Rodgersia.—Handsome herbs of the saxifrage family.R. podophyllawith large bronzy-green leaves cut into 5 large lobes, and tall branching spikes 3 to 4 ft. high—the whole plant resembling one of the large meadow sweets.R. aesculifolia, yellowish-white;R. Henrici, deep purple;R. pinnata, fleshy pink; andR. sambucifolia, white, are recently introduced species from China. They require rich sandy peat and warm sheltered spots.Romneya.—R. Coulteri, a fine Californian plant, with large white flowers on shoots often as high as 7 ft.;R. trichocalyxis similar. Both require very warm, sunny spots and rich, sandy soil, and should not be disturbed often.Rudbeckia.—Bold-habited composite plants, well suited for shrubbery borders, and thriving in light loamy soil. The flower-heads have a dark-coloured elevated disk.R. Drummondii, 2 to 3 ft., with the ray-florets reflexed, yellow at the tip and purplish-brown towards the base;R. fulgida, 2 ft. golden-yellow with dark chocolate disk, the flower-heads 2 to 3 in. across; andR. speciosa, 2 to 3 ft., orange-yellow with blackish-purple disk, the flower-heads 3 to 4 in. across, are showy plants.Sagittaria.—Graceful water or marsh plants with hastate leaves, and tuberous, running and fibrous roots.S. japonica plena;S. lancifolia,S. macrophyllaandS. sagittifolia, are among the best kinds, all with white flowers.Salvia.—The Sage, a large genus of labiates, often very handsome, but sometimes too tender for English winters.S. Sclarea, 5 to 6 ft., is a very striking plant little more than a biennial, with branched panicles of bluish flowers issuing from rosy-coloured bracts;S. patens, 2 ft., which is intense azure, has tuberous roots, and may be taken up, stored away and replanted in spring like a dahlia.S. pratensis, 2 ft., blue, a showy native species, is quite hardy; the variety lupinoides has the centre of the lower lip white.Saxifraga.—A very large genus of rock and border plants of easy culture. The Megasea group, to whichS. ligulata,S. cordifoliaandS. crassifoliabelong, are early-flowering kinds of great beauty, with fleshy leaves and large cymose clusters of flowers of various shades of rose, red and purple. Another very distinct group with silvery foliage—the crustaceous group—contains some of our choicest Alpines. Of theseS. caesia,S. calyciflora,S. Cotyledonare among the best known. Some of the species look more like lichens than flowering plants. The green moss-like saxifrages are also a very distinct group, with dense tufted leaves which appear greener in winter than in summer. The flowers are borne on erect branching stems and are chiefly white in colour.Saxifraga umbrosa(London Pride) andS. Geumbelong to still another group, and are valuable alike on border and rockery.S. peltatais unique owing to its large peltate leaves, often 1 ft. to 18 in. across, with stalks 1 to 2 ft. long. Flowers in April, white or pinkish. Likes plenty of water and a moist peaty soil or marshy place.S. sarmentosa, the well-known “mother of thousands,” is often grown as a pot plant in cottagers’ windows.Scilla.—Beautiful dwarf bulbous plants, thriving in well-worked sandy loam, or sandy peat.S. bifolia, 3 in., andS. sibirica, 4 in., both intense blue, are among the most charming of early spring flowers;S. patula, 6 to 8 in., andS. campanulata, 1 ft., with tubular greyish-blue flowers, freely produced, are fine border plants, as is the later-bloomingS. peruviana, 6 to 8 in., dark blue or white.Sedum.—Pretty succulent plants of easy growth, and mostly suitable for rockwork. They are numerous, varied in the colour of both leaves and foliage, and mostly of compact tufted growth.S. spectabile, 1 to 1½ ft., pink, in great cymose heads, is a fine plant for the borders, and worthy also of pot-culture for greenhouse decoration. Mention may also be made of the commonS. acre(Stonecrop), 3 in., yellow, and its variety with yellow-tipped leaves.Sempervivum.—House-Leek. Neat-growing, succulent plants, forming rosettes of fleshy leaves close to the ground, and rapidly increasing by runner-like offsets; they are well adapted for rockwork, and do best in sandy soil. The flowers are stellate, cymose, on stems rising from the heart of the leafy rosettes.S. arachnoideum, purplish,S. arenarium, yellow,S. globiferumandS. Laggeri, rose, grow when in flower 3 to 6 in. high;S. calcareum, rose colour, andS. Boutignianum, pale rose, both have glaucous leaves tipped with purple;S. Heuffelii, yellow, with deep chocolate leaves, andS. Wulfeni, sulphur-yellow, are from 8 to 12 in. high.Senecio.—A large genus with comparatively few good garden plants. Large and coarse-growing kinds likeS. Doria,S. macrophyllusandS. sarracenicusare good for rough places; all yellow-flowered.S. pulcheris a charming plant, 2 to 3 ft. high, with rosy-purple flower-heads, having a bright orange centre. It likes a warm corner and moist soil.S. clivorum, from China, has large roundish leaves and orange-yellow flowers. It flourishes near water and in damp places.Shortia.—S. galacifolia, a beautiful tufted plant 2 to 3 in. high, with roundish crenate leaves, on long stalks, and white funnel-shaped flowers in March and April.S. uniflorafrom Japan is closely related. The leaves of both assume rich purple-red tints in autumn. Warm sunny situations and rich sandy loam and peat are required.Silene.—Pretty caryophyllaceous plants, preferring sandy loam, and well adapted for rockwork.S. alpestris, 6 in., white, andS. quadridentata, 4 in., white, are beautiful tufted plants for rockwork or the front parts of borders;S. maritima flore-pleno, 6 in., white,S. Elizabethae, 4 in., bright rose, andS. Schafta, 6 in., purplish-rose, are also good kinds.Sisyrinchium.—Pretty dwarf iridaceous plants, thriving in peaty soil.S. grandiflorum, 10 in., deep purple or white, blooms about April, and is a fine plant for pot-culture in cold frames.Sparaxis.—Graceful bulbous plants from South Africa.S. grandiflora, with deep violet-purple, andS. tricolor, with rich orange-red, flowers are best known.S. pulcherrima, a lovely species, 3 to 6 ft. high, with drooping blood-red blossoms, is now referred to the genusDierama. A warm, light, but rich soil in sheltered spots required.Spiraea.—Vigorous growing plants of great beauty, preferring good, deep, rather moist soil; the flowers small but very abundant, in large corymbose or spicate panicles.S. Aruncus, 4 ft., white;S. astilbioides, 2 ft., white;S. Filipendula, 1½ ft., andS. Ulmaria, 3 ft., both white;S. palmata, 2 ft., rosy-crimson; andS. venusta, 3 ft., carmine rose, are some of the best.Statice.—Pretty plants with broad, radical leaves, and a much-branched inflorescence of numerous small flowers.S. latifolia, 2 ft., greyish-blue;S. tatarica, 1 ft., lavender-pink;S. speciosa, 1½ ft., rose colour; andS. eximia, 1½ ft., rosy-lilac—are good border plants.S. bellidifolia, 9 in., lavender;S. emarginata, 6 in., purple;S. globulariaefolia, 9 in., white; andS. nana, 4 in.—are good sorts for the rockery.Stenactis.—S. speciosa, 1 to 2 ft., is a showy composite, of easy culture in good garden soil; it produces large corymbs of flower-heads, with numerous narrow blue ray-florets surrounding the yellow disk. Now more generally known as Erigeron.Stipa.—S. pennata(Feather Grass), 1½ ft., is a very graceful-habited grass, with stiff slender erect leaves, and long feathery awns to the seeds.Stokesia.—S. cyanea, 2 ft., is a grand, autumn-flowering, composite plant, with blue flower-heads, 4 in. across. Sandy loam and warm situation.Symphytum.