CHAPTER XXIII.

BURNT ISLAND.

“The shrill spirit of the storm sat not dim upon the bluff brow,” “nor enjoyed the death of the mariner,” for the morning was bright, and fair, and joyous. The loud roaring of the sea shamed not the thunder, as it was wont to do, for it was almost unruffled. The tremendous sound of the mysterious bell, which was wont to be heard high above the loud surges of the ocean, warning the mariner of his fate, if he approached too boldly, was hushed; and the bodiless hand, which was seen to give it motion, had disappeared in the lapse of ages. We kept close to the northern shore, as far as Metté, or Burnt island, to take the benefit of a current setting to the westward.

Being so near the land, we suffered severely from the hot, suffocating air of this inhospitable region. Clothes were a burden, sleep fled from us, and the slightest exertion was painful. The whole aspect of the land was most dreary and most desolate. Mountains and plains of sand, only, were presented to our view, looking “like drifted gold in summer’s cloudless beam.” Not a tree, nor a shrub, nor scarcely a blade of grass, to relieve the eyeof the extreme aridity of this vast wilderness. Here and there, at great intervals, were a few miserable huts, in a gully, formed by the washing away of the sand; and the great comfort derived from the “shadow of a high rock in a hot and dreary land,” would have been felt here as an inestimable blessing. Now and then, a naked and poverty-stricken fisherman was seen stealing along the shore, propelling, with his double-bladed paddle, a frail catamaran, made of two or three sticks of wood, sitting to his waist in water, having a rush sack to put his fish in, and liable to be made the prey of the voracious blue shark, which abounds in these waters. He was in search of what could not be found on the land, to wit, something edible; something to nourish his own frail body, or satisfy the cravings of a famishing wife, and a brood of naked, starving, helpless children.

We were a few days in accomplishing the short distance of two hundred and forty miles, from the cape to Metté, and then shaped our course for cape Aden in Arabia Felix, which we descried the following morning, presenting a bold, broken outline. We continued coasting along the shore till the twenty-ninth, when we spoke an East India company’s cruiser, the Nautilus, the same brig which the Peacock captured at the termination of the late war with Great Britain. She had under convoy four brigs from Mocha, bound to Surat. They were very much crowded withgoodmussulmans, from Mecca, who had been on a pilgrimage to the holy city, and were purified of all their sins, past, present, and to come, by the waters of the miraculous well of Zemzen, &c., and were now sure of admission into the sensual paradise of the prophet.

The triple and quadruple mountains of Yemen were distinctly visible, and the sandy coast was interrupted at intervals by high land, till we made the broken hill which forms the celebrated cape of Death, or cape of Tears, Babel Mandeb, better known to the world as Babel Mandel. The passage between this headland and the island of Perim, and Babel Mandeb, is less than a mile and a half wide according to the chart of Sir Home Popham. It is called by modern navigators the lesser Bab, or Gate.

ARRIVAL AT MOCHA.

Head winds and adverse currents obliged us to enter the Red sea through the great channel formed between Perim and the group of islands, called “Souamba,” or the Eight Brothers, lying on the Abyssinian shore. We therefore had on either hand Africa and Asia in full view, both equally steril and lofty in the interior. Although the distance is but forty miles to Mocha, from the straits, yet it occupied the remaining two days of the month to effect it, owing to contrary currents and winds. We anchored in five fathoms water, at the distance of two miles from the shore; immediately on anchoring, a lieutenant (Brent) was sent on shore to the dowlah or governor, to say that a salute of fifteen guns should be given, if an equal number were returned; this was promptly complied with. We found Mocha in possession of a Turkish rebel chieftain, Turkie ben al Mas by name, who it seems has held it for the last seven months; he was an officer in the service of Mehemet Ali the celebrated pacha of Egypt, and being discontented with his situation he thought it best to carve out for himself, with the assistance of his sword, a little good fortune, in the shape of a governor over a few cities; he collected together a number of followers, soldiers of fortune, who are always to be found in Egypt, as well as in Turkey and elsewhere, ready to draw the sword for those who will pay the best and make the largest promises. These troops consisted of Turks, Copts or Egyptians, Bedouin and other Arabs, and Abyssinians. It seems on his march from Grand Cairo, where the expedition was planned, he conquered the principal places, lying on the Arabian side of the Red sea; meeting with some opposition at Judda alias Djidda, the port of disembarkation for pilgrims going to the holy city of Mecca, it was plundered and many of the inhabitants were slain. Here he found seven large East India built ships, armed and equipped, belonging to his late master; of these, he took forcible possession, putting on board some troops, and ordering them to Mocha to co-operate with his army which proceeded by land. He marched on with about three thousand men, capturing on his way Hodeida, Loheia, &c., till he came to Zebid, better known as Waled Zebid: here he met with considerable opposition, but finally it was obliged to submit to the “strong arm.” Exasperated at the resistance made by the dowlah, he ordered him to be put to the most cruel death—such a one as could only enter into the imagination of a fiend of darkness. A copper cap was made, heated red hot, then fitted to his head, and his brains were literally fried out, he dying in the most excruciating tortures. This place (Mocha) capitulated after some slight skirmishing, on condition that the dowlah and the garrison should be suffered to depart unmolested, with their arms, accoutrements and baggage, to the interior; this was faithfully complied with as it regarded the troops; they were suffered to depart without molestation to the mountains of Yemen. The dowlah was promised every indulgence, and the conqueror apparently took a deep interest in his welfare. He was asked, with great seeming kindness, if he had a family, wives and children, in the interior, and if he did not wish to see them speedily. He answered in the affirmative, and expressed himself in very forcible and affectionate terms—such as may be supposed to emanate from a man of ardent temperament, and one whose feelings are centred in the bosom of his family. He was informed that all his fears should be speedily hushed, that he should depart for the mountains, and be allowed a body-guard for his protection. On the second night after their departure, as they drew near the first rise of mountains, and within sight of the hills which overlooked the home of his children, anticipating the delightful pleasure of once more beholding and embracing them, as he was resting on the ground and partaking an humble meal, he was most treacherously and cruelly shot, in two places, through the back, and there left to be a prey for the eagle and jackall of the mountains; while his poor and fatherless children were daily and hourly looking from their tent-doors into the valleys, wondering why he tarried so long, and complaining of his tardiness; but, alas, their eyes were never destined to behold him more.

VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR.

By a particular invitation, we visited the conqueror. We landed at a stone-pier, and shortly passed through one of the city-gates. After winding through extremely narrow and crooked streets, which were as hot as the blast from a “baker’s oven,” we arrived at a building dignified with the name of “the palace,” fronting an open space of ground on one side, and on another, overlooking the harbour. There were, lounging about the grand entrance, a goodly number of his cut-throats, whose trade and pastime are blood, armed to the teeth, and ready for service. We were conducted through long dark passages, up a precipitous staircase, wide enough only for one person to advance at a time. Landing places were frequent, and heavy doors at each, so as to cut off all communication: wherever a soldier could be placed on the narrow landings or passages, either above or below, there was no space left empty. In passing through the entrance, up this narrow stairway,the scene of so much bloodshed at different times, we were strongly impressed with the idea, that the lumps of dirt and the spots on the walls, were the blood and brains of many a victim; and however erroneous the opinion might be, we imagined every thing about the palace smelt of blood, as though it were the shambles of wretched human beings.

We passed through the anteroom, filled with his body guard, and found him reclining on a raised settee, covered with Turkey carpets. Captain G. and myself were requested to take seats on each side of him—he placing himself in the corner of the settee, probably as a precautionary means against treachery. He was a stout, noble looking man, having a bushy black beard and mustaches; his aspect was by no means ferocious. He was rather plainly dressed, in dark striped silk, and wore the red cloth cap.

He treated us with great affability and kindness, expressed himself highly gratified at the sight of two American men-of-war, (being the first, as we understood, that had ever entered the port.) He offered every assistance in his power, and sent to the ship a present of some bullocks, sheep, and vegetables. Our conversation related principally to the difference in charges paid on English and American vessels. It seems the English vessels pay a duty of two and a quarter per cent., without any other charges, while the Americans pay three per cent. Anchorage money, which was one hundred and eighty, has been increased as high as three hundred and fifty dollars on the largest vessels, although it has been lessened lately to two hundred and fifty: the harbour-master, also, is paid twenty-three dollars: there are, besides, some smaller impositions. He promised to do all that lay in his power, to equalize the charges on English and American vessels; but said that the government was in a very unsettled state at present; that he had sent despatches to the sultan of Stamboul, alias, Constantinople, announcing the conquest of this and other places in his name, and that he was now awaiting his orders, &c.

The wide anteroom-doors being open, the guard was within a few feet of us, and heard all our conversation. They were principally Turks: some wore the turban, and others the red military cap. They were heavily armed about the waist, with two pair of horse-pistols, a cimeter, and perhaps with one or two daggers; the handles of all being fancifully inlaid with silver. Their complexions were generally of a light olive, with black eyes and long beards. Some were quite white, having small very light blue eyes. They were fine looking men, possessing stout muscular frames. The sleeves of many were tucked up to the shoulder, showing a very brawny arm. They stood in a respectful attitude, but not cringing, like a Siamese or Cochin-Chinese, in the presence of a superior. They were indolent in their appearance, yet the ferocity of the tiger lurked in their countenances. A sign or a nod; a word, or even a wink, was sufficient for these blood-hounds to lay us dead at their master’s feet. But such fears were far from us, or that the delicious coffee of Yemen, which we were sipping, was imbued with poison.

