PRICES OF WINES.
£s.d.Frontignac, per half aum of 19 gallons1326White ditto ditto1150Red ditto ditto976Pontac, the richest, ditto ditto22100
The last costing nearly six dollars per gallon. There will probably be added to the list of exports in a few years, olive-oil, cocoa, figs, almonds, nuts, dried, pickled and smoked fish, raw silk, cotton, tobacco, grapes and currants. If the British government would impose a reasonable duty oncapeproduceat home, the quantity of wine, brandy, dried fruits, &c., would be vastly increased, and many a barren field and neglected hill would blossom like the rose, and pour forth riches inexhaustible. That any duty at all should be paid, seems most strange and unnatural to an American, but that it should amount to a prohibition (as on wine) is unbearable. At their own sister-colonies, they are obliged to pay as follows; at Mauritius, six per cent. at New South Wales, five, and at Hobart town, Van Diemen’s land, fifteen per cent.: whereas in Brazil they pay only the latter duty. What would seem more strange to an American planter in Louisiana, than to have his produce most extravagantly taxed, or taxed at all in the state of Maine, but most fortunately it is prohibited by the constitution of the United States. No less a duty than two shillings and six pence sterling per gallon is paid on cape wine in England, and dried fruits are extravagantly taxed. Taxation withoutrepresentationwas one of the causes of revolution, and the stamp act was another, with both of which their colonies are burdened. It matters not whether they tax their colonists, on the spot where there domicil is, or whether it is done in England on their produce. The duty on imports and exports is the most important branch of the revenue of the cape. Great Britain requires the colony to pay the whole expense of her establishments, except the army and navy, and yet all important offices are filled by the crown. As it respects the local taxes theyare almost innumerable. Among these enumerated, I find every male or female, bond or free, who has arrived at the age of sixteen, pays an annual tax of six shillings sterling each, and ten shillings more on every servant, besides a tax on horses and carriages, on the productions of the farm, wine, brandy, &c., &c. In reference to household expenses, meat, fish and bread are cheap, but wood is extravagantly high, and ever will be, as no coal has ever yet been found in this, or in any other part of Africa; it is frequently as high as six to seven pounds ten shilling sterling per chaldron. Sydney can furnish it at a much cheaper rate, and it will probably soon be brought altogether from that quarter. Servants’ wages are higher here than in any other country, and house rent is at about the same rate as in New York. It seems almost incredible, yet it is unquestionably true, that the contract price for fresh beef and mutton (for 1833) to supply the garrison at the cape, should be at a fractionlessthan a penny per pound, and that bread should be furnished at a penny per pound; but I presume it is made of barley and oats, and probably a proportion of beans, as it is frequently in England, for it cannot be made of wheat for three times the price. This information is derived from Governor Wade. It is most surprising, that not a single whale-ship belongs to the cape, when whales are so abundant, even within sight of their harbours. There are two small boat-whaling establishments in False bay, one at Cape Town, one in Algoa, and one in Plettenberg’s bay. The boats are mostly of a bad construction, and too small; they fish only for cow whale, when they come into still water to calve, and cleanse themselves with sand; but this kind of fishery is very destructive to the species, and they have greatly diminished in numbers, so that the business is scarcely worth following. Neither do they dry, pickle or smoke fish for exportation, and yet the bays swarm with them, and there is a mine of wealth yet untouched on the bank of Agulhas. The Brazil and La Plata, the Mauritius, &c., would furnish good markets, and a fine hardy set of seamen would be raised for commercial and other purposes. The fishing on the bank is not so hazardous as that of Newfoundland, and they save a tedious voyage, in going and returning; in fact, it may be said they may be always in sight of their own homes. Salt is abundant, and the weather never cold, they can make their own lines and leads, lead being found in the colony, and they can raisecotton and make their sails and cordage, and there is a plenty of timber on the east and northeast coast. There are but eleven vessels belonging to the cape, of all descriptions, which are principally employed in coasting voyages to Port Elizabeth; they are from forty to one hundred and seventy tons, and their united tonnage is but one thousand one hundred and four tons. The colony has been represented to me, by many gentlemen, who have visited all the districts, as being poor, the soil generally very light and thin, and very deficient in water, the rivers being deep seated, which drains off the moisture from the surrounding country, subject to long and destructive droughts, and cursed with locusts and grasshoppers, and the karras or plains being very extensive, and totally unfit for cultivation, and withal very mountainous. But still, I am convinced, that abundance of grain can be raised to advantage, and wool, raw silk, wine, dried fruits, beef, &c., &c., besides the products of the ocean, can be exported to a large amount, but Saxony or Merino wool must become the most prominent article among the exports. The farmers are wisely rooting out the wire-haired,big-tailedcape sheep, and substituting those which havewool on their backs. It is not an article of luxury like wine, subject to fluctuations from mere change of fashion. If his late majesty, George the fourth, had taken a fancy to cape, instead of xeres, (sherry,) as he did a few years since, it would have been a fortunate circumstance for the colony: the hills would have been clothed with vines, instead of a green patch, here and there, dotting the surface like the oases in a desert.