—Rather coarse-growing but showy boraginaceous plants, succeeding in ordinary soil.S. caucasicum, 2 ft., with blue flowers changing to red, is one of the finer kinds for early summer blooming.Thalictrum.—Free-growing but rather weedy ranunculaceous plants, in many cases having elegantly cut foliage.T. aquilegifolium, 2 ft., purplish from the conspicuous stamens, the leaves glaucous, is a good border plant; andT. minushas foliage somewhat resembling that of the Maidenhair fern. Ordinary garden soil.Tiarella.—T. cordifolia, the foam flower, is very ornamental in border or rockery. Leaves heart-shaped lobed and toothed; flowers white starry; ordinary garden soil.Tigridia.—Lovely bulbous plants called tiger flowers, useful in the warmest parts of the kingdom for the border in rich but gritty soil.T. Pavonia, the peacock tiger flower, from Mexico, grows 1 to 2 ft. high, with plaited sword-like leaves, and large flowers about 6 in. across, having zones of violet and yellow blotched with purple and tipped with scarlet. There are many varieties, all charming.Trillium.—T. grandiflorum, the wood-lily of North America, is the finest. It has large white flowers and grows freely in peaty soil in shady borders. There are several other species, some with purplish flowers.Tritonia.—A genus of South African plants with fibrous-coated corms or solid bulbs, often known as montbretas.T. crocata, 2 ft., orange-yellow,T. crocosmiaeflora, 2 to 2½ ft., orange-scarlet, andT. Pottsi, 3 to 4 ft., bright yellow, are the best-known varieties, of which there are many subsidiary ones, some being very large and free in flowering. A rich, gritty soil, and warm, sunny situations are best for these plants.Triteleia.—Charming spring-flowering bulbs, thriving in any good sandy soil.T. Murrayana, 8 in., lavender-blue, andT. uniflora,6 in., white, are both pretty plants of the easiest culture, either for borders or rockeries.Tritoma.—Splendid stoutish-growing plants of noble aspect, familiarly known as the Poker plant, from their erect, rigid spikes of flame-coloured flowers; sometimes called Kniphofia.T. Uvaria, 3 to 4 ft., bright orange-red, passing to yellow in the lower flowers, is a fine autumnal decorative plant. They should be protected from frosts by a covering of ashes over the crown during winter.Trollius.—Showy ranunculaceous plants, of free growth, flowering about May and June.T. europaeus, 18 in., lemon globular;T. asiaticus, 2 ft., deep yellow; andT. napellifolius, 2 to 2½ ft., golden yellow, are all fine showy kinds. Rich and rather moist soil.Tulipa.—Splendid dwarfish bulbs, thriving in deep, sandy, well-enriched garden soil, and increased by offsets. They bloom during the spring and early summer months.T. Gesneriana, the parent of the florists’ tulip, 12 to 18 in., crimson and other colours;T. Eichleri, 1 ft., crimson with dark spot;T. Greigi, 1 ft., orange with dark spot edged with yellow, and having dark spotted leaves;T. oculus solis, 1 ft., scarlet with black centre; andT. sylvestris, 12 to 18 in., bright yellow, are showy kinds.Veratrum.—Distinct liliaceous plants with bold ornamental leaves regularly folded and plaited.V. album, 3 to 5 ft., has whitish blossoms in dense panicles, 1 to 2 ft. long.V. nigrum, 2 to 3 ft., has blackish-purple flowers, alsoV. Maacki, 2 ft. Rich sandy loam and peat.Verbascum.—Showy border flowers of erect spire-like habit, of the easiest culture.V. Chaixii, 4 to 5 ft., yellow, in large pyramidal panicles;V. phoeniceum, 3 ft., rich purple or white; andV. formosum, 6 ft., golden yellow in dense panicles, are desirable species.Veronica.—The Speedwell family, containing many ornamental members; all the hardy species are of the easiest cultivation in ordinary garden soil. The rotate flowers are in close, erect spikes, sometimes branched.V. crassifolia, 2 ft., dark blue;V. incarnata, 1½ ft., flesh-colour;V. corymbosa, 1½ ft., pale blue in corymbosely-arranged racemes;V. gentianoides, 2 ft., grey with blue streaks;V. spicata, blue, and its charming white varietyalba; andV. virginica, 5 ft., white, are distinct.Vinca.—Periwinkle. Pretty rock plants, growing freely in ordinary soil.V. herbacea, of creeping habit, with purplish-blue flowers;V. minor, of trailing habit, blue; andV. major, 1 to 2 ft. high, also trailing, are suitable for the rock garden. The last two are evergreen, and afford varieties which differ in the colour of their flowers, while some are single and others double.Viola.—Violet. Charming dwarf plants, mostly evergreen and of tufted habit, requiring well-worked rich sandy soil.V. calcarata, 6 in., light blue;V. cornuta, 6 to 8 in., blue;V. lutea, 4 in., yellow;V. altaica, 6 in., yellow or violet with yellow eye;V. palmaensis, 6 to 8 in., lavender-blue;V. pedata, 6 in., pale blue; andV. odorata, the Sweet Violet, in its many single and double flowered varieties, are all desirable.Yucca.—Noble subarborescent liliaceous plants, which should be grown in every garden. They do well in light, well-drained soils, and have a close family resemblance, the inflorescence being a panicle of white, drooping, tulip-shaped flowers, and the foliage rosulate, sword-shaped and spear-pointed. Of the more shrubby-habited sortsY. gloriosa,recurvifoliaandTreculeanaare good and distinct; and of the dwarfer and more herbaceous sortsY. filamentosa,flaccidaandangustifoliaare distinct and interesting kinds, the first two flowering annually.The taste for cultivation of the class of plants, of which the foregoing list embraces some of the more prominent members, is on the increase, and gardens will benefit by its extension.Hardy Trees and Shrubs.—Much of the beauty of the pleasure garden depends upon the proper selection and disposition of ornamental trees and shrubs. We can only afford space here for lists of some of the better and more useful and ornamental trees and shrubs, old and new.The following list, which is not exhaustive, furnishes material from which a selection may be made to suit various soils and situations. The shrubs marked * are climbers.Hardy Deciduous Trees.Acer—Maple.Larix—Larch.Aesculus—Horse-Chestnut.Liriodendron—Tulip-tree.Ailantus—Tree of Heaven.Magnolia.Alnus—Alder.Morus—Mulberry.Amygdalus—Almond.Negundo—Box-Elder.Betula—Birch.Ostrya—Hop Hornbeam.Carpinus—Hornbeam.Paulownia.Carya—Hickory.Planera.Castanea—Sweet Chestnut.Platanus—Plane.Catalpa.Populus—Poplar.Celtis—Nettle Tree.Prunus (Plums, Cherries, &c.).Cercis—Judas Tree.Ptelea—Hop Tree.Cotoneaster (some species).Pyrus—Pear, &c.Crataegus—Thorn.Quercus—Oak.Davidia.Rhus—Sumach.Diospyros.Robinia—Locust Tree.Fagus—Beech.Salix—Willow.Fraxinus—Ash.Sophora.Ginkgo—Maidenhair Tree.Taxodium—Deciduous Cypress.Gleditschia—Honey Locust.Tilia—Lime.Gymnocladus—Kentucky Coffee Tree.Ulmus—Elm.Juglans—Walnut.Virgilia.Kolreuteria.Xanthoceras.Laburnum.Hardy Evergreen Trees.Abies—Silver Fir.Libocedrus.Araucaria—Chili Pine.Magnolia grandiflora.Arbutus—Strawberry Tree.Picea—Spruce Fir.Biota—Arbor Vitae.Pinus—Pine.Buxus—Box.Quercus Ilex—Holm-Oak.Cedrus—Cedar.Retinospora.Cephalotaxus.Sciadopitys—Umbrella Pine.Cryptomeria—Japan Cedar.Sequoia (Wellingtonia).Cupressus—Cypress.Taxus—Yew.Ilex—Holly.Thuiopsis.Juniperus—Juniper.Thuya—Arbor Vitae.Laurus—Bay Laurel.Tsuga.Hardy Deciduous Shrubs.Abelia.Halesia—Snowdrop Tree.Acer—Maple.Hamamelis—Wych Hazel.Amelanchier.Hibiscus—Althaea frutex, &c.Ampelopsis.