BANGOR IS-Y-COED,(Flintshire.)

Before quitting this remarkably interesting vicinity, we take leave to quote the following description from the graphic pen of Miss Costello:—

“From Bangor the lofty towers and turrets of Penrhyn Castle are conspicuous in the scenery, and have a very grand and imposing appearance, more so than any modern erection of the kind I ever saw. The building stands on a commanding height, and from its elevation has a magnificent view of BeaumarisBay, and all the wide sweep of the sea, Puffin or Priestholm Island and a great part of Anglesea, the fine bold rock of the Great Orme’s Head, said to have once been dedicated to Serpent worship, and the range of the Caernarvonshire mountains.“So stately, so massive, and so stupendous is this castle, that it scarcely seems the work of a modern architect; and if there had been more simplicity observed in its construction, it might well pass for a genuine Roman castle. The enormous profusion of ornament with which the doors, windows, staircases, halls, and ceilings are covered, betray the effort made to render that complete which would have been more so with less pains. The involved pillars, the redundant zigzags, the countless grotesque heads, of all sizes, grinning from all heights, the groves of slender columns, the circular arches, the semi-pointed arcades, form a maze of architecture such as never could have before, in any age, appeared on one spot.“To wander through the wondrous halls of Penrhyn is like struggling along in a bewildered dream, occasioned by having studied some elaborate work on the early buildings of the Saxons and Normans. The eyes are dazzled and the mind confused with the quick succession of astonishing forms; but the result is rather wonder at the imagination or close copying of the artist, and at the enormous wealth which could repay such an exertion of skill, than admiration of the beauty created. Mona marble and fine stone furnish materials for all these sculptured treasures, and slate enters into much of the adornment; for close by are the famous slate-quarries, which have produced the enormous sums expended on this erection. In order to shew what can be done with slate, various articles of furniture are placed in the rooms occupying the places usually filled by carved wood and marble; chimney-pieces and tables of polished slate are seen, but the great triumph is a bedstead, beautifully carved, which, though far from elegant, is yet exceedingly curious.“The library and drawing-rooms are very fine, and have even a comfortable appearance: all the house is gorgeously decorated, and all its laboured splendour announces such immense riches, that it seems as though the gnomes who work gold and silver in the neighbouring hills had all been made slaves of some potent lamp or ring, and had worked incessantly for years in the construction and adornment of the most gigantic mass of architecture that ever was beheld. There are, however, veryfew specimens of the higher order of art; a few portraits are to be found in one room, which are curious. In particular I was struck with a likeness of the celebrated Anne Clifford, of Cumberland, when a child: she is dressed in a stiff black dress, all over buttons and ornaments, and from under her arm peeps a hideous little dog. As, in her memoirs, she dwells a good deal on her own beauty, one cannot but smile at this comment on her vanity, for, unless the artist did her great injustice, she must have been a singularly ugly child. Two portraits of the Countess of Derby are remarkable: one has a child’s doll lying on a table near her, and in the other she is represented holding a feather fan, and covered and half smothered with elaborate ruffs which seem to bristle up in every part of her attire.“The famous hirlas horn, belonging to an ancient Cambrian prince, the treasure of the castle, we had not an opportunity of seeing, as we found it was carefully locked up from public view. It held the same place as the Saxon wassail bowl, and it was customary that those who had the honour of drinking from it should empty the horn at one draught, and then blow it, to prove that they had performed the feat expected of them. One of the most picturesque objects on the way to the famous slate quarries, is the little mill of Coet Mor, whose wheel is turned by a rushing stream breaking wildly over heaps of rocks.“The slate quarries of Penrhyn are situated near Nant Ffrancon, at a spot called Cae Braich-y-Cefn, and are exceedingly curious, and even picturesque. We were conducted over them by a very loquacious Irishman, the only person of his nation employed in the works, all the others being Welsh.“Most of these places, where enormous labour produces enormous wealth, are to me displeasing to contemplate; but there is nothing here that conveys an idea of over-tasked workmen, no horrible underground toil and dark dungeon-like caves, where human creatures are condemned, like souls in penance for some hideous crime, to drag heavy weights and chains through frightful chasms, and delve and dig for ore in spaces not large enough for them to stand upright; here are no deadly vapours, no fatal gases mortal to humanity, all is wide and open in the pure light of day, high, and broad, and healthy. The mountain is cut into ridges of slate, and here and there the projecting edges have formed themselves into graceful shapes: in the very centre of the quarry rises a beautiful conical pillar of slate which the admiration of the workmen has spared, nowthat their labours have brought it to the shape which it bears. It is a great ornament to the area, and it is to be regretted that in time it must fall, as the slate of which it is composed happens to be of the purest kind. The huts of the workmen scattered over the quarry have a singular effect, and the wild aspect of the men accords well with their abodes. The thundering sound produced by the occasional blasting of the rock is very grand, as it rolls and echoes amongst the caves, and along the heights; and the grey masses glowing in the sun, and reflecting the sky through their rents, have an imposing aspect.”

“So stately, so massive, and so stupendous is this castle, that it scarcely seems the work of a modern architect; and if there had been more simplicity observed in its construction, it might well pass for a genuine Roman castle. The enormous profusion of ornament with which the doors, windows, staircases, halls, and ceilings are covered, betray the effort made to render that complete which would have been more so with less pains. The involved pillars, the redundant zigzags, the countless grotesque heads, of all sizes, grinning from all heights, the groves of slender columns, the circular arches, the semi-pointed arcades, form a maze of architecture such as never could have before, in any age, appeared on one spot.

“To wander through the wondrous halls of Penrhyn is like struggling along in a bewildered dream, occasioned by having studied some elaborate work on the early buildings of the Saxons and Normans. The eyes are dazzled and the mind confused with the quick succession of astonishing forms; but the result is rather wonder at the imagination or close copying of the artist, and at the enormous wealth which could repay such an exertion of skill, than admiration of the beauty created. Mona marble and fine stone furnish materials for all these sculptured treasures, and slate enters into much of the adornment; for close by are the famous slate-quarries, which have produced the enormous sums expended on this erection. In order to shew what can be done with slate, various articles of furniture are placed in the rooms occupying the places usually filled by carved wood and marble; chimney-pieces and tables of polished slate are seen, but the great triumph is a bedstead, beautifully carved, which, though far from elegant, is yet exceedingly curious.

“The library and drawing-rooms are very fine, and have even a comfortable appearance: all the house is gorgeously decorated, and all its laboured splendour announces such immense riches, that it seems as though the gnomes who work gold and silver in the neighbouring hills had all been made slaves of some potent lamp or ring, and had worked incessantly for years in the construction and adornment of the most gigantic mass of architecture that ever was beheld. There are, however, veryfew specimens of the higher order of art; a few portraits are to be found in one room, which are curious. In particular I was struck with a likeness of the celebrated Anne Clifford, of Cumberland, when a child: she is dressed in a stiff black dress, all over buttons and ornaments, and from under her arm peeps a hideous little dog. As, in her memoirs, she dwells a good deal on her own beauty, one cannot but smile at this comment on her vanity, for, unless the artist did her great injustice, she must have been a singularly ugly child. Two portraits of the Countess of Derby are remarkable: one has a child’s doll lying on a table near her, and in the other she is represented holding a feather fan, and covered and half smothered with elaborate ruffs which seem to bristle up in every part of her attire.

“The famous hirlas horn, belonging to an ancient Cambrian prince, the treasure of the castle, we had not an opportunity of seeing, as we found it was carefully locked up from public view. It held the same place as the Saxon wassail bowl, and it was customary that those who had the honour of drinking from it should empty the horn at one draught, and then blow it, to prove that they had performed the feat expected of them. One of the most picturesque objects on the way to the famous slate quarries, is the little mill of Coet Mor, whose wheel is turned by a rushing stream breaking wildly over heaps of rocks.

“The slate quarries of Penrhyn are situated near Nant Ffrancon, at a spot called Cae Braich-y-Cefn, and are exceedingly curious, and even picturesque. We were conducted over them by a very loquacious Irishman, the only person of his nation employed in the works, all the others being Welsh.

