PRODUCTS.
In the course of a whole month, the period of our residence here, I have not seen a person bathe, although beaches abound every where: the Cochin-Chinese appear to have an utter aversion to cleanliness, and one would be apt to infer that they all had a touch of the hydrophobia, from their aversion to water. From the highly flourishing appearance of the land, the immense number of fishing and coasting boats constantly employed, it would be reasonable to conclude that great quantities of sugar, coffee, cotton and fish were exported, and that provisions of all kinds could be had in abundance; but such is not the fact: from one to three small miserable junks, from the island of Hainan, visit here annually, bringing coarse tea and some paper, and take in return, ground-nut-oil, a small quantity of wax, and some colambac, here called kinam; being a resinous aromatic concretion, and generally said to be taken from the heart of the aloe wood. Sapan wood is occasionally to be bought. The terrace culture is resorted to, in raising upland rice. In fact, not enough rice is raised for the use of the inhabitants, and they are obliged to import part of this necessary article of food from Nhiatrang, and other parts of the kingdom.
Their mode of freeing rice from the husk, is by means of a long beam having a pestle at one extremity; the beam plays on a pivot secured between two parallel upright posts, a large mortar being firmly fixed in the ground; the beam is elevated by the operator placing his foot upon the other end; this is a primitive, and a very slow method of freeing the husk from the kernel, and it causes it to be much broken. Indian corn appears to thrive well, but they obtain but a scanty supply: if more attention was paid to agriculture, and a less number of people were employed in fishing, exports to a large amount might be made within a few years; they import rice and tea, when they might raise both in abundance, as well as coffee.
Elephants appear to be used here for domestic purposes; they are said to be found in great numbers. Buffaloes, having a hump between the fore shoulders, are used in the plough as well as the common ox; the price given for the former for the use of the ship, has been from ten to fifteen dollars. A small fleet horse, or rather pony, is here much used, the price being about twenty quans, equal to eleven dollars. Fowls, ducks and pigs, are by no means plentiful, and are only bought at high prices; they will offer two, three or four of the two former for a Spanish dollar or for a couple of common jackknives, which they much prefer. The fruits which have been thus far offered for sale, are the custard-apple and the jack, limes, oranges, pomegranates, watermelons, lemons of immense size, and a great variety of the plantain and banana, in one kind of which I found a great many seeds; they were disposed of in horizontal layers in six compartments, having a small pith running through them; there are about fifty seeds in each, of an irregular shape, pointed slightly, and white at the apex; immediately beneath them was a black ring, extending about one fourth of the way down. Never having seen any seed-bearing plantain, I am induced to note it; when ripe, the outside is of a reddish yellow, and the fruit pleasant to the taste. The vegetables are few in number, and all we have yet seen, are beans, the egg-plant, and the sweet potato.
Great care appears to be taken of the remains of the dead—some are placed in tombs of stone, neatly built and plastered, having a small wicker-work house placed in the centre—others are deposited in a common grave, having a basket-work roof which is placed there to protect them from wild beasts. The inhabitants are civil, but sometimes troublesome in approaching too near—they seem desirous of handling every part of the dress—but the sad condition they are in, makes it necessary frequently to use coercive measures to keep them at awholesomedistance. The naval button, with an eagle and an anchor on it, demands universal admiration. A few small junks are built of wood and many are repaired at Vunglam.FISHING-BOATS.Fishing occupies a large portion of the time of the inhabitants, and from one hundred to one hundred and fifty boats are seen issuing out of the bay every morning at sunrise from the various villages. Some of them carry lug sails, and others are of a triangular shape, &c., &c., and some have two masts and others three; thelargest mast being stepped in the centre, the next being equi-distant between that and the smallest one, which is stepped as near to the bows as possible; the sail on the middle mast is less than one half the size of the mainmast, and the forward one about half the size of the second. They are built very sharp forward; the bottom is of basket-work, very closely woven, and stretched on a frame, and dammer or pitch is used freely both within and without; the upper works are of wood, and oil is frequently applied to the bottom. There are a few built entirely of wood and very little iron, being generally tree-nailed on to the timbers. The sails are of matting, neatly woven, and generally well cut in a seamanlike manner. The cables are of cocoa-nut fibres, and the anchors of a species of very heavy wood. Chunam is used on the vessels, having wooden bottoms; and the upper works are blacked with a substance resembling lacquer. The largest class may carry forty or fifty tons.
FISHING-BOATS.
Trees of a large growth are very scarce, being cut away to the tops of the highest hills; they are therefore obliged to resort further inland for ship-timber; a few planks of forty feet in length and about four inches in thickness, of a very hard wood, were seen in the ship-yards, sawed out quite roughly. Temples or houses for religious worship and priests, there are none; they are said to be prone to superstitious rites—this assertion has been fully confirmed in many instances.
