COURT CEREMONIES.
As our departure from hence will be for the kingdoms of Cochin-China, and Siam, to effect suitable commercial treaties with thosecountries, and as similar court ceremonies are there used as at the court of Pekin, I herewith present a memoir, written by a most worthy and highly respectable clergyman, the Reverend Doctor Morrison of Canton, upon the subject of court ceremonies, observed from the lower to the higher dignitaries throughout the Chinese empire, from the simple joining of the hands and raising them before the breast, to the climax of all that is debasing, the ceremony called theSan-kwei-kew-kow, or “kneeling three different times, and at each time knocking the head thrice against the ground.”—“What are called ceremonies, sometimes affect materially the idea of equality. They are not always mere forms, but revelations of a language, as intelligible as words. Some ceremonies are perfectly indifferent, as whether the form of salutation be taking off the hat and bowing the head, or keeping it on and bowing it low, with the hands folded below the breast; these, the one English, and the other Chinese, are equally good. There is, however, a difference of submission and devotedness, expressed by different postures of the body; and some nations feel an almost instinctive reluctance to the stronger expression of submission. Standing and bending the head, for instance, are less than kneeling on one knee, that is less so than kneeling on both knees; and the latter posture less humiliating than kneeling on two knees, and putting the hands and forehead to the ground; doing this once, is, in the apprehension of the Chinese, less than doing it three, six, or nine times.
“Waiving the question, whether it be proper for one human being to use such strong expressions of submission to another or not; when any, even the strongest of these forms are reciprocal, they do not destroy the idea of equality, or of mutual independence; if they are not reciprocally performed, the last of the forms expresses in the strongest manner, the submission and homage of one person or state to another; and, in this light, the Tartar family, now on the throne of China, consider the ceremony calledSan-kwei-kew-kowthrice kneeling, and nine times beating the head against the ground. Those nations of Europe who consider themselves tributary and yielding homage to China, should perform the Tartar ceremony; those who do not so consider themselves, should not perform it. The English ambassador, Macartney, appears to have understood correctly the meaning of the ceremony, and proposedthe only alternative which could enable him to perform it; viz., a Chinese of equal rank performing it to the king of England’s picture.
“Perhaps a promise from the Chinese court, that should an ambassador ever go from thence to England, he would perform it in the king’s presence, might have enabled him to do it. These remarks will probably convince the reader that the English government acts as every civilized government ought to act, when she endeavours to cultivate a good understanding, and liberal intercourse with China, while, using those endeavours, she never contemplates yielding homage, and wisely refuses to perform by her ambassador, that ceremony which is the expression of homage.
“The lowest form by which respect is shown in China at this day, iskung-show, that is, joining the hands and raising them before the breast. The next istsa-yih, that is, bowing low with the hands joined. The third ista-tseen, bending the knee as if about to kneel. The fourth iskwei, to kneel. The fifth isko-tow, kneeling and striking the head against the ground. The sixth,san-kow, striking the head three times against the earth before rising from the knees. The seventh,luh-kow, that is, kneeling and striking the forehead three times; rising on the feet, kneeling down again, and striking the head, again, three times on the earth. The climax is closed by thesun-kwei-kew-kow, kneeling three different times, and at each time knocking the head thrice against the ground. Some of the gods of China are entitled only to thesan-kow; others to theluh-kow; theteen(heaven) and the emperor, are worshipped with thesan-kwei-kew-kow.”
BEGGARS.
Beggarsare licensed by the government, confined within particular districts, and are under the control of certain officers. If any are found wandering beyond their designated limits, they are liable to be punished by the officer who has charge over them; in addition to this, they seldom escape being severely beaten by the mendicants whose district they invade. They are all registered, and receive a small monthly allowance of rice, which, together with the alms they obtain, barely suffices to keep them from starving. Great numbers die in the streets, in the winter, from cold and want of food, and are buried at the public expense. A beggar is seldom forcibly driven away from a door; for, should that occur, a complaint would be instantly made to the proper officer, and the offender would be punished, or besqueezed, as the Chinese term it, or mulct in a heavy fine. On the 28th November, 1832, public notice was given, for the beggars of a certain district, to assemble in front of the foreign factories, “upon important measures, touching the interests of the fraternity.” It was stated, that certain impostors, from other districts, had been guilty of the great crime of begging within their limits; and it was therefore necessary that the name of each person should be ascertained, that he might be brought before the proper officer for punishment, and be driven into his own proper district. Great numbers assembled, toward sunset, after the regular begging hours were over. I had the curiosity to visit thishorriblegroup of unfortunates for a few moments, and the recollection of the scene can never be effaced from my memory. The blind, halt, and lame, were there, of all ages and of both sexes; a more motley group, or a more disgusting spectacle, was never before seen. They were squalid and ragged, filthy, and covered with vermin. Many a blind Bartelmy, and many a Lazarus, were lying there, literally covered with sores. I returned home, sincerely thanking God that I was not thus wretched, and that I stood in no need of a temporal physician to cure me of any loathsome disease.
