Fig. 14.Fig. 14.
Fig. 14.
Busy PupBusy Pup
Busy Pup
When properly made up, this bird can bob its head and tail up and down. A swinging pendulum supplies the motive power. The parts are shown in the drawing full size, except the clamp that holds the Dinkey in upright position (Fig. 15).
The head, tail and body pieces, one with and one without the leg, are sawed from 1/4", the back (E) from 5/16", the wedge from 3/8", and the clamp from 1/2" stock. Finish all edges. Drill 1/16" holes at A and B. Put the two body pieces together so they coincide, and drive fine 1" nails thru both of them at C and D. Then separate them enough to let the back (E) into place between them. Fasten the three pieces together with five 1" brads, and clench. Fasten clamp (F) securely to the foot at H.
Color the different parts in gay tints, and let dry.
Take 4 ft. of strong twine and with small nails fasten one end to the head and the other to the tail. Pull out the nails at C and D enough to let the head and the tail slip into their places between the body pieces. Then reinsert the nails. The head and tail should swing freely, and the back (E) act as a stop in their up-and-down motion.
Put the clamp onto the edge of a table top and fix with the wedge. Pull down on the loop of the string, grasp it about 6" from the top, and there tie a simple knot. Fasten a stone or a piece of metal to the loop. Set it swinging and watch the bobbing performance according to Dinkey fashion.
Fig. 15.Fig. 15.
Fig. 15.
Dinkey BirdDinkey Bird
Dinkey Bird
Whether or not this article may be within the toy class, one thing is certain: It is useful as well as ornamental. The pelican is made of three thicknesses. The middle piece is 3/8" and the two outside ones 1/4" thick. The middle piece has parts cut away to give room for the pin-cushion, and in the head, an opening is left to give place for scissors, which, in turn, serve as the bird's beak. The cushion is stuffed with cotton or some other suitable material, and covered with a double thickness of thin cloth, and fastened in place securely by nails piercing from one side to the other.
The platform is six-sided in shape (Fig. 16), of double 3/8" thickness, with grain at right angles in the two pieces, and has four pins extending 1-1/4" above the surface for holding spools. The pelican is fastened to the platform by placing the upper thickness against the foot, and driving 1-1/2" brads thru and up into the foot. Bore holes and drive the pins for the spools thru the upper thickness. Lastly, the bottom board of the platform, which extends 3/8" beyond the upper, is fastened by driving 3/4" brads thru the bottom piece into the upper. The pelican may be colored with white enamel and black trimmings, while the platform may be light green or blue.
Besides the places for scissors and spools, other attachments may be arranged to suit the convenience of the happy possessor.
Fig. 16.Fig. 16.
Fig. 16.
Pelican Sewing StandPelican Sewing Stand
Pelican Sewing Stand
This little device might also be called a child's aeroplane, for it soars up into the air over houses and trees, and makes everybody around crane his neck in wonder. The parts consist of the flyer, a spool and the handle. First, get an ordinary thread spool, bore two holes in one end and drive in two six-penny nails. Cut off the heads 3/8" from the end of the spool and file the ends round and smooth. Take a piece of strong wood (yellow pine will do) about 7" long and 3/4" square. Whittle down one end for a distance 3/8" longer than the length of the spool and so it will make a running fit.
For a flyer, get a piece of soft wood 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 8". Bore three holes at the center to fit onto the two pins on the spool and the top end of the handle. Whittle both faces down to a slant like a windmill so the blades will be less than 1/8" thick. Put the parts together. Wind about a yard of string around the spool in the proper direction, and then set the flyer spinning by pulling the string quickly off the spool. If all parts are properly balanced and adjusted, the flyer should go "way up high."
WhirligigWhirligig
Whirligig
This practical project is of heavier stock than most toys. However, dimensions and sizes of stock may be modified to suit the convenience and wishes of the maker. The box may be of 3/8" stock, the axle and tongue of 3/4", and the wheels of 1/2" or 3/4".
Heavy round-headed screws with washers under the heads, fitting thru holes bored in the wheels and screwed securely into the ends of the axle, form the bearings.
Take care to bore the holes thru the wheels and into the ends of the axle the proper size, and central and true.
