SAILING FROM ANGIER.
We sailed from Angier roadstead, for Manila, on the afternoon of the following day, but owing to light airs we made slow progress to the island of Lucepara; here we were obliged to anchor to find sufficient depth of water to carry the ship into the straits of Banca. After sounding with several boats, there was, at length, found a channel, having about three feet more water than the ship drew. When passing through the straits we were compelled frequently to anchor, in consequence of the soundings disagreeing much with our miserable charts. A fine breeze wafted us through these waters with great rapidity, as far as Pulo Aor; from thence, until we were fairly to the northward of the great group of shoals, lying towards the coast of Palawan, we were more indebted to the current. On our passage from Sumatra to the Philippines we passed through a considerable portion of the archipelago of the east, where lie Borneo, Java, and Sumatra, the Molucca and Philippine islands; where the sea is like a smooth bed on which the islands seem to sleep in bliss—islands, in which the spice and perfume gardens of the world, are embosomed; where the bird of paradise, the golden pheasant, and a hundred other birds of brilliant plumage, have their homes amid thickets so luxuriant, and scenery so picturesque, that European strangers there find the fairy lands of their youthful dreams. But our pleasing anticipations were at times blighted with the apprehension of striking on some unknown shoal, or encountering one of those tremendoustyphoons for which the northern coast of China, in the latter part of September, about the changing of the monsoons, is so notorious.
Thick squally weather attended by variable winds blowing sometimes from the northern, and again from the southern quarter, wafted us rapidly to the eastward, after doubling the shoals. We proceeded onward, assisted by a strong current, until two o’clock in the morning of the thirtieth of September, when a slight gleam of light appearing through the mist, discovered to us mount and point Calavité, on the northwestern extremity of Mendora islands. Shortly afterward, we descried Luban and Cabia or (Goat) islands. At ten in the morning, we dropped anchor between the island of Corregidor, and the mountain of Marivales on the island of Luconia or Luzon.
Our chronometers being useless, we were obliged for some time previously to entering the China sea, to depend on our “dead reckoning;” notwithstanding twenty-five or thirty miles a day was allowed for a current setting to the eastward, after passing Pulo Sapata, the allowance proved insufficient, as we had gained forty-five miles over our reckoning. During the past month, the diarrhœa prevailed among the crew, probably occasioned by a change of climate from cold to extreme heat, from rainy weather, excess in fruit, and frequent change in diet, but more particularly from the compulsory substitution of yams for bread.
Before we anchored, the ship was boarded by a Spanish officer, despatched by the Corregidor to make the usual inquiries. Our arrival was communicated by telegraph to Manila. The officer’s boat was rowed by sixteen Indians, and armed with four neat, small brass swivels, small-arms, pikes, &c., to enable them to combat with the pirates who occasionally frequent the bay, and to capture smugglers.
Having previously paid the commandant and family a visit, by whom we were received in a most hospitable manner, we landed in the morning at the base of Marivales, in search of adventure. The ship anchored the following afternoon, in the roadstead of Manila, about four miles from the low-stone lighthouse, situated at the embouchure of the river Pasig, and being only twenty miles from our first anchorage-ground. On the succeeding morning, the captain of the port paid the usual visita, (visit,) accompanied by Mr. Henry Sturgis, of the very respectable American house ofRussell and Sturgis, and Mr. Edwards, the American consul. Having received a kind invitation from these gentlemen, to take up our abode with them, I moved on shore, bag and baggage, to the house of the latter gentleman, finely situated at St. Cruz, opposite the city of Manila, and directly upon the banks of that beautiful river.
MANILA.
The noble bay of Manila is about forty-five leagues in circumference and nearly free from dangers; the scenery is of a varied character: mountains and hills are discernible in the distance, from Marivales, sweeping in a circle around the bay, till the most lofty form the eastern boundary of the island, the shores of which are washed, on one side, by the ocean, and on the other, by the waters of Lago de Bria; from the lake flows that rapid steam, the Pasig, (pronounced Parseek,) into the bay, at the distance of twelve miles, watering a rich extent of low land.
The city of Manila lies on the south side of the river, and is enclosed by dark stone-walls, having a broad and deep ditch; so high are the city-walls, that only the red tiled-houses, and the towers and domes of churches, can be seen in the distance above them. On entering the city, you are struck with the stillness and gloomy appearance of the streets, interrupted only occasionally by the march of soldiers going to relieve guard in this garrisoned town, the rumbling of a solitary carriage, the tinkling of a bell, announcing the approach of the host on its way to administer the last religious rites to a dying sinner, or a distant convent-bell summoning the religious to prayers. The streets, although narrow, are kept clean, and have good “trottoirs;” the great square in the centre of the city contains a fine bronze statue of Charles the Fourth of Spain, erected by hisdutifulandaffectionate son, Ferdinand the beloved, so says the inscription on the pedestal; three sides of the square are occupied by the cathedral or church of the “Immaculate Conception,” the consistorial palace, and the palace of the governor-general. Manila contains about ten thousand souls, and is garrisoned by two regiments of soldiers; at Binonda, St. Cruz, and the villages in the vicinity, three more are stationed, besides three thousand placed in different parts of the island. Of these, twelve hundred only are Europeans, the remainder being Indians; they are well clothed, fed, lodged, drilled, and paid. The houses are built in a quadrangular form and arevery massive, having covered balconies, from the second story, projecting over the street; they are generally spacious, well-furnished, and neat; the ground-floor, called the “bodega,” or “godown,” is occupied as a magazine for goods, as a stable, and for other purposes. Instead of lattice-work or glass, themyashell is used, set in frames about four inches square; it affords a very agreeable light, equal to that passing through ground-glass; the windows thus formed extend round the house, can be slid at pleasure, and render the dwellings light and airy; the second story is of thin brick, or light framework, and plastered; the roof is covered with tile, the framework being so constructed that it will readily yield to the shock of an earthquake, (which is of very frequent occurrence,) without being easily thrown down. A very large proportion of the buildings, in the towns and villages, are in the native style, being for the most part, owing to the low swampy ground, erected on piles from three to six feet high, and are constructed with the bamboo or palm-leaf; the interior is much exposed to view, as the windows made with palm-leaf or bamboo lattice, occupy three fourths of their fronts and are let down at daylight.
