CHAPTER IX.
Recapitulation—Lasts for Individual Feet—Possibility of all Fee being Well Fitted in their Clothing—Ease and Grace of Movement—A Last Word for Children.
We have heretofore endeavoured to show what is the true, normal shape of the healthy foot, as recognized by science, art, and common sense; that in it the toes lie directly forward of the metatarsal bones, in the same line, having plenty of room for all of them to come to the ground, or the surface on which they tread; that there is no occasion for grown-in-nails, big joints, or corns until after the adoption of false habits in the manner of the foot’s clothing; that the elevation of the instep is made by a well-formed and distinct arch, the breaking-down of which, as manifested in the flattened instep and elongated heel, is unnatural; that all the various deformities, weaknesses, and ailments pointed out and remarked upon are so many vitiations or perversions of the foot’s condition. It has been made plain, also,that all our present habits and ways of dressing the feet tend, more or less directly and strongly, toward this depravity and distortion. We have seen that the common sole, by beingcurved where it should be straight—on its inside line—inevitably draws the great toe to one side, and all the toes too closely together, pushing out the joint, creating corns between and outside the toes, and lameness or bunion at the joint itself; that this tendency isincreasedbystraightandnarrow-toedsoles; that it is made still worse byhigh heels, which pitch the foot far forward; while the practice of wearing boots and shoes that are too short makes yet another addition toward the production of the whole bad result.
So also it is seen that the old-fashionedshort heels, so long worn, have had an influence in producing the broken-down arch of the flat-foot; while other defects in the construction of the foot’s covering manifest themselves by callosities on the heel and instep, the turning over to one side, and the pressure, squeezing, and general discomfort in the fit.
We have, still further, tried to indicate what is the true, natural, and proper shape oflast, and wherein it differs from those in common use. This it will do no harm to re-state. First it was proven that a correctly-formed last was not a thing to be changed by fashion or custom, but on the contrary, to be as permanent in its form as that of the foot which it imitates; that one of its peculiarities was the straight line on the inside, with the curve upon the outside; that another was thespring, or curve on the bottom; another, the additional thickness over the place of the great toe; another, the level bottom side-wise, from theshank, through the middle, forward; another, the placing of the instep nearer to the side than is done in lasts of the present time. This was offered as a positively sure preventive of all those troubles arising from distortion of the toes, while also having a tendency to encourage feet already deformed in a return to their natural state.
From several of the positions thus taken, it necessarily follows that straight lasts are entirely wrong in formation and use,and that nothing inferior to, or essentially different from, a right and left last of the form described, can fully serve the natural requirements of the foot.
For flat-footedness the long heel was recommended as one great help toward recovering the natural position of the arch. Alongheel is the next best thing to no heel at all. It supports the arch the most nearly as it is supported when the bare foot is pressed upon the ground or floor. Where this will not restore the shape, it will at least be likely to prevent the fault from becoming any worse. The other remedies—the proper exercise and full development of the muscles at the bottom of the foot, and the righting of it up when it treads inward—must be considered as in no way inferior, if notsuperior, to the first. Taken together, they offer a strong encouragement to those who wish to overcome the weakness, while they furnish a sure prevention of it where it does not already exist.
The importance of having lasts made expressly to fitindividual feet has not been sufficiently urged. Though many persons can get their feet very well fitted at any time without them, and others may be so situated that they can buy a handsomer and better article than they can get made, yet where a good shoemaker can be relied upon to make such a covering as is wanted, there is advantage in knowing how a good fit can always be obtained. This is by having a pair of lasts made as nearly right as possible, then allowing the shoemaker to test and correct them after making a first pair of boots or shoes on them, when they will be right for the remainder of a lifetime. The shoemaker may also, after making the first pair, have a pattern for any particular form of the upper, likewise corrected and made reliable for further use. The expense of such lasts is not great, and the custom shoemaker can himself furnish those from his own stock for a large proportion of his customers, altering and fitting them up as may be necessary, and supplying their places with others from the last-maker. They will need to be so fitted up that they can be slightly raised or lessened in size for thick or thin stockings, or an increase or decrease of flesh. If a perfect fit is not made when they are used the second time, a further slight correction will insure it. After this there will be no dissatisfaction on the part of the buyer; no fear of loss by misfits on the part of the maker. Those who have any peculiar notion about their foot-apparel can be suited. There will be very little trouble from delay, or from getting the foot accustomed tothe boot when first worn. Still further, and better, the danger of making corns, bunions, grown-in nails, and sore insteps is reduced to almost nothing; for the covering, being a good fit, is neither tight nor loose, and does not pinch, cramp, or chafe any part of the foot.