In passing along between the village of Vunglam and the beach, I saw a shed erected, having within it some characters written on a board resembling the Chinese, but being blended so much together, they could not be understood; the picture of a frightful object was also there. A Chinese, who was with us, said it was placed there to guard against evil spirits, which greatly infested that place. In another part of the village was erected a similar shed, under which was a board, on which was inscribed in Chinese characters, only the wordGod, it therefore reminded me at once of what St. Paul found written on an altar at Athens, “To the unknown God.” I suppose those more refined barbarians and these poor Cochin-Chinese, are alike ignorant ofHimwho made and governs all things. Traversing the beach near Vung-chow, we saw a small cell erected on posts, in the middle of a grove of trees; looking into it, we found two chalk-fish painted green, suspended from the roof, and some pots containing half-burnt joss-sticks. When theywish for success in fishing, offerings are made to the presiding Deity. Great quantities of sea-shells were scattered about the place, and fires were evidently frequently made; thus they present the essence of their feasts only to the Neptunian Deity, while the pious devotee devours the substance. In another similar place about four miles from thence, we found another cell or box erected on posts, but it was more neatly constructed—in it were two paintings in water colours, evidently Chinese, each having one large and two small female figures; before them were half-burnt incense rods and on one side a horse’s head wrapped in a cloth, which, on opening, we found filled with maggots: a great number of small green glazed pots were scattered about.
Tigers abound throughout the country: a few nights since one came into the village of Vunglam, and carried off into the jungle a good-sized pig. The woods abound with wild hogs, goats, deer, peacocks, &c., &c., and the wild elephant is also abundant in the forests. About two miles from hence is a large barrack, containing a number of soldiers: the only arm I have yet seen them to possess is a very long spear, having a small flag or tassel attached to it. I was introduced to an old man, the commander of two thousand, the other day; himself and attendants were on horses of a small size, or rather ponies; they sat on saddles of a peculiar construction, the hinder part being the lowest; the saddle-cloth being fancifully painted, a rope used instead of a bit and bridle, and a string of small ornamented bells placed around the neck: the commander was dressed in a long robe of blue satin, and wore a black crape turban. He endeavoured to show every civility by dismounting and walking.
MANDARINS’ HOUSE.
It has been heretofore stated, that, after repeated requests, we returned the ceremonious calls of two of the mandarins. On approaching the house, towards the outer gate, we found twelve long spears, bearing small flags, placed perpendicularly in the ground, in two lines. A wattled fence separated the dwelling from the beach: in passing through the outward entrance, we found a short neat avenue, of the graceful areca-palm, intertwined with the piper-betel leaf. We then passed through the inner entrance to the court-yard, which was in neat order. The mandarins received us with much politeness: a temporary arbour had been erected, and a table spread, having on it rice-wine, cakes, sweetmeats, fruits—tea beingalso served. At each end of the arbour, were suspended, from the roof, two elegantly embroidered cloths, having silk tassels and worked lappels: Chinese characters were wrought on them, the purport of which could not be ascertained, as they were so much blended together. Two brass tripods, for burning incense, were placed on the table, ornamented with a lion couchant, from the mouth of which and the open-work cover, issued the grateful perfume of the kinnam or calembac, which was kept well replenished. Paper cigars, pipes, and areca, completed the regale. The house was of brick, with a neat tiled roof. Flowers, in pots, were neatly arranged around the court-yard.
Many of the natives stood looking on, and behaved with perfect propriety. The mandarin, or chief of the village of Vung-lam, who paid us the first visit on our arrival, was in attendance, standing at my left hand, and served us, in common with the interpreters. The mandarins were dressed in their robes of ceremony. Three houses occupied as many sides of the court-yard. The mandarins and guards attended us to our boats.
When the discussion was going on relative to the letter to the minister, which occupied many hours, they finally approved of every sentence, and every word, except “friendly,” which they thought was rather too familiar a word to be used between nations; and therefore they proposed substituting the word “neighbourly,” which would read, “neighbourly intercourse.” Seeing that I was rather amused at the proposed alteration, they were desirous of knowing the cause. Being told, that, as we lived some twenty thousand miles apart, we could not hold avery neighbourly intercourse, they were much amused by the gross blunder committed by their ignorance, and replied, it was very true, and therefore they would be satisfied with the word friendly, as proposed by me. They were not aware, however, of the distance between the two countries, neither did they know the situation of North America, but supposed it to be in Europe, as we afterward ascertained.
When they take leave, they always place our right hand between theirs, bow their heads very slowly, and as low down as possible.
The government of Cochin-China is thoroughly despotic, being framed in close imitation of that of China. The sovereign, who, till lately, bore the title of king, and who still pays a nominal tribute to China under that title, assumes, among his own subjects,and with all foreign countries, except China, the Chinese title of hwang-te, (or emperor,) with the peculiar attribute, “sacred,” “divine,” &c., commonly used by the court of Peking. The name, or epithet, by which the present monarch is designated, (which name was taken by the monarch himself, at his accession to the throne,) is ming-ming; it signifies, “emperor appointed by the brilliant decree of heaven.”
According to the account of the deputies, who visited the ship at Vung-lam, theadministrationis also formed in imitation of the Chinese—consisting of a council of four principal, and two secondary ministers. The chief of these, (whom Mr. Crawford, the British envoy, calls the minister of elephants, or of strangers,) was said to be the minister of commerce, navigation, &c.
