Chapter 69

2619.  Menu

A bill of fare or Menu at large dinner parties, where there are several courses, should be provided neatly inscribed upon small tablets, and distributed about the table, that the diners may know what there is to come.

2620.  Napkins

Napkins should be folded neatly. The French method, which is very easy, of folding the napkin like a fan, placing it in a glass, and spreading out the upper part, is very pleasing. But the English method of folding is like a slipper, and placing the bread inside its folds is convenient as well as neat.

As the Virtue is in the Tree, Such is the Fruit.

2621.  Bread

Bread should be cut into thick squares, the last thing after the table is laid. If cut too early it becomes dry. A tray should he provided, in which there should be a further supply of bread, new, stale, and brown. For cheese, pulled bread should be provided.

2622.  Carving-knives

Carving-knives should be "put in edge" before the dinner commences, for nothing irritates a good carver, or perplexes a bad one, more than a knife which refuses to perform its office; and there is nothing more annoying to the company than to see the carving-knife gliding to and fro over the steel while the dinner is getting cold, and their appetites are being exhausted by delay.

2623.  Joints

Joints that require carving should be set upon dishes sufficiently large. The space of the table may be economised by setting upon small dishes those things that do not require carving.

2624.  The Carver

The carver should have plenty of room, however closely the diners are compelled to sit together.

2625.  The Vegetables

The vegetables, if the table is very crowded, may be placed upon the sideboard, and handed round by those who wait upon the guests.

2626.  Smaller Joints

Geese, Turkeys, Poultry, Sucking-pigs, &c., should be

carved before being set on table

; especially in those cases where the whole or the principal part of such dishes is likely to be consumed.

2627.  Handing Round

The carver should supply the plates, and the waiter hand them round, instead of putting the question to each guest as to which part he prefers, and then striving to serve him with it, to the prejudice of others present.

2628.  Ladies

Ladies should be helped before gentlemen.

2629.  Waiters

Waiters should present dishes on the left hand; so that the diner may help himself with his right.

2630.  Wine

Wine should be taken after the first course; and it will be found more convenient to let the waiter serve it, than to hand the decanters round, or to allow the guests to fill for themselves.

2631.  Removal

Waiters should be instructed to remove whatever articles upon the table are thrown into disuse by the progress of the dinner, as soon as they are at liberty.

2632.  Finger-Bowls

Finger-glasses, or glass bowls, filled with water, slightly scented or not, as may be preferred, and slightly warm in winter, and iced in summer, should be handed round.

2633.  Dessert

When the dessert is served, the wine should be set upon the table, and the decanters passed round by the company.

2634.  Fried Fish

Fried fish should be divided into suitable slices, before the fire, as soon as it leaves the frying-pan.

2635.  Cod's Head and Shoulders

The thick part of the back is best. It should be carved in unbroken slices, and each solid slice should be accompanied by a bit of the sound, from under the back-bone, or from the cheek, jaws, tongue, &c., of the head.

2636.  Hake

Hake, if sent to table, simply boiled, is served as cod. The better way of dressing hake is to cut it transversely to the length into slices about one inch in thickness. These should be fried and sent to table garnished with parsley.

2637.  Turbot

Strike the fish-slice along the back-bone, which runs from head to tail, and then serve square slices from the thick part, accompanying each slice with some of the gelatinous skin of the fins and thin part, which may be raised by laying the fish-slice flat.

2638.  Brill

Brill is served in the same manner.

2639.  John Dory

John Dory is also served in the same way. This fish has a favourite piece on the cheek.

2640.  Plaice and Flat-fish

Plaice and flat-fish generally, are served in the same manner.

2641.  Soles

Soles, when large, may be served as

turbot

; but when small they should be sliced across.

2642.  Salmon

Serve a slice of the thick with a smaller slice of the thin part. Keep the flakes of the thick part as unbroken as possible.

2643.  Mackerel

Mackerel should be served in pieces cut through the side when they are large. It small, they may be divided through the back-bone, and served in halves. The shoulder part is considered the best.

2644.  Haddock and Gurnet

Haddock and Gurnet are served as directed for

mackerel

.