Blindness is a very common misfortune in China; it is said to be caused generally by depriving the head of almost its entire natural covering, by being closely shaven, and using no effectual guard to protect it from the extremes of the weather: none wear turbans, and but few hats or umbrellas; slight paper fans being in general use. We were informed, that many a child was made blind by the use of caustic, applied by its parents, or by those who purchased it, for the purpose of exciting compassion, in order to increase their gains in the practice of soliciting alms. There are few sights so ridiculously amusing, in the suburbs of Canton, as these untiring vagabonds: they are an excessive annoyance to shop-keepers: a stranger cannot walk without seeing a number of them assembled in the shop of some obstinate fellow, who apparently seems determined to tire them out.
I have frequently seen from three to six assembled, some sitting in the doorway, some lying down, and others standing at the counter, each of them beating most violently on two stout pieces of bamboo, and making a most insufferable noise.
Occasionally, a whole family of “singing beggars” are met with, making the most horrible discord, and singing at the very top of their voices; the rough music from marrow-bones, cleavers, and frying-pans, is vastly preferable to it. Again, others are seen, who are either more rich, or possess greater privileges of annoyance, being allowed to carry all sorts of musical instruments, viz.: a drum, secured to the waist; a small gong, suspended from the neck; and a trumpet, in the mouth. Now and then, a sturdy, self-willed shopman, would pay no attention to the vile pest: forthwith a loud thump was given on the drum, then a thundering noise from the gong, followed by a horrible blast from the trumpet. It would provoke the risibles of a saint, to see the gravity of countenance exhibited by both parties. The shopman, attending to his goods, apparently unconscious of the presence of the other, while the beggar is pursuing his vocation as though his very existence depended upon his making such a noise, as would awake the seven sleepers of Christendom. As no customer is willing to enter a shop where he cannot be heard, the master is at length, most unwillingly, compelled to give him one cash, (about the eight-hundredth part of a dollar;) if this should not be perfect in every respect, it is returned, and a good one absolutelydemanded, or a repetition of all that is horrible in discord, and all that is unbearable in vile sounds is repeated. So it proceeds from early dawn to setting-sun: as fast as one beggar-customer is gone, another and another make their appearance; but the donor can expel them if they call oftener than once a day.
CAT AND DOG MARKET.
Near the entrance of Old China-street, between Minqua’s hong, and the American hong of Messrs. Oliphant & Co., called, “Kwan yueng hang,” or, “The factory of wide fountains,” (where I had the pleasure of spending a couple of months,) there is the mart for the sale of cats and dogs. The venders regularly meet, daily, from one to three, (high-change hoursbeing about two.) Here may be seen, arranged along the pavement in regular order, baskets and cages of these animals, the latter being used for poor puss only, who seemed always to be out of place.
Being within a half dozen steps of the venders, I overlooked them from the balcony, and saw their daily operations; and, as trifling as it may seem to others, I acknowledge that I was much amused with the examinations that the poor animals underwent.Poor puss, as a sailor would say, was “thoroughly overhauled, from clue to ear-ring,” to see if she was sound in health; if she had a handsome, smooth, glossy coat, suitable for ornamenting some garment; if she was free from “cow-licks,” or the hair growing the wrong way; if her limbs were sound, and suitable for making penny whistles, and other small articles; and if she was plump, well-fatted, fit for culinary purposes, and not blown out by injecting air into the body: a common Chinese trick, and which is not tolerated byfair, grave merchants. Young she-cats were preferred for breeders, and commanded double the price of tom-cats. The puppies (for there were but few full grown dogs offered for sale) were likewise thoroughly examined, to ascertain if their outward garment was in good condition—if they were fat, sleek, free from a musky or strong smell, and fit to make a rich press-soup, of which the Chinese are extravagantly fond; if their limbs were sound and not distorted, and if they were the true Chinese breed of prick-eared curs, having black palates and black tongues, with a well-curved feathery tail. The sluts brought generally, I found, more than double the price of the males. The pedigree (being an important matter always in monarchical governments) was also particularly inquired into.
It may perhaps, by some, be thought that I have been unnecessarily particular in making the above statements, in reference to an insignificant portion of the brute creation; but, as I was anxious to give every particular in reference to the internal, as well as external commerce of China, the reader will perhaps excuse the detail given above.
I cannot take my leave of the canine species, without relating a provoking loss which befel Dr. M. B—ghs, of Philadelphia, during my stay in China. The gentleman had purchased, at a high price, a fine pup, on Change, for the purpose of carrying it to the United States. The dog being rather troublesome in running about the house, he told a Chinese servant, who spoke English, to tie him up. The doctor went out, as usual, in search of curiosities, such as rare birds, &c., which he skinned and prepared. On his return, he inquired of the servant if he had tied up the dog and secured him. “Yez,” said he, “hab done, hab done.” Well, said the doctor, where is he “Up loom, up loom,” meaning up in the doctor’s room; for a China-man cannot pronounce the letterr. He immediately ushered the way up stairs, threw open the chamber-door suddenly, and exhibited the dog tied up, but strangled, having hung him! “Can do? can do?” said he, with an air perfectly unconscious of having done wrong. “Can do?” said the doctor, echoing back his words in a tone which indicated any thing rather than satisfaction, “I wish you were there tied up in his stead.”