Part of his fine stud of Arabian horses were handsomely caparisoned and brought to the door, for us to ride through the town and into the suburbs, to see the extensive villages of the Arabs, Sommanlis, or Abyssinians. The village, occupied formerly by the Jews, was deserted; what had become of them, we could not learn. Two slaves were placed at the stirrup of each horse to accompany the party: for the most part of the way they kept pace with the riders. These villages are situated, generally, in the midst of extensive date-groves. The houses of the Sommanlis have neat conical roofs, made of date-leaves, or coarse rushes, and the sides are of the same material, or of mats. They have woolly hair mostly, extremely black skins, but prominent noses, limbs well formed, fine teeth, and rather pleasant countenances: they are as straight built as the young areca.

There is a strange fashion prevailing among the fops of this village; that of changing the colour of their wool to a light brown or yellow; but as the colouring of gray hair, among a more civilized people, is by no means uncommon, they are not, therefore, altogether singular. These fops had no other covering to boast of than a waist-cloth.

MOCHA—BEGGARS.

The lofty mountains of Yemen afford great relief to the inland prospect; but in the immediate vicinity of Mocha, there is only an extensive date-grove; elsewhere every thing is desolate and steril: the eye wanders in vain for an oasis, for some green spot, and sees only tufts of coarse brown grass, and a plain of sand. The town has a very neat and substantial appearance from the roadstead, presenting to the view a compact mass of white buildings, mosques,minarets, and castles, breaking only the uniformity of the scene. They are lofty, so as to catch every breeze which passes over the walls—are flat-roofed, and the inhabitants sleep on them in consequence of the excessive heat. They are protected, in part, against the baneful effects arising from heavy dews, and from the power of the moon, by a light leaf roof; are clumsily built, mostly of brick baked in the sun; and there is no appearance that a level was ever used. The floors are undulating, like the waves of the sea. Crooked, dark, and narrow passages, and steep staircases, with strong doors at every landing, ready to be barricaded in case of an insurrection, or an enemy making his appearance, are common in every house: in fact, every dwelling is a strong castle. On entering within the city walls, all idea of comfort instantly vanishes; dirty, intricate streets are every where lumbered with the rubbish from ruined buildings; turbaned heads, the red military cap, and loose floating garments, are seen at every step, all being heavily armed about the waist, “ready to do battle;” women, with closely veiled faces; porters, sweating most profusely, under heavy loads of luscious dates, oozing through the meshes of the slight mat covering; strings of camels, laden with coffee, &c., from Yemen, lying in the streets, munching their allotted portion of hard brown beans, or bearing about skins of water for sale; asses, without number, laden variously; small droves of miserable cattle, or rather frames set up ready for filling out, if sufficient encouragement should be given to effect it. Abyssinian sheep, covered with hair instead of wool, having broad tails, hanging nearly to the ground: they are mostly black-headed, affording delicious mutton: goats, every where, grown fat even upon the coarsest rushes, and the twigs and leaves of the common thorn. But the most distressing sight is that of the poor, blind, diseased, and lame beggars, which meet you every where, in the streets and in the bazars, at the mosque-doors and at the doors of the palace, in the suburbs and at the gates of the city, begging most earnestly for the smallest pittance, for even one or two commassées, (a small copper coin, being three hundred and eighty to the dollar,) or a few cowries. Some of them were mere walking skeletons; their frames being covered with shrivelled brown parchment, stretched over what resembled bunches of dried catgut, being the muscular parts of the body. They had deep sunken cheeks, hollow to the bones, and sharp noses; the nostrilsbeing so nipped in as to present only the mark of an orifice, like an old closed and deep-cut wound, badly united: not a particle of flesh was on their legs, arms, or their collapsed bodies. Some could walk, but how it was effected, in their extremely emaciated condition, was a mystery of wonder; the slightest breath of wind would almost overpower them; and I was, several times, upon the eve of holding out my hands to save these shadows from being dashed to the ground. Death stared them in the face, and only suffered them to remain in misery a few moments longer, that they might complete, perhaps, their allotted task of penance, for the vile deeds done in the body.

We passed through extensive covered bazars, which appeared to be well supplied with goods. The size of some of the shops, or rather closets, was extremely small, the vender sitting with his legs under him, having every thing within reach of his hands. There was but little fruit and vegetables for sale, but fish and fowls, goats, sheep, and bullocks, in abundance; plenty of dates; some highly-flavoured, but extremely small oblong grapes; raisins, without seed; and ordinary pomegranates. Occasionally, there may be had water-melons, sweet potatoes, onions, a superior kind of sorrel, and some long gourds.

