Chapter 33

272.In an inventory of household furniture, dated 1559, we have amongst other articles, ‘One trussin bed with a teaster of yealow and chamlet, one old arke, old hangyers of wull grene and red, 6s.8d.’ (Richmondshire Wills, p. 135.) Another writer, twenty years earlier, relating the contents of the ‘mylke howse,’ includes ‘an arke, a tube (tub), a stande, a chyrne.’ (P. 42, do.) The earliest instance of the surname I have yet met with is found in the same book, where, in a will dated 1556, the testator bequeaths a sheep to ‘Henry Arkwright.’ (Do. p. 155, note.) Both the ark itself and the trade are of North English origin.

273.‘Shuxsmith’ seems but a corruption of this. The intermediate form is found inWills and Inventories(Ch. Soc.), in the names of ‘Margerie Shughsmythe’ and ‘Henry Shughsmythe.’

274.‘Buckler’ may be mentioned here. ‘John le Bockeler’ (A.), ‘Richard Bokeler’ (Z).

275.With our ‘Locksmiths’ we must, of course, ally our ‘Lockmans,’ ‘Lockyers,’ and ‘Lockers,’ and perchance ‘Lookers.’ We find a ‘Henry le Lokier’ set down in the Hundred Rolls, and in an old Oxford record, dated 1443, there occurs the name of ‘Robert Harward, loker,’ who doubtless found plenty of employment in providing for the security of the various rooms attached to the different colleges and halls. (Mun. Acad. Oxon., p. 535.)

276.There are several single representatives of occupations connected with the smith which I have not mentioned in the text, not having met with any trace of their continued existence amongst us. Thus, in theLondon Memorialswe find a ‘John Chietesmyth,’ which, so far, I have found to be wholly unintelligible. I must say the same in regard to ‘Cokesmyth,’ occurring in theBoldon Book. ‘John Rodesmith,’ if not a scribe’s error for ‘Redesmith,’ would be the manufacturer of the then familiar ‘rood’ or ‘rode,’ the cross which we occasionally may see still standing beside our old turnpikes. ‘William Watersmith,’ it is quite reasonable, may have spent his energies on water-wheels and such other machinery as helped to turn the mill. All these are now, and probably were then, almost immediately obsolete. On the other hand, we have ‘Wildsmith’ existing in our midst, only one representative of which am I able to discover in our olden records. It is just possible that, like the obsolete ‘Youngsmith,’ it originally referred to the characteristics of the man as well as of his trade.

277.The roads between Cumberland and Northumberland were of the roughest and most dangerous character till the seventeenth century, when General Wade, in the course of his progress against the rebels, laid down some of a better kind. The following couplet has been handed down as the effort of some local poet:—‘If you’d ever been hereWhen these roads were not made,You would lift up your handsAnd bless General Wade.’

‘If you’d ever been hereWhen these roads were not made,You would lift up your handsAnd bless General Wade.’

‘If you’d ever been here

When these roads were not made,

You would lift up your hands

And bless General Wade.’

278.In the Rolls of Parliament special mention is made of the King’s Corser, he who acted as the king’s agent in regard to the purchase of horses. A certain ‘Johannes Martyr, corsere,’ occurs in an old Oxford record, dated 1451. (Mun. Acad. Oxon., p. 616.)

279.Thus, in theItinerarium of Richard I., it is said that, after a conflict with the Greeks, ‘Rex igitur cum persecutus esset imperatorem fugientem lucratus est runcinum vel jumentum sacculo retro sellam collocato,’ &c.—P. 191. We may quote, also, theWardrobe of Edward I.: ‘Magistro Willelmo de Apperle, pro restauro unius runcini favi appreciati pro Roberto de Burton, valletto suo, &c., 8l.’—P. 172.

280.TheTest. Ebor.(W. 2) gives us a ‘John Charioteer,’ and theCal. Proc. Chancery(Z.Z.) a ‘Thomas Charietter.’

281.This is confirmed by the existence of ‘Chartman,’ more modernly ‘Cartman.’ A ‘John Chartman’ was rector of Sedistern, Norfolk, in 1361. (Blomefield.)

