CHAPTER IV.

Prevention of Deformed Toes and Joint—New Forms of Sole—Eureka Last—True Standard of Taste—How Distorted Great Toe may be Straightened—Ancient and Medieval Foot apparel—Suggestions.

Let us next endeavour to ascertain what shall be done toward substituting an improved form of covering for the present false style, as a method ofpreventingdistortion of the toes and the evils connected with it; and also inquire how far these deformities can be relieved by proper effort after they have been induced.

The shape of sole previously described and illustrated (Fig. 7) is taken to be as near the absolutely correct one as anything that can now be devised, and to be approximated and realized as soon in the future as possible. It is true that people should be capable of recognizing its correctness, and of adopting it practically, at once; and, doubtless, there are some who can conscientiously disregard the strong tendency to conformity with the prevailing false styles, and wear a boot or shoe which represents theright idea, or one as near to it as it is possible for them to obtain. All such are earnestly advised to take this course, and continue it, both for their own good, and as a means of developing a sentiment in favour of the change.

But there are other people, in larger numbers, who will not be persuaded to attempt so much of a change without some encouragement from popular sympathy. These must not only be taught to know what is right and wrong in the matter, but be led to adopt the right through gradually approximating steps, that do not vary so far from the style at any time prevalent as to be unpleasantlyodd. The eye must become accustomed to different forms, and first to those that deviate least from the present fashion. Bearing this in mind, what is the best improvement that can be made generally acceptable?

Our principal care is the preservation of the shape of the great toe and inside joint, not forgetting that the little toe is also entitled to care; still, the great one is much the most important, and if only one can be properly attended to, the little one must wait its opportunity. Its deformity consists in being bent and twisted under, and though the pressure causing this may also develop corns, and injury of the toe joint, the joint itself is not forced out of place, nor is the bad effect so common, nor so serious as in the case of the large one.

Fig. 14.—Compromise.

Fig. 15.—Common Sole.

Figure 14 represents the sole of a crooked last, such as may occasionally be seen in use by some of our best boot-makers at the present time. Contrasted with the one besideit, which is a pretty fair specimen of right-and-left lasts generally, it is evidently nearer to the true form. In it, the line drawn from the middle of the heel to the middle of the ball region passes through the toe nearest the outside corner, leaving the greater space at the inside; while in the other the line passes through the toe at the middle, thus making it virtually only astraightlast, hollowed out a little the most at the inner side. For the purpose of giving the great toe a straight position, it is seen at a glance that the form of Fig. 14 is far superior to that of Fig. 15, though the tendency to distortion would still remain with it to a considerable extent. For the sake of a name to distinguish it, this may be calledtheCompromise. It is not so much in advance of the common styles that many people would notice the difference at all, and last-makers and shoe manufacturers might adopt it, and with a slight effort force it into general use, with great benefit to those feet that are still tolerably well-shaped, if not to their own direct advantage. At least, the acceptance of it is one step in the right direction for those who are not ready to make a more radical innovation.

Our next form is something better. The reason for it is the rule given, some fifty or sixty years ago, by Dr. Peter Camper, of Amsterdam, who wrote an essay on the subject, in which he statedthat the proper form of shoe was such as to allow all the toes to lie parallel with a line drawn through the middle of the sole from heel to toe.

This, though not perfect, was, considering its date, a pretty good standard; but the shoemakers, if they were ever governed by it at all, have transgressed it since, until its intention has been entirely defeated. They have done this by narrowing the toe of the sole so much that the toes of the foot, instead of lying parallel to each other and to the line of the foot’s length, have had their ends drawn together at an angle till they were compelled even to lie one over the other.

When the toes lie as closely together as they can without crowding—parallel, the middle ones at least, to the line of the foot’s length—there is but little variation on the inside of the foot from a straight line. The cuts 16and 17 represent, one a foot in which the toes are drawn together just enough to touch, and one as they usually appear in the common boot.

Fig. 16.—Toes Parallel.

Fig. 17.—Toes Drawn to an Angle.

Here it may be observed that in Fig. 16 the lines drawn past the sides of the toes are nearly parallel to the line through the foot’s centre, while in Fig. 17 they quickly form an angle with it.