“Most of these places, where enormous labour produces enormous wealth, are to me displeasing to contemplate; but there is nothing here that conveys an idea of over-tasked workmen, no horrible underground toil and dark dungeon-like caves, where human creatures are condemned, like souls in penance for some hideous crime, to drag heavy weights and chains through frightful chasms, and delve and dig for ore in spaces not large enough for them to stand upright; here are no deadly vapours, no fatal gases mortal to humanity, all is wide and open in the pure light of day, high, and broad, and healthy. The mountain is cut into ridges of slate, and here and there the projecting edges have formed themselves into graceful shapes: in the very centre of the quarry rises a beautiful conical pillar of slate which the admiration of the workmen has spared, nowthat their labours have brought it to the shape which it bears. It is a great ornament to the area, and it is to be regretted that in time it must fall, as the slate of which it is composed happens to be of the purest kind. The huts of the workmen scattered over the quarry have a singular effect, and the wild aspect of the men accords well with their abodes. The thundering sound produced by the occasional blasting of the rock is very grand, as it rolls and echoes amongst the caves, and along the heights; and the grey masses glowing in the sun, and reflecting the sky through their rents, have an imposing aspect.”

In July, 1844, the King of Saxony made a tour through England and Wales; a narrative of which, written by His Majesty’s Physician, Dr. Carus, has been published in the present year (1846). From that journal of the royal travels, we extract the subjoined passages—which may serve to show the impressions made upon the mind of an intelligent though somewhat prejudiced foreigner, by the more striking objects of interest in this locality.

“As the road approaches Bangor, it runs near the sea, and brings us close to the end of one of the most extraordinary structures of modern times—the vast iron suspension bridge which forms the junction between the mainland and the island, universally known and celebrated as the Menai Bridge.“The drivers were ordered to stop, and we dismounted, in order to pass over and examine this splendid work, and endeavour to gain as accurate an idea as possible of its nature and size. The coasts of Wales and Anglesea at both sides of the strait, are rocky, and about 100 feet high, and the breadth of the channel by which they are separated, is about 1600 feet. The object was to connect the two coasts by a bridge, and it has been fully attained. Two very stout columns of solid masonry are built in the water, one on each side, over the summits of which are stretched the immense chains, from which the bridge itself is suspended. The channel between the columns is about 600 feet wide, and over this stretches the horizontal line of the road-way, which is supported and made fast by means of about 800 strong iron rods. Each of the sixteen chains which constitute the suspending power, is stated to be 1714 feet long, and consists of large massive links, joined and bound together by strong iron bolts. These chains pass over the tops of the supporting columns, on moveable ironrollers of great strength, and are thus in a condition readily to accommodate themselves to the changes of temperature, without risk. The greatest difference in length between the strongest summer heat and most intense winter cold, is said to amount to sixteen inches. The work was begun under the direction of Mr. Telford, in the year 1819, and finished in 1826. Such is the general idea of the whole structure. When seen from the side, it is very difficult immediately to form a notion of the magnitude of the work; and besides, the simplicity of the outline gives at first an impression of very moderate extent. The feeling is very much the same as that with which strangers are impressed on the first view of St. Peter’s in Rome. They find it extremely difficult to believe that a structure of such magnitude is before them. And as the banks on both sides are very uniform, it requires to be compared with some other object—such as that of a large ship sailing through beneath, in order to gain a correct notion of its real magnitude. On viewing the bridge, and passing over it, through its long uniform alleys of ever-recurring iron rods, another observation forced itself upon my mind. This immense work, which in all its parts is regulated by the principle of utility, is totally deficient in all the charms of beauty. It cuts the landscape like a black uniform line, concave on one side, and perfectly horizontal on the other; and when viewed closely, the columns by which the bridge is supported, are wholly destitute of every description of architectural or sculptural ornament. Those perpetually recurring iron rods, which follow one another in monotonous rows, only serve to suggest the feeling of despair to which a painter must be reduced in any attempt to delineate the structure, and to give any thing like an accurate drawing of this tedious iron lattice-road. True, it may be very difficult to combine the demands of taste with the strict principles of utility in such an undertaking, where the grand object is strength. There is, properly speaking, a genuine English, dry, pedantic character usually exhibited in such structures as this. And, after all, what style should art here apply in order to introduce the charms of beauty into a work of this character? Neither the Egyptian nor Grecian style is at all appropriate to works in iron—the Gothic is quite as little applicable to such a purpose—and I have already remarked that in addition to these three, there can be as little pretension to introduce a fourth, really distinct from them, as to add a new kingdom tothose of the recognised mineral, animal, and vegetable ones. This makes the task of the architect a very difficult one to accomplish. It is for them to see how the difficulty is to be met.“Having passed over the bridge to the Anglesea side, we descended to the shore, and took a boat, in order to have a view of this immense structure from beneath. By far the clearest idea of the vastness of the work is thus obtained, by viewing it from the green sea, which flows beneath with a gentle southerly current; the true magnitude and proportions of the bridge are then most deeply impressed upon the mind; but even here, no idea of beauty is suggested. Other bridges, with their various arches and ornamental buttresses, may, and frequently do present objects of great beauty to the eye. This, however, is, and must always remain, a greatmathematical figure.“After having thus examined the bridge from all parts of the river, we descended into the vast cavern on the Anglesea side, in which the ends of the chains are made fast in the rocks far under ground. The whole is planned with great ingenuity and skill. The rock, which forms the resisting power, is armed, as it were, with huge masses of iron, containing deep mortices, into which the bolts that bind the ends of the chains are made fast.“In this manner, therefore, the sixteen powerful chains are fastened in the deep rocks on both sides of the strait; and assuredly, no human power or weight can be well conceived sufficient to tear them from the depth in which they are anchored. Even the long Macadamized bridge itself presents such a degree of stability, as to be very little moved by the carriages which pass over its surface.”

“The drivers were ordered to stop, and we dismounted, in order to pass over and examine this splendid work, and endeavour to gain as accurate an idea as possible of its nature and size. The coasts of Wales and Anglesea at both sides of the strait, are rocky, and about 100 feet high, and the breadth of the channel by which they are separated, is about 1600 feet. The object was to connect the two coasts by a bridge, and it has been fully attained. Two very stout columns of solid masonry are built in the water, one on each side, over the summits of which are stretched the immense chains, from which the bridge itself is suspended. The channel between the columns is about 600 feet wide, and over this stretches the horizontal line of the road-way, which is supported and made fast by means of about 800 strong iron rods. Each of the sixteen chains which constitute the suspending power, is stated to be 1714 feet long, and consists of large massive links, joined and bound together by strong iron bolts. These chains pass over the tops of the supporting columns, on moveable ironrollers of great strength, and are thus in a condition readily to accommodate themselves to the changes of temperature, without risk. The greatest difference in length between the strongest summer heat and most intense winter cold, is said to amount to sixteen inches. The work was begun under the direction of Mr. Telford, in the year 1819, and finished in 1826. Such is the general idea of the whole structure. When seen from the side, it is very difficult immediately to form a notion of the magnitude of the work; and besides, the simplicity of the outline gives at first an impression of very moderate extent. The feeling is very much the same as that with which strangers are impressed on the first view of St. Peter’s in Rome. They find it extremely difficult to believe that a structure of such magnitude is before them. And as the banks on both sides are very uniform, it requires to be compared with some other object—such as that of a large ship sailing through beneath, in order to gain a correct notion of its real magnitude. On viewing the bridge, and passing over it, through its long uniform alleys of ever-recurring iron rods, another observation forced itself upon my mind. This immense work, which in all its parts is regulated by the principle of utility, is totally deficient in all the charms of beauty. It cuts the landscape like a black uniform line, concave on one side, and perfectly horizontal on the other; and when viewed closely, the columns by which the bridge is supported, are wholly destitute of every description of architectural or sculptural ornament. Those perpetually recurring iron rods, which follow one another in monotonous rows, only serve to suggest the feeling of despair to which a painter must be reduced in any attempt to delineate the structure, and to give any thing like an accurate drawing of this tedious iron lattice-road. True, it may be very difficult to combine the demands of taste with the strict principles of utility in such an undertaking, where the grand object is strength. There is, properly speaking, a genuine English, dry, pedantic character usually exhibited in such structures as this. And, after all, what style should art here apply in order to introduce the charms of beauty into a work of this character? Neither the Egyptian nor Grecian style is at all appropriate to works in iron—the Gothic is quite as little applicable to such a purpose—and I have already remarked that in addition to these three, there can be as little pretension to introduce a fourth, really distinct from them, as to add a new kingdom tothose of the recognised mineral, animal, and vegetable ones. This makes the task of the architect a very difficult one to accomplish. It is for them to see how the difficulty is to be met.