Within them may be seen, in the evening, the Holy Virgin, surrounded by lights and placed in a glass-case, dressed in a gay attire, holding in her arms the infant Saviour; around her are seen the whole family, at prayers, before retiring to rest, thanking her for the blessing bestowed during the day and imploring her guardianship from all enemies during the night; at other times, the inmates are chewing buyo or areca nut, &c., smoking cigars, (of which they are immoderately fond,) combing and oiling their long thick hair, or thrumming on the guitar and singing. Sewing is but little attended to, as their dresses are simple and their children are permitted to run about naked. They cook twice daily on the outside of their houses; their fare consisting principally of rice and some fruit, with an addition perhaps of a fowl, some fish orlocusts. All their washing is done at the river, where they bathe daily. Every man among the Indians owns a game-cock, and he frequently loses all he has, even to his waistcloth, in that barbarous species of gambling, cock-fighting; the birds are armed with scythe-shaped spurs, and one or both expire, generally, during the first few rounds. The immense number of licensed cock-pitswhich are found in every town and village, serves to show the prevalence of the passion for this amusement.
Manila is connected with the towns on the right bank of the river, by means of a single bridge, built very neatly of stone, the arch of which was thrown down a few years since by an earthquake, and is rebuilt of wood. The commerce of the city is carried on at the right side of the river, at Binondo, St. Cruz, &c.; that side having the advantage of numerous natural canals or branches, from the main river, on which are situated extensive warehouses, so that the cascoes, which are large boats, having moveable or sliding roofs, in sections of about six feet in length, can land their goods immediately at the wharf without exposure to the weather.
The city of Manila, within the walls, was computed by a census taken in 1818, to contain a population of six thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, exclusive of the military. Buildings which rent from five to fourteen hundred dollars per annum, in Binondo, contiguous to the river and its branches, will not in Manila, rent for more than one fourth of that sum, owing to its want of water communication, yet the government have very inconveniently placed the new and extensive custom-house close to the city-walls. There are about seven thousand Chinese settled here; all the Europeans, including the military, do not exceed twenty-five hundred; the rest are Indians, who, were they aware of their strength, might easily wipe from the face of existence, the handful of Europeans and other foreigners, who hold them and their lands in subjection.
Provisions are so low in value, that it is said four dollars will furnish a labourer, in rice, &c., sufficient for his yearly consumption. Labour is exceedingly low; the wages for a servant-man, being from one to one and a half dollars per month. Rice has been sold here for three quarters of a dollar the caban of one hundred and thirty pounds: at this time it is double that price, in consequence of vast quantities having been shipped to Canton. A person possessing the immense sum of twenty-five dollars is considered, among the Indians, as “passing rich,” and immediately quits labour tokeep shopin the street, with a moveable stall, or in front of his bamboo-hut; thegoodsusually consist of burgo, alias areca nut, and betel-leaf, well prepared with liquid chunamfor immediate mastication, cocoa-nut oil, a little coarse pottery, wooden shoes, palm-leaf hats, and perhaps a few mats. A great number of the shops contain only the first-named article, and the stock in trade may possibly amount to the sum of two rials, (twenty-five cents;) here they sit cross-legged, during the whole day, or, desiring a change, sideways, on a gridiron bamboo-seat. I have frequently feared the whole stock in trade, would be ejected into the street by their insatiable masticatory powers, but occasionally seeing the havoc they are making, and fearful of becoming bankrupts, they thrust a corner of one of the handspike cigars (which are in common use) into their mouths and finish off the evening with it.
MANILA CONTINUED—CALZADA—SEA-CUCUMBER—CIGAR-FACTORY AT BINONDO—EXPORTS—DUTIES—WEIGHTS AND CURRENCY—EXCHANGE—IMPORTS—LUZON—CAVITÉ—HURRICANES—LAGO DE BRIA—PINA—INDIAN AND BUFFALO—VISITS TO THE ALCADE.
MANILA CONTINUED—CALZADA—SEA-CUCUMBER—CIGAR-FACTORY AT BINONDO—EXPORTS—DUTIES—WEIGHTS AND CURRENCY—EXCHANGE—IMPORTS—LUZON—CAVITÉ—HURRICANES—LAGO DE BRIA—PINA—INDIAN AND BUFFALO—VISITS TO THE ALCADE.
There is a fashionable drive in Manila, called the Calzada, encompassing, probably, two thirds of the circumference of Manila: it passes over a low, level piece of ground, bordering on the fosse or ditch of the city on one side, and on the open country and parade-ground fronting the bay, on the other. Along this drive, carriages may be seen rolling, filled with well-dressed ladies, but mostly of a dark complexion, (Mestizoes,) smoking cigars with most perfect nonchalance: some are puffing paper cigars—others, those which resemble, in size, Havanas; and again others, a ponderous article which would occupy an indefatigable smoker a week or ten days.