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
The cape of Good Hope, from its fine geographical position, being placed on the highway between the world’s nations, must become a place of great importance, when the India and China trade is left free and unrestricted, as it ought and must be. It is a most convenient stopping place for the interchange of commodities, or to touch for supplies, or to obtain information; all they now want is an unshackled commerce, and a moderate duty laid on their produce in the parent-country, and by their sister-colonies. Without this reasonable aid, their agriculture, fisheries and commerce, will make but slow progress, and if the colony does not become a burden, it can never be of much advantage to England, excepting to draw off a part of her surplus population, or in case of a war. But the commerce of the Cape has latterly increased, notwithstandingburdens and the neglect of the parent-country. The number of foreign arrivals in Table bay (which was in every month in the year) from December seventeenth, 1831, to thirtieth November, 1832, was one hundred and ninety-seven; and at Simon’s bay thirty-six, including ships-of-war. At the time the Dutch held the Cape, no vessels lay in Table bay during the winter months, but now I am informed, no difference is made in the premium of insurance, between the winter and summer months. Hempen cables of an extreme size (and anchors of course in proportion) are always preferable to chain cables in any roadstead, where there is a heavy swell and violent gales from the ocean; but the first few fathoms from the anchor, should be chain to guard against rocks and other obstructions and anchors, and it can readily be secured to the hempen one. But still no cable is equal tocoir, having three valuable properties, being strong, buoyant and exceedingly elastic. In the La Plata and elsewhere, it has been found, that riding by two or more hemp cables in one string, in a violent gale and heavy sea, enables the ship to rise with buoyancy, but if a great length of chain is veered out, it lies upon the bottom and operates against the rise of the vessel, and she therefore feels the full force of the sea, which causes her to plunge deeply, or the sea to break over her, and consequently there is more danger of foundering.
ALGOA BAY—IMPORTS—POPULATION OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE—PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS—NEWS-PAPERS—DEPARTURE FROM THE CAPE—ARRIVAL AT RIO JANEIRO—DEPARTURE FROM RIO JANEIRO—ARRIVAL AT BOSTON HARBOUR—STATISTICAL TABLE.
ALGOA BAY—IMPORTS—POPULATION OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE—PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS—NEWS-PAPERS—DEPARTURE FROM THE CAPE—ARRIVAL AT RIO JANEIRO—DEPARTURE FROM RIO JANEIRO—ARRIVAL AT BOSTON HARBOUR—STATISTICAL TABLE.
The village in Algoa bay now called Port Elizabeth, is rising into importance most rapidly. Twelve years since, it contained four houses, and now it has upward of one hundred, and its residents are rated at above twelve hundred persons. It is one of the most prominent portions of the Cape colony, a place of resort for vessels to or from India. Subscriptions to the amount of five thousand pounds have been raised, for the purpose of building a lighthouse on cape Receife, and a jetty for the landing of goods. There are five ships connected with the direct trade to Europe. The number of vessels which have visited the port this year is about fifty. There is a good road leading to Graham’s Town, ninety miles in length; it is in the Albany district, and is said to contain upward of six thousand inhabitants. All imports and exports by sea, from Graham’s Town, &c., and the adjacent district of Uitenhage, are from this port. The imports in 1828 were fifty-five thousand two hundred and one pounds, and had increased in 1832 to one hundred and twelve thousand eight hundred and forty-five pounds, and the exports from forty-one thousand two hundred and ninety pounds, to eighty-six thousand nine hundred and thirty-one pounds. Provisions of all sorts are in abundance, and ships can be watered with great facility by pipes, leading from a pump to the sea. The exports are wine, brandy, vinegar, ivory, hides, skins, leather, tallow, butter, soap, wool, ostrich-feathers, salted beef, wheat, candles, aloes, barley, &c., &c.
Plettenberg’s bay is another place of resort for vessels in thewinter season, bound home from India. The roadstead is open to southeast, but the anchorage is good, in eight, nine, and ten fathoms. The bay is spacious, with sufficient room to beat out, in southeast gales. The number of inhabitants is about four hundred, upward of one half being white. Cattle and sheep are plentiful, and it is noted for the excellence of its butter; and the timber is abundant.
