that kind: but I did not give them to understand that I was a professor of the science.

I also viewed a great church, calledJamies, which has been near twenty years in building, and is not yet wholly finished. In this church there are some of the largest and finest pillars that I ever beheld.

Afterwards I took a survey of the buildings and gardens which belong to the king's eldest brother; and went to the French theatre and saw the grand performances there. After the play was over, on returning to my lodgings, I was seized on the way by a very gay young lady, who accosted me with—J' aime vous, Monsieur.—Voulez vous venir avec moi?—My answer was in the negative. I was obliged to break her hold, and be off with myself. "Perhaps, said I, if I go with you, I may be robbed and murdered: it is best for me to keep out of the fire whilst it is in my power."

I had heard but a few days before of a man that was so simple as to accept of the invitation of two lewd women, who took him to their lodgings; but before morning he was robbed, not only of his watch and money, but of his clothes, and turned out naked into the street by some whore-mongers that frequented the house. This shews how dangerous it is to venture one's-self amongst strangers, and especially those of this sort. It is safest for every one, either at home or abroad, to shun all such kind of company, as well as the company of thieves, drunkards, gamesters, and those that use bad language: for the keeping of bad company has been the destruction of thousands; and especially the greatest mischief has been done among unthinkingyouth: their inexperience, and unsuspecting dispositions, making them the fit subjects for villainy to work upon.

Contemplations, Philosophical and Moral, on the State and Condition of the Living and the Dead, which the Author indulges at the Abbey of St.Denis,where the Kings of France are buried.

St. Denis, July 21,At half past one, P. M.

I am now standing in the abbey of St. Denis, which is about six miles from Paris, and have been told that all the kings of France, excepting Lewis XVI. are buried here, and that the house of Bourbon lie under my feet.—Alas! said I, here is the end of those mighty monarchs, that once ruled the kingdom, commanded armies, fought battles, obtained victories, collected riches, and enjoyed the honours, the profits and the pleasures of this perishing world.—Here they lie silent! and their dominion, strength, and power, are wholly gone!—Their bodies are returned to the elements out of which they were formed,viz.to the earth, air, fire, and water. Alas! continued I, the present king of France, with all the mighty kings and princes on the globe, together, with the rest of the human race, must soon pass through this change! And not only the human race, but the birds, beasts and fishes, trees, plants, and herbs; even every thing that hath life must be dissolved, and return to the elements,viz.Earth to earth, air to air, fire to fire, and water to water; for it is thedecreeof theDivine Artificer, who is the former of our bodies, and the father of our spirits, that all these things shallonce die!—And, none of the mighty kings, or learned physicians, can hinder themselves or others, from experiencing this awful change.

Moreover, I had further contemplations upon the state of the living and the condition of the dead. I considered the mutability of our bodies; that they are continually changing; that they increase in proportion to the quantity of nutrition which they receive from meat, drink, the circumambient air, &c. or, decrease in proportion to a want of nourishment from those things.

That they are continually flying off by insensible perspiration and other evacuations, and would soon come to a dissolution, if not nourished by the vegetable and animal productions.

That the bodies we had seven years ago, are totally dissolved by those evacuations; and from hence we have new flesh, new bones, new skin, new hair, new nails, &c. formed out of the four elements.

That the time we have lived, is past and gone; and, that the time we are to live is not yet come, so that we only live at the present time.

That death is only a change from this state to another,—as our bodies return again to the elements, and our spirits to Him that gave them: that the dead, being at rest, are totally free from the cares, troubles, and vexations of a mortal life. The king is not afraid of losing his kingdom, nor the beggar of perishing with hunger.

I beg leave to conclude this chapter with the following reflections, which will not, I hope, detract from their solemnity, because cast in apoeticalmould.