*Hippophaë—Sea Buckthorn.Amygdalopsis.Hypericum—St John’s Wort.Aralia.Jasminum*—Jasmine.Aristolochia.*Kerria.Berberis—Berberry.Lonicera*—Honeysuckle.Bignonia*—Trumpet Flower.Lycium.*Buddleia.Magnolia.Calophaca.Menispermum*—Moonseed.Calycanthus—Carolina Allspice.Periploca.*Caragana.Philadelphus—Mock Orange.Chimonanthus.Rhus—Wig Tree, &c.Clematis.*Ribes—Flowering Currant.Colutea—Bladder Senna.Robinia—Rose Acacia, &c.Cornus—Dogwood.Rosa—Rose.Cotoneaster (some species).Rubus*—Bramble.Crataegus—Thorn.Spartium—Spanish Broom.Cydonia—Japan Quince.Spiraea.Cytisus—Broom, &c.Staphylaea—Bladder-Nut.Daphne.Symphoricarpus—Snowberry.Deutzia.Syringa—Lilac.Edwardsia.Tamarix—Tamarisk.Euonymus europaeus—Spindle Tree.Viburnum—Guelder Rose, &c.Forsythia.Vitis*—Vine.Fremontia.Weigela.Genista.Hardy Evergreen Shrubs.Akebia.*Hedera*—Ivy.Arbutus.Hypericum—St John’s Wort.Aucuba—Japan Laurel.Ilex—Holly.Azara.Jasminum*—Jasmine.Bambusa—Bamboo.Kadsura.*Berberidopsis.*Lardizabala.*Berberis—Berberry.Laurus—Sweet Bay.Buddleia.Ligustrum—Privet.Bupleurum.Lonicera*—Honeysuckle.Buxus—Box.Osmanthus.Ceanothus.Pernettya.Cerasus—Cherry-Laurel, &c.Phillyrea.Cistus-Sun-Rose.Photinia.Cotoneaster.Rhamnus Alaternus.Crataegus Pyracantha—Fire Thorn.Rhododendron—Rose-Bay.Daphne.Rosa*—Rose.Desfontainea.Ruscus.Elaeagnus—Oleaster.Skimmia.Erica—Heath.Smilax.*Escallonia.Stauntonia.*Euonymus.Ulex—Furze.Fabiana.Viburnum—Laurustinus.Fatsia (Aralia).Vinca—Periwinkle.Garrya.Yucca—Adam’s Needle.Griselinia.Bedding Plants.—This term is chiefly applied to those summer-flowering plants, such as ivy-leaved and zonal pelargoniums, petunias, dwarf lobelias, verbenas, &c., which are employed in masses for filling the beds of a geometrical parterre. Of late years, however, more attention has been bestowed on arrangements of brilliant flowering plants with those of fine foliage, and the massing also of hardy early-blooming plants in parterre fashion has been very greatly extended. Bedding plants thrive best in a light loam, liberally manured with thoroughly rotten dung from an old hotbed or thoroughly decomposed cow droppings and leaf-mould.Spring Bedding.—For this description of bedding, hardy plants only must be used; but even then the choice is tolerably extensive. For example, there are the Alyssums, of whichA. saxatileandA. gemonenseare in cultivation;Antennaria tomentosa; the double whiteArabis albida; Aubrietias, of which the best sorts areA. CampbelliaeandA. grandiflora; the doubleBellis perennisor Daisy; the Wallflowers, includingCheiranthus Cheiri(the Common Wallflower),C. alpinaandC. Marshallii; Hepaticas, the principal of which are the varieties ofH. triloba, and the blueH. angulosa; Iberis or Candytuft;Lithospermum fruticosum; Myosotis or Forget-me-not, includingM. alpestris,M. dissitiflora,M. azoricaandM. sylvestris; Phloxes, likeP. subulata, with its varietiessetacea,Nelsoni,nivalis; the single-flowered varieties of the Primrose,Primula vulgaris; the Polyanthuses;Pyrethrum Parthenium aureum, called Golden Feather;Sempervivum calcareum; the pink-floweredSilene pendula; self-coloured varieties of the Pansy,V. tricolor, and ofV. luteaandV. cornuta, as well as some recent hybrids. Besides these there are the various spring-flowering bulbs, such as the varieties of Hyacinthus, Tulipa, Narcissus, Fritillaria, Muscari or Grape Hyacinth, Crocus, Scilla, Chionodoxa and Galanthus or Snowdrop.Summer Bedding.—There is great variety amongst the plants which are used for bedding-out in the garden during the summer months, but we can note only some of the most important of them. Amongst them are the Ageratums, the old tall-growing sorts of which have been superseded by dwarfer blue and white flowered varieties; Alternantheras, the principal of which areA. amoena,amoena spectabilis,magnifica,paronychioides major aureaandamabilis;Alyssum maritimum variegatum; some of the dwarf varieties ofAntirrhinum majus;Arundo Donax variegata; Begonias; Calceolarias; Cannas;Centaurea ragusina; Clematises, of which the hybrids of theJackmannitype are best;Dahlia variabilis, and the single-flowered forms ofD. coccinea; Echeverias, of whichE. secundaandE. metallicaare much employed; Gazanias; Heliotropes; Iresines; Lantanas; Lobelias;Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum; Pelargoniums, of which the various classes of zonal or bedding varieties are unapproachable for effect and general utility; Petunias; Phloxes;Polemonium coeruleum variegatum;Pyrethrum Parthenium aureum, the well-known Golden Feather, especially useful as an edging to define the outline of beds upon grass; Tropaeolums, especially some of the varieties ofT. Lobbianum; and Verbenas, the offspring ofTweedieana,chamaedrifoliaand others. Few bulbs come into the summer flower gardens, but amongst those which should always be well represented are the Gladiolus, the Lilium, the Tigridia and the Montbretia.Subtropical Bedding.—Foliage and the less common flowering plants may be used either in masses of one kind, or in groups arranged for contrast, or as the centres of groups of less imposing or of dwarfer-flowering subjects; or they may be planted as single specimens in appropriate open spaces, in recesses, or as distant striking objects terminating a vista.Carpet Beddingconsists in covering the surface of a bed, or a series of beds forming a design, with close, low-growing plants, in which certain figures are brought out by means of plants of a different habit or having different coloured leaves. Sometimes, in addition to the carpet or ground colour, individual plants of larger size and handsome appearance are dotted symmetrically over the beds, an arrangement which is very telling. Some of the best plants for carpeting the surface of the beds are:Antennaria tomentosaandLeucophytum Browni, white;Sedum acre,dasyphyllum,corsicumandglaucum, grey; andSedum Lydium,Mentha Pulegium gibraltarica,Sagina subulataandHerniaria glabra, green. The Alternantheras, Amaranthuses, Iresines andColeus Verschaffeltifurnish high and warm colours; whilePyrethrum Parthenium aureumyields greenish-yellow:Thymus citriodorus aureus, yellowish;Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum, creamy yellow; Centaureas and others, white;Lobelia Erinus, blue; and the succulent Echeverias and Sempervivums, glaucous rosettes, which last add much to the general effect. In connexion with the various designs such fine plants asAgave americana,Dracaena indivisaare often used as centre-pieces.Greenhouse Plants.—These are plants requiring the shelter of a glass house, provided with a moderate degree of heat, of which 45° Fahr. may be taken as the minimum in winter. The house should be opened for ventilation in all mild weather in winter, and daily throughout the rest of the year. The following is a select list of genera of miscellaneous decorative plants (orchids, palms and ferns excluded; climbers are denoted by *; bulbous and tuberous plants by †):AbutilonColeusLachenalia†AcaciaCoprosmaLantanaAgapanthusCordylineLapageria*AgathaeaCorreaLilium†AgaveCupheaLophospermum*AlonsoaCyclamen†Mandevillea*AloysiaCyperusManettia*Amaryllis†CytisusMutisia*ArdisiaDarwinia (Genetyllis)Myrsiphyllum*AsparagusDiosmaMaurandya*AspidistraDracaenaNerine†Asystasia (Mackaya)Eccremocarpus*NeriumAzaleaEpacrisPelargoniumBaueraEpiphyllumPetuniaBegonia†EricaPimeliaBlandfordiaEriostemonPlumbago*Bomarea*ErythrinaPolianthes†BoroniaEucalyptusPrimulaBougainvillea*EupatoriumRhododendronBouvardiaEuryaRichardia (Calla)†BrugmansiaFicusSalviaCalceolariaFuchsiaSarraceniaCamelliaGrevilleaSolanumCampanulaHaemanthus†SparmanniaCannaHeliotropiumStaticeCelosiaHibiscusStrelitziaCestrum*Hoya*StreptocarpusChorizema*HydrangeaSwainsoniaChrysanthemumImpatiensTacsonia*CinerariaJasminum*TecomaClianthusJusticiaTradescantiaCliviaKalosanthesVallota†Cobaea*Stove Plants.