EXERCISE NUMBER 6.
It has already been mentioned that a bead is used in decoration. An application of the bead as a decoration is given in connection with the use of the rabbet in this exercise, the bead can be applied to door frames where glass panels, etc., are to be used.
Fig. 87.
Fig. 87.
InFig. 87is shown the working drawing. The features in this exercise to be specially noticed are the method of joining the bead so as to form a continuous bead around the edge, the method of laying out andcutting the shoulder so that the opening in the frame will be kept to size; the mortise and tenon used here is what is called a blind mortise and tenon.
Having noticed these features, proceed to prepare the material, by methods previously given, to dimensions called for in the drawing. The requirements for this exercise are that all measurements be correct, that all joints fit closely, that the angles be right angles, and that the work be finished in a neat workmanlike manner.
The material having been prepared, proceed to lay the work out.
Suppose this exercise to be the top of a glass panel door; the pieces on the sides of a door are called the stiles; the cross-pieces are called the rails, and, according to the position they occupy, are called respectively the top rail, the mid-rail, and the bottom rail. The pieces that stand in the center are known as muntings.
To lay out the work, mark out the mortise on the top of the stile about 1½ inches from the end. It will be noticed that the mortise is not so long as the top rail is wide; the piece that is cut out of the tenon is known as a rebate or rabbet. The reason for cutting out this piece and shortening the mortise is to strengthen the joint by leaving a piece of solid wood so that the mortise will not be open on the end.Fig. 88shows the piece marked out for the stile; the arrow heads in the figure are known as witness marks and show between what lines the cutting is to be done.
Fig. 88.
Fig. 88.
The shoulders on the top rail and on the muntings are to be specially noticed. In laying out the top rail the opening between the munting and the stile is 4 inches. The shoulder on the face side of the top rail reaches to the farthest side of the bead so as to form a close fitting joint, and the shoulder on the back reaches to the bottom of the glass rabbet.
In order to keep the opening as called for in the drawing and to miter the bead so as to make it continuous around the edge, lay out the work in the following manner: Locate a line on the edge of the rail that will represent the side of the opening next to the stile, leaving enough for the tenon; then lay off the width of the opening; draw a line which will represent the end of the mortise for the munting; mark the length of the munting mortise. On the inside of each end of the mortise lay off the width of the bead which is stuck on the munting.
Return to the first line which represents the opening, and add to the outside of that the width of the bead and rabbet; then from those lines mark across the face from the line which will represent the bead, and across the back from the line which represents the depth of the glass rabbet.
Fig. 89.
Fig. 89.
Prepare the shoulder lines for the saw as directed in previous work. The lines to be drawn on the edge of the rail are shown inFig. 89.
The shoulders on the munting are prepared in the same way as the rail.In marking the sides of the mortise and tenon use themortisegauge (see Fig. 73).
Cut the mortise and the tenon as directed in previous work, using a narrow chisel to remove the chips from the mortise. The bead is to be joined so that it will appear continuous; the method of joining is called mitering. A miter is made by cutting, at an angle of 45 degrees, the pieces to be joined.
The practical man will try many methods of cutting material in order to save time. For instance, if he is to make frames where the corners are to be mitered, he will make a miter box. This box (which is not a box at all) is three pieces fastened together to form a bottom and two sides, all of which must be true before being nailed together; then by cutting across the sides in both directions with the saw at an angle of 45 degrees and square to the bottom, the so-called miter box is made, an illustration of which is shown inFig. 90. Iron miter boxes are now in general use; of theseFig. 91is a good representation.
Fig. 90.
Fig. 90.
In the mitering of the bead, a templet, which can be made by the student, is of great service.
Fig. 91.
Fig. 91.
A templet is a mould or pattern used as an auxiliary. The templet for this work is made in the following manner. Take a piece and rabbet out one corner as shown inFig. 92; then cut the ends as shown inFig. 93, which are at 45 degrees. With this templet placed on the work as shown inFig. 94, with a chisel cut off the bead, which protrudes beyond the templet.
Fig. 92.Fig. 93.
Fig. 92.
Fig. 92.
Fig. 93.
Fig. 93.
Fig. 94.Fig. 95.
Fig. 94.
Fig. 95.
At the mortises remove part of the bead as shown inFig. 95; then place the templet in position, and cut to the angle.
Care should be taken to see that the mortises are cut square to the edges on the ends, so that they will not squeeze the tenon when putting the work together.
After all cutting and fitting is done glue the work (see note on glue at the end of the book), and clamp the pieces together with handscrews. Handscrews are of the form as shown inFig. 96.
Fig. 96.
Fig. 96.
In order further to strengthen this kind of joint, small iron pins may be driven into the back through the tenon, but they must not come through the work. The pins may be made by cutting wire brads off to the required length and driving them in and setting them below the surface with a nail set. After the glue is set finish off the work with a smooth plane.