Dr. Camper’s rule, strictly interpreted, would have made a right-and-left last of the most extreme character, but by narrowing the toe from inside and outside alike, it was converted into one no better than straight. What is now proposed is, that we take this rule and amend it by providingthat when the inside of the sole has the right form to let the great toe lie parallel to the line through the middle, any further narrowing of the toe shallbe done from the outside only; and as the ball of the last projects slightly over the bottom or sole, it is conceived that the inside margin of thesoleshould be nothing less than straight, and parallel to the line of the foot’s length, from the ball forward, in order to give the great toe the position claimed. This would make a last a little more straight on the inside than the one described as theCompromise. We will call it theExcelsior, and represent it by a diagram, Fig. 18.

Fig. 18.—Sole of Excelsior Last.

Our reason for insisting that the toe be narrowed only from the outside is the fact already stated, that the consequences of bending the great toe are far worse than thoseof bending the little ones. Besides, it is not intended to draw them together any farther than to make them touch, and this can be done without distorting any of them, by leaving the great one in its natural position, or nearly so, and making all the curve of the sole on the outside. The outside toes being shortest, they permit this to be done without bending them more than a very little. Of course it must be remembered that the sole cannot be narrowed beyond a certain limit without injury to the foot. A medium width of toe is the narrowest that is allowable, consistently with the object we have in view.

Thelast-makerwill understand that the thickest part of the toe of the last is not to be at the middle, but at the inside, in order to give room for the great toe in the straight-ahead position claimed for it. At the ball the wood is expected to project, as in all lasts, very slightly over the bottom.

This is, perhaps, the best form—the nearest approach to that of the foot—which is practically attainable while the modern boot and shoe retain their present peculiarity, of a sole narrower at the toe than at the ball. On the whole, it is probably equal or superior to that recommended by Prof. Meyer, for though his is more crooked, giving larger latitude to the great toe, it is a question if it does not, by the extreme curve, tend to cramp the little ones more than necessary, thus making a balance between a good point and a bad one. Prof. Meyer’s form may be best for certain feet, and for a particular purpose, as willbe explained in speaking of the remedy for crooked toes, but for general purposes we have more faith in this. If it were adopted in general use, and more especially for the shoes of children, and those who have not yet seriously deformed their feet at the joint, the next generation would show that crooked toes, soft corns, inverted nails, big joints, and bunions had been almost abolished. Such a result is entirely worthy of a noble effort on the part of those who furnish foot coverings. Such an effort, too, when made, will surely be seconded by the growing intelligence of the whole people, who will be constantly learning a better appreciation of the reform. It is to be hoped that manufacturers and wearers will both see what is for their credit and interest, and unite in securing its realization.

But it will not do to be content with what is, after all, only a rough approximation to the perfect form, for, superior as is the Excelsior last to all the existing shapes, it is still but a transition to one more complete and more permanently enduring. Like all the others, it fails to give the outside toes a chance to keep their natural form. The foot, in its normal condition, does not very closely resemble any of the shapes that have here been illustrated. It is only after it has been distorted that there appears any real fitness between it and the shoe. The forward part of the foot is wider than the middle; but this fact is not recognized in making its covering. Even Prof. Meyer is no more consistent than others, as maybe seen by contrasting one of the specimens of natural feet which he shows us with the sole of a shoe such as he would have it clothed with. As exhibited in the cuts below, is there any good correspondence between the two, except that both have a general straightness upon the inside?

Fig. 19.—Meyer’s Form of Sole.

Fig. 20.—Natural Foot.

The foot is a wide one, and the shoe-sole rather narrow; but this need not be taken into account, for the same want of harmony would exist if the widths were alike. A narrow foot, however, may be seen by reference to Fig. 8, in a preceding chapter.

The only way out of this awkward inconsistency is theacceptance of the form before suggested, and here reproduced (Fig. 21) to be compared with its competitors.

Fig. 21.—Eureka.