—For the successful culture of stove plants two houses at least, wherein different temperatures can be maintained, should be devoted to their growth. The minimum temperature during winter should range at night from about 55° in the cooler to 65° in the warmer house, and from 65° to 75° by day, allowing a few degrees further rise by sun heat. In summer the temperature may range 10° higher by artificial heat, night and day, and will often by sun heat run up to 90° or even 95°, beyond which it should be kept down by ventilation and frequent syringing and damping down of the pathways. During the growing period the atmosphere must be kept moist by damping the walls and pathways, and by syringing the plants according to their needs; when growth is completed less moisture will be necessary. Watering, which, except during the resting period, should generally be copious, is best done in the forenoon; while syringing should be done early in the morning before the sun becomes too powerful, and late in the afternoon to admit of the foliage drying moderately before night. The following is a select list of genera of stove plants (climbers are denoted by *, bulbous and tuberous plants by †):AcalyphaCyanophyllum (Miconia)MusaAchimenes†CycasNelumbium†AeschynanthusDieffenbachiaNepenthesAllamanda*Dipladenia*Nymphaea†Alocasia†DracaenaOxera*Amaryllis†EranthemumPancratium†AnthuriumEucharis†PandanusAphelandraEuphorbiaPassiflora*AraliaFicusPavettaArdisiaFrancisceaPetraea*Arisaema†GardeniaPleroma*Aristolochia*GesneraPoinsettiaAtacciaGloriosa*RondeletiaBegoniaGloxinia†SancheziaBertoloniaHeliconia†Schubertia*Bignonia*HoffmanniaScutellariaBromeliadsIpomaea*StephanotisCactusIxoraTabernaemontanaCaladium†JacobiniaTerminaliaCalatheaJasminum*ThunbergiaCentropogonLuculiaToreniaCissus*MarantaThyrsacanthusClerodendron*MedinillaTydaeaCrinum†MeyeniaVincaCodiaeum (Croton)Orchids.—For the successful cultivation of a mixed collection of tropical orchids, it is necessary that two or three houses, in which different temperatures can be maintained, should be provided. The greater number of them are epiphytes or plants that grow on others without absorbing nourishment from them, and heat and moisture afford all or nearly all the nourishment they require. At one time it was thought the plants themselves were better for being associated with such objects as ferns and palms, but they are best grown by themselves.The East Indian orchid house takes in those species which are found in the warm parts of the eastern hemisphere, as well as those from the hottest parts of the western, and its temperature should range from about 70° to 80° during the summer or growing season and from 65° to 70° during winter. The Mexican or Brazilian orchid house accommodates the plants from the warm parts of South America, and its temperature should range from about 65° to 75° during summer and from 60° to 65° in winter. A structure called the cool orchid house is set apart for the accommodation of the many lovely mountain species from South America and India, such asodontoglossums,masdevallias, &c., and in this the more uniform the temperature can be kept the better, that in summer varying between60° and 65°, and in winter from 45° to 60°. A genial moist atmosphere must be kept up in the hottest houses during the growing season, with a free circulation of air admitted very cautiously by well-guarded ventilators. In winter, when the plants are at rest, little water will be necessary; but in the case of those plants which have no fleshy pseudobulbs to fall back upon for sustenance, they must not be suffered to become so dry as to cause the leaves to shrivel. In the Mexican house the plants will generally be able to withstand greater drought occasionally, being greatly assisted by their thick pseudobulbs. In the cool or odontoglossum house a considerable degree of moisture must be maintained at all times, for in these the plants keep growing more or less continuously.For potting or basketing purposes, or for plants requiring block-culture, the materials used are light fibrous peat, special leaf-mould, osmunda or polypodium fibre and living sphagnum moss, which supply free drainage for the copious supply of water required. Good turfy loam is also used for some, such ascypripediumsandcalanthes. Indeed the composts now used are varied considerably according to the particular group of orchids. The water should, however, be so used as not to run down into the sheathing bases of the leaves. While in flower, orchids may with advantage be removed to a drier and cooler situation, and may be utilized in the drawing-room or boudoir. Of late years not only have many fine hybrids been raised artificially between various species, but some remarkable bigeneric hybrids (between what are considered two distinct genera) have also been produced (indicated in the list below by *). To keep a valuable collection of orchids in good condition requires the services of an expert orchid grower.The following is a select list of genera in cultivation:—AcinetaCymbidiumPeristeriaAdaCypripediumPescatoreaAëridesCyrtopodiumPhajusAngraecumDendrobiumPhaio-calanthe*AnguloaDiacriumPhalaenopsisAnoectochilusDisaPilumnaAnselliaEpidendrumPlatyclinisArachnantheEulophiaPleioneArpophyllumEulophiellaPleurothallisBarkeriaGaleandraPolystachyaBatemanniaGongoraPromenaeaBifrenariaGrammatophyllumRenantheraBrassavolaHabenariaRestrepiaBrassiaHoulletiaRodrigueziaBrasso-Cattleya*IonopsisSaccolabiumBroughtoniaIpseaSchomburgkiaBulbophyllumLaeliaScuticariaBurlingtoniaLaelio-Cattleya*SobraliaCalantheLeptotesSophro-cattleya*CatasetumLissochilusSophronitisCattleyaLycasteSpathoglottisChysisMasdevalliaStanhopeaCirrhopetalumMiltoniaThuniaCochliodaMormodesTrichopiliaCoeliaOdontoglossumTrichosmaCoelogyneOdontioda*VandaComparettiaOncidiumZygo-colax*CycnochesPachystomaZygopetalumPalms.—These form charming table and drawing-room plants when quite young. When more fully developed, and long before their full growth is attained, they are among the most decorative plants known for the conservatory and for subtropical gardening. They are easily cultivated, but should not be allowed to become dry. The soil should consist of about 3 parts turfy loam, 1 part leaf mould, 1 part coarse silver sand, with enough chemical or other manure added to render the whole moderately rich. The older plants will occasionally require the roots pruned in order to keep them in as small pots as possible without being starved. This should be done early in the spring, and the plants heavily shaded until feeding roots are again produced. It is of advantage to afford stove culture while the plants are quite young. A little later most of the genera succeed well under moderately cool conditions.The following genera are among those most commonly cultivated:AcanthophoenixChamaeropsMartineziaAcanthorhizaCocosOreodoxaArecaCoryphaPhoenixBactrisGeonomaPritchardiaBraheaHyophorbeRhapisCalamusKentiaSabalCaryotaLataniaStevensoniaCeroxylonLivistoniaThrinaxChamaedoreaFerns.