All these considerations are much more forcible when the feet differ from an ordinary size and shape. A ready-made article to fit cannot be bought. It is often difficult for even the best mechanic to make work that will fit easily and handsomely upon feet that are flat, and have corns and large joints besides—a combination of difficulties he is frequently called upon to meet. There is the additional fact that many feet can seldom or never be measured twice alike, for all feet vary in size under different conditions, and some of them a great deal; and hence the uncertainty of being fitted by a shoemaker the first time he is employed.[10]But when a last of the rightsize, length, width, and general shape has been obtained, with all the corns, joints, sore insteps and other peculiarities fairly represented upon it, the owner may expect more comfort for the feet, and a better-looking boot, than has ever been realized for them before. But such a last cannot be made perfectly correct at first, and the customer must not be discouraged at finding a little difficulty. The final satisfaction will repay all the trouble.
A pair of lasts forboots, if made in the right way, with a good width at the shank (or just above it), while rather narrow at the top, and with a full amount of spring at the toe, can be used for makingshoesandslippers, in ordinary cases, by filling up the shank with a piece of sole-leather in a way well known to custom shoemakers; although the most perfect results are obtained by having a separate pair designed for slippers and low shoes. Those who have difficult feet had better limit themselves to one pair for all kinds of coverings.
There is hence no need of feet being badly fitted because they are badly shaped, if their possessors will act upon the suggestions given. Yet it must not be expected that big joints and flat insteps can be madehandsomeby any degree of skill; they can be well fitted, but their shape remains visible.
A boot or shoe ought to fit easily, yet snugly and smoothly, all over the foot—around the heel and ankle as well as the forward part There is no necessity for pinching the instep or crowding the toes; no occasion for looseleather at the ankle and heel; no propriety in wrinkles over the instep of a flat foot, nor having a slipper loose at the sides. Allbootsmust have wrinkles at the ankle, and all kinds of covering must have some across the foot at the joints. There need not be any of marked size elsewhere, nor should these be as large as they commonly are. A new boot should be put on with care to avoid making them.
The ease and grace of movement connected with feet in their normal condition, and when properly dressed, has been hinted at several times previously. This is a consideration almost entirely overlooked; yet it is not a thing of small importance. Everybody, in greater or less degree, admires grace and beauty. Nearly everyone who has a consciousness of being awkward in any way, suffers from that feeling or knowledge. This love of the beautiful is as much a part of human nature as conscience; and contributes as much to our pleasure as almost any other sentiment or affection. When turned more in this direction, as it should be, it will appreciate beauty in the feet as quickly as elsewhere. Its influence must be brought to bear in developing the true and elegant in this department, no less than in others. It should appreciate a well-formed foot, whether small or large; and a graceful, easy step in the street as well as in the ball-room. Let the shuffling or stamping gait of flat-footed persons generally, be contrasted with the light yet dignified carriage of those whose feet are properly arched; let the stiff walk of a manin tight boots be noticed, and then the step of one who goes along in a pair of light, easy shoes with low heels. The difference in each of these cases will be very plain. A person cannot walk easily and handsomely—much lessrun—in boots that are uncomfortable, or with corns and sore joints crying out at every step. High heels necessarily give an unnatural character to the step, because the heel of the foot does not come near the surface, as Nature intended. The weight of the body is thrown too much upon the forward part of the foot, which would seem likely to have some tendency toward breaking it down,while it prevents that very spring upon the ball and toes which is the most essential thing in graceful walking.[11]
Besides this, it is known that high heelsprevent the full growth of the calf of the leg, by preventing the full exercise of those muscles which raise the heel at every step. As it is kept constantly raised already by an inch and a half of leather under it, of course there is less required of the muscles, and they are decreased in size.
Stiffness, also, has a decided effect upon the carriage of the body. One who has always worn stiff, clumsy foot-gear has a stiff, awkward walk, because all the muscles of the foot and leg brought into play by natural walking have been interfered with and cramped by the miserable clogs on the feet. As these will bend, or allow the foot to bend, but very little, there can be but little use of the muscles which form the calf of the leg and raise the heel. Hencethe calf remains weak and undeveloped, instead of presenting the full, round, muscular appearance it shows in a well-developed leg, and which is so necessary to a light, easy, elastic step, and graceful movement.
The fashionable world—those people whom the earnest thinker and the practical utilitarian look upon almost as useless idlers in the community—still have their superiority in one direction, over the thinker or business man, which must be fairly acknowledged. They are artists in the matter of dress and personal ornamentation. They possess that taste and keen sense of the beautiful which forms everything around them into elegance, grace, and charm. Though they sometimes sacrifice strength and usefulness, and often go to foolish extremes, as do the plainer sort in an opposite way, yet they generally manifest a propriety in dress and surroundings which compels the admiration even of those sensible and steady ones who think so highly of the useful, but depreciate the value of beauty.