This has all the merits of any of them, and the additional one that it allows as much freedom to the toes at theoutside of the foot as to those at theinside. All have a chance, provided other things are as they should be, to develop normally and to perform their functions without interference. Thereisan agreement betweenitand thefoot, not only on one side,but on both sides and all around. It represents completely the idea of Dr. Camper, which cannot be done by anything of the narrow-toed form. By a very slight addition to the width from the ball forward, on the inside, it also represents the idea ofProf. Meyer. So far as we can see, it fulfils all the requirements that can be made concerning theform of sole. It is proposed to name it theEureka.

If a requirement were made that it should agree with the present popular taste, this pattern would signally fail. But though it does not do this, still, if it corresponds with the true form of the foot, and possesses the merits claimed, its excellence will, in time, be acknowledged, and public taste will come to see itselegancealso. If there is any reason at all why a thing is beautiful, that reason consists in its fitness or propriety; and if there is any shape more fit and proper for a sole that is to be trod upon by an undeformed foot, will some one discover it and make it known.

Taste comes, at least to a great extent, from education. The teaching of China creates a taste which admires a short, stumpy, small, useless foot, as beautiful on a lady. In more enlightened countries a more intelligent taste condemns such a foot as anything else than elegant. A still better educated taste will admire only one that is entirely normal; and to bring opinion up to this standard is the object of effort. People are to learn that pointed toes and big joints are not natural; that they do not come of themselves, and that the foot-gear which produces them cannot have any propriety or beauty. The various long-toed, narrow-toed, broad-toed, stub-toed, short-heeled, thick-soled, stiff, awkward things that are worn by the masses must be seen to be, as they are, unfitcoverings to be put upon a decent human foot. Shapes, styles, and fashions must be judged by their harmony or want of harmony with natural requirements, and accepted or rejected accordingly. There must be less deference to an unreasoning, arbitrary opinion, and more of original thought and independent action; though it could hardly be supposed that for such a matter any great amount of personal independence would be required. A different set of views and tastes will thus, however, be substituted for the present ones, as the work of time and a more general knowledge of the subject.

There is no difficulty in starting a revolutionary movement. Any of the proposed forms of lasts can be obtained from the last-makers of the large cities—all but the Eureka very readily—and often the shoemaker himself, if ingenious, can provide them for individual feetby altering some of those now in use.

This is not so very difficult when the last has sufficient thickness at the toe. At the inside, from the ball forward, it may be shaved or rasped off enough to give a plane surface half an inch or more in width, a shoulder being cut at the commencement near the ball. Successive layers of firm, solid sole-leather are then pegged or nailed very strongly to the wood without splitting it, each thickness separately, to make the work more firm, until enough are on to bring the corner out where it should be, when they are rasped into the form required. Nails must not be driven in the outside pieces. The opposite side of the toemay be narrowed, curved, and thinned to give the whole the proper shape.

There is no reason why those persons who are capable of appreciating the doctrine of this treatise should not set an example worthy of imitation; and as the abuses complained of are so very common, it is quite probable they might soon find themselves in the company of a large number. Ultimately, it is expected that something not less perfect than the form last proposed, and having all the qualities desirable in a model shoe, will be universally adopted.

There will still remain to be discovered a mode of covering the foot which will secure to it all its natural freedom. What this will be it is not easy, just now, to tell. Possibly it may take the peculiarity of the glove, and provide separate apartments for each of the toes, becoming thus a kind of foot-glove, with a flexible sole, separated between the toes, and which will allow them to bend or spread, and the whole foot to lengthen or contract without hindrance whenever occasion may require. It will be an article of luxury, rather than otherwise, and there is no prospect of its immediate production. Yet such an one cannot, without difficulty, perhaps, be made sufficiently thick to be a good protection against dampness and the coldest weather. Some compromise, with the existing style of boot will become necessary, though a shape better adapted to the comfort of the toes may be given to the forward part of it, as by the time it is made,the cramping, narrow-toed boot will be out of favour; and this brings us again to the Eureka as the most appropriate form.