—These popular plants are usually increased by means of their spores, the “dust” produced on the back of their fronds. The spores should be sown in well-drained pots or seed pans on the surface of a mixture of fibrous sifted peat and small broken crocks or sandstone; this soil should be firmly pressed and well-watered, and the spores scattered over it, and at once covered with propagating glasses or pieces of sheet glass, to prevent water or dry air getting to the surface. The pots should be placed in pans full of water, which they will absorb as required. A shady place is desirable, with temperature of 50° to 55° by night and 65° to 70° by day, or they may be set on a shelf in an ordinary propagating pit. The spores may be sown as soon as ripe, and when the young plants can be handled, or rather can be lifted with the end of a pointed flat stick, they should be pricked out into well-drained pots or pans filled with similar soil and should be kept moist and shady. As they become large enough, pot them singly in 3-in. pots, and when the pots are fairly filled with roots shift on into larger ones.The best time for a general repotting of ferns is in spring, just before growth commences. Those with creeping rhizomes can be propagated by dividing these into well-rooted portions, and, if a number of crowns is formed, they can be divided at that season. In most cases this can be performed with little risk, but the gleichenias, for example, must only be cut into large portions, as small divisions of the rhizomes are almost certain to die; in such cases, however, the points of the rhizomes can be led over and layered into small pots, several in succession, and allowed to remain unsevered from the parent plant until they become well-rooted. In potting the well-established plants, and all those of considerable size, the soil should be used in a rough turfy state, not sifted but broken, and one-sixth of broken crocks or charcoal and as much sand as will insure free percolation should be mixed with it.The stove ferns require a day temperature of 65° to 75°, but do not thrive in an excessively high or close dry atmosphere. They require only such shade as will shut out the direct rays of the sun, and, though abundant moisture must be supplied, the atmosphere should not be overloaded with it. Ferns should not be allowed to become quite dry at the root, and the water used should always be at or near the temperature of the house in which the plants are growing. Some ferns, as the different kinds of Gymnogramme and Cheilanthes, prefer a drier atmosphere than others, and the former do not well bear a lower winter temperature than about 60° by night. Most other stove ferns, if dormant, will bear a temperature as low as 55° by night and 60° by day from November to February. About the end of the latter month the whole collection should be turned out of the pots, and redrained or repotted into larger pots as required. This should take place before growth has commenced. Towards the end of March the night temperature may be raised to 60°, and the day temperature to 70° or 75°, the plants being shaded in bright weather. Such ferns as Gymnogrammes, which have their surface covered with golden or silver powder, and certain species of scaly-surfaced Cheilanthes and Nothochlaena, as they cannot bear to have their fronds wetted, should never be syringed; but most other ferns may have a moderate sprinkling occasionally (not necessarily daily), and as the season advances, sufficient air and light must be admitted to solidify the tissues.Hardy British ferns belonging to such genera as Asplenium, Nephrodium, Aspidium, Scolopendrium, have become fairly popular of late years, and many charming varieties are now used in borders and rockeries. Spores may be sown as above described, but in a much lower temperature.The following is a select list of genera:—AcrostichumDavalliaOsmundaActiniopterisDicksoniaOnocleaAdiantumGleicheniaPhlebodiumAlsophilaGymnogrammePlatyceriumAspidiumHymenophyllumPolypodiumAspleniumLastreaPterisBlechnumLomariaScolopendriumCheilanthesLygodiumTodeaCibotiumNephrodiumTrichomanesCyatheaNephrolepisWoodwardia
Rodgersia.—Handsome herbs of the saxifrage family.R. podophyllawith large bronzy-green leaves cut into 5 large lobes, and tall branching spikes 3 to 4 ft. high—the whole plant resembling one of the large meadow sweets.R. aesculifolia, yellowish-white;R. Henrici, deep purple;R. pinnata, fleshy pink; andR. sambucifolia, white, are recently introduced species from China. They require rich sandy peat and warm sheltered spots.
Romneya.—R. Coulteri, a fine Californian plant, with large white flowers on shoots often as high as 7 ft.;R. trichocalyxis similar. Both require very warm, sunny spots and rich, sandy soil, and should not be disturbed often.
Rudbeckia.—Bold-habited composite plants, well suited for shrubbery borders, and thriving in light loamy soil. The flower-heads have a dark-coloured elevated disk.R. Drummondii, 2 to 3 ft., with the ray-florets reflexed, yellow at the tip and purplish-brown towards the base;R. fulgida, 2 ft. golden-yellow with dark chocolate disk, the flower-heads 2 to 3 in. across; andR. speciosa, 2 to 3 ft., orange-yellow with blackish-purple disk, the flower-heads 3 to 4 in. across, are showy plants.
Sagittaria.—Graceful water or marsh plants with hastate leaves, and tuberous, running and fibrous roots.S. japonica plena;S. lancifolia,S. macrophyllaandS. sagittifolia, are among the best kinds, all with white flowers.
Salvia.—The Sage, a large genus of labiates, often very handsome, but sometimes too tender for English winters.S. Sclarea, 5 to 6 ft., is a very striking plant little more than a biennial, with branched panicles of bluish flowers issuing from rosy-coloured bracts;S. patens, 2 ft., which is intense azure, has tuberous roots, and may be taken up, stored away and replanted in spring like a dahlia.S. pratensis, 2 ft., blue, a showy native species, is quite hardy; the variety lupinoides has the centre of the lower lip white.
Saxifraga.—A very large genus of rock and border plants of easy culture. The Megasea group, to whichS. ligulata,S. cordifoliaandS. crassifoliabelong, are early-flowering kinds of great beauty, with fleshy leaves and large cymose clusters of flowers of various shades of rose, red and purple. Another very distinct group with silvery foliage—the crustaceous group—contains some of our choicest Alpines. Of theseS. caesia,S. calyciflora,S. Cotyledonare among the best known. Some of the species look more like lichens than flowering plants. The green moss-like saxifrages are also a very distinct group, with dense tufted leaves which appear greener in winter than in summer. The flowers are borne on erect branching stems and are chiefly white in colour.Saxifraga umbrosa(London Pride) andS. Geumbelong to still another group, and are valuable alike on border and rockery.S. peltatais unique owing to its large peltate leaves, often 1 ft. to 18 in. across, with stalks 1 to 2 ft. long. Flowers in April, white or pinkish. Likes plenty of water and a moist peaty soil or marshy place.S. sarmentosa, the well-known “mother of thousands,” is often grown as a pot plant in cottagers’ windows.
Scilla.—Beautiful dwarf bulbous plants, thriving in well-worked sandy loam, or sandy peat.S. bifolia, 3 in., andS. sibirica, 4 in., both intense blue, are among the most charming of early spring flowers;S. patula, 6 to 8 in., andS. campanulata, 1 ft., with tubular greyish-blue flowers, freely produced, are fine border plants, as is the later-bloomingS. peruviana, 6 to 8 in., dark blue or white.