“Having passed over the bridge to the Anglesea side, we descended to the shore, and took a boat, in order to have a view of this immense structure from beneath. By far the clearest idea of the vastness of the work is thus obtained, by viewing it from the green sea, which flows beneath with a gentle southerly current; the true magnitude and proportions of the bridge are then most deeply impressed upon the mind; but even here, no idea of beauty is suggested. Other bridges, with their various arches and ornamental buttresses, may, and frequently do present objects of great beauty to the eye. This, however, is, and must always remain, a greatmathematical figure.

“After having thus examined the bridge from all parts of the river, we descended into the vast cavern on the Anglesea side, in which the ends of the chains are made fast in the rocks far under ground. The whole is planned with great ingenuity and skill. The rock, which forms the resisting power, is armed, as it were, with huge masses of iron, containing deep mortices, into which the bolts that bind the ends of the chains are made fast.

“In this manner, therefore, the sixteen powerful chains are fastened in the deep rocks on both sides of the strait; and assuredly, no human power or weight can be well conceived sufficient to tear them from the depth in which they are anchored. Even the long Macadamized bridge itself presents such a degree of stability, as to be very little moved by the carriages which pass over its surface.”

* * * *

“On the morning of the 13th, (July, 1844,) the birthday of my dear mother, I enjoyed a beautiful view of the little port of Bangor, from the garden terrace of the hotel, from which a view is obtained of the northern opening of the Menai Strait, of the bay of Beaumaris, and the more distant mountains of Wales. The weather, too, was tolerably fine in the morning; but at the time of our departure it had become cloudy, and it was raining hard when we arrived at the remarkable and extensive Penrhyn slate quarries, which are of great importance to the whole of Wales. They are situated about six miles to the N.E. of Bangor, on the slope of the hill, and have beenparticularly rich and productive for the last fifty years. When one arrives at this quarry from below, it presents the appearance almost of a crater open towards the front, along the lips of which, twelve or fourteen terraces run, one above another, each of which is from forty-five to fifty feet high, and upon which the works of blasting and digging are carried on by about 2000 workmen. The stone is of a reddish-brown; sometimes, also, greyish slate, of fine grain, which splits well into plates, and takes a fine polish. The mass never contains organic remains, but is frequently traversed by strata of quarry or limestone, in which crystals of some metals, principally copper and iron, occur.“The manner in which these quarries are worked is the following. On the galleries, or terraces, large masses of slate are first detached by means of powder, and then roughly hewn into shape. There are laid along each of these terraces tram-roads formed of rails loosely laid down, upon which the masses of slate, in waggons with suitable wheels, are thrust along by men to the little houses situated on the declivity of the mountain, at the extremities of the galleries. Here they are split into smaller plates; and it is curious to observe how regularly the slate splits into fine and still finer plates, down to the thickness of three or four lines. Several pieces are allowed to retain a thickness of an inch or an inch and a half, and are used for tables and flagstones, the thinner ones for covering roofs, &c. The manner, too, in which they are squared, being cut out at once by a sort of hatchet, according to a line made by means of a ruler, is very curious. The plates thus formed are distinguished by very amusing names. Thus the largest are calledqueens, the nextprincesses, thenduchesses,ladies, and so on. The enormous quantity of slate produced may be estimated from the facts, that a railway has been constructed specially from these quarries to Penrhyn harbour, at an expense of £170,000, whichevery weektakes down between 500 and 600 tons, or about 12,000 cwt. of slate; and that the yearly net produce has sometimes brought in as much as £60,000 to the owner of the quarry, the Hon. Douglas Pennant.“The quarrying itself is attended with considerable danger. The workmen, when a portion of the rock is to be blasted from the upper part of a gallery, are obliged to bore the hole, suspended in mid-air by ropes, to load the hole so bored, to set fire to the match, and then to place themselves beyond thereach of the explosion. They are also exposed to the chance of accidents from the falling of portions of the sharp slate; and it was carious, even yesterday—on which, being pay-day, the work was not regularly going on—to hear now and then the explosion of the blasting of some part of the rock, at the same time that it was almost difficult to pass along the galleries, without falling over the little railways or some of the sharp pieces of stone. The manner in which Queen Victoria was received here, on her visit some years ago, must have produced a curious effect. As soon as she arrived, 1300 explosions were heard from all parts of the quarry, having been all previously prepared for this purpose. After having (the greater part of the time in the rain) inspected all the parts of this immense quarry, and, besides, a saw-mill, for cutting up the thicker plates of the slate, we returned towards Bangor, and visited Penrhyn Castle, the property of the Hon. D. Pennant. In olden times, a castle belonging to Roderic Molwynog, grandson of Cadwallader, stood on this spot. It was rebuilt in the time of Henry the Sixth, and has been quite lately renewed (under the direction of a London architect, of the name of Hopper) by the father-in-law of the present possessor. It is a remarkable and splendid building, such as could only be completed with a revenue like that proceeding from the quarries.“On entering the park, the castle is seen on a wooded height, grey, like Windsor, with large towers and high turrets, without any apparent roof, quite like an old fortress. Through the castle-gate we entered the court-yard, ornamented in the Norman style: but this style is much more splendidly and grandly exhibited in the entrance-hall, from whence staircases conduct to the upper rooms. Every thing here is in the Saxon style of building; the columns with their curious ornaments, and the upper parts covered with arabesques. Tall stone candelabra and a splendid chimney-piece, all in the same style, increase the magnificent appearance of the hall; the windows with their round arches are filled with stained glass; the staircase winds over arches supported on columns, and beside Norman statues; in a word, the whole sight is grand and imposing. The internal arrangements of the whole place, the drawing and dining rooms, the library, the bed-rooms, are all on a similar scale of magnificence; several wainscotted with beautiful carved oak: the furniture and beds all harmonising with the prevailing style of the building. We remarked a curious object in thestate bed-room (almost all such castles appear to have such a state room, with a bed in it); namely, a bed, of which the whole of the bedstead and the posts which supported the canopy were made of the finest black slate, beautifully polished and manufactured. This reference to the principal foundation of the wealth of the possessor, appeared to me to show his gratitude rather than his taste. It may easily be supposed, however, that other curious objects were to be seen here; among these, we were shewn one of those curious drinking horns, formerly general in this district, as also in Scandinavia. I was sorry that we entirely lost the view from the continued rain; for this view, both towards the sea and towards the mountains, must be of a very splendid description.”

“The manner in which these quarries are worked is the following. On the galleries, or terraces, large masses of slate are first detached by means of powder, and then roughly hewn into shape. There are laid along each of these terraces tram-roads formed of rails loosely laid down, upon which the masses of slate, in waggons with suitable wheels, are thrust along by men to the little houses situated on the declivity of the mountain, at the extremities of the galleries. Here they are split into smaller plates; and it is curious to observe how regularly the slate splits into fine and still finer plates, down to the thickness of three or four lines. Several pieces are allowed to retain a thickness of an inch or an inch and a half, and are used for tables and flagstones, the thinner ones for covering roofs, &c. The manner, too, in which they are squared, being cut out at once by a sort of hatchet, according to a line made by means of a ruler, is very curious. The plates thus formed are distinguished by very amusing names. Thus the largest are calledqueens, the nextprincesses, thenduchesses,ladies, and so on. The enormous quantity of slate produced may be estimated from the facts, that a railway has been constructed specially from these quarries to Penrhyn harbour, at an expense of £170,000, whichevery weektakes down between 500 and 600 tons, or about 12,000 cwt. of slate; and that the yearly net produce has sometimes brought in as much as £60,000 to the owner of the quarry, the Hon. Douglas Pennant.

“The quarrying itself is attended with considerable danger. The workmen, when a portion of the rock is to be blasted from the upper part of a gallery, are obliged to bore the hole, suspended in mid-air by ropes, to load the hole so bored, to set fire to the match, and then to place themselves beyond thereach of the explosion. They are also exposed to the chance of accidents from the falling of portions of the sharp slate; and it was carious, even yesterday—on which, being pay-day, the work was not regularly going on—to hear now and then the explosion of the blasting of some part of the rock, at the same time that it was almost difficult to pass along the galleries, without falling over the little railways or some of the sharp pieces of stone. The manner in which Queen Victoria was received here, on her visit some years ago, must have produced a curious effect. As soon as she arrived, 1300 explosions were heard from all parts of the quarry, having been all previously prepared for this purpose. After having (the greater part of the time in the rain) inspected all the parts of this immense quarry, and, besides, a saw-mill, for cutting up the thicker plates of the slate, we returned towards Bangor, and visited Penrhyn Castle, the property of the Hon. D. Pennant. In olden times, a castle belonging to Roderic Molwynog, grandson of Cadwallader, stood on this spot. It was rebuilt in the time of Henry the Sixth, and has been quite lately renewed (under the direction of a London architect, of the name of Hopper) by the father-in-law of the present possessor. It is a remarkable and splendid building, such as could only be completed with a revenue like that proceeding from the quarries.