The box is fastened by driving 1-1/4" nails thru the bottom into the axle. The tongue is shaped to fit on the axle, and is securely fastened by nails to the axle and wagon bottom.
A handle of a loop of brass wire may be inserted thru the tongue near the small end, and the ends bent.
The box is painted green and wheels and tongue red.
CartCart
Cart
The stock required for the box of the wagon is 1/4" thick, for the wheels 3/8", for the tongue 1/2", and for the axles 3/4". The axles are 5-1/2" long; the rear one is 1" wide; the front one is 7/8" wide, as shown in the drawing. The holes for the screws in the ends of the axles are bored 3/8" from the lower side. The screws are heavy, 1-1/2" round-headed, with metal washers under the heads. The holes in the wheels are bored true, and so that they will just slip over the screws.
The tongue is connected with the front axle by a piece of tin, cut from a tin can after the pattern shown on the drawing.
The cross piece between the wagon box and the front axle, called the bolster, is 1-1/8" wide, 5" long and 3/4" thick. It tapers from 5" in length at the top to 2-1/2" at the bottom, where it rests on and turns on the tin that is nailed to the top side of the axle.
Always bore holes of the proper sizes before inserting screws.
The front axle is connected to the bolster by a 2" round-headed screw on which it turns. In making the wagon box, the sides are nailed to the bottom, the ends fastened in position, and the back nailed onto the edge of the seat.
The box is painted green outside and red inside. The two wings of the tin plate are bent down to fit tight onto the sides of the tongue, and nails are driven thru the tin into the tongue. The whole running gear is painted red. The box is nailed to the bolster and to the rear axle. The seat is nailed into position, the wheels fitted on, and the front axle screwed onto the bolster. This wagon is strong and should last a long time and afford much wholesome pleasure.
WagonWagon
Wagon
The body, platform and wheels (Fig. 17) are of 1/4" stock. The wings are a little thinner. Saw out one body and two wings and bore holes for cords, as shown in the drawing. Saw out the platform and four wheels, and finish them carefully. The front wheels turn on 1" flat-headed nails that are driven into the edge of the platform 3/4" from the end. The rear wheels are driven onto a wire axle which turns in two wire staples that are driven into the bottom of the platform, 3/4" from the end and 1/4" from each edge. In driving these staples, take thought to avoid splitting the platform. Also, when boring holes thru the center of the four wheels, take care to secure proper direction and sizes of holes for a running fit in the front wheels and a press fit onto the axle in the rear wheels. Hold the body with foot up, and nail the platform onto it. With round-nose pliers make the connecting rods from No. 12 wire with the eyes neatly shaped and at right angles to each other. Attach the rods to the wings by staples so the joints will work freely without too much play. Attach the other ends of the rods to the outer faces of the rear wheels by means of short flat-headed nails. The nails pass thru the eyes of the rods and are driven into the wheels 1/4" from the outer rims. The nails in the two wheels must be in line with each other, as they act as cranks to actuate the wings. After the rear axle is assembled and fastened in place, the wings are fastened to the body.
Fig. 17.Fig. 17.
Fig. 17.
Flying GooseFlying Goose
Flying Goose
The parts of the wings that touch the body must have been rounded off, as shown in section on the drawing. The edges are removed from the holes so as not to wear the cord.
A heavy strong twine may be used for hinging the wings to the body. Each of the two hinges is formed by slipping the end of the cord up thru the wing, then thru the body, then down thru the second wing, and back thru the body; then tie the ends in a square knot under the first wing. Adjust all parts accurately so they are not too loose and yet work without friction.
This goose may be painted white with gray stripes on the wings, red beak, foot and wheels, and green platform.
Attach a string or slender stick to the end of the platform to roll it on the floor.
Watch the flying goose and see if she can rise by flapping her wings.
Until recently this bird has been considered extinct, but is here revived to show what it may have appeared like. In this case it has chosen to perambulate on four wheels and maintain a bobbing motion of the head and body by means of a connecting rod between the breast and a crank on the front axle.
The body swings on a pivot between two uprights which we will call the wings. These wings are held apart by a piece between the feet, which is slightly thicker than the body to give the body freedom of motion.