282.The following entry is found in theIssue Rolls: ‘To Master William la Zousche, clerk of the king’s great wardrobe in money, paid to him by the hands of John le Charer, for making a certain chariot for the use and behoof of Lady Eleanor, the king’s sister, by writ of liberate containing 1000l.’ (Issues of the Exchequer, 6 Ed. III.) Capgrave, too, may be cited. Writing of Helianore, daughter to the King of France, when given to Richard of England, he says, under date 1394: ‘She was ful scarsly viii yere of age, but she brought oute of Frauns xii chares ful of ladies and domicelles.’ Mr. Way says that in 1294 the use of this vehicle by the wives of wealthy citizens in Paris had become so prevalent that it was forbidden them by an ordinance of Philippe le Bel.

283.‘Couchman’ and ‘Coachman’ must be set here. ‘Aug. 4, 1640. Dorothy Coachman, daughter of Tilney Coachman, buried’ (Smith’s Obituary, p. 17). This Tilney is recorded elsewhere as ‘Tilney Couchman.’ Mr. Wedgewood says, ‘Coach. The Fr.coucherbecame in Dutchkoetsen—to lie; whence “koetse,” a couch—a litter, a carriage in which you may recline, acoach’ (p. 159). The twofold spelling of this Tilney’s name is thus explained. Hence, too, ‘Couchmen’ represents but the older form of ‘Coachman’—Richard Couchman, Z., ‘William Cowcheman,’ EE., John Coacheman, Z.

284.In theYork Pageantthe ‘Sellers’ and the ‘Satellers’ went together. The latter, doubtless, made satchels, and would differ little from the ‘bourser’ or ‘pouchemaker’ of that period. In thePrompt. Parv.we find ‘Sele, horsys harneys.’ A ‘John de Essex, Selmakere,’ occurs in theLondon Records, 1310, and a ‘Robert Newcomen, Sealmaker,’ 1311. (Riley’sLondon, pp. xxii., xxx.) The latter, doubtless, was a maker of seals, like some of the ‘le Selers’ of this period. I have mentioned them elsewhere.

285.While, as I have just said, in theYork Pageantit is the ‘Satellers’ and ‘Sellers’ who go together, in theChester Playit is the ‘Saddlers’ and ‘Fusterers.’

286.In Holland’s version of Pliny it is said that the Empress Poppæa ‘was knowne to cause her ferrers ordinarily to shoe her coach horses and other palfries, &c., with cleane gold.’ (Way’sPrompt. Par.)

287.A suggestion I received at a dinner-table the other day that ‘ostler’ was merely a corruption of ‘oat-stealer’ I may as well mention here. It is certainly suggestive, if not overburdened with accuracy.

288.‘William le Vendour’ is registered in theCal. Rot. Chartarum.

289.Mr. Riley, in his interestingMemorials of London, quotes from theRolls of Gaol Delivery, temp. Edward I., the name of ‘Richard Witbred, hodere,’ who had been slain in one of the city streets. (Introduction, p. xi.)

290.An act of Edward VI. speaks of ‘the buying of anye corne, fyshe, butter, or cheese by any suche Badger, Lader, Kyddier, or Carrier as shal be assigned and allowed to that office.’ (5 & 6 Ed. VI. c. 14.) A confirmation of this act by Elizabeth alters ‘Kyddier’ to ‘Kydder.’ Theladerwas the old carrier or leader. I have deferred speaking of him till my next chapter.

291.The greed of these strolling ecclesiastics is frequently alluded to in the writings of this period. An old song on the Minorite friars says—‘They preche alle of povert, but that love they naught,For gode mete to their mouthe the toun is through sought.’(Pol. Poems, vol. i. p. 270.)

291.The greed of these strolling ecclesiastics is frequently alluded to in the writings of this period. An old song on the Minorite friars says—

‘They preche alle of povert, but that love they naught,For gode mete to their mouthe the toun is through sought.’(Pol. Poems, vol. i. p. 270.)

‘They preche alle of povert, but that love they naught,

For gode mete to their mouthe the toun is through sought.’

(Pol. Poems, vol. i. p. 270.)