“On entering the park, the castle is seen on a wooded height, grey, like Windsor, with large towers and high turrets, without any apparent roof, quite like an old fortress. Through the castle-gate we entered the court-yard, ornamented in the Norman style: but this style is much more splendidly and grandly exhibited in the entrance-hall, from whence staircases conduct to the upper rooms. Every thing here is in the Saxon style of building; the columns with their curious ornaments, and the upper parts covered with arabesques. Tall stone candelabra and a splendid chimney-piece, all in the same style, increase the magnificent appearance of the hall; the windows with their round arches are filled with stained glass; the staircase winds over arches supported on columns, and beside Norman statues; in a word, the whole sight is grand and imposing. The internal arrangements of the whole place, the drawing and dining rooms, the library, the bed-rooms, are all on a similar scale of magnificence; several wainscotted with beautiful carved oak: the furniture and beds all harmonising with the prevailing style of the building. We remarked a curious object in thestate bed-room (almost all such castles appear to have such a state room, with a bed in it); namely, a bed, of which the whole of the bedstead and the posts which supported the canopy were made of the finest black slate, beautifully polished and manufactured. This reference to the principal foundation of the wealth of the possessor, appeared to me to show his gratitude rather than his taste. It may easily be supposed, however, that other curious objects were to be seen here; among these, we were shewn one of those curious drinking horns, formerly general in this district, as also in Scandinavia. I was sorry that we entirely lost the view from the continued rain; for this view, both towards the sea and towards the mountains, must be of a very splendid description.”

Chester

Ellesmere

Holt

Overton

Whitchurch

10½

Wrexham

Bangor Is-y-coed stands in a detached part of the country, on the banks of the Dee, over which is a good stone bridge of five arches, from the vicinity of which a beautiful landscape is presented. This place is celebrated as the site of the most ancient monastery in Britain, founded, as old writers assert, by Lucius, the son of Coel, and first Christian king of Britain, prior to the year 180. Lucius formed it into a university, for the increase of learning, and the preservation of the Christian faith in this realm; and it produced many learned men even in that early age. At the arrival of Augustine about 596, on a mission from Pope Gregory I. to convert the English Saxons to Christianity, this monastery appears to have been in a very flourishing state. The monks at Bangor were independent of the Romish church; and in a conference between St. Augustine and its governors, the imperious missionary demanded of them that they should keep the feast of Easter at the same time that the Papists did; that they should administer baptism according to the ceremonies of the church of Rome; and “preach the word of life with him and his fellows.” In other things, he said, they would be allowed to retain their ancient customs, insolently concluding, that “if they would not accept of peace with their brethren, they should receive war from their enemies.” Theyrefused obedience to his injunctions, and resolutely maintained the original rites of their church. Shortly after this period followed the dreadful massacre of the monks of Bangor.

Not long after this event, the monastery became neglected, and went entirely to decay. William of Malmsbury, who lived shortly after the Norman conquest, asserts, that even in his time, there remained only some relics of its ancient magnificence: there were, he says, so many ruined churches and such immense heaps of rubbish, as were not elsewhere to be found. Leland says of it, in the time of Henry the Seventh, that its site was in a fertile valley on the south side of the Dee; but that the river having since changed its course, then ran through the middle of the ground on which it stood. The extent of its walls, he affirms, was equal to that of the walls round a town; and the two gates, the names of which had been handed down by tradition, had been half a mile asunder. Within the memory of persons then living, the bones of the monks, and pieces of their clothes, had been ploughed up, in the cultivation of the ground.

Aberdovey

Dolgelley

Harlech

London

225

Towyn

The town of Barmouth is seated near the bottom of some high mountains, many of the houses being built on the steep sides; and viewed from the sea, it resembles a fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over the sands. The town stands near to the sea, at the mouth of the Maw or Mawddach, and takes its name of Barmouth, i.e. Abermaw or Mawddach, from that circumstance. At high water, the tide here forms a bay above a mile over, but the entrance is rather hazardous, on account of the sand-banks. This is the only port of Merionethshire, but its commerce is not very extensive. The chief manufactures are flannels and woollen stockings; and of these Mr. Pennant observed sixty years ago, that £40,000 worth of the former have been exported in a year, and £10,000 worth of stockings.

The parish church is distant about a mile and a half from the town, but in 1830 a chapel of ease was opened here for Divine service, which is principally performed in English. Anational school has recently been erected at the outskirts of the town, on the Harlech road, from an excellent design by Mr. Jones, of Chester. There are also chapels in the town occupied by the Wesleyans, the Calvinists, and Independents.

The town is generally well filled with fashionable bathers in the summer season, for whose convenience, accommodation, and amusement, the inhabitants have made ample provision. There are two excellent inns: the Cors-y-gedol Arms, where post chaises and cars, as well as guides to Coder Idris, and the lakes and waterfalls, may be obtained; and also the Commercial Inn, with stabling and coach-houses. During the summer months, stage-coaches leave and arrive every day in the week, except Sunday, from different places, including Liverpool, Shrewsbury, and Caernarvon. There is a mail every day to and from the latter place, passing through Harlech, Tan-y-bwlch, Tremadoc, and Beddgelert. A four-horse mail-coach between Chester and Barmouth has lately commenced running daily. There are several good shops; and for the accommodation of visitors, circulating libraries have been established. Here, also, are two baths, a billiard-room, and a bowling-green. The lodging houses are excellent. The town, and the turnpike-roads throughout the district, have lately been greatly improved, and are still improving. The population is about 2000.

“The beach,” says Mr. Bingley, “is one of the most delightful walks I ever beheld. The wide river Mawddach winds among the mountains, forming many and elegant promontories. These rise to great heights on each side, some clad with wood, and others exhibiting their naked rocks, scantily covered with purple heath. The summit of the lofty Cader Idris is seen to rise above the other mountains, in the back ground.” From Barmouth a delightful excursion may be made along the banks of the Maw, or in a boat up the river, for about eight miles. The beach also affords a beautiful drive of six miles. From this place a projecting causeway, called Sarn-Badric, runs 15 miles into the sea, which tradition says, though her evidence alone is but slight authority, once surrounded one hundred cities. The upper part is perceptible at low water.

In the neighbourhood of Barmouth are several gentlemen’s mansions and other pretty residences, of which Bryntirion, the property of Charles Henry Harford, Esq., was the most beautiful: it was destroyed by fire about the latter end of 1840, and has not yet been rebuilt.

The Rev. Mr. Newell, in his Scenery of Wales, observes that while at Cors-y-gedol Arms, at Barmouth, he was introduced to a Welsh harper, whose performance he did not seem much to admire. Mr. Newell then adds, “It is a curious circumstance that we owe Gray’s Bard to a Welsh harper—blind Parry, Sir W. W. Wynn’s harper. In a letter from Cambridge, Gray says:—‘Mr. Parry has been here, and scratched out such ravishing blind harmony, such tones of a thousand years old, with names enough to choke you, as have set all this learned body a dancing, and inspired them with due respect for my old bard, his countryman, whenever he shall appear. Mr. Parry, you must know, has set my ode in motion again, and has brought it at last to a conclusion.’”

The angling stations are, Arthog Chapel, three miles distant, and Llyn Bodlyn, four miles from Barmouth; Llyn Irddin and Llyn Geirw, near to the town; and Llyn Raithlyn, in the neighbourhood of Traws-fynydd.

Amlwch

Bangor, by the bridge

6½

Caernarvon

Conway

14½

Holyhead

London, by Chester

258

— by Shrewsbury

243

Mona

Snowdon

Beaumaris, a most respectable and well-built town, in Anglesea, is a corporate borough, where the assizes for that county are held. The town and liberties are included in the parishes of Llandegvan and Llanvaes: the whole occupying a district nearly semi-circular in form, and presenting to the Menai a bold rocky cliff of three miles, and an indented beach of more than two. This place, like many others on the Welsh coast, has lately become a most fashionable resort for bathing visitors, for which it is admirably adapted, the sands being firm and the water clear. In 1805, hot baths were erected here, and accommodations of the first class abound.

