The Project Gutenberg eBook ofEducational ToysThis ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook.Title: Educational ToysAuthor: Louis Christian PetersenRelease date: September 3, 2013 [eBook #43635]Most recently updated: October 23, 2024Language: EnglishCredits: Produced by David Edwards, Diane Monico, and the OnlineDistributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (Thisfile was produced from images generously made availableby The Internet Archive)*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EDUCATIONAL TOYS ***
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook.
Title: Educational ToysAuthor: Louis Christian PetersenRelease date: September 3, 2013 [eBook #43635]Most recently updated: October 23, 2024Language: EnglishCredits: Produced by David Edwards, Diane Monico, and the OnlineDistributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (Thisfile was produced from images generously made availableby The Internet Archive)
Title: Educational Toys
Author: Louis Christian Petersen
Author: Louis Christian Petersen
Release date: September 3, 2013 [eBook #43635]Most recently updated: October 23, 2024
Language: English
Credits: Produced by David Edwards, Diane Monico, and the OnlineDistributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (Thisfile was produced from images generously made availableby The Internet Archive)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EDUCATIONAL TOYS ***
[Transcriber's Note:LEAD-PAINT WARNING!DO NOT USE THE GROUND-LEAD PAINT INGREDIENTSmentioned in the "Coloring the Toys" chapter.SeeTranscriber's Notesat end of document for more details.]
byLOUIS C. PETERSEN, B. Sc.Director of Manual Arts, State Normal University,Carbondale, Illinois
PUBLISHED BYTHE MANUAL ARTS PRESSPEORIA, ILLINOIS
COPYRIGHTLOUIS C. PETERSEN1920
PageIntroduction5Tools and Supplies7Bow Drill8Transferring Designs9Woods9Laying Out Work10Sawing10Fastening Bases11Fastenings11Coloring Toys12Working Drawings and Directions15The Buzzer16The Shark Puzzle16Duck18Goose18Wild Duck20Hen20Deer22Cow22Weasel26Tiger26Rocking Rhino28Minstrels30Squirrel32Pig32Kangaroo32Camel36Giraffe38Swan Rocker40Balancing Peacock42Toy Dog44Teddy Bear46Parrot48Doll's Hobby Horse50Stern Wheeler50The Weather-cock50Arm-chair and Rocking-chair54Doll's Cradle54Doll's Bed56Doll's Table56Kites58Wood Choppers60The Bucking Goats60Pecking Hens60Acrobat64Climbing Sailor64The Jumping Jack68Balancing Barrister68The Dancing Rastus70The Spanking Esquimaux72Wabbler74Falling Teeter-Totter76Tumbling Tommie78The Busy Pup80The Dinkey Bird82Pelican Sewing Stand84Whirligig86The Cart86The Wagon88Flying Goose90The Dodo Bird92Rocking-horse and Rider94Animated Elephant97The Bucking Mule100Fox-and-Goose Game104Nine Men's Mill106Disc Puzzle108Ball Puzzle108AppendixKnots and Braids111
The purpose in sending out this collection of toys is to promote among children a love for educational occupation. This book is intended to be of real service to parents and teachers who are intrusted with the arduous responsibility of child-training. It is with this object in view that the directions, drawings and photographs have been prepared.
The experience of almost twenty years as a teacher has convinced the author that only when the child approaches subject-matter with interest and enthusiasm can the best results be obtained. Giving a child an opportunity to make things, arouses his interest; therefore, learning by doing is a most effective method in gaining educational ends.
Toy-making incorporates this method, with several vital elements added. It takes into account the child's view-point, his proclivities and his emotions. It is a form of activity that appeals strongly to his fancy, has a direct relation to his environments, and is within the range of his mental grasp and constructive ability. His wonderful imagination endows the creatures of his handiwork with life, individuality and cunning. The toy problem is in harmony with the child's resourcefulness, his powers and his interests.