The provincial government is also formed in imitation of the Chinese. Two or more provinces are governed by a toung-tuh, (tsong-dok,) or governor; under whom, the principal officers, in each province, are two, viz.: a pooching-sze, (bo-chang-sze,) or treasurer and land-officer: and an anchasze, or judge. Subordinate to these, are magistrates, called che-foos, che-keens, &c., presiding over the districts into which each province is divided. In Cochin-China, as in China, there are nine grades of rank, each of which is divided into a principal and secondary class. Every officer, employed in the government, is of one of these grades: thus, the ministers of the council are of the first grade, principal class; and the governors of provinces, are of the first grade, secondary class.
This is all the information respecting the government of Cochin-China, that could be obtained from the natives.
PASSAGE FROM COCHIN-CHINA TO THE GULF OF SIAM—ARRIVAL AT THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER MENAM—PACKNAM—PROCESSION TO THE GOVERNMENT-HOUSE—RECEPTION—GOVERNOR—SIAMESE TEMPLES—INTERVIEW WITH THE SIAMESE FOREIGN MINISTER—PRIMA DONNA—FEATS OF STRENGTH—SIAMESE FEMALES—FIRE AT BANG-KOK—WHITE ELEPHANTS—EMBALMING—SHAVING-HEAD CEREMONY AND FEAST—FOX-BATS.
PASSAGE FROM COCHIN-CHINA TO THE GULF OF SIAM—ARRIVAL AT THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER MENAM—PACKNAM—PROCESSION TO THE GOVERNMENT-HOUSE—RECEPTION—GOVERNOR—SIAMESE TEMPLES—INTERVIEW WITH THE SIAMESE FOREIGN MINISTER—PRIMA DONNA—FEATS OF STRENGTH—SIAMESE FEMALES—FIRE AT BANG-KOK—WHITE ELEPHANTS—EMBALMING—SHAVING-HEAD CEREMONY AND FEAST—FOX-BATS.
We weighed anchor on the eighth of February, for the gulf of Siam; light winds and calms detained us nearly two days, within sight of the bay, in which lies Vunglam, &c., &c. We kept near to the coast, and found it bold and free from dangers; the land was hilly and frequently broken into mountains, more particularly between that bold promontory, called Cape Varela, and Cape Padaran. We passed the latter within three miles; from thence the land gradually dwindled into a gently undulating country, and then into low land. We finally lost sight of it off the numerous mouths of the great river, Kamboja. On the same afternoon, being the twelfth, we passed Padaran, and saw Pulo Cica de Terre and Lagan point. At meridian, on the following day, Pulo Condore was in sight, and the islands to the westward, called the Brothers. At daylight, the next morning, we beheld Pulo Ubi, or Yam island, which lies to the southward of cape Camboja. On the fourteenth, the islands and islets called Pulo Panjang, and ascertained their correct position to be in latitude 9° north, by a meridian observation, and by the chronometers, in 104° 32′, east longitude. At daylight, on the following morning, we found ourselves in the midst of a group of islands, lying so peacefully amid the glassy surface of the gulf, that Dana’s beautiful description of “Quiet Islands,” was at once brought to my recollection, from which I have made the following extract:—
“The island lies nine leagues away,Along its solitary shore,Of craggy rocks and sandy bay,No sound but ocean’s roar,Save where the bold, wild sea-bird makes her home,Her shrill cry, coming through the sparkling foam;“But when the light winds lie at rest,And on the glassy, heaving sea,The black duck, with her glossy breast,Sits swinging silently,How beautiful! no ripples break the reach,And silvery waves roll noiseless up the beach.”
“The island lies nine leagues away,Along its solitary shore,Of craggy rocks and sandy bay,No sound but ocean’s roar,Save where the bold, wild sea-bird makes her home,Her shrill cry, coming through the sparkling foam;“But when the light winds lie at rest,And on the glassy, heaving sea,The black duck, with her glossy breast,Sits swinging silently,How beautiful! no ripples break the reach,And silvery waves roll noiseless up the beach.”
“The island lies nine leagues away,Along its solitary shore,Of craggy rocks and sandy bay,No sound but ocean’s roar,Save where the bold, wild sea-bird makes her home,Her shrill cry, coming through the sparkling foam;
“But when the light winds lie at rest,And on the glassy, heaving sea,The black duck, with her glossy breast,Sits swinging silently,How beautiful! no ripples break the reach,And silvery waves roll noiseless up the beach.”