292.An act was passed in Edward VI.’s reign to suppress in some degree the number of this wandering fraternity:—‘Forasmuch as it is evident that Tynkers, Pedlers, and such like vagrant persones are more hurtfull than necessarie to the Commen Wealth of this realme, be it therefore ordeyned ... that ... no person or persones commonly called Pedler, Tynker, or Pety Chapman, shall wander or go from one towne to another, or from place to place, out of the towne, parishe, or village, where such person shall dwell, and sell pynnes, poyntes laces, gloves, knyves, glasses, tapes, or any suche kynde of wares whatsoever, or gather connye skynnes, &c.’ (5 & 6 Ed. VI. c. 21)

293.‘John le Coper’ is found in the Hundred Rolls.

294.‘Lambert Hardewareman’ (W. ii.) is met with in York in 1473. Whether he was a travelling dealer or no, I cannot say.

295.It is to the humorous and familiar associations inseparably connected with the early chapman we owe our ‘chap,’ a mere corruption of the above.

296.Mr. William Markettman was appointed by the Committee of Plundered Ministers in 1650 to the Rectory of Elstree. (Clutterbuck’sHertford, vol. i. 161.) ‘Articles exhibited against Clement Marketman, executor of Clement Stuppeney, &c.’ (State Papers, July 25, 1623.)

297.‘Willmo Mone sometario ad unum somerum pro armis Regis.’ (Wardrobe of Edward I., p. 77.)

298.Thus the somewhat incongruous expression in Psalm cxxvii. 1, ‘the watchman waketh but in vain,’ is explained. That a sentinel should require rousing is opposed to all our ideas of the duties associated with this office. It should be ‘the watchman watcheth but in vain.’

299.It is in allusion to the disturbance thus created in the small hours of the night we find a writer of the Stuart period saying, not unwittily, to one thus rudely aroused:—‘That you are vext theirwakesyour neighbours keepThey guess it is, because you want yoursleep:I therefore wish that you yoursleepwould take,That they (without offence) might keep theirwake.’(Brand’sPop. Ant.iii. 9.)

299.It is in allusion to the disturbance thus created in the small hours of the night we find a writer of the Stuart period saying, not unwittily, to one thus rudely aroused:—

‘That you are vext theirwakesyour neighbours keepThey guess it is, because you want yoursleep:I therefore wish that you yoursleepwould take,That they (without offence) might keep theirwake.’(Brand’sPop. Ant.iii. 9.)

‘That you are vext theirwakesyour neighbours keep

They guess it is, because you want yoursleep:

I therefore wish that you yoursleepwould take,

That they (without offence) might keep theirwake.’

(Brand’sPop. Ant.iii. 9.)

300.Isaac Wake was university orator in 1607. He preached Rainold’s funeral sermon. Dr. Sleep was the leading preacher in Cambridge at the same time. James I., who dearly loved a pun, said ‘he always feltinclinedto Wake when he heard Sleep, and to Sleep when he heard Wake,’i.e., he could not decide on the relative merits of the two. (Brooks’Puritans, vol. ii. p. 180.)

301.Thus, in theWinter’s Tale, the servant says: ‘I have done. Come, you promised me a tawdry-lace and a pair of gloves.’

302.A law was passed at Winchester in 1285 that no fair or market should be held in the churchyard, as had previously been the case.

303.The same record, however, contains a ‘Fairman Alberd,’ so that, like ‘Coleman’ and ‘Bateman,’ it may have been but a personal name.

304.It is from this same root that our ‘Kemp’ is derived, meaning a soldier.

305.In the Complaint of the Plowman, too, we are told that the priests were always—‘At the wrestling and the wake,And chief chantours at the nale.’

305.In the Complaint of the Plowman, too, we are told that the priests were always—

‘At the wrestling and the wake,And chief chantours at the nale.’

‘At the wrestling and the wake,

And chief chantours at the nale.’

306.In theHousehold Book of the Earl of Northumberland, in 1511, under the head of ‘Rewards,’ is one of ‘6s.8d.to the Kyngs and Queenes Barward, if they have one, when they come to the Earl’ (Way). In the Parliamentary Rolls mention is made concerning the ‘Beremaistre of the Forest of Peake.’ It was not till 1835 that bear or bull baiting was finally forbidden by Act of Parliament.