The problems contained in this book have been selected from those worked out in the Normal Model School. They have been tested under ordinary class-room conditions. To survive the weeding-out process, a toy has had to meet the following requirements:
In his early years, the child begins tinkering with what materials and tools he can find, making something. The wise parent and teacher will turn that healthful, happy, creative instinct into good, useful channels. He will encourage and guide the child, in these early attempts, by surrounding him with congenial conditions, by furnishing him suggestions, pictures, drawings and such other aids as will direct him to occupationalproblems of educational value, and by providing him with a place to work, the tools, wood, nails, wire and other necessary equipment.
One advantage in connection with the kind of educational hand work presented in this book is that it can be carried on with a very small and inexpensive equipment. Moreover, it is light, clean and agreeable in every respect. The tools are safe for a child to handle. The material is substantial and durable. The articles made are firm, strong and of lasting quality. They become an excellent means for providing an abundance of entertainment, and constitute most acceptable gifts, promoting as much genuine happiness for the industrious donor as for the fortunate receiver.
Toy-making may readily be adapted to class-room conditions and a period be devoted to it each day. Members of the class may be appointed to distribute the tools and material at the beginning of the period, and collect them at the end. While at work, each pupil should stay at his desk and keep it neat and orderly. When not in use, the equipment should be locked up in a box having suitable compartments for the tools and materials.
The teacher who is to conduct the class should be thoroly familiar with the work and should have made each model before taking it up as a class problem. The work as a whole should be conducted in a systematic and quiet manner; concise planning, prompt action, and accuracy in details should be insisted upon. The cheerful spirit, the formation of correct habits, and the proper regard for everything and everybody should be cultivated along with skill in constructing and good taste in coloring the toys.
If for any valid reason this work can not be carried on in the school, the teacher should encourage the pupils to do it as home work. The child can buy his own scroll saw and colors, and furnish his own wood. The work can be done outside of school, but still be under the supervision and guidance of the teacher. The training that comes thru reading and interpreting directions and drawings, and carrying out the instruction in every detail, is of value to every child, no matter what his future career may be.
The child should, therefore, have a book of his own, giving directions and drawings. Furthermore, the teacher should give the proper amount of credit for the home work.
L. C. PETERSEN.
The equipment listed below is suggestive for ordinary class-room conditions. The number of pupils should not exceed twenty-four.
Tools for each pupil:
Fig. 1Fig. 1
Fig. 1
Tools for every four pupils:
Fig. 2Fig. 2
Fig. 2
General class equipment and supplies:
Fig. 3Fig. 3
Fig. 3
Fig. 4Fig. 4
Fig. 4
The bow drill is useful for drilling small holes in wood, and may easily be made by a child. First, procure an ordinary thread spool. Push a round stick six inches long thru the hole with a tight fit. Shape the top of the stick to a point (Fig. 3). Drive a nail into the other end of the stick. Cut the head off the nail, hammer it flat at the end, and sharpen it with a file. In this way a drill of any size needed for the work can be made. The bow is made from a slender, flexible stick, about twenty inches long. A notchis cut at each end where the ends of a strong string are securely tied. Slip the bow string once around the spool and spin it. The top end of the spindle is guided in a shallow hole in a piece of wood as shown at H inFig. 3. This block of wood is held in the left hand while the right moves the bow back and forth, spinning the spindle and drilling the hole.
The shapes of people, animals and birds on the plates that follow are drawn full size. They are intended to be made of wood, and may be transferred by any one of the following methods:
(a) Place a piece of transparent paper, known as tracing paper, over the drawing in the book, and with a soft, sharp lead pencil, trace all the lines on the drawing. Cut out the traced shape with a pair of scissors. Place it on the wood, and with pencil trace along the edge of the paper pattern.(b) Make a tracing and paste it on the wood.(c) Place a piece of carbon paper on the wood, carbon side down. On this, place the tracing in position and fasten it down with two thumb tacks. With a hard pencil, or a stylus, go over all the lines of tracing. Pressure should be applied as the lines are being traced so that they may show plainly on the wood.(d) Rub the back of the tracing with graphite (the lead of the pencil). Place it on the wood, and with a hard pencil, or a stylus, trace the lines.(e) When a permanent pattern is desired for class use, place the tracing on a piece of cardboard, and transfer the outline by methodcord, indicated above. With a sharp, pointed knife or shears cut the cardboard accurately to line. Place this template on the wood, and with a sharp pencil, held vertically, draw lines around the edge of the template. This method serves well for class work.