The two base pieces are fastened onto the outside of the feet by three 1-1/2" brads driven in from each side. The front end of the base is held together by a piece 3/4" square and 3/8" thick, which is also the thickness of the base pieces and wheels. The body and wings are of 1/4" stock.
Make saw cuts 1/8" deep across the bottom of the base pieces to form bearings for the two wire axles, one 1/2" from the rear, and the other 1-1/4" from the front end of the base. The axles should turn freely in these cuts,and nails bent over them will secure them in their places. The parts are colored in gay contrasting colors before assembling. The body is pivoted between the wings and the piece between the feet is fastened. Then the base is assembled and fastened to the outside of the feet of the dodo.
Before inserting the axles into the wheels, the ends should be hammered a little flat to prevent them from turning in the wheels. It should be a tight fit. Next, put the axles into the cuts, and fasten. Slip a fine nail thru the hole in the upper end of the connecting rod, and drive it thru the breast of the bird, and bend the end. Then put the lower, or forked, end of the connecting rod over the crank on the front axle and secure it by a brad.
When rolling along on the floor, the dodo should bob its head in a most polite manner in recognition of being well put together.
Dodo BirdDodo Bird
Dodo Bird
The body of the horse is shown full size and may be sawed from 3/8" wood. All the other parts should be made of 1/4" wood and have the grain run lengthwise.
Two fore and two hind legs are required. The upper end of each leg is tapered off on the side that fits against the body so that the feet will be far enough apart to be fastened on the inside of the rockers (seeend view B). Each pair of legs should be fastened to the body with a nail thru the three thicknesses at the place marked. Saw out two rockers and finish to true and smooth curves. With fine brad fasten the feet on the inside of the rocker at the places marked, but take care that the wood does not split. Saw out three rails 2" long and 3/8" wide to be fastened onto the top of the rockers with two fine brads, one at each end of the rocker and one in the middle, as indicated on the drawing by the letter R. The upper ends of the legs may now be secured to the body by two or three brads.
Give the whole a general touching up to assure strength and smoothness. Give it a priming coat of paint. Let dry four days. Paint saddle, bridle, cross rails and rocker red, and the body and legs white. Outline eyes, nose, hoofs and other features in black, and the rocking horse is complete.
The body of the rider is 3/8", arms and legs 3/16" stock.
Rocking Horse and RiderRocking Horse and Rider
Rocking Horse and Rider
Rider for Rocking HorseRider for Rocking Horse
Rider for Rocking Horse
The body is composed of three thicknesses. The two on the outside are 1/4" thick, the one in between is 3/8" thick, and reaches only to the dotted line (Fig. 18), to allow room for the head which is 3/8" thick and moves between the two outside pieces with 1-1/4" nail as pivot. This is a loose joint.
Fig. 18.Fig. 18.
Fig. 18.
Saw out the platform and wheels to dimensions. The connecting rod should be of wood 1/8" thick and 1/4" wide. A hole is bored near the end that is pivoted to the throat of the elephant; in the other end is a fork to fit over the axle crank with a fine hole bored at right angle thru the connecting rod for a brad to prevent the crank from slipping out. The two axles are made from No. 12 steel wire. One is straight, the other has a crank in the middle. Flat places are hammered near each end of the axles so that they may be pressed into holes in the wheels and not turn. Each axle is held to the platform by two staples which may be made from long brads by cutting off the heads.
Color the elephant gray, the blanket red and yellow, the platform and connecting rod red, and the wheels yellow. Fasten the platform to theelephant by driving nails thru it into the feet. Press the wheels onto the axles and fasten the axles under the platform so they move freely. Fit head and rod in places so all connections are strong and move without friction. Attach a string to the front end of the platform, and when pulled on the floor, the elephant will swing his trunk up and down in a vicious manner.
Animated ElephantAnimated Elephant
Animated Elephant
Saw out of 3/8" stock the bodies of the mule and rider (Fig. 19). All legs and arms are of 3/16" stock. Two circles to be placed between the man's arms and shoulders are of 1/4" wood. The connecting rod, marked Z, Z (Fig. 20), shown full size and of 3/8" stock, is to connect the fore legs of the mule and the crank on the axle. Fasten the legs to the mule and arms and legs to the rider with loose joints. Then take rod Z, Z, and make the fork-like cut in the wide end and drill a small hole thru it at right angles to that cut. This is for the nail that holds the crank in place. Fasten the rod securely between the fore legs of the mule at the position indicated. The tail is then fastened with two 1/2" brads. Paint the mule and rider in contrasting colors.