What, now, can be done toward the cure of crooked toes and enlarged joints after they have been induced? The way of their prevention is already made plain, but to remove the disfigurement after it has become a settled thing is a much more difficult matter. The toe must be forced back to its former position, and kept there by a steady, constant pressure, and the parts be allowed time to gradually re-adapt themselves and grow fixed in their proper shape. The straightening of the toe will allow the bones to come nearer together at the joint, and this, when not sore, may perhaps be pushed back slightly, toward the middle of the foot, by the pressure of a narrow boot. As this process is the exact opposite of that by which the deformity is developed, it ought, with proper time, patience, and thoroughness, to be tolerably successful. Dr. Meyer even leaves it to be inferred that toes which are not badly distorted will gradually re-assume their primary positionwithout any assistance, provided the shoe is of the right form, with plenty of room at the end, and the stocking is not allowed to prevent.

For straightening the toe it would seem that some efficient mechanical contrivance could be easily arranged, but as yet there is nothing entirely satisfactory. To be completely successful it ought to be something that canbe easily fastened to the bare foot, so that all the toes may be brought to their proper place before covering with the stocking. But there is a difficulty in making the little toe, or even more than one of them, act as a point of support from which a force can be brought to bear against the great one. So, while unable to do better, this stationary point must be found in the sole of the shoe. The best thing we have been able to discover is a simple plate of metal, standing upright between the great toe and its neighbour, so securely fastened to the insole as to prevent the toe from inclining toward the side. Of course nothing can be done in a boot or shoe of the common form, as in such a one the toe cannot be straightened by any means whatever. The last on which it is made must be one like that described as theExcelsior, or, what is still better for this case, one of the form proposed by Dr. Meyer. There is no danger of going to an extreme in so shaping the last as to turn the toe inward, because, the toe, after being fastened at its end, tends strongly to resume its old, deformed position by pushing the upper over the edge of the sole at the joint. It thus partially defeats the object, and will be straightened less than the form of the last (and shoe) indicates that it ought to be. Hence it is well not to let theball of the lastproject over the bottom, and thus try to keep back the joint from pushing over the upper of the shoe. And, even if the last is crooked inward at the toe a littlemorethan Meyer’s rule directs, there will be no harm. It should also be well hollowed or curved on theinside, at the region back of the ball and above the shank. The more the wood is taken off here, the more the foot will be thrown toward the outside of the shoe, or made to tread outside, and this will somewhat counterbalance the tendency which the toe has, when the end of it is made stationary, to push the joint and whole foot toward the inside. The crookedness will appear extreme, and perhaps ridiculous, but it will be found in practice that it takes averycrooked shoe to make a big toe straight.

We believe, however, that this tendency of the toe and joint to keep their old position by treading over inside can be counteracted by putting a low counter or stiffening of sole-leather into the upper of the shoe at the ball, in the same way a similar one is inserted at the heel. Or, if the joint is too sensitive to be touched by stiff leather, let the stiffening piece be placed just back of the ball, in the shank. The top part of it must be thinned, while the bottom part remains thick and firm. It has not been fairly tried, but if the joint is not sore it can hardly fail to be effective.

It should be afalseinsole to which the partition or separator is fastened, so that it can be easily changed, because there is some difficulty in fitting it exactly right the first time, and, besides, the wearer may wish, even when it suits as well as possible, to remove it and give the toe a resting-spell in its old position; while if the partition is secured to the proper insole of the boot, it must remainthere, whether right or wrong, and in the latter case the boot will be worthless.

A strip ofthick tin, half or three-fourths of an inch wide, and two and a half inches long, is all that is required for the material. If preferred, it may be of thin sheet iron or sheet brass. Any tinsmith will furnish it, bent and doubled into the form represented in the diagram.

Fig. 22.—Separator.

The upright part is five-eighths or three-fourths of an inch high, according to the thickness of the toes. A cut is made in the insole, and this part put through, while the ends are fastened to the under-side of the sole by some very small-headed tacks, such as every shoemaker has upon his bench, or can readily procure, and can drive after making holes through the tin with a sharp-pointed peg-awl, clinching their points on his lap-iron; or if the part goes through snugly, there is no real need of fastening at all. It is best not to set the partition very far back from the end of the toe, because at the first joint there is but a thin covering of flesh to guard the bone from being hurt. The exact place for it must be determined by carefullymeasuring the foot,while the toe is kept straightby the hand, and afterward measuring the same length on the insole, with the size-stick; thewidthof the toe, as well as the foot’s length, being also taken, and in the same way. To make sure that it shall not chafe the toe, the partition or separator may be covered neatly with cloth, or with a piece of thin sheepskin or kid leather. The following cut shows it when ready to be put into the shoe.