About the coffee-houses, (or rather sheds,) were seen, in groups, soldiers, smoking their chebouks, and sipping their small cups (resembling egg-cups) of coffee, made from the husk of the berry, without the addition of sugar or milk. They were generally reclining on rough-made settees, covered with the strong leaf of the date-palm. They were of all shades, from the deep black to the brown Bedouin, and to the unadulterated white from Georgia and the Caucasian mountains. They were, with scarcely an exception, men of noble features: their dresses were as various as the nations they came from. They pay only three or four commassées for their refreshments. This small coin, and cowries, are the only currency used in the bazars for small transactions; but Spanish dollars and German crowns are almost wholly used in larger ones; and Persian rupees, and those of Bombay and Surat, and foreign gold, are no strangers. During the time I was examining this motley group of strange beings, the hour of evening prayer drew nigh. As the sun disappeared behind the mountains of Abyssinia, a loud cry was heard—“Hark!” cried many voices:—

“Hark, from the mosque, the nightly solemn sound,The Muezzin’s call doth shake the minaret;‘There is no God but God: to prayer—lo! God is great.’”

Each one then spread his garment, or a mat, upon the ground, and instantly the assembled multitude of Mussulmans were on their knees, facing to the north towards Mecca, and praying to Allah with low prostrations, and every outward demonstration of intense devotion. It was a pleasing sight even to a “Giaour,” to one who never doubted the founder of their religion was not the “true prophet;” but still, it must be acknowledged, he was of infinite service in turning millions from gross idolatry, to the worship of “one true and ever-living God.”

EXPORTS FROM MOCHA.

The export of coffee from this place, annually, is about eight thousand bales, of three hundred and five pounds each; and the price, at present, is said to be from twenty-nine to thirty-two dollars per bale; but we paid at the rate of thirty-six dollars for some bales of the very first quality. A small part of this goes to the Persian gulf, to Surat, and Bombay, probably making, altogether, one half; the remainder is taken by the Americans. From the other ports in the Red sea, as high up as Djedda, (Judda,) it is carried to El Coseir, or Kooseir, Suez, &c.; and so on to Egypt, Turkey, &c. Gum Arabic, myrrh, frankincense, dates, and a few smaller articles, may be added to the list of exports. The difficulty of egress, during the northeast monsoon, the wind and current adverse and very strong, which commences about the latter part of September, is a great obstacle in trading to this port. If it was possible to direct the trade to Aden, situated a hundred miles to the eastward of cape Babel Mandeb, which is furnished with two good harbours, this very serious obstacle would be obviated. In no part of the world have I seen fish in greater abundance; they go in immense shoals, and appear, to an inexperienced eye, like low breakers over spits of sand, or a barred harbour. Birds are, in great numbers, hovering over them, waiting with impatience for their portion of food. Rock-weed is seen floating down the Red sea in great quantities. The only boat used for fishing, is the catamaran, similar to those already described. The stationary number of inhabitants in the city, is said not to exceed five thousand; but, at present, there are probably about ten thousand, in addition, including the soldiers, women and children, and other followers of the army. In the environs of the city, are seen thousands of miserable beings, lying on mats or on the sand, having a slight tent made of the date-leaf, a mat or two, or some rags tacked together, possessing little or no covering for the body, and apparently scarcely any thing on which to feed it, to prevent the immortal part from deserting the mortal.

I observed, in several houses, the “transparent stone,” which is placed over the tops of the latticed windows; there was as much light shed through it as through ground glass.

The colour of the Red sea has long given occasion to a variety of conjectures and speculations. Doctor Ehrenberg discovered that it was owing to small animalcules, which he names, “oscillatoria,” which hold a rank midway between plants and animals. This colour may hold good, as it regards the more northern part of the sea, but at Mocha it is of a light sea-green.

DEPARTURE FROM THE RED SEA—CAPE ROSSELGATE—ARRIVAL AT MUSCAT—BLIND BEGGARS—FIN BACK WHALES—BEDOUIN ARABS—PEARL ISLANDERS—ARAB ROBBERS—CURRENCY OF MUSCAT—NAVAL FORCE OF MUSCAT.

We remained in Mocha roads only two days, and then sailed, on the evening of the first of September, for Muscat. Owing to light winds, we did not pass the “Lesser Bab,” or the narrow straits of Babel Mandel, till three o’clock in the morning of the third, having drifted through them by the help of the current, in a night resplendently beautiful, and “in silence” passed we “through the Gate of Tears.”

MUSCAT.