There is no port of consequence lying between Plettenberg’s bay and Da Lagoa excepting port Natal, and this has but thirteen feet of water at its entrance; but it is well sheltered from prevailing winds. A few English traders are only to be found there at present, but there is no doubt that the British government will have a small garrison stationed there in the course of 1834. The merchants at Cape Town are preparing to take immediate advantage of this well-situated port, and protection from the government follows of course. The traders now penetrate one hundred and fifty miles along the southern coast beyond Natal, and far into the interior, in a northerly direction. There are no other ports, suitable for large ships to visit, than those already named, lying between False bay and Da Lagoa. The country about Natal is represented as being very fertile, well wooded and watered, and the climate healthy; it was exceedingly populous until the modern Attila,Chaka, took possession of it, and slaughtered most of the inhabitants. It abounds in cattle, and ivory is abundant. The Kowie and great Fish rivers, where there is a great number of English settlers, may be made good ports, whenever suitable improvements are made at their embouchures; they are barred like most of the rivers from the Cape to Da Lagoa, or I may as well say all the rivers in Southern, Eastern and Northeastern Africa, or from the cape of Good Hope to cape Guardafui.
The whole line of North Africa, or the coast leading from the cape of Good Hope to Benguela, is represented as being worthless, Saldunha bay, and the coast lying between it and Cape Town, being the only part where European settlers are found. Saldunah bay is well sheltered from violent winds, having a sufficient depth of water, but the country is very sandy and agriculture but little attended to; a few cattle and sheep are raised among the scanty herbage. Except one or two bays where whales resort, the remaining part offers no inducements to adventurers.
IMPORTS AND EXPORTS.
I herewith present the amount of the imports and exports into Table, Simon’s, and Algoa bays, for the year 1831:—
Pounds sterling.The imports into Table bay, from Great Britain, were271,687„ „ „ British colonies35,620„ „ „ Foreign states35,833„ „ „ United States of America1,207332,527Pounds sterlingThe imports into Simon’s bay, from Great Britain120 10 0„ „ „ British colonies1,352 5 0„ „ „ Foreign states628 5 02,101Ditto, ditto, Algoa bay, port Elizabeth, from Great Britain9,458 5 0„ „ „ British colonies778 15 0„ „ „ Foreign states187 0 010,244The whole amount of imports into the Cape of Good Hope colonies£345,052The exports from Table Bay to Great Britain were100,509„ „ „ British colonies64,596„ „ „ Foreign states11,513£176,618Ditto, ditto, Simon’s Bay to Great Britain2,941 0 0„ „ „ British colonies1,561 0 0„ „ „ Foreign states1,296 0 0„ „ „ Navy supplies5,476 0 011,277Ditto, ditto, Algoa Bay, port Elizabeth to Great Britain24,019 0 0„ „ „ British colonies4,800 0 0„ „ „ Foreign states1,892 0 030,711£218,606In the amount of exports, from the three ports named, twenty-nine thousand and thirty-six pounds were articles of foreign growth or manufacture, leaving the sum of one hundred and eighty-nine thousand, five hundred and seventy pounds, being the value of articles of colonial produce for the year 1831.The value of exports to Port Elizabeth, in 1831, from Table Bay, was£44,672Value of imports, in return, from Port Elizabeth34,640These sums not being included in the above statements, must be added to the aggregate of these ports respectively. Since April, 1832, Cape Town and Simon’s Town have been declared “free warehousing ports;” and Port Elizabeth was declared a “free port” only—all goods of every description whatever, the growth, productions, or manufacture of Great Britain, or any of the possessions of the British crown, pay a duty of three pounds per centum. All goods being the growth, produce, or manufacture of any of the East India company’s possessions, pay ten pounds per centum. Any foreign nation, at peace with Great Britain, may import, in foreign ships, any goods, being the growth, produce, or manufacture of such foreign nation, ten pounds per cent., and they may export any goods to any country, &c. All casks, barrels, staves, heading, or hoops, to be used as wine casks,duty free.No gunpowder, arms, ammunition, or utensils of war, or fresh or salted beef, pork, dried or salted fish, train oil, blubber, fins, or skins of creatures living in the sea, can be imported, except from Great Britain, or some British possession in America. Noteacan be imported, except by the East India company, or some British possession in America.Accounts are kept in pounds, shillings, pence, and farthings, or rix dollars, skillings, and stivers. One stiver is equal to three eighths of a penny; six stivers, two and one fourth, or one skilling;eightskillings, eighteen pence, or one rix dollar. Three shillings and ninepence is the par value of the Spanish dollar, but they were sold by the purser of the Peacock at four shillings; and doubloons, at sixteen dollars, or three pounds four shillings. Bills on England were three