Fig. 19.Fig. 19.
Fig. 19.
Bucking MuleBucking Mule
Bucking Mule
Next, make the frame and wheels as follows: Saw out two 5" wheels and bore the center holes to fit tight on the wire axle and to run true. The frame, the handle, the sides and end are shaped from 1/2" stock. The two upright pieces are made of 3/8" stock and securely fastened on the inner faces of the sides. Then the sides are nailed to the end piece and the handle. Cuts are sawed into the lower edge of the sides, 2" from the end to form a bearing for the axle. Paint wheels red and frame green. The axle is best made by holding the wire in a vise. First, make bends 3/8" on each side of the middle point. Then make the second pair of bends 1-1/4" from the middle. Near each end of the axle, flattened places are hammered so that, when driven into the wheels, they will not turn. Drive the wheels onto the axle. Put the axle in place, drive nails into the sides, and bend them over the axle to hold it in place. Take the mule, put the projection from the body between the two uprights on the frame, insert a 1-1/2" nail thru the three holes, and bend the end back. Join the connecting rod to the crank. Stride the rider on the mule and insert a nail thru his thighs and the back of the mule. With a neat cord connect the hands to the mouth of the mule, for a bridle. Take hold of the handle and watch the mule gallop when you push him along.
Fig. 20.Fig. 20.
Fig. 20.
Rider for Bucking MuleRider for Bucking Mule
Rider for Bucking Mule
This game is played by two people on a board with 33 holes, as shown in the drawing. The board may be made either square or octagonal. The octagon is made from a square by placing one point of the compass at a corner and the other point at the center of the board. With each corner in turn as a center, draw arcs intersecting the edges of the board. Connect these points of intersection across the corners of the board; saw off the four triangles. Smooth the edges and chamfer. Lay out and bore the holes. Make 26 pegs to fit loose. Leave 24 white for the geese and color 2 red for the foxes.
In playing the game, all the pegs are put in their places. The foxes at Nos. 9 and 11; the geese at 7, 8, 12, 13, and consecutively up to 33. The foxes and geese can move on the lines only, in any direction from one hole to the next. A fox can also jump over a goose and take it, provided the hole just beyond it is vacant. In fact, the fox can jump and take several geese in various directions if conditions permit. The geese can not jump, but they can move so as to hem in the foxes and make it impossible for them to move. This means that the foxes have lost the game. In starting the game, the player having the foxes gets the first move. His aim is to jump and capture all the geese and win the game. Each player takes turn in moving. When crowding a goose in on a fox, the player always has another goose behind it so that the fox can not jump it. This game is one of the kind that requires foresight and study. It is highly interesting and entertaining, and by experience, players may become quite expert at the game.
Solitaire—This same board may also be used for the solitaire game. However, that requires 32 pegs. They are put in all the holes except No. 17. The object is to jump and take all the pegs but one, and it must land in hole 17. Unaided, this is difficult to do, and it would take a long time for a person to discover a solution. For this reason, the reader is presented with the following "Key": 5 jumps to 17 and takes 10, 12 to 10 and takes 11, etc.; 3 to 11, 1-3, 18-6, 3-11, 30-18, 27-25, 13-27, 24-26, 27-25, 22-24, 31-23, 33-31, 16-28, 31-23, 4-16, 7-9, 21-7, 10-8, 7-9, 24-22, 22-8, 8-10, 10-12, 12-26, 26-24, 17-15, 29-17, 18-16, 15-17.