307.An old tavern-sign in Cheshire bore the following inscription:—‘Good bear sold here,Our own Bruin.’The book which records this quotes from theCongleton Town Register: ‘1599.—Paid the bearward, 4s.4d.’ ‘1601.—Gave the bearward at the great cock-fight, 6s.8d.’ (Cheshire Ballads, p. 259.)

307.An old tavern-sign in Cheshire bore the following inscription:—

‘Good bear sold here,Our own Bruin.’

‘Good bear sold here,

Our own Bruin.’

The book which records this quotes from theCongleton Town Register: ‘1599.—Paid the bearward, 4s.4d.’ ‘1601.—Gave the bearward at the great cock-fight, 6s.8d.’ (Cheshire Ballads, p. 259.)

308.A story is told of an officious clerk belonging to an old rural church who, overwhelmed with the honour of having a bishop presiding at a visitation there, ransacked his brains for something worthy the occasion, and then in stentorian voice gave out, instead of the usual Sternholdic lines, the following variation:—‘Ye little hills and dales,Why do ye skip and hop?Is it because yer glad to seeHis Grace the Lord Bish-op?’

‘Ye little hills and dales,Why do ye skip and hop?Is it because yer glad to seeHis Grace the Lord Bish-op?’

‘Ye little hills and dales,

Why do ye skip and hop?

Is it because yer glad to see

His Grace the Lord Bish-op?’

309.Curiously enough, we have the name of ‘Robert Harpmaker’ mentioned in an old Oxford record, 1452. (Mun. Acad. Oxon.) This we may look upon, therefore, as an old-standing nuisance.

310.Burton, in hisAnatomy of Melancholy, says: ‘Let them freely feast, sing, and dance, have their poppet-playes, hobby-horses, tabers, crouds, bag-pipes,’ &c. (P. 276.)

311.The names of ‘William Elyott, luter,’ and ‘William Spenser, harpour,’ occur in 1432 in an old York will. (Test. Eboracensia, vol. ii. p. 21, Surtees Soc.) ‘Haunce (Hans) the luter’ and ‘Philip the luter’ are frequently mentioned inPrivy Expenses(Princess Mary).

312.This name evidently lasted till the seventeenth century, for in 1641 an ‘Adam Orgener’ entered C. C. Coll. Cam. (VideMasters’ history of that college.)

313.The ‘Rhymer’ is often mentioned as belonging to the royal or feudal retinue. Like many of the above, he may be set among our list of early officerships.

314.We may set here our ‘Bidders,’ or ‘Ernald le Bidere,’ as he was once recorded. He was the general beggar of that day, and no doubt a rich harvest would be the result of his attendance at the fair. Piers Plowman says:—‘Bidderes and beggaresFaste about yede,With their belies and their baggesOf bread ful y-crammed.’‘Simon le Shobeggere’ (H.R.), or ‘Shoe-beggar,’ as I presume means, seems to have followed a more particular line of business.

‘Bidderes and beggaresFaste about yede,With their belies and their baggesOf bread ful y-crammed.’

‘Bidderes and beggares

Faste about yede,

With their belies and their bagges

Of bread ful y-crammed.’

‘Simon le Shobeggere’ (H.R.), or ‘Shoe-beggar,’ as I presume means, seems to have followed a more particular line of business.

315.Here is Glyed Wolby of Gylforde squyere,Andrew of Habyngedon, apell byer.(Cocke Lorelle’s Bote.)I am afraid the reader will scarcely recognise ‘Wool-buyer’ in ‘Wolby,’ but I doubt not such was the trader referred to. ‘Geoffrey le Wolle-byer’ occurs in the Parliamentary Writs.

315.

Here is Glyed Wolby of Gylforde squyere,Andrew of Habyngedon, apell byer.(Cocke Lorelle’s Bote.)

Here is Glyed Wolby of Gylforde squyere,Andrew of Habyngedon, apell byer.

Here is Glyed Wolby of Gylforde squyere,

Andrew of Habyngedon, apell byer.

(Cocke Lorelle’s Bote.)