(a) Place a piece of transparent paper, known as tracing paper, over the drawing in the book, and with a soft, sharp lead pencil, trace all the lines on the drawing. Cut out the traced shape with a pair of scissors. Place it on the wood, and with pencil trace along the edge of the paper pattern.
(b) Make a tracing and paste it on the wood.
(c) Place a piece of carbon paper on the wood, carbon side down. On this, place the tracing in position and fasten it down with two thumb tacks. With a hard pencil, or a stylus, go over all the lines of tracing. Pressure should be applied as the lines are being traced so that they may show plainly on the wood.
(d) Rub the back of the tracing with graphite (the lead of the pencil). Place it on the wood, and with a hard pencil, or a stylus, trace the lines.
(e) When a permanent pattern is desired for class use, place the tracing on a piece of cardboard, and transfer the outline by methodcord, indicated above. With a sharp, pointed knife or shears cut the cardboard accurately to line. Place this template on the wood, and with a sharp pencil, held vertically, draw lines around the edge of the template. This method serves well for class work.
Save the thin-wood boxes found at home. Ask the store-keeper to save boxes instead of burning them. A rich supply of wood for toy-making may be secured in this way. For class work, it will be necessary to buy wood prepared and surfaced to dimensions. The thicknesses most convenient for school work are 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 7/8".
While three-ply wood is best for the thin stock, the single-ply answers the purpose when due care is given to the direction of the wood fibers—the grain. Such woods as maple, elm, birch, cherry and bay wood are very durable, but rather hard to work. Bass wood, poplar and sugar pine are easy to work, are preferable in school, and give satisfactory results.
It is important to have the patterns placed correctly on the wood so that the desired result may be reached. One of the things sought is the greatest possible strength in the parts sawed out. The grain of the wood should, therefore, run lengthwise of the wood where the parts are narrow. Another thing desired is the economical use of material. The patterns should, therefore, be so arranged on the wood that the outlines will match closely together and thus use up as nearly as possible all surface space on the board. Generally, it is advisable to place the larger patterns first, beginning near a corner of the board, and then fit in the smaller patterns on the intermediate spaces.
Where the drawings are not full size, the dimensions are shown in inches or fractions of an inch. Guided by the figures, the outlines of the object may be laid out directly on the wood by ruler, pencil and compasses. In laying out the different shapes on the wood, attention should be given to the direction of the grain of the wood, to have it run lengthwise the object, not crosswise.
After the different shapes have been properly laid out on the wood, the next thing to do is to saw them out with a coping-saw. The wood is placed flat on a saw-bracket, pattern side up. This saw-bracket is fastened to the edge of a desk or a table top and should be adjusted in height so the top of it is about 6" below the child's chin. The child may stand or sit, when at work, whichever is most comfortable, but a standing position gives more freedom of movement.
The wood is held and guided on the saw-bracket with the left hand, while the right hand operates the coping-saw with an up-and-down motion in the V-shaped opening in the bracket.
The coping-saw is the principal tool needed for this work, and may be purchased with extra blades for about 25 cents. The frame is made of spring steel and holds the blade in tension. By pressing the frame against the edge of a table, it may readily be sprung enough to allow the blade to be put into the slots in the ends of the frame. There is a pair of end slots and a pair of side slots in the frame. The blade may be inserted into these slots with either the teeth edge or the smooth edge of the blade towards the frame.The points of the teeth should always point towards the handle of the frame.The frame is held with the handle down. The saw does the cutting as it is pulled downward. In working the saw, the blade must be kept perpendicular to the face of the wood. The blade should never be forced against the wood, as that will cause the wood to tear, and leave a ragged edge. Sawright to the line. Keep the saw going up and down to insure freedom and plenty of room for the blade, especially in turning corners. When removing it from the work, do not attempt to twist the blade or let the frame hang on it, as the blades are brittle and break easily.