Fig. 23.—Insole with Separator.

The edges and corners of the separator need to be smoothly rounded, and the forward upright corner may be lowered by filing off, if desired, to prevent its showing against the upper. It should not bewideror thicker at its forward part, that is, it should not be triangularshaped,[3]so as to separate the toes more at the ends than farther back, for if so it would prevent the smaller ones from straightening out to correspond with the large one. The large toe often pushes the smaller ones to the outside—part of them, at least—and when the great toe is restored to straightness the smaller ones should be allowed to follow it, as they will be inclined to do, while the curve of the shoe on the outside tends also to push them back toward the inside. Almost anything between them will keep them apart temporarily, as for the purpose of giving ease to a sore joint, where there is no intention to continue the improvement.

When the shoe is made ready there may still be some difficulty about getting the foot into it. There must first be a toe made in the stocking; which can be done in a rough way by sewing two parallel seams, an eighth of an inch or so apart, from the end of the stocking to a depth equal to the length of the great toe, of sufficient width to give room for it, and then cutting down between these seams with the scissors. The stocking should itself be ofgood width, to give space for the smaller toes to be separated also. An ingenious woman would probably find a better way of making the toe, but this will answer if necessary. Then, if the joint is not too stiff, or the toe too much bent aside, it can be kept straight while going into the boot by the fingers of one hand pressing against it outside of the upper leather; and when this is the case the foot may be clothed in any kind of a boot or shoe, and no difficulty will be experienced in putting it on. A man’s calf boot may be drawn on in this way the first time it is worn.

But when the deformity is too decided to allow of the toe being kept straight by the hand in this manner, a shoewhich laces in frontmust be made, the opening being cut downsomewhat lower than usual—as low, in fact, as will answer—though the line of the vamp is still curved so much that the seam will not cross the joints—a direction which the maker will understand. On account of the vamp being so short, the shoe will look better if made rather long for the foot.

With this the foot can be turned a little, and worked around in such a way as commonly to get the toe to go in on the right side of the partition; but if there is still difficulty, a pretty sure way of accomplishing the object is to take a yard of tape, ribbon, or something similar, wind it up around the finger into a large, compact wad, and crowd it in between the toes till the great one is well straightened out, taking care to leave one end of the tape hanging outsidethe shoe. The toe will then be likely to go into the place made for it, and the tape can be pulled out by its free end before the shoe is fully drawn on.

A low shoe is still better than a high one for these difficult cases, as the lower it is the more freedom will be allowed to turn the foot one side in entering the toe.

Even where no trouble of this kind is anticipated, it is still advisable that the first trial be made with a laced shoe—whether high or low is not material—when, if entirely successful, a boot, or a Button gaiter may next be ventured; and to those who cannot feel sufficient faith in these statements to risk a failure on a pair of good shoes, we recommend that they have a pair made of the poorest and cheapest materials, and try them as an experiment.

The methods here given of straightening the toe, and the way of making the shoe and getting the foot into it, have been tried with fair success. Great toes that were badly deformed have been brought back so much as to give the appearance of well-formed feet, without creating any discomfort, and with positive ease and benefit to all the other toes. Of course, the less the distortion, and the less time it has existed, the easier to accomplish the purpose. There may be many cases which there would be little use in attempting to reform; but the great majority can probably be improved; and though a complete success may not be always attainable, the gain in appearance, tosay nothing of comfort, ought to be sufficient inducement to make a trial of the plan.

In some cases an unpleasant feeling to the toe or joint may be occasioned by the change, as might be expected in any change of a similar kind, but it is likely to become less and less till it entirely disappears.

The greatest direct benefit, however, will doubtless be in the case of bunion or other soreness of the joint, where the straightening of the toe would give immediate relief, and furnish a motive to continue the new habit. The difficulty of effecting this in the common-shaped shoe is well known to those who have had occasion to try it. With the new form it will be comparatively easy.