In front of the foreign factories, there are assembled regularly, every morning, at an early hour, the “Barbers,” with their basins and snug seats, for the use of their customers. They wield a very short, clumsy razor, having a round wooden handle, without a particle of superfluous wood about it: the blade is two and a half inches long, one and a half inches broad at the end, and tapering to less than half an inch toward the handle; it is three eighths of an inch in thickness, for about an inch and a half of its length; the handle is of wood, round, and three eighths of an inch in diameter, and the length of the instrument is six inches.
Strict economy is observed in shaving; water only being used to soften the hair. The head is shaved, leaving only a long lock, which is plaited or braided, and if the tail fails to reach the heels, it is eked out with black riband. Generally speaking, all the hair is shaved from the face, nose, and theeye-lids; for a China-man will always have the full worth of his money, although he pays but three or four cash (equal to about a half cent) to the operator; the eyebrows are then adjusted, and the hair eradicated from the ears and nostrils with tweezers; the nail and corn cutter is then resorted to, who repairs and polishes the nails of the hands and feet: the China-man is in prime order—a small scull-cap, or palm-leaf pointed hat, is then put on, or he protects his head with an ordinary looking paper fan, having on it some moral sentences. At ten and at four he goes to his dark hole, where he exercises his “chop-sticks” with great dexterity, regaling himself with rice and vegetables, deluged with the fat of pork, if he can obtain it. A draught of water, and a dram of shewhing, (arrack,) a pipe of tobacco, and a piece of areca-nut, place him at once among the celestials; but if to these, a pipe or two of refined opium be added, not that exquisite of all pleasures, in the opinion of the country bumpkin, of swinging on a gate all day, and eating bountifully of mush and molasses, can bear any comparison with this care-killing and unparalleled pleasure.
Of all uncouth figures, that strut their little hour upon the stage of life, a China-man is surely the most grotesque animal. A loose shirt for his outer and principal garment—his bagging breeks, added to his white slouching stockings, made of cotton cloth, filled with wrinkles—his black cloth slippers, with a white sole half an inch thick—his shaved head, with his long plaited cue, streaming out when he runs, like a ship’s pennant in a brisk breeze—his elongated and stupid eyes; a fan in one hand, and a long wooden pipe in the other—his enormous spectacles, without bows, astride on the tip of his nose, and his mouth upon the full gape, standing for hours in front of the factory of “wide fountains,” looking at the fan-kweis, (the foreign white devils,) present him as the most unprepossessing figure ever beheld—the most awkward looking biped in the universe.
SLAVERY.
Chang-ling, the great hero of Cashgar, has memorialized his majesty, and informed him, that, during the late attack of the rebels on that city, they endeavored to inundate it by cutting a channel and entering the course of the adjoining river; but the Lung-shin, (Dragon-god,) who presides over rivers and seas, prevented the design from being effected. For this “divine manifestation” in favour of the imperial cause, the emperor has ordered anew titleto be given to the god, anew templeto be built, and anew tablettoadornit. Slavery, in China, presents its worst features; the children of the slaves are born slaves; and the children of free masters enjoy their rights over them throughout all generations. There have been cases in which the masters have become poor, and allowed their slaves to go and provide for themselves; they have become rich, but being again found by their masters, the latter have seized all the property. There are slaves of another class, who are not bought outright, but with the condition that they may be redeemed. Good masters admit the claim, when made agreeably to contract; but bad ones use every expedient to prevent the claim of redemption.
CLIMATE OF CANTON AND MACAO—METEOROLOGICAL AVERAGES—DEPARTURE FROM CANTON FOR MACAO AND LINTING—MACAO—POPULATION—SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONY.
CLIMATE OF CANTON AND MACAO—METEOROLOGICAL AVERAGES—DEPARTURE FROM CANTON FOR MACAO AND LINTING—MACAO—POPULATION—SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONY.
CLIMATE.
The coast of China being similarly situated to that of the United States, having a vast continent stretching from the south and northwest to the northeast, possesses a climate nearly of the same character and temperature. From the gulf of Tung-hing to the vicinity of Canton, it may well be compared to the coast stretching from the Mississippi to North Carolina, and the coast extending from Canton to that of Tartary, to the states from North Carolina to Maine.
The climate of Peking is salubrious, and like that of the middle and northern states of the union. The water is frozen from December until March. Violent storms occur in the spring; the heat in summer is great, and the autumnal months of September, October and November are the most pleasant part of the year. But my principal object is to delineate the climate of Canton and Macao, which lie between the latitudes of twenty-two and twenty-three north; the statement is copied from the Canton Register. I have added thereto several tables of meteorological averages. Canton is regarded by the Chinese, as one of the most unhealthy portions of their country, yet it is a more healthy climate than that of most other places, situated in the same degree of latitude.