There are no public houses in the neighbourhood, and the only amusement is a dull drive at sunset, day after day, over the same grounds, in preference to others infinitely more pleasant, stopping occasionally to light a cigar from a slow match: this latter article is carried by boys, who infest the road, making loud and frequent vociferations, going upon the full run. The market is abundantly supplied with beef, fish, fowls, ducks, turkeys, geese, fruit, and vegetables. A large proportion of the labouring class take their meals in the street, from the innumerable venders which occupy the sidewalks, to the great annoyance of pedestrians. Among the strange articles exposed for sale in every street are fried locusts, made into a curry. That disgusting looking fish, called by some ichthyologists, Holothurial—sea-cucumber and sea-slug by the English—Bichos do Mar by the Portuguese—Tripango or Trippany by the Javanese—Swala by the Sumatrans—and Balaté by the Philippine islanders, is in common use among the Chinese and Europeans. I have eaten it made into a soup or stew: it has ataste between the green fat of a turtle and the soft gristle of boiled beef, and is said to be very nutritious, but not equal to the edible bird’s-nests, or nests of the sea-swallow of these seas. No less than five thousand, four hundred and eighty-six piculs of one hundred and thirty-seven pounds each, equal to seven hundred and sixty-eight thousand and forty pounds, were shipped from this port to Canton last year, as appears by the custom-house returns, besides a large quantity smuggled. By far the larger portion is brought here by American vessels from the Fejee islands. These fish resemble, when contracted, a cucumber, and it is difficult to discover the eyes and mouth: some are black, others white, gray, &c.: they are, at present, sold at fourteen dollars per picul, the cargo.
The land in the vicinity, for many miles, is low and marshy, but neatly cultivated with rice. It is surprising that health should be enjoyed at all in the midst of rice-swamps, in this sultry climate: thousands of huts are built in the midst of them, when it would prove fatal to the whole population in almost any other country. The healthiness of the climate, I think, must be attributed to the narrowness of that part of the island, and to the constant and refreshing breezes which dissipate its miasma. The bamboo is one of the most useful among the vegetable creation—houses, chairs, fences, settees, buckets, boxes, baskets, hats, drinking-cups, fans, mats for boats, spear-handles, sails, &c., are made of its wood; while the tender root is served up at the table, boiled and roasted, used as a pickle and as a sweetmeat. I visited the celebrated great cigar-factory at Binondo; about five thousand females are employed in it, and about six hundred men: it is a royal monopoly. Every person is searched twice a day to see if he pilfers any of his majesty’s tobacco—he being the sole owner and master of the factory.
MANILA—EXPORTS.
The principal articles exported, (except gold and silver,) were indigo, sugar, rice, hemp or abacia, cotton, cocoa-nut oil, sulphur, balaté, or bichos do mar, coffee, wax and hides, in the following proportions:—
Indigo, thirty-one thousand, one hundred and nineteen arrobas, of which twenty-five thousand were agua rose or liquid, in jars; sugar, six hundred and seventeen thousand, seven hundred and thirty-eight arrobas, excepting eighteen thousand arrobas of thefirst quality; rice, one million, seventy-four thousand, one hundred and seventy arrobas, including two hundred thousand, uncleaned; hemp, or abacia, one hundred and fifty-three thousand, four hundred and forty-seven arrobas—it is of two qualities, and is called, in the United States, Manila-grass or hemp; cotton, four thousand one hundred and ninety-five arrobas; cocoa-nut oil, six thousand, nine hundred and sixty-four arrobas; sulphur, two thousand, four hundred and eighty arrobas; balaté or bichos do mar, five thousand, four hundred and eighty-six arrobas; coffee, fourteen thousand, six hundred and twenty-five arrobas; hides, twenty-nine thousand, nine hundred and fifty-eight arrobas.
The minor articles of export are dried shark’s fins, oysters, muscles, shrimps and other dried fish, oil of sesamum, edible bird’s-nests, ploughs, hatchets, knives, cowries, rattans, canes, sail-cloth of yéacos, dammer or pitch, tortoise-shell, horns, mother-of-pearl, shells, tallow, shoes and boots, chocolate, soap, cigars, tobacco, saltpetre, lard, dried deer and ox sinews, birds of paradise, wheat, flour and bread, mats and palm hats, cigar-cases, rum, molasses, sugar-candy, sweetmeats, groundnuts, gomuti or sagwire, cabinet furniture, ebony and Japan woods, and Agal, a species of sea-weed, or rather dulse, dissoluble into a glutinous substance, and used in China as a valuable paste: also sinamaya, a fine cloth, made from the avacá; and piña, which is a narrow cloth, made from the fibres of the pineapple; it is, deservedly, considered as one of the most beautiful fabrics in the world—is transparent, of a great variety of beautiful patterns, and equal in the fineness of its texture to cobweb-muslin. A large portion of the rice is exported to Canton by Americans, to save the measurement duty, or to Lintin when they proceed elsewhere to purchase other than China goods. Occasionally the export is prohibited, either from scarcity or the caprice of the government.