These islands are uninhabited, excepting when they are used as a place of resort by Malay pirates. They are six in number, and a rocky islet. As they are not laid down in any of our charts, they were named the “Woodbury Group,” in honour of my friend, the Honourable Levi Woodbury, the secretary of the navy. The northernmost island was called “Geisinger;” the most southern and eastern, “Roberts;” the centre one, between the two, “Peacock;” and that one lying farthest to the westward, and nearly in latitude of Roberts island, was named “Boxer:” the others were left unnamed. Their latitudes and longitudes, from three chronometers and a meridian observation, are as follows:—Two of them are about two miles long; one is in latitude 10° 16′ N., and longitude, 102° 43′ E., and the other in 10° 7′ and 103°. Two small islands and a rocky islet to the westward of them, lie in 10° 25′ and 103°. Two narrow islands, four or five miles in length, one in latitude 10° 19′ and 103° 12′ E., and the other in 10° 15′, and 103° 21′ E. On the sixteenth February, at noon, we were abreast of cape Liant and the islands in its vicinity; the latter are high and bold of approach. Their latitude and longitude are laid down in the charts too far to the southward and eastward. On the eighteenth we came to anchor in four fathoms of water, about ten miles from the mouth of the river Menam.
The Ko Si-Chang islands bore as follows: The most southern and westward of the group, S. S. E. ¾ E.; centre, S. E. ½ S. The mountain of Bang-pa-soe, on the main land, E. S. E. The entrance of the eastern or main branch of the Menam, and the easternmost land in sight, W. S. W. The land is very low, evenwith the water’s edge, and covered with trees; that at the entrance, on the starboard hand, is a little more elevated. On the nineteenth, the tide had fallen to nineteen. We weighed again, and stood a mile or two to the southward, and anchored in five fathoms. The latitude and longitude of the anchorage is in latitude 13° 26′ N., and longitude 100° 33′ E., as was ascertained by frequent lunar observations and by four chronometers. During the height of the river, when it is swollen by the periodical rains, sixteen feet of water may be found on the bar. At high spring tides, in the dry season, twelve to thirteen feet, and eight to nine in common tides. The above-named islands, by some navigators called the Dutch islands, possess a safe and beautiful harbour, formed between the principal, or Si-Chang island, and the next in magnitude, called Koh-kam. They are inhabited only by a few fishermen, and producesomeyams, bananas, capsicums, gourds, and cucumbers. A boat was despatched to them to obtain water, if possible, but it could not be found in sufficient quantities to furnish the ship. We had no other resource, but to send upward of forty miles for it, to Bang-kok, or else to take the brackish water of Packnam. Water, we were informed, could only be had at the Si-Changs during the rainy season.
PACKNAM.
A boat was sent to the governor of Packnam on the eighteenth, to inform him of the arrival of the ship, &c., and a letter was sent to the minister for foreign affairs, announcing the arrival of the mission. On the following day, an interpreter came on board, who asked among the first questions if there were any presents for the king, but received no satisfactory answer. A vast number of questions were also put to Mr. Morrison by the governor. A Cochin-Chinese ambassador arrived at Packnam on the same day, with several small filthy junks laden with merchandise. It was said to be only an annual mission sent by the emperor, while others stated that it was to honour the ceremony of burning the body of the “second king” who died some months since at the capital. On the twentieth, the captain of the port came on board, who said he was sent by the praklang or prime minister, by order of the king, to congratulate us on our arrival; that his majesty was much gratified at the good news, and very desirous of having a friendly commercial intercourse with the United States. After making similar inquiries, as the governor of Packnam, he returned. The day following, the praklang sent some fruit as a token of regard, with a complimentary message to me.
On Sunday the twenty-fourth, three large boats came to anchor near the ship, under the charge of the captain of the port of Bang-kok, Mr. Josef Piedade, a Christian Portuguese born at Bang-kok. He stated that preparations were made at Packnam by the governor for the reception of the mission, that a feast was there prepared by order of the king, that we should be under the necessity of remaining there that night, for it was customary for all foreign ministers to stop there, and notice to be given of their arrival; in congressional language, to “report progress.” The vessel in which I embarked was from seventy to eighty feet in length, and perhaps eight or nine in breadth, sharp built; having three long brass cannon, highly ornamented with silver, inlaid in fanciful devices. One was placed forward, between the bows, the vessel having no bowsprit; one aft, and two long swivels mounted on fixtures, between the fore and main mast, and between the main and mizen mast. She had three fore-and-aft sails made of light canvass, and cordage made of hemp, with good iron anchors, which are rarely seen on board native vessels in the China seas, wooden ones being in general use. The vessel was propelled with forty short oars, manned by as many Burmese slaves, dressed in the king’s uniform; being a coarse red cotton long jacket, a cap of the same material, trimmed with white, and a blue waist-cloth. The boat had two rudders, one under each quarter; and from having two helmsmen, it was either “hard up, or hard down,” continually; consequently, she “yawed” not a little. There were no less than seven red flags; one to each peak, two to each bow, and two to each quarter. A small house on deck was appropriated solely for the use of the envoy. It was covered with a carpet, and furnished with a pillow to recline on. The boat was neatly built and painted, and the house slightly decorated with carving and gilding. The passengers in the two boats consisted of Capt. Geisinger, Second-Lieut. Purveyance, Lieut. Fowler of the Marine Corps, Acting-Lieut. Brent, Doctor Ticknor, Midshipmen Carrol, Thomas, Crawford and Wells, and Mr. J. R. Morrison of Macao, Secretary and Chinese Interpreter, and four servants. The other was, in all respects, a similar vessel, but manned with thirty-six oars; rowed by Malay slaves dressed in blue, with caps of the same, trimmed with white. The shiplay in five and a half fathoms water, and not less than fifteen miles from Packnam, which is situated about two miles from the mouth of the river Menam: Packnam means the river’s mouth or embochure. The shores are every where very low, and as flat as the south side of La Plata, or Arkansas on the Mississippi, and in the rainy season are completely submerged. The entrance to the river on the starboard hand is rather more elevated than on the left, which is quite sunken, mangrove and other trees only appearing out of the water. The river takes a sharp turn to the northward, at the entrance; the left bank running parallel, gives it the appearance of being closed at the mouth.