The weather during the month of January, is dry, cold, and bracing, differing but little, if at all, from the two preceding months, November and December. The wind blows generally from the north, occasionally inclining to northeast or northwest. Any change to the south, causes considerable variation in the temperature of the atmosphere.
During the month ofFebruarythe thermometer continues low; but the dry, bracing cold of the three preceding months is changed for a damp and chilly atmosphere: the number of fine days is much diminished, and cloudy or foggy weather of more frequent recurrence in February and March than in any other months. At Macao, the fog is often so dense as to render objects invisible at a few yards’ distance.
The weather in the month ofMarch, as stated above, is damp and foggy; but the temperature of the atmosphere becomes considerably warmer. To preserve articles from damp, it is requisite to continue the use of fires and closed rooms, which the heat of the atmosphere renders very unpleasant. From this month the thermometer rises until July and August, when the heat is at its maximum.
The thick fogs which begin to disappear towards the close ofMarch, are, in April, seldom if ever seen. The atmosphere, however, continues damp, and rainy days are not unfrequent; the thermometer at the same time, gradually rises, and the nearer approach of the sun, renders its heat more perceptible. In this, and the following summer months, southeasterly winds generally prevail.
In the month ofMay, summer is fully set in, and the heat, particularly in Canton, is often oppressive; the more so from the closeness of the atmosphere, the winds being usually light and variable. This is the most rainy month in the year, averaging fifteen days and a half of heavy rain; cloudy days, without rain, are, however, of unfrequent occurrence; and one half of the month averages fine sunny weather.
Juneis also a very wet month, yet, taking the aggregate, the number of rainy days is less than in the other summer months. The thermometer in this month rises several degrees higher than in May, and falls but little at night. It is this latter circumstance chiefly, which occasions the exhaustion often felt in this country from the heat of summer.
The month ofJulyis the hottest in the year, the thermometer reaching eighty-eight in the shade, at noon, both at Canton and Macao. This month is also subject to frequent heavy showers of rain, and, like the month of August, to storms of thunder and lightning. The winds blow almost unintermittingly from southeast or south.
In the month ofAugustthe heat is generally as oppressive as in July, and often more so, although the thermometer usually stands lower. Towards the close of the month, the summer begins to break up, the wind occasionally veering from southeast, to north and northwest. Typhoons seldom occur earlier than this month or later than the end of September.
InSeptemberthe monsoon is generally broken up, and northerly winds begin to blow, but with little alleviation of heat. This is the period most exposed to the description of hurricanes called typhoons, the range of which extends southward, over about one half of the Chinese sea, but not far northward; they are most severe in the gulf of Tonquin.
Northerly winds prevail throughout the month ofOctober, occasionally veering to northeast or northwest; but the temperature of the atmosphere is neither so cold nor dry as in the following months, nor does the northerly wind blow so constantly, a few days of southerly wind frequently intervening. The winter usually sets in with three or four days of light drizzling rain.
November, and the following months, are the most pleasant in the year, at least to the feelings of persons from more northern climes. Though the thermometer is not often below forty, and seldom so low as thirty, the cold of the Chinese winter is often very severe. Ice often forms about one eighth of an inch thick; but this is usually in December or January.
The months ofDecemberandJanuaryare remarkably free from rain; the average fall, in each month, being under one inch; and the average number of rainy days being only three and a half. On the whole, the climate of Canton, but more especially of Macao, may be considered superior to that of most other places situated between the tropics.
Tables of observations on the thermometer and barometer for the year 1831. The averages at Canton are taken from the Canton Register. The averages at Macao, from a private diary, kept by Mr. Blettersnan.
Table I.Thermometer at Canton.Table II.Thermometer at Macao.Table III.Barometer at Canton.Table IV.Barometer at Macao.aver. noon.aver. night.highest.lowest.aver. 7 a. m.aver. 2 p. m.highest.lowest.mean height.highest.lowest.mean height.highest.lowest.Jan.645074296265725330.2230.5030.0030.2630.5030.05Feb.574978385959714930.1330.5029.6030.1330.4029.97March726082446669775530.1730.5029.9530.2030.4830.05April776886557375836630.0330.2529.8530.0830.2729.93May787288647778857129.9230.1029.8029.9530.0629.85June857990748284897429.8830.0029.7529.9230.0029.85July888194798488928129.8330.0029.6029.8730.0129.60Aug.857890758285907929.8530.0029.5529.8830.0229.56Sept.837688708184887629.9130.1029.7029.9130.0529.35Oct.776985577578866130.0130.2029.5030.0330.1929.45Nov.675780406568805730.1630.5529.9530.1430.3629.95Dec.625270456265705730.2330.3530.1530.2330.3130.15
The average of rain is the mean of its fall at Macao, during sixteen years, furnished by Mr. Beale. The number of rainy days and continuance of winds, are the mean of four years at Canton, taken from the Canton Register.