The export of hemp, abacá or avacá, in the year 1829, was eight thousand, four hundred and one piculs: in 1832, it had increased to thirty-seven thousand, five hundred:—this article is the fibrous bark of a wild banana, (musa textilis,) which grows abundantly in all the Philippine islands. Gomuti or sagwire is exported in its natural state, or made into cables, &c.: it resembles very coarse black horse-hair—is the produce of the borassus gomuti or aren palm, which yields the sagwire for cordage, and is found lyingbetween the trunk and the branches, on a soft gossamer-like texture, which is used in calking the seams of ships: it also makes a useful tinder for kindling fire—grows luxuriantly, away from the seacoast, but never produces more than two crops of the sagwire.
The cocoa-nut oil is mostly shipped to Singapore, and from thence to England, where it is manufactured into candles: it is of two qualities; the best is boiled from the green nut—the ordinary kind is ground from nuts, broken and exposed some days to the sun: the first quality, only, is bought for shipping; as casks cannot be obtained, it is sold in jars, and readily congeals when the thermometer is at 70°. Wheat is raised in abundance, and ship-bread, of a very superior quality, is generally sold at from four to five dollars the hundred pounds. As salted beef, pork, butter, and hams, are purchased only by foreign captains, they are of very slow and uncertain sale.
TheImport Dutyin foreign vessels is fourteen per centum, Spanish; theExport Duty, three per centum, excepting on hemp, which is free. The importations for the year 1831 amounted to one million, seven hundred and ninety-four thousand, three hundred and seventy-nine dollars; the exports for the same period, to one million, four hundred and fourteen thousand, seven hundred and ten dollars.
The gold and silver imported, amounted to three hundred and thirty-seven thousand, two hundred and eighty-seven dollars, and the amount exported, on which duties were paid, was forty-nine thousand, two hundred and nineteen dollars. A large sum in gold, silver, and in the dust produced in the island, is smuggled out of the country, principally by the Chinese.
Weights.—The quintal is four Spanish arrobas of twenty-five pounds. The picul is here one hundred and thirty-seven pounds, Spanish, or one hundred and forty pounds, English.
Thecurrencyof the island is dollars and their parts, and doubloons; the latter being worth sixteen dollars.Exchangeon London was four and a half prem.; on Canton, two per cent. discount: but it necessarily fluctuates very materially.
Theimportsare British, India, and China goods, wines, sheathing copper and nails, iron and steel, cocoa from Peru, &c. During the southwest or foul monsoon, the shipping lies at Cavité, and in the northeast or fair monsoon, (from October to April,) from threeto five miles from the entrance to Pasig, below the bridge which unites Manila with Binondo.
POPULATION—TAXES.
Thepopulationof the archipelago of the Philippine islands, according to the returns made, in the year 1792, was one million, four hundred thousand, four hundred and sixty-five; in 1805, one million, seven hundred and thirty-nine thousand, two hundred and five; in 1812, one million, nine hundred and eleven thousand, five hundred and thirty-five; in 1815, one million, nine hundred and twenty-seven thousand, eight hundred and forty; in 1817, two millions, sixty-three thousand, three hundred and ninety-five; in 1818, two millions, two hundred and forty-nine thousand, eight hundred and fifty-two.
The increase in twenty-six years, from 1792 to 1818, was about sixty per cent.; if to this be added thirty-seven per cent. for the increase in sixteen years, from 1818 to 1834, the population at present amounts to three millions, one hundred and twelve thousand, two hundred and ninety-seven. The island of Luzon had a population of one hundred and forty-nine thousand, six hundred and ninety-five: if to this we add thirty-seven per cent. up to 1834, it will give two hundred and five thousand and eighty two. Of this number, nearly one half is within a circuit of twelve miles of the capital. The number of the negro race, called Aetes, Ygorzotes, or Papuas, was estimated at seventeen thousand, three hundred and fifty-five: this number does not include many thousands, probably, who live among the fastnesses of the mountains.
The principal object of the Spanish government in ascertaining the number of inhabitants, was to levy a capitation tax; in some cases as low as one rial per head—in others, twelve rials. The Chinese pay a much higher tax than any other foreigners; the traders, in 1832, paid six dollars per annum—the common labourers, half that amount. The latter tax forced many of the poorer class to emigrate: the Spanish government is afraid of them, and wishes also to employ the natives of the country; it therefore laid this heavy impost for the purpose of driving them away.
No foreigners have permission to remain there, even to this day, as permanent settlers: they are liable to be ordered out of the country by the governor at any moment, and this right is not unfrequently exercised.
The island of Luzon, which derives its name from Luzong, alarge wooden mortar used by the natives for cleaning rice, was discovered in 1521, and in 1571, Manila was founded. The discoverers found the country about Manila thickly settled with an active people called Tagalor; at the north of this nation they met with and conquered the Pampangoes, Zambales, Pangasinanes, Yloeds, and Cagayanes: at the eastward of the Tagaloes were the Camarines. Each of these was a distinct people, having a particular language. None of them had a sovereign or chief magistrate; they were divided into a great number of small villages, containing from fifty to one hundred families, each governed by a chief, who was chosen for his wisdom and his deeds in arms. These petty states were continually at war with each other, making slaves of their unfortunate prisoners—the mountains were then, as now, inhabited by the negro race, common to many of the islands in the eastern archipelago. These different races of people, with the exception of about ten thousand, still form the population of the island.
CAVITÉ—PASIG.