Sedum.—Pretty succulent plants of easy growth, and mostly suitable for rockwork. They are numerous, varied in the colour of both leaves and foliage, and mostly of compact tufted growth.S. spectabile, 1 to 1½ ft., pink, in great cymose heads, is a fine plant for the borders, and worthy also of pot-culture for greenhouse decoration. Mention may also be made of the commonS. acre(Stonecrop), 3 in., yellow, and its variety with yellow-tipped leaves.
Sempervivum.—House-Leek. Neat-growing, succulent plants, forming rosettes of fleshy leaves close to the ground, and rapidly increasing by runner-like offsets; they are well adapted for rockwork, and do best in sandy soil. The flowers are stellate, cymose, on stems rising from the heart of the leafy rosettes.S. arachnoideum, purplish,S. arenarium, yellow,S. globiferumandS. Laggeri, rose, grow when in flower 3 to 6 in. high;S. calcareum, rose colour, andS. Boutignianum, pale rose, both have glaucous leaves tipped with purple;S. Heuffelii, yellow, with deep chocolate leaves, andS. Wulfeni, sulphur-yellow, are from 8 to 12 in. high.
Senecio.—A large genus with comparatively few good garden plants. Large and coarse-growing kinds likeS. Doria,S. macrophyllusandS. sarracenicusare good for rough places; all yellow-flowered.S. pulcheris a charming plant, 2 to 3 ft. high, with rosy-purple flower-heads, having a bright orange centre. It likes a warm corner and moist soil.S. clivorum, from China, has large roundish leaves and orange-yellow flowers. It flourishes near water and in damp places.
Shortia.—S. galacifolia, a beautiful tufted plant 2 to 3 in. high, with roundish crenate leaves, on long stalks, and white funnel-shaped flowers in March and April.S. uniflorafrom Japan is closely related. The leaves of both assume rich purple-red tints in autumn. Warm sunny situations and rich sandy loam and peat are required.
Silene.—Pretty caryophyllaceous plants, preferring sandy loam, and well adapted for rockwork.S. alpestris, 6 in., white, andS. quadridentata, 4 in., white, are beautiful tufted plants for rockwork or the front parts of borders;S. maritima flore-pleno, 6 in., white,S. Elizabethae, 4 in., bright rose, andS. Schafta, 6 in., purplish-rose, are also good kinds.
Sisyrinchium.—Pretty dwarf iridaceous plants, thriving in peaty soil.S. grandiflorum, 10 in., deep purple or white, blooms about April, and is a fine plant for pot-culture in cold frames.
Sparaxis.—Graceful bulbous plants from South Africa.S. grandiflora, with deep violet-purple, andS. tricolor, with rich orange-red, flowers are best known.S. pulcherrima, a lovely species, 3 to 6 ft. high, with drooping blood-red blossoms, is now referred to the genusDierama. A warm, light, but rich soil in sheltered spots required.
Spiraea.—Vigorous growing plants of great beauty, preferring good, deep, rather moist soil; the flowers small but very abundant, in large corymbose or spicate panicles.S. Aruncus, 4 ft., white;S. astilbioides, 2 ft., white;S. Filipendula, 1½ ft., andS. Ulmaria, 3 ft., both white;S. palmata, 2 ft., rosy-crimson; andS. venusta, 3 ft., carmine rose, are some of the best.
Statice.—Pretty plants with broad, radical leaves, and a much-branched inflorescence of numerous small flowers.S. latifolia, 2 ft., greyish-blue;S. tatarica, 1 ft., lavender-pink;S. speciosa, 1½ ft., rose colour; andS. eximia, 1½ ft., rosy-lilac—are good border plants.S. bellidifolia, 9 in., lavender;S. emarginata, 6 in., purple;S. globulariaefolia, 9 in., white; andS. nana, 4 in.—are good sorts for the rockery.
Stenactis.—S. speciosa, 1 to 2 ft., is a showy composite, of easy culture in good garden soil; it produces large corymbs of flower-heads, with numerous narrow blue ray-florets surrounding the yellow disk. Now more generally known as Erigeron.
Stipa.—S. pennata(Feather Grass), 1½ ft., is a very graceful-habited grass, with stiff slender erect leaves, and long feathery awns to the seeds.
Stokesia.—S. cyanea, 2 ft., is a grand, autumn-flowering, composite plant, with blue flower-heads, 4 in. across. Sandy loam and warm situation.
Symphytum.—Rather coarse-growing but showy boraginaceous plants, succeeding in ordinary soil.S. caucasicum, 2 ft., with blue flowers changing to red, is one of the finer kinds for early summer blooming.
Thalictrum.—Free-growing but rather weedy ranunculaceous plants, in many cases having elegantly cut foliage.T. aquilegifolium, 2 ft., purplish from the conspicuous stamens, the leaves glaucous, is a good border plant; andT. minushas foliage somewhat resembling that of the Maidenhair fern. Ordinary garden soil.
Tiarella.—T. cordifolia, the foam flower, is very ornamental in border or rockery. Leaves heart-shaped lobed and toothed; flowers white starry; ordinary garden soil.
Tigridia.—Lovely bulbous plants called tiger flowers, useful in the warmest parts of the kingdom for the border in rich but gritty soil.T. Pavonia, the peacock tiger flower, from Mexico, grows 1 to 2 ft. high, with plaited sword-like leaves, and large flowers about 6 in. across, having zones of violet and yellow blotched with purple and tipped with scarlet. There are many varieties, all charming.
Trillium.—T. grandiflorum, the wood-lily of North America, is the finest. It has large white flowers and grows freely in peaty soil in shady borders. There are several other species, some with purplish flowers.
Tritonia.—A genus of South African plants with fibrous-coated corms or solid bulbs, often known as montbretas.T. crocata, 2 ft., orange-yellow,T. crocosmiaeflora, 2 to 2½ ft., orange-scarlet, andT. Pottsi, 3 to 4 ft., bright yellow, are the best-known varieties, of which there are many subsidiary ones, some being very large and free in flowering. A rich, gritty soil, and warm, sunny situations are best for these plants.
Triteleia.—Charming spring-flowering bulbs, thriving in any good sandy soil.T. Murrayana, 8 in., lavender-blue, andT. uniflora,6 in., white, are both pretty plants of the easiest culture, either for borders or rockeries.
Tritoma.—Splendid stoutish-growing plants of noble aspect, familiarly known as the Poker plant, from their erect, rigid spikes of flame-coloured flowers; sometimes called Kniphofia.T. Uvaria, 3 to 4 ft., bright orange-red, passing to yellow in the lower flowers, is a fine autumnal decorative plant. They should be protected from frosts by a covering of ashes over the crown during winter.
Trollius.—Showy ranunculaceous plants, of free growth, flowering about May and June.T. europaeus, 18 in., lemon globular;T. asiaticus, 2 ft., deep yellow; andT. napellifolius, 2 to 2½ ft., golden yellow, are all fine showy kinds. Rich and rather moist soil.
Tulipa.—Splendid dwarfish bulbs, thriving in deep, sandy, well-enriched garden soil, and increased by offsets. They bloom during the spring and early summer months.T. Gesneriana, the parent of the florists’ tulip, 12 to 18 in., crimson and other colours;T. Eichleri, 1 ft., crimson with dark spot;T. Greigi, 1 ft., orange with dark spot edged with yellow, and having dark spotted leaves;T. oculus solis, 1 ft., scarlet with black centre; andT. sylvestris, 12 to 18 in., bright yellow, are showy kinds.