Table V.Hygrom. at Macao.Table VI.Rain at Canton.Table VII.Continuance of Winds at Canton, the mean of four years.average.high.low.mean quantity in inches.mean number of rainy days.days.N.NE.E.SE.S.SW.W.NW.Jan.7695460.6¾3½1122¼440½07Feb.8296761.77111½2¼5¼1½0¼06¼March7897302.1½65¾1¾3¾10¾2½00½3April8195505.6¾106¼1414¾10½03½May81955711.8½15½4¾2½3½16¼1¼0¼0¼2½June80957011.191¾0¾221¼30¾00½July8396707.7½101¼11¾2131¾0¼1Aug.8497709.912½323181¼0¼0½3Sept.84955010.9¼1010⅜43⅛8¾0002¾Oct.7595205.55123¼3⅛5⅞1¾0½0⅛5¾Nov.6196202.4½3230½0⅜1¼1⅞003Dec.7190300.9¾3½18½2⅞1⅛22¾00⅛3⅝
After remaining nearly two months at Canton, I took passage in a fine cutter, under English colours, for Macao, via Linting, and anchored in about twenty-four hours, within half a mile of the landing, at Pria Grande. Immediately on our nearing the harbour, a race took place among the amphibious damsels that inhabit the numerous sampans, tanka or egg-boats, which always lie within a short distance of the shore. Whole families inhabit them, and they are extremely encumbered with children, and the various articles used by the family. Their length is from twelve to eighteen feet, and the breadth is about one half the length. They have oval,sliding roofs, made of bamboo or mats, in two or three sections, which are extended occasionally the whole length of the boat. The occupants are extremely poor and miserable; they wear slight dresses, consisting of a long frock and trousers, of tan-coloured cotton. Except when heavy gales prevail, they rarely sleep on shore.
MACAO.
The town of Macao presents a pretty appearance from the roadstead. A spacious semi-circular bay is encompassed with hills, crowned with forts, convents, churches, and private buildings: the houses being kept well whitewashed, it gives the town quite a neat appearance. The streets are generally narrow, but they are exceedingly so through the Chinese bazar, &c., not exceeding, perhaps, six or eight feet. Most of the houses are built in the Portuguese style; but the Chinese houses are, with very few exceptions, dark, filthy, and uncomfortable. Macao is the summer residence of the foreign merchants of Canton; and it is reputed to be one of the most immoral places in the world. It is a rocky peninsula, about eight English miles in circumference; its greatest length is about three, and its breadth less than one mile. It forms part of the island of Heong-shan-nne, and was renowned, long before the Portuguese were settled there, for its safe and commodious inner harbour, and a temple consecrated to Ama. This settlement was formerly called Amangas, that is, the port of Ama; and first took the name of A-macao; but, in time, the first letter was suppressed, and the place has ever since been called Macao by the Portuguese, and Moon by the Chinese. The Portuguese hadtemporaryabodes at this place, for about twenty years, by giving bribes to the authorities to erect huts, under the false pretext of drying damaged goods, until they were expelled by mal-conduct, in 1558, from Ningpa and Chinchew, when they induced the local officers of Macao, by their old system of bribery, to erect permanent dwellings.
POPULATION OF MACAO.
The population from that time, rapidly increased; a temporary government was established, and a great influx of priests followed. In the year 1573, the wall across the isthmus was erected by the Chinese government, to prevent thekidnapping of children, as well as the sale of them by their wretched parents to over-zealous missionaries, who adopted every means, however infamous, to make converts to their religion, and to prevent the ingress of theChinese; but it has been long disregarded by the latter. The wall is now in a ruinous state near the bay, being partly broken down by the encroachment of the sea; but still no foreigners are allowed to cross it; and all provisions must come to the gate, where a market is still held at daybreak.