Three leagues from Manila is Cavité, called by the natives Caveit, because it is a crooked point of land extending into the sea. (Here is a small arsenal, and some small vessels are built, and occasionally a ship of war. It was formerly the resort of the Acapulco ships, before South America freed herself and commerce from the shackles which deprived her of all participation in a free trade.) The natives were found to have all the necessaries of life—rice, beans, millet, camote, a species of potato, pine-apples, oranges, mangoes, hogs, ducks, fowls, goats, and buffaloes, were in abundance. The island abounded in deer, wild pigeons, and other game; the gomuti-palm yielded them, when fresh, a pleasant beverage—when fermented, an intoxicating liquor: the pith furnished with sugar—when the liquor was properly boiled down, a farina, inferior to sago, and of the inside of its triangular-shaped fruit a sweetmeat was made. The cocoa-palm afforded a delicious beverage, and oil for cooking or burning: the areca-palm with its nut, and the betel-leaf, produced their favourite buyo. The lakes, rivers, bays, and ocean, swarmed with myriads of fish, which they ensnared in the most ingenious manner, with nets, lines, &c.
The island is traversed by a chain of mountains, extending from north to south, from which others branch out; some are found isolated, in the midst of plains, while others are surrounded bywater. Volcanoes are found in various parts; between the provinces of Albay and Camorines is the Mayon, shaped like an obtuse peak; it forms a good landmark for navigators; there is also at Taal a similarly-shaped mountain in the midst of a lagoon; it is called Bombou. Hot springs are found in many places. The island suffers at times from the effects of tremendous earthquakes, which destroy massive buildings, rend asunder the solid walls of Manila, and shake the mountain in the ocean, to its centre. The volcanoes, also, overwhelm whole villages with ashes, stones, sand, and water; making steril, verdant fields; carrying ruin within its influence, and destroying the hopes of the poor husbandman. It is subject also to desolating typhoons or hurricanes, sweeping in their erratic course, hundreds of slight-built huts, prostrating the largest trees, dismasting or foundering at their anchor, numerous vessels, and driving on shore or wrecking others, for nothing moveable at times can withstand these mighty winds. The hopes of the planter are also, in a few hours, destroyed by devastating clouds of locusts, which infest the land, devouring in their course every green thing.
Possessing a humid and warm atmosphere, the soil naturally yields an abundance of the necessaries of life, but the seasons generate many fatal diseases.
PASIG.
On Manila Sunday, (our Monday,) a party of eight, one beautiful morning, before sunrise, proceeded in three veloches (carriages of a certain description) to the village of Santa Anna, distant about three miles over a fine road and highly-cultivated country, where we embarked on board two large bankas of about eight-and-thirty feet in length, dug out of a tree, having a light bamboo-roof which could be elevated or depressed at pleasure, and paddled by four Indians. Between eight and nine o’clock, we arrived at the town of Pasig, situated about three miles from the entrance of the lake; the passage up was delightful—the land bordering on the river was low but well cultivated with rice, sugar-cane, &c., and fruit; it was one continuous village on either bank. Being a holyday, the natives were well and gayly dressed; hundreds of canoes passed us, laden with fish from the lake; others with fruit, vegetables, eggs, areca-nut and betel-leaf, beef, pork, fowls, ducks, geese, turkeys, cocoa-nut oil, molasses and sugar, cloth, of various kinds, baskets, mats, hats, &c., made of bamboo, all under cover of the moveable roof; they were paddled by anequal number of men and women, all apparently, in good spirits, and having always at hand a joke, to bandy with our canoe-men, in the Taga language; they were hurrying on to the great markets at Manila and Binonda, to dispose of their various articles. On the shores, men, women, and children were fishing with every sort of contrivance that can be named, in the shape of nets, hooks, and lines; some men with nets scraping up the mud from the bottom to obtain shrimps, which they found in great abundance; others taking very large craw-fish. Hundreds were bathing in the river, near the banks; whole families were seen together, from the grand-mother to the grand-daughter, washing their long black hair with vegetable soap, called by the natives gogo, being the inner-rind of a tree growing here in great plenty. Many of the palm and bamboo cottages were erected on piles close to the bank of the river, and some canoes were made fast to the ladder ready for any of the family to take an excursion, when they wished to go to the village-church, or to gossip with a neighbour and partake of his hospitalities, which consist of Burgo and a cigar, a fishing-party, a main of fighting-cocks or a boat-race. The fronts of the houses being open, all the operations of the various families could be distinctly seen. We met with many hotels, alias eating-shops, placed on piles some distance from the shore, where our boatmen stopped to obtain their breakfast, which consisted of rice, shrimp and other fish, in abundance, for which they paid about two cents per head. Many loungers were reposing on the bamboo-flooring, smoking or chewing burgo, flirting with the young damsels, who were indulging themselves in the same luxury as their beaux; at the same time, perhaps, combing out and oiling their hair, which generally reaches to the waist, and occasionally adjusting their tapa or outer-cloth, which is either of striped silk or cotton, extending halfway below the knee; some wore a nicely-laced embroidered muslin handkerchief on their heads and shoulders; their feet, or rather toes, are covered with scant and showy slippers, having no heels nor any quarters, cut down within an inch and a half of the end; these were well bespangled, and some of them bound with a stripe of gold or silver lace; they are only worn on special occasions, by particular individuals; a large proportion of the people go barefooted, or wear a high wooden shoe, plain or ornamented with brocaded or spangled-velvet, or gilt-leather. Every man who isable, wears shirts of the truly beautiful piña, or cloth made of the fibres of the pine-apple, which is manufactured on the island. The shirts, made from this cloth, as fine as cobweb-muslin, beautifully embroidered about the bosom, collar, and wristbands, are worn by all the Indians and Mestizoes, on the outside of the trousers; the latter are made of piña, or fine grass-cloth, (called siramaya,) according to the ability of the owner. As for stockings, they are about as useful to a young Tagalo girl, as knee-breeches to a Scotch-highlander.