The church, formerly called “the Chauntry of our Lady of Beaumaris,” is considered as a chapel of ease to Llandegvan. It is situated on an eminence in the centre of the town, and consists of a nave, isles, and chancel, covered with lead, and embrasured; having a ring of six bells, a clock, and an organ, all the gift of the late Lord Bulkeley. In the chancel is abeautiful monument of a knight and his lady, in white alabaster, recumbent on an altar-tomb. Mr. Llwyd says, they represent Sir Richard Bulkeley and his lady; the former was appointed Chamberlain of North Wales, and was in great favour with Queen Elizabeth. In the church, a white marble monument, executed by Westmacott, in memory of the late Lord Bulkeley, who died June 3, 1822, stands on the left side of the altar: this beautiful piece of sculpture represents Faith directing the view of the dejected widow towards the bust of her husband and to heaven. Also a beautiful monument of a female kneeling in an attitude of devotion, on a pedestal, by Ternouth, to the memory of Charlotte Mary, first wife of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart., and daughter of Lord Dinorben. There is likewise a tablet to the memory of David Hughes, erected in 1812, by some persons who had been educated in the Free School of which he was the founder. There are also several other monuments and tablets, but not possessing any peculiar attraction. On a plain stone near the east entrance into the church is the following quaint inscription to the memory of Meredith Davies:—

Who has been our parish clerkFull one and thirty years, I say,Must here, alas! lie in the darkBemoaned for ever and for aye.

Near to the church is the Free School, founded in 1603, by David Hughes, Esq., who also endowed alms-houses for six poor persons, to whom he granted annuities; the late Lord Bulkeley added four to this number; they are situated about a mile from the town, near the entrance of Baron Hill Park. Near the castle are the shire hall, and other suitable offices, where the assizes are held. The town-hall is a good building, comprising the assembly-room and a suite of civic apartments. A custom-house and a national school are also included among the public institutions of Beaumaris.

The Williams Bulkeley Arms Hotel is a magnificent establishment, and most admirably conducted. The Commercial and Liverpool Arms Inns are also houses where good accommodation may be had. The market-days are Wednesday and Saturday. Population, 2299.

Beaumaris enjoys a most beautiful and sublime prospect, with the distinguishing peculiarity, that the eye at the same time rests on a noble expanse of the ocean, and an extensiverange of some of the loftiest mountains in Wales. A grander or more interesting scene it is impossible to imagine. From the spacious piece of ground called the Green, which, landward, is enclosed by the hotel, a splendid range of houses called Victoria Terrace, and the old Castle, this enchanting view is seen to the best advantage; seaward, at full tide, it presents to the eye an infinite variety, in numbers of trading vessels, yachts, and smaller pleasure boats, constantly passing close to the beach, whilst at low water the sands afford many delightful and extensive drives.

“Ever charming, ever new,When will the landscape tire the view?”

Beaumaris castle was the last of the three great fortresses erected by Edward the First, to hold in awe his new and unwilling subjects on both sides the Menai. For this purpose he fixed upon a flat near the water side, with the view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double purpose of defence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes under its walls; part of which canal, called the Llyn-y-Green, was till lately remaining; and the large iron ring, to which the vessels were fastened, is still in its place at the great east gate.

Within the present ruins of the castle is an area or square, of 190 feet, with obtuse corners; on the right is the chapel, an admirable piece of masonry, and the only entire room in all Edward’s buildings; its stone arched roof having saved it at the general dilapidation. Opposite to the south-east entrance is the great hall, 70 feet long and 23 broad, with a range of five elegant windows, and forming a front (its turreted angles excepted) that has rather a modern appearance; and though, upon the whole, a fortress of prodigious magnitude, yet its low situation, and the great diameter of its Moorish towers, cause its ample proportions to appear of less height and extent than is really the case. This castle is reputed to be the scene of the massacre of the bards by Edward the First, who does not appear to have felt secure in his newly-acquired dominions so long as this influential order remained to raise the song and string the lyre to deeds of patriotic resistance. The same system of persecution seems to have been acted upon after the death of the bardicide; for in the reign of Henry the Fourth, Rhŷs Gôch, speaking of Gruffydd Llwyd, says—

“The best of bards is interdicted.”

Within the area of this ancient castle, in the month of August, 1832, was held a splendid Congress of Bards, or Eisteddfod, under the munificent patronage of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley. It was attended by most of the nobility and gentry of the neighbouring counties; and the meeting derived peculiar importance from the presence of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent, and her illustrious daughter, then Princess Victoria, now the Queen of these realms. During several months of that summer, the royal party had honoured the Principality with their residence, fixing their domicile for the time at Plâs Newydd, the elegant seat of the Marquis of Anglesea. A grand regatta in the bay followed the literary and musical contests in the castle; and the evenings were agreeably enlivened with splendid concerts, balls, and other festivities.

On an eminence behind the town stands this charming residence of the late Lord Bulkeley. At his death, it descended to his nephew, Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart. M.P., by whom it is now occupied. It has recently been rebuilt and modernised, and is delightfully situated on the declivity of a richly-wooded hill, commanding a fine prospect of all the northern mountains of Caernarvonshire, of the bay of Beaumaris, and a vast expanse of sea. This place has been in possession of the Bulkeley family from the date of the second charter of the corporation of Beaumaris, procured in the reign of Elizabeth. The house was originally built in the reign of James I., for the reception of Henry, the eldest son of that monarch, when on his way to Ireland. But his untimely death so much affected Sir Richard Bulkeley, the owner, that he gave up his original and magnificent plan, and used the part only that was then completed for his family seat. The old house was greatly enlarged and improved by its late noble possessor. The extensive grounds are finely wooded, and laid out with great taste and judgment. The gardens have been extended and beautified, and the liberal owner generously allows them to be thrown open for the accommodation of the public. Sir R. Bulkeley is deservedly esteemed for his efforts to improve the agriculture of his native county, by the introduction of modern and scientific culture.

At a short distance east of the house, in a sylvan recess, is the stone coffin of the Princess Joan, consort of Llywelyn abIorwerth, Prince of Wales in 1105. It had originally been deposited in the subjacent monastery of Llanvaes, and, on the dissolution of that religions establishment, was placed to receive a watering brook, like that of Richard III. at Leicester, after the fatal battle of Bosworth field. In 1812 it was discovered, in its ignoble uses, by Mr. R. Llwyd, author of Beaumaris Bay, after being lost for 290 years, when it was removed to its present situation by the late Lord Bulkeley.

A few hundred yards distant from Baron Hill is Henllys Lodge, the residence of Captain Lewis Hampton, containing a valuable collection of curiosities, which any respectable person is at liberty to inspect. Contiguous to it is The Fryars, the residence of the late Lady Williams, relict of the late Sir R. Williams, Bart., of Nant, Caernarvonshire, and mother of Sir R. W. Bulkeley, Bart.

Six miles from Beaumaris is the village ofPentraeth, delightfully situated in the vicinity of Red Wharf. Near it are the mansions of Plâs-gwyn, the seat of Lord Vivian, who married Miss Panton, the heiress and grand daughter of the late Jones Panton, Esq., and thus became possessed of this fine property, which he has greatly unproved; Rhiwlas, the seat of the Rev. Gethin Williams; and Red Hill, the seat of — Sparrow, Esq. The neighbourhood is worthy of a visit, being the direct road to Amlwch.

The church at Pentraeth was thought worthy of an engraving by Mr. Grose, the antiquary. The Panton Arms is a good country house of entertainment. Not far from Pentraeth, and near the sea-side, is Tre’r Castell, formerly the residence of Marchudd, founder of one of the royal tribes of Wales. It is now an ancient castellated mansion. It was also the residence of Sir Tudor ap Goronwy, who did homage to Edward the second, when Prince of Wales, at Chester. On this domain is supposed to have been fought, in 818, the “sore battle of Llanfaes,” between Egbert, King of the Welsh Saxons, and Merfyn Frych, King of Wales. From this place Queen Elisabeth received annually a large supply of metheglin or mead, a favourite Welsh beverage. Close by is Castell Aber Lleiniog, where are the vestiges of an ancient fort, founded by Hugh Lupus and the Earl Hugh of Shrewsbury, when they took possession of Anglesea. The neighbourhood, in fact, is rich in scenic beauty and historical associations.

Which stretches itself before and on each side of the town forms a well-sheltered harbour, and in stormy weather affords security to vessels of considerable burthen. The depth of the water near the town is six or seven fathoms even when the tide is out; but this deep channel scarcely extends more than a quarter of a mile in width. All the rest of the bay, for several miles, is left dry at low water, and has the name of Lavan Sands. Among the intelligent natives an opinion is prevalent that these sands once formed a habitable hundred of Caernarvonshire, and were first overflowed during the sixth century.