It was supposed by the world, that Portugal exercised sovereign authority over Macao, till 1802, when a British military detachment arrived and offered to defend it, in conjunction with the Portuguese, against an apprehended attack from the French; knowing if they obtained possession of it, the British commerce with Canton would be destroyed: the Portuguese governor could not accept of their assistance, because the Chinese authorities would not permit it. In 1808, although a British force obtained possession of three forts, by the connivance of the Macao government, the Chinese authorities ordered them to quit their territories, or they would put a stop to the British trade at Canton, and drive the Portuguese from Macao, for suffering foreign troops to land there, without first obtaining permission of the emperor. Macao, therefore, is still part of the Chinese empire. This is acknowledged by the Portuguese, who still pay an annual ground-rent, which has varied at different times, but is now limited to five hundred taels. The Portuguese and Chinese are both governed by their respective laws and officers; but in case of collision between two persons of the different nations, the Chinese always dictate to the former in what way the affair must be settled. For fifty or sixty years, the Portuguese enjoyed the exclusive trade to China and Japan. In 1717, and again in 1732, the Chinese government offered to make Macao the emporium for all foreign trade, and to receive all duties on imports; but, by a strange infatuation, the Portuguese government refused, and its decline is dated from that period. In 1686, when all vessels of the Chinese empire were prohibited from navigating the southern sea, their shipping and commerce declined rapidly, till, in 1704, only two ships remained, which could neither be manned nor fitted out. This prohibition was, some time after, annulled. The vessels that belonged to the port in 1832, consisted of only fifteen, (being ten less than is allowed by the Chinese government;) their united tonnage being four thousand five hundred and sixty-nine tons. In 1833, the number had diminished to twelve. These vessels are principallychartered for foreign ports by Chinese adventurers, the owners generally being destitute of means to load them. The whole income from the customs, in 1830, was only sixty-nine thousand one hundred and thirty-eight taels; and of this sum, thirty thousand one hundred and thirty-two taels were paid on one thousand eight hundred and thirty-three and a half chests of opium. The disbursements were: to the military, twenty-nine thousand six hundred and twenty-two; civil servants, twenty-four thousand four hundred and seventy; and to the church establishment, eight thousand seven hundred and thirty. The extraordinary expenses were forty-six thousand six hundred and twenty-nine, making a deficiency of about forty thousand eight hundred taels, which must be supplied from Goa. The population of Macao was estimated, in 1830, at four thousand six hundred and twenty-eight, viz.: one thousand two hundred and two white men; two thousand one hundred and forty-nine white women; three hundred and fifty male slaves; seven hundred and seventy-nine female slaves; and thirty-nine men, and one hundred and eighteen women, of different castes, who are all Roman Catholics. The Chinese population is estimated at thirty thousand. The European Portuguese consist of only sixty-two persons.
Macao is walled on one side, and has six forts; twelve churches, including the church and college of St. Joseph; five small chapels, and one Budhist temple: without the walls are three additional temples. There is one school, where children are taught to read and write correct Portuguese, (for this language, as spoken at Macao, is exceedingly corrupt;) and another, where the Portuguese and Latin grammar are taught. These are supported by royal bounty. There are an English opthalmic hospital, and a small museum.
I visited aBudhist temple, facing the inner harbour, situated in the midst of a number of large rocks, trees being seen growing out of their crevices. It was really composed of a number of small temples, seated on terraces, communicating with each other by means of steps cut out of the rock. All the buildings, wall, and steps, leading to it, are of hewn granite, very neatly wrought, and having ornamental work, finished in a masterly manner. This temple is a place of great resort for mariners; and near the landing, are various offerings of anchors, ropes, and spars. The devotees were constantly passing in and out from the temple to the priests’ houses, seated in a court. There were several priests in attendance, and others were lounging about the altars, with some old women, who appeared to be attached to the premises. This temple is called “Neang-ma-ho,” a temple of the “Queen of heaven.” The origin of it is said to be this: A number of Fokein fishermen were about sailing from that province, when a lady made her appearance, and told them they would all be lost in a storm, unless they deferred it for some days. They paid no heed to her advice, (excepting the crew of one boat,) and they were all lost in a “ta-fung-pao,” or “great tempest.” The lady embarked on board the remaining boat, when the storm had subsided, and safely landed near to the spot where the temple now is; from that moment she was never seen again. She is esteemed as holy, and is invoked as the protectress of all Chinese mariners.
I here witnessed a piece of superstition, which reminded me of drawing lots, or cards, or opening the Bible in search of a cheering text of Scripture, which is practised by superstitious people, in someChristiancountries, forgood luck. It was this: Many Chinese, of both sexes, drew from a box on an altar, after considerable hesitation, a bamboo slip, having Chinese characters marked on the end; which, I was informed, was done by every one before they undertook any great enterprise, and often in the minor affairs of life. They were asking a sign from the gods; their request was to be answered favourably or not, by carrying the mark on the stick to the priest, and ascertaining what the corresponding mark decided. I went down near to the priest’s house, and saw many return with cheerful countenances, and a light, elastic step, having received a favourable decision; while others walked out very slowly and despondingly, as though good fortune and themselves had for ever parted company. The view of the inner harbour, from this spot, and the beautiful garden, in which is found the celebrated cave, as it is called, of Camoens, (which, by the by, is no cave, but a narrow passage between two very large masses of rock; and on their apex, is placed a summer-house,) is highly picturesque. The garden is extensive, and laid out in a picturesque style; most of the walks are chunamed, and it is suffering by neglect. The ascent to the higher grounds is steep; but I was amply repaid by the fine scenery which it disclosed.BIRDS.I had the pleasure of seeingthe celebrated aviary of Mr. Beale. There, for the first time, I saw one of the several species of the bird of Paradise; also the silver pheasant, mandarin ducks, and a great variety of the rarest birds, all in a most thriving condition, and under the immediate superintendence of their worthy owner.
BIRDS.
Mr. John R. Morrison, son of the Rev. Dr. Morrison, here joined me, for the purpose of acting in the capacity of Chinese translator, interpreter, and private secretary, on the mission to Cochin-China and Siam, and to return to China from Singapore.