Fox-and-Geese GameFox-and-Geese Game
Fox-and-Geese Game
This is a game that is played by two persons and is as fascinating as it is old. The upper part of the board is 3/8" thick and has 24 holes bored thru it, as shown in the drawing. The lower board is 7-1/2" square and 1/4" thick, and extends 1/4" beyond the top board on all sides. The grain in the two boards should run at right angles when fastened together. The 18 pegs are 3/8" in diameter and 1" long. Each player has a set of 9 pegs, the sets being differently colored. In starting a game, each player takes his turn in putting a peg into a hole till all the pegs are put down. Then they take turns in moving the pegs. A peg may be moved from one hole to the next and only along rows parallel with the edges of the board, not along the rows that run from corners of the board to its center. That is, along rows 1, 2, 3 or 2, 5, 8, but not along rows 1, 4, 7. The object of a player in putting down pegs and in moving is to get a Mill; that is, get 3 pegs in a row parallel with the edges of the board. For example: Pegs in holes 4, 5, 6 or 2, 5, 8 makes a Mill, but not 3, 6, 9. When a player gets a Mill, he can take one of his opponent's pegs that is not in a Mill. Another aim of a player is to place his pegs so that he prevents his opponent from getting a Mill. When the pegs of one of the players have all been taken except 3, then he is allowed to jump anywhere on the board. When the pegs are all gone but two, then the game is lost. When a player can get 5 pegs into holes situated as 7, 8, 9 and 4, 6, then he has a double Mill by moving from 8 to 5 and from 5 to 8, etc., and pick one of his opponent's pegs for each move.
Nine Mens MillNine Men's Mill
Nine Men's Mill
This problem consists of a base, three spindles and seven disks of different diameters. The spindles are fitted tight into holes in the base and rounded at the top so the disks will slide over freely. The seven disks are laid out on the wood with compass, and to prevent splitting the holes are all bored before the sawing is done.
The parts may receive a finish of stain and two or three coats of shellac. Polish with No. 1/2 sand-paper between each coat.
Puzzle—Place all disks on one spindle, decreasing in sizes upward. The object is to transfer the disks to one of the other spindles and to be in the same order. In doing this, never have more than one disk at a time removed from the spindles, and never place a larger disk on top of a smaller one.
Disk PuzzleDisk Puzzle
Disk Puzzle
At first it is not evident why this is called a ball puzzle, but, when let into the secret, most people see at once a good reason for naming it so. The wooden ball or marble is hidden from sight inside of the wood and may be shifted in position from the middle to the upper piece of the puzzle and vice versa (Fig. 21).
Fig. 21.Fig. 21.
Fig. 21.
The problem is to slide the middle piece off of the pin that projects up from the lower piece and swing it around its pivot. This pivot is a 1-1/2" round-headed screw, fitting loosely in the upper two and fixed in the lower piece. A 1/2" hole is bored thru the middle and 1/2" deep in the upper piece to hold the 7/16" ball. This hole is bored so it touches the hole for the screw. In the middle piece, the screw can slide into it. In order to make the ball leaveits position in the middle piece, the puzzle must be held upside down. The drawings show the puzzle both closed and open, and supply directions for constructing this interesting problem.
Finish with stain and two coats of shellac. This puzzle may be a source of much genuine amusement when a circle of friends come together and all want a hand at opening it, each having his advice to give how to solve this mysterious problem.
Ball PuzzleBall Puzzle
Ball Puzzle
Most of us are called upon, in the course of our daily duties, whether afloat or ashore, in camp or at home, to hitch up pack animals, do up packages, equipments and outfits, and make fastenings on sails, tents, scaffolding and play apparatus. This involves the tying of a great number of knots and in many cases life and limb depend upon the correct tying of those knots. The seamen, textile workers and civil engineers are pastmasters of the art. Our scouts, sailors and soldiers are taught knot-tying as an essential factor in their training. Would it not seem a part of wisdom, for the sake of safety and economy in time and good nature, for everybody to master these knot problems? It would, at least, be a very practical part of the training for children in the schools.
They should be taught knot-tying and its application in an intelligent and thoro manner, and have frequent practice-drill therein, till it becomes second nature to them.
When a knot is tied, it must be pulled together tight, so as to stay. Otherwise, especially if the cord is stiff, the loops will slide apart or flop out of position, and the knot will come loose. A knot derives its strength and reliability from the friction between its different parts. When tension is applied on a knot, the two parts which lie alongside of each other should move in the reverse directions and produce a maximum amount of friction, as the ropes tend to slip.