I am afraid the reader will scarcely recognise ‘Wool-buyer’ in ‘Wolby,’ but I doubt not such was the trader referred to. ‘Geoffrey le Wolle-byer’ occurs in the Parliamentary Writs.

316.One of Edward III.’s statutes says: ‘That a certain number of portours, pakkers, gwynders (winders), and other laborers of wools and all other merchandizes, be sufficiently ordained for the place where the staple is.’ (Stat. of Realm, vol. i. p. 341.)

317.It is not impossible that this species of cloth was in use by the lower classes for articles of apparel. Chaucer, in hisRomance, refers to such a habit when he says:—‘She ne had on but a straite old sacke,And many a cloute on it there stacke,This was her cote, and her mantele.’

317.It is not impossible that this species of cloth was in use by the lower classes for articles of apparel. Chaucer, in hisRomance, refers to such a habit when he says:—

‘She ne had on but a straite old sacke,And many a cloute on it there stacke,This was her cote, and her mantele.’

‘She ne had on but a straite old sacke,

And many a cloute on it there stacke,

This was her cote, and her mantele.’

318.A prayer to the Commons, in 1464, respecting the importation of foreign goods and merchandise, mentions ‘the makers of wollen cloth within this Reame, as Wevers, Fullers, Dyers,Kempsters, Carders, and Spynners.’ (Rot. Parl.Ed. IV.)

319.A recipe from an old Harleian MS. thus begins: ‘Recipe brawne of capons or of hennys, and dry them wele, and towse them small.’

320.In the south walk, Westminster Abbey, are gravestones recording the deaths of ‘George Slemaker,’ 1802, and ‘Susannah Slemaker,’ his widow, 1818. (VideNeale’sWestminster Abbey.)

321.Richard Slawright was prior of the Hermit Friars of St. Augustine Warrington, in 1516. (Warrington in 1465.Ch. Soc., p. xliv.)

322.A chantry to the church of All Saints, York, was erected in the fifteenth century by Adam del Bank, Littester.’ (Hist. and Ant. of York, vol. ii. p. 269.) ThePromp. Par.has ‘Lystare, or Lytaster of cloth dyynge—Tinctor.’

323.‘William Fulman,’ a learned antiquary, died in 1688. (VideDyce’sShakespeare, vol. i. p. 35.)

324.A statute of Elizabeth regarding the apprenticeship of poor children includes among others, ‘Wollen-weaver, weaving housewiefes or householde clothe onely and none other, Clothe-Fuller, otherwise called Tucker, or Walker.’ (5 Eliz. c. 4, 23.) ‘Of William Reynolles, walker, for half a pewe with Edward Doughtie, 3s.4d.’ (Churchwardens’ Expenses, Ludlow, p. 154 (1571), Cam. Soc.) In theChester Playthe ‘weavers and walkers’ marched together. (VideAppendix.)

325.This practice of treading the cloth is referred to in a complaint concerning the fulling of caps and hats in fulling mills, made to Edward IV. It begins by saying that hats, caps, and bonnets hitherto had been made, wrought, fulled, and thicked in the wonted manner, that is to say, with hands and feet—‘mayns et pees’—and then proceeds to urge that the use of mills brought inferior articles into the market. (Stat. of Realm, vol. ii. p. 473.)

326.A ‘John Wollebeter’ is mentioned in an old Suffolk will of 1370.

327.We have the word ‘bat’ used in Wicklyffe’s Testament: ‘In that hour Jhesus seide to the people, as to a theef ye han gon out with swerdis and battis to take me.’ (Matt. xxvi. 55.)

328.God made ‘ffor to cover us and clethe us also lyne, and wolle and lethire.’ (Mirror of St. Edmund, Early Eng. Text Soc., p. 21.)

329.The bailiff of Norwich in 1250 was ‘Otto le Texter or Weaver.’ (Hist. Norfolk, iii. 58.) ‘John Tixter’ was Mayor of Gloucester in 1270. (Rudder’sGloucestershire, p. 113.) On the 30th April 1873, theManchester Courierannounced ‘the suspension of Messrs. Textor and Co., silk merchants, London.’