PROCESSION.
We arrived at Packnam, on the left bank of the river, about eight, and found there, waiting for us, the captain of the port, and a great number of slaves at the landing, with torches in hand, and fastened also to temporary posts, to light us on the way to the government-house, situated just without an extensive fortification. There was a narrow way paved with broad bricks, which led to the governor’s. The gentlemen composing the company, the servants on each flank with their numerous flambeaux, with many hundred lookers-on, preserving the utmost decorum, made no small show, and produced, upon the whole, rather an imposing effect, for this was the first envoy ever sent to the “magnificent king of Siam,” from the United States.
We were ushered into the best house in the village, enclosed by a bamboo-fence and guarded by soldiers with long wooden poles, pointed with iron. The houses are erected as all the houses are here, from five to seven feet above the ground, on substantial posts; the sides are covered with attap, a species of palm growing abundantly on the banks of the Menam; they have a double roof, one of tile and another of attap to moderate the intensity of the heat. We ascended a stairway and were ushered into “the presence” through lines ofprostrateslaves, from thence to a raised platform.
The governor was sitting cross-legged on an elevated seat, under a broad canopy, surrounded, a little beneath him, by his sword and silver-stick bearers, and a man holding a long fan made of feathers, which was kept in constant motion to keep him cool and to drive off the myriads of moschetoes. His menials were all prostrate, resting on their knees and elbows, coming in and going out in the same attitude, always keeping their faces turned towards him.He was smoking a long pipe, having before him areca-nut, chunam, ceri (siri) or betel-leaf, and tobacco, all of which were deposited in several large gold cups or goblets. His dress consisted of awaist-cloth—his head was shaved excepting on the crown, “à la Siamese.” He received us very graciously, courteously, and hospitably, shaking us heartily by the hand; chairs were prepared for us and the best viands the place could afford, consisting of at least a dozen dishes, were shortly ordered in, well cooked in the Portuguese fashion, clean and neat with porter, cocoa-nut water, and a square Dutch bottle of gin—there were clean table-cloth, knives, forks, plates and spoons, and the floor was covered with a neat woollen carpet. The usual inquiries were made for our healths, ages, children, &c., &c. He congratulated us on our arrival, and said the mission was not only gratifying to him personally but to the country, as he was informed by the praklang or principal minister.
Supper being ended, bamboo-chairs covered with mats, some mattresses and pillows, were prepared, and the raised canopy or throne was assigned to me. Three fourths of two sides of the room were open to the air, protected from rain only by the long projecting attap roof—we were guarded during the night by soldiers and excessively annoyed by moschetoes. By daylight, all were upon the “qui vive,” glad to escape from the torments of the night. An early ramble carried us to a pagoda, neat in appearance, decorated with carved work and gilding—it was built of brick and neatly plastered—figures of non-descript animals were about it, which were probably intended for lions, cut from granite, and there were small pra-chades or single spires built of brick and plastered, the whole being enclosed by a wall; the doors were shut so that we could not obtain an entrance; the ground every where was very low and swampy, and the houses mean; the people appeared to be wretchedly poor, diseased and dirty, but still cleaner than the Cochin-Chinese. Breakfast ended, we took leave of the hospitable governor and proceeded up the river.
Very extensive fortifications are here to be seen on both sides of the river, having water batteries, apparently of great strength. A great number of soldiers manned the walls in compliment to us, all dressed in the royal red uniform. We proceeded on with the flood tide, cheered by the passing scene. Occasionally, we met a single hut or a group of huts, having a boat at the door, and a ladder toascend into their only room; this ladder is taken away at night, making their habitations more secure against wild beasts and reptiles, which are in great abundance in the swamps. Their principal neighbours are tigers and leopards, snakes of various sizes from the boa-constrictor and venomous cobra de cappello to the more deadly viper, which they say is black, about four or five inches in length, and has two short legs. Alligators bask in the sun at the foot of the ladder or under their building, and moschetoes bear the palm here over the swamps of Louisiana and Texas, coming in myriads so as partially to obscure the sun.