The sea of the Menai occasionally produces very singular fish. That called the Beaumaris Shark sometimes appears; a curious species of mussel; and creatures of forms that astonish the fishermen;—

“Strange things come up, to look at them,The monsters of the deep.”

This may perhaps account for the marvellous legend, preserved in “The Triads of the Isle of Britain,” concerning “the Palug Cat of the Menai.” A remarkable whale was captured in this Bay in the spring of 1846, and sent to Liverpool for exhibition. The whole shore throughout the district is said to be “a mine of fish.”

About a mile from Beaumaris, near the seat of the widow of late Sir Robert Williams, Bart., and not far from the shore, are yet to be seen, in the walls of a barn, the poor remains of the house of Franciscan friars, founded in the thirteenth century by Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of Wales, still called by the above name. At the dissolution, the establishment maintained eight friars, of whom two only were allowed to be Welshmen, when the convent and its possessions were sold: they are at present the property of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley.

Two miles north of Llanvaes Friary, stands this ancient and decayed ruin, consisting at present of little more than the ruinous refectory and part of the church. This was a priory of Benedictine monks, dedicated to St. Mary, founded in the sixth century, and re-endowed in the thirteenth by Llywelyn ab Iorwerth.At its suppression by Henry the Eighth, the revenues were valued at £48 per annum.

A small island, divided by the narrow channel called the Sound from the eastern extremity of Anglesea: its British name, Ynys Seriol, is derived from the residence of St. Seriol upon it in the sixth century: the compound name of Priest-holm originated in its being the occasional retreat of the religious of the neighbouring priory of Penmon. It is also called Puffin Island, from its being annually resorted to by these birds for the purpose of breeding.

This island will afford a day of sport to the disciple of Colonel Hawker—or of information to the industrious antiquary—or amusement to a pic-nic party; and indeed, to all visitors in search of health, pleasure, or the picturesque, who may be sojourning at Beaumaris. It is nearly a mile from the shore, to the edge of which it slopes in verdant turf on each side from its lofty central eminence. In shape it resembles a lemon, extending a mile in length and half a mile in breadth. Near the centre are the ruins of an old square tower, supposed to have been a portion of a religious house, once subordinate to the priory of Penmon; which, from “the odour of sanctity” thrown around it by popular tradition, attracted many devotees, and penitents, and dying persons, to its sacred shrine, either as the subjects of pilgrimage or prayer, or to obtain interment within its holy walls. Giraldus says, “the island was inhabited by hermits, living by manual labour and serving God.” The superior reputation which this monastery enjoyed, induced the Welsh princes, Llywelyn and David, and (after the conquest of the country) Edward the First, to grant to it the revenues of Penmon. Prince Owen Gwynedd, who lies buried here, was the founder; and its sanctuary became the refuge at once of the oppressor and the oppressed, in that lawless age to which it belonged. Little remains to attest the presence of the crowds of devout men that thronged it, or of the noble, the wealthy, or of the poor, that once were interred in its consecrated cemetery. A colony of rabbits has usurped their territory; and swarms of cormorants, stormy petrels, curlews, andpuffin auks, and, even though but comparatively seldom seen, peregrine falcons hasten to these shores in the summer months, to breed and nurture their young. There is a small house on the islandfor the man who attends a signal staff erected here in 1826, to form part of the telegraphic communication between Liverpool and Holyhead.

A pleasant aquatic excursion may he made from Garth Point to Puffin Island, passing through the picturesque bay of Beaumaris, the distance being nine miles.

A melancholy interest attaches to this neighbourhood from a most calamitous event which occurred in the bay of Beaumaris, on the night of the 17th August, 1831. On the morning of that day, theRothsay Castlesteamer left the pier-head, Liverpool, for Beaumaris, the number of passengers and seamen being between 120 and 140 souls. After passing the floating light, stationed about 15 miles from Liverpool, the sea became very rough and the wind adverse; and some of the passengers, apprehensive of danger, in vain urged the captain, Lieutenant Atkinson, to return. Between the Great and Little Ormeshead the vessel was beating about for three hours, and soon after passing the latter, night had come on, the sea running high, and the tide ebbing. It was near twelve o’clock when she arrived at the mouth of the Menai Strait, about five miles from Beaumaris. When opposite the tower on Puffin Island, suddenly the steam got so low that the engine would not keep the vessel on her proper course; and she struck on what is called the spit of the Dutchman’s Bank, where she remained immovable till she went to pieces. At least one hundred persons are known to have perished, and twenty-one were ascertained to be saved.

A strict investigation into the causes of this dreadful calamity was subsequently instituted, from which it appeared that the vessel itself was unfit for the station; that there were no guns on board to make signals of distress; that the captain and mate were in a state of intoxication during the time of peril; that there had been great mismanagement and obstinacy on the part of the former, and criminal negligence in omitting to furnish the vessel with necessary apparatus for such an emergency. The most praiseworthy activity is ascribed to the gentry and other inhabitants of Beaumaris, as well as the boatmen belonging to the bay, in rescuing the surviving sufferers, and providing places of decent sepulture for the dead. On this subject, the following testimony, from the pen of Lieutenant Morrison, of the Royal Navy, who has published a Narrative of the unfortunate wreck, is truly valuable:—“The meritorious efforts made by Sir Richard Bulkeley, Bart. and other gentlemen ofthe neighbourhood, to insure respect to the remains of the unfortunate sufferers, I believe to have been attended with perfect success. Indeed, I saw numerous valuable and portable articles which had been saved, and lodged in the hands of the authorities of Beaumaris, and which might have been very readily abstracted by the finders, to whom they offered great temptation. I was never among the inhabitant of North Wales before, and I must observe that the very excellent conduct of the lower orders on this occasion forms a strong contrast to that I have witnessed on the coasts of Devonshire and the south of Ireland.”

The many accidents in this bay at length induced the corporation of the Trinity House to erect a lighthouse on the south-westerly point of the island, at a part called Trwyn-du, or Black Point, which was finished in the course of the summer of 1838. It is a splendid work of art in the bell form; and contains more courses of masonry under low-water mark than the celebrated Eddystone lighthouse. The light is thrown out to sea by means of a strong reflector erected on the opposite or Anglesea coast. It is worthy of attention, and visitors will find it a pleasant sail from Bangor and Beaumaris.

From April to October, first-class steam-packets regularly arrive from Liverpool every afternoon (except Sunday) about five o’clock at the Bangor Ferry inn (which has lately been much improved and enlarged), and return the next morning between eight and nine o’clock, calling each way at Garth Point and Beaumaris. And we may here add that this is the cheapest and most interesting marine excursion which can be enjoyed from Liverpool.

Aber-glaslyn

1½

Caernarvon

Llanberis

Snowdon Summit

Tan-y-Bwlch

Tre-Madoc

Beddgelert, a village most charmingly situated in a beautiful tract of meadows, at the junction of three vales, near the conflux of the Gwynnant and the Colwyn.

The church is erected on the site of an ancient priory of Augustine monks, with which a convent for nuns was also incorporated. Part of the arches and clustered columns which supported the nave of the priory are still visible in the wall ofthe church, and there are other remains which prove the original religious establishment to have been of considerable extent. In 1194 it was endowed with lands by Llywelyn the Great; and it is recorded that in those days the prior had fifty cows and twenty-two sheep. In 1283 it suffered from fire, and Edward I. repaired the damages. In 1535 Henry VIII. bestowed it on the abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey; and in 1577 it was made appurtenant to that of Bisham, Berks.