One may readily learn to tie the different knots by carefully following the accompanying drawings. Procure a slender, flexible rope, bend it into the shape shown in the drawing, and go over and under, as indicated, so that the parts will be in the correct relative positions. Begin by making the simple knots, and, later, tackle the more complex ones. Also learn their names.
NAMES OF KNOTS AND BRAIDS1. Overhand knot—to prevent unraveling of rope, starting of a square knot; also a stop knot.2. Figure-eight knot—used for a stop knot.3. Boat knot—used on sails and rigging.4. Slip knot—used to fasten rope end to a post.5. Flemish loop—stays tight, will jam.6. Stevedore knot—will not jam.7. Sheet bend or weaver's knot—for joining two ends.8. Square or reef knot—for joining two cords—very useful, is non-slipping.9. Granny knot—most people confuse it with the square knot. It will slip.10. Thief knot—will slip.11. Carrick bend—used on top of gin pole or mast to hold it erect; the four ends are fastened to the ground.12. Carrick bend—used to join two ropes.13. Bowline—a very useful non-slipping loop.14. Clove hitch—an effective means for fastening rope to a post or ring.15. Timber hitch—used for pulling logs.16. Handcuff hitch—used to convey prisoners.17. Sheepshank—to decrease the length of a rope.18. Bowknot—is tied like the square knot, but with ends doubled back in tying the latter half—used on neckties and ribbons.19. Spanish bowline—used as boatswain's chair.20. Wall knot—used by electricians as a stop on drop-cord.21. Wall knot crowned—a neat rope-end finish, to prevent unraveling.22. Three-strand flat braid.23. Four-strand flat braid, begun.24. Four-strand flat braid, continued—the right strand goes over, the left one goes under, and then is passed to the right, in front of the middle strand.25. Six-strand flat braid, begun.26. Six-strand flat braid, continued—note that each strand goes from one side clear to the other, before turning around and goes over and under, alternately, in crossing the other strands.27. Chain knot—is begun like a slip knot.28. Chain knotting, continued—each loop is pulled taut.29. Double chain knotting—is started like the single chain knot, but the second loop is formed from the free end, and slipped thru from the same side as the first. Both ends are used, alternately, and the loops are pulled taut. It makes a beautiful cord, triangular in shape.30. Genoese braid, begun—two cords are used, one end of each is used as a core, tho a thicker core may be used, and with the other two ends, in turn, loops are drawn around the core.31. Genoese braid, continued—makes a handsome flat braid.32. Watch fob—may be made of three or more strings or ribbons. Four strings are used in this case. Take two shoe strings and double them. Tie thread around them, about two inches from the loops. Hold the loops in the left hand, with the ends up. Name them A, B, C, D, as is shown in the drawing. First, bend A to the right; bend D over A, and away from you; bend C over D, and to the left; bend B over C, and toward you, and slip the end under the loop of A. Second, take string A and double it back to the left; bend B over A, and away from you; bend C over B, and to the right; bend D over C, and toward you, and slip the end under loop at A. The third step is like the first, and the fourth like the second. When finished, slip the loops thru your watch-ring, open the two loops and slip the watch fob thru them. The charm is neatly fastened to the finishing ends.33. Banister bar—is made by tying the overhand knot over a core of any desired thickness.34. Banister bar, continued—the process of tying this knot is as follows: Hold the left strand horizontally behind the core; reach under it at the right of the core and take the right strand, bring it forward and to the left across the front of the core, and then back at the left of the core, thru the loop formed by the left strand. Continue by repeating this process.35. Solomon's knot—this is started like the banister bar, but, instead of tying all the knots alike, the tying is done, in turn, first with the right-hand strand, then with the left. Each strand will thus remain on the same side of the core as at the start. The strand in front of the core is used continually for tying the knot by the left and right hand, alternately, as the strand moves from side to side. It is a series of left and right overhand knots over a core.36. Four-strand round braid—is very pretty, and well repays any difficulty in mastering it. It is not as easy to illustrate, by drawing, the process of making a round braid as a flat one; however, by carefully following the movement of each strand in the illustration, while manipulating the four strings, one will soon gain success and also much satisfaction.First, hold the four strands in the left hand, as in the beginning of the flat braid, but, instead of taking the right strand, reach in, just in the left of the right strand, and, from behind, take the left strand, bring it forward and across in front from right to left. Second, exchange the places of the words, right and left, and repeat the above-described process.Referring to the drawing, reach in at B, and from behind at the right, below x4, take C; bring it forward and across B, at x7. Next, hold the braid in the left hand and, with the right, reach in at D and take A from behind, and bring it forward and across C, at E, as is shown by dotted lines.Braiding with three strands, or as many more as desired, may be done with ropes, strings of beads, rich-colored cords and ribbons, or basketry materials, for making many useful and beautiful articles, such as chains, belts, hangings, bags, portieres and wicker work for baskets, lamp shades and chairs.