We passed on to Pack-lac situated on the right bank, where we again found very extensive fortifications; but we were unable to ascertain the number of guns either here or at Packnam, which is probably about ten or twelve miles below. The ebb tide here met us, and the slaves made but slow progress in rowing—a breeze occasionally helped us, but the remainder of the passage was rendered tedious by the great heat of the sun. The river has a great many bends, so that it is nearly double the distance, by water, from Packnam to the capital, being from thirty to thirty-five miles, and only twenty by land. The shores are upon a level with the river at high spring tides, even at Bang-kok, and as I am informed, a long distance above Jutaya the ancient capital.
Not until we were within a dozen miles of the capital, were there many clusters of huts to be seen; but, from thence, they gradually increased in number till we arrived at the city. The graceful and favourite areca-palm, with its tall slender trunk and brush-like head, and the towering bamboo and cocoa-nut, were to be seen every where along the banks, interspersed with a great variety of fruit and forest trees; and the water’s edge was bounded by the attap, or cocos-nypa, which is in universal use as a thatch for their huts. As we approached the capital, we began to see pagodas, some houses with tiled roofs, and a great many large junks, building in dry docks, which consist of a simple excavation made on the banks, the water being drained out by an ordinary barrier of plank, well banked with clay. Many of these junks were upward of a thousand tons. From two to three hundred were lying in the river.
BUDHIST TEMPLES.
Numerous temples of Budha were now seen, covered with neat coloured tiles, some blue, and others green or yellow. Tall singlespires, or prah-chadis, were observed every where. The temples present a very splendid appearance, having highly ornamented carved work in front, and literally blazing in gold. There is something very novel in their style of architecture, which can only be made clear to the understanding by drawings. Fruit and palm-trees overshadow their houses, interspersed with the sacred fig-tree, giving to them a cool and tropical-like appearance. Floating houses, resting on rafts of bamboo secured to piles, line both banks of the river, which seem to be occupied by industrious Chinese, as their long narrow red signs indicate: the latter serve to show the various articles they have for sale, &c. The Chinese are easily distinguished by their complexion, being more yellow than the Siamese; but they have generallydockedtheentailto their heads, and dress à la Siamese, with a circle of hair on theroof. But few of the “long tails,” the distinguishing appendage to a Chinaman’s head, are to be seen.
We were upward of nine hours in reaching the landing,[†]in front of the house assigned to us by the king. We landed, and formed a procession to the house; the officers being dressed in their uniforms, and the servants bringing up the rear. We were ushered in by the pia-visa, or general of artillery, benedetts de arguelleria, and some other of the king’s officers, to the finest looking house we had seen on the river, having the front view entirely unobstructed. Passing through a neat white gateway, having a well-built stuccoed wall, over a grass-plot, through the inner gate, we found ourselves within an extensive area, between two long rows of buildings, having large trees in the centre; an outside staircase conducted us to a saloon, where we found a table set, and shortly after supper was announced. It was cooked in the European and Indian style, having a variety of curries of fish and fowl. It was well served, and in profusion; and followed by a great variety of sweetmeats, and fruits of the season. Certain king’s officers attended, and ordered every thing; bedsteads and beds were brought; and, in a day or two, moscheto-nets, &c., &c. A cook was provided, and a purveyor, who partially supplied us with provisions. There was, also, a superintendant of the household, a SiamesePortuguese by birth, Domingo by name, having four other servants to do the ordinary work of the house; and these, again, are all under the orders of Piedade, the captain of the port, who receives his orders from the praklang, or prime minister for foreign affairs.
Every day or two, presents of sweetmeats, fruit, or more substantial food is sent, by the praklang, served up in glass dishes, and sent on gold and silver salvers. When brought in, the servants kneel down and present them, in a more humble manner than suits our republican notions. Our residence has two ranges of buildings, running back about one hundred and fifty feet, exclusive of the front yard, with a wide area between them. It is built of brick and stuccoed, having a neat tiled roof. A long covered gallery conducts to the dormitories, consisting of eight on each side, which are about twenty feet square, with wooden floors; underneath are magazines, or offices; between the two ranges of building, and connected with them by a high wall, is the dining-hall, open so as freely to admit the air, commanding a fine view of the capital and suburbs, on the left bank: underneath the dining-hall, is a private go-down, or magazine. The river at all times has a great number of boats upon it; but in the morning, when the bazar is being made ready, there are many hundreds, probably thousands, going in all directions, from the smallest canoe, scarcely able to contain a single person, to others which are nearly a hundred feet in length, and made from a single teak-tree: they are paddled by a great number of men, having a house in the centre, or a palm-leaf roof; the passengers reclining on a raised platform, covered with mats, carpets, and pillows.
WATER-PEDLARS.
Water-pedlars, of both sexes, but principally women, are in abundance, carrying tin and brass ware, English, and China, and India goods. Rice, oil, dried and fresh fish, balachang, eggs, fowls, areca, siri-leaf, chunam, pork, fruit, vegetables, &c.; indeed every thing that is wanted, or supposed necessary for the comfort, convenience, or luxury of the inhabitants. Budhist priests, with their yellow waist-cloths, mantles, shaven heads and eyebrows, are seen in great numbers, going their daily rounds among the inhabitants, in canoes, for food and clothing. Women, also, use the oar, in great numbers, and with equal dexterity as the men.