330.In thePrompt. Parv.we find the feminine termination to have been in general use in Norfolk. The author has ‘pleykstare—candidarius,’ and further on, ‘whytstare, or pleykstare—candidarius, candidaria.’ Earlier in the work, too, occurs ‘bleystare, or wytstare (bleykester or whytster)—candidarius.’ That the name lingered there for a considerable period is proved by the fact of a ‘Robert Blaxter’ appearing as defendant in the Court of Chancery in a Norfolk case at the close of the sixteenth century. (Proceedings in Chancery(Elizabeth), vol. i. p. 250.) The earlier spelling is found in such entries as ‘Will le Bleckestere’ (H.R.) or ‘Richard le Blekstare’ (P. W.). Blackister, like Blaxter, still exists.

331.Sylkewomen, pursers, and garnysshers,Tablemakers, sylkedyers, and shepsters.(Cocke Lorelle’s Bote.)

331.

Sylkewomen, pursers, and garnysshers,Tablemakers, sylkedyers, and shepsters.(Cocke Lorelle’s Bote.)

Sylkewomen, pursers, and garnysshers,Tablemakers, sylkedyers, and shepsters.

Sylkewomen, pursers, and garnysshers,

Tablemakers, sylkedyers, and shepsters.

(Cocke Lorelle’s Bote.)

332.InA Complaint of Artificers to Parliament, in 1463, there is included amongst other productions, ‘Laces, corses, ribans, frenges of silke and of threde, threden laces,throwensilke, silke in eny wise embrauded.’ (Rot. Parl., Ed. IV.)

333.‘Edmund Barkmaker’ occurs in ‘Calendar to Pleadings.’ (Elizabeth.)

334.According to Strype, the ‘Company of Megusers’ dealt in the skins of dead horses, and flayed them. He mentions ‘Walter le Whitawyer’ in the same account. (London, vol. ii. p. 232.)

335.Since writing the above, I have discovered in the same rolls a ‘GilbertleTower’ and a ‘ThomasleTouere,’ proving my surmise to be correct. The feminine form is also to be met with in a ‘Juliana le Touestre,’ this entry, too, being found in the same register.

336.Many of these cries originated surnames, which, however, in most cases, died with their owners. ‘Fresh-fish’ is found as the sobriquet of a fishmonger; and ‘Coloppes,’ ‘Mackerell,’ and ‘Peascod,’ all figure in the rolls of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.

337.A complaint of craftsmen presented to Parliament in the reign of Edward IV. speaks of ‘silke in eny wise embrauded, golden laces, tyres of silke or of gold, sadles,’ &c. (Rot. Parl.)

338.The caul, or membrane occasionally found round the head of a newly-born child, was ever preserved by the midwife, in accordance with an old superstition, as a preservative against accidents, but especially against drowning. So late as Feb. 27, 1813, theTimesnewspaper had the following advertisement in its pages: ‘To persons going to sea.—A child’s caul, in a perfect state, to be sold cheap. Apply at 5, Duke Street, Manchester Square, where it may be seen.’ An inventory of goods, dated 1575, we find thus beginning: ‘Imprimis, a cubborde, 20s.; a calle, 5s.; a table, 3s.4d.’ (Richmondshire Wills, p. 259.) With regard to the caul as an article of dress, we may quote the following: ‘Maydens wear sylken callis, with the whyche they kepe in ordre theyr heare, made yellow with lye.’ (Hormani Vulgaria.)

339.Query—Did ‘Richard le Couhelere,’ recorded in the Parliamentary Writs, dress, prepare, and sell cow-heels? There is nothing improbable in it.

340.‘E qe chascun esquier portechapeldes armes son Seigneur:’—‘And that every esquire do bear a cap of the armes of his lord.’ (Stat. of Realm, vol. i. p. 220.)

341.A complaint on the subject of hats, bonnets, and caps, in 1482, speaks of these three specific articles as ‘hœures, bonnettez, et cappez.’ (Stat. of Realm, vol. ii. p. 473.) ‘Bonnet,’ I need scarcely add, is here used, as it is still in Scotland to this day, as meaning a cap or covering generally for the head.