2645.  Whiting

Whiting are usually fried and curled; they should be cut in halves down the back, and served. The shoulder-part is best.

2646.  Eels

Eels are usually cut into several pieces, either for stewing or frying. The thick parts are considered best.

2647.  Trout

Trout, if small, are served whole; if large, they may be divided through the back-bone and served in halves. The same applies to perch and other smaller fresh-water fish.

2648.  Pike and Jack

Pike and Jack should be served in thick unbroken pieces taken from the side or shoulder of the fish accompanied by a piece of the stuffing with which these fish are usually filled.

2649.  Remarks

The

roes

of mackerel, the

sound

of cod, the

head

of carp, the

cheek

of John Dory, the

liver

of cod, &c., are severally considered delicacies, though not by all persons.

2650.  Saddle of Mutton

Cut thin slices parallel with the back-bone; or slice it obliquely from the bone to the edge.

2651.  Haunch of Mutton or Venison

Make an incision across the knuckle-end, right into the bone, and set free the gravy. Then cut thin slices the whole length of the haunch. Serve pieces of fat with slices of lean.

2652.  Rump or Sirloin of Beef

The undercut, called the "fillet," is exceedingly tender, and some carvers will turn the joint and serve the fillet first, reserving the meat on the upper part to be eaten cold. From the upper part, whether hot or cold, the slices should be cut lengthways from top to bottom, so that the fat and lean may be distributed in fair proportions.

2653.  Ribs of Beef

Ribs of beef are carved in the same way as the sirloin; but there is no fillet.

2654.  Round of Beef

First cut away the irregular outside pieces, to obtain a good surface, and then serve thin and broad slices. Serve bits of the udder fat with the lean.

2655.  Brisket of Beef

Cut off the outside, and then serve long slices, cut the whole length of the bones.

2656.  Shoulder of Mutton

Make a cross incision on the fore-part of the shoulder, and serve slices from both sides of the incision; then cut slices lengthways along the shoulder-blade. Cut fat slices from the round corner. Another and more economical way, is to cut slices from the under part when first brought to table. The joint then presents a better appearance when cold.

2657.  Leg of Mutton

Make an incision across the centre, and serve from the knuckle-side, or the opposite, according to choice. The knuckle-side will be generally found well done, and the opposite side underdone, for those who prefer it.

2658.  Loin of Mutton

Cut down between the bones, into chops.

2659.  Quarter of Lamb

Lay the knife flat, and cut off the shoulder. The proper point for incision will be indicated by the position of the shoulder. A little lemon juice may be squeezed over the divided part, and a little Cayenne pepper, and the shoulder transferred to another dish, for the opposite end of the table. Next separate the

brisket

, or short bones, by cutting lengthways along the breast. Then serve from either part as desired.

Travel North, or South, or East, or West...

2660.  Loin of Veal

Loin of veal may be cut across through the thick part; or slices may be taken in the direction of the bones. Serve pieces of kidney and fat with each plate.

2661.  Fillet of Veal

Fillet of veal is carved as a round of beef. The browned bits of the outside are esteemed, and should be shared among the company, with bits of fat, and of forcemeat from the centre.

2662.  Breast of Veal

Breast of veal should be divided by cutting the

brisket

, or soft bones, the same as the basket of lamb. When the sweetbread comes to table with the breast, a small piece should be served on each plate.

2663.  Sucking-Pig

Sucking-pig should be sent to table in two halves, the head divided, and one half laid at each end of the dish. The shoulders and legs should be taken off by the obvious method of laying the knife under them, and lifting the joint out. They may be served whole, or divided. The ribs are easily divided, and are considered choice.

2664.  Tongues

Tongues are cut across in tolerably thick slices.

2665.  Calves' Heads

Calves' heads are carved across the cheek, and pieces taken from any part that is come-at-able. The tongue and brain sauce are served separate.

2666.  Knuckle of Veal

Knuckle of veal is carved by cutting off the outside pieces, and then obtaining good slices, and apportioning the fat to the lean, adding bits of the sinew that lie around the joint.