Veratrum.—Distinct liliaceous plants with bold ornamental leaves regularly folded and plaited.V. album, 3 to 5 ft., has whitish blossoms in dense panicles, 1 to 2 ft. long.V. nigrum, 2 to 3 ft., has blackish-purple flowers, alsoV. Maacki, 2 ft. Rich sandy loam and peat.
Verbascum.—Showy border flowers of erect spire-like habit, of the easiest culture.V. Chaixii, 4 to 5 ft., yellow, in large pyramidal panicles;V. phoeniceum, 3 ft., rich purple or white; andV. formosum, 6 ft., golden yellow in dense panicles, are desirable species.
Veronica.—The Speedwell family, containing many ornamental members; all the hardy species are of the easiest cultivation in ordinary garden soil. The rotate flowers are in close, erect spikes, sometimes branched.V. crassifolia, 2 ft., dark blue;V. incarnata, 1½ ft., flesh-colour;V. corymbosa, 1½ ft., pale blue in corymbosely-arranged racemes;V. gentianoides, 2 ft., grey with blue streaks;V. spicata, blue, and its charming white varietyalba; andV. virginica, 5 ft., white, are distinct.
Vinca.—Periwinkle. Pretty rock plants, growing freely in ordinary soil.V. herbacea, of creeping habit, with purplish-blue flowers;V. minor, of trailing habit, blue; andV. major, 1 to 2 ft. high, also trailing, are suitable for the rock garden. The last two are evergreen, and afford varieties which differ in the colour of their flowers, while some are single and others double.
Viola.—Violet. Charming dwarf plants, mostly evergreen and of tufted habit, requiring well-worked rich sandy soil.V. calcarata, 6 in., light blue;V. cornuta, 6 to 8 in., blue;V. lutea, 4 in., yellow;V. altaica, 6 in., yellow or violet with yellow eye;V. palmaensis, 6 to 8 in., lavender-blue;V. pedata, 6 in., pale blue; andV. odorata, the Sweet Violet, in its many single and double flowered varieties, are all desirable.
Yucca.—Noble subarborescent liliaceous plants, which should be grown in every garden. They do well in light, well-drained soils, and have a close family resemblance, the inflorescence being a panicle of white, drooping, tulip-shaped flowers, and the foliage rosulate, sword-shaped and spear-pointed. Of the more shrubby-habited sortsY. gloriosa,recurvifoliaandTreculeanaare good and distinct; and of the dwarfer and more herbaceous sortsY. filamentosa,flaccidaandangustifoliaare distinct and interesting kinds, the first two flowering annually.
The taste for cultivation of the class of plants, of which the foregoing list embraces some of the more prominent members, is on the increase, and gardens will benefit by its extension.
Hardy Trees and Shrubs.—Much of the beauty of the pleasure garden depends upon the proper selection and disposition of ornamental trees and shrubs. We can only afford space here for lists of some of the better and more useful and ornamental trees and shrubs, old and new.
The following list, which is not exhaustive, furnishes material from which a selection may be made to suit various soils and situations. The shrubs marked * are climbers.
Hardy Deciduous Trees.
Hardy Evergreen Trees.
Hardy Deciduous Shrubs.
Hardy Evergreen Shrubs.
Bedding Plants.—This term is chiefly applied to those summer-flowering plants, such as ivy-leaved and zonal pelargoniums, petunias, dwarf lobelias, verbenas, &c., which are employed in masses for filling the beds of a geometrical parterre. Of late years, however, more attention has been bestowed on arrangements of brilliant flowering plants with those of fine foliage, and the massing also of hardy early-blooming plants in parterre fashion has been very greatly extended. Bedding plants thrive best in a light loam, liberally manured with thoroughly rotten dung from an old hotbed or thoroughly decomposed cow droppings and leaf-mould.
Spring Bedding.—For this description of bedding, hardy plants only must be used; but even then the choice is tolerably extensive. For example, there are the Alyssums, of whichA. saxatileandA. gemonenseare in cultivation;Antennaria tomentosa; the double whiteArabis albida; Aubrietias, of which the best sorts areA. CampbelliaeandA. grandiflora; the doubleBellis perennisor Daisy; the Wallflowers, includingCheiranthus Cheiri(the Common Wallflower),C. alpinaandC. Marshallii; Hepaticas, the principal of which are the varieties ofH. triloba, and the blueH. angulosa; Iberis or Candytuft;Lithospermum fruticosum; Myosotis or Forget-me-not, includingM. alpestris,M. dissitiflora,M. azoricaandM. sylvestris; Phloxes, likeP. subulata, with its varietiessetacea,Nelsoni,nivalis; the single-flowered varieties of the Primrose,Primula vulgaris; the Polyanthuses;Pyrethrum Parthenium aureum, called Golden Feather;Sempervivum calcareum; the pink-floweredSilene pendula; self-coloured varieties of the Pansy,V. tricolor, and ofV. luteaandV. cornuta, as well as some recent hybrids. Besides these there are the various spring-flowering bulbs, such as the varieties of Hyacinthus, Tulipa, Narcissus, Fritillaria, Muscari or Grape Hyacinth, Crocus, Scilla, Chionodoxa and Galanthus or Snowdrop.
Summer Bedding.—There is great variety amongst the plants which are used for bedding-out in the garden during the summer months, but we can note only some of the most important of them. Amongst them are the Ageratums, the old tall-growing sorts of which have been superseded by dwarfer blue and white flowered varieties; Alternantheras, the principal of which areA. amoena,amoena spectabilis,magnifica,paronychioides major aureaandamabilis;Alyssum maritimum variegatum; some of the dwarf varieties ofAntirrhinum majus;Arundo Donax variegata; Begonias; Calceolarias; Cannas;Centaurea ragusina; Clematises, of which the hybrids of theJackmannitype are best;Dahlia variabilis, and the single-flowered forms ofD. coccinea; Echeverias, of whichE. secundaandE. metallicaare much employed; Gazanias; Heliotropes; Iresines; Lantanas; Lobelias;Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum; Pelargoniums, of which the various classes of zonal or bedding varieties are unapproachable for effect and general utility; Petunias; Phloxes;Polemonium coeruleum variegatum;Pyrethrum Parthenium aureum, the well-known Golden Feather, especially useful as an edging to define the outline of beds upon grass; Tropaeolums, especially some of the varieties ofT. Lobbianum; and Verbenas, the offspring ofTweedieana,chamaedrifoliaand others. Few bulbs come into the summer flower gardens, but amongst those which should always be well represented are the Gladiolus, the Lilium, the Tigridia and the Montbretia.
Subtropical Bedding.—Foliage and the less common flowering plants may be used either in masses of one kind, or in groups arranged for contrast, or as the centres of groups of less imposing or of dwarfer-flowering subjects; or they may be planted as single specimens in appropriate open spaces, in recesses, or as distant striking objects terminating a vista.
Carpet Beddingconsists in covering the surface of a bed, or a series of beds forming a design, with close, low-growing plants, in which certain figures are brought out by means of plants of a different habit or having different coloured leaves. Sometimes, in addition to the carpet or ground colour, individual plants of larger size and handsome appearance are dotted symmetrically over the beds, an arrangement which is very telling. Some of the best plants for carpeting the surface of the beds are:Antennaria tomentosaandLeucophytum Browni, white;Sedum acre,dasyphyllum,corsicumandglaucum, grey; andSedum Lydium,Mentha Pulegium gibraltarica,Sagina subulataandHerniaria glabra, green. The Alternantheras, Amaranthuses, Iresines andColeus Verschaffeltifurnish high and warm colours; whilePyrethrum Parthenium aureumyields greenish-yellow:Thymus citriodorus aureus, yellowish;Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum, creamy yellow; Centaureas and others, white;Lobelia Erinus, blue; and the succulent Echeverias and Sempervivums, glaucous rosettes, which last add much to the general effect. In connexion with the various designs such fine plants asAgave americana,Dracaena indivisaare often used as centre-pieces.