342.The ecclesiastic tailor was not wanting, judging by such an entry as ‘Robert Vestment-maker’ (W. 2).

343.Talking of Latin forms, however, we are reminded that not unfrequently an artisan of this class would be recorded as ‘William Scissor,’ or ‘Walter Cissor,’ a mode of writing the name very common in our more formal records.

344.As a common instance of the transition process then at work we may cite the name of ‘John le Wympler, Goldsmith,’ which occurs in the London records of this time.

345.A ‘Robert Ornel, paternostrer,’ is mentioned, under date 1276, by the same writer. (Memorials of London, p. xxi.)

346.‘Richard le Nedeler’ represented Chichester in Parliament in 1305. (Hist. West. Div. of Sussex.)

347.The different materials used for the manufacture of buttons are incidentally declared in such entries as ‘Jacob le Horner et Botoner,’ or ‘John le Botoner et Latoner,’ found in theCal. and Inventories of the Treasury.

348.Among other entries in theLiber Albusoccurs a list of customs for exposure of merchandise to sale:—‘La charge de mercerie,La charge de leyne d’Espagne,La charge de canevas,La charge de hapertas,La charge de chalouns et draps du Reyns,’ etc.An entry almost immediately ensuing, after mentioning most of the above, when come to ‘hapertas,’ speaks of ‘haberdashery.’ (Gildhallæ Munimenta.)

348.Among other entries in theLiber Albusoccurs a list of customs for exposure of merchandise to sale:—

‘La charge de mercerie,La charge de leyne d’Espagne,La charge de canevas,La charge de hapertas,La charge de chalouns et draps du Reyns,’ etc.

‘La charge de mercerie,

La charge de leyne d’Espagne,

La charge de canevas,

La charge de hapertas,

La charge de chalouns et draps du Reyns,’ etc.

An entry almost immediately ensuing, after mentioning most of the above, when come to ‘hapertas,’ speaks of ‘haberdashery.’ (Gildhallæ Munimenta.)

349.Capgrave says that when Charles was at Constantinople the Emperor gave him ‘a part of Jesu crowne, that flowered there in their sight, and a nayle with which oure Lord was nayled to the tre, and a part of oure Lordis crosse:the smok of oure Ladi: the armé of Seynt Simeon. Alle these relikes broute he to Acon.’ (P. 106.)

350.‘A Marquise (to have) for his gowne, slope, and mantell, xvi yards, and livery for xvi servants.’ (A Book of Precedence.)

351.‘To William Courteray, of London, Embroiderer, in money paid to him for orfries, and other things by him purchased for a velvet vest for the King, therewith embroidered with pelicans, images, and tabernacles of gold, etc., 20l.’ (40 Edward III.Issues of Exchequer.)‘Brouderers, strayners, and carpyte-makers.’(Cocke Lorelle’s Bote.)

‘Brouderers, strayners, and carpyte-makers.’(Cocke Lorelle’s Bote.)

‘Brouderers, strayners, and carpyte-makers.’

(Cocke Lorelle’s Bote.)

352.As a proof of the costliness of this raised needlework, we may quote the following entry found in theIssues of the Exchequer: ‘To William Mugge, chaplain of the King’s Chapel at Windsor, in money paid to Thomas Cheiner, of London, in discharge of 140l.lately due to him for a vest of velvet embroidered with divers work, purchased by him for the chaplain aforesaid.’ (24 Edward III.)The higher nobility seem to have had their special embroiderers. There was certainly a court craftsman of this kind. An act of the first year of Edw. IV. speaks of ‘oure Glasier, Messagiers of oure Exchequer,Browderer, Plumber, Joynour, Maker of Arrows within the Toure of London,’ &c. (Rot. Parl.Edward IV.)

The higher nobility seem to have had their special embroiderers. There was certainly a court craftsman of this kind. An act of the first year of Edw. IV. speaks of ‘oure Glasier, Messagiers of oure Exchequer,Browderer, Plumber, Joynour, Maker of Arrows within the Toure of London,’ &c. (Rot. Parl.Edward IV.)

353.An act, elsewhere referred to, passed in the first year of Edward IV., mentions among others the ‘Keper of oure Armour in the Toure of London, maker of Poyntes, Constable of oure Castell or Lordship of Hadleigh,’ etc.—Rot. Parl.Edward IV.