When an opening is to be sawed out, bore a hole in the middle of the part to be cut out, remove the blade from the upper part of the frame, while holding it in place in the lower part with the thumb of the right hand. Slip the blade thru the hole from below, and replace it in the slot while pressing the upper part of the frame against the edge of the desk. When the opening has been cut, the saw may be removed by reversing the operation. In all cases, saw the edge of the wood to a finish as far as possible. Rough or fuzzy edges should be removed by filing and sand-papering.
Where toys have bases, they should be made of two or more thicknesses, one overlapping the other. The lower piece should be thicker than the upper, extending a distance equal to the thickness of the upper part. When both the toy and the base parts are ready to fasten together, hold the toy in a vise, with its feet up, and drive nails thru the upper part of the base into the feet. Then fasten the top to the lower part with escutcheon pins. Space the pins accurately.
Several methods are employed in fastening parts together in toy-making. Where parts are joined together permanently, a thin coat of liquid glue should be rubbed on the joining surfaces with a small paddle, and then fastened with several brads. Where possible, these brads should reach thru the parts just enough to be clenched on the other side (A,Fig. 5).
Fig. 5Fig. 5
Fig. 5
A movable joint is secured by one flat-headed nail which acts as a pivot, on which one or more of the parts turn. The nail must reach thru the wood far enough to allow the end to be bent back like a staple and be driven into the wood.
A loose joint is required in some toys so that the parts may swing without friction. A flat-headed nail is used as a pivot, and holes, a little bigger than the nail, are bored thru all but one of the parts to be joined together. The part that will be nearest to the point of the nail has no hole bored in it, for it should fit tight. The nail must reach thru the joint far enough so that it may be bent back, staple-like, and when the point is driven back into the wood, the joint should swing freely. The nail may be bent with round-nose pliers (B,Fig. 5).
The possibilities that may be achieved in beautifying these wooden toys are almost limitless. They may be treated as design problems, thereby serving as a means of training the taste and imagination as well as developing an appreciation of space relations and color harmonies. The work is fascinating to children and presents an excellent opportunity for acquiring knowledge and skill in mixing and applying colors. Several methods are given here. The choice of method should be guided by the child's ability and experience in doing work of this kind. The employment of striking and brilliant colors will enhance the charm and increase the artistic effect.
The methods of coloring are arranged in the order of their difficulty in manipulation:
Method No. 1.Water colors may be used to color the wood, but only a little water should be used so as to prevent the tendency to spread. When the toy is dry, a coat of shellac may be applied over the water color. This protects the wood and gives the toy a crisp and bright appearance.
Method No. 2.Of the calcimine paints, the one known as "Calcimo" may be used successfully by children. It is procured in powder form and costs from 15 to 50 cents a pound according to color. It is mixed with water that contains a binder to prevent the colors from rubbing off in handling the toys. The binder may be either glue or mucilage mixed with the water. The proportion is about a tablespoonful of glue to a quart of water. In preparing the colors, put a teaspoonful of powder in a water-color pan and add water, while stirring and rubbing out the lumps, till the mixture comes to a consistency of thick cream. It may then be applied with a No. 6 water-color brush.
LEAD WARNING!DO NOT USE THE WHITE LEAD OR GROUND LEAD INGREDIENTS MENTIONED IN METHODS 3 AND 4.
Method No. 3.When handled correctly, oil paint and enamel paint give excellent results, producing a smooth, brilliant gloss. First, give the toy a coat of white lead or flat white tone. Apply it with a flat sash brush about an inch wide. Allow the toy to dry four or five days and then sand-paper it smoothly with No. 1/2 sand-paper. Finally, give it a coat of enamel paint of the colors desired.
If colored enamel is not at hand, use white enamel and add colors ground in oil. The enamel paint is put on a surface with a large camel-hair brush. Use No. 10 artist's flat brush for features. Natural details and life-like effects should be avoided.
The features should be conventionalized. Eyes, ears, nose and mouth may be dotted in with a tooth-pick.
