EXERCISE NO. 1.

The following operations are designed to give the student atrainingin the use and care of the most commonly used carpenters’ and joiners’ tools. It is not intended that the student will be able to finish each exercise in one trial, as mistakes will be very common at the beginning, and it is advised that at least two or three trials may be given for the practice and training involved.

InFig. 21is shown the working drawing (mechanical drawing) of a rectangular block of wood, and before we proceed to do the work required to finish this, we will study the drawing.

In order to represent solid figures with their three dimensions, length, breadth, and thickness, on a plane surface, i.e., a sheet of paper, we must have at least two drawings (projections), but to simplify the reading still further a third drawing is given, sometimes with additional drawings in the form of cross-sections.

To understand fully the principle upon which a working drawing is made, we will suppose that two transparent planes cross each other at right angles, making four right angles as shown inFig. 22, (these angles to be known as the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th angle of the co-ordinate planes), and respectively called the Horizontal and the Vertical planes.

Fig. 21.

Two of these angles are used in practice, the 1st and the 3rd; the most modern practice is to use the 3rd, although the 1st is still used in some manufacturing establishments and by some teachers.

Fig. 22.

We will take, first, the 1st angle, and compare it with the results obtained from the 3rd angle. We place the solid (exercise 1) in space in the 1st angle, and also place a similar one in the 3rd angle (see Figs.23and24).

Fig. 23.

Fig. 24.

By projecting the lines back on the vertical, and down on the horizontal plane, we obtain two views which are respectively the elevation on the vertical and the plan on the horizontal plane; to obtain the third view or end elevation, we have another plane placed perpendicular to planes H and V, as shown in Figs.23and24, and the lines projected back from the left end; by opening or revolving these planes into one plane, as shown inFig. 25, we have a working drawing made in the 1st angle.

Fig. 25.

Referring toFig. 24, where we placed the solid in the 3rd angle, we project the lines up on the horizontal and to the front on the vertical plane, and by placing another plane at the end, perpendicular to the H and V planes, we obtain the third projection. Revolving the planes into one plane (i. e., a sheet of paper)Fig. 26, we have the working drawing in the third angle. Compare the results obtained, and note the difference in the reading of the drawing.

In the first angle we see the plan is below the elevation, and in the third angle the plan is above; the pieces cut out of the exercise may also be noted in the end projection by the lines passing through the center of the exercise; in the first angle the line comes out full, the end being exposed, and in the third angle the surface is behind the full end and shows a dotted line.

Lines that are seen are shown as full lines.

Fig. 26.

Lines that are below a surface and are required in the reading of a drawing are shown as dotted lines.

The drawing,Fig. 21, calls for a piece that is 8 inches at its longest, 2 inches at its widest, and 1 inch at its thickest point, and that may be designated thus: piece 8 inches × 2 inches × 1 inch finished.

For measuring, a standard rule 2 feet long that can be folded up is preferred. The rule is divided into feet, inches, ½ inches, ¼ inches,⅛ inches, ¹/₁₆ inches, etc. On some rules will be found scales that can be used in measuring drawings that are drawn to scale. The drawing may be of any scale, using ⅛, ¼, 1, 1½, 3, or 6 inches to the foot.

Fig. 27.

The first thing to be done toward carrying out the work is to saw out a piece from the plank that is laid on the saw trestles (Fig. 27). Mark with a pencil the lines to be sawed; holding the rule in the left hand, and the pencil in the right, and placing the index finger of the left hand against the edge of the plank, as shown inFig. 28, draw both hands toward the body, thus marking out the piece lengthwise; then measure the length required and place the try-square (Fig. 29) against the edge of the plank, and draw a line along the blade through the point marked.

The piece should be marked out larger than the finished exercise sothat there will be stock enough in the piece to perform the operations required, say 8½ inches × 2½ inches, the plank being thick enough to provide for the work on the sides.

Fig. 28.