Nothing remarkable occurred on our passage through the gulf and sea of Arabia, till the thirteenth, when we made Ras el Had, or cape Rosselgate, being the extreme northeastern limit of Arabia, having had the winds, during the passage, very light, from the southward and westward. Ras el Had is a low sandy point. A range of high mountains form the background of the landscape, which have an altitude of nearly seven thousand feet; this is a link in a chain of mountains, which extend as far as the Devil’s Gap and Kuriat, and are known by the name of Jeebel Huthera, or the Green mountains. Off the cape, were a great number of small boats fishing, principally with spears and grains; the harpooner standing in the bow, who, immediately on striking a fish, sprung into the water, more effectually to secure his prey. Sharks appeared to be their object, which are dried and shipped to various places; and the fins reserved solely for the China market. The surface of the water was red with myriads of crabs, which were sent forth by theGreat Providerof all things, to sustain the larger fish. The day previous to our arrival, as we lay at anchor, a few miles from Muscat, a boat was despatched, under the command of Acting-Lieutenant Brent, to the sultan, to inform him of our arrival, and the object of the visit. The boat returned laden with abundance of exquisitegrapes, of four different kinds, and ripedates, just plucked from the trees, and strung together like large golden beads, refreshing to the taste, and by no means too luscious or cloying to the appetite. There were other fruits also sent, such as the season afforded, with a number of goats and sheep, being presents from the sultan; bringing also complimentary messages, and congratulating us on our safe arrival, and expressing himself highly flattered, that, at length, United States’ ships-of-war should, for the first time, visit his ports, and more especially for the object of the mission. On the evening of the eighteenth, we anchored in Muscat cove, in company with the Boxer. The winds from the cape, were very light, from between southwest and southeast; and the current constantly against us, setting out of the Persian gulf. The coast appeared to be nearly as steril as that of Abyssinia or Somauli, being mountainous, barren, rocky, and sandy; but villages were much oftener to be seen, and frequently of a large size, in the midst of groves of the date-palm. Boats also were in great numbers, and well built, instead of the frail catamaran; they were provided with cotton sails, and the owners were, apparently, better fed than those about the Red sea, and wore most venerable long beards, quite outstripping any of the goat family. The waters were teeming with food—fish were in greater abundance, if it be possible, than about Mocha. In the morning, an interchange of salutes took place. The harbour, or rather cove of Muscat, is extremely limited in its dimensions; it does not exceed three fourths of a mile in depth, from its entrance at the small islet, called the Fishers’ Rock, lying off the northern part of the Muscat island, and its width, between the fort on the island, and another fort on the main, on the western shore, is scarcely one half its depth. It is open to the north, and during the prevalence of northerly and westerly gales, in the winter, a heavy sea is thrown in. The cove is bounded by very precipitous black rocks, running up to the height of three or four hundred feet, being much jagged or serrated; and on the higher parts are perched small circular towers, which are said to have been placed there by the Portuguese, in the “olden-time,” when they held possession of the place. They are, apparently, inaccessible to every thing, but hawks, gulls, and sea-swallows, which abound in its caverns and fissures. No place (excepting always a plain of sand) presents a more forbidding aspect than this; not a green thing is to be seen, whether tree, shrub, or plant, from the roadstead. The town and its two castles, which crown the tops of very high rocks, to the east and to the north, and which are evidently intended as much to overawe and defend the town, as the harbour, together with the two forts and its towers, are the only objects (if I may except a few white stone houses) which at all relieve the dreary prospect. Unless the wind blows from the northward, or a strong breeze from the southward and eastward, through the narrow gap, which separates Muscat island from the main land, the heat is excessive, for there is not the slightest degree of elasticity in the air; and the heated rocks are never cooled during three fourths of the year, and the sun seems to dart forth its rays with great malignity. During our stay, the night wind occasionally blew from the land, and then the heat was almost insupportable; every one complained of its suffocating effects, the perspiration poured from the body like rain, and the strength was at once prostrate. The town lies at the bottom of the cove, at the only level spot to be seen, between very high ridges of rocks in the southwestern quarter. It is walled, excepting the part fronting the harbour, having round towers at the principal angles. With the exception of the sultan’s palace, whose walls are bathed on the harbour side by “Oman’s green waters,” and on another side by the bazar, a narrow, dark covered street, and a few other decent