NAMES OF KNOTS AND BRAIDS
1. Overhand knot—to prevent unraveling of rope, starting of a square knot; also a stop knot.
2. Figure-eight knot—used for a stop knot.
3. Boat knot—used on sails and rigging.
4. Slip knot—used to fasten rope end to a post.
5. Flemish loop—stays tight, will jam.
6. Stevedore knot—will not jam.
7. Sheet bend or weaver's knot—for joining two ends.
8. Square or reef knot—for joining two cords—very useful, is non-slipping.
9. Granny knot—most people confuse it with the square knot. It will slip.
10. Thief knot—will slip.
11. Carrick bend—used on top of gin pole or mast to hold it erect; the four ends are fastened to the ground.
12. Carrick bend—used to join two ropes.
13. Bowline—a very useful non-slipping loop.
14. Clove hitch—an effective means for fastening rope to a post or ring.
15. Timber hitch—used for pulling logs.
16. Handcuff hitch—used to convey prisoners.
17. Sheepshank—to decrease the length of a rope.
18. Bowknot—is tied like the square knot, but with ends doubled back in tying the latter half—used on neckties and ribbons.
19. Spanish bowline—used as boatswain's chair.
20. Wall knot—used by electricians as a stop on drop-cord.
21. Wall knot crowned—a neat rope-end finish, to prevent unraveling.
22. Three-strand flat braid.
23. Four-strand flat braid, begun.
24. Four-strand flat braid, continued—the right strand goes over, the left one goes under, and then is passed to the right, in front of the middle strand.
25. Six-strand flat braid, begun.
26. Six-strand flat braid, continued—note that each strand goes from one side clear to the other, before turning around and goes over and under, alternately, in crossing the other strands.
27. Chain knot—is begun like a slip knot.
28. Chain knotting, continued—each loop is pulled taut.
29. Double chain knotting—is started like the single chain knot, but the second loop is formed from the free end, and slipped thru from the same side as the first. Both ends are used, alternately, and the loops are pulled taut. It makes a beautiful cord, triangular in shape.
30. Genoese braid, begun—two cords are used, one end of each is used as a core, tho a thicker core may be used, and with the other two ends, in turn, loops are drawn around the core.
31. Genoese braid, continued—makes a handsome flat braid.
32. Watch fob—may be made of three or more strings or ribbons. Four strings are used in this case. Take two shoe strings and double them. Tie thread around them, about two inches from the loops. Hold the loops in the left hand, with the ends up. Name them A, B, C, D, as is shown in the drawing. First, bend A to the right; bend D over A, and away from you; bend C over D, and to the left; bend B over C, and toward you, and slip the end under the loop of A. Second, take string A and double it back to the left; bend B over A, and away from you; bend C over B, and to the right; bend D over C, and toward you, and slip the end under loop at A. The third step is like the first, and the fourth like the second. When finished, slip the loops thru your watch-ring, open the two loops and slip the watch fob thru them. The charm is neatly fastened to the finishing ends.
33. Banister bar—is made by tying the overhand knot over a core of any desired thickness.
34. Banister bar, continued—the process of tying this knot is as follows: Hold the left strand horizontally behind the core; reach under it at the right of the core and take the right strand, bring it forward and to the left across the front of the core, and then back at the left of the core, thru the loop formed by the left strand. Continue by repeating this process.
35. Solomon's knot—this is started like the banister bar, but, instead of tying all the knots alike, the tying is done, in turn, first with the right-hand strand, then with the left. Each strand will thus remain on the same side of the core as at the start. The strand in front of the core is used continually for tying the knot by the left and right hand, alternately, as the strand moves from side to side. It is a series of left and right overhand knots over a core.