SAILING FROM LINTING TO VUNG-LAM HARBOUR, IN THE PROVINCE OF FOOYAN, OR PHUYEN—GOVERNMENT OF SHUNDAI—ASSISTANT KEEPER OF VUNG-LAM—LETTERS TO THE KING OF COCHIN-CHINA—CATHOLIC PRIEST—DEPUTIES FROM SHUNDAI.
SAILING FROM LINTING TO VUNG-LAM HARBOUR, IN THE PROVINCE OF FOOYAN, OR PHUYEN—GOVERNMENT OF SHUNDAI—ASSISTANT KEEPER OF VUNG-LAM—LETTERS TO THE KING OF COCHIN-CHINA—CATHOLIC PRIEST—DEPUTIES FROM SHUNDAI.
After enduring several days of rainy and squally weather, we weighed anchor, and proceeded towards Turan bay, on the northern coast of Cochin-China, being the nearest and best point to hold communication with the capital, called Hué, from which it is distant about fifty miles; it being impossible to anchor off the bar of Hué during the northeast monsoon. The weather during the passage, with the exception of one day, was misty or rainy; and on the first day of January, 1833, we found ourselves off the bay of Turan: but the weather was very thick, with a heavy sea running, and the wind shifting nearly every half hour, from northwest to northeast.
Finding it unsafe to run nearer to the land, we endeavoured to hold our station, as well as we could, till the weather cleared up sufficiently to see our way in; but it continued nearly the same till the fifth, the wind remaining most of the time in the northwest quarter: daily we lost ground, by contrary winds, and a strong current setting to the southward and eastward along the coast. The very mountainous land about the bay, was first lost sight of; in two or three days following, the group of islands called Champella, or Cham Callao; afterward the island of False Champella. Finding ourselves at length drifted down to Pulo Cambir, and losing ground on every tack, we were under the unpleasant necessity of bearing away for the most suitable and nearest harbour, which was done at sunset on the fifth, calculating the distance to the united harbours of Shundai, Vung-chao, and Vung-lam, (represented by Horsburg to be very safe, and having sufficient depth of water,) atone hundred and twenty miles. The wind, during most of the night, was light from the northeast; and we had run, by the log accurately kept, at seven the next morning, a distance not exceeding seventy to seventy-five miles. At daybreak, the ship’s head was directed towards the coast, but not seeing any very conspicuous landmarks, we kept along shore till eight; having, within an hour, passed an island, and a group of small jagged rocks, standing so near the coast that we at first supposed the island to be part of the main land; it was, however, Pulo Cambir, lying to the north of our port of destination. Seeing, to the southward of us, a large fleet of fishing boats; a very high conical mountain, which we supposed must be mount Epervier; and the land, extending far to the eastward, which we were satisfied must be cape Averella, or Pagoda cape; and, at the same time, discovering the island of Maignia, a short distance to the southward of the harbour, we stood boldly in, and, at twelve, came to anchor, in six and a half fathoms water, in the fine harbour of Vung-lam;VUNG-LAM HARBOUR.the village of that name, bearing to the southwest, distant a mile and a half, and within three quarters of a mile of a small, uninhabited, and unnamed island, bearing south, called, by us, Peacock island. The beautiful harbour of Vung-chao, being open to our view, in the northeast, two miles distant; and the harbour, or roadstead, of Shundai, with Nest island, bearing east, about the same distance. It will be seen, by the distance per log, that we were currented along, in fifteen hours, fifty miles; nearly equal to three and a half miles per hour.
VUNG-LAM HARBOUR.
To the southward of Cambir, lies a sand-beach, extending up a rising ground, which, together with a more extensive plot near the southern entrance, but to the southward of the island of Maignia, assist, as a leading mark, in running in.
This is, truly, one of the finest harbours in the world, and free from all obstructions, save a rock, called the buoy rock, within one and a half miles of our anchorage, the top of which is above water.
The country around is apparently well cultivated, being laid out in small patches, resembling gardens. It is beautifully picturesque and bold, frequently running into hills, from one to fifteen hundred feet high; the verdure of which extends, in many places, to the water’s edge. The hand of the workman has here been busy on every spot susceptible of cultivation. Villages were seen amongthe palm-trees, near the sandy beaches, and on the cultivated swells of land, for many miles around us.
In the afternoon of the day on which we anchored, an old man came on board; though raggedly dressed and dirty, he appeared to be somewhat superior to the fishermen who brought him off. Not being offered a seat at first, he seemed rather disconcerted, and expressed a desire to leave; but, having learned that he was an official personage, he was invited down to the gun-deck, and there seated. Being interrogated more particularly, in relation to his rank in the village, he stated himself to be a Keep-tu (literally, assistant keeper) of Vung-lam and King-chow, and the principal person in the village; but that he had a superior, or commandant, at Shundai, under whom is also another officer of equal rank with himself.