Having “laid out” the piece on the plank, take the rip-saw and hold it as shown inFig. 30: saw down the line, taking care that the “kerf” is square to the side of the plank; then take the cross-cut saw, and saw across the line marked. Hold the cross-cut saw as inFig. 30.

After having cut the piece from the plank take the jack-plane and put it in good condition for work. A sectional view of the Bailey Iron Plane is shown inFig. 31, and the parts are as follows:

Fig. 29.

The plane-iron should be ground on the grindstone if nicked or rounded.

To grind the plane-iron it should be held in the hand as shown inFig. 32.

Fig. 30.Fig. 31.

Fig. 30.

Fig. 31.

Apply the iron to the stone, as indicated by dotted lineA, Fig. 33; then raise it until the proper angle is reached, a position indicated by full lines B.

Fig. 32.

Move the tool gradually from one side of the stone to the other. See that there is plenty of water on the stone. The tool should be held during the operation so that it revolves toward the person grinding. The tool thus held is not so liable to have a “wire edge” as it is if held on the stone while it is revolving away from the operator.

Fig. 33.

The “whetted” edge should never be ground away unless the plane-iron is in very poor condition.

The grinding is complete when the bevel reaches the cutting edge,—a condition which can readily be determined by holding the finger along the flat side of the iron and having the light fall in the proper direction; a thin bright line will be seen which will determine whether the iron is ground enough. The plane-iron is shown before it is ground inFig. 34, andFig. 35shows it after it is ground.

Fig. 34.Fig. 35.

Fig. 34.

Fig. 35.

Fig. 36.

To whet or sharpen the iron an oil stone is used. Oil stones are of different grades; a stone of medium hardness is best, as it will cut a little faster and leave a fairly smooth edge; whereas if the stone be hard much time is required to whet the iron, but it leaves a smootheredge. A coarse stone leaves a rough edge. Use oil that will not become gummy on the stone. Several good artificial stones have lately come on the market which give good service. To sharpen the iron, apply it as shown inFig. 36, 1 and 2, and move it back and forth as indicated inFig. 37.

Fig. 37.

Many persons sharpen their plane irons as indicated inFig. 38; at first thought this may appear to be right, but many mechanics of long experience sharpen the “iron” as indicated inFig. 36. This method gives a stronger edge, which is not so liable to get nicked when the iron strikes a knot or a hard spot in the work.

Fig. 38.

Great care should be taken to avoid giving the iron a rocking motion on the oil stone, as this will round the edge and the iron will not be any sharper than it would be if it were in the form shown inFig. 39.

Fig. 39.Fig. 40.

Fig. 39.

Fig. 40.

After having whetted the bevel side of the iron sufficiently, turn the iron so that it will rest perfectly flat on the stone, as shown at3, Fig. 36, and whet it in this position; this will remove the “wire edge.” Care should be taken to see that the iron is not raised in whetting the flat side; if raised as inFig. 40the cutting qualities of the edge will be injured.

The iron is now sharpened. Replace the cap iron, keeping it back from ¹/₆₄ to ¹/₃₂ of an inch from the cutting edge; then place it in position and fasten it; look down the face of the plane and see that the edge protrudes far enough to cut the required thickness. The adjustments are made by the thumb screw F and lever K,Fig. 31.

Fig. 41.

Place the block already sawed on the bench against the bench stop,Fig. 41, and then follow the method here given for planing a piece to the given dimensions.

Plane one side true and mark (0) for the “working face.” (A surface issaid to be true when it is perfectly straight across; straight lengthwise, and free from twist).

“Side” here used means one of the wider surfaces in distinction from the narrower surface, the edge.

Methods for testing the surface with parallel strips, etc., will be shown by the instructor.

Plane one edge perfectly straight lengthwise, and square to the face side. Mark this edge for the “working edge”; use the try-square,Fig. 29, to test the work.

Fig. 42.