Moel Hebog (the Hawk Hill) rises boldly from the vale in front of the village, which takes its name—Beddgelert, or the Grave of Gelert, from an affecting tradition, which has been made the subject of an admirably pathetic ballad by the Hon. W. R. Spencer. Miss Costello gives this romantic legend with her wonted taste and effect:—

“King John had given to Llywelyn the Great, not only his daughter Joanna in marriage, but as a prize little inferior, a fine greyhound, of superior breed and great beauty, who was wont to take the lead in all his expeditions, and to bring down the game in gallant style. The usual season of the chase arrived, and the prince, his wife, and children had repaired to the hunting-ground in this valley: one day Llywelyn set forth, and had not gone far when he discovered that Gelert, his favourite hound, had lagged behind; he called him in vain, and, out of temper and impatient, he continued his way, and occupied himself in his sport, still, however, dwelling with vexation on the absence of his constant companion. On his return, as he was about to enter his dwelling, he was met by Gelert, who leaped upon him and shewed every demonstration of delight. The prince angrily drove him off, and, as he did so, remarked that the jaws of the dog were covered with blood, that blood was on the floor and on the walls—a strange foreboding of evil stole over his mind: his infant son had been left in the cradle—no attendant was near—he tracked the crimson stairs—they led him to the spot where his child reposed—the cradle was overturned, the infant gone, and a pool of blood was at his feet.“Llywelyn allowed himself not a moment’s time for reflection—Gelert was fawning beside the couch of his murdered child—his fangs were red with gore—he could not doubt but that the wretched animal had torn the sleeping babe, and drawing his sword, he plunged it into the body of the hound. At this instant he heard a cry—he darted forward, removed the confused heap before him, and, struggling beneath, he beheld hischild uninjured, his tiny hands resting on the body of a gaunt wolf, which had been killed by Gelert in his defence.“What was now left for Llywelyn but remorse and late repentance?—he erected a tomb over the remains of the faithful dog, and the spot is called ‘the Grave of Gelert’ to this day.“There is a Welsh adage which alludes to this legend, ‘he repents as much as the man who killed the dog’—and this would naturally lead one to imagine that the sad tale were indeed true; nevertheless, the same is told in many places, and seems originally to have come from the far East, where almost all beautiful stories had their birth.“It is said to be engraven on a rock in Limerick; it is told in an old English romance; it is repeated in France; and it is the subject of Persian drama!”

“Llywelyn allowed himself not a moment’s time for reflection—Gelert was fawning beside the couch of his murdered child—his fangs were red with gore—he could not doubt but that the wretched animal had torn the sleeping babe, and drawing his sword, he plunged it into the body of the hound. At this instant he heard a cry—he darted forward, removed the confused heap before him, and, struggling beneath, he beheld hischild uninjured, his tiny hands resting on the body of a gaunt wolf, which had been killed by Gelert in his defence.

“What was now left for Llywelyn but remorse and late repentance?—he erected a tomb over the remains of the faithful dog, and the spot is called ‘the Grave of Gelert’ to this day.

“There is a Welsh adage which alludes to this legend, ‘he repents as much as the man who killed the dog’—and this would naturally lead one to imagine that the sad tale were indeed true; nevertheless, the same is told in many places, and seems originally to have come from the far East, where almost all beautiful stories had their birth.

“It is said to be engraven on a rock in Limerick; it is told in an old English romance; it is repeated in France; and it is the subject of Persian drama!”

Some chroniclers assert, that Prince Llywelyn founded the church of Beddgelert to commemorate the preservation of his son, and as some atonement for slaying his preserver, the faithful hound.

In a field contiguous to the churchyard, is a large stone, which is said to mark the spot where Gelert was buried. Near the stone is a building, now used as a cow-house, which is reputed to have been the residence of the prince.

There is an excellent inn here, the Goat, recently enlarged and improved, not inferior in accommodation to any in Wales. The Caernarvon and Tan-y-Bwlch mail coach passes twice a day through the village. Behind the old public house opposite is an interesting view of a solemn dell. The eye, in surveying this chasm, is relieved now and then by spots of verdure, patches of heath, thinly-scattered sheep, and the beautiful curvature of the mountain. In the Welsh annals this region is styled the Forest of Snowdon. A guide to the many objects of interest in the locality may be procured at any time at the Goat inn. When Mr. Nicholson traversed this part of the country, the name of the guide was William Lloyd, who was also the village schoolmaster, and who thus explained his occupation in a placard stuck upon the door of the inn:—“William Lloyd, conductor to Snowdon, Moel Hebog, Dinas Emrys, Llanberis pass, the lakes, waterfalls, &c. &c.” The name of the present guide is Richard Edwards.

On the road towards Aber-glaslyn, a stone is pointed out by the name of the Chair of Rhŷs Gôch o’r ’Ryri, the famousmountain bard, contemporary with Owen Glyndwr. He was of the house of Havod-garegog, at the entrance into the Traeth Mawr sands, whence he used to walk, and sitting on this craggy seat, composed his poems. Among others is a satire on a fox, for killing his favourite peacock. He died about the year 1490, and was interred in the holy ground at Beddgelert, escaping the vengeance of the English, for inspiring his countrymen with the love of liberty, and animating them by his compositions into a long and gallant resistance to the galling yoke.

The neighbourhood of Beddgelert abounds with objects worthy of the tourist’s attention; and of several of these we will now add a few particulars.

Turning to the right hand on crossing the bridge leading from the inn, you follow up the course of a stream that waters one of the most beautiful valleys in Wales. On the left, about half a mile up the valley, is a lofty wood-clad rock, called Dinas Emrys, the fort of Ambrosius, or Merlin Emrys, a magician who was sent for to this place from Caer Merddin (Carmarthenshire) by Vortigern, who was king of Britain from 449 to 466. It was to this place that Vortigern retired, when he found himself despised by his subjects, and unable to contend longer with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had introduced into his kingdom. It is probable that this insular rock afforded him a temporary residence, till be removed to his final retreat in Nant Gwrtheryn, or Vortigern’s Valley, not far from Nevyn, in the promontory of Lleyn. Speed says that Vortigern married his own child by Rowena, daughter of Hengist, the Saxon prince, and had by her one son.—On passing round the foot of another beautiful isolated rock,

(The Pool of the Fort), a lake about a half to three-quarters of a mile in extent, is spread before you. It is entirely surrounded by lofty mountains, the tints of which being of a deeper and browner shade than the generality of Welsh hills, gives a peculiar richness to the confined valley. The road runs close along the shore, overhung by one of the magnificent buttresses of Snowdon: to the right the eye stretches across the lake to the hills which rise from the water’s edge, above which a second tier of mountains appears, the great chain which separates youfrom the vale of Ffestiniog. The river which feeds the lake winds through the verdant and undulating grounds which spread themselves, a miniature park, between the cottage and the lake. A romantic pass, affording space for the river and road only, leads to a valley totally different from, though not less beautiful than that of Llyn Dinas: the valley forms a bowl among the hills, the bottom is a small grassy plain, here and there dotted with trees, through which the river winds; the sides are magnificent mountains: it is beauty sleeping in the lap of terror.—On the left, the eye is led to

among the deepest recesses of Snowdonia. The immediate boundary of the valley is succeeded by heights rising successively above each other. Immediately above this deep and gloomy gorge towers the monarch of hills, sublime and terrific in his precipitous height, yet presenting in its conical summit, its cairn and landmark, a graceful object, filling up the mountainous gap, the sides of which form a suitable frame to this noble picture. You follow up the course of the stream, through the same enchanting scenery, the road gradually ascending, till you catch through the plantations on the left a view of

stretched below at your feet. This lake and valley are deeply set among the loftiest mountains of Wales or England, and form one of the loveliest pictures in this country. Two or three gentlemen’s residences render this valley cheerful, without destroying its character of seclusion.

Shortly after leaving the lake, the most striking view of Snowdon presents itself; you look across the valley on a huge precipice, over the edge of which, through a wide sweeping dip in the hill, a very picturesque waterfall, Rhaiadr cum Dyli, is projected. Plain indications of its source,

a highly elevated mountain lake, are apparent; above this rises a dark perpendicular wall of rock, towards the summit of which craggy and sharp ridges run up, and at the junction the towering peak of Snowdon rises: shortly after, you join the road from Capel Curig to Llanberis. Let no inconvenience induce the tourist to relinquish this route.

In the vale of Colwyn, and nearly two miles from Beddgelert, is a small pool, about the size of a good horse-pond, called

(Or the Pool of the Sod), first celebrated by Giraldus Cambrensis, in the account of his journey through Wales in the twelfth century, as containing a floating island. This is still in existence, but not more than eight or nine yards in length, and evidently appears to be a detached piece of the turbery of which the bank is composed. There is a small willow-tree growing upon it, and it is carried to and fro by the action of the wind and water. Sometimes it remains near the side of the pool for a considerable while, and it is so large and firm as to bear cattle on it. When it has been dislodged by the wind, a few sheep have often been borne by it to the other parts of the bank.—Within two miles of Beddgelert is situated

(Or the Bridge of the Conflux of the Blue Pool); it is also called by the inhabitants the Devil’s Bridge; on which account it has sometimes been confounded with the bridge of that name near Havod, in Cardiganshire. In approaching this spot from Beddgelert, the rocks on each side become incomparably grand. The road winds along a narrow stony vale, where the huge cliffs so nearly approach as only just to leave width sufficient at the bottom for the road, and the bed of the impetuous torrent that rolls along the side of it. Here these lofty rocks, which oppose nothing to the eye but a series of the rudest precipices, “raised tier on tier, high piled from earth to heaven,” seem to forbid all further access, and to frown defiance on the traveller.