shillings and eleven pence sterling per dollar.The weights made use of in this colony, are derived from the standard pound of Amsterdam, and the pieces permitted to be assized, are from fifty pounds down to one loot, or the thirty-second part of a pound, which is regarded as unity.Proportions between colonial and British weights and measures. Weights: ninety-one pounds and four fifths, Dutch, are equal to one hundred pounds English, avoirdupois. Measures: corn, four Dutch schepels are equal to one Dutch muid, one hundred and seven ditto, to eighty-two.Winchester bushels. A load of ten muids is equal to thirty bushels, two pecks, one gallon, and one pint English; eight bushels make a quarter English.One ell of cloth is equal to twenty-seven Rhynland inches; one hundred and thirty-three, fifty-one hundredths, Dutch ells, are equal to one hundred English yards.The truth is, that all articles of produce are sold by English weight, and not Dutch, unless by a special agreement.POPULATION.The colony of the cape of Good Hope is divided into ten districts. Herewith, I present a table, showing the whole amount of the population for 1831-1832; the number of births, marriages, and deaths. Mr. Greig, the editor and publisher of the South African Almanac, says, “It is compiled from tax and rolls, and there is an omission of the itinerants’ and Hottentots’ settlement at Kat river, &c., to the number of between fifteen and sixteen thousand;” and Cape Town is supposed to contain about twenty-two thousand, in December, 1833, instead of the number stated.Districts.Free Persons, white & coloured.Slaves.TotalBirths.Mar.Deaths.Males.Females.Males.Females.Males.Females.Cape Town6,4106,9492,9212,9069,3319,855644138638Cape District3,7032,9772,7091,4736,4124,4501232898Stellenbosch3,8543,6774,7244,1088,5787,785296102189Worcester5,7585,6552,6672,1358,4257,79057767261Swellendam6,0637,8671,6501,3817,7137,24860649325George3,2862,7401,1061,0684,3923,8082194660Uitenhage5,1354,4856776165,8125,1013006081Albany3,5722,70572673,6442,7721773489Somerset4,4944,3757816235,2754,998384119107Graff Reinet6,3974,6131,5059447,9025,55715612774Total48,67244,04318,81215,32167,48459,3643,4827701,922
In the amount of exports, from the three ports named, twenty-nine thousand and thirty-six pounds were articles of foreign growth or manufacture, leaving the sum of one hundred and eighty-nine thousand, five hundred and seventy pounds, being the value of articles of colonial produce for the year 1831.
These sums not being included in the above statements, must be added to the aggregate of these ports respectively. Since April, 1832, Cape Town and Simon’s Town have been declared “free warehousing ports;” and Port Elizabeth was declared a “free port” only—all goods of every description whatever, the growth, productions, or manufacture of Great Britain, or any of the possessions of the British crown, pay a duty of three pounds per centum. All goods being the growth, produce, or manufacture of any of the East India company’s possessions, pay ten pounds per centum. Any foreign nation, at peace with Great Britain, may import, in foreign ships, any goods, being the growth, produce, or manufacture of such foreign nation, ten pounds per cent., and they may export any goods to any country, &c. All casks, barrels, staves, heading, or hoops, to be used as wine casks,duty free.
No gunpowder, arms, ammunition, or utensils of war, or fresh or salted beef, pork, dried or salted fish, train oil, blubber, fins, or skins of creatures living in the sea, can be imported, except from Great Britain, or some British possession in America. Noteacan be imported, except by the East India company, or some British possession in America.
Accounts are kept in pounds, shillings, pence, and farthings, or rix dollars, skillings, and stivers. One stiver is equal to three eighths of a penny; six stivers, two and one fourth, or one skilling;eightskillings, eighteen pence, or one rix dollar. Three shillings and ninepence is the par value of the Spanish dollar, but they were sold by the purser of the Peacock at four shillings; and doubloons, at sixteen dollars, or three pounds four shillings. Bills on England were three shillings and eleven pence sterling per dollar.
The weights made use of in this colony, are derived from the standard pound of Amsterdam, and the pieces permitted to be assized, are from fifty pounds down to one loot, or the thirty-second part of a pound, which is regarded as unity.
Proportions between colonial and British weights and measures. Weights: ninety-one pounds and four fifths, Dutch, are equal to one hundred pounds English, avoirdupois. Measures: corn, four Dutch schepels are equal to one Dutch muid, one hundred and seven ditto, to eighty-two.
Winchester bushels. A load of ten muids is equal to thirty bushels, two pecks, one gallon, and one pint English; eight bushels make a quarter English.
One ell of cloth is equal to twenty-seven Rhynland inches; one hundred and thirty-three, fifty-one hundredths, Dutch ells, are equal to one hundred English yards.
The truth is, that all articles of produce are sold by English weight, and not Dutch, unless by a special agreement.
POPULATION.