Reclining on our gay pillow, stretched at ease, full length, on a clean mat, laid on a raised bamboo-floor, discussing the merits of cold roast fowl, ham, and tongue; a bottle of claret, and a bottle of porter for our breakfast, I thought there were not many persons in the world more comfortably situated for the time being. We stayed for a short time at the house of the alcade of Pasig, a native gentleman of Tagola parentage, and were hospitably invited to dinner. Having walked through the town, visited the church and bazar, (which we found well stocked with rice and fish,) we returned to the lake. The late heavy rains had so swollen its waters that our canoes were paddled across extensive paddy fields, where we met with others, fishing; we passed close to several large craft, having two masts but no bowsprits, with large mat sails, cables, and wooden anchors of various shapes. They were clumsily constructed and badly rigged, but gayly painted on their high bow-boards and on each quarter; the high stern was also painted with flowers and a figure of the patron-saint after which the vessel was named, in the gayest colours. There was nothing to be seen, on this part of the excursion, excepting a wide expanse of water; mountains and hills, in the distance, and fishing-snares placed in every direction. Game of various kinds abounds among the hills, affording fine hunting. Boa-constrictors and other reptiles may be found in abundance, and in the creeks, alligators of an immense size. In the lake there are said to be one hundred different varieties of fish; but it requires a week’s leisure, a suitable banka, with many et ceteras, to enjoy the manifold beauties with which this sheet of water is reputed to be surrounded. We were much amused when on our passage to the lake, in discovering, at a distance, a man floating with the stream and seated upright in the water; we were unable immediately to discover what supportedhim in that position, but shortly after we descried the projecting nose of an enormous carabou or Indian buffalo. The Indian appeared to be quite at his ease, sitting astride the ponderous animal, smoking one of the immense-sized cigars I have before mentioned, and which would last out a reasonable cruise. With the left hand he grasped the animal’s tail, to support him in the current, and a rope passed through the nose (the usual custom here) served to direct thefigure-headto any part to which he fancied to go. He was hailed by our Indians and asked where he was bound; he replied he was on his way to pay visits to some Señoritas down the river, and, subsequently, was going to Manila, to sell his carabou, (a distance of about ten miles.)
PATERO.
The scene was occasionally enlivened by the sound of a guitar, proceeding from a canoe or a cottage on the shore. Rafts of cocoa-nuts, containing many thousands, guided by a single man standing in the centre of them, holding a long pole, with other rafts, of bamboo and timber, were constantly passing us. On our return from the lakes we visited several small streams on the left hand of the river, on which is situated an extensive village called Patero, alias Duck-town—a very appropriate name for the place, for I never before saw so many ducks together; the cottages were standing very near to each other, and thousands of these birds were feeding on the river, being secured by a slight fence made of bamboo. Raising ducks and fishing seemed to be the only employment. Every thing about the inhabitants wore a rustic appearance, which was heightened, in a certain degree, by the plantain and mango trees, overshadowing their picturesque habitations: some were washing clothes in the stream, others, cooking in the open air—many were stretched out at full length, asleep; children were hanging in cots under the shadowy branches of the trees, soothed by gentle breezes which rocked them to sleep—others, of a larger growth, in a state of nudity, were playing with the ducks, sailing mimic boats, or makingdirt-puddings—not a few in number were diverting themselves with cock-fighting—others were endeavouring to make a little musick, and some were playing the game of draughts, with small stones. A portion of the young Indian girls (Tagalos) were decorating or anointing their pretty persons—others were paddling about in small canoes, which they would occasionally upset to create a hearty laugh andthen, like dripping Naiads, again scrambling into them, would repeat the same frolic. This village, or a succession of villages, extends several miles along various outlets from the main river, from which no portion of it can be seen, being completely hidden by the trees on the banks; it contained, in 1818, three thousand, eight hundred and forty inhabitants, all Indians; at this period, 1834, it has, probably, four thousand, five hundred souls.
We returned to the hospitable alcade’s house about two, being only a couple of miles from Patero, where we found a sumptuous dinner, consisting of not less than twelve dishes of fish and meat, with a variety of sweetmeats, fruit and coffee, (but no wine or spirits,) and then cigars and buyo, for those who chose them. We did ample justice to this repast, although nearly burnt up with a hot sun. This town, or rather cluster of villages, is inhabited wholly by Indians, principally Tagalos, and contained in 1818, twelve thousand, one hundred and forty souls; at the present period, it has probably a population of fifteen thousand; the houses are mostly built of bamboo and palm, and stand on piles. In violent typhoons it is found necessary to secure them with ropes, passed over the roofs, and fastened to strong posts. Their elevation on piles is found a necessary security against the lake, which occasionally, after violent rains, spreads its wide stream over all the lowlands bordering upon it. The inhabitants raise cane and rice in large quantities, with some wheat, Indian corn, fruits, &c. Fishing, more or less, is the occupation of every one; they, apparently, live in great simplicity and comfort, wanting nothing. A considerable quantity of sugar is made here, there being several extensive buildings for that purpose. Having taken leave of our kind host, we proceeded down the river to Manila, and again were much delighted with the richness, beauty and variety of the scenery. The mango with its umbrageous arms, affording a delightful shade to the weary traveller—the plantain and the banana, disputing every foot of ground, on the banks of the river, the tall and graceful bamboo overtopping every thing around it—extensive fields of cane, waving gently their green leaves to the passing breeze, with fields of paddy, exhibiting the green spiral leaf of the plant above the flooded meadows; numberless cottages were seen, deeply seated in the midst of luxuriant fruit-trees, and a massive church or convent was always in view, in some delightful spot. Againwe met Indians, of both sexes, fishing or bathing, going upon a water-excursion, or to a ball, to chew buyo, to have a little chit-chat or scandal with a neighbour, or visit a holy friar of a neighbouring convent. These rapid and varied scenes, with our agreeable company, afforded us much pleasure as we lay in our bankas, enjoying the rapid passing views, which lapse of years cannot efface, exhibiting a rural picture of great simplicity and beauty; the principal actors being a race of Indians noted for the mildness of their tempers and for their great hospitality.