Greenhouse Plants.—These are plants requiring the shelter of a glass house, provided with a moderate degree of heat, of which 45° Fahr. may be taken as the minimum in winter. The house should be opened for ventilation in all mild weather in winter, and daily throughout the rest of the year. The following is a select list of genera of miscellaneous decorative plants (orchids, palms and ferns excluded; climbers are denoted by *; bulbous and tuberous plants by †):
Stove Plants.—For the successful culture of stove plants two houses at least, wherein different temperatures can be maintained, should be devoted to their growth. The minimum temperature during winter should range at night from about 55° in the cooler to 65° in the warmer house, and from 65° to 75° by day, allowing a few degrees further rise by sun heat. In summer the temperature may range 10° higher by artificial heat, night and day, and will often by sun heat run up to 90° or even 95°, beyond which it should be kept down by ventilation and frequent syringing and damping down of the pathways. During the growing period the atmosphere must be kept moist by damping the walls and pathways, and by syringing the plants according to their needs; when growth is completed less moisture will be necessary. Watering, which, except during the resting period, should generally be copious, is best done in the forenoon; while syringing should be done early in the morning before the sun becomes too powerful, and late in the afternoon to admit of the foliage drying moderately before night. The following is a select list of genera of stove plants (climbers are denoted by *, bulbous and tuberous plants by †):
Orchids.—For the successful cultivation of a mixed collection of tropical orchids, it is necessary that two or three houses, in which different temperatures can be maintained, should be provided. The greater number of them are epiphytes or plants that grow on others without absorbing nourishment from them, and heat and moisture afford all or nearly all the nourishment they require. At one time it was thought the plants themselves were better for being associated with such objects as ferns and palms, but they are best grown by themselves.
The East Indian orchid house takes in those species which are found in the warm parts of the eastern hemisphere, as well as those from the hottest parts of the western, and its temperature should range from about 70° to 80° during the summer or growing season and from 65° to 70° during winter. The Mexican or Brazilian orchid house accommodates the plants from the warm parts of South America, and its temperature should range from about 65° to 75° during summer and from 60° to 65° in winter. A structure called the cool orchid house is set apart for the accommodation of the many lovely mountain species from South America and India, such asodontoglossums,masdevallias, &c., and in this the more uniform the temperature can be kept the better, that in summer varying between60° and 65°, and in winter from 45° to 60°. A genial moist atmosphere must be kept up in the hottest houses during the growing season, with a free circulation of air admitted very cautiously by well-guarded ventilators. In winter, when the plants are at rest, little water will be necessary; but in the case of those plants which have no fleshy pseudobulbs to fall back upon for sustenance, they must not be suffered to become so dry as to cause the leaves to shrivel. In the Mexican house the plants will generally be able to withstand greater drought occasionally, being greatly assisted by their thick pseudobulbs. In the cool or odontoglossum house a considerable degree of moisture must be maintained at all times, for in these the plants keep growing more or less continuously.
For potting or basketing purposes, or for plants requiring block-culture, the materials used are light fibrous peat, special leaf-mould, osmunda or polypodium fibre and living sphagnum moss, which supply free drainage for the copious supply of water required. Good turfy loam is also used for some, such ascypripediumsandcalanthes. Indeed the composts now used are varied considerably according to the particular group of orchids. The water should, however, be so used as not to run down into the sheathing bases of the leaves. While in flower, orchids may with advantage be removed to a drier and cooler situation, and may be utilized in the drawing-room or boudoir. Of late years not only have many fine hybrids been raised artificially between various species, but some remarkable bigeneric hybrids (between what are considered two distinct genera) have also been produced (indicated in the list below by *). To keep a valuable collection of orchids in good condition requires the services of an expert orchid grower.
The following is a select list of genera in cultivation:—
Palms.—These form charming table and drawing-room plants when quite young. When more fully developed, and long before their full growth is attained, they are among the most decorative plants known for the conservatory and for subtropical gardening. They are easily cultivated, but should not be allowed to become dry. The soil should consist of about 3 parts turfy loam, 1 part leaf mould, 1 part coarse silver sand, with enough chemical or other manure added to render the whole moderately rich. The older plants will occasionally require the roots pruned in order to keep them in as small pots as possible without being starved. This should be done early in the spring, and the plants heavily shaded until feeding roots are again produced. It is of advantage to afford stove culture while the plants are quite young. A little later most of the genera succeed well under moderately cool conditions.
The following genera are among those most commonly cultivated:
Ferns.—These popular plants are usually increased by means of their spores, the “dust” produced on the back of their fronds. The spores should be sown in well-drained pots or seed pans on the surface of a mixture of fibrous sifted peat and small broken crocks or sandstone; this soil should be firmly pressed and well-watered, and the spores scattered over it, and at once covered with propagating glasses or pieces of sheet glass, to prevent water or dry air getting to the surface. The pots should be placed in pans full of water, which they will absorb as required. A shady place is desirable, with temperature of 50° to 55° by night and 65° to 70° by day, or they may be set on a shelf in an ordinary propagating pit. The spores may be sown as soon as ripe, and when the young plants can be handled, or rather can be lifted with the end of a pointed flat stick, they should be pricked out into well-drained pots or pans filled with similar soil and should be kept moist and shady. As they become large enough, pot them singly in 3-in. pots, and when the pots are fairly filled with roots shift on into larger ones.
The best time for a general repotting of ferns is in spring, just before growth commences. Those with creeping rhizomes can be propagated by dividing these into well-rooted portions, and, if a number of crowns is formed, they can be divided at that season. In most cases this can be performed with little risk, but the gleichenias, for example, must only be cut into large portions, as small divisions of the rhizomes are almost certain to die; in such cases, however, the points of the rhizomes can be led over and layered into small pots, several in succession, and allowed to remain unsevered from the parent plant until they become well-rooted. In potting the well-established plants, and all those of considerable size, the soil should be used in a rough turfy state, not sifted but broken, and one-sixth of broken crocks or charcoal and as much sand as will insure free percolation should be mixed with it.
The stove ferns require a day temperature of 65° to 75°, but do not thrive in an excessively high or close dry atmosphere. They require only such shade as will shut out the direct rays of the sun, and, though abundant moisture must be supplied, the atmosphere should not be overloaded with it. Ferns should not be allowed to become quite dry at the root, and the water used should always be at or near the temperature of the house in which the plants are growing. Some ferns, as the different kinds of Gymnogramme and Cheilanthes, prefer a drier atmosphere than others, and the former do not well bear a lower winter temperature than about 60° by night. Most other stove ferns, if dormant, will bear a temperature as low as 55° by night and 60° by day from November to February. About the end of the latter month the whole collection should be turned out of the pots, and redrained or repotted into larger pots as required. This should take place before growth has commenced. Towards the end of March the night temperature may be raised to 60°, and the day temperature to 70° or 75°, the plants being shaded in bright weather. Such ferns as Gymnogrammes, which have their surface covered with golden or silver powder, and certain species of scaly-surfaced Cheilanthes and Nothochlaena, as they cannot bear to have their fronds wetted, should never be syringed; but most other ferns may have a moderate sprinkling occasionally (not necessarily daily), and as the season advances, sufficient air and light must be admitted to solidify the tissues.
Hardy British ferns belonging to such genera as Asplenium, Nephrodium, Aspidium, Scolopendrium, have become fairly popular of late years, and many charming varieties are now used in borders and rockeries. Spores may be sown as above described, but in a much lower temperature.
The following is a select list of genera:—