Short is our passage thro' this nether world,For soon by death we from the stage are hurl'd.The tender infants in their lovely bloom,Are often hurry'd to the silent tomb!Adults grown up, nay some of ev'ry age,By cruel death are taken from the stage;The high, the low, the rich, the poor, the small,By the greatking of terrorssoon must fall.The richest man, (it cannot be deny'd)Who with good things most amply is supply'd;Soon, too, he feels th' impartial stroke of death,Down falls his body, and off flies his breath:But where it goes, or how far it doth fly,No mortal man can tell below the sky.The elements that in the body are,Return to those from whence they taken were.Thus, dust to dust, and air to air, we find,And heat to heat, are soon again combin'd,Water to water soon again doth flow,And the whole mass to dissolution go!Await, O man! thy doom; for 'tis the fateOf ev'ry creature in this mortal state:Yet shall th' immortal spark ascend on high,Of righteous ones whoin theLORDdo die.Thus whilst their bodies are behind at rest,Their pious souls with happiness are blest.----Again.——O happy state in which the dead are cast!Their pain is gone and all their trouble's past.When roaring winds bring up the thick'ned cloud,And the deep thunder rumbles out aloud;When the earth quakes, when lofty cities fall,When places sink, and can't be found at all;When inundations o'er the land arise,And burning mountains burst towards the skies;When famine and the pestilence doth rage,And wicked nations in a war engage;When blood and carnage greatly doth expand,And desolation overspreads the land,And boist'rous tempests rage upon the sea;Then are theDeadfrom danger wholly free.They're not afraid of being hurt, or slain,Like wretched mortals who alive remain.Let not the living then at Death repine,Since it was made by God anact divine,To raise theJust—thehusband,child, andwife,From scenes of trouble to a better life!

Await, O man! thy doom; for 'tis the fateOf ev'ry creature in this mortal state:Yet shall th' immortal spark ascend on high,Of righteous ones whoin theLORDdo die.Thus whilst their bodies are behind at rest,Their pious souls with happiness are blest.

----Again.——

O happy state in which the dead are cast!Their pain is gone and all their trouble's past.When roaring winds bring up the thick'ned cloud,And the deep thunder rumbles out aloud;When the earth quakes, when lofty cities fall,When places sink, and can't be found at all;When inundations o'er the land arise,And burning mountains burst towards the skies;When famine and the pestilence doth rage,And wicked nations in a war engage;When blood and carnage greatly doth expand,And desolation overspreads the land,And boist'rous tempests rage upon the sea;Then are theDeadfrom danger wholly free.They're not afraid of being hurt, or slain,Like wretched mortals who alive remain.Let not the living then at Death repine,Since it was made by God anact divine,To raise theJust—thehusband,child, andwife,From scenes of trouble to a better life!

Of the Curiosities in the Abbey of St. Denis.—TheDoctorviews the King's Treasure.—Goes to the Italian Theatre.—Observations on the Actors, &c.

Whilst I was at the abbey of St. Denis, I viewed many elegant statues and paintings, and the font, or baptismal bason, out of which the kings of France had been christened. Afterwards I was admitted by a monk into the king's treasure, where I saw the crowns of the kings and queens of France, with many golden vessels and splendid ornaments.

I dined at a hotel in St. Denis, and returned to Paris; but in my rout I ascended a hill which commands a sight of the city, and affords a fine prospect. On this hill there is a great number of wind-mills, dwelling-houses, and other buildings. In the evening I went to the Italian theatre, where I was very well entertained with performances of different kinds. Their artificial thunder and lightning, was alarming; as the claps were very loud and sudden, and the flashes appeared as natural as those from the clouds.

The theatres in Paris are very large. They are opened at five o'clock, and the performances begin at six, and end at nine,—which is much better then to keep people till almost midnight; because they have time to return to their dwellings in season.

I have often thought that the actors are deficient in one thing; that is, in their not apprising the spectators of the subject before the play begins; and whether it is to be a tragedy or a comedy, and who or what it is to be in imitation of; and whether it is to represent a battle, a duel, or a courtship, &c. for the entering upon these things without any previous notice, is like a divine's preaching without naming his text, or letting his auditors know what subject he is about to discourse upon.

It is true, indeed, that the actors often send forth publications, to let the people know what is to be represented such and such evenings; but I do not think that more than one person in twenty that attends the plays ever reads the publications; and those that do, are put to the trouble of carrying them to the theatres, and of tracing them through the evening, or they will not know before-hand what play is to be acted next.