DEPARTURE FROM MANILA—CHOLERA—CAPE BOLINA—CHINESE VESSELS—PILOT—MACAO—LINTING—VILLAGE—WHAMPOA—JOS HOUSES—SACRIFICE—ARRIVAL AT CANTON—RIVER AND BOATS—DESCRIPTION OF CANTON—GREAT IDOL TEMPLE—LEGEND OF THE JOS HOUSE—RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES—MINOR TEMPLES.
DEPARTURE FROM MANILA—CHOLERA—CAPE BOLINA—CHINESE VESSELS—PILOT—MACAO—LINTING—VILLAGE—WHAMPOA—JOS HOUSES—SACRIFICE—ARRIVAL AT CANTON—RIVER AND BOATS—DESCRIPTION OF CANTON—GREAT IDOL TEMPLE—LEGEND OF THE JOS HOUSE—RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES—MINOR TEMPLES.
We had spent a fortnight most pleasantly at Manila, when the painful intelligence was received, that the Asiatic or spasmodic cholera had suddenly made its appearance on board the Peacock. It has been already stated that the diarrhœa and dysentery were prevalent among the crew, on the passage from Angier to Manila. These diseases were ascribed, among other causes, to the want of bread and the substitution of yams, &c. The cholera could not have arisen from any want of cleanliness, for our ship, from her keelson to her royal truck, was kept thoroughly clean and in the finest order, both at sea and in port. The united causes which produced this malady were, probably, change of food, the great quantities of fruit used by the crew, and the arrival of the season of the year, (about the change of the monsoons in the bay,) which is generally unhealthy. The first case was in a sailor, named Peterson, sixty-three years old. He had made a hearty meal on bean soup, with pork, and about an hour afterward the first symptoms made their appearance; the evacuations became copious, coldness and insensibility supervened; the pulse became scarcely perceptible; the countenance livid, ghastly, and sunken; spasms attacked the lower extremities; and the surface was covered with a cold, clammy sweat. The surgeon administered six grains of opium, in three doses; bad symptoms increasing, fifteen drops of cajeput oil were given in brandy and water, and repeated in half an hour. After the last dose of opium there were no evacuations, but the spasms had increased, extended to the abdominal muscles, and caused such extreme distress, that it required three or four men to hold the sufferer in his hammock; his groanings and screamings were violent and frightful. In three or four hours thespasms ceased. Notwithstanding the internal and external use of the most powerful stimulants, the prostration increased, and, at four o’clock in the morning, he was happily relieved from all the pains and troubles of this life. Another case, was that of a seaman, named North; he was found at eight o’clock in the evening, lying on deck, totally unable to rise, from extreme prostration. Death had, apparently, struck an instantaneous and a heavy blow; the victim was already clutched in its most loathsome and terrific embraces; the evacuations were of the usual character; in a few minutes, the pulse was scarce perceptible; the surface, cold and covered with a viscid perspiration; the countenance, dreadfully sunken, livid, and cadaverous; respiration became laborious, and the sufferer was tortured with severe spasms, in all his limbs and the abdominal muscles, which caused indescribable distress. Notwithstanding every known remedy was applied, the spasms became more general and severe; the respiration more difficult; the distress more insupportable; the prostration increased until insensibility supervened, and death finally closed the terrific scene, eleven hours after the attack. I have selected but two, out of many cases, which will serve to show the terrific and appalling effects produced by one of the greatest scourges that ever visited the world.
Finding the disease fast spreading, and fearful that it might sweep off a large portion of the crew, orders were given to get the ship ready for sea, when sufficient provisions could be obtained, and to seek a more salubrious air and the chances of health, in the China sea. To be compelled to leave a comparatively healthy and pleasant abode on shore, for a floating hospital, tainted with a highly infectious atmosphere, was painful and dangerous, but such was our lot; for thirty sick-hammocks were slung on the starboard side of the gun-deck, when we weighed anchor, and a panic was visible in the countenances of nearly the whole crew. We finally, lost seven men, but many of those who were attacked and recovered, suffered from impaired constitutions, became the victims to other diseases, and eventually died.
We got under way towards sunset, on the second of November, and having passed close under the stern of his Britannic majesty’s ship Alligator, to take leave of Captain Lambert, her amiable and worthy commander, together with our friends, Messrs. Strachan, Sturges, and Edwards, of Manila, who were assembled on herquarter-deck for that purpose, the British flag being run up at our main; during this exchange of friendly salutations, we filled away with a fine breeze, and in about three hours, passed the island of Correjidor, and stood out to sea. For the two following days the wind was very light; on the third, we made cape Bolina.
CHINESE VESSELS.