2667.  Leg of Pork

Leg of pork is carved as a ham, but in thicker slices; when stuffed, the stuffing must be sought for under the skin at the large end.

2668.  Loin of Pork

Loin of pork is carved the same as a

loin of mutton

.

2669.  Spare-rib of Pork

Spare-rib of pork is carved by separating the chops, which should previously have been jointed. Cut as far as the joint, then return the knife to the point of the bones, and press over, to disclose the joint, which may then be relieved with the point of the knife.

2670.  Hams

Hams are cut in very thin slices from the knuckle to the blade.

2671.  Pheasants

Carve the breast in slices. Then take off the legs and wings.

2672.  Fowls

Fix the fork firmly into the breast, then slip the knife under the legs, and lay it over and dis-joint; detach the wings in the same manner. Do the same on both sides, The smaller bones require a little practice, and it would be well to watch the operations of a good carver. When the merry-thought has been removed (which it may be by slipping the knife through at the point of the breast), and the neck-bones drawn out, the trunk may be turned over, and the knife thrust through the back-bone.

2673.  Partridges

Partridges are best carved by cutting off the breast, and then dividing it. But for more economical carving, the wings may be cut with a small breast slice attached.

2674.  Woodcocks

Woodcocks may be cut right through the centre, from head to tail. Serve with each portion a piece of the toast upon which they come to table.

2675.  Pigeons

Pigeons may be carved as woodcocks, or as partridges.

2676.  Snipes

Snipes may be carved the same as woodcocks.

2677.  Turkey

Cut slices from each side of the breast down, to the ribs; the legs may then be removed, and the thighs divided from the drumsticks, which are generally tough; but the pinions of the wing are very good, and the white part of the wing is preferred by many to the breast. The stuffing is usually put in the breast; but when truffles, mushrooms, or oysters are put into the body, an opening must be made into it by cutting through the apron.

2678.  Goose

The apron must be cut off in a circular direction, when a glass of port wine, mixed with a teaspoonful of mustard, may be poured into the body or not. Some of the stuffing should then be drawn out, and, the neck of the goose being turned a little towards the carver, the flesh of the breast should be sliced on each side of the bone. The wings may then be taken off, then the legs. The other parts are carved the same as a fowl.

A Man's Own Hose is Still the Best.

2679.  Ducks

Ducks may be carved, when large, the same as geese; but when young, like chickens. The thigh joints, however, lie much closer into the trunk than those of fowls.

2680.  Hares

Hares should be placed with their heads to the left of the carver. Slices may be taken down the whole length of the back; the legs, which, next to the back, are considered the best eating, may then be taken off, and the flesh divided from or served upon them, after the small bones have been parted from the thighs. The shoulders, which are not much esteemed, though sometimes liked by sportsmen, may be taken off by passing the knife between the joint and the trunk. When a hare is young, the back is sometimes divided at the joints into three or four parts, after being freed from the ribs and under-skin.

2681.  Remarks

Sufficient general instructions are here given to enable the carver, by observation and practice, to acquit himself well. The art of carving does not consist merely in dissecting the joints sent to table, but in the judicious and economical distribution of them, and the grace and neatness with which this distribution is effected. Every dish should be sent to table properly garnished (where needed), and the carver should preserve the neatness of the arrangement as much as possible.

2682.  Dyeing

The filaments from which stuffs of all kinds are fabricated are derived either from the animal or vegetable kingdom. We recognise the former by the property they possess of liberating ammonia on being treated with potash; while the latter afford a liquor having an acid reaction under the same treatment. The animal kingdom furnishes three varieties—silk, wool, and the furs, &c., of various animals; the vegetable kingdom also three—flax, hemp, and cotton: all of which require certain preliminary preparations to render them fit for the dyer, which do not come within our province, our space only admitting of a rapid glance at the production of the various colours.

2683.  General Observations

The various shades produced by colouring matters may be classed in one or other of the following groups:

Some colours adhere at once to the stuff, and are called

substantial colours

; while others require that the material to be dyed should undergo some previous preparation in order to render it permanent. The substances used to fix the colouring matters are called

mordants

, which should possess four qualifications:


Back to IndexNext