Views the Anatomical Productions atCherenton.A Description of the Vineyards.—The People meet where the Bastille stood, and pray for the Souls of them that were slain in taking that Place. Their Form of Prayer.—Surveys the King's Physical Gardens.

Paris, July 22.

This morning I went to Cherenton, which is two leagues from Paris, and viewed a great number of skeletons, not only of human bodies, but of birds, beasts, and fishes; and I must join in opinion with the Spanish physician,viz. that they exceed every thing of the kind in the world, or at least that I ever saw or heard of. Here are skeletons of infants and adults, mounted upon the skeletons of horses, of different sizes; some with the bones only, and some with the veins and arteries, muscles, &c. In short every part of the human machine is exposed to the view of the spectator. The various parts of the body are also preserved in spirits, and anatomy is demonstrated in all its branches in the best manner; which must be of excellent use to young students.

As I was returning to Paris, I viewed a number of vineyards which are cultivated for the purpose of raising grapes. The vines in general were planted about two feet apart, and are hoed much like the maze, or Indian corn, in America. In some places they have rows of potatoes between the vines, but at such places they are planted more than two feet apart; and for want of knowledge in philosophy, many hill their potatoes too high, which hinders their growth, by obstructing the rays of the sun from heating their roots.

The vines run upon poles, that are about four or five feet high; and after the grapes are gathered in the fall, the vines are cut down close to the ground, and from the roots another set arises, which bear grapes the next year. It appears to me that such vines would grow in many parts of America, if they were properly cultivated.

On entering into Paris, I passed by the place where the Bastille stood; and, behold! a number of the priests, with a great multitude of people, had met together to pray for the souls of them that had been slain, when the Bastille was taken on the 14th of July, 1789. I was told, that this was the first time that the priests and the people had met to pray on that occasion since the battle happened.

The catholics have various forms of prayer, which they make use of when they pray for the dead. The one for brethren, relations, and benefactors, runs thus:

"O God, the giver of pardon, and lover of the salvation of man, we beseech thy clemency in behalf of our brethren, relations, and benefactors, who departed this life; that by the intercession of the Blessed VirginMary, and of all thy saints, thou wouldest receive them into the joys of thy eternal kingdom: through our Lord Jesus Christ,Amen."

At the end of each form, the following is used: "Eternal rest give to them, O Lord; and let perpetual light shine upon them."

After I had left the place where the people were praying, I walked through the king's physical gardens, where there are about seven thousand different kinds of vegetables, consisting of trees, plants and herbs, collected from the four quarters of the globe, that can possibly be made to grow in Paris. I have been informed, that this botanical garden, and a museum of natural curiosities, which may be seen every Wednesday and Friday in the afternoon, costs the king 72,000 livresper annum.

In these gardens there is a mount, which I ascended by a path that runs round it, in a spiratic course. At the top of this hill I had a fine prospect, not only of the gardens, but of the city.

I observed as I passed through the gardens, that the vegetables were distinguished from one another by Latin inscriptions, ascalamusaromaticus,sambucus,rhabarbarum, &c.

A Description ofParis.—Of the RiverSeine.—Of the Climate.—Dress,—Anecdote of a Frenchman.—French Courtship, and the Fondness of the Ladies, &c.

Paris, the capital of France, is situated in lat. 48 deg. 50 min. north; and long. 2 deg. 10 min. east of the royal observatory at Greenwich; and is called one of the grandest and most beautiful cities in Europe. It is built in a circular form, and was about eighteen miles in circumference, 'till of late it has been made much larger by the augmentation of their buildings, and the erection of a new wall, which encompasses the old one at a great distance. The city is walled in to prevent smuggling, sentries being placed at the gates, where duties are paid, &c. The houses in this city are from six to eight stories high in general, built chiefly of hewn stone, which are of a lightish colour. These stories are much higher than ours in London. The buildings are very magnificent; and the city is amazingly populous.

It contains upwards of 22,000 houses,—979 streets,—52 parishes,—130 convents,—28 hospitals,—and about 800,000 people.

The streets of this city are narrow; and being paved to the sides of the houses, with stones much like those in the middle of the streets in London, makes the walking inconvenient, and exposes travellers to the danger of being hurt by the carriages.