To the fashionable class, then, no less than to others we appeal to adopt a fashion in dressing the feet which will tend strongly to develop beauty in theirform and appearance, and grace in all theirmovements. What this is, has been sufficiently well explained. It may be added that no one should be satisfied without a good fit, and an article as tasteful and carefully selected as anything that is worn upon the head, or any other part of the person. The foot has the same right to be well dressed that is possessed by any other portion of the body.
A shape of the sole that would be a compromise between the common form and the correct one, has been suggested for the benefit of those who could not be persuaded to have anything better. This is a good one for such feet as are somewhat distorted at the toes, and whose owners are not disposed to attempt any correction. But we protest against putting anything less perfect than the “Excelsior” uponyoungfeet, that are still undeformed, and hence entitled to a covering that will correspond. Parents have no right to treat their children in such a way as to induce any of the troubles that have been described. But this they are almost sure to do, in greater or less degree, by compelling them to wear the ordinary boot and shoe. It is true the better kind cannot be obtained ready-made at first, though the demand will produce them in a reasonable time, yet some approach to the true thing can be made by a shoemaker of intelligence and ingenuity, even though, in the absence of proper lasts, he is obliged to alter and improve some which he already has. Some day the better article will be both obtainable and inexpensive. In the mean time those most interested must take the best substitute within their reach—that which comes nearest the true standard.
FOOTNOTES:[10]To those custom shoemakers who continue trying to fit everybody without any specially-made lasts it is suggested that in some of the most difficult they make atrialshoe, the upper for it being cut from some cheap material, such as cotton drilling for representing serge or cloth, and split-leather or sheepskin for leather uppers, while a piece of insole-leather will answer for the bottom. The upper can be sewed together without lining, only some eyelets being necessary for lacing, and when drawn over such a last as is judged likely to fit the foot it may be roughly fastened down all around with a waxed thread. After trial on the customer’s foot, the upper can be ripped off and the sole-leather used for an insole or something else, while if the shoe fits badly the last is easily modified, before making a permanent article. The same plan might be tried with any new last designed for a particular foot.[11]The effects upon the foot are not the only bad results springing from heels that are extremely high. The work of Dr. C. F. Taylor has already been quoted from to show the influence of weak ankles in developing lateral curvature of the spine. We also find in it some hints concerningstoop-shoulders, which are thus expressed.“Man has a much narrower base of sustentation than most other animals, which renders it important that that base should not be lessened by cramping the feet in narrow shoes, rendering progression difficult, awkward, and quickly fatiguing. But probably the most serious fault in the feet-coverings is the elevated heel often given to them. By elevating the heel, besides the still narrower base given, whether in progression or standing, the anatomical relations of the whole body as an instrument of locomotion are materially changed. As in lateral curvature of the spine, a deviation from the proper position at one point may cause several other compensating curves at other points, so an improper position of one part of the locomotive apparatus will cause a succession of other false positions of other parts. By elevating the heel and constantly keeping the flexors of the feet [the muscles on the upper side] on the stretch, relief to them is instinctively sought by a slight flexion at the knee; this would destroy the perpendicularity of the figure, were not another slight flexion made at the hips; but as this would throw the trunk forward still another flexion backward is required, and then forward, etc. But in the spinal column a compromise is effected by a forward curve and inclination of the head. Thus, high heels tend to produce and permanently establish a succession of zigzags from the ankles upward, with the weight of the body supported by the tension of the muscles, and not, as in erect stature, by the bony framework.”—Theory and Practice of the Movement-Cure, p. 75.The position here described is an approach to that assumed by old people—those “bent over by age”—who are unable from weakness to stand upright. The abdominal muscles are relaxed, the chest sinks, the head falls forward, and the spine adapts itself by bending at the neck and shoulders. The author goes on to show that these effects are felt more sensibly by women than by men, and that their diseases and weaknesses are thus rendered more aggravated, and the complete cure of them retarded or prevented by the wearing of high heels.
[10]To those custom shoemakers who continue trying to fit everybody without any specially-made lasts it is suggested that in some of the most difficult they make atrialshoe, the upper for it being cut from some cheap material, such as cotton drilling for representing serge or cloth, and split-leather or sheepskin for leather uppers, while a piece of insole-leather will answer for the bottom. The upper can be sewed together without lining, only some eyelets being necessary for lacing, and when drawn over such a last as is judged likely to fit the foot it may be roughly fastened down all around with a waxed thread. After trial on the customer’s foot, the upper can be ripped off and the sole-leather used for an insole or something else, while if the shoe fits badly the last is easily modified, before making a permanent article. The same plan might be tried with any new last designed for a particular foot.