Set the gauge,Fig. 42, to the width given in the drawing, and gauge a line from the face edge on both sides; then plane to the gauge lines.

Fig. 43.

In using the gauge see that it is held as shown inFig. 43, and push away from the body, having the pressure on the gauge as shown by the lineA, B, Fig. 44. This will keep the head of the gauge close to the work. Do not try to mark a line by holding it as inFig. 45,with the spur at right angles to the work, as it will generally follow the fibre of the wood and a crooked, ragged line will be the result. By holding it as shown inFig. 43(and gently letting the spur touch the work, going over it once or twice until the line is of the desired heaviness to work to) a clear, clean-cut line will be obtained.

Fig. 44.Fig. 45.

Fig. 44.

Fig. 45.

Set the gauge to the given thickness (see drawing for dimension) and gauge a line on both edges from face side; then plane to gauge lines. This, if done correctly, will finish the four surfaces. It is sometimes necessary that the ends of a piece of work should be finished smooth; the method of procedure is as follows:

Mark (from one end about¹/₆₄of an inch) a knife line all around (see Fig. 46), placing the head of the try-square against the face edge and the face side only; then take a small block and put behind the exercise as shown inFig. 47, fasten in the vise, and plane to the knife lines. This block will save the corners from breaking.

Fig. 46.Fig. 47.

Fig. 46.

Fig. 47.

To finish the other end measure the length and mark as on the first end. Then if the piece is too long to plane, saw off near the line, using the back-saw as shown atFig. 54, and then finish with the plane to the lines.

Fig. 48.

In planing care must be taken to see that the plane is held firmly on the work to secure a true surface. A rocking motion must be avoided. In order to get the best results see that the front of the plane is held down with the left hand, also pressing down and forward with the right hand at the same time, and at the end of the stroke lift the front of the plane as shown inFig. 48; never let it drop as inFig. 49.

A proper and an improper position to stand while planing is shown by Figs.50and51.

In planing the edge if it is higher on one side than the other, move the plane over to the high side and plane it down.Fig. 52shows the position of the plane.

Fig. 49.

Fig. 50.

Fig. 51.

After the block is planed true and to the correct dimensions, lay out the lines across the face at the left hand end shown in the drawing and square the lines down the depth on the edges; then set the gauge and mark around the end and notch on both edges. Beginners will find it a little difficult at first to saw a perfectly clean line so as to secure a sharp corner; by cutting notches with a knife point as shown atFig. 53, it will be easy to secure sharp corners. Place the back-saw,Fig. 54, in the notch, hold it tightly against the flat side, and saw down to the desired depth, removing the portion from the end with the rip saw (see Fig. 55).

Fig. 52.Fig. 53.

Fig. 52.

Fig. 53.

To remove the portion between the sawed lines take the chisel,Fig. 56(the same directions to be used for grinding and sharpening a chisel as are used for the plane-iron), pare lightly (about half through the width of the piece), cut down to the gauge line, and then turn thepiece around and finish from the other side, leaving a straight surface at the bottom of the notch. Be careful not to take too heavy a cut, for the chisel will be hard to guide if the workman has to exert his whole strength to push it through the wood. The chisel has a tendency to go down into the work if the flat side is not used as a guiding surface; this side, if kept in contact with the solid wood, will insure a straight surface, and consequently accurate work.

Fig. 54.

Fig. 55.Fig. 56.

Fig. 55.

Fig. 56.

The lining on the exercise is made with the gauge for the lines running parallel with the edge, with the square and the knife for the lines at right angles to the edge, and with the bevel,Fig. 57, and the knife for the oblique lines. Figs.58and59give methods for finding the angle of 45 degrees, which is the angle that is used for the oblique lines.

Fig. 57.

Too much attention cannot be given to the operations in this exercise, for in all work that requires material to be prepared, carelessness in detail and inattention to methods, etc., will always appear in the finished work.

Fig. 58.Fig. 59.

Fig. 58.

Fig. 59.

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