Method No. 4.For a second coat, instead of using enamel for coloring, white lead ground in oil may be used, mixed with colors ground in oil. This produces a mat or dull finish that is quite pleasing. However, if a gloss finish is desired, a coat of varnish may be applied over the dull color. Dry colors may be mixed with shellac varnish until it is heavy enough to cover the wood. If this mixture becomes too thick to spread smoothly, it may be thinned with alcohol. The brush that has been used in varnish may be cleaned by washing in borax water. When the joints are movable, it is advisable to paint each part separately before putting them together. Where glue has been used to form joints, it should be thoroly dry before the toy is painted.
In beginning the construction of these toys, read the directions carefully so as to understand the process of construction. Study how you can best arrive at the desired results. By thinking ahead, as you proceed, many mistakes may be prevented.
This toy is made from 1/4" stock. Two 1/8" holes are located on a straight line passing thru the center, one on each side of the center and 1/4" from it. The circle is drawn with compass, and then sawed to the line.
The circumference is stepped off into lengths equal to the radius, and every second point connected by line with the center. This divides the surface into three equal spaces called sectors. Color each sector with one of the primary colors—red, blue and yellow.
A strong cord is slipped thru the two holes, and the ends tied together in a square knot, leaving a loop on each side of the wheel.
To operate the buzzer, insert a finger of each hand in the loops and swing the disk around in a circular motion till the strands of the cord are twisted together. Then pull hard on the cord so that the disk will be set into a spinning motion as the cord is being unwound. At this instant slacken the cord so that the disk may continue turning, and rewind the string. Then pull on the cord again, and the disk will spin in the opposite direction. By whirling the disks rapidly in this way, the colors will blend and show a new color produced by the three primary colors. The other side of the wheel may have half of it colored yellow and half colored blue. This will blend into green when spun. By pasting paper sectors of different colors on the wheel, an infinite number of tests in color-blending may be made.
The shark is sawed out as shown in the drawing and three holes bored.
To make one of the rings, draw two concentric circles—one 1/2" radius and the other 3/4" radius. First, saw out the inner circle and then the outer.
Take a piece of cord a foot long, double it and slip the loop thru the middle hole in the shark. Next, put the two ends of the cord thru the loop. Slip a ring on each end of the cord, and tie with a slip knot into the end hole in the shark.
Puzzle: Transfer a ring from one end to the other.
Buzzer, Shark PuzzleBuzzerShark Puzzle
BuzzerShark Puzzle
The parts for this fowl are sawed out of 1/4" stock. The edges should be sawed square and to line, and may be made smooth and slightly rounded by filing and sand-papering.
The two feet should be made alike and held together when the hole for the nail is drilled thru them. The bottom of the feet will then be on the same level, and the duck will stand upright. Put a fine 1" nail thru one foot, drive it thru the body, at the proper place, and press it thru the other foot.
With round-nose pliers, bend the end of the nail around so the end will point toward the wood (Fig. 5). Place the head of the nail against a block of iron, and with the hammer drive the point of the nail into the foot. The joint should be firm and movable so the duck will stand at different postures.
Color the body brown, with black outlines and streaks on the wings, the bill yellow, the head green, and the feet red.
Fig. 6. Platform Bases.Fig. 6. Platform Bases.
Fig. 6. Platform Bases.
This project may be made of 3/8" stock and fastened to a platform base (Fig. 6).
The platform is made of two rectangular pieces one on top of the other. The upper is 1-1/2" by 2-1/4"; the lower, 2-1/4" by 3". The grain in the two pieces should cross to prevent warping.
To fasten the goose to the platform, outline on the upper piece of the platform the position for the foot. Hold the goose with foot up. Drive 1-1/2" brads thru the upper piece of the platform into the foot.
On the upper side of this upper piece of the platform, locate points at each corner, 1/4" from the outer edges, and drive 5/8" escutcheon pins thru it into the lower piece of the platform.
Smooth all parts, and color the body white with black trimmings. Make the bill yellow, the feet red and the platform green.