354.‘Hugh le Ceinter’ was Mayor of Gloucester in the reign of Henry the Third. (Rudder’sHist. Gloucestershire, p. 113.) ‘Benet Seinturer’ was Sheriff of London in 1216. (Strype.)

355.Under date 1355, Mr. Riley, in his interestingMemorials of London, gives the ‘Articles and Ordinances of the Braelers.’ He also has an account of the burning of some gloves andbraelsfor being of false make and fashion in 1350. (Videpp. 277 and 249.)

356.And ‘also, every sowtere that maketh shoon of new rothes’ lether,’ etc. (Usages of Winchester. English Guilds, 359.)

357.‘Item, received of John Bent and John Davies, cordiner, for one pew, iis.’ 1571. (Churchwardens’ Exp. Ludlow, p. 148. Cam. Soc.)

358.In the Mysteries composed for the City Pageant by Randle, a monk of Chester Abbey, in the thirteenth century, a part in it is directed to be sustained by the ‘Corvesters and Shoemakers.’ (Ormerod’sCheshire, p. 301). In this case we have the strictly speaking Saxon feminine termination appended to a Norman word. I have found three ‘Shoemakers.’ ‘Harry Shomaker’ was an attendant of the Princess Mary (1542). (Privy Purse Expenses, p. 2.) ‘Christopher Shoomaker’ was burnt at Newbury (1518), whose story is related by Foxe. The name seems to have lingered on till the close of the xviiith cent., for it is found in St. Anne’s register, Manchester, in 1781, as ‘Showmaker:’ ‘Mary, wife of John Showmaker, buried Aug. 26, 1781.’ This spelling reminds me of an entry in the Household of Princess Elizabeth, Cam. Soc.:—‘Robert Waterman for showing (shoeing) xviis.’ (p. 29.)‘And that the corvesers bye ther lether in the seid Gild-halle.’ (Ordinances of Worcester, English Guilds, 371).

‘And that the corvesers bye ther lether in the seid Gild-halle.’ (Ordinances of Worcester, English Guilds, 371).

359.Another form of the name and occupation is met with in theCorp. Christi Guild, York, in the case of ‘Robert Patener, et Mariona uxor ejus’ (W. ii.).

360.‘John Rykedon, patynmaker,’ occurs in the Patent Rolls (R.R., 1).

361.It is evidently in a depreciatory sense that Bishop Latimer in one of his sermons makes use of this word, while his very employment of it shows how familiar was its meaning as a term of occupation, even in the sixteenth century. He says, speaking of a certain bishop, ‘There stood by him a dubber, one Doctor Dubber: he dubbed him by-and-by, and said,’ &c. Second Sermon before Edward VI.

362.The word was evidently in familiar use. Thus in the will of one William Askame, dated 1390, it is said, ‘Item, Margaretæ prenticiæ Willielmi Askham do et lego a fedir bedd and i matras, ii shetes and a coverlet, i bacyn and i laver, and a bras potte and volette of crysp. Item Johannæ Dagh crisp volet and achalon.’—Test. Ebor., vol. i. p. 130. (Surt. Soc.)‘And that no chalon of ray, or other chalon, shall be made, if it be not of the ancient lawful assize, ordained by the good folks of the trade.’ (Ext. fromOrdinances of the Tapicers, Riley’sLondon, p. 179.)‘Also, non of the Citee ne shal don werche qwyltes ne chalouns withoute the walles of the Citee (i.e.Winchester).’ (English Guilds, p. 351.)The Chaloner is styled the ‘Chaloun-makyere’ in this ordinance.

‘And that no chalon of ray, or other chalon, shall be made, if it be not of the ancient lawful assize, ordained by the good folks of the trade.’ (Ext. fromOrdinances of the Tapicers, Riley’sLondon, p. 179.)

‘Also, non of the Citee ne shal don werche qwyltes ne chalouns withoute the walles of the Citee (i.e.Winchester).’ (English Guilds, p. 351.)

The Chaloner is styled the ‘Chaloun-makyere’ in this ordinance.

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