[10]To those custom shoemakers who continue trying to fit everybody without any specially-made lasts it is suggested that in some of the most difficult they make atrialshoe, the upper for it being cut from some cheap material, such as cotton drilling for representing serge or cloth, and split-leather or sheepskin for leather uppers, while a piece of insole-leather will answer for the bottom. The upper can be sewed together without lining, only some eyelets being necessary for lacing, and when drawn over such a last as is judged likely to fit the foot it may be roughly fastened down all around with a waxed thread. After trial on the customer’s foot, the upper can be ripped off and the sole-leather used for an insole or something else, while if the shoe fits badly the last is easily modified, before making a permanent article. The same plan might be tried with any new last designed for a particular foot.
[11]The effects upon the foot are not the only bad results springing from heels that are extremely high. The work of Dr. C. F. Taylor has already been quoted from to show the influence of weak ankles in developing lateral curvature of the spine. We also find in it some hints concerningstoop-shoulders, which are thus expressed.“Man has a much narrower base of sustentation than most other animals, which renders it important that that base should not be lessened by cramping the feet in narrow shoes, rendering progression difficult, awkward, and quickly fatiguing. But probably the most serious fault in the feet-coverings is the elevated heel often given to them. By elevating the heel, besides the still narrower base given, whether in progression or standing, the anatomical relations of the whole body as an instrument of locomotion are materially changed. As in lateral curvature of the spine, a deviation from the proper position at one point may cause several other compensating curves at other points, so an improper position of one part of the locomotive apparatus will cause a succession of other false positions of other parts. By elevating the heel and constantly keeping the flexors of the feet [the muscles on the upper side] on the stretch, relief to them is instinctively sought by a slight flexion at the knee; this would destroy the perpendicularity of the figure, were not another slight flexion made at the hips; but as this would throw the trunk forward still another flexion backward is required, and then forward, etc. But in the spinal column a compromise is effected by a forward curve and inclination of the head. Thus, high heels tend to produce and permanently establish a succession of zigzags from the ankles upward, with the weight of the body supported by the tension of the muscles, and not, as in erect stature, by the bony framework.”—Theory and Practice of the Movement-Cure, p. 75.The position here described is an approach to that assumed by old people—those “bent over by age”—who are unable from weakness to stand upright. The abdominal muscles are relaxed, the chest sinks, the head falls forward, and the spine adapts itself by bending at the neck and shoulders. The author goes on to show that these effects are felt more sensibly by women than by men, and that their diseases and weaknesses are thus rendered more aggravated, and the complete cure of them retarded or prevented by the wearing of high heels.
[11]The effects upon the foot are not the only bad results springing from heels that are extremely high. The work of Dr. C. F. Taylor has already been quoted from to show the influence of weak ankles in developing lateral curvature of the spine. We also find in it some hints concerningstoop-shoulders, which are thus expressed.
“Man has a much narrower base of sustentation than most other animals, which renders it important that that base should not be lessened by cramping the feet in narrow shoes, rendering progression difficult, awkward, and quickly fatiguing. But probably the most serious fault in the feet-coverings is the elevated heel often given to them. By elevating the heel, besides the still narrower base given, whether in progression or standing, the anatomical relations of the whole body as an instrument of locomotion are materially changed. As in lateral curvature of the spine, a deviation from the proper position at one point may cause several other compensating curves at other points, so an improper position of one part of the locomotive apparatus will cause a succession of other false positions of other parts. By elevating the heel and constantly keeping the flexors of the feet [the muscles on the upper side] on the stretch, relief to them is instinctively sought by a slight flexion at the knee; this would destroy the perpendicularity of the figure, were not another slight flexion made at the hips; but as this would throw the trunk forward still another flexion backward is required, and then forward, etc. But in the spinal column a compromise is effected by a forward curve and inclination of the head. Thus, high heels tend to produce and permanently establish a succession of zigzags from the ankles upward, with the weight of the body supported by the tension of the muscles, and not, as in erect stature, by the bony framework.”—Theory and Practice of the Movement-Cure, p. 75.
The position here described is an approach to that assumed by old people—those “bent over by age”—who are unable from weakness to stand upright. The abdominal muscles are relaxed, the chest sinks, the head falls forward, and the spine adapts itself by bending at the neck and shoulders. The author goes on to show that these effects are felt more sensibly by women than by men, and that their diseases and weaknesses are thus rendered more aggravated, and the complete cure of them retarded or prevented by the wearing of high heels.