36. Four-strand round braid—is very pretty, and well repays any difficulty in mastering it. It is not as easy to illustrate, by drawing, the process of making a round braid as a flat one; however, by carefully following the movement of each strand in the illustration, while manipulating the four strings, one will soon gain success and also much satisfaction.
First, hold the four strands in the left hand, as in the beginning of the flat braid, but, instead of taking the right strand, reach in, just in the left of the right strand, and, from behind, take the left strand, bring it forward and across in front from right to left. Second, exchange the places of the words, right and left, and repeat the above-described process.
Referring to the drawing, reach in at B, and from behind at the right, below x4, take C; bring it forward and across B, at x7. Next, hold the braid in the left hand and, with the right, reach in at D and take A from behind, and bring it forward and across C, at E, as is shown by dotted lines.
Braiding with three strands, or as many more as desired, may be done with ropes, strings of beads, rich-colored cords and ribbons, or basketry materials, for making many useful and beautiful articles, such as chains, belts, hangings, bags, portieres and wicker work for baskets, lamp shades and chairs.
ByMICHAEL C. DANK
A collection of full-size toy patterns. Toys which make a strong appeal to the child. Each pattern sheet presents a particular class of toys including Jointed Animals, Animal Rocker Toys, Wheeled Platform Toys, Lever Toys, String Toys, Freak Toys, Novelties, etc. While intended to be worked out in wood many are equally well adapted for cardboard. Toy-making at home from these patterns is a fine hobby for the boy from six to twelve years of age, and in the school is a fascinating manual training activity. These patterns are based upon the author's long experience in the teaching of toy-making in public and private schools and summer camps. They are well presented on sheets size 10-1/2 x 14 inches and are enclosed in a portfolio with an attractive design in color.Price, 80 cents.
MANUAL TRAINING TOYSfor theBOYS WORKSHOP
ByHARRIS W. MOORE.—A popular boys' book illustrating 42 projects overflowing with "boy" interest. The drawings are full-page and show each project complete and in detail. A descriptive text accompanies giving full information as to materials needed and how to proceed with the simple tools required.Price, $1.50.
COPING SAW WORK
ByBEN W. JOHNSON.—Presents drawings and suggestions for a course of work in thin wood that is full of fun for the children, and affording ample means for training in form study, construction, invention and careful work. A helpful guide for the teacher of the fourth grade.Price, 30 cents.
KITECRAFTandKITE TOURNAMENTS
ByCHARLES M. MILLER.—An authoritative and comprehensive treatment of kitecraft. The book deals with the construction and flying of all kinds of kites, and the making and using of kite accessories. Also aeroplanes, gliders, propellers, motors, etc. Four chapters are devoted to presenting a detailed description of kite flying tournaments. Abundantly illustrated and attractively bound.Price, $1.75.
BIRD HOUSES BOYS CAN BUILD
ByALBERT F. SIEPERT.—A book of rare interest to boys. It is written in the boy spirit and combines the charm of nature with the allurements of continuation work in wood. It illustrates hundreds of bird houses and shows working drawings of various designs, also feeders, shelters, sparrow traps, and other bird accessories. The common house nesting birds are pictured and described with information regarding houses, foods, etc., suitable for each. A pleasing and practical book for wide-awake boys.Price, 65 cents.
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THE MANUAL ARTS PRESSPEORIA, ILLINOIS
Transcriber's NotesREMINDER: LEAD-PAINT WARNING! DO NOT USE THE GROUND-LEAD PAINT INGREDIENTS mentioned in the "Coloring the Toys" chapter. This book was published before the harmful effects of lead paint to children were known. Also, when working with enamel paint that contains a high quantity of solvents, make sure the area is as well-ventilated as possible. If still in doubt, wear a respirator mask to prevent the toxic effects of solvent inhalation. Paper masks do not block solvent fumes.Some of the diagrams have been moved from their original positions to the sections describing their constructions.Pages6,13: Retained original spelling of "thoroly."Page15: Changed "craftmanship" to "craftsmanship."Page31: Changed "Minsrels" to "Minstrels."