Having the great toe corrected, and the smaller ones left free to correct themselves, being also influenced to do so by the curve on the outside of the shoe, there is the best reason to believe that by perseveringly continuing the position for a sufficient length of time, all the parts would return permanently to their natural form. In the worst cases this time might be several years; in others only as many months. The law that any limb or organ of the body will adapt itself to a change of position is one that cannot be questioned; the only doubt is as to the extent of the change which may be thus effected. When the foot has been years in growing into a bad shape, it cannot be expected to right itself immediately, though much may depend upon the thoroughness with which the remedy is applied.

Prevention, however, is said to be far better than cure. It certainly is in this matter, and, being so easy and simple, there can hardly be any good reason for its neglect.

As a means of developing some hints that may be of service in originating an article superior to any now worn, as well as a matter of curiosity, and to show some of the elegance formerly existing, we give a few representations of the foot-apparel worn in ancient and medieval times. It seems possible there may be some peculiarity about them that can be adopted and made of use for the future. We are indebted for them to Mr. J. S. Hall’s “Book of the Feet.”

Fig. 24. Ancient Egyptian.Fig. 25. Roman.Fig. 26. Old English.

Fig. 24. Ancient Egyptian.

Fig. 25. Roman.

Fig. 26. Old English.

The first cut is that of a sandal worn by the aristocracy of Egypt in the earliest ages. There is a fastening over the instep, and another passing from that, to a pointbetween the great toe and the smaller ones, to prevent slipping toward either side. The foot is a handsome one—evidently that of a lady—and the sandal seems appropriate to a dry, warm climate, in the days when a partially bare foot had not become disgraceful.

The second figure represents thecothurnusof the old Romans—a sort of boot-sandal, laced in front down to the roots of the toes, but leaving the toes themselves exposed and free, and with a sole like a sandal, evidently shaped to fit the foot—not the foot to fitit. The sturdy conquerors of the world did not, it is plain, believe in subjecting their toes to any such tyranny as we impose upon ours. Who can say the foot is not finely formed, although the toes are not drawn together into a pile? or that the covering is not appropriate, neat, and elegant?

Figure 26 shows us a form of shoe in fashion among the nobility of England in the fifteenth century. Though the toe is somewhat lengthy, the shoe is otherwise eminently sensible. We ought to be, and think we are, able to improve upon what was done by our ancestors of four hundred years ago; yet here is a sole that, notwithstanding its ridiculously long toe, is better adapted to fit the natural foot and preserve its shape than any of those made at the present day. A turn-up toe is not so objectionable, when of moderate length, as it leaves less necessity for a high heel. And if our shoes must have long and narrow toes, something like this is decidedlybetter, and no more ridiculous, than the cramping, distorting shapes now in use. Itis at least extraordinary that with all our modern wisdom we are not yet able to produce a better form than any of them. But while waiting for the right thing, if the Pariscordonnierswill adopt this, and return it to us duly indorsed as the latest orthodox French style, there will be reason for gratitude to them, and for congratulation among ourselves.

It may be noticed that the form here shown would, if its long toe were taken off, have a strong resemblance to that called theEureka, the breadth at the part where the toes lie, being its best and most important point. And thus comparing the Eureka with all themodernshapes of boots and shoes, we are compelled to re-assert that it is not only the best of any for all proper purposes, but that, looked upon with a rightly educated taste—with a knowledge that the forward part of the foot is, and ought to be, the widest—it is also the most beautiful.

FOOTNOTES:[3]There is no objection to this form in particular cases where it is desired to go to an extreme in straightening the toe, provided that side of the separator next the small toes be kept straight, and the increase of width made to throw the great one still farther inward. It may be done by filing off the forward corner of the upright portion till its two sides are separated nearly back to the opposite corner, when a wedge of leather can be inserted to keep them apart. There must be plenty of room in the upper, or the pressure of such a separator may create soreness at the nail.

[3]There is no objection to this form in particular cases where it is desired to go to an extreme in straightening the toe, provided that side of the separator next the small toes be kept straight, and the increase of width made to throw the great one still farther inward. It may be done by filing off the forward corner of the upright portion till its two sides are separated nearly back to the opposite corner, when a wedge of leather can be inserted to keep them apart. There must be plenty of room in the upper, or the pressure of such a separator may create soreness at the nail.

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