looking houses, miserably built of stone, and coated with chunam, the larger portion are small, dark, and filthy, made of palm-branches only, or at best covered with mats, or coated with mud, so that the periodical rains frequently demolish a considerable portion of the city, and they are then seen floating in fragments through the streets, which are converted into so many canals, by the torrents of water which descend from the circumjacent mountains. A mat laid on the bare earth, is the bed of the occupants, and their hands pillow their heads; an earthen pot is their only cooking utensil, and dried camel’s dung and palm-branches their fuel. Dates and fish, in scanty quantities, twice a day, form generally their meals; and when they are so fortunate as to obtain a few ounces of goat-meat, it is cut into small pieces, and roasted on wooden skewers. The inhabitants are indolent, and those who areneither sailors nor soldiers, mechanics nor merchants, are miserably poor. Beggars are every where, and it is even a more remarkable place for blind people than Mocha; they are seen in groups at the corners of the streets, crying out in the most piteous manner, for the love of Allah, the holy prophet, and all the santons, to give them something to relieve their wretched condition. The lanes, or rather slits, between the buildings, are very irregular, encumbered with filth and rubbish; and the houses are similar in construction to those of Mocha. The city, within the walls, is reported to contain about twelve thousand inhabitants, and as every foot of ground is covered with buildings, (there being neither gardens nor open squares,) I suppose this number not to be exaggerated, notwithstanding the circumference of the walls does not exceed a mile. The larger part of the inhabitants are Arabs; the remainder are from various parts of Hindostan, Persians, Scindians, Abyssinians, and negro slaves from the coast of Zanzibar; all reposing in safety under the mild and equitable government of a very worthy prince. The population of the suburbs is estimated at five thousand. Here may be seen weavers manufacturing fine check cloth, with red and yellow silk ends, which form the turbans, universally worn by all who are born within the kingdom of Aman, whether the sultan or the subject. The weavers dig a hole in the ground, for their feet, and form a seat a step higher, to sit on; they use a very primitive loom, and the web is extended but a few inches above the ground, a light date-leaf shed serving to protect them against the rays of the sun. A few blacksmiths, coppersmiths, ropemakers, carpenters, and sandal-makers, are almost the only trades that are carried on to any extent. The mechanic arts are conducted in the streets, under open sheds. The bellows of the smiths are of a very primitive construction; two skins are so arranged, that while one is filling with air, they blow with the other; with a hand placed on each, they are alternately depressed and filled. A hole in the ground serves for a fireplace, and another for water; a stone serves for an anvil, and with clumsy hammers, and sitting on their hams, they carry on, in a very slow manner, their imperfect trade.SLAVE-BAZARS—BARBERS.The slave-bazar is near the landing-place, and a sale is made every evening towards sunset; the slaves are well oiled, to show a smooth skin, and they are decently dressed; the males with a waistcloth, and the females have, in addition, abreastcloth. The auctioneer parades them through the streets on the day of sale, and, if a higher price is not offered atpublicsale, than was bid privately, they are then delivered to the highest private bidder. Goods are hawked out about the streets in the same way; to wit, Cashmere shawls, swords, spears, rhinoceros shields, &c., &c. The slave-bazar is a great resort for Arab dandies; decorated with fine sabres and silver-hilted crooked daggers, which are worn in the shawls which encircle their waists; their long beards well perfumed, and their turbans arranged according to the prevailing fashion, they examine females as well as males, with little regard to delicacy, or even to common decency. In passing through the streets, we constantly met Arab, Abyssinian, and negro women with masks, having in them oblong eye-holes; they were made of black cloth or silk, some being bound with gold lace; their dress a black, blue, or dark robe, with trousers of the same, or else made of cross-barred silk. Very few of them turned their faces to the wall when we passed, but they stopped and took a full view of us. Hindoo barbers carry on their trade generally in the street. After having shaved the head, a part of the face, and over theeyelids, extracted the hairs from the nose and ears, trimmed the mustaches, and perfumed the beard with sweet-scented Arab oil, they conclude by cutting the finger and toe nails; the whole being done with an air of much gravity and importance. It is said they have the same characteristic marks here, that they do in many other parts of the world; being great tattlers, newsmongers, politicians, and story-tellers. The Arabs stain their feet black or red, nearly to the ankles; and the hands and nails of the fingers and feet with red henna, as well as a narrow black stripe along the outer edge of one or both eyelashes, with antimony, to give a more pleasing expression, and sparkling effect to the eye.