It is a pity that the streets of Paris, and many other cities, had not been laid out at right angles, at proper distances, and at convenient breadths, when the places were first built.

Paris is divided almost into equal parts by the river Seine, which did not appear to me to be so large as the river Thames. There is a number of bridges over the Seine, and several of them have buildings on either side, which form a complete street. This river rises in Burgundy, and running through Paris, empties itself into the English Channel, between Havre-de-Grace and Honfleur.

The tides are not strong enough to bring heavy vessels up to Paris. The people are obliged to make use of long barges, and to tow them up with horses. There are some water-mills erected on this river, for the purpose of grinding grain, &c.

The air is much clearer at Paris than it is at London; and the country is healthy: the climate in the south of France is called the wholesomest in Europe. It is something remarkable that I did not see one funeral all the time I was in France; which made me suppose that they buried their dead in the night: but this, on enquiry, I found not to be the practice.

The inhabitants of Paris are polite, gay and luxurious; many of them very handsome. The amusements of the city are pleasing, and the people enjoy their pleasures at a cheap rate, as foreigners contribute much towards the support of their theatres, hotels, &c.

The people in France do not seem to be much given to intemperance; and I was told, that when the farmers and mechanics have received their wages, they spend them at home in their families, instead of being drunk at ale-houses; a thing too common in England. I was also told, that the French do not use so much corrupt and abominable language as the English and Irish do.

The ladies have a much handsomer head dress than the English; they do not wear stays, neither do they make many of their gowns so long as to draw on the ground, which is a waste, and a dirty indecent fashion. The gentlemen dress much as we do in London, only they sometimes wear cloaks, and the collars of their coats are not quite so high as ours. I have sometimes wondered that cloaks are not more in fashion in London.

The French are very merry and cheerful; and their light and airy turn makes them patient in times of adversity; they have also the just reputation of being witty; and it has been said, that they are sometimes too cunning for the English. This brings to my mind the following anecdote,viz.A Frenchman, who had supped and lodged at an inn kept by an Englishman, demanded his reckoning: the landlord made out a bill of ten shillings, which the Frenchman paid, thinking in the mean time that his host was something extravagant in his demands, and was therefore resolved to beupwith him. The landlord soon complained that he was very much troubled with rats. "Vell," said the Frenchman, "for von bouteille of vin, I vill tell how you may get rid of dem all." The landlord gave the wine. "Vell," said the Frenchman, "do you make out a bill, and charge dem rats ten shillings a-piece for every night da have lodged in your house, and I vill be bound da vill all go off, and never trouble you any more."

I shall here give a slight specimen of theFrench courtship, which a gentleman repeated to me; and if the gentlemen in England, Scotland, Ireland, America, or elsewhere, shall see fit to follow the same mode of address to the ladies, I shall have no objection, providing they address themselves to proper persons.

"Madame,

"Upon the consideration of the good reputation you bear in the nation, I find an inclination to offer you my salutation; and, upon my salvation, if this my declaration finds your acceptation, it will cause an obligation that will be of long continuation, even from generation to generation."

The ladies in France are very amorous, and those that are married are not much troubled with their husbands being jealous of them, let them be honest or dishonest: and you may court a Frenchman's wife before his face, and he will not be jealous of you, as I was informed. Great numbers of the lewd women are said to be licensed by authority, to keep public houses for the entertainment of persons of that character.

The disease that is commonly spread by such people is rather upon the decline at Paris, it is said; owing to the frequent use of different kinds of remedies, as preventatives, &c.

The Length, Breadth, Boundaries, Inhabitants, New Divisions, Mountains, Rivers, Soil, Produce, Manufactories, Commerce, Religion, and Laws ofFrance.

The kingdom of France is about six hundred and twenty-two miles in length from north to south, and six hundred and twenty in breadth from east to west: It is bounded—Easterly on Germany, Switzerland, Savoy, and Piedmont—Southerly on the Mediterranean sea, and the Pyrenean mountains, which separate it from Spain—Westerly on the Bay of Biscay—Northerly on the English channel—and North-easterly on the Spanish Netherlands. It contains near 26,9507/12square leagues—25,000,000 of inhabitants—Eighteen arch-bishoprics—167,000 clergymen—28 universities—25 academies—750 great convents of monks—200 of nuns—10,000 of a smaller kind—and upwards of 200,000 of monks and nuns.