The bridge crosses the Glaslyn, and unites the counties of Merioneth and Caernarvon. In the span it is thirty feet, and from the water to the parapet forty feet high. There is excellent fishing in this river; it abounds with salmon and trout. Some years ago, there was a noted salmon leap a few yards above the bridge, and in the course of an hour, twenty or thirty fish have been seen attempting to spring over the barrier, but it is now broken down and fallen into decay. The salmon come up the river in the latter end of the year, sometimes as early as the beginning of October, in order to deposit their spawn on the sandy shallows, and are here very plentiful. Thefishery belongs to the Wynn family. When the tourist has passed the bridge, and proceeded about one hundred yards on the Tre-Madoc road, he will then see the view to perfection. The elegant and venerable arch clothed with ivy—the foam of the little waterfall almost beneath—the majestic rocks to the right, combining to form one of the finest pictures in Wales.

It was probably from this place that Giraldus Cambrensis asserted of Merionethshire, that “it was the roughest and most dreary part of Wales, for its mountains were both high and perpendicular, and in many places so grouped together, that shepherds talking or quarreling on their tops, could scarcely, in a whole day’s journey, come together.”

There is very good fishing in this neighbourhood, at a lake called Llyn-y-Dinas, about two miles from Beddgelert; the fish are good for the table, of the weight of about half a pound; however, trouts of five or six pounds weight have been taken. There are two boats kept by Robert Roberts; the flat-bottomed one is considered the better and safer for angling. Another lake appears, somewhat smaller, called Llyn Gwynnant, which has been injured by being netted, but still affords fair sport for the angler.

Capel Curig

Cerniogau Mawr

9½

Llanrwst

Bettws-y-Coed (or Station in the Wood), a small village, pleasantly situated on the Shrewsbury and Holyhead road, not far distant from the junction of the Llugwy and the Conway. The church stands in a little cemetery in the centre of the vale, enclosed by a few stately forest trees, and forms a venerable and interesting object. It contains an old monument in memory of Griffith, the son of David Gôch, who was a natural son of David, brother to Llywelyn, the last prince of Wales. He died in the fourteenth century, and is here represented by a large armed recumbent figure in a recess in the north wall. On one side of the figure, there is yet left this inscription,—“Hic jacet Gruffydd ap Davyd Gôch:Agnus Dei,misere mei.” Within a mile distant is a bridge, consisting of a single arch of iron, of 105 feet in the span, and called the Waterloo Bridge from the circumstance of its having been erected in the same year in which the battle of Waterloo was fought. It carries the Holyhead road over the Conway.

Near Bettws-y-Coed is also Pont-y-Pair, a most singular bridge, flung over the Llugwy, consisting of four arches, placed on the rude rocks, which form most durable piers. These rocks are precipitous, and in high floods exhibit to the passenger most awful cataracts below the bridge. The scenery beyond, composed of rocky mountains fringed with woods, is very striking. The river Conway affords good salmon and trout fishing. The remarkably picturesque character of this district is particularly attractive to artists who delight to make sketches from scenes of natural beauty and grandeur.

Dolgelley

Dinas Mowddwy

Machynlleth

Towyn

These distances are computed from the summit of Cader Idris.

The mountain of Cader Idris, in height the second in Wales, rises upon the sea-shore, close upon the northern side of the estuary of the small river Disynwy, about a mile from Towyn. It proceeds with almost a constant ascent, first northward for about three miles, then for ten miles further runsE. N. E., giving out from its summit a branch nearly three miles long in a south-westerly direction, parallel to the main ridge. It is very steep and craggy on every side, but the southern descent, especially to the border of Tal-y-llyn lake, is the most precipitous, being nearly perpendicular. Its breadth bears but a small proportion to its length, a line passing along its base, and intersecting the summit, would scarcely equal four miles and a half; and in the other parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever exceeds one mile in breadth.

Cader Idris is the beginning of a chain of primitive mountains, extending in aN. N. E.direction, and including the Arrans and Arrenigs. It is much loftier and more craggy than the slate and secondary mountains which surround it. Dolgelley is the place from which the ascent to this mountain is usually made.

Several tourists of literary eminence have made the ascent of Cader Idris, and have left on record graphic and animated descriptions of the sublime views which its summit discloses. Mr. Roscoe says—“The following morning promising a fine day, I determined upon making an excursion over Cader Idris. This mountain is one of the most lofty in Wales, and forms a part ofthe great chain of hills which runs nearly parallel with the coast for many miles, in connection with the Arrans and the Arrenigs, and more inland, towards Corwen, with the Berwyn range. Proceeding over the hill which leads to Towyn, I reached a small lake, and turning to the left, commenced the ascent. After great labour for three or four hours, and consequent fatigue, I reached the summit; and the pool Llyn-y-Cae shewed itself, situated among high rocks, whose weather-beaten cliffs overhang the water; but thick mists, wafted from the sea, prevented an extended view. Mr. Aikin has enriched his narrative with a description of this grand and picturesque scene he witnessed, the following extract from which leaves nothing to be desired:—‘We were now above all the eminences within a vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks which we before looked up to with astonishment, were now far below our feet, and many a small lake appeared in the valleys between them. To the north, Snowdon and its dependencies shut up the scene; on the west, we saw the whole curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance by the Caernarvon mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers against the rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded by Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, peeping through the opening of the Brecon mountains; and on the east, the eye glanced over the lake of Bala, the two Arrenig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long chain of Berwyn mountains, to the Breiddin hills on the confines of Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising alone from the plain of Salop.’

“At the foot of the mountain is the little village of Tal-y-Llyn, which borrows its name from the church at the head of the lake, not unmeetly denominated by the people ‘the Charming Retreat.’ The church, a simple antique building, is dedicated to St. Mary. The parish extends about eight miles, embracing in its circuit a large portion of the mountainous chain. The whole vicinity, wood, and hill, and lake—stirred by the winds, or clothed with the yellow hues of autumn—wore a highly picturesque yet dreary aspect; and I took great delight in exploring a number of bold, romantic streams and falls, all within the limits of this interesting district. Tal-y-Llyn (the Head of the Lake), with its little church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands at the west end of the pool, in a long valleylying below the lofty ranges of Cader Idris. Looking north-east, the vale is contracted by the mountain bases, with their sides broken into a thousand crags, some sharp and conical, and others overhanging, as if ready to fall upon the heedless traveller, who wends his way beneath their shadows. Pen-y-Delyn (or the Harp Rock) is there, bearing a resemblance in its figure to that instrument, with its indented and perforated summit, ready to receive the first breath of the morning, and to herald the rising beam of the great luminary with the fabled music of Memnon; and Llam-y-Ladron too, (or the Thieves’ Leap), the Tarpeian Rock from whose fearful top, it is said, the ancient Britons used to cast their felon brethren.”

Of the heights of Cader Idris, of Arran Vowddwy, and of the Arrenig Vawr, says Mr. Pennant, I am enabled to give a very exact account, by the assistance of the ingenious Mr. M. Hughes, of Bala, who assures me that the Pen-y-Gader is 2858 feet above the level of Dolgelley-green; Arran-Vowddwy, 740 above Llyntegid; and the Arrenig, only 20 yards short of Arran; that the fall from the lake to Dolgelley-green, is 180 yards; so that the real difference of height between the Cader and the Arran is only thirty yards. Two graves, where human bodies were deposited, have lately been discovered at the foot of Cader Idris, under two immense carnedds.

Within the last few years, for the accommodation of visitors, a cottage has been erected on the summit of the mountain, by Richard Pugh, who resides at Dolgelley, and who acts in the capacity of a guide. This has proved of great advantage to visitors, who were not unfrequently assailed by the teeming shower, without an opportunity of shelter; and who had no spot for temporary refreshment while waiting for the dispersion of misty clouds in order to enjoy the exquisite prospect. Here parties or individuals may have all convenient refreshments. The road up the mountain on the Dolgelley side has lately been much improved, so as to enable ladies and gentlemen to ride up to the very top with the greatest ease and safety, which cannot be done on the other side of the mountain without great danger. The charge of the guide for conducting a party to the summit is five shillings, and the same sum is paid for each of the ponies employed in the ascent.

For angling stations, see Dolgelley and Tal-y-Llyn.

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