Returning health was very visible among the crew in this short space of time: no new case of cholera occurred after we inhaled the invigorating and healthy ocean air. On the fifth day ourbarbarian eyeswereblessedwith a sight of thecelestial empire, consisting of several islands. Seventy or eighty miles from land, we fell in with a great number of fishing junks, of clumsy construction, having the appearance of the antediluvian vessels exhibited in the old bibles, with mat or bamboo sails; they were always observed in pairs, having whole families of the “celestials” in them, dressed in the ordinary garb of common, dirty fishermen; generally without any covering to the head—but little to the back, and that in a most filthy condition. When within two leagues of the Lemma or Ladrone islands, a junk lowered her sails close to us, and in about five minutes, two of the “heavenly creatures” came on board, in a small skiff, offering themselves as pilots, being as guiltless of any knowledge of our language as we were of theirs; they were dressed in tan-coloured jackets and immense wide breeches, or rather petticoat trousers, reaching just below the knee, and wearing a greasy woollen cap—shirts have never been in fashion with them. They were very uncleanly in their persons, stout built, and healthy. Having stepped on board, the first words they uttered, were, “Capetany me peloto—you wanty peloto?” “Yes,” said the captain. “How muchy, how muchy, capetany, you gib?” taking at the same time, from the waistband of his trousers, twenty Chinese cash, and counting them in his hand, he said, “Dollar, dollar, so muchy, so muchy.” The captain counted out one half the number, which was the usual pilotage to Macao roads. The “celestial” then added three to the number, making thirteen, and the bargain was made, he not forgetting to ask, as is usual, for a bottle of samshew, (rum,) which he snugly stowed away in his bosom. Scarcely had he taken half a dozen strides up and down the deck, and pointed to steer more to port, before he asked for chow, chow, meaning something to eat, which, to his astonished eyes, was furnished forthwith, in a lordly dish, on a chest on the quarter-deck. He pointed occasionally tostarboard or larboard, through the labyrinths of islands. In the course of four or five hours we anchored under the mountainous island of Lautavee, during the night. The pilot, having received his money next morning, with a countenance indicative of extreme happiness, and ascertained carefully, that every dollar was good, took his leave, having been almost useless. I went over to Macao the next morning, passing through a fleet of sampans, (small boats,) navigated by damsels, that one might almost deem amphibious, in which dwell whole families, in a most miserable condition. I landed close to the quay, leading to the Beach Hotel, kept by Markwick, an Englishman, fronting on Pria Grande, a public walk, without trees, facing the outer harbour and islands. The ship finally anchored at Linting, (Ling-ting,) which is eighteen miles from Macao, and twenty-five from the Bogue, or mouth of the river. This island was scarcely inhabited till 1814, when, in consequence of a dispute between the British and Chinese, the company’s ships remained here for some time. Population increasing, supplies of vegetables and beef became plentiful, and induced American and other ships to make it a place of rendezvous; but the importation of opium being prohibited, both at Canton and Macao, at this time, the vessels engaged in importing that article, repaired to this anchorage, when they found every facility through Chinese boats, to smuggle or to purchase it. This was the origin of the opium go-downs, as they are technically called, or receiving ships, for this and other articles for the Canton market. There are now, in 1832, from seven to eight ships engaged in this illegal traffic. Among this number there is one American vessel, the Linting, and occasionally there are two. In the commencement of the northeast monsoon, in October, ships repair to this place, where they usually lie to the end of April; when the southwest monsoon commencing, they remove to the north end of the island, where they stay six weeks, and then remove to Cap-sin-moon, (Cap-shuy-moon,) a more secure, but less convenient anchorage.[†]There are now six villages in Linting; in 1814, there were not more than sixty persons on the island; in 1821, not quite two thousand, and now, the estimate is upward of five thousand.
We found here, at anchor, about thirty sail of fine English andAmerican ships. The next afternoon we landed on Linting, with a small party, at a miserable filthy village. From the hills, on the back part of the village, we obtained an extensive view of the bay, the extended surface of which was dotted with thousands of boats. The islands around are miserably barren, worn into deep furrows, along their broken, hilly sides; and, excepting a few terraces, formed along their base, on which upland rice and a few vegetables are grown, have altogether a desolate appearance. When we entered the village, (containing about twenty or thirty huts,) every man, woman, and child, turned out to see the barbarian ladies and gentlemen. A more ragged, filthy assemblage was, perhaps, never before seen. We hurried through, obliging them not to press too closely upon us, fearful some of their old acquaintance, apparently the rightful inheritors of their persons, might, contrary to our wishes, transfer themselves to us. The next evening, Captain Geisinger and myself went to Whampoa. Nothing worthy of notice took place on our passage, excepting that sacrifice was made at every Jos House we passed, by burning sacred paper at the bows of the boat, so that we might be favoured with a fair wind. The same ceremony was performed with the boats passing down, so that the god, or jos, was completely puzzled; and therefore it was occasionally calm. The wind, to show the impartiality of its director, would, at times, blow down the Taho, or Tigris, against us, then die away, and give us a partially fair wind.
As soon as the captain of the boat found it was coming aft, he placed some oranges before a hideous painted god, in the little altar, which all boats, ships, and shops, possess, lighted it up well, put some odoriferous matches in a vessel of sand, and set them on fire. “Now,” said he, “we sail hab fair win. Spose me tak care for Jos, Jos tak care for me.” I really thought the bargain a fair one; and both parties held honestly to their agreement, for we had a fair wind the remainder of the passage; but Jos, having a bad appetite, we “turned to” and eat up his supper, very much to the discomfiture of the captain.