SLAVE-BAZARS—BARBERS.

Small fish being very abundant about the ship, the fishermen came in great numbers to throw their nets. They are of a circular form, and probably fifteen feet in diameter, loaded with small weights at the extremities, having a line fastened to the centre to draw it up; when thrown in it sinks gradually, the weights being light; when it has sunk to the depth of eight or ten feet, two divers jump overboard to drive the fish within the net; when they wish to draw it up, the weights close the bottom, and so secure all that are within its meshes.

Several divers were employed to find a sword which by an accident was lost overboard in eight fathoms, where the ship was anchored; two of them went down several times, and the greatest length of time either remained under water, wastwominutes andfiveseconds. The ship’s bottom being very foul, two large gangs of divers were employed to cleanse it, which was thoroughly effected with scrapers and rubbers in the course of four hours, taking off oysters of the size nearly of the palm of the hand, and barnacles also of a very large size; this was done at an expense of twenty-five dollars. It had a very ludicrous effect to see so many venerable long beards, white, grizzled and black, thus employed, and constantly popping their bare heads and dripping beards out of the water.

MUSCAT TOM—BEDOUIN ARABS.

We were many times in the day amused to see two very large fin-back whales fishing alongside, and under the bows and stern of the ship. The male has been a daily visiter in this harbour for upward of twenty years, and goes by the name of “Muscat Tom.” Formerly the cove was much infested with sharks, so that no person would venture into the water; but after he took possession, it was freed entirely of these pests, these sea-manduleens, (mandarins,) as the Chinese fishermen call them, in derision of the all-graspingland mandarins. A few years since he was missing for many days; the sharks ascertained by some means that he was “not at home” to payparticularattention to hisvisitersand invite themin; they therefore intruded upon his quarters, and not only banqueted upon his larder, which was filled with a great variety of fine fish, but actually invited andsore pressedsome of the land bipeds tofollowthem; as they are equally as well pleased with flesh as with fish, the consequence was, thenativesrefused to join any otherjamborcrushof the usurpers, and took a great dislike toaquatic parties. Happily at length, bold Tom returned, and every thing was restored to its proper order; for he had been like “Celebs in search of a wife;” and if he did not bring her home under his arm, he brought her under his fin, and “she was a helpmeet unto him;” and together they made a clearsweepof all the pests and incumbrances of their household, to the great joy of the land-animals, who again paid them frequent visits.

They have never been knownwilfullyto injure them; but occasionally when they were in full chase after aschoolofsmall frywho were playing truant within their submarine garden, they would unluckily upset the water carriage of their neighbours; however, as no offence was intended, an apology was deemed wholly unnecessary, and the natives acted a very wise part by not showing a useless resentment to their benefactors. Hourly the happy pair may be seen moving along very lovingly together “cheek by jowl,” occasionally sinking to the bottom, but not in search, as some may foolishly imagine, for——

“Wedges of gold, great anchors, heaps of pearl,Inestimable stones, unvalued jewels,All scattered in the bottom of the sea,Some lying in dead men’s sculls; and in those holesWhere eyes did once inhabit, there were creptAs ’twere in scorn of eyes:”—

but after something more useful; they are now seen rising with great swiftness perpendicularly half their length out of water, and with wide expanded jaws, catching all that comes within the vortex, filling the enormous sacks under their throats full to overflowing; and “thereby suck theyinno small advantage.” Whenever the water is too shallow to rise in this manner, they dash forward with the rapidity of lightning, making a great breach; their ponderous body being thrown frequently entirely out of water. Many fishermen follow them to catch the fish they kill, but do not swallow; and by these means obtain during the day a great number. Muscat Tom and his wife are never known to sleep in the harbour, having sufficient sagacity to know, that they might be cast on shore by the current, and so caughtnapping. I observed that the same silly custom prevails here with the fishermen, as in many parts of the United States and elsewhere, by spitting on their bait toinsure good luck. During our stay about two thousand Bedwin (Bedouin) Arabs arrived by order of the sultan; they were to be embarked on board the ships-of-war at the commencement of the northeast monsoon for Mombas, and other parts in Africa; they are a little darker coloured than the Arabs of Mocha, slender built, of good open countenances, and with fine sparkling eyes: the hair dressed in small-sized spiral curls, and profusely oiled, wearing a bandage around the head to confine it. They had no covering to the head, were naked excepting the waist, and were generally armed with spears.

There are a great number of small villages within a small distance of Muscat, wherever a tolerably level spot can be found between the precipitous rocks. The principal one of six, lying around the shore of Muttrah harbour, is the walled town of Muttrah, which is said to contain about eight thousand inhabitants, including a colony of Belooches, or Scindians, from the banks of the renowned Indus. They occupy a walled town within the walls of Muttrah, having sentries constantly posted at their only gate, which fronts the beach. The principal business transacted at Muttrah, is building and repairing of vessels. The poorer inhabitants of all these towns are very filthy and nearly naked, and not abundantly supplied with food, even of the meanest kind. They are very civil in their demeanour; but by no means deficient in curiosity. It is about two miles from Muscat to Muttrah. The passes between the rocks being very narrow, and exceedingly difficult, and the heat overpowering, the communication is kept up by means of canoes, neatly painted, having a temporary date-leaf roof, and a mat to sit on. Large droves of camels and dromedaries, from the interior, arrive daily, laden with wheat, dates, grapes, &c.

All religions, within the sultan’s dominions, are not merely tolerated, but they are protected by his highness; and there is no obstacle whatever to prevent the Christian, the Jew, or the Gentile, from preaching their peculiar doctrines, or erecting temples. The principal part of his subjects are of the sect of the Mahometans, called the Bee-asis: they profess to abstain from the use of tobacco, spirits, and all fermented liquors, and from every description of pomp and magnificence, in their dress, their houses, or their mosques. (The latter are very ordinary buildings, being destitute of all ornaments, and without minarets.) They do not grant pre-eminence to the descendants of Mahomet, but maintain that all who are Mussulmans by birth, are eligible for any employment in church or state. I was of the opinion, until I became better acquainted with these people, that they were more strict than the other sects, both in precept and practice; but their religious prejudices are broken down, the form only is left; and away from Muscat, or those who are not in the immediate employ of the sultan, and are therefore not in daily attendance upon his person, they use tobacco, as well as all intoxicating liquors, freely. This is frankly acknowledged by the sultan’s own officers. Several small craftarrived from the Bahrein islands, bringing a deputation from the principal ruler, requesting assistance and protection against the Wahabees or Joassames, who had again collected a large army, and threatened to take possession of their islands. It was said, they were in arrears for three or four years’ tribute-money, which they were first commanded to pay. A compromise was attempted by the deputies; but it was not settled when we left there. The vessels wore a striped flag, either of red and green or red and white.