Although the Siamese are not a cleanly people, they are far superior to the Cochin-Chinese; they bathe frequently, their skinsare clear and free of eruptions, and they do not everlastingly scratch, scratch, and keep scratching, like the people of Vunglam; but their coal-black teeth are excessively disgusting, and the saliva created by chewing areca, siri-leaf, and tobacco, is constantly issuing in a red stream, from their mouths. Fishing being farmed out, there are not the same lively scenes exhibited here as on the Pasig. I have seen but a very few occupied in that way since my arrival. Every floating house has necessarily a boat to go visiting, from place to place, or to transact business. The front parts of all these houses are shops, having their wares neatly arranged on shelves and terraces. These buildings are of one story only, and are used as a bedroom at night, or to take a siesta when the heat of the day, low water, and want of customers, give to their inmates a temporary respite.
The river here is about fifteen hundred feet wide, and very deep, probably fifty or sixty feet, and the stream rapid on the flood and ebb; the water is notwithstanding, fresh, and is used for all domestic purposes, filthy as it is. The upper stratum of the banks of the river is alluvial, and the under, where exposed, shows a stiff strong clay. The houses on the land, with very few exceptions, are of one story, built on high piles, made of plank or bamboo, and roofed with tile or attap.
RECEPTION OF ENVOY.
Having expressed a desire to the praklang, through the interpreter, to enter as early as possible on the subject of the mission, I received an invitation early the next morning, from the minister of foreign affairs, to meet him the same afternoon at five. He sent me word at the same time, that it was always customary for foreign ministers to pay him the first visit. Suitable boats were sent in due time, and Captain Geisinger and his officers, and Mr. Morrison, accompanied me, dressed in their uniforms. A few minutes brought us to his house. Numerous people were present to attend our landing, a large portion of whom came, probably, from motives of curiosity only. The house being but a short distance from the river, we were soon within his gates, and entered by a flight of steps into the audience hall. In the centre was a raised seat, on which the minister reclined. He is a very heavy unwieldy man, weighing, probably, nearly three hundred pounds, and about fifty-five years of age; his only dress was a waist-cloth of silk; he was resting on a new crimson velvet cushion, supported on the back by one of triangular shape. In front, on the seat, were utensils of gold, handsomely wrought, containing areca, chunam, betel-leaf, &c., the gift of the king. The front of the hall was entirely open, the room decorated with a great number of very ordinary oval gilt looking-glasses, placed near to the ceiling, on the pillars which supported the roof; common English prints of battles, rural scenery, &c., were closely placed along the walls. Instead of wooden panels, painted Chinese glass was placed in compartments of about four feet in height, with a profusion of blue and gold, and outré figures of Chinese men, animals, &c. Brass chandeliers and common glass lamps were suspended from the roof. On the left of the praklang, being the seat of honour in the East, and at the distance of a dozen feet, were placed two chairs for Captain Geisinger and myself. I was requested to occupy the one nearest to the minister. A short distance from us, parallel with the praklang’s seat, chairs were placed for the officers of the Peacock and Mr. Morrison. On the right, on a raised platform, but lower than the minister’s or our seat, and fronting Captain Geisinger and myself, were Mr. Piedade and other interpreters, secretaries, &c., to the number of six or seven, closely wedged together; they were all crouching, in a brute-like attitude, on their knees and elbows. On the left, between me and the minister, were two of his younger sons, decorated with a profusion of golden necklaces, set with large stones, having beautiful golden coronets around the tuft of hair, on the top of the head, and a large golden bodkin secured the hair on their crown; a silken waist-cloth covered their loins, and silver bangles or rings decorated their wrists and ankles. Their skins were stained with turmerick, sandal-wood, or saffron. A sword-bearer, resting on his shoulder a sword, having a rich and highly-finished and ornamented gold sheath; another slave, with a long feathered fan, to keep his excellency cool, if possible, with others, were all prostrate on the floor, like the interpreters; without, in the court-yard, were a great number of people, all in this humiliating posture. His sons, when called, crawled as well as the others, and went backward in the same attitude, always facing their lord and master. One of them was ordered to bring us palm-leaf cigars; he came crawling on, poor fellow, bowed his head to the ground, and presented them; he then went to the officers, but stood up, after leaving CaptainGeisinger and myself; he afterward crawled back to his station, on the left of his father. We all made a bow in the usual style of our country, on entering and retiring, and were presented with tea, sweetmeats, and fruit.
The minister congratulated us on our arrival, inquired, as is customary here, as to our ages, children, &c., what ports we had been to, the object of the mission, all of which he previously knew by a letter received from me, dated on the day of our arrival off the mouth of the Menam. Having got through with this interview, and appointed the next evening for a conference, we took leave. I observe that the greater chiefs within sight of our habitation, have high poles erected close to their houses, on which small flags are displayed, and at night large lanterns are hoisted at the top, as a distinguishing mark, over their less fortunate neighbours. Every sort of humiliation is practised by the lower to the higher classes, according to their rank: from that of making a simple obeisance by uniting their hands, and raising them to the forehead, and bowing the head low, to kneeling, and the entire prostration of the body.