I understand that the National Assembly have divided the kingdom into eighty grand divisions, or counties, of eighteen leagues in length, and as many in breadth; and each grand division into nine commonalities, that are six leagues square; and also each commonality into nine cantons, of two leagues in length, and two in breadth.

Hence there are eighty grand divisions, seven hundred and twenty commonalities, and 6480 cantons in the kingdom.

The mountains in France are, the Alps—the Pyrenees—the Vague—Mount Jura—the Convennes—and Mount Dor.

The chief rivers are, the Rhone—the Garoune—the Loire—the Seine—the Somme—and the Ardour.

The climate is mild and healthy, as has already been observed; and the soil fruitful, though not equal to Great Britain for corn: but their fruits are more numerous, and of a higher flavour than ours, by reason of their growing in a more southern country. They have the largest plumbs I ever saw: but their beans, peas, and strawberries were small. In the northern provinces they have good cider and perry; and in the southern the best of wines. In the province of Languedoc they raise silk and olive oil.

France does not abound in coal, which obliges the people to raise and burn wood, and sometimes turf. There are many excellent forests between Paris and Calais, and some beds of turf. In Paris they have the largest magazines of wood that I ever saw.

The animals in France are of the same kinds of those in England; only they have some wolves, as I was informed.

The French manufacture silks, woollens, velvets, brocades, alamodes, lawns, laces, cambrics, tapestry, glass, hardware, war-like implements, paper, hats, thread, toys, &c. but I do not think their manufacturies are equal to those of England in all respects.

France carries on the greatest foreign trade of any kingdom in the world, except Great Britain; and the inland trade is very large, by the way of their navigable rivers, canals, &c. One of the latter is said to be one hundred miles in length, and opens a communication between the ocean and the Mediterranean; it is carried over mountains and vallies, and through one mountain. It was begun and finished in the reign of Lewis XIV. It is called the Royal Canal, or Canal of Languedoc.

The established religion of France is that of the Roman Catholicks; but of late the Protestants have been allowed a toleration.

I was told at Paris that many of the people look upon the Romish clergy as impostors, and that they had found them out, and intend to pull them down.

It was said that a few of the laws of France were very arbitrary and tyrannical before the late Revolution, as they were totally inconsistent with the laws of humanity; among which was that for confiscating the property of foreigners dying in France, and appropriating it to the use of the state. But since my arrival at Paris the National Assembly have abolished for ever that unreasonable decree. Had I died whilst I was in that kingdom, and before the decree was abolished, my hat, shirts, coats, waistcoats, breeches, stockings, shoes, buckles, books, trunk, money, diploma, recommendations, &c. would have been confiscated and taken from my heirs; and for no other crime than that of my going to see the country, and do business for myself in Paris!

How unreasonable was it, that the heirs of the deceased,viz.the poor widows and the fatherless children, should have their property alienated in such a manner! Surely such a transaction must be disgraceful, not only to Christendom, but even to the most barbarous nations!

I was told that the National Assembly had also abolished, for ever, two other decrees, which they deemed unreasonable. They were those that debarred the clergy from the liberty of entering into the bands of matrimony, and certain females the same privilege; and also, for the keeping them in confinement all the days of their lives in nunneries.

Before the Revolution the laws were executed with the utmost severity.

A servant would be hung for stealing less then a shilling. Murderers and high-way robbers, and those that attempted to poison any body, were broke on the wheel.

Smugglers were condemned to be gally-slaves for life.

Women brought to bed with dead bastard children, without having made known their pregnancy, were burnt alive.

Priests that revealed the confessions of penitents, had their tongues tore out, their gowns stripped off, and were expelled from their employments.

He that robbed a church had his hands cut off at the church door, and was afterwards burnt at the place of execution, which was always in the centre of the town.

People of family, convicted of a capital offence, though not executed, are disennobled, with all their relations, turned out of their public employments, and rendered incapable of holding any afterwards, and all marriage contracts become void.

The nobility and clergy, with the burgesses of Paris, and some other free cities, were exempted from paying land taxes.

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