HORSES—FRUITS—VEGETABLES.

The sultan possesses a very fine stud of Arab horses. I saw, at different times, about two hundred. He is the owner, as I was informed by the colonel, or commander of the Bedwin cavalry, of all the horses in Muscat, or the neighbouring towns. He was very desirous of sending to the President of the United States, two stallions and two mares of the best blood; but it was declined, because the ship was not of sufficient size to carry them, comfortably and safely, through the tempestuous weather usually encountered from the entrance of the Mozambique channel to the cape of Good Hope. The sultan’s horses are fed upon lucerne and dates; and it is said that most of the cattle, sheep, and goats, are fed upon dates and fish. The coarsest kind of grass, and rushes even, are difficult to be obtained at any price, and all the lucerne belongs to the sultan.

We found the mutton here very excellent, the sheep costing two dollars, and goats at various prices: fowls from one dollar to two and a half per dozen: bullocks, very fat and very palatable, at ten dollars each. But there were no hogs, turkeys, geese, or ducks. Fish was very abundant and cheap, and generally good flavoured. Both white and purple grapes were supplied us daily, and in profusion, by the sultan. The pomegranates were much superior to any I have ever seen. There were but few mangoes, the season for them having passed. The oranges were insipid, and tasted like the sweet lemon. Limes were very plentiful. The muskmelons gave out a fine perfume, but they were very tasteless. The dates, when not too ripe, had the flavour of a very sweet green chestnut. Pistachios, almonds, raisins, and kismisses, (or seedless raisins,) were plenty. Of vegetables, there were the long purple egg-plant, potatoes, onions, okra, and parsley. The date molasses was very good; wheat sold for one dollar and a quarter for onehundred English pounds; and a French brig was lading with it and jacks, for the Mauritius. The water, which supplies the shipping and the principal part of the inhabitants, is drawn from a very deep well outside the walls of Muscat, by a buffalo, up an inclined plane, and then brought in skins, on men’s backs, to the landing.

The sole object of our visit to Muscat, was to effect a commercial treaty with his highness, Syed Syeed bin Sultan, and to obtain a reduction of the duties and port-charges, heretofore paid on our commerce, so as to place it upon a footing with the most favoured nations. The sultan appointed an audience in the afternoon of the day subsequent to our arrival. I landed, in company with Captain Geisinger and Lieutenant-Commandant Shields, of the Boxer. We found the sultan, with his eldest son the governor of Burha, and ten gentlemen, composing his divan or council, sitting in the veranda, facing the harbour. The governor and the counsellors were sitting on chairs facing each other, and the sultan was seated about ten or twelve feet from them in a corner. He immediately arose, on our entrance, and walked to the edge of the raised floor, between the courtiers, and received us very graciously, shaking us by the hand. Here was to be seen no abasing crawling, and couching, and “knocking head,” like a parcel of slaves; but all was manly, and every one stood on his feet. The usual congratulatory compliments and inquiries were made; and coffee and sherbet were introduced. I was seated near to, and on the right hand of his highness; and we entered into a private conversation, through the interpreter, Captain Calfaun, relative to the object of the mission, (after having presented my credentials.) The sultan at once acceded to my wishes, by admitting our commerce into his ports upon the same terms of his most favoured friends, the British, to wit: by paying a duty of five per cent. on the cargolanded, and free from every other charge whatever, either on imports or exports, or even the charge of pilotage. When the fifth article of the proposed treaty was read, which related to shipwrecked seamen, he at once objected to that part of it relating to a remuneration for expenses, which would be necessarily incurred in supporting and forwarding them to the United States, and said, the article he wished so altered as to make it incumbent upon him to protect, maintain, and return them to their own country, free of every charge. He remarked, that it would be contrary to the usage ofArabs, and to the rights of hospitality, which have ever been practised among them; and this clause was also inserted, at his request. The sultan is of a mild and peaceable demeanour, of unquestionable bravery, as was evinced during the Wahabee war, where he was severely wounded in endeavouring to save an English artilleryman. He is a strict lover of justice, possessing a humane disposition, and greatly beloved by his subjects. He possesses just and liberal views in regard to commerce, not only throwing no obstacles in the way to impede its advancement, but encouraging foreigners as well as his own subjects.

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