We went by invitation, on the sixth of March, to the house of the praklang’s brother, to attend the celebration of the feats given, in consequence of cutting the tuft of hair on his son’s head, which is done between the ages of ten and fifteen. The principal part of this evening’s entertainment was comic acting and posture dancing, which consists in graceful attitudes of the body, and in slow movements of the arms and legs, particularly of the former, even to the distinct motions of the hands and fingers. The actors consisted of a king and queen, and male and female attendants, amounting to a dozen, all glittering in gold and tinsel, barefooted and barelegged, their faces painted white, and having silver guards to their nails, not less than six inches long, pointed at the end, and recurvated: singing in rather a melancholy strain, not altogether unmusical. There were about a hundred beating sticks on a long board, which were changed occasionally for another stick, which, when struck, sounded like castanets: two drums beaten by the hands, trumpets, small horns, and an instrument called a ranat: it is made in Lao or Laos, of graduated pieces of bamboo, which give a sweet sound when struck with a sort of wooden hammer covered with pieces of coarse cotton thread: it has eighteen keys or bars, each fifteen inches long, two inches broad, strung together, and suspended over a wooden boat-shaped box; the top part being left open. There was another instrument also, the khong-nong; being a series of small cymbals in a bamboo-frame, forming a large segment of a circle.
THE PRIMA DONNA.
During the posture-dances, and through a considerable part of the divertisement, the principal singer to all splendid entertainments, the prima donna, squalled to the very top of her voice, various ditties in a melancholy strain, until I thought she would have swooned from exhaustion: but I was mistaken; for she was made of tougher materials, than ever fell to the lot of any other female. She was seated on the ground, and dressed in a dingy cotton waist and breast cloth, and her hair arranged “à la Siamese;” it being all shaved off excepting on the crown, which was combed perpendicularly, standing “like quills upon the fretful porcupine.” Her teeth were as black as ebony, and her lips and gums were of a livid red: out of the corners of her mouth issued a stream of dark coloured saliva, which, ever and anon, she wiped off with the back of her hand, and which was finally deposited on the waist-cloth behind: the saliva was produced by masticating areca, siri, chunam and tobacco; the latter projecting from the right corner of her mouth, according to the disgusting practice of the Javanese and Siamese. A Catalani, a Sontag or a Garcia, could not feel much flattered by this addition to their sisterhood. When the actors enter on the floor, it is in a crouching or kneeling position, till they come in front of the master of the feast; then all kneel, bow their heads, and at the same time touch their foreheads with their united hands, and then slowly lower them to the waist. The second night’s entertainment consisted mostly of representations of gladiators engaged in combat, fighting with swords and sticks, while numerous Chinese crackers were let off in imitation of musketry: there were pugilistic contests also with the fists, and slapping with the flat of the hand; but there was no real “set-to.” There was also a most excellent company of vaulters and tumblers; some of the feats were truly surprising, as the following description will show: it was a feat of strength, which surpassed every thing of the kind that I ever witnessed. Four men placed themselves in a solid square, two others then got up and stood upon their shoulders, and another man again upon theirs; a very athletic young man apparently about sixteen years of age, by the assistance of a ladder, placed himself in a similar position, on the shoulders of the last man, standing however only on one foot, occasionally shifted; a boy of about twelve, then mounting a ladder high enough for the top man to seize him by a belt round the waist, he was raised at arms’ length with perfect ease, standing on one leg, and occasionally shifting it to the other. After balancing him for a minute or two he threw his burden from him, who descending turned a somerset and came without harm on his feet, being pitched from an elevation of about twenty-four feet. There were a great many hundred spectators all sitting on the floor, excepting the wives and relations of the master of the feast, who sat in a narrow gallery. Chairs were used only by our party, consisting of eleven.
A handsome entertainment was served up to us, in a very neat large room, to which we ascended by a flight of four stairs, leading from a court open on two sides. The supper consisted of a great variety of sweetmeats and fruit, served up in a very neat pretty style, on silver salvers, placed on half a dozen tables—the chairs being borrowed expressly for our use; the head of the table was assigned to me; cocoa-nut water was the only drink, which was taken from the shell. The room was decorated, at one end, with an elegant canopy, rich in gold and silk, under which were displayed elegant glass, China ware, and gold and silver utensils, arranged on a wooden-terraced frame, highly gilt, painted, and varnished, flowers being interspersed here and there. The canopy was brilliantly lighted with coloured lamps, and made a handsome, rich, unique, but rather tawdry appearance. As I cannot tell a Siamese man from a woman, when numbers are seated together, so it is out of my power to say whether any females were present, excepting the young actresses, who were all barefooted young girls. The hair of the Siamese women is cut like that of the men; their countenances are, in fact, more masculine than those of the males: they are generally very fat, having very stout lower limbs and arms; are excessively ugly; and when they open their mouths, truly hideous; resembling the inside of a black painted sepulchre.