In reply to questions about the names of places, he said that the southernmost, or principal town or village, was called Shun-dai; that the central one, opposite which we lay, is Vung-lam; that the most northern is Vung-chao. Shundai, he said, formed one part, and Vung-lam and Vung-chao, another. He was asked whether there were any fortifications on shore; and it was explained to him that a salute would be fired in honour of the king, if there were any guns on shore to return it. He said there was no fortification at Vung-lam, but that there was a fort at Shundai. He was then informed, that, on the next morning, a salute would be fired; which was accordingly done, with thirteen guns. Upon inquiring whether the vessel was come to trade, or for public business, he was informed that she was a ship of war, sent out by the President of the United States, containing a special envoy, with a letter for the King of Cochin-China. It was explained to him, also, that the envoy wished to go to the capital, as speedily as possible, in order to have an audience, and to present the President’s letter. He seemed desirous to have some written paper, which he might present to his superior: but no such paper was in readiness for him. It was told him, that the special agent would himself write to the capital, to announce his arrival, and desire an audience.
In order to obtain a better idea of what measures would be requisite, to expedite the application to Hué, various questions were asked respecting the government, &c. He stated that the government of Shundai and its dependancies, are immediately subordinate to the supreme provincial government of Fooyan (or Phuyen). That the provincial government consists of a Tongdok or governor who presides over two provinces, and is now in the adjoining province, to the north, a Bo chāng-sü, or treasurer and sub-governor, and Au-tat-sü, or judge; and that the seat of government is within a day’s journey. The name of the capital he said, is Tüa-tien-pu; that of the king is Ming-meng. Speaking of the capital, he said that the ship might return northward to it in three or four days. Attention to other points prevented any reply being made to this remark at the time, and it was afterward forgotten. He inquired the name of the envoy, and the number of men on board. He then took leave after having drunk a little wine. The old man was throughout lively and cheerful. As he wrote Chinese pretty well, it was easy to hold intercourse with him.
January sixth.Towards evening, a large party came on board, consisting of the old head-man of Vung-lam, who visited us yesterday, two persons despatched by the commandant of Shundai, and two Chinese interpreters, with a number of attendants anxious to satisfy their curiosity. The Chinese being able to speak the Mandarin as well as their own provincial dialect, (that of Canton,) conversation was kept up with greater facility than yesterday, little of it being held in writing. They stated that two officers of the ninth rank, deputed by the chiefs of the provincial government, had arrived about noon, and had sent them to ascertain where the ship was from, and what was the object in coming. They were answered that she was a ship of war, and sent by the President of the United States of America, and that she brought a special envoy, bearing a letter to the king of Cochin-China. They were told, also, that the envoy wished to repair speedily to the capital, and intended to send a letter himself to announce his arrival. They requested a written paper to enable them to report to their superiors. The following paper was therefore given them, in Chinese and English. After receiving it they returned to the shore:—
“This is a ship of war of the United States of America. This ship is called the Peacock. The captain’s name is David Geisinger. This ship has been sent here by the president of the United States, he wishing to form a treaty of friendly intercourse with the king of Cochin China.
“There is on board the ship a special envoy, Edmund Roberts,bearing a letter from the president of the United States, which he is to present personally to the king of Cochin-China. The number of persons on board, including both officers and men, is one hundred and sixty-six.
“The ship at first intended going into Tonquin bay, but not being able on account of the current, she came here.
“January sixth, 1833.”
Before they left, inquiries were made respecting provisions, and they were told, that it was desirable they should tell the people to bring things off to the ship to sell. They replied that the market was open to go and purchase any thing. On this occasion, as well as yesterday, no restriction was imposed on our visiting the shore, although to prevent offence being taken, they were informed that we should do so.
January seventh.This morning, the same party as yesterday came off again, with the addition of the two deputies from the seat of government, and their retinue, consisting of umbrella-bearers, trumpeters, and sword-bearers. The two deputies appeared anxious to make as much as possible of themselves. They ran over various questions of the same nature as those put by their precursors; which having been briefly answered, they were told that the envoy was then preparing a despatch for the king, and that in about an hour, it would be taken on shore by a naval officer; when they must be prepared to receive and forward it immediately to the capital of the province, or wherever else it might be necessary for them to send it, in the first instance. They then entered upon a number of impertinent queries, such as, whether there were any presents for the king; what were the contents of the letter to him; asking to see a copy of the envoy’s despatch to the capital, and the envoy and captain’s commissions. In all these inquiries they were immediately checked, and with some difficulty, brought to answer the questions, whether they were willing to receive and forward the despatch or not. Having answered in the affirmative, they were told that was satisfactory—that the despatch was being completed—that in the meanwhile they should return and make preparations to receive the officer who bore it.
The subject of provisions and particularlywater, was again introduced, but nothing satisfactory was elicited in reply; the market, they said, was open.
A little after noon, the despatch was carried on shore by Lieutenant Brent. It was a letter in the form of a Chinese memorial, from the envoy to the king of Cochin-China, and was written both in Chinese and English. The following is a copy:—