The colony of the cape of Good Hope is divided into ten districts. Herewith, I present a table, showing the whole amount of the population for 1831-1832; the number of births, marriages, and deaths. Mr. Greig, the editor and publisher of the South African Almanac, says, “It is compiled from tax and rolls, and there is an omission of the itinerants’ and Hottentots’ settlement at Kat river, &c., to the number of between fifteen and sixteen thousand;” and Cape Town is supposed to contain about twenty-two thousand, in December, 1833, instead of the number stated.
Total126,848Add for the army2,500129,348Add omissions, say15,652Making a grand total of145,000
This settlement, which was founded by the Dutch, under Governor Riebeck, in 1652, contained in 1832 but a little upward of one hundred and forty thousand, there not being so many inhabitants as there are in the city of New York or Philadelphia, whereas the first English settlement of Puritans, which landed in New England but thirty-two years previous, now numbers upward of two millions, and the United States not less than fifteen millions. The Dutch held it from 1692 to 1795, when it was placed under the protection of the British government, by order of the prince of Orange. It was restored to the Batavian government in the commencement of 1803. In January, 1806, it capitulated to the English arms under General Sir D. Baird, and it is now an integral part of the British empire.
On a calm and beautiful morning, before the sun had tinged the mountains of Hottentots’ Holland, or Table mount, we were preparing for a ride to the celebrated vineyard of Constantia and to Simon’s town. J. B. Ebden, Esq., Captain Geisinger and myself, went in an excellent carriage, having six fine horses, accompanied by Captain Shields of the Boxer, Lieut. Craver of the Peacock, Mr. Poor of the Boxer, &c., on horseback. A pleasant ride of five miles brought us to the beautiful village of Wynberg, passing on the right of the Devil’s Peak. This village is adorned with a great number of gentlemen’s seats, and neat cottages, the avenues leading to them having well-trimmed hedges of myrtle and oak, and over shadowed by pine, oak or fruit trees, the grounds being ornamented with flowers and shrubs, and the porches shaded with luxuriant grape-vines. A small but very pretty new church, belonging to the Episcopalians, graces a rising ground on the right. We proceeded on about five miles further, where the road branches to the left and to the right, the former being the direct road to Simon’s town, and the latter leading to Constantia, &c. We breakfasted at the picturesque seat of the late Governor Cole, at Protea, with Mr. Scott of Bengal. From thence we went about three miles out of the direct road, passing the Newlands, a celebrated seat of a former governor, Lord Somerset, who lavished some eighty thousand pounds sterling upon it, at the expense of the British government. We passed through a noble avenue of ancient oaks, which led to Great Constantia, where we found a very substantial Dutch dwelling-house, having extensive out-buildings on the right, withthe wine-store in the rear. We were very kindly and hospitably received, and treated to a taste of four kinds of very old, rich wine, drawn out of some of the immense leaguers, which line both sides of an extensive building. Every thing about the place is in excellent order; the variety of fruits, flowers, shrubs and creeping plants, and live hedges, made it truly enchanting.
CONSTANTIA.
A fine stream of water runs through it, from the range of mountains, on the decline of which the vineyard is situated. From this estate two other vineyards have been formed, viz.: high and low Constantia, so called from their relative positions to the mountains. There is a most commanding view from the upper garden, the mountains about Hottentots’ Holland, cape Hanglip and the range of mountains leading towards the celebrated cape of Good Hope, as well as False bay and the Indian ocean, and had we ascended to the top of the mountains, which overlook Constantia, about three thousand feet, we could have seen both oceans at one view, the Indian and South Atlantic. The vines, which were hanging thick with clusters of fruit, are kept as low as three feet; only two fruit-bearing shoots of three eyes are left of the last year’s growth. The grapes are trodden out with the feet, as well as pressed out, the former being preferred, as in ancient times. There was but little to gratify the sight after leaving this hospitable place, till our arrival at Simon’s town. On the left is a low sandy isthmus, (having on it many lagoons,) which connects the cape district with Hottentots’ Holland; it is about twelve miles in length, and separates Table from False bay; there can be no doubt but that cape district was once separated from the main land, and this plain was formed by the accumulation of sand, thrown in by the gales from the Atlantic and Indian oceans. A few miserable hovels are scattered here and there, over this dreary isthmus, and on the right toward the mountains, there were a few ordinary cottages, and a solitary shepherd watching his flock, but scarcely a tree was seen in any direction, excepting a few Proteas, or those about the farm-houses. We wound round the base of Mysenberg, which is about two thousand feet high, passing through a dreary and uncomfortable looking fishing village of the same name. Proceeding on, we came next to Fishhook bay, where there is a poor village, having a small whaling establishment. At this place we came to a low, sandy isthmus, which is mostly covered at high water, and leads to Chapman’s bay, on the west; this isthmus separates in nearly equal divisions the northern from the southern range of mountains, they being in length twenty-nine miles, from the Lion’s Rump to the cape of Good Hope.
About two miles from the latter village is Elsey peak, about twelve hundred feet high, round which the road passes, the base being washed by the sea, and then we came to the bay and village of the same name, having another small whaling establishment; but the inhabitants had shaken hands with poverty, and these three villages are evidently fast going to ruin. Two miles further brought us to Simon’s town; it was suddenly presented to our view on winding round the base of a mountain, with its naval arsenal and pretty white houses, having altogether a neat and cheerful appearance. A frigate, a merchant-ship and a sheer hulk, were riding quietly at anchor on the glassy bosom of the bay. We stopped at a neat hotel, and after a visit to Admiral F. Warren and family, by whom we were very kindly and hospitably received, we visited the arsenal, this being the cape rendezvous for British ships-of-war on this station, and found every thing in fine order and well arranged, viz.: suits of sails, boats, blocks, rigging, masts, chain and hemp cables, anchors, &c.; all in readiness for use from a seventy-four-gun ship to a sloop. The streets were in good order, and the houses very convenient and well built of stone or brick, and stuccoed, and the whole aspect of the place was favourable, and had an air of comfort and cleanliness, although bounded by barren, woodless and precipitous mountains and hills, with only here and there a few scattered fruit or forest trees about private enclosures. The town is represented to have a population of one thousand seven hundred inhabitants.
False bay is easy of access to vessels of the greatest depth of water, having but few dangers and those visible. No harbour can surpass that of Simon’s bay in point of security, having a sufficient depth of water for ships of any burden; the winds may be said never to blow from the east, which is the only point from which vessels are exposed. The winds most prevalent in False bay, are from the southeast, and Simon’s bay is completely sheltered from their violence; and in the winter from the north, which does not affect vessels materially, which are properly secured. Boats can always land, and refreshments of all kinds may be had, excellent fresh beef and mutton, and salted cape beef, with bread, biscuit, vegetables, wine, butter, &c., &c.
The bay abounds with fish, and if there is any deficiency of articles in the town, they may always be procured from Cape Town by the wagons. Horses and carriages are always to be had, and the mail runs twice a week to the capitol, during the warm months, and three times during the cool part of the season; the distance is twenty-one miles. Within the district there are plenty of cattle, and sheep, and wheat raised, and wine and brandy made in abundance. It is every way a most convenient and safe port for refreshments, and to repair vessels, and a most desirable haven for shelter to the way-worn mariner, who has been buffeting the storms of winter about this “cape of torments.” Our return occupied the space of three hours, and was performed by the same set of horses throughout, with perfect ease.
PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.
The following public institutions are established at Cape Town: TheSouth African library, in a building at one end of the Grand Parade, is at once the pride and boast of the colony. It contains about ten thousand volumes in all departments of literature, and is highly creditable to the place. The South African college, founded in 1829, is spoken of in high terms by the inhabitants, although a large portion of the sons of wealthy parents are sent to England to complete their education. It has a professor of classical and English literature, as well as one for Dutch, and one for mathematics and the principles of astronomy. It has also a Dutch assistant and teacher of German, an English assistant, a mathematical assistant, writing-master, and drawing-master. There is also a society for promoting Christian knowledge, a philanthropic society for the diminution of slavery in the colony, and a royal observatory, having an astronomer, an assistant-astronomer, and a chronometer and instrument maker; a Bible union instituted in 1818; a South African infant school; a savings bank; a South African literary and scientific institution, to which is attached an excellent museum; a medical society, a “European and burial society;” this society was formed in 1795, for supporting poor and unfortunate fellow-countrymen, during their illness, and in the event of their death, to cause them to be respectably interred. It is a Dutch institution, and now possesses considerable funds. A “Saint Andrews,” friendly society, for the benefit of the Scotch, founded in1820, to afford relief in sickness, and medical assistance. A widows’ and old women’s fund; a widows’ private fund to afford relief to the widows of deceased members; a South African missionary society; a London missionary society, established in 1795; a Wesley missionary station society for Southern Africa. The school of industry, for the instructing female children of all denominations in reading and needlework; there is also a Sunday school attached to it. There are also a ladies’ benevolent society, an English choral society, and eight Sunday schools.
The commercial exchange is a handsome commodious edifice, having a lofty and spacious centre-hall: the tables are furnished with newspapers, and there is a good supply of mercantile works of reference with maps, &c. Most of the public meetings are held here; the north wing is used by the South African public library; a masonic hall is held in another room, and it has a ball-room, fifty-eight feet by twenty-four.
There are also acolonial insurance companyand anagricultural society, which are likely to be highly useful, not only to Cape Town but the whole colony, branches being already established in most of the districts. There are a temperance society, having nine branches, in almost every district; anorphan house, and two “free schools,” besides other institutions. There is an English church now building, called St. George’s church, at a probable expense of sixteen thousand pounds sterling; the Rev. George Hough is the chaplain; the service is at present performed in the Dutch reformed church, at noon, after the Dutch society has retired. The new church is calculated to hold one thousand persons, of which three hundred seats are reserved for the poor. A Lutheran church: St. Andrew’s church (Presbyterian:) a Roman Catholic chapel, and a Wesleyan and Methodist chapel, &c., &c.
There are four newspapers printed in the colony, three at Cape Town and one at Graham’s town, the Government Gazette being one of them. There has also been published since June, 1830, a monthly publication called the Cape of Good Hope Literary Gazette; each number contains twelve quarto pages. It is a most respectable periodical, and contains a great deal of original matter, on general and local topics: it is independent in its tone, liberal in its doctrines, and deserving of encouragement. The “South African Almanac and Directory,” for 1833, possesses very highmerit, and I am deeply indebted to it, for no inconsiderable portion of statistical matter, &c., relative to the colony of the cape of Good Hope.
MUSEUM.
Attached to the South African literary and scientific institution is a museum; no museum I have yet seen, will compare with this, in the superior arrangement of the birds and beasts; nothing can be in finer order than the first: it would require many years of study and observation, and a fine tact, to be able to arrange them in their natural state as they are—to catch, in fact, the “living beauty,” when sporting among the wilds of his native bowers. There are many hundreds in the highest state of preservation; the beauty of their plumage is unsurpassed. There is also a small but valuable collection of shells, minerals, fossils, coral, sponge, &c., &c. A French gentleman is the artist, the preserver and arranger of this beautiful museum. I regretted much, that an hour was all I had to devote to these beautifully arranged objects of nature. There are a noble lion and a lioness at the upper end of the public garden, belonging to government. There were for sale in Cape Town a number of zebras from the Snow-berg mountains; these were in fine order and appeared to be very tractable, and several were mounted without any difficulty. This animal is so well known that it is unnecessary to attempt giving any description of it; their coats were in such good order, and the yellow ground and black stripes so bright, distinct, and perfect, that one can scarcely believe it is other than a work of man’s fancy; it differs from the zebra of the plains, by having black rings upon the legs. The price was ninety pounds sterling per pair; they are built very compactly, and are said to be a very hardy animal; there was an “ant bear,” but it differed materially from one I saw at Buenos Ayres; the body and nose of the latter were longer, and the bristles on the back also of greater length, and more rigid and wiry: he was very harmless, and suffered any one to handle him: a spring-bock-springer, antelope, or showy-bock was also for sale: he had a cavity about the lower part of the rump, adjoining the tail, the hair being quite white: when he bounded in the air this spot dilated by the effort, and closed again on descending. The above animals, as well as birds, reptiles, &c., were for sale by Mr. Reid, in Roland street—a “collector of curiosities” as he styles himself on his card.
Mr. Villet in Long street has a very great collection of animals living and dead: the living ones are at his garden at Green Point. He is also a nursery seedsman and florist: prepares birds, skins, insects, &c. There are many other “collectors of curiosities.” The enormous prices paid by the English generally, put all the traders on the frontier upon the “qui vive;” and the shell-collectors at Table and Simon’s bay, &c., find a ready sale and high prices for paper-nautilus, beautiful limpits in great variety, as well as scaly chitons, &c.
Dr. Smith has in his possession a stuffed Hottentot woman, formerly a well-known notoriously bad character in Cape Town; she was skinned in a very complete manner, excepting the head, hands and feet, the fleshy part being taken away, and then preserved and stuffed and placed in a standing position; it is almost the first attempt ever made: the features are the same as when living: she was about thirty years of age, of middle height, and well made, having close set and small tufted twists of hair; apparently no bridge to the nose, thin lips, with the extraordinary projection behind, which is common to her nation. The Hottentots are unquestionably a distinct race, from the rest of mankind, with the peculiarities well known.
There is a race-course at Green point; the horses have a high celebrity for swiftness, strength and beauty. It has been found that the racehorses imported from England cannot compete with them. It is probable they never fully recover from the fatigues of a tedious voyage.
The oil which is preferred, is taken from the top of the tail of the cape sheep; it burns without smoke or smell. The acorns are preserved in fresh water, and the cattle fed on them as well as grass.
There are regular mails to twenty-five different towns. The rate of postage for a single letter, is from twopence to thirteen pence sterling.
There are stationed within the colony three regiments of soldiers, the seventy-second Highlanders, the ninety-fifth and seventy-fifth regiments; the two first named are at Cape Town and vicinity, the seventy-second being stationed in various parts of the colony. I will only say they are in the finest order possible, and the officers of the royal artillery and royal engineers, are gentlemen that would honour any situation in which they might be placed.
Robbin island is low land, raised but a few feet above the level of the sea, and can only be seen at a short distance, lying parallel with the main and devoid of trees. It seems on the first view to be a part of the continent; it is the Botany bay of the cape, and has a small garrison; there is a good anchorage on the southeastern side, and a safe passage between it and the continent.
EXPEDITION TO AFRICA.
There is an expedition preparing for discoveries in the interior of Africa, to consist of about forty persons, under the direction of a most worthy and scientific man, Dr. A. Smith. It was to leave Graff Reinet, being the most convenient place of rendezvous, on the first of June, 1834. At that place there can easily be procured oxen, wagons and attendants. It is in contemplation to penetrate as far as the equator, in a northeasterly direction, but the course will be varied according to circumstances; the time it will occupy will probably be two years. The objects in view are to enlarge the geographical knowledge of the extensive and unknown regions to the northward of this settlement, to obtain scientific information, especially as it regards the branches of meteorology, geology and magnetism; to collect botanical specimens, and those of natural history, and to ascertain what prospects the productions of the country, and the disposition of the native tribes, hold out to commercial enterprise, are the chief aims of the intended experiment. There is to be a botanist, a surveyor and a draftsman, capable of delineating landscape and portraying objects of natural history, and a person capable of conducting the trading department of the expedition. It seems there are to be seven wagons, with one European, and four Hottentots, to each, and one hundred and twenty crew, and it is probable that two sergeants and ten soldiers will be added to the number. The cost of the expedition will amount, probably, to not less than two thousand pounds, exclusive of the necessary instruments, maps, &c. Lieutenant Edie of the ninety-eighth regiment will assume the command, in case of accident to Dr. Smith. Both of these gentlemen lately returned from a journey to Natal. May every success attend so laudable an undertaking: it is fraught with innumerable dangers, from sickly climates,savagebeasts, and still more savage men.
It is in contemplation to build a break-water, into the bay, commencing near the Chavonne battery, and a survey has been completed. If a double railway is made from the quarries on the sideof the hill called the Lion’s Rump, which is at a very short distance, the full cars on descending could be made to return the empty, and then it would be done at a small expense, considering the importance of the object.
On the twenty-first, our stock of provisions being replenished, we took leave of our hospitable friends. The ship tacked and stood in shore, and then tacked again and stood off, the main-topsail being aback; a salute of twenty-one guns was fired, the English flag being hoisted at the main. The compliment was returned by the castle, the ship “filled away,” and we passed between Robbin island and the main, owing to the wind being light, from the northward and westward. The convict-houses on the island are on the eastern side. The neatness of the officers’ quarters and the soldiers’ barracks, gave some relief to a very barren spot. The verdant vine-fields, the pleasant town, and the cloud-capped Table mount, gradually receded from our view, as we approached the land about Saldanha bay. The weather was fine, the temperature of the air was delightful; a smooth sea, with light breezes, accompanied us to the coast of Brazil, so that the smallest boat in the ship could have performed the passage with perfect ease and safety. We did not attempt to make much westing until the ship had arrived in the latitude of about eighteen, and in the longitude of about eight west, owing to the baffling and uncertain winds which are always experienced in a higher latitude, as an approach is made toward the sea, midway between the two continents, and toward the coast of America. And we derived but little benefit from northerly and westerly currents, which only assisted us about one hundred and fifty miles. On the seventeenth January, (1834,) we once more wereblessedwith the sight of “Lord Hood’s gigantic nose,” and the Vac d’Assucar, and anchored the next morning in Rio harbour. Having been deprived nearly twenty months of letters from home, great anxiety was expressed by all for the return of the boat, which had been despatched on shore and to the Natchez to procure them—hopes and fears rushed on the fancy of all, as the return boat approached the ship—the budget at length arrived, and was opened and distributed, the seats torn asunder, and the contents read with the utmost rapidity, and in a few minutes the delightful sound that “all’s well” was heard from the cabin to the ward-room, and from the steerage to the berth, gun,and spar decks, repaying all for the thousand perils they had encountered from stormy oceans, treacherous reefs, and baneful climates. Such is the delight most painfully earned by a long, protracted absence from our country, and our friends.
The Boxer having parted company soon after leaving Table bay, and keeping more to the westward than the Peacock, caused a delay of two days in her passage beyond ours. I remained at Rio until the arrival from “the river” of the